PRINCETON,  N. 


Division.. 


Section 


Number, 


Frontispiece,  Vol.  II. 


AINOS  OF  YEZO. 


p.  76. 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN 


AN  ACCOUNT  OF 


TRAVELS  ON  HORSEBACK  IN  THE  INTERIOR 


INCLUDING 


VISITS  TO  THE  ABORIGINES  OF  YEZO  AND  THE  SHRINES 
OF  NIKKO  AND  ISE 


By  ISABELLA  L.  BIRD 


AUTHOR  OF  ‘A  LADT’S  LIFE  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS’  ‘SIX 
MONTHS  IN  THE  SANDAVICH  ISLANDS  ’ 

ETC.  ETC. 


IN  TWO  VOLUMES.  — VOL.  II. 


WITH  MAP  AND  ILLUSTRATIONS 


NEW  YORK 

G.  P.  PUTNAM’S  SONS 

27  AND  29  West  23D  Street 


CONTENTS  OF  VOL.  II. 


YEZO. 

Physical  Characteristics  — The  Colonisation  Department  — 
The  New  Capital  — The  Fisheries  — Hakodate  — A Vigi- 
lant Police  — The  “ Dairy  Ain  os  ” — Yezo  Fascinations  . 


tup:  mission  work. 

Form  and  Colour  — A Windy  Capital  — Eccentricities  in 
House  Roofs  — Social  Dulness  — Mission  Agencies  — A 
Disorderly  Service  — Daily  Preaching  — A Buddhist  Tem- 
ple — A Buddhist  Sermon 


HAKODATE. 

Ito’s  Delinquency  — “Missionaiy  Iklanners  ” — A Predicted 
Failure  — A Japanese  Doctor  — The  Hakodate  Hospital 
— The  Prison  — Prison  Amenities  — Chrysanthemum  Cul- 
ture — The  Bon  Festival  — A Holiday-making  Crowd 


A CHANGE  OF  SCENERY. 

A Lovely  Sunset  — An  Official  Letter  — A “Front  Horse 
— Japanese  Courtesy  — Sedentary  Amusements  — The 
Steam  Ferry  — Coolies  Abscond  — A Team  of  Savages  — 
A Drive  of  Horses  — Floral  Beauties  — An  Unbeaten 
Track  — A Ghostly  Dwelling  — Solitude  and  Eeriness 


PACK 

1-10 


11-19 


20-28 


27-45 


V 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


A MEETING. 

The  Harmonies  of  Nature  — A Good  Horse  — A Single  Dis- 
cord — A Forest  — Aino  Ferrymen  — “ Lcs  Puces  I Les 
' Puces  I” — Baflled  Explorers — Ito’s  Contempt  for  Ainos 
— An  Aino  Introduction 

LIVING  WITH  THE  AINOS. 

Savage  Life  — A Forest  Track — Cleanly  Villages  — A Hos- 
pitable Reception  — The  Chiefs  Mother  — The  Evening 
Meal  — A Savage  Seance  — Libations  to  the  Gods  — Noc- 
turnal Siience  — Aino  Courtesy  — The  Chiefs  Wife  . . 50-Cl 

AINO  HOSPITALITY. 

A Supposed  Act  of  Worship  — Parental  Tenderness  — Morn- 
ing Visits — Wretched  Cultivation  — Honesty  and  Gener- 
osity — A “ Dug-out  ” — Female  Occupations  — The 
Ancient  Fate  — A New  Arrival — A Perilous  Prescrip- 
tion — The  Shrine  of  Yoshitsunc  — The  Chief’s  Return  . 62-73 


SAVAGE  LIFE. 

Ba.»renness  of  Savage  Life  — Irreclaimable  Savages  — The 
Aino  Physique  — Female  Comeliness  — Torture  and  Or- 
nament— Child  Life — Docility  and  Obedience  . . 74-82 


COSTUME  AND  CUSTOMS. 

Aino  Clothing  — Holiday  Dress  — Domestic  Architecture  — 
Household  Gods  — Japanese  Curios  — The  Necessaries  of 
Life  — Clay  Soup  — Arrow  Poison  — Arrow  Traps  — Fe- 
male Occupations  — Bark  Cloth  — The  Art  of  Weaving  . 83 -95 


RELIGION  OF  AINOS. 

A Simple  Nature  Worship  — Aino  Gods  — A Festival  Song 
— Religious  Intoxication  — Bear  Worship  — The  Annual 
Saturnalia  — The  Future  State  — Marriage  and  Divorce  — 

Musical  Instruments  — Etiquette  — The  Chieftainship  — 

Death  and  Burial  — Old  Age  — Moral  Qualities  . . 96-110 


CONTENTS. 


A TIPSY  SCENE. 

A Parting  Gift  — A Delicacy  — Generosity  — A Seaside  Vil- 
lage — Pipichari’s  Advice  — A Drunken  Bevel  — Ito’s 
Prophecies  — The  Kocho’s  Illness  — Patent  Medicines 


VISIT  TO  A VOLCANO. 

A Welcome  Gift  — Becent  Changes  — Volcanic  Phenomena 
— Interesting  Tufa  Cones  — An  Aggressive  Trailer  — 
Semi-strangulation  — A Fall  into  a Bear-trap  — The 
Shiraoi  Ainos  — Horsebreaking  and  Cruelty 


A WET  TRIP. 

The  Universal  Language  — The  Yezo  Corrals  — A “Ty- 
phoon Rain”  — Difficult  Tracks  — An  Unenviable  Ride 
— Drying  Clothes  — A Woman’s  Remorse  . . 


A SURPRISE. 

“ More  than  Peace  ” — Geographical  Difficulties  — Usu-taki 
— A Garden  Region  — Swimming  the  Osham  — A Dream 
of  Beauty — A Sunset  Effect — A Nocturnal  Alarm  — 
The  Coast  Ainos 


SOLITUDE. 

The  Sea-shore  — A “Hairy  Aino”  — A Horse  Fight  — The 
Horses  of  Yezo  — “ Bad  Mountains  ” — A Slight  Accident 
— Magnificent  Scenery  — A Bleached  Halting-Place  — A 
Musty  Room  — Aino  “ Good-breeding  ” . . . . 


THE  MISSING  LINK. 

A Group  of  Fathers  — The  Lebung^  Ainos  — The  Salisburia 
adiantifolia  — A Family  Group  — The  Missing  Link  — 
Oshamambd  — A Horse  Fight  — The  River  Yurapu  — The 
Seaside  — Sagacity  of  Crows  — Outwitting  a Dog  — Aino 
Canoes  — The  Volcano  of  Komono-taki  — The  last  Morn- 
ing — Dodging  Europeans 


vii 


111-114 


115-124 


125-128 


129-137 


138-144 


145-156 


Itinerary  of  Tour  in  Yezo 


157 


CONTENTS. 


riii 


JAPANESE  PROGRESS. 

A Dubious  Climate  — Missionary  Ardour  — A Political  Move 
— An  Opinion  on  the  Government  — “ Squeezes  ” — Lack 
of  Perseverance  — A Japanese  Ironclad  — Realities  of 
Progress 158-163 


COMPLIMENTS. 

Pleasant  Last  Impressions  — The  Japanese  Junk  — Ito  Dis- 
appears — My  Letter  of  Thanks  — OflScial  Letters  — A 
Servant’s  Epistle  — Japanese  Epistolary  Style  . . . 164-168 

A CYCLONE. 

Pleasant  Prospects  — A Miserable  Disappointment  — Caught 
in  a Typhoon  — A Dense  Fog  — Alarmist  Rumours  — A 
Welcome  at  Tokiyo  — The  Last  of  the  Mutineers  . . 169-170 

NOTES  ON  t6kIy6. 

A Metamorphosis  — “ Magnificent  Distances  ” — Climate  — 

The  Castle  — The  Oflicial  Quarter  — The  “Feudal  Man- 
sions of  Yedo” — Commercial  Activity — The  Canals  — 

Streets  and  Shop  Signs  — Street  Names  . . . .171-187 


MODERN  INSTITUTIONS. 

The  Cemeteries  — Cremation  — Sharp  Criticism  — Stereo- 
typed Ideas  — Modern  Constructive  Art  — The  College  of 
Engineering  — Principal  Dyer  — The  Telegraph  Depart- 
ment — The  Foreign  Residents  — Forms  of  Flattei7  — The 
Flower  Festa  — A Memory  of  Fuji  — Costly  Entertain- 
ments— The  Brain  of  New  Japan 188-205 


A JAPANESE  CONCERT. 

A “ Dirty  Sky  ” — “ Rags  ” — Mr.  Mori  — A Ministerial 
Entertainment  — The  “ Shiba  Pavilion” — An  Amateur 
Orchestra  — The  Japanese  Wagner  — An  Aristocratic 
Belle  — A Juvenile  Danseuse  — An  Agonising  Mystery  — 

The  “ Dead  Alarch  ” in  Saul—  Japanese  Music — Musical 
Instruments  — Lady  Parkes 206-216 


CONTENTS. 


IX 


A MISSIONARY  CENTRE. 

TLe  Hiroshima  Maru  — A Picturesque  Fishing  Fleet  — A 
Kind  Reception  — A Mission  Centre  — A Model  Settle- 
ment— The  Native  Town— Foreign  Trade  — The  Girls’ 
Home  — Bible  Classes  — The  First  Christian  Newspaper 

— Defects  in  Mission  Schools  — Manners  and  Etiquette 

— “ Missionary  Manners  ” — The  Truth  Foreshadowed  — 

Separation  in  Foreign  Society  — A Vow  . . . . 


THE  KIYOTO  COLLEGE. 

Mountain-girdled  Kiyoto  — Third-class  Travelling  — The 
Home  of  Art  — The  Kiyoto  College  — Captain  Jayne  — 
Mr.  Davis  — The  Curriculum  — Philosophical  Ardour  — 
Discussions  and  DifiBculties  — Total  Abstinence  — The 
First  Christian  Pastor  — Japanese  Impressions  of  Scotland 
— Increased  Demand  for  the  Christian  Scriptures 

THE  MONTO  SECT. 

The  Protestants  of  Buddhism  — The  “English-Speaking” 
Priest  — The  Nishi-Honguwanji  Temple  — A Monto  Al- 
tar — Nirvana  — Hid^yoshi’s  Summer  Palace  — Metemp- 
sychosis — Buddha  as  a Democrat  — The  Prospects  of 
Christianity  — The  Priest’s  Estimate  of  Belief  in  England 
— The  Conflict  of  Opinion  in  Japan — A Question  . 


ARTISTIC  TASTES. 

Kiyoto  Shopping  — Artistic  Patterns  — Solitude  in  Decora- 
tion— A Japanese  Eta^jere  — Honest  Work  — Vitiation 
of  Japanese  Art  — Kiyoto  Brocades  — The  Board  of  In- 
dustries — The  New  Hospital  . . . . 

UJI. 

Hugging  a Hitachi  — A Japanese  “Institution” — Indus- 
trious Poverty  — Uji  Tea-houses  — Tea-making  — Our 
First  Evening  — Nara  — A Treasury  of  Antiquities  — A 
Row  of  Petitioners  — Inappropriate  Travelling  Gear  — 
A Shrine  of  Pilgrimage  — An  Ancient  Monastery  — A 
Trudge  through  Mud  — Higenashi  — Mushroom  Culture 
— Roughing  it  — The  High  Road  — A Rubbing  Stone 


217-22S 


229-2-11 


242-253 


25I.-259 


260-277 


X 


CONTENTS. 


THK  TSE  SHRINES. 

“ The  Divine  Palaces  of  the  most  holy  gods  of  — Sanc- 
tity of  the  Is^  Shrines  — The  Kami-dana  — The  Isd 
Charms  — The  Geku  Camphor  Groves  — The  Temple 
Grounds  — The  Sacred  Enclosure  — The  Shrines  — The 
“Holy  of  Holies”  — The  Japanese  Regalia  — The  Shinto 
Mirror 


ANOTHER  PILGRIMAGE. 

A Dreary  Shrine  — The  Legend  of  Futami-sama  — A Double 
Temple  — A Street  of  Shops  — The  Naiku  Shrine — Even- 
ing Shadows  — The  Melancholy  of  Shinto — Unsanctified 
Pilgrim  Resorts 


LAKE  BIWA. 

My  Kuruma-TUTmer  — Stupid  Curiosity  — The  City  of  Tsu  — 
A Buddhist  Temple  — Road  Mending — The  Pass  of 
Tsuzaka  — The  Tokaido  — Lake  Biwa  — The  “Temper- 
ance Pledge  ” — A Matsuri 

Itinerary  of  Route  from  Kiy6to  to  Yamaha  (Shrines 
OF  Isfi),  AND  BY  TsU  TO  KiYOTO  .... 


PROSPECTS  OF  CHRISTIANITY. 

Water-Ways  in  Osaka — Glimpses  of  Domestic  Life  — La- 
dies’ Pets  — The  Position  of  Women  — Imperial  Example 

— The  Medical  Mission — A Japanese  Benevolent  Insti- 
tution— A Comfortless  Arrival  — A Christian  Gathering 

— The  Prison  at  Otsu  — Prospects  of  Christianity  — 

Blankness  of  Heathenism 


CREMATION. 

Fine  Weather  — Cremation  in  Japan  — The  Governor  of 
Tokiyo  — An  Awkward  Question  — An  Insignificant 
Building  — Economy  in  Funeral  Expenses  — Simplicity 
of  the  Cremation  Process  — The  Last  of  Japan  . 


278-285 

286-289 

290-300 

301 

302-314 

315-319 


CONTENTS. 


xi 


JAPANESE  PUBLIC  AFFAIRS. 

The  Old  Regime  — The  End  of  Feudalism  — The  Oath  of 
Progress  — The  New  Government  — The  Army,  Navy, 
and  Police  — The  Post-Office  — Railroads  and  Telegraphs 
— The  Mercantile  Marine — The  Mint  — The  Currency  — 
The  Newspaper  Press  — The  Penal  Code  — The  Educa- 
tional System  — Finance  and  Taxation  — The  National 
Debt  — Foreign  Trade  — Conclusion 


APPENDIX. 

A.  — Aino  AVobds  taken  down  at  Bikatori  and  Usu, 

Y EZO 

B.  — Notes  on  Shinto 

C.  — Tables  of  the  Estimated  Revenue  and  Expendi- 

ture FOR  THE  Financial  Year  1879-80 

D.  --  Foreign  Trade 


320-357 


359-362 

363-378 

373-379 

380-383 


Index 


385-392 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Ainos  of  Yezo  . . . . . . . Frontispiece 

PAGE 

Aixo  Store-House  at  Horobets 37 

Arxo  Lodges.  From  a Japanese  Sketch  ....  38 

Aino  Houses 50 

Ainos  at  Home.  From  a Japanese  Sketch  ....  51 

Aino  Millet-Mill  and  Pestle 55 

SlIINONDI  AND  SniNRICHI 58 

Aino  Store-House GO 

An  Aino  Patriarch 77 

Tattooed  Female  Hand 79 

Aino  Gods 87 

Plan  of  an  Aino  House 90 

Weaver’s  Shuttle 93 

Entrance  to  Shrine  of  Seventh  Shogun,  Shiba, 

Tokiyo 183 

A Hiogo  Buddha 221 

The  Rokkukado 231 

My  Kuruma-Runner  . . . ' 26C 

Temple  Gateway  at  Isshtnden 293 

A Lake  Biwa  Tea-House 295 

Tomoye 297 

Fujisan,  from  a Village  on  the  Tokaido  . . . 316 

xiii 


I 


YEZO. 


Physical  Characteristics  — The  Colonisation  Department  — The  New 
Capital  — The  Fisheries  — Hakodate  — A Vigilant  Police  — The 
“ Hairy  Ainos  ’’  — Yezo  Fascinations. 

Separated  from  the  main  island  of  Japan  by  the 
Tsugaru  Strait,  and  from  Saghalien  by  the  narrow  strait 
of  La  Perouse,  in  shape  an  irregular  triangle,  extending 
from  long.  139°  50'  E.  to  long.  146°  E.,  and  from  lat. 
41°  30'  N.  to  lat.  45°  30'  N.,  its  most  northern  point  con- 
siderably south  of  the  Land’s  End,  Yezo  has  a climate 
of  singular  severity,  a heavy  snowfall,  and,  in  its  north- 
ern parts,  a Siberian  winter.  Its  area  is  35,739  square 
miles,  or  considerably  larger  than  that  of  Ireland,  while 
its  estimated  population  is  only  123,000.  The  island  is 
a mountain  mass,  with  plains  well  grassed  and  watered. 
Impenetrable  jungles  and  impassable  swamps  cover 
much  of  its  area.  It  has  several  active  volcanoes,  and 
the  quietude  of  some  of  its  apparently  extinct  ones  is 
not  to  be  relied  upon.  Its  forests  and  swamps  are, 
drained  by  innumerable  short,  rapid  rivers,  which  are 
subject  to  violent  freshets.  In  riding  round  the  coast 
they  are  encountered  every  two  or  three  miles,  and  often 
detain  the  traveller  for  days  on  their  margins.  The 
largest  is  the  Ishkari,  famous  for  salmon. 

The  coast  has  few  safe  harbours,  and  though  exempt 
from  typhoons,  is  swept  by  heavy  gales  and  a continuous 
surf.  The  cultivated  land  is  mainly  in  the  neighbour- 

1 


o 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


hood  of  the  sea,  with  the  exception  of  the  extensive 
plain  around  Satsuporo.  The  interior  is  forest-covered, 
and  the  supplies  of  valuable  lumber  are  nearly  inex- 
haustible, and  include  thu’ty-six  kinds  of  useful  timbei 
trees.  Openings  in  the  forest  are  heavily  grassed  with 
the  Eulalia  Japonica.,  a grass  higher  than  the  head  of  a 
man  on  horseback;  and  the  forest  itself  is  rendered 
impassable,  not  only  by  a dense  growth  of  the  tough 
and  rigid  dwarf  bamboo,  which  attains  a height  of 
eight  feet,  but  by  ropes  and  nooses  of  various  vines, 
lianas  in  truth,  wliich  grow  profusely  everywhere.  The 
soil  is  usually  rich,  and  the  summer  being  warm  is 
favourable  to  the  growth  of  most  cereals  and  root  crops. 
The  climate  is  not  well  suited  to  rice,  but  wheat  ripens 
everywhere.  Most  of  the  crops  which  grow  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  main  island  flourish  in  Yezo,  and 
English  fruit-trees  succeed  better  than  in  any  part  of 
Japan.  I never  saw  finer  crops  anywhere  than  in 
Mombets  on  Volcano  Bay.  Cleared  land,  from  the 
richness  of  the  soil  formed  by  vegetable  decomposition, 
is  fitted  to  produce  crops  .as  in  America,  for  twenty 
years  without  manuring,  and  a regular  and  sufficient 
rainfall,  as  in  England,  obviates  the  necessity  for  irriga- 
tion. 

The  chief  mineral  wealth  of  Yezo  is  in  its  coalfields, 
but  the  Government  is  jealous  of  the  introduction  of 
foreign  capital,  and  till  the  embargo  is  removed,  it  is 
unlikel}^  that  this  source  of  wealth  will  be  utilised  on  a 
large  scale,  and  much  of  the  money  appropriated  for 
the  developement  of  mines  is  frittered  away  by  official 
“squeezes”  en  route.  But  this  coal  may  eventually 
turn  out  of  great  importance  to  the  world.  ]\Ir.  Lyman, 
the  able  head  of  the  Geological  Surve}",  estimates  the 
quantity  of  coal  in  the  Yezo  coalfields  at  one  hundred 
and  fifty  thousand  million  tons;  in  other  words,  that 


THE  DEVELOPMENT  department:'  3 

Yezo  could  yield  the  present  annual  product  of  Great 
Britain  for  a thousand  years  to  come  ! ! ! 

The  official  name  of  Yezo  is  the  Hokkaido  or  North- 
ern Sea  Circuit,  and  owing  to  various  circumstances, 
actual  and  imaginary,  it  is  under  a separate  department 
of  the  Government  called  the  Colonisation  Dej)artment, 
known  as  the  Kaitakuslii,  or,  as  we  should  say,  the  “ De- 
velopment Department.”  This  de23artment  has  spent 
enormous  sums  upon  Yezo,  some  of  which  have  been 
sunk  in  unprofitable  and  costly  experiments,  while 
others  bear  fruit  in  ]3roductive  imj^rovements.  The  ap- 
propriation of  this  year  is  over  £302,000.  The  island 
differs  so  much  in  its  general  features  and  natural  j^rod- 
ucts  from  the  rest  of  Japan,  that  it  is  exempt  from  the 
ordinary  taxes,  and  is  subject  to  special  imposts  on 
produce,  which  bring  in  a revenue  of  about  £72,000 
annually,  a large  sum  to  be  paid  by  a small  population. 

Satsuporo,  on  the  Ishkari  River,  is  the  creation  of 
this  Department.  The  chief  and  most  hopeful  of  its 
operations  there  is  an  Agricultural  College  on  the 
model  of  the  Massachusetts  Agricultural  College,  under 
native  direction,  but  with  a staff  of  four  able  American 
professors.  Its  graduation  course  is  four  years,  and  the 
number  of  students  is  limited  to  sixty.  It  gives  a sound 
English  education,  with  special  attention  to  surveying 
and  civil  engineering,  as  required  for  the  construction 
of  ordinary  roads,  railroads,  drainage  and  irrigation 
works,  and  such  thorough  instruction  in  agriculture  and 
horticulture  as  is  required  by  the  necessities  of  farming 
in  Yezo.  There  are  model  farms  both  at  Satsuporo  and 
Nanai,  near  Plakodatd,  and  nursery  gardens  for  exotic 
trees,  vegetables,  and  flowers.  The  department  is  in- 
troducing sheep  and  pigs,  and  by  importing  blood  stock 
is  endeavouring  to  improve  the  breed  of  ’ horses  and 
cattle.  At  Satsuporo  it  has  extensive  sawmills,  a silk 


4 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


factory,  a tannery,  and  a brewery,  and  large  flour  mills 
both  there  and  at  Nanai. 

It  would  be  uninteresting  to  give  a list  of  all  which 
the  Kaitakushi  has  attempted  for  the  development  of 
Yezo.  Many  of  its  schemes  have  proved  utterly  abor- 
tive, and  some  which  still  exist  are  not  carried  out 
with  the  completeness  and  perseverance  necessary  for 
success.  Its  funds  are  undoubtedly  eaten  up  by  su- 
perfluous officials,  who  draw  salaries  and  perpetrate 
“ squeezes,”  and  do  little  besides  smoke  and  talk. 
Roads  are  much  needed.  The  broad  road  from  Hako- 
date to  Satsuporo,  on  which  much  money  is  always 
being  expended,  is  in  a permanently  wretched  state, 
and  is  mainly  available  for  long  strings  of  pack-horses, 
whose  deep  cross  ruts  had  not  disappeared  even  in  Sep- 
tember; and  the  steam-ferry  of  twenty-five  miles  on 
this  main  road  is  carried  on  by  a steamer  whose  extreme 
speed  is  five  miles  an  hour,  and  whose  boilers,  to  use 
the  expressive  native  phrase,  are  constantly  “ sick.” 
The  theories  of  “ development  ” are  very  good ; mis- 
takes have  been  and  are  being  made ; some  valuable 
practical  measures  are  neglected  in  favour  of  Utopian 
experiments,  and  some  good  results  are  being  attained. 

The  Government  is  supposed  to  have  two  objects  in 
view  in  developing  Yezo.  One  is  to  provide  a field  for 
emigration  for  the  inhabitants  of  those  parts  of  Japan 
which  are  supposed  to  be  over-populated,  and  the  other, 
by  building  up  a population  in  Yezo,  to  erect  a sort  of 
bulwark  against  aggressive  designs  which  are  supposed 
to  be  entertained  by  Russia,  a power  which  is  as  much 
distrusted  in  Japan  as  in  England.  Colonies  have  been 
settled  in  several  favourable  regions;  grants  of  land 
have  been  made  to  a great  many  samurai,,  and  at  Satsu- 
poro nearly  1000  soldiers  are  settled  with  their  families 
in  detached  houses,  each  with  several  acres  of  land; 


SALMON  FISUERIES. 


5 


seeds  and  fruit-trees  are  sold  to  settlers  at  a very  low 
price,  and  many  agricultural  advantages  are  provided 
which  do  not  exist  on  the  main  island ; but  still,  either 
from  a natural  disinclination  to  emigrate,  or  from  a 
dread  of  the  taxes  imposed  on  produce,  the  Hokkaido 
fails  to  attract  a population,  and  a region  which  could 
support  six  millions  has  a scattered  sprinkling,  and  that 
mainly  round  the  coasts,  of  only  123,000  souls. 

The  fisheries  of  Yezo  are  magnificent,  and  rival  those 
of  the  opposite  coast  of  Oregon ; but  they  are  overtaxed, 
the  tax  levied  being  from  10  to  25  per  cent  on  the  yield. 
Salmon  is  the  specialty,  but  cuttle-fish,  seaweed,  and 
heche  de  mer  are  also  important  articles  of  export.  There 
are  many  fishing  stations  on  the  southern  coast,  but  the 
most  important  are  at  Ishkari  in  the  north,  near  Satsu- 
poro,  the  new  capital.  The  salmon-fishing  there  is  one 
of  the  sights  of  Japan.  Some  of  the  seines  are  4000 
feet  in  length,  and  require  seventy  men  to  work  them. 
A pair  of  such,  making  three  hauls  a day,  sometimes 
catch  20,000  salmon,  averaging,  when  cured,  10  lbs.  each. 
The  revenue  from  the  fisheries  of  the  Ishkari  river  alone 
is  f 50,000  annually.  Yezo  fish  is  not  only  sent  through- 
out the  interior  of  Japan,  but  is  shipped  to  China.  The 
Ainos,  the  aborigines  of  the  island,  are  largely  employed 
in  the  fishing,  and  an  immense  number  of  emigrants 
from  the  provinces  of  Nambu  and  Ugo  resort  to  Yezo 
for  the  fishing  season. 

Hakodate,  the  northern  Treaty  Port,  a flourishing  city 
of  37,000  people,  is  naturally  the  capital,  with  its  deep 
and  magnificent  harbour  well  sheltered  in  all  winds. 
Situated  on  a gravelly  hill-slope,  with  a sunny  exposure 
and  splendid  natural  drainage,  it  is  fitted  to  recruit  en- 
ergies which  have  been  exhausted  by  the  damp  heat  of 
Yokohama  and  T6kiy6.  Though  it  has  occasionally  nine 
Inches  of  snow  on  the  ground  in  November,  the  snow- 


6 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


fall  is  not  excessive,  as  it  is  in  the  north  of  the  island ; 
it  does  not  lie  permanently  on  the  ground,  and  there  are 
many  sunny  winter  days,  so  many,  indeed,  that  the 
slush  is  worse  than  the  snow.  It  has  a mean  annual 
temperature  of  about  10°  below  that  of  Yedo,  but  the 
range  in  the  direction  of  cold  is  much  greater.  The 
minimum  is  2°,  and  the  maximum  88°.  The  nights,  even 
in  hot  weather,  are  nearly  always  cool.  In  a period  of 
nine  years  the  annual  rainfall  has  averaged  51.9  inches, 
and  the  average  number  of  rain  days  is  about  98. 

Hakodate  is  annually  falling  away  as  a foreign  port. 
In  fact,  its  foreign  trade  is  reduced  to  nothing.  It  has 
only  two  foreign  firms,  and  its  foreign  residents,  exclu- 
sive of  Chinese,  only  number  37.  If  it  were  not  for 
the  number  of  ships  of  war  which  visit  ifc  every  sum- 
mer, and  for  the  arrival  of  a few  visitors  in  impaired 
health,  it  would  be  nearly  as  dull  as  Niigata.  But  as  a 
Japanese  port  it  is  an  increasingly  thriving  place.  It  is 
unprofitable  for  foreign  vessels  to  come  so  far  to  this 
one  point,  now  that  Japanese  steamers,  which  can  trade 
at  all  ports,  are  so  numerous.  Foreign  merchandise  is 
now  imported  by  Japanese  merchants  in  Japanese  ships, 
and  the  chief  articles  of  export  — dried  fish,  seaweed, 
and  skins  — are  sent  direct  to  China  and  the  main 
island  in  native  vessels.  Fine  passenger  steamers  of  the 
3Iitsu  Bishi  Company  run  between  Hakodat(^  and  Yoko- 
hama every  ten  days,  and  to  Niigata  once  a month, 
besides  cargo  boats,  and  junks  and  native  vessels  of 
foreign  rig  arrive  and  depart  in  numbers  with  every 
fair  wind. 

The  Government  buildings  are  extensive,  and  the 
hospital  and  prisons  are  under  admirable  native  manage- 
ment. Remote  as  Hakodate  is,  it  does  not  seem  to  me 
to  be  behind  any  city  of  its  size  in  enterprise,  general 
comfort,  cleanliness,  and  good  order.  The  Kaitakushi 


A VIGILANT  POLICE. 


1 


has  seventeen  schools  in  the  city,  in  which  the  pupils 
are  taught  reading,  writing,  and  arithmetic  up  to  frac- 
tions, along  with  universal  history  and  geography ; be- 
sides which  there  are  numbers  of  private  schools,  which 
only  teach  reading  and  writing.  Some  of  the  shop- 
keepers, in  a most  enlightened  spirit,  have  established 
an  evening  school  for  apprentices  and  assistants  between 
twelve  and  eighteen,  who  are  engaged  during  the  day, 
and  the  fees  for  all  these  schools  are  moderate. 

The  Post  Office  and  Custom  House  are  efficiently 
managed  by  Japanese  officials,  in  conformity  with  for- 
eign usages ; and  though  the  Judicial  Department 
gives  little  satisfaction,  the  police  are  so  efficient  that 
H.B.M.’s  Consul  officially  reports  that  “no  thief  or 
criminal  can  escape  the  vigilance  of  the  authorities ! ” 
Japanese  ship-carpenters  are  designing  and  turning  out 
small  schooners  of  foreign  rig,  and  Japanese  merchants 
import  foreign  goods,  such  as  clothing,  provisions,  hard- 
ware, crockery,  glass,  fancy  goods,  and  alcoholic  liquors, 
to  such  an  extent  that  the  absence  of  a foreign  store  is 
scarcely  felt. 

Such  are  some  of  the  signs  of  progress  in  a city 
which,  when  Mr.  Alcock  visited  it  in  1859  to  instal  the 
British  Consul,  had  a population  of  only  6000  people, 
and  was  only  resorted  to  by  a few  whalers  ! 

It  is  the  centre  of  missionary  operations  for  the  island ; 
and  at  present  the  Greeks,  Romanists,  Church  Mission- 
ary Society,  and  American  Methodist  Episcopal  Church, 
have  agents  there,  limited,  of  course,  to  the  treaty  dis- 
tance of  twenty-five  miles,  unless  they  obtain  travelling 
passports  under  the  ordinary  regulations. 

Besides  Hakodate,  there  are  only  two  towns  of  any 
importance  — Matsumae,  a decayed  place  of  about 
16,000  people,  formerly  the  residence  of  a very  power- 
ful daimiyd;  and  Satsuporo,  the  capital,  a town  of  8000 


8 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


people,  laid  out  on  the  plan  of  an  American  city,  with 
wide,  rectangular  streets,  lined  by  low  Japanese  houses 
and  shops,  and  tasteless,  detached,  frame  houses.  The 
American  idea  is  further  suggested  by  the  Kaitakushi 
offices  with  a capitol  copied  from  the  capitol  at  Wash- 
ington. Besides  the  Government  Buildings  and  those 
which  have  been  previously  mentioned,  there  is  a hos- 
pital under  the  charge  of  an  American  doctor. 

Near  Satsuporo  are  several  agricultural  settlements, 
and  the  experiments  there  and  elsewhere  on  the  island 
prove  that  though  the  winter  is  long  and  severe,  the 
climate  and  soil  are  specially  favourable  for  winter  wheat, 
maize,  millet,  buckwheat,  potatoes,  pease,  beans,  and 
other  vegetables  and  cereals,  as  well  as  for  Japanese 
hemp,  which  commands  a high  price,  owing  to  the  length, 
fineness,  and  silkiness  of  its  fibre.  Thousands  of  acres 
of  well-watered  grass-land  lie  utterly  useless  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Satsuporo  on  the  Ishkari  river. 

Wild  animals  and  game  in  large  numbers  have  their 
home  in  the  impenetrable  forests  of  the  interior.  In 
the  Hakodate  market,  at  different  seasons  of  the  year, 
are  to  be  bought  at  moderate  prices,  grouse,  hares,  quail, 
snipe,  teal,  venison,  woodcock,  wild  duck,  and  bear  , 
and  bear-furs  and  deer-skins  are  among  the  important 
articles  of  export. 

The  chief  object  of  interest  to  the  traveller  is  the 
remnant  of  the  Aino  race,  the  aborigines  of  Yezo,  and 
not  improbably  of  the  whole  of  Japan,  peaceable  sav- 
ages, who  live  on  the  coasts  and  in  the  interior  by  fish- 
ing and  hunting,  and  stand  in  the  same  relation  to  their 
Japanese  subjugators  as  the  Red  Indians  to  the  Ameri- 
cans, the  Jakkoons  to  the  Malays,  and  the  Veddas  to 
the  Sinhalese.  In  truth,  it  must  be  added  that  they 
receive  better  treatment  from  their  masters  than  is 
accorded  to  any  of  these  subject  races.  The  Letters 


THE  ^^HAIBY  AINOS:^ 


9 


which  follow  contain  all  that  I could  learn  about  them 
from  actual  observation,  but  Mr.  Yasuda  Sadanori,  First 
Secretary  of  the  Kaitahushi  Department,  has  supplied 
a few  additional  facts  at  the  request  of  Sir  Harry 
Parkes : — 

“A  rough  census  of  the  Ainos  made  in  1873  gives 
their  numbers  at  — 

Males  . : . 6118 

Females  . . . 6163 


Total  . . 12,281 

Since  that  year  no  separate  census  has  been  made,  bid 
the  Ainos  are  believed  to  be  decreasing  in  number. 

“As  regards  taxes,  they  pay  partly  in  money  and 
partly  in  kind. 

“ The  education  law  of  the  Ministry  of  Public  In- 
struction does  not  apply  to  the  Hokkaido^  but  a similar 
system  has  been  adopted  by  the  KaitakusM  Department, 
and  is  applied  to  all  inhabitants  of  the  island  without 
distinction  of  origin,  the  object  of  the  Imperial  Govern- 
ment being  to  teach  Ainos  and  Japanese  alike. 

“ Special  arrangements  have  been  made  for  the  pur- 
pose of  enabling  the  Ainos  to  live.” 

The  “ hairy  Ainos,”  as  these  savages  have  been  called, 
are  stupid,  gentle,  good-natured,  and  submissive.  They 
are  a wholly  distinct  race  from  the  Japanese.  In  com- 
plexion they  resemble  the  peoples  of  Spain  and  South- 
ern Italy,  and  the  expression  of  the  face  and  the  man- 
ner of  showing  courtesy  are  European  rather  than 
Asiatic.  If  not  taller,  they  are  of  a much  broader  and 
heavier  make  than  the  Japanese ; the  hair  is  jet  black, 
very  soft,  and  on  the  scalp  forms  thick,  pendant  masses, 
occasionally  wav}^  but  never  showing  any  tendency  to 
curl.  The  beard,  moustache,  and  eyebrows  are  very 


10 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


thick  and  full,  and  there  is  frequently  a heavy  growth 
of  stiff  hair  on  the  chest  and  limbs.  The  neck  is  short, 
the  brow  high,  broad,  and  massive,  the  nose  broad  and 
inclined  to  flatness,  the  mouth  wide  but  well  formed, 
the  line  of  the  eyes  and  eyebrows  perfectly  straight, 
and  the  frontal  sinuses  well  marked.  Their  language 
is  a very  simple  one.  They  have  no  written  characters, 
no  literature,  no  history,  very  few  traditions,  and  have 
left  no  impression  on  the  land  from  which  they  have 
been  driven. 

In  Yezo  the  traveller  is  conscious  of  a freer  atmos- 
i^here  than  he  has  breathed  on  the  main  island,  and  it 
is  not  only  the  air  which  circulates  more  freely,  but 
men  and  beasts  have  plenty  of  elbow-room.  You  can 
get  a tolerable  horse,  and  ride  him  where  you  please, 
without  being  brought  up  by  a trespass  notice  or  a rice- 
swamp  ; you  go  off  the  roads  and  gallop  for  miles  over 
breezy  commons  by  the  sea-shore,  covered  with  red 
roses ; you  can  lead  a half-savage  life,  and  swim  rivers, 
and  climb  mountains,  and  “light  a fire  in  woods,”  with- 
out offending  against  “ regulations ; ” in  a word,  you 
can  do  all  that  you  may  not  do  on  the  main  island ; 
and  apart  from  the  interest  of  investigation  and  obser- 
vation, there  is  a charm  about  the  thinly-peopled  coun- 
try, a fascination  in  the  long  moan  of  the  Pacific  be- 
tween Tomakomai  and  Cape  Erimo,  in  the  glorious 
loneliness  of  the  region  round  Volcano  Bay,  and  in  the 
breeziness  and  freedom  of  Yezo  life,  which  makes  my 
memories  of  Yezo  in  some  respects  the  most  delightfu] 
wliich  I have  brought  away  from  Japan. 


FOBM  AND  COLOUR, 


11 


THE  MISSION  WORK. 

i 

Form  and  Colour  — A Windy  Capital  — Eccentricities  in  House  Eoofs 
— Social  Dulness  — Mission  Agencies — A Disorderly  Service  — 
Daily  Preaching  — A Buddhist  Temple  — A Buddhist  Sermon. 

Hakodate,  Yezo,  August  13,  1878. 

After  a tremendous  bluster  for  two  days  the  weather 
has  become  beautifully  fine,  and  I find  the  climate  here 
more  invigorating  than  that  of  the  main  island.  It  is 
Japan,  but  yet  there  is  a difference  somehow.  When  the 
mists  lift  they  reveal  not  mountains  smothered  in  green- 
ery, but  naked  peaks,  volcanoes  only  recently  burnt 
out,  with  the  red  ash  flaming  under  the  noonday  sun, 
and  passing  through  shades  of  pink  into  violet  at  sun- 
down. Strips  of  sand  border  the  bay,  ranges  of  hills, 
with  here  and  there  a patch  of  pine  or  scrub,  fade  into 
the  far-off  blue,  and  the  great  cloud  shadows  lie  upon 
their  scored  sides  in  mdigo  and  purple.  Blue  as  the 
Adriatic  are  the  waters  of  the  land-locked  bay,  and  the 
snowy  sails  of  pale  junks  look  whiter  than  snow  against 
its  intense  azure.  The  abruptness  of  the  double  peaks 
behind  the  town  is  softened  by  a belt  of  cryptomeria, 
the  sandy  strip  which  connects  the  headland  with  the 
mainland  heightens  the  general  resemblance  of  the 
contour  of  the  ground  to  Gibraltar,  but  while  one 
dreams  of  the  western  world  a kuruma  passes  one  at  a 
trot,  temple  drums  are  beaten  in  a manner  which  does 
not  recall  “ the  roll  of  the  British  di  um,'’  a Buddhist 
funeral  passes  down  the  street,  or  a inan-cait  pulled  and 


12  ‘ 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


pushed  by  four  yellow-skinned,  little-clothed  mannikins, 
creaks  by,  with  the  monotonous  grunt  of  Ha  huida. 

A single  look  at  Hakodate  itself  makes  one  feel  that 
it  is  Japan  all  over.  The  streets  are  very  wide  and 
clean,  but  the  houses  are  mean  and  low.  The  city 
looks  as  if  it  had  just  recovered  from  a conflagration. 
The  houses  are  nothing  but  tinder.  The  grand  tile 
roofs  of  some  other  cities  are  not  to  be  seen.  There  is 
not  an  element  of  permanence  in  the  Avide  and  windy 
streets.  It  is  an  increasing  and  busy  place ; it  lies  for 
two  miles  along  the  shore,  and  has  climbed  the  hill  till 
it  can  go  no  higher ; but  still  houses  and  people  look 
poor.  It  has  a skeleton  aspect  too,  which  is  partially 
due  to  the  number  of  permanent  “ clothes-horses  ” on 
the  roofs.  Stones,  however,  are  its  prominent  feature. 
Looking  down  upon  it  from  above  you  see  miles  of  grey 
boulders,  and  realise  that  every  roof  in  the  windy  capi- 
tal is  “hodden  doun  ” by  a weight  of  paving  stones. 
Nor  is  this  all.  Some  of  the  flatter  roofs  are  pebbled 
all  over  like  a courtyard,  and  others,  such  as  the  roof 
of  this  house,  for  instance,  are  covered  with  sod  and 
crops  of  grass,  the  two  latter  arrangements  being  pre- 
cautions against  risks  from  sparks  during  fires.  These 
paving  stones  are  certainly  the  cheapest  possible  mode 
of  keeping  the  roofs  on  the  houses  in  such  a windy 
region,  but  they  look  odd. 

None  of  the  streets,  except  one  high  up  the  hill,  witli 
a row  of  fine  temples  and  temple  grounds,  call  for  any 
notice.  Nearly  every  house  is  a shop;  most  of  the 
shops  supply  only  the  ordinary  articles  consumed  b}’’  a 
large  and  poor  population ; either  real  or  imitated  for- 
eign goods  abound  in  Main  Street,  and  the  only  novel- 
ties are  the  furs,  skins,  and  horns,  which  abound  in 
shops  devoted  to  their  sale.  I covet  the  great  bear  furs, 
and  the  deep  cream-coloured  furs  of  Aino  dogs,  which 


LIMITED  DIVERSIONS, 


13 


are  cheap  as  well  as  handsome.  There  are  many  sec- 
ond-hand, or,  as  they  are  called,  “ curio  ” shops,  and 
the  cheap  lacquer  from  Aomori  is  also  tempting  to  a 
stranger. 

The  foreigners,  all  told,  number  thirty-seven.  There 
is  little  social  intercourse,  owing  to  antagonism  in  mor- 
als and  manners,  and  when  the  last  stranger  leaves  at 
the  end  of  September,  and  the  long  winter  sets  in,  it 
must  be  dreary  enough  for  people  who  have  not  plenty 
of  work  which  is  worth  doing.  In  summer,  as  now,  it 
is  very  lively,  owing  to  the  frequent  arrivals  and  depart- 
ures of  European  ships  of  war,  and  the  visits  of  health- 
seeking strangers,  who  go  up  to  some  pretty  lakes  which 
lie  at  the  foot  of  the  flushed  volcano  of  Komono-taki, 
or  adventure  into  the  interior  as  far  as  Satsuporo,  the 
nominal  capital.  The  British  Consul,  Mr.  Eusden,  has 
been  here  for  nine  years,  and  the  cordial  and  graceful 
hospitalities  shown  by  Mrs.  Eusden  to  foreigners,  with- 
out distinction  of  nation,  often  leave  pleasanter  mem- 
ories than  the  profuse,  conventional  gaieties  of  other 
naval  resorts.  Otherwise,  to  climb  the  peak,  to  go  to 
see  Nanai,  one  of  the  experimental  farms  of  the  Kaita- 
kushi  Department,  and  to  shoot  snipe,  are  the  only 
diversions. 

The  four  bodies  of  Christians  which  have  missions 
here  have  built  church  edifices,  of  which  the  Komish  is 
the  largest,  and  the  Greek  the  most  decorated,  the  walls 
being  covered  with  pictures.  Hitherto  the  Greek  Mis- 
sion has  been  very  successful  in  making  converts,  and 
though  Father  Nicolai  is  alone,  he  has  four  or  five 
ordained  native  helpers.  Some  “ sisters  ” have  lately 
arrived  to  join  the  Romish  Mission,  and  will  probably 
give  it  a great  impetus.  The  Mission  of  the  C.  M.  S. 
is  a comparati^'ely  new  one,  and  is  represented  by  Mr. 
Dening,  at  whose  house  I am  staying,  and  Mr.  Ogawa, 


14 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


a remarkably  bright  native  evangelist  of  the  samurai 
class.  There  have  been  eight  baptisms  at  Hakodate. 
Mr.  Dening  has  out  stations  within  treaty  limits,  where 
he  preaches  once  a week,  but  Yezo  is  Buddhist,  and  in 
one  of  these  places,  Ono,  the  opposition  is  very  strong. 

We  made  an  expedition  to  it  on  pack-ponies,  which 
went  the  whole  way  at  a pace  felicitously  called  the 
“Yezo  Scramble.”  After  leaving  the  neck  of  land 
which  unites  the  headland  with  the  mainland  it  was  a 
charming  ride  in  the  bright  sunshine,  over  sandy  ground, 
covered  with  grass  and  great  red  roses,  mingled  with 
honeysuckle,  sedums,  the  bee-haunted  Stephanandra 
flexuosa^  and  the  reddening  leaves  of  anemones,  with 
glimpses  of  the  blue  of  the  bay  on  the  left,  and  of  the 
red  peaks  of  the  volcano  above  dark  green  ravines. 
From  the  sandy  village  of  Arakawa  a bridle  track, 
among  gardens,  and  hamlets,  and  very  pretty  wooded 
country,  leads  to  the  large  village  of  Ono,  where  the 
many  exotic  trees  and  flowers  which  the  Government 
has  distributed  are  very  flourishing.  On  our  way  we 
met  a number  of  men,  and  an  Aino,  with  spears  and 
muskets,  riding.,  not  sitting,  on  horses,  returning  from 
killing  a bear.  Near  Ono  there  is  a Government  fac- 
tory, where  they  are  utilising  the  strong  silk  of  the 
mountain  silk-worm,  which  feeds  on  the  tough  leaves 
of  a species  of  oak. 

At  Ono  there  is  a schoolroom  with  a boarded  floor, 
and  Ogawa,  the  catechist,  lives  there ; but  though  there 
has  been  Christian  teaching  for  a year,  there  has  been 
no  result.  The  village  was  keeping  matsuri.,  but  when 
the  doors  of  the  schoolroom  were  opened  at  eight  the 
room  filled  at  once  with  a disorderly  crowd  of  men, 
women,  and  children,  who  came  in  lilve  a tornado,  and 
instead  of  leaving  their  wooden  clogs  at  tlie  door,  as  is 
customary,  clattered  them  on  the  floor  with  a deafening 


A DISORDERLY  AUDIENCE. 


15 


din.  Three  hundred  people,  some  the  worse  for  sake^ 
clattering  clogs,  shouting,  clustering  on  the  window-sills, 
climbing  on  the  benches,  laughing,  eating,  lighting  their 
pipes  at  the  lamps,  throwing  off  their  kimonos.^  and  keep- 
ing up  a prolonged  uproar  for  an  hour  and  a quarter, 
were  the  most  unpromising  audience  I have  ever  seen. 
Mr.  Dening  has  a singular  aptitude  for  languages,  and 
has  acquired  not  only  a wonderful  command  of  the  col- 
loquial Japanese  spoken  by  the  lower  classes,  but,  what 
is  even  more,  the  tones  in  which  they  speak ; and  hav- 
ing a strong  physique.^  and  a very  powerful  voice,  he 
perse veringly  made  himself  heard  above  the  uproar, 
which  was  not,  as  I supposed,  an  exceptional  one  stimu- 
lated by  the  spectacle  of  three  foreign  ladies,  but  is  the 
regular  accompaniment  of  Christian  preaching  in  Ono. 
Mr.  Dening  gives  his  time,  strength,  and  heart  to  his 
work,  with  a vigour,  energy,  and  enthusiasm  which 
could  not  be  surpassed,  and  which  are  unchilled  by  op- 
position and  disappointment,  otherwise  an  Ono  audience 
would  have  made  an  end  of  his  efforts  long  ago,  for  the 
Buddhist  priests  stir  up  the  people  against  the  “new 
way.”  Where  Shint6  prevails,  indifference  is  the  rule. 
We  deft  the  village  at  9 p.m.,  and,  owing  to  the  fatigue 
and  fears  of  the  other  ladies,  who  were  not  accustomed 
to  ride,  and  who  were  afraid  of  deserting  the  “ scram- 
ble ” for  a gallop,  we  did  not  reach  Hakodate  till  1 
A.M.,  and  then  in  a sorry  plight,  after  a “scramble  ” of 
twenty-five  miles.  It  was  the  first  really  exquisite 
night  that  I have  seen  in  Japan ; sharp  tree  shadows  on 
dew-gemmed  grass,  broad  moonlight  on  a silver  sea, 
silver  clouds  drifting  across  mountain  summits,  and  a 
cool,  soft  air,  laden  with  the  scent  of  sleeping  flowers. 

On  Sunday  evening  a new  preaching-place  was 
opened  in  the  main  street  of  Hakodate,  a front  room 
and  doma  open  to  the  street,  with  kitchen  extending  tc 


16 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


the  back;  and  it  is  among  the  many  instances  of  the 
toleration  which  Christianity  enjoys,  that  after  this 
place  was  filled,  the  police,  who  frequently  passed, 
never  interfered  with  the  crowd  which  assembled  out- 
side. The  people  were  very  quiet,  and  tolerably  sta- 
tionary, quite  different  from  the  Ono  “pagans.”  A 
few,  who  sat  on  the  stairs  leading  to  the  upper  room, 
called  for  the  tahako-hon  and  smoked,  and  others  had 
trays  of  refreshments  carried  to  them ; but  they  do  the 
same  in  their  own  temples. 

It  appears  very  up-hill  mission  work  here.  The 
work  has  to  be  sought  and  made,  and  frequently,  when 
the  novelty  has  passed  by,  the  apparent  interest  dies 
away.  A medical  missionary  is  in  a very  different 
position.  His  work  seeks  him,  and  grows  upon  him 
daily,  with  endless  interesting  ramifications,  and  he  has, 
at  least,  the  satisfaction  of  successfully  ministering  to 
the  bodies  of  men. 

Since  the  missionaries  arrived  here,  the  Buddhists,  as 
at  Niigata,  have  established  daily  services  in  one  or 
other  of  the  large  temples  which  form  one  side  of  one 
of  the  streets,  and  I have  been  to  see  them  nearly  every 
day.  The-  large  temple  is  well  filled  every  afternoon 
with  men  and  women,  all  of  the  poorer  classes,  and  as 
quiet  and  orderl}^  as  they  can  be.  They  occupy  the 
part  railed  off  from  the  holier  .place,  in  which  the 
priests  minister.  Very  low  and  sweet,  though  heard 
all  over  the  citjq  is  the  sound  of  the  great  bronze  bell 
which  summons  the  hearers,  and  exactly  at  three  the 
priests  fold  back  the  heavily-gilded  doors  of  the  chancel 
and  light  the  candles  and  lamps  which  shed  a “dim 
religious  light  ” through  the  gorgeous  interior,  reveal- 
ing the  high  altar,  covered  with  an  altar-cloth  of  green 
brocade,  and  side  altars  hung  with  white  brocade  em- 
broidered with  gold.  On  the  low  altar  incense  ascends 


A BUDDHIST  SEBMON, 


IT 


between  vases  of  white  flowers,  and  a dreamy  sensuous- 
ness pervades  the  whole  building.  Four  priests  in 
chasubles  of  black  silk  gauze,  over  pure  white  cassocks, 
with  green  brocade  squares  of  a large  size  hanging 
behind  them  by  a shoulder-strap  of  green  silk,  kneel 
with  their  backs  to  the' people,  and  in  front  of  them 
eight  more  similarly  dressed,  except  that  the  brocade 
squares  which  hang  behind  them  are  alternately  green 
and  brown,  and  embroidered  in  silver.  Before  each  is 
a low,  lacquer  desk  for  the  service-books,  and  the 
sweet-toned  bells  which  accompany  service.  Two  more 
priests  kneel  at  the  sides  of  the  altar.  A bell  sounds, 
fourteen  shaven  heads  are  bowed  three  times  to  the 
earth,  more  lamps  are  lighted ; a bell  sounds  again,  and 
then  litanies  are  chanted  monotonously,  with  bells 
tinkling,  and  the  people  responding  at  intervals,  in  a 
tongue  to  them  unknown,  Namu  Amida  Butsu.  After 
an  hour  the  priests  glide  away  in  procession,  and  one 
of  those  who  have  hitherto  been  kneeling  at  the  altar 
mounts  a square  pulpit  just  within  the  rail  which  sepa- 
rates them  from  the  people,  sits  down,  not  in  Japan- 
ese fashion,  but  cross-legged,  after  the  manner  of  the 
founder  of  his  faith,  and  preaches  for  an  hour  with 
much  energy. 

Would  you  like  to  know  how  very  diverting  a sermon 
in  Japan  can  be  made?  The  following  is  a fragment  of 
a translation  of  one  of  considerable  length,  which  I 
have  just  come  upon  in  the  Japan  Mail  for  June  1875. 
The  sermon,  as  is  proper,  takes  a text,  which  is  to  be 
found  in  the  Chinese  Classics  — 

“ That  which  is  evil,  be  it  but  small,  do  not : 

That  which  is  good,  be  it  but  small,  fail  not  to  do.” 

The  echoes  of  a thousand  pulpits  are  in  the  opening 
sentences : “ These  words,  my  good  friends,  are  found 


18 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


in  tlie  section  called  Kagen  of  the  Shogaku^  which  is  so 
well  known  to  all  of  you.  They  are  indeed  blessed 
words,  and  well  suited  to  be  our  text  this  evening. 
These  words  are  short,  but  they  contain  an  invalua- 
ble lesson.”  Two  or  three  pages  of  thoroughly  valuable 
and  condensed  moral  teaching  follow.  Sounder  ethics 
on  this  subject  could  not  be  found,  and  the  terse  max- 
ims are  illustrated  by  anecdotes  and  comparisons  level 
to  the  capacity  of  boor  or  child.  I grieve  that  I must 
not  copy  the  whole,  as  it  would  make  this  letter  too 
long.  The  sermon  concludes  with  an  imaginary  dia- 
logue, which  I can  well  believe  would  arrest  the  atten- 
tion of  the  largest  congregation  ever  gathered  under 
one  roof  in  Japan. 

“ What  says  the  song  ? 

“ ‘ Self-restraint  our  daily  words, 

Howe’er  so  short,  should  guard 
From  morn  to  eve.’ 

“ A misfortune  may  have  its  origin  in  a word.  Take, 
as  an  example,  the  way  a husband  calls  to  his  wife. 
Should  he  summon  her  with  a pleasant  ‘Here,  good 
wife,’  she  will  reply  with  a soft  ‘ Az,  az.’  Now  take  the 
reverse  of  that. 

Husband.  “ ‘ What  are  you  pottering  at  there  ? Just 
stir  about,  will  you  ? These  short  days  too  ! ’ 

Wife.  “ ‘ I know  the  days  are  short,  and  that’s  just  ifc. 
If  any  one  comes  to  the  door  I’ve  got  to  answer,  and 
the  washing  to  look  after  besides.  I haven’t  got  five  or 
six  hands  to  do  all  that,  have  I ? ’ 

Husband.  “ ‘ Are  you  going  to  give  your  husband 
any  of  your  ill  chat  ? ’ 

Wife.  “ ‘ Well,  what  are  you  doing  hugging  that  fire 
box  all  day,  instead  of  lending  me  a hand  now  and 
then  ? ’ 


A JIATliniOJVIAL  qUABREL. 


19 


Husband.  “ ‘ What’s  that  now?  Look  here,  I’m  not 
an  ox,  I’ll  have  you  know.  You’re  not  going  to  put  a 
rope  through  my  snout,  and  lug  me  all  over  the  place. 
You  don’t  do  that  with  human  beings  ; ’ and  so  they  go 
on,  he  a fine  strapping  young  fellow,  and  she  a sweet- 
looking young  girl,  a rival  to  Benten-Sama  in  very 
beauty,  by  turns  now  red,  now  green,  with  passion. 

Husband.  “ ‘ It  would  be  but  a small  matter  though 
one  killed  a useless  hussey  like  you  outright.’ 

Wife.  “ ‘ Oh,  just  please  kill  me  now  — do  kill  me. 
You  didn’t  pick  me  off  a dunghill  though  for  all  that. 
I’ve  got  a good  stout  father  and  elder  brother  to  take 
care  of  me.  See  there,  just  you  kill  me  now ! ’ 
Husband.  “ ‘ Oh ! I’ll  soon  do  that.’ 

“ Such  a hubbub  ! 

“ They  are  not  the  great  things  of  life  which  call  for 
our  watchful  care ; they  are  the  small  affairs,  the  so- 
called  trifling  matters,  the  ‘ Yeas  ’ and  ‘ Noes,’  the  ques- 
tions and  answers  in  our  daily  home  life.  Peace  in  a 
household  is  like  the  joyous  music  in  the  dancing  cars 
of  the  gods  in  the  region  of  heaven.” 

So  ends  the  sermon,  and  I feel  that  from  Solomon’s 
day  downwards  there  is  a monotonous  resemblance 
among  men,  that  “ as  in  water  face  answereth  to  face, 
so  answereth  the  heart  of  man  to  man.”  I.  L.  B. 


20 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


HAKODATE. 


Il;o’s  Delinquency  — “Missionary  Manners” — A Predicted  Failure 
— A Japanese  Doctor  — The  Hakodate  Hospital  — The  Prison  — 
Prison  Amenities  — Chrysanthemum  Culture  — The  Bon  Festi- 
' val — A Holiday-making  Crowd. 

Hakodate,  Yezo. 

I AM  enjoying  Hakodate  so'  much  that,  though  my 
tour  is  all  planned  and  my  arrangements  are  made,  I 
linger  on  from  day  to  day.  There  has  been  an  unpleas- 
ant eclaircissement  about  Ito.  You  will  remember  that 
I engaged  him  without  a character,  and  that  he  told 
both  Lady  Parkes  and  me  that  after  I had  done  so  his 
former  master,  Mr.  Maries,  asked  him  to  go  back  to 
him,  to  which  he  had  replied  that  he  had  “a  contract 
with  a lady.”  Mr.  Maries  is  here,  and  I now  find  that 
he  had  a contract  Avith  Ito,  by  Avhich  Ito  bound  himself 
to  serve  him  as  long  as  he  required  him,  for  $7  a month, 
but  that  hearing  that  I offered  $12,  he  ran  away  from 
him  and  entered  my  service  with  a lie ! Mr.  Maries  has 
been  put  to  the  greatest  inconvenience  by  his  defection, 
and  has  been  hindered  greatly  in  completing  his  botan- 
ical collection,  for  Ito  is  very  clever,  and  he  had  not 
only  trained  him  to  dry  plants  successfully,  but  he  could 
trust  him  to  go  away  for  two  or  three  days  and  collect 
seeds.  I am  very  sorry  about  it.  He  says  that  Ito  was 
a bad  boy  when  he  came  to  him,  but  he  thinks  that  he 
cured  him  of  some  of  his  faults,  and  that  he  has  served 
me  faithfully.  I have  seen  Mr.  Maries  at  the  Consul’s, 
and  have  arranged  that  after  my  Yezo  tour  is  over  Itc 


ITO^S  DELINQUENCY. 


21 


shall  be  returned  to  his  rightful  master,  who  will  take 
him  to  China  and  Formosa  for  a year  and  a half,  and 
who,  I think,  will  look  after  his  well-being  in  every 
way.  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Hepburn,  who  are  here,  heard  a bad 
account  of  the  boy  after  I began  my  travels,  and  were 
uneasy  about  me,  but  except  for  this  original  lie,  I have 
no  fault  to  find  with  him,  and  his  Shint6  creed  has  not 
taught  him  any  better.  When  I paid  , him  his  wages 
this  morning  he  asked  me  if  I had  any  fault  to  find,  and 
I told  him  of  my  objection  to  his  manners,  which  he 
took  in  very  good  part,  and  promised  to  amend  them ; 
“ but,”  he  added,  “ mine  are  just  missionary  manners  ! ” 

Yesterday  I dined  at’  the  Consulate,  to  meet  Count 
, Diesbach,  of  the  French  Legation,  Mr.  Von  Siebold,  of 
the  Austrian  Legation,  and  Lieutenant  Kreitner,  of  the 
Austrian  army,  who  start  to-morrow  on  an  exploring 
expedition  in  the  interior,  intending  to  cross  the  sources 
of  the  rivers  which  fall  into  the  sea  on  the  southern 
coast,  and  measure  the  heights  of  some  of  the  moun- 
tains. They  are  “ well  found  ” in  food  and  claret,  but 
take  such  a number  of  pack-ponies  with  them  that  I 
predict  that  they  will  fail,  and  that  I,  who  have  reduced 
my  luggage  to  45  lbs.,  will  succeed ! 

After  dinner  the  Consul  took  me  to  the  hospital, 
where  we  were  received  by  Dr.  Fucasi,  who  is  not  only 
at  the  head  of  the  hospital  and  its  medical  and  student 
staff,  but  in  the  lack  of  a European  doctor  has  won  the 
confidence  of  the  whole  European  community.  He  is  a 
very  bright,  keen-eyed  man,  and  very  enthusiastic  in 
his  profession.  He  wears  a European  white  linen  suit, 
but  does  not  speak  English. 

The  hospital  consists  of  three  well-ventilated  Euro- 
pean buildings,  one  of  which  is  for  sailors.  It  may 
literally  be  said  that  it  has  120  “ beds,”  for  Dr.  Eldridge, 
who  organised  it,  and  left  it  in  a very  efficient  condi- 


22 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


tion,  introduced  bedsteads,  much  to  the  advantage  of 
the  patients.  Foreigners,  mainly  sailors,  pay  50  sen,,  or 
about  Is.  8d.  a day,  natives  20  sen,  and  absolutely  des- 
titute persons  are  received  gratuitously.  There  are  six 
Jax^anese  doctors  on  duty  at  this  hospital,  which  is,  be- 
sides, a school  of  medicine,  in  whicli  instruction  is  given 
l)y  daily  lectures  and  clinical  demonstrations.  It  is 
very  clean  and  cheerful,  and  the  patients  looked  quite 
as  comfortable  as  hospital  patients  in  England.  Each 
bed  has  a shelf  for  the  patient’s  use,  and  a tablet  on 
which  the  hours  for  taking  medicine  are  inscribed.  Dr. 
Fucasi  uses  the  antiseptic  treatment,  under  which  he 
considers  that  cures  are  more  rapid  and  that  pain  is 
mitigated.  There  were  a great  number  of  surgical 
cases,  and  three  men  had  actually  consented  to  part 
with  their  legs!  Dr.  Fucasi  showed  one  case  with 
great  pride,  in  which  a man  whose  leg  was  only  ampu- 
tated twenty-five  days  ago  was  ready  to  be  dismissed, 
and  was  walldng  about  on  his  crutches.  There  were 
several  kaklce  patients,  and  a number  of  severe  cases 
of  eye  disease,  arising  from  neglected  ophthalmia.  The 
number  of  out-patients  who  pay  for  medicines  only, 
averages  160  daily,  and  is  always  on  the  mcrease, 
though  there  are  four  other  hospitals  in  Yezo,  and 
every  village  of  any  size  has  its  dispensary  and  Japan- 
ese doctor.  These  evidences  (and  they  are  only  a few 
among  many)  of  enlightenment  and  progress  in  this 
remote  part  of  the  empire  are  not  only  interesting  but 
surprising,  considering  that  it  is  less  than  seven  years 
since  Iwakura  and  his  mission  went  to  Europe  and 
America  to  investigate  western  civilisation  with  the 
view  of  transplanting  its  best  results  to  Japanese  soil. 

. It  is  quite  a natural  transition  to  the  prison,  which  I 
visited  afterwards  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Eusden.  It  is  a 
pleasant  prison,  standing  in  extensive  gardens  at  some 


THE  HAKODATE  PRISON. 


23 


distance  from  the  town,  perhaps  too  pleasant ! I made 
this  remark  to  the  chief  of  police,  and  the  manager  who 
received  us,  and  the  former  replied  laughingly,  that 
some  of  the  criminals  seemed  very  fond  of  coming 
back.^  There  are  several  separate  buildings,  including 
well-ventilated  dormitories,  workrooms,  I'efectories,  and 
a cell  something  like  a bear  cage,  for  the  detention  of 
refractory  criminals.  170  prisoners  are  undergoing  sen- 
tence, 10  are  there  for  murder,  and  19  of  the  number 
are  sentenced  to  penal  servitude  for  life.  Only  4 are 
women.  The  whole  are  under  the  charge  of  17  ward- 
ers. Considerable  liberty  is  allowed.  Hard  labour 
consists  in  working  on  the  road  and  dragging  man- 
carts  ; light,  in  tilling  the  garden,  and  in  employment 
at  the  workshops. 

They  have  a tannery,  and  make  cabinet-work,  can- 
dles of  vegetable  wax,  soap,  alcohol,  and  scents,  besides 
which  they  do  engraving  and  block-printing.  A man 
is  usually  allowed  to  follow  his  own  trade,  but  if,  being 
a peasant,  he  has  not  one,  he  is  tauglit  one  in  the  prison. 
There  are  never  more  than  eight  employed  in  the  same 
room,  but  to  my  surprise  they  are  allowed  to  talk. 
There  were  only  two  that  1 should  pick  out  as  low, 
criminal  faces  among  the  number ; most  of  them  looked 
like  pleasant,  intelligent  artisans,  and  only  7 per  cent 
are  unable  to  read  and  write.  They  wear  red  kimonos^ 
but  are  free  from  any  physical  restraints,  and,  except 
the  refractory  cage,  there  is  nothing  of  the  nature  of  a 
cell.  They  are  known  by  numerals  only  to  the  warders 
and  each  other.  Photographs  are  taken  and  preserved 
of  all  who  are  sentenced  for  more  than  100  days.  They 

1 Since  I visited  the  prison  of  the  Naamhoi  Magistrate,  the  great 
]trison  of  Canton,  where  unmitigated  barbarism  and  cruelty,  the  out- 
growth of  unmitigated  rapacity,  still  regulate  the  treatment  of  crimi- 
nals, I have  felt  inclined  to  condone  wdiat  appeared  to  me,  at  the  time, 
the  exaggerated  leniency  of  the  Hakodate  system. 


24 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


receive  fair  wages  for  tlieir  work  as  piece-work,  the  cost 
of  their  keep  is  deducted,  and  the  accumulated  simplua 
is  handed  to  them  at  the  expiry  of  the  sentence,  and 
often  amounts  to  a sum  sufficient  to  set  them  up  in 
business.  Great  care  is  taken  to  conceal  the  identity 
of  the  prisoners.  Not  thinking  it  possible  that  any  ot 
them  could  hear  me,  I asked  through  the  Consul’s  in- 
terpreter, for  what  crime  a superior-looking  man  was 
there,  and  the  chief  of  police  begged  me  to  postpone 
the  question  till  we  were  out  of  hearing  of  the  man’s 
comrades.  There  is  a flower  garden  attached  to  the 
prison,  in  which-  the  convicts  take  great  delight.  At 
present  some  of  them  are  cultivating  chrysanthemums. 
Bad  eggs  or  dead  birds  are  buried  at  the  roots,  and 
each  plant  is  allowed  to  bear  but  one  blossom. 

It  seems  to  me  that  the  only  telling  features  of  pun- 
ishment in  this  prison  are  the  withdrawal  from  family 
life  and  the  withholding  of  liberty  to  move  about.  It 
is  humane  to  a fault,  and  the  prisoners  look  really 
happy.  Whether  this  mild  system  produces  reforma- 
tory results,  I cannot  ascertain. 

At  night  we  went  to  the  Bon  festival.  This  is  one 
of  the  great  festivals  of  Japan,  the  “ feast  of  lanterns.” 
It  was  introduced  from  China  in  the  eighth  century, 
and  its  original  object  undoubtedly  was  to  procure  the 
release  of  departed  spirits  from  the  Buddhist  pimgatory. 
Offerings  of  food  are  still  made  at  the  tombs,  but  the 
chief  feai.ures  of  the  festival  are  a general  holiday, 
abundance  of  sake.,  thousands  of  lanterns,  and  a gen- 
eral resemblance  to  a fair. 

We  went  out  about  nine,  and  found  the  greaccr  part 
of  the  population  of  Hakodate  assembled  cither  in  the 
great  cemetery  or  on  the  roads  leading  to  it,  which  were 
turned  into  avenues  of  coloured  lanterns,  with  pyra- 
mids, festoons,  and  arches  of  lanterns,  and  transparen 


A FESTIVAL  OF  THE  BEAD. 


25 


cies  of  all  forms  and  colours,  and  lines  of  illuminated 
booths  bright  with  toys,  sweetmeats,  and  knick-knacks. 
Thousands  of  people,  cheerful,  orderly,  and  courteous, 
thronged  the  roads  till  it  was  only  possible  to  get  on  a 
few  yards  at  a time ; children  with  gay  dresses  and  fan- 
tastically-arranged hair  were  making  purchases  at  all 
the  stalls;  drums,  bells,  gongs,  stringed  instruments, 
kept  up  din  and  discord;  the  burial-ground  was  one 
glorious  illumination  in  undulating  lines  of  light ; the 
pale  junks  on  the  silver  sea  hung  out  coloured  lanterns ; 
it  was  all  beautiful  and  wonderful.  In  a small  Buddh- 
ist temple  with  a Shint5  mirror,  a richly-dressed  priest 
knelt  in  front  of  an  illuminated  altar,  in  the  midst  of 
the  soft  light  of  countless  lanterns,  repeating  endless 
litanies  to  the  accompaniment  of  a monster  drum,  and 
a bronze  bowl  with  a bell-like  sound,  which  he  struck 
incessantly  and  alternately  with  two  sticks,  while  an 
amused  crowd  watched  him  without  reverence  from  the 
outside.  At  the  entrance  of  the  cemetery  there  were 
fifteen  wooden  posts,  each  inscribed  with  the  name  of  a 
god.  In  every  post  there  was  a wheel,  and  each  turn 
of  the  wheel  is  equivalent  to  a j)rayer  to  the  god. 
Some  people  turned  the  whole  fifteen  carelessly  as  they 
passed.  In  the  same  place  there  was  a temporary 
shrine,  which  was  the  chief  centre  of  attraction.  It 
appeared  to  be  full  of  decorated  images,  and  was  ablaze 
with  light,  and  two  great  pyramids  of  lanterns  were 
opposite  to  it.  It  and  the  flight  of  steps  leading  to  it 
were  one  swaying,  struggling,  mass  of  people,  and 
though  some  obliging  officials  made  an  attempt  to  make 
way  for  us,  we  were  forced  backwards  down  the  stairs, 
and  as  there  was  more  than  a mere  fanciful  risk  of  being 
Imrt,  we  were  obliged  reluctantly  to  give  it  up,  and 
return  home  through  the  crowded  fairy  scene,  and 
through  streets  with  lanterns  hanging  from  every  house 


26 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


1 hope  to  start  on  my  long-projected  tour  to-morrow ; 
I have  planned  it  for  myself  with  the  confidence  of  an 
experienced  traveller,  and  look  forward  to  it  with  great 
pleasure,  as  a visit  to  the  aborigines  is  sure  to  be  full  of 
novel  and  interesting  experiences.  Good-bye  for  a long 
time.  I.  L.  B. 


A LOVELY  SUNSET. 


27 


A CHANGE  OF  SCENERY. 

A.  Lovely  Sunset  — An  Official  Letter  — A “ Front  Horse  ” — Japan* 
ese  Courtesy  — Sedentary  Amusements  — The  Steam  Ferry  — Cool- 
ies Abscond  — A Team  of  Savages  — A Drive  of  Horses  — Floral 
Beauties  — An  Unbeaten  Track  — A Ghostly  Dwelling  — Solitude 
and  Eeriness. 

Ginsainoma,  Yezo,  August  17. 

I AM  once  again  in  the  wilds ! I am  sitting  outside 
an  upper  room  built  out  almost  over  a lonely  lake,  with 
wooded  points  purpling,  and  still  shadows  deepening  in 
the  sinking  sun.  A number  of  men  are  dragging  down 
the  nearest  hill-side  the  carcass  of  a bear  which  they 
have  just  despatched  with  spears.  There  is  no  village, 
and  the  busy  clatter  of  the  cicada  and  the  rustle  of  the 
forest  are  the  only  sounds  which  float  on  the  still  even- 
ing air.  The  sunset  colours  are  pink  and  green ; on 
the  tinted  water  lie  the  waxen  cups  of  great  water- 
lilies,  and  above  the  wooded  heights  the  pointed, 
craggy,  and  altogether  naked  summit  of  the  volcano 
of  Komono-taki  flushes  red  in  the  sunset.  Not  the 
least  of  the  charms  of  the  evening  is  that  I am  abso- 
lutely alone,  having  ridden  the  eighteen  miles  from 
Hakodate  without  Ito  or  an  attendant  of  any  kind; 
have  unsaddled  my  own  horse,  and  by  means  of  much 
politeness  and  a dexterous  use  of  Japanese  substantives 

1 I venture  to  present  this  journal  letter,  with  a few  omissions,  just 
as  it  was  written,  trusting  that  the  interest  which  attaches  to  aboriginal 
races  and  little-visited  regions  will  carry  my  readers  through  the  minute- 
ness and  multiplicity  of  its  details. 


28 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


have  secured  a good  room  and  supper  of  rice,  eggs,  and' 
black  beans  for  myself,  and  a mash  of  beans  for  my 
horse,  which,  as  it  belongs  to  the  Kaitakushi.,  and  has 
the  dignity  of  iron  shoes,  is  entitled  to  special  con- 
sideration ! 

I am  not  j^et  off  the  “beaten  track,”  but  my  spirits 
are  rising  with  the  fine  weather,  the  drier  atmosphere, 
and  the  freedom  of  Yezo.  Yezo  is  to  the  main  island 
of  Japan  what  Tipperary  is  to  an  Englishman,  Barra 
to  a Scotchman,  “away  down  in  Texas”  to  a New 
Yorker  — in  the  rough,  little  known  and  thinly-peopled; 
and  people  can  locate  all  sorts  of  improbable  stories 
here  without  much  fear  of  being  found  out,  of  which 
the  Afiios  and  the  misdeeds  of  the  ponies  furnish  the 
staple,  and  the  queer  doings  of  men  and  dogs,  and  ad- 
ventures with  bears,  wolves,  and  salmon,  the  embroid- 
ery. Nobody  comes  here  without  meeting  with  some- 
thing queer,  and  one  or  two  tumbles  either  with  or 
from  his  horse.  Very  little  is  known  of  the  interior 
except  that  it  is  covered  with  forest  matted  together  by 
lianas,  and  with  an  undergrowth  of  scrub  bamboo  im- 
penetrable except  to  the  axe,  varied  by  swamps  equally 
impassable,  which  gives  rise  to  hundreds  of  rivers 
well  stocked  with  fish.  The  glare  of  volcanoes  is  seen 
in  different  parts  of  the  island.  The  forests  are  the 
hunting-grounds  of  the  Ainos,  who  are  complete  sav- 
ages in  everything  but  their  disposition,  which  is  said 
to  be  so  gentle  and  harmless  that  I may  go  among  them 
^nth  perfect  safety. 

Kindly  interest  has  been  excited  by  the  first  foray 
made  by  a lady  into  the  country  of  the  aborigines ; and 
Mr.  Ensden,  the  Consul,  has  worked  upon  the  powers 
that  be  with  such  good  effect  that  the  Governor  has 
granted  me  a sTiomon^  a sort  of  official  letter  or  certifi- 
cate, giving  me  a right  to  obtain  horses  and  coolies 


A ‘‘FBONT  HORSE.’’ 


29 


everywhere  at  the  Government  rate  of  6 sen  a with 
a prior  claim  to  accommodation  at  the  houses  kept  up 
for  officials  on  their  circuits,  and  to  help  and  assistance 
from  officials  generally;  and  the  Governor  has  further 
telegraphed  to  the  other  side  of  Volcano  Bay  desiring 
the  authorities  to  give  me  the  use  of  the  Government 
kuruma  as  long  as  I need  it,  and  to  detain  the  steamer 
to  suit  my  convenience ! With  this  document,  which 
enables  me  to  dispense  with  my  passport,  I shall  find 
travelling  very  easy,  and  I am  very  grateful  to  the 
Consul  for  procuring  it  for  me. 

Here,  where  rice  and  tea  have  to  be  imported,  there 
is  a uniform  charge  at  the  yadoyas  of  30  sen  a day, 
which  includes  three  meals,  whether  you  eat  them  or 
not.  Horses  are  abundant,  but  are  small,  and  are  not 
up  to  heavy  weights.  They  are  entirely  unshod,  and 
though  their  hoofs  are  very  shallow  and  grow  into 
turned-up  points  and  other  singular  shapes,  they  go 
over  rough  ground  with  facility  at  a scrambling  run  of 
over  four  miles  an  hour,  following  a leader  called  a 
“ front  horse.”  If  you  don’t  get  a “ front  horse  ” and 
try  to  ride  in  front,  you  find  that  your  horse  will  not 
stir  till  he  has  another  before  him ; and  then  you  are 
perfectly  helpless,  as  he  follows  the  movements  of  his 
leader  without  any  reference  to  your  wishes.  There 
are  no  mago ; a man  rides  the  “ front  horse,”  and  goes 
at  whatever  pace  you  please,  or  if  you  get  a “front 
horsii  ” you  may  go  without  any  one.  Horses  are  cheap 
and  abundant.  They  drive  a number  of  them  down 
from  the  hills  every  morning  into  corrals  in  the  villages, 
and  keep  them  there  till  they  are  wanted.  Because 
they  are  so  cheap  they  are  very  badly  used.  I have 
not  seen  one  yet  without  a sore  back,  produced  by  the 
harsh  pack-saddle  rubbing  up  and  down  the  spine,  as 
the  loaded  animals  are  driven  at  a run.  They  are 
mostly  very  poor-looking. 


80 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


As  there  was  some  difficulty  about  getting  a horse  for 
me,  the  Consul  sent  one  of  the  Kaitakuslii  saddle-horses, 
a handsome,  lazy  animal,  which  I rarely  succeeded  in 
stimulating  into  a heavy  gallop.  Leaving  Ito  to  follow 
with  the  baggage,  I enjoyed  my  solitary  ride  and  the 
possibility  of  choosing  my  own  pace  very  much,  though 
the  choice  was  only  between  a slow  walk  ani  the  lum- 
bering gallop  aforesaid. 

I met  strings  of  horses  loaded  with  deer-hides,  and 
overtook  other  strings  loaded  with  sakS  and  manufac- 
tured goods,  and  in  each  case  had  a fight  with  my  so- 
ciably inclined  animal.  In  hvo  villages  I was  interested 
to  see  that  the  small  shops  contained  lucifer  matches, 
cotton  umbrellas,  boots,  brushes,  clocks,  slates,  and  pen- 
cils, engravings  in  frames,  kerosene  lamps,i  and  red  and 
green  blankets,  all  but  the  last,  which  are  unmistak- 
able British  “shoddy,”  being  Japanese  imitations  of 
foreign  manufactured  goods,  more  or  less  cleverly  exe- 
cuted. The  road  goes  up-hill  for  fifteen  miles,  and 
after  passing  Nanai,  a trim  Europeanised  village  in  the 
midst  of  fine  crops,  one  of  the  places  at  which  the  Gov- 
ernment is  making  acclimatisation  and  other  agricul- 
tural experiments,  it  fairly  enters  the  mountains,  and 
from  the  top  of  a steep  hill  there  is  a glorious  view  of 
Hakodate  Head,  looldng  like  an  island  in  the  deep  blue 
sea,  and  from  the  top  of  a higher  hill,  looking  north- 
ward, a magnificent  view  of  the  volcano  with  its  bare, 
pink  summit  rising  above  three  lovely  lakes  densely 
wooded.  These  are  the  flushed  scaurs  and  outbreaks  of 
bare  rock  for  Avhich  I sighed  amidst  the  smothering 

1 The  use  of  kerosene  in  matted  wooden  houses  is  a new  cause  of 
conflagrations.  It  is  not  possible  to  say  how  it  originated,  but  just 
before  Christmas  1879  a fire  broke  out  in  Hakodate,  which  in  a few 
hours  destroyed  20  streets,  2500  houses,  the  British  Consulate,  several 
public  buildings,  the  new  native  Christian  Church,  and  the  Church 
Mission  House,  leaving  11,000  people  homeless. 


JAPANESE  COURTESY. 


31 


greenery  of  the  main  island,  and  the  silver  gleam  of  the 
lakes  takes  away  the  bMndness  from  the  face  of  nature. 
It  was  delicious  to  descend  to  the  water’s  edge  in  the 
dewy  silence  amidst  balsamic  odours,  to  find  not  a clat- 
tering grey  village  with  its  monoton}-,  but  a single, 
irregularly-built  house,  with  lovely  surroundings. 

It  is  a most  displeasing  road  for  most  of  the  way; 
sides  with  deep  corrugations,  and  in  the  middle  a high 
causeway  of  earth,  whose  height  is  being  added  to  by 
hundreds  of  creels  of  earth  brought  on  ponies’  backs. 
It  is  supposed  that  carriages  and  waggons  will  use  this 
causeway,  but  a shying  horse  or  a bad  driver  Avould 
overturn  them.  As  it  is  at  present,  the  road  is  only 
passable  for  pack-horses,  owing  to  the  number  of  broken 
bridges.  I passed  strings  of  horses  laden  with  sake 
going  into  the  interior.  The  people  of  Yezo  drink 
freely,  and  the  poor  Ainos  outrageously.  On  the  road 
I dismounted  to  rest  myself  by  walking  up  hill,  and 
the  saddle  being  loosely  girthed,  the  gear  behind  it 
dragged  it  round  and  under  the  body  of  the  horse, 
and  it  was  too  heavy  for  me  to  lift  on  his  back  again. 
When  I had  led  him  for  some  time  two  Japanese  with 
a string  of  pack-horses  loaded  with  deer-hides  met  me, 
and  not  only  put  the  saddle  on  again,  but  held  the  stir- 
rup while  I remounted,  and  bowed  politely  when  I 
went  away.  Who  could  help  liking  such  a courteous 
and  kindly  people  ? 

Mori,  Volcano  Bay,  Monday. 

Even  Ginsainoma  was  not  Paradise  after  dark,  and  I 
was  actually  driven  to  bed  early  by  the  number  of 
mosquitoes.  Ito  is  in  an  excellent  humour  on  this 
tour.  Like  me,  he  likes  the  freedom  of  the  Hokkaido. 
He  is  much  more  polite  and  agreeable  also,  and  very 
proud  of  the  Governor’s  skomon.,  with  which  he  swag- 


32 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


gers  into  hotels  and  Transport  Offices.  I never  get  on 
so  well  as  when  he  arranges  for  me.  Saturday  was 
grey  and  lifeless,  and  the  ride  of  seven  miles  here  along 
a sandy  road  through  monotonous  forest  and  swamp, 
with  the  volcano  on  one  side  and  low  wooded  hills  on 
the  other,  was  wearisome  and  fatiguing.  I saw  five 
large  snakes  all  in  a heap,  and  a number  more  twisting 
through  the  grass.  There  are  no  villages,  but  several 
very  poor  tea-houses,  and  on  the  other  side  of  the  road 
long  sheds  with  troughs  hollowed  like  canoes  out  of  the 
trunks  of  trees,  containing  horse  food.  Here  nobody 
walks,  and  the  men  ride  at  a quick  run,  sitting  on  the 
tops  of  their  pack-saddles  with  their  legs  crossed  above 
their  horses’  necks,  and  wearing  large  hats  like  coal- 
scuttle bonnets.  The  horses  are  infested  with  ticks, 
hundreds  upon  one  animal  sometimes,  and  occasionally 
they  become  so  mad  from  the  irritation  that  they  throw 
themselves  suddenly  on  the  ground,  and  roll  over  load 
and  rider.  I saw  this  done  twice.  The  ticks  often 
transfer  themselves  to  the  riders. 

Mori  is  a large,  ramshackle  village,  near  the  southern 
point  of  Volcano  Bay,  a wild,  dreary-looking  place  on  a 
sandy  shore,  with  a number  oi  j or 6y as  and  disreputable 
characters.  Several  of  the  yadoyas  are  not  respectable, 
but  I rather  like  this  one,  and  it'  has  a very  fine  view  of 
the  volcano,  which  forms  one  point  of  the  bay.  Mori 
has  no  anchorage,  though  it  has  an  unfinished  pier  345 
feet  long.  The  steam  ferry  across  the  mouth  of  the  bay 
is  here,  and  there  is  a very  difficult  bridle-track  running 
for  nearly  100  miles  round  the  bay  besides,  and  a road 
into  the  interior.  But  it  is  a forlorn,  decayed  place. 
Last  night  the  inn  was  very  noisy,  as  some  travellers 
in  the  next  room  to  mine  hired  geishas.,  who  played, 
sang,  and  danced  till  two  in  the  morning,  and  the 
whole  party  imbibed  sake  freely.  In  this  compara- 


THE  STEAM  FERRY. 


33 


tively  northern  latitude  the  summer  is  already  waning. 
The  seeds  of  the  blossoms  which  were  in  their  glory 
when  I arrived  are  ripe,  and  here  and  there  a tinge  of 
yellow  on  a hill-side,  or  a scarlet  spray  of  maple,  heralds 
the  glories  and  the  coolness  of  autumn. 

The  travellers  in  the  next  room  played  all  day  at  a 
game  which  I have  seen  literally  everywhere  in  Japan, 
wherever  men  have  time  to  kill.  This  great  resource  is 
called  go.,  and  is  played  with  180  white  discs  cut  from 
a species  of  cockle  shell,  and  181  black  ones,  made  from 
a black  pebble.  The  board  is  divided  into  361  squares, 
and  the  game  consists  in  enclosing  a certain  space,  and 
preventing  the  opponent  from  doing  the  same.  The 
table  on  which  the  board  is  set,  called  the  go-ban.,  has  a 
square  hollow  beneath  it,  to  which  a terrible  legend 
attaches,  namely,  that  according  to  the  ancient  laws  of 
the  game,  if  a third  person  interfered  or  offered  his  ad- 
vice to  either  player  his  head  might  be  chopped  off  and 
placed  in  the  hollow,  which  would  collect  the  blood 
which  dripped  from  it ! Hence  its  ghastly  name,  which 
means  “ the  blood-collector ! ” These  men  played  at 
go  from  seven  in  the  morning  till  eleven  at  night.  I 
have  seen  sJiogi  or.  Japanese  chess  played,  but  not  so 
universally  as  go, 

Ydbets,  Yezo. 

A loud  yell  of  “ steamer,”  coupled  with  the  informa- 
tion that  “she  could  not  wait  one  minute,”  broke  in 
upon  go  and  everything  else,  and  in  a broiling  sun  wc 
hurried  down  to  the  pier,  and  with  a heap  of  Japanese, 
who  filled  two  scows.,  were  put  on  board  a steamer  not 
bigger  than  a large,  decked  steam  launch,  where  the 
natives  were  all  packed  into  a covered  hole,  and  I was 
conducted  with  much  ceremony  to  the  forecastle,  a 
place  at  the  bow  5 feet  square,  full  of  coils  of  rope, 


34 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


shut  in,  and  left  to  solitude  and  dignity,  and  the  stare 
of  eight  eyes,  which  perseveringly  glowered  through 
the  windows ! The  steamer  had  been  kept  waiting  for 
me  on  the  other  side  for  two  days,  to  the  infinite  dis- 
gust of  two  foreigners,  who  wished  to  return  to  Hako- 
date, and  to  mine. 

It  was  a splendid  day,  with  foam  crests  on  the  won- 
derfully blue  water,  and  the  red  ashes  of  the  volcano, 
which  forms  the  south  point  of  the  bay,  glowed  in  the 
sunlight.  This  wretched  steamer,  whose  boilers  are  so 
often  “ sick  ” that  she  can  never  be  relied  upon,  is  the 
only  means  of  reaching  the  new  capital  without  taking 
a most  difficult  and  circuitous  route.  To  continue  the 
pier  and  put  a capable,  good  steamer  on  the  ferry  would 
be  a useful  expenditure  of  money.  The  breeze  was 
strong  and  in  our  favour,  but  even  with  this  it  took  us 
six  weary  hours  to  steam  twenty-five  miles,  and  it  was 
eight  at  night  before  we  reached  the  beautiful  and 
almost  land-locked  bay  of  Mororan,  with  steep,  wooded 
sides,  and  deep  water  close  to  the  shore,  deep  enough 
for  the  foreign  ships  of  war  which  occasionally  anchor 
there,  much  to  the  detriment  of  the  town.  We  got  off 
in  over-crowded  sampans.,  and  several  people  fell  into 
the  water,  much  to  their  own  amusement.  The  ser- 
vants from  the  different  yadoyas  go  down  to  the  jetty 
to  “ tout  ” for  guests  with  large  paper  lanterns,  and  the 
effect  of  these,  one  above  another,  waving  and  undu- 
lating, with  their  soft  coloured  light,  was  as  bewitching 
as  the  reflection  of  the  stars  in  the  motionless  water. 
Mororan  is  a small  town  very  picturesquely  situated  on 
the  steep  shore  of  a most  lovely  bay,  with  another 
height,  richly  wooded,  above  it,  with  shrines  approached 
by  flights  of  stone  stairs,  and  behind  this  hill  there  is 
the  first  Aino  village  along  this  coast. 

The  long,  irregular  street  is  sligiitly  picturesque,  but 


COOLIES  ABSCOND. 


35 


I was  impressed  both  with  the  unusual  sight  of  loafers, 
and  with  the  dissolute  look  of  the  place,  arising  from 
the  number  oijoroyas.,  and  from  the  number  of  yadoyas 
that  are  also  haunts  of  the  vicious.  I could  only  get  a 
very  small  room  in  a very  poor  and  dirty  inn,  but  there 
were  no  mosquitoes,  and  I got  a good  meal  of  fish.  On 
sending  to  order  horses  I found  that  everything  was 
arranged  for  my  journey.  The  Governor  sent  his  card 
early,  to  know  if  there  were  anything  I should  like  to 
see  or  do,  but  as  the  morning  was  grey  and  threatening, 
I wished  to  push  on,  and  at  9.30  I was  in  the  kuruma  at 
the  inn  door.  I call  it  the  kuruma  because  it  is  the  only 
one,  and  is  kept  by  the  Government  for  the  conveyance 
of  hospital  patients.  I sat  there  uncomfortably  and 
patiently  for  half  an  hour,  my  only  amusement  being 
the  flirtations  of  Ito  with  a very  pretty  girl.  Loiterers 
assembled,  but  no  one  came  to  draw  the  vehicle,  and 
by  degrees  the  dismal  truth  leaked  out,  that  the  three 
coolies  who  had  been  impressed  for  the  occasion  had  all 
absconded,  and  that  four  policemen  were  in  search  of 
them.  I walked  on  in  a dawdling  way  up  the  steep 
hill  which  leads  from  the  town,  met  Mr.  Akboshi,  a 
pleasant  young  Japanese  surveyor,  who  spoke  English, 
and  stigmatised  ^lororan  as  “ the  worst  place  in  Yezo ; ” 
and  after  fuming  for  two  hours  at  the  waste  of  time, 
was  overtaken  by  Ito  with  the  horses,  in  a boiling  rage. 
“ They’re  the  worst  and  wickedest  coolies  in  all  Japan,” 
he  stammered ; “ two  more  ran  away,  and  now  three  are 
coming,  and  have  got  paid  for  four,  and  the  first  three 
who  ran  away  got  paid,  and  the  Express  man’s  so 
ashamed  for  a foreigner,  and  the  Governor’s  in  a furi- 
ous rage.” 

Except  for  the  loss  of  time,  it  made  no  difference  to 
me,  but  when  the  kuruma  did  come  up  the  runners  were 
three  such  ruffianly-looking  men,  and  were  dressed  so 


36 


UNBEATEN  TBACES  IN  JAPAN. 


wildly  in  bark  cloth,  that,  in  sending  Ito  on  twelve 
miles  to  secure  relays,  I sent  my  money  along  with  him. 
These  men,  though  there  were  three  instead  of  two, 
never  went  out  of  a walk,  and,  as  if  on  purpose,  took 
the  veliicle  over  every  stone,  and  into  every  rut,  and 
kept  up  a savage  chorus  of  Tiaes-hora^^'  the 

whole  time,  as  if  they  were  pulling  stone-carts.  There 
are  really  no  runners  out  of  Hakodate,  and  the  men 
don’t  know  how  to  pull,  and  hate  doing  it. 

Mororan  Bay  is  truly  beautiful  from  the  top  of  the 
ascent.  The  coast  scenery  of  Japan  generally  is  the 
loveliest  I have  ever  seen,  except  that  of  a portion  of 
windward  Hawaii,  and  this  yields  in  beauty  to  none. 
The  irregular  grey  town,  with  a grey  temple  on  tlie 
height  above,  straggles  round  the  little  bay  on  a steep, 
wooded  terrace ; hills,  densely  wooded,  and  with  a per- 
fect entanglement  of  large-leaved  trailers,  descend 
abruptly  to  the  water’s  edge ; the  festoons  of  the  vines 
are  mirrored  in  the  still  waters;  and  above  tlie  dark 
forest,  and  beyond  the  gleaming  sea,  rises  the  red, 
peaked  top  of  the  volcano.  Then  the  road  dips 
abruptly  to  sandy  swellings,  rising  into  bold  headlands 
here  and  there ; and  for  the  first  time  I saw  the  surge 
of  5000  miles  of  unbroken  ocean  break  upon  the  shore. 
Glimpses  of  the  Pacific,  an  uncultivated,  swampy  level 
quite  uninhabited,  and  distant  hills  mainly  covered  with 
forest,  made  up  the  landscape  till  I reached  Horobets,  a 
mixed  Japanese  and  Aino  village  built  upon  the  sand 
near  the  sea. 

In  these  mixed  villages  the  Ainos  are  compelled  to 
live  at  a respectful  distance  from  the  Japanese,  and  fre- 
quently outnumber  them,  as  at  Horobets,  where  there 
are  forty-seven  Aino  and  only  eighteen  J apanese  houses. 
The  Aino  village  looks  larger  than  it  really  is,  because 
nearly  every  house  has  a hura.,  raised  six  feet  from  the 


AINO  HOUSES. 


37 


ground  by  wooden  stilts.  When  I am  better  acquainted 
with  the  houses  I shall  describe  them ; at  present  I will 
only  say  that  they  do  not  resemble  the  Japanese  houses 
so  much  as  the  Polynesian,  as  they  are  made  of  reeds 
very  neatly  tied  upon  a wooden  framework.  They 
have  small  windows,  and  roofs  of  a very  great  height, 
and  steep  pitch,  with  the  thatch  in  a series  of  very  neat 
frills,  and  the  ridge  poles  covered  with  reeds,  and  orna- 
mented. The  coast  Ainos  are  nearly  all  engaged  in 
fishing,  but  at  this  season  the  men  hunt  deer  in  the  for- 
ests. On  this  coast  there  are  several  names  com 


AINO  8TOBE-HOU8E  AT  HOROBET8. 


pounded  with  lets  or  pets.,  the  Aino  for  a river,  such  as 
Horobets,  Yubets,  Mombets,  etc. 

I found  that  Ito  had  been  engaged  for  a whole  hour 
in  a violent  altercation,  which  was  caused  by  the 
Transport  Agent  refusing  to  supply  runners  for  the 
kuruma.,  saying  that  no  one  in  Horobets  would  draw 
one,  but  on  my  producing  the  shomon  I was  at  once 
started  on  my  journey  of  sixteen  miles  with  three  Jap- 
anese lads,  Ito  riding  on  to  Shiraoi  to  get  my  room 
ready.  1 think  that  the  Transport  Offices  in  Yezo  are 
in  Government  hands.  In  a few  minutes  three  Ainos 


38 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


ran  out  of  a liouse,  took  the  Icuruma^  and  went  the 
whole  stage  without  stopping.  They  took  a boy  and 
three  saddled  horses  along  with  them  to  bring  them 
back,  and  rode  and  hauled  alternately,  two  }muths 
always  attached  to  the  shafts,  and  a man  pushing 
behind.  They  were  very  kind,  and  so  courteous,  aftei 
a new  fashion,  that  I quite  forgot  that  I w'as  alone 
among  savages.  The  lads  were  young  and  beardless, 


AiNO  LODGES  {From  a Japanese  Sketch). 


their  lips  were  thick,  and  their  mouths  very  wide,  and 
I thought  that  they  approached  more  nearl}'  to  the 
Eskimo  type  than  to  any  otlier.  Tliey  had  masses  of 
soft  black  hair  falling  on  each  side  of  their  faces.  The 
adult  man  was  not  a pure  Aino.  His  dark  hair  was 
not  very  thick,  and  both  it  and  his  beard  had  an  occa- 
sional auburn  gleam.  I think  I never  saw  a face  more 
completely  beautiful  in  features  and  expression,  with 


A BEAUTIFUL  AINO. 


39 


a lofty,  sad,  far-off,  gentle,  intellectual  look,  rather 
that  of  Sir  Noel  Paton’s  “ Christ  ” than  of  a savage 
His  manner  was  most  graceful,  and  he  spoke  both  Aino 
and  Japanese  in  the  low  musical  tone  which  I find  is 
a characteristic  of  Aino  speech.  These  Ainos  never 
took  off  their  clothes,  but  merely  let  them  fall  from  one 
or  both  shoulders  when  it  was  very  warm. 

The  road  from  Horobets  to  Shiraoi  is  very  solitary, 
with  not  more  than  four  or  five  houses  the  whole  way. 
It  is  broad  and  straight,  except  wlien  it  ascends  hills, 
or  turns  inland  to  cross  rivers,  and  is  carried  across  a 
broad  swampy  level,  covered  with  tall  wild  flowers, 
which  extends  from  the  high  beach  thrown  up  by  the 
sea  for  two  miles  inland,  where  there  is  a lofty  Avail  of 
wooded  rock,  and  beyond  this  the  forest-covered  moun- 
tains of  the  interior.  On  the  top  of  the  raised  beach 
there  were  Aino  hamlets,  and  occasionally  a nearly 
overpowering  stench  came  across  the  level  from  the 
sheds  and  apparatus  used  for  extracting  fish-oil.  I 
enjoyed  the  afternoon  thoroughly.  It  is  so  good  to 
have  got  beyond  the  confines  of  stereotyped  civilisa- 
tion, and  the  trammels  of  Japanese  travelling,  to  the 
solitude  of  nature,  and  an  atmosphere  of  freedom.  It 
Avas  grey,  Avith  a hard,  dark  line  of  ocean  horizon,  and 
over  the  Aveedy  level  the  grey  road,  with  grey  tele- 
graph poles  along  it,  stretched  Avearisornely  like  a grey 
thread.  The  breeze  came  up  from  the  sea,  rustled  the 
reeds,  and  waved  the  tall  plumes  of  the  Eulalia  Japon- 
ica^  and  the  thunder  of  the  Pacific  surges  boomed 
through  the  air  with  its  grand,  deep  bass.  Poetry  and 
music  pervaded  the  solitude,  and  my  spirit  Avas  rested. 

Going  up  and  then  doAvn  a steep,  Avooded  hill,  the 
road  appeared  to  return  to  its  original  state  of  brush- 
wood, and  the  men  stopped  at  the  broken  edge  of  a 
declivity  which  led  down  to  a shingle  bank  and  a foam- 


40 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


crested  river  of  clear,  blue-green  water,  strong] }'■  im- 
pregnated with  sulphur  from  some  medicinal  spring? 
above,  with  a steep  bank  of  tangle  on  the  opposite 
side.  This  beautiful  stream  was  crossed  by  two  round 
poles,  a foot  apart,  on  which  I attempted  to  walk,  with 
the  help  of  an  Aino  hand;  but  the  poles  were  very 
unsteady,  and  I doubt  whether  any  one,  even  with  a 
strong  head,  could  walk  on  them  in  boots.  Then  the 
beautiful  Aino  signed  to  me  to  come  back  and  mount 
on  his  shoulders ; but  when  he  had  got  a few  feet  out 
the  poles  swayed  and  trembled  so  much,  that  he  was 
obliged  to  retrace  his  way  cautiously,  during  which 
process  I endured  miseries  from  dizziness  and  fear ; 
after  which  he  carried  me  through  the  rushing  water, 
which  was  up  to  his  shoulders,  and  through  a bit  of 
swampy  jungle,  and  up  a steep  bank,  to  the  great 
fatigue  both  of  body  and  mind,  hardly  mitigated  by 
the  enjoyment  of  the  ludicrous  in  riding  a savage 
through  these  Yezo  waters.  They  dexterously  carried 
the  Jcuruma  through,  on  the  shoulders  of  four,  and 
showed  extreme  anxiety  that  neither  it  nor  I should 
get  wet.  After  this  we  crossed  two  deep,  still  rivers, 
in  scows,  and  far  above  the  grey  level  and  the  grey  sea, 
the  sun  was  setting  in  g9ld  and  vermilion-streaked 
green  behind  a glorified  mountain  of  great  height,  at 
whose  feet  the  forest-covered  hills  lay  in  purple  gloom. 
At  dark  we  reached  Shira6i,  a village  of  eleven  Jap- 
anese houses,  with  a village  of  fifty-one  Aino  houses, 
near  the  sea.  There  is  a large  yadoya  of  the  old  style 
there ; but  I found  that  Ito  had  chosen  a very  pretty 
new  one,  with  four  stalls  open  to  the  road,  in  the  centre 
one  of  which  I found  him,  with  the  welcome  news  that 
a steak  of  fresh  salmon  was  broiling  on  the  coals ; and 
as  the  room  was  clean  and  sweet,  and  I was  very  hun- 
gry, I enjoyed  my  meal  by  the  light  of  a rush  in  a 
saucer  of  fish-oil  as  much  as  any  part  of  the  day. 


FLORAL  BEAUTIES. 


41 


Sakufuto. 

The  night  was  too  cold  for  sleep,  and  at  daybreak, 
hearing  a great  din,  I looked  out,  and  saw  a drove  of 
fully  a hundred  horses  all  tgalloping  down  the  road, 
with  two  Ain  os  on  horseback,  and  a number  of  big 
dogs  after  them.  Hundreds  of  horses  run  nearly  wild 
on  the  hills,  and  the  Ainos,  getting  a large  drove  to- 
gether, skilfully  head  them  for  the  entrance  into  the 
corral.)  in  which  a selection  of  them  is  made  for  the 
day’s  needs,  and  the  remainder  — that  is,  those  with 
the  deepest  sores  on  their  backs  — are  turned  loose. 
This  dull  rattle  of  shoeless  feet  is  the  first  sound  in 
the  morning  in  these  Yezo  villages.  I sent  Ito  on 
early,  and  followed  at  nine  with  three  Ainos.  The 
road  is  perfectly  level  for  thirteen  miles,  through 
gravel  flats  and  swamps,  very  monotonous,  but  with 
a wild  charm  of  its  own.  There  were  swampy  lakes, 
with  wild  ducks  and  small  white  water-lilies,  and  the 
surrounding  levels  were  covered  with  reedy  grass, 
flowers,  and  weeds.  The  early  autumn  has  withered 
a great  many  of  the  flowers ; but  enough  remains  to 
show  how  beautiful  the  now  russet  plains  must  have 
been  in  the  early  summer.  A dwarf  rose,  of  a deep 
crimson  colour,  with  orange,  medlar-shaped  hips,  as 
large  as  crabs,  and  corollas  three  inches  across,  is  one 
of  the  features  of  Yezo ; and  besides,  there  is  a large 
rose-red  convolvulus,  a blue  campanula,  with  tiers  of 
bells,  a blue  monkshood  the  Aconitum  Japonicum.,  the 
flaunting  Calystegia  soldanella.,  purple  asters,  grass  of 
Parnassus,  yellow  lilies,  and  a remarkable  trailer,  whose 
delicate  leafage  looked  quite  out  of  place  among  its 
coarse  surroundings,  with  a purplish-brown  campanu- 
late  blossom,  only  remarkable  for  a peculiar  arrange- 
ment of  the  pistil,  green  stamens,  and  a most  offensive 
carrion-like  odour,  which  is  probably  to  attract  to  it  a 


42 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


very  objectionable-looking  fly,  for  purposes  of  fertilisa- 
tion. 

We  overtook  four  Aino  women,  j'oung  and  comely, 
with  bare  feet,  striding  firi^ly  along ; and  after  a good 
deal  of  laughing  with  the  men,  they  took  hold  of  the 
kuruma.,  and  the  whole  seven  raced  with  it  at  full  speed 
for  half  a mile,  shrieking  with  laughter.  Soon  after 
we  came  upon  a little  tea-house,  and  the  Ainos  showed 
me  a straw  package,  and  pointed  to  their  open  mouths, 
by  which  I understood  that  they  wished  to  stop  and 
eat.  Later  we  overtook  four  Japanese  on  horseback, 
and  the  Ainos  raced  with  them  for  a considerable  dis- 
tance — the  result  of  these  spurts  being  that  I reached 
Tomakomai  at  noon,  a wide,  dreary  place,  with  houses 
roofed  with  sod,  bearing  luxuriant  crops  of  weeds. 
Near  this  place  is  the  volcano  of  Tarumai,  a calm- 
looking grey  cone,  whose  skirts  are  draped  by  tens  of 
thousands  of  dead  trees.  So  calm  and  grey  had  it 
looked  for  many  a year,  that  people  supposed  it  had 
passed  into  endless  rest,  when  quite  lately,  on  a sultry 
day,  it  blew  off  its  cap,  and  covered  the  whole  country 
for  many  a mile  with  cinders  and  ashes,  burning  up  the 
forest  on  its  sides,  adding  a new  covering  to  the  Tom- 
akomai roofs,  and  depositing  fine  ash  as  far  as  Cape 
Erimo,  fifty  miles  off. 

At  this  place  the  road  and  telegraph  wires  turn  inland 
to  Satsuporo,  and  a track  for  horses  only  turns  to  the 
north-east,  and  straggles  round  the  island  for  about 
seven  hundred  miles.  From  Mororan  to  Sarufuto  there 
are  everywhere  traces  of  new  and  old  volcanic  action, 
pumice,  tufas,  conglomerates,  and  occasional  beds  of 
hard  basalt,  all  covered  with  recent  pumice,  whicli, 
from  Shiraoi  eastward,  conceals  everything.  At  Toma- 
komai we  took  horses,  and,  as  I brought  my  own  sad- 
dle, I have  bad  the  nearest  approach  to  real  riding  that 


■IN  UNBEATEN  TRACK. 


4? 


I have  enjoyed  in  Japan.  The  wife  of  a Satsuporo  doc- 
tor was  there,  wlio  was  travelling  for  two  hundred  miles 
astride  on  a pack-saddle,  with  rope-loops  for  stirrups. 
She  rode  well,  and  vaulted  into  my  saddle  with  circus- 
like dexterity,  and  performed  many  equestrian  feats 
upon  it,  telling  me  that  she  should  be  quite  iiappy  if 
she  were  possessed  of  it. 

I was  happy  wlien  I left  the  “beaten  track”  to 
Satsuporo,  and  saw  before  me,  stretching  for  I know 
not  hoAV  far,  rolling,  sandy  machirs  like  those  of  the 
Outer  Hebrides,  desert-like  and  lonely,  covered  almost 
altogether  with  dwarf  roses  and  campanulas,  a prairie 
land  on  which  you  can  make  any  tracks  you  please. 
Sending  the  others  on,  I followed  them  at  the  Yezo 
scramble.,  and  soon  ventured  on  a long  gallop,  and  rev- 
elled in  the  music  of  the  thud  of  shoeless  feet  over  the 
elastic  soil,  but  I had  not  realised  the  peculiarities  of 
Yezo  steeds,  and  had  forgotten  to  ask  whether  mine 
was  a “front  horse,”  and  just  as  we  were  going  at  full 
speed  we  came  nearly  up  with  the  others,  and  my  horse 
coming  abruptly  to  a full  stop,  I went  six  feet  over  his 
head  among  the  rose-bushes.  Ito  looking  back  saw  me 
tightening  the  saddle-girths,  and  I never  divulged  this 
escapade. 

After  riding  eight  miles  along  this  breezy  belt,  with 
the  sea  on  one  side  and  forests  on  the  other,  we  came 
upon  Yubets,  a place  which  has  fascinated  me  so  much 
that  I intend  to  return  to  it,  but  I must  confess  that  its 
fascinations  depend  rather  upon  what  it  lias  not  than 
upon  what  it  has,  and  Ito  says  that  it  would  kill  him  to 
spend  even  two  days  there.  It  looks  like  the  end  of 
all  things,  as  if  loneliness  and  desolation  could  go  no 
farther.  A sandy  stretch  on  three  sides,  a river  arrested 
in  its  progress  to  the  sea,  and  compelled  to  wander  tedi- 
ously in  search  of  an  outlet  by  the  lieight  and  mass  of 


44 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


the  beach  thrown  up  by  the  Pacific,  a distant  forest- 
belt  rising  into  featureless,  wooded  ranges  in  shades  of 
indigo  and  grey,  and  a never-absent  consciousness  of  a 
vast  ocean  just  out  of  sight,  are  the  environments  of 
two  high  look-outs,  some  sheds  for  fish-oil  purposes, 
four  or  five  Japanese  houses,  four  Aino  huts  on  the  top 
of  the  beach  across  the  river,  and  a grey  barrack,  con- 
sisting of  a polished  passage  eighty  feet  long,  with  small 
rooms  on  either  side,  at  one  end  a gravelled  yard,  with 
two  quiet  rooms  opening  upon  it,  and  at  the  other  an 
immense  daidokoro.,  with  dark  recesses  and  blackened 
rafters,  a haunted-looking  abode.  One  would  suppose 
that  there  had  been  a special  object  in  setting  the 
houses  down  at  weary  distances  from  each  other.  Few 
as  they  are,  they  are  not  all  inhabited  at  this  season, 
and  all  that  can  be  seen  is  grey  sand,  sparse  grass,  and 
a few  savages  creeping  about. 

Nothing  that  I have  seen  has  made  such  an  impres- 
sion upon  me  as  that  ghostly,  ghastly  fishing-station. 
In  the  long  grey  wall  of  the  long  grey  barrack  there 
were  many  dismal  windows,  and  when  we  hooted  for 
admission  a stupid  face  appeared  at  one  of  them  and 
disappeared.  Then  a grey  gateway  opened,  and  we 
rode  into  a yard  of  grey  gravel,  with  some  silent  rooms 
opening  upon  it.  The  solitude  of  the  thirty  or  forty 
rooms  which  lie  between  it  and  the  kitchen,  and  wliich 
are  now  filled  with  nets  and  fishing-tackle,  was  some- 
thing awful,  and  as  the  wind  swept  along  the  polished 
passage,  rattling  the  fusuma.,  and  lifting  the  shingles  on 
the  roof,  and  the  rats  careered  from  end  to  end,  I went 
to  the  great  black  daidokoro  in  search  of  social  life,  and 
found  a few  embers  and  an  andon.,  and  nothing  else  but 
the  stupid-faced  man  deploring  his  fate,  and  two  orphan 
boys  whose  lot  he  makes  more  wretched  than  his  own. 
In  the  fisliing  season  this  barrack  accommodates  from 
200  to  300  men. 


SOLITUDE  AND  EERINESS. 


45 


I started  to  the  sea-shore,  crossing  the  dreary  river, 
and  found  open  sheds  much  blackened,  deserted  huts  of 
reeds,  long  sheds  Avith  a nearly  insufferable  odour  from 
caldrons  in  which  oil  had  been  extracted  from  last 
year’s  fish,  two  or  three  Aino  liuts,  and  two  or  three 
grand-looking  Ainos,  clothed  in  skins,  striding  like 
ghosts  over  the  sandbanks,  a number  of  wolfish  dogs, 
some  log  canoes  or  ‘‘dug-outs,”  the  bones  of  a Avrecked 
junk,  a quantity  of  bleached  drift-wood,  a beach  of 
dark-gre}^  sand,  and  a tossing  expanse  of  dark-grey 
ocean  under  a dull  and  windy  sky.  On  this  part  of 
the  coast  the  Pacific  spends  its  fury,  and  has  raised  up 
at  a short  distance  above  high-Avater  mark  a sandy 
sweep  of  such  a height  that  Avhen  you  descend  its  sea- 
ward slope  you  see  nothing  but  the  sea  and  the  sky, 
and  a grey,  curving  shore,  covered  tliick  for  many  a 
lonely  mile  with  fantastic  forms  of  whitened  drift-wood, 
the  shattered  AA^recks  of  forest-trees,  which  are  carried 
down  by  the  innumerable  rivers,  till,  after  tossing  for 
weeks  and  months  along  with 

“ Avrecks  of  ships,  and  drifting 

spars  uplifting 
On  the  desolate,  rainy  seas  : 

Ever  drifting,  drifting,  drifting, 

On  the  shifting 

Currents  of  the  restless  main ; ** 

the  “toiling  surges  ” cast  them  on  Yubets  beach,  and 
“ All  have  found  repose  again.” 

A grim  repose ! 

The  deep  boom  of  the  surf  was  music,  and  the  strange 
cries  of  sea-birds,  and  the  hoarse  notes  of  the  audacious 
black  croAA^s,  were  all  harmonious,  for  nature,  Avhen  left 
to  herself,  never  produces  discords  either  in  sound  oi 
colour. 


46 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


A MEETING. 

The  Harmonies  of  Nature  — A Good  Horse  — A Single  Discord  — A 
Forest  — Aino  Ferrymen  — “ Lcs  Puces  1 Les  Puces  ! ” — Baffled 
Explorers  — Ito’s  Contempt  for  Ainos  — An  Aino  Introduction. 

Sarufuto. 

No ! Nature  has  no  discords.  This  morning,  to  the 
far  horizon,  diamond-flashing  blue  water  shimmered  in 
perfect  peace,  outlined  by  a line  of  surf  which  broke 
lazily  on  a beach  scarcely  less  snowy  than  itself.  The 
deep,  perfect  blue  of  the  sky  was  only  broken  by  a few 
radiant  white  clouds,  whose  shadows  trailed  slowly  over 
the  plain  on  whose  broad  bosom  a thousand  corollas,  in 
the  glory  of  their  brief  but  passionate  life,  were  drink- 
ing in  the  sunshine,  wavy  ranges  slept  in  depths  of 
indigo,  and  higher  hills  beyond  were  painted  in  faint 
blue  on  the  dreamy  sky.  Even  the  few  grey  houses  of 
Yubets  were  spiritualised  into  harmony  by  a faint  blue 
veil  which  was  not  a mist,  and  the  loud  croak  of  the 
loquacious  and  impertinent  crows  had  a cheeriness 
about  it,  a hearty  mockery,  which  I liked. 

Above  all,  I had  a horse  so  good  that  he  was  always 
trying  to  run  away,  and  galloped  so  lightly  over  the 
flowery  grass  that  I rode  the  seventeen  miles  here  with 
great  enjoyment.  Truly  a good  horse,  good  ground  to 
gallop  on,  and  sunshine,  make  up  the  sum  of  enjoyable 
travelling.  The  discord  in  the  general  harmony  was 
produced  by  the  sight  of  the  Ainos,  a harmless  people 
without  the  instinct  of  progress,  descending  to  that  Tast 


A FOREST. 


47 


tomb  of  conquered  and  unknown  races  which  has 
opened  to  receive  so  many  before  them.  A mounted 
policeman  started  with  us  from  Yubets,  and  rode  the 
whole  way  here,  keeping  exactly  to  my  pace,  but  never 
speaking  a word.  We  forded  one  broad,  deep  river, 
and  crossed  another,  partly  by  fording  and  partly  in  a 
scow,  after  which  the  track  left  the  level,  and  after 
passing  tluough  reedy  grass  as  high  as  the  horse’s  ears, 
went  for  some  miles  up  and  down  hill,  through  woods 
composed  entirely  of  the  Ailayithus  glandulosus,  with 
leaves  much  riddled  by  the  mountain  silk-worm,  and  a 
ferny  undergrowth  of  the  familiar  Pteris  aquilina.  The 
deep  shade  and  glancing  lights  of  this  open  copsewood 
were  very  pleasant ; and  as  the  horse  tripped  gaily  up 
and  doAvn  the  little  hills,  and  the  sea  murmur  mingled 
with  the  rustle  of  the  breeze,  and  a glint  of  white  surf 
sometimes  flashed  through  the  greenery,  and  dragon-flies 
and  butterflies  in  suits  of  crimson  and  black  velvet 
crossed  the  path  continually  like  “living  flashes”  of 
light,  I was  reminded  somewhat,  though  faintly,  of 
windward  Hawaii.  We  emerged  upon  an  Aino  hut 
and  a beautiful  placid  river,  and  two  Ainos  ferried  the 
four  people  and  horses  across  in  a scow,  the  third  wad- 
ing to  guide  the  boat.  They  wore  no  clothing,  but  only 
one  was  hairy.  They  were  superb-looking  men,  gentle, 
and  extremely  courteous,  handing  me  in  and  out  of  the 
boat,  and  holding  the  stirrup  while  I mounted,  with 
much  natural  grace.  On  leaving  they  extended  their 
arms  and  waved  their  hands  imvards  twice,  stroking 
their  grand  beards  afterwards,  which  is  their  usual  salu- 
tation. A short  distance  over  shingle  brought  us  to 
this  Japanese  village  of  sixty-three  houses,  a colonisation 
settlement,  mainly  of  samurai  from  the  province  of 
Sendai,  who  are  raising  very  fine  crops  on  the  sandy 
soil.  The  mountains,  twelve  miles  in  the  interior,  have 


48 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


a large  Aino  population,  ^ and  a few  Ainos  live  near  this 
village  and  are  held  in  great  contempt  by  its  inhabitants 
My  room  is  on  the  village  street,  and  as  it  is  too  warm 
to  close  the  sJioji.,  the  aborigines  stand  looking  in  at  the 
lattice  hour  after  hour. 

A short  time  ago  Mr.  Von  Siebold  and  Count  Dies- 
bach  galloped  up  on  their  return  from  Biratori,  the  Aino 
village  to  which  I am  going ; and  Count  D.,  throwing 
himself  from  his  horse,  rushed  up  to  me  with  the  ex- 
clamation, Les  Puces!  Les  Puces!  They  have  brought 
down  with  them  the  chief,  Benri,  a superb  but  dissi- 
pated-looking savage.  Mr  Von  Siebold  called  on  me 
this  evening,  and  I envied  him  his  fresh,  clean  clothing 
as  much  as  he  envied  me  my  stretcher  and  mosquito- 
net.  They  have  suffered  terribly  from  fleas,  mosquitoes, 
and  general  discomfort,  and  are  much  exhausted ; but 
Mr.  Von  S.  thinks  that  in  spite  of  all,  a visit  to  the 
mountain  Ainos  is  worth  a long  journey.  As  I ex- 
pected, they  have  completely  failed  in  their  explorations, 
and  have  been  deserted  by  Lieutenant  Kreitner.  I 
asked  Mr.  Von  S.  to  speak  to  Ito  in  Japanese  about  the 
importance  of  being  kind  and  courteous  to  the  Ainos 
whose  hospitality  I shall  receive ; and  Ito  is  very  in- 
dignant at  this.  “ Treat  Ainos  politely  ! *’  he  * says ; 

They’re  just  dogs,  not  men ; ” and  since  he  has  regaled 


1 It  is  impossible  to  state  with  any  exactness  the  Aino  population  of 
Yezo.  Mr.  Enslie,  who  was  H.B.M.’s  acting  consul  at  Hakodate  from 
1861  to  1863,  gives  it  as  200,000 ! Foreigners  in  Yezo  during  my  visit 
estimated  it  at  25,000.  The  Statistical  Department  of  the  Japanese 
Government  gave  it  to  me  as  12,000,  but  with  a qualification,  as  stated  in 
the  “Notes  on  Yezo.”  I am  much  inclined  to  think  that  this  may  be 
under  the  mark  by  some  thousands,  as  smallpox,  which  caused  a con- 
siderable decline  in  their  numbers,  has  ceased.  They  are  a healthy 
people,  the  children  are  not  carried  off  by  infantile  diseases  ; and  though 
there  are  rarely  more  than  five  in  a family,  they  usually  live  to  grow  up. 
I hazard  this  conjecture  as  to  their  larger  numbers  from  the  population 
which  I ascertained  to  exist  in  eight  of  their  villages. 


AN  AINO  INTBOBUCTION. 


49 


me  with  all  the  scandal  concerning  them  which  he  has 
been  able  to  rake  together  in  the  village. 

We  have  to  take  not  only  food  for  both  Ito  and  my- 
self, but  cooking  utensils.  I have  been  introduced  to 
Benri,  the  chief ; and  though  he  does  not  return  for  a 
day  or  two,  he  will  send  a message  along  with  us  which 
will  ensure  me  hospital! tv.  I.  L.  B. 


60 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


LIVING  WITH  THE  AINOS. 

Savage  Life — A Forest  Track  — Cleanly  Villages  — A Hospitable 
Reception  — Tlie  Chiefs  Mother  — The  Evening  Meal  — A Sav- 
age Stance  — Libations  to  the  Gods  — Nocturnal  Silence  — Aino 
Courtesy  — The  Chiefs  Wife. 

Aino  Hut,  Bikatoki,  Aufjust  23. 

I AM  in  the  lonely  Aino  land,  and  I think  that  the 
most  interesting  of  my  travelling  experiences  has  been 
the  living  for  three  days  and  two  nights  in  an  Aino  hut, 


AINO  HOUSES. 


and  seeing  and  sharing  the  daily  life  of  complete  sav- 
ages, who  go  on  with  their  ordinary  occupations  just  as 
if  I were  not  among  them.  I found  yesterday  a most 


SAVAGE  LIFE. 


51 


fatiguing  and  over-exciting  day,  as  everything  was  new 
and  interesting,  even  the  extracting  from  men  who 
have  few  if  any  ideas  in  common  with  me,  all  I could 
extract  concerning  their  religion  and  customs,  and  that 
through  an  interpreter.  I got  up  at  six  this  morning 
to  write  out  my  notes,  and  have  been  writing  for  five 


AiNos  AT  HOME  {From  a Japanese  Sketch). 


hours,  and  there  is  shortly  the  prospect  of  another  sav- 
age seance.  The  distractions,  as  you  can  imagine,  are 
many.  At  this  moment  a savage  is  taking  a cup  of 
sake  by  the  fire  in  the  centre  of  the  floor.  He  salutes 
me  by  extending  his  hands  and  waving  them  towards 
his  face,  and  then  dips  a rod  in  the  sake.,  and  makes  six 
libations  to  the  god  — an  upright  piece  of  wood  with  a 


52 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


fringe  of  shavings  planted  in  the  floor  of  the  room. 
Then  he  waves  the  cup  several  times  towards  himself, 
makes  other  libations  to  the  fire,  and  drinks.  Ten 
other  men  and  women  are  sitting  along  each  side  of  the 
fire-hole,  the  chiefs  wife  is  cooking,  the  men  are  apa- 
thetically contemplating  the  preparation  of  their  food ; 
and  the  other  women,  who  are  never  idle,  are  splitting 
v:»he  bark  of  which  they  make  their  clothes.  I occupy  the 
(uest  seat  — a raised  platform  at  one  end  of  the  fire, 
vith  the  skm  of  a black  bear  thrown  over  it. 

I have  reserved  all  I have  to  say  about  the  Ainos  till 
L had  been  actually  among  them,  and  I hope  you  will 
have  patience  to  read  to  the  end.  Ito  is  very  greedy 
and  self-indulgent,  and  whimpered  very  much  about 
coming  to  Biratori  at  all,  — one  would  have  thought  he 
was  going  to  the  stake.  He  actually  borrowed  for  him- 
self a sleeping-mat  and  futons^  and  has  brought  a 
chicken,  onions,  potatoes,  French  beans,  Japanese  sauce, 
tea,  rice,  a kettle,  a stew-pan,  and  a rice-pan,  while  I 
contented  myself  with  a cold  fowl  and  potatoes. 

We  took  three  horses  and  a mounted  Aino  guide,  and 
found  a beaten  track  the  whole  way.  It  turns  into  the 
forest  at  once  on  leaving  Sarufuto,  and  goes  through 
forest  the  entire  distance,  with  an  abundance  of  reedy 
grass  higher  than  my  hat  on  horseback  along  it,  and  as 
it  is  only  twelve  inches  broad  and  much  overgrown,  the 
horses  were  constantly  pushing  through  leafage  soaldng 
from  a night’s  rain,  and  I was  soon  wet  up  to  my  shoul- 
ders. The  forest  trees  are  almost  solely  the  Ailanthus 
glandulosus  and  the  Zclkoiva  kealci.,  often  matted 
together  with  a white-flowered  trailer  of  the  Hydrangea 
genus.  The  undergrowth  is  simply  hideous,  consisting 
mainly  of  coarse  reedy  grass,  monstrous  docks,  the  large- 
leaved  Polygonum  cuspidatum.,  several  umbelliferous 
plants,  and  a “ragweed,”  which,  like  most  of  its  gawky 


A FOREST  TRACK. 


53 


fellows,  grows  from  five  to  six  feet  high.  The  forest  is 
dark  and  very  silent,  threaded  by  this  narrow  path,  and 
by  others  as  narrow,  made  by  the  hunters  in  search  of 
game.  The  “ main  road  ” sometimes  plunges  into  deep 
bogs,  at  others  is  roughly  corduroyed  by  the  roots  of 
trees,  and  frequently  hangs  over  the  edge  of  abrupt 
and  much-worn  declivities,  in  going  up  one  of  which 
the  baggage-horse  rolled  down  a bank  fully  thirty  feet 
high,  and  nearly  all  the  tea  was  lost.  At  another  the 
guide’s  pack-saddle  lost  its  balance,  and  man,  horse, 
and  saddle  went  over  the  slope,  pots,  pans,  and  pack- 
ages flying  after  them.  At  another  time  my  horse  sank 
up  to  his  chest  in  a very  bad  bog,  and  as  he  was  totally 
unable  to  extricate  himself,  I was  obliged  to  scramble 
upon  his  neck  and  jump  to  terra  fir ma  over  his  ears. 

There  is  something  very  gloomy  in  the  solitude  of 
this  silent  land,  with  its  beast-haunted  forests,  its  great 
patches  of  pasture,  the  resort  of  wild  animals  which 
haunt  the  lower  regions  in  search  of  food  when  the 
snow  drives  them  down  from  the  mountains,  and  its 
narrow  track,  indicating  the  single  file  in  which  the 
savages  of  the  interior  walk  with  their  bare,  noiseless 
feet.  Reaching  the  Sarufutogawa,  a river  with  a 
treacherous  bottom,  in  which  Mr.  Yon  Siebold  and  his 
horse  came  to  grief,  I hailed  an  Aino  boy,  who  took  me 
up  the  stream  in  a “ dug-out,”  and  after  that  we  passed 
through  Biroka,  Saruba,  and  Mina,  all  purely  Aino  vil- 
lages, situated  among  small  patches  of  millet,  tobacco, 
and  pumpkins,  so  choked  with  weeds  that  it  was  doubt- 
ful whether  they  were  crops.  I was  much  surprised 
with  the  extreme  neatness  and  cleanliness  outside  the 
houses ; “ model  villages  ” they  are  in  these  respects, 
with  no  litter  lying  in  sight  anywhere,  nothing  indeed 
but  dog  troughs,  hollowed  out  of  logs,  like  “ dug-outs,” 
for  the  numerous  yellow  dogs,  which  are  a feature  of 


54 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


Aino  life.  There  are  neither  puddles  nor  heaps,  but 
the  houses,  all  trim  and  in  good  repair,  rise  clean  out 
of  the  sandy  soil. 

Biratori,  the  largest  of  the  Aino  settlements  in  this 
region,  is  very  prettily  situated  among  forests  and 
mountains,  on  rising  ground,  with  a very  sinuous  river 
winding  at  its  feet  and  a wooded  height  above.  A 
lonelier  place  could  scarcely  be  found.  As  we  passed 
among  the  houses  the  yellow  dogs  barked,  the  women 
looked  shy  and  smiled,  and  the  men  made  their  grace- 
ful salutation.  We  stopped  at  the  chief’s  house,  where, 
of  course,  we  were  unexpected  guests;  but  Shinondi, 
his  nephew,  and  two  other  men  came  out,  saluted  us, 
and  with  most  hospitable  intent  helped  Ito  to  unload 
the  horses.  Indeed  their  eager  hospitality  created  quite 
a commotion,  one  running  hither  and  the  other  tlpther 
in  their  anxiety  to  welcome  a stranger.  It  is  a large 
house,  the  room  being  35  by  25,  and  the  roof  20  feet 
high ; but  you  enter  by  an  ante-chamber,  in  which  are 
kept  the  millet-mill  and  other  articles.  There  is  a door- 
way in  this,  but  the  inside  is  pretty  dark,  and  Shinondi, 
taking  my  hand,  raised  the  reed  curtain  bound  with 
hide,  which  concealed  the  entrance  into  the  actual 
house,  and  leading  me  into  it,  retired  a footstep,  ex- 
tended his  arms,  waved  his  hands  inwards  three  times, 
and  then  stroked  his  beard  several  times,  after  which 
he  indicated  by  a sweep  of  his  hand  and  a beautiful 
smile  that  the  house  and  all  it  contained  were  mine. 
An  aged  Avoman,  the  chiefs  mother,  who  Avas  splitting 
bark  by  the  fire,  Avaved  her  hands  also.  She  is  the 
queen-regnant  of  the  house. 

Again  taking  ni}^  hand,  Shinondi  led  me  to  the  place 
of  honour  at  the  head  of  the  fire,  a rude,  movable  plat- 
form six  feet  long,  by  four  broad,  and  a foot  liigh,  on 
which  he  laid  an  ornamental  mat,  apologising  for  not 


A HOSPITABLE  RECEPTION. 


56 


having  at  that  moment  a bearskin  wherewitli  to  cover 
it.  The  baggage  was  speedily  brought  in  by  several 
willing  pairs  of  hands ; some  reed  mats  fifteen  feet  long 
were  laid  down  upon  the  very  coarse  ones  which 
covered  the  whole  floor,  and  when  they  saw  Ito  putting 
up  my  stretcher  they  hung  a fine  mat  along  the  rough 
wall  to  conceal  it,  and  suspended  another  on  tlie  beams 
of  the  roof  for  a canopy.  The  alacrity  and  instinctive 
Jiospitality  with  which  these  men  rushed  about  to  make 


AINO  MILLET-MILL  AND  PESTLE. 


things  comfortable  were  very  fascinating,  though  com- 
fort is  a word  misapplied  in  an  Aino  hut.  The  women 
only  did  what  the  men  told  them. 

They  olfered  food  at  once,  but  I told  them  that  I had 
brought  my  own,  and  would  only  ask  leave  to  cook  it 
on  their  fire.  I need  not  have  brought  any  cups,  for 
they  have  many  lacquer  bowls,  and  Shinondi  brought 
me  on  a lacquer  tray  a bowl  full  of  water  from  one  of 
their  four  wells.  They  said  that  Benri,  the  chief,  would 
wish  me  to  make  his  house  my  own  for  as  long  as  I 


56 


UNBEATE2^  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


cared  to  stay,  and  I must  excuse  them  in  all  things  in 
which  their  ways  were  different  from  m}^  own.  Shi- 
nondi  and  four  others  in  the  village  speak  tolerable 
Japanese,  and  this  of  course  is  the  medium  of  commu- 
nication. Ito  has  exerted  himself  nobly  as  an  interpre- 
ter, and  has  entered  into  my  wishes  with  a cordiality 
and  intelligence  which  have  been  perfectly  invaluable; 
and  though  he  did  growl  at  Mr.  Von  Siebold’s  injunc- 
tions regarding  politeness,  he  has  carried  them  out  to 
my  satisfaction,  and  even  admits  that  the  mountain 
Ainos  are  better  than  he  expected;  “but,”  he  added, 
“ they  have  learned  their  politeness  from  the  Japanese  ! ” 
They  have  never  seen  a foreign  woman,  and  only  tlrree 
foreign  men,  but  there  is  neither  crowding  nor  staring 
as  among  the  Japanese,  possibly  in  part  from  apathy 
and  want  of  intelligence.  For  three  days  they  have 
kept  up  their  graceful  and  kindly  hospitality,  going  on 
with  their  ordinary  life  and  occupations,  and  though  I 
have  lived  among  them  in  this  room  by  day  and  night, 
there  has  been  nothing  which  in  any  way  could  offend 
the  most  fastidious  sense  of  delicacy. 

They  said  they  would  leave  me  to  eat  and  rest,  and 
all  retired  but  the  chiefs  mother,  a weird,  witch-like 
woman  of  eight}^  Avith  shocks  of  yelloAV-Avhite  hair,  and 
a stern  suspiciousness  in  her  wrinkled  face.  I have 
come  to  feel  as  if  she  had  the  evil  eye,  as  she  sits  there 
watching,  Avatching  ahvaj^s,  and  for  CA^er  knotting  the 
bark  thread  like  one  of  the  Fates,  keeping  a jealous 
watch  on  her  son’s  tAvo  wives,  and  on  other  young 
women  who  come  in  to  Aveave --neither  the  dulness  nor 
the  repose  of  old  age  about  her ; and  her  ejes  gleam 
Avith  a greedy  light  when  she  sees  sake.,  of  which  she 
drains  a bowl  without  taking  breath.  She  alone  is  sus- 
picious of  strangers,  and  she  thinks  that  my  visit  bodes 
no  good  to  her  tribe.  I see  her  eyes  fixed  upon  me 
noAV,  and  they  make  me  shudder. 


THE  EVENING  MEAL. 


57 


I had  a good  meal  seated  in  my  chair  on  the  top  of 
the  guest-seat  to  avoid  the  fleas,  which  are  truly  legion. 
At  dusk  Shinondi  returned,  and  soon  people  began  to 
drop  in,  till  eighteen  were  assembled,  including  the  sub- 
chief, and  several  very  grand-looking  old  men,  'u^ith  full, 
grey,  wavy  beards.  Age  is  held  in  much  reverence,  and 
it  is  etiquette  for  these  old  men  to  do  honour  to  a guest 
in  the  chief’s  absence.  As  each  entered  he  saluted  me 
several  times,  and  after  sitting  down  turned  towards  me 
and  saluted  again,  going  through  the  same  ceremony 
with  every  other  person.  They  said  they  had  come  “to 
bid  me  welcome.”  They  took  their  places  in  rigid 
order  at  each  side  of  the  fireplace,  which  is  six  feet 
long,  Benri’s  mother  in  the  place  of  honour  at  the  right, 
then  Shinondi,  then  the  sub-chief,  and  on  the  other  side 
the  old  men.  Besides  these,  seven  women  sat  in  a row 
in  the  background  splitting  bark.  A large  iron  pan 
hung  over  the  fire  from  a blackened  arrangement  above, 
and  Benri’s  principal  wife  cut  wild  roots,  green  beans, 
and  seaweed,  and  shred  dried  fish  and  venison  among 
them,  adding  millet,  water,  and  some  strong-smelling 
fish-oil,  and  set  the  whole  on  to  stew  for  tliree  hours, 
stirring  the  “ mess  ” now  and  then  with  a wooden  spoon. 

Several  of  the  older  people  smoke,  and  I handed 
round  some  mild  tobacco,  which  they  received  with 
waving  hands.  I told  them  that  I came  from  a land  in 
the  sea,  very  far  away,  where  they  saw  the  sun  go 
down,  so  very  far  away  that  a horse  would  have  to 
gallop  day  and  night  for  five  weeks  to  reach  it,  and  that 
I had  come  a long  journey  to  see  them,  and  that  I 
wanted  to  ask  them  many  questions,  so  that  when  1 
went  home  I might  tell  my  own  people  something  about 
them.  Shinondi  and  another  man,  who  understood 
Japanese,  bowed,  and  (as  on  every  occasion)  translated 
what  I said  into  Aino  for  the  venerable  group  opposite. 


58  UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 

Sliinondi  then  said  “ that  lie  and  Shinrichi,  the  other 
Japanese  speaker,  would  tell  me  all  they  knew,  but 
they  were  but  young  men,  and  only  knew  what  was 
told  to  them.  They  would  speak  what  they  believed 
to  be  true,  but  the  chief  knew  more  than  they,  and 
when  he  came  back  he  might  tell  me  differently,  and 
then  I should  think  that  they  had  spoken  lies.”  I said 
that  no  one  who  looked  into  their  faces  could  think  that 
they  ever  told  lies.  They  were  ver}^  much  pleased,  and 


SHINONDI  AXD  SHINRICHI. 


waved  their  hands  and  stroked  their  beards  repeatedly. 
Before  they  told  me  anything,  they  begged  and  prayed 
that  I would  not  inform  the  Japanese  Government  that 
they  had  told  me  of  their  customs,  or  harm  might  come 
to  them ! 

For  the  next  two  hours,  and  for  two  more  after  sup- 
per, I asked  them  questions  concerning  their  religion 
and  customs,  and  again  }^esterday  for  a considerable 
time,  and  this  morning,  after  Benri’s  return,  I went  over 
the  same  subjects  with  him,  and  have  also  employed  a 


LIBATIONS  TO  THE  GOBS, 


59 


considerable  time  in  getting  about  300  words  from  them, 
which  I have  spelt  phonetically  of  course,  and  intend  to 
go  over  again  when  I visit  the  coast  Ainosd 

The  process  was  slow,  as  both  question  and  answer 
had  to  pass  through  three  languages. . There  was  a very 
manifest  desire  to  tell  the  truth,  and  I think  that  their 
statements  concerning  their  few  and  simple  customs 
may  be  relied  upon.  I shall  give  what  they  told  me 
separately  when  I have  time  to  write  out  my  notes  in 
an  orderly  manner.  I can  only  say  that  I have  seldom 
spent  a more  interesting  evening. 

About  nine  the  stew  was  ready,  and  the  women 
ladled  it  into  lacquer  bowls  with  wooden  spoons.  The 
men  were  served  first,  but  all  ate  together.  Afterwards 
saJcS,  their  curse,  was  poured  into  lacquer  bowls,  and 
across  each  bowl  a finely-carved  “ sake-stick  ” was  laid. 
These  sticks  are  very  highly  prized.  The  bowls  were 
waved  several  times  with  an  inward  motion,  then  each 
man  took  his  stick  and,  dipping  it  into  the  sakS^  made 
six  libations  to  the  fire,  and  several  to  the  “god,”  a 
wooden  post,  with  a quantity  of  spiral  white  shavings 
falling  from  near  the  top.  The  Ainos  are  not  affected 
by  sake  nearly  so  easily  as  the  Japanese.  They  took  it 
cold,  it  is  true,  but  each  drank  about  three  times  as 
much  as  would  have  made  a Japanese  foolish,  and  it 
had  no  effect  upon  them.  After  two  hours  more  talk 
one  after  another  got  up  and  went  out,  making  profuse 

1 These  words  are  given  in  the  Appendix.  I went  over  them  with 
the  Ainos  of  a remote  village  on  Volcano  Bay,  and  found  the  differ- 
ences in  pronunciation  very  slight,  except  that  the  definiteness  of  the 
sound  which  I have  represented  by  Tsch  was  more  strongly  marked.  I 
afterwards  went  over  them  with  Mr.  Dening,  and  with  Mr.  Von  Sie- 
hold  at  Tokiyo,  who  have  made  a larger  collection  of  words  than  I have, 
and  it  is  satisfactory  to  find  that  we  have  represented  the  words  in  the 
main  hy  the  same  letters,  with  the  single  exception  that  usually  the 
sound  represented  hy  them  by  the  letters  c7i,  I have  given  as  Tsch,  and 
I venture  to  think  that  this  is  the  most  correct  rendering 


60 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


salututions  to  me  and  to  the  others.  My  candles  had 
been  forgotten,  and  our  seance  was  held  by  the  fitful 
light  of  the  big  logs  on  the  fire,  aided  by  a succession 
of  chips  of  birch  bark,  with  which  a woman  replenished 
a cleft  stick  that  was  stuck  into  the  fire-hole.  I never 
saw  such  a strangely  picturesque  sight  as  that  group  of 
magnificent  savages  with  the  fitful  firelight  on  their 
faces,  and  for  adjuncts  the  flare  of  the  torch,  the  strong 
lights,  the  blackness  of  the  recesses  of  the  room  and  of 
the  roof,  at  one  end  of  which  the  stars  looked  in,  and 
tlie  row  of  savage  women  in  the  background — eastern 
savagery,  and  western  civilisation  met  in  this  hut,  sav- 
agery  giving,  and  civilisation  receiving,  the  yellow- 
skinned Ito  the  connecting-link  between  the  two,  and 
the  representative  of  a civilisation  to  which  our  own  is 
but  an  “ infant  of  days.” 

I found  it  very  exciting,  and  when  all  had  left  crept 
out  into  the  starlight.  The  lodges  were  all  dark  and 
silent,  and  the  dogs,  mild  like  their  masters,  took  no 
notice  of  me.  The  only  sound  was  the  rustle  of  a light 
breeze  through  the  surrounding  forest.  The  verse  came 
into  my  mind,  “It  is  not  the  will  of  your  Father  which 
is  in  Heaven  that  one  of  these  little  ones  should  per- 
ish.” Surely  these  simple  savages  are  children,  as  chil- 
dren to  be  judged ; may  we  not  hope  as  children  to  be 
saved  through  Him  who  came  “ not  to  judge  the  world, 
but  to  save  the  world  ” ? 

I crept  back  again  and  into  my  mosquito  net,  and 
suffered  not  from  fleas  or  mosquitoes,  but  from  severe 
cold.  Shinondi  conversed  with  Ito  for  some  time  in  a 
low  musical  voice,  having  previously  asked  if  it  would 
keep  me  from  sleeping.  No  Japanese  ever  intermitted 
his  ceaseless  chatter  at  any  hour  of  the  night  for  a simi- 
lar reason.  Later,  the  chiefs  principal  wife,  Noma, 
stuck  a triply-cleft  stick  in  the  fire-hole,  put  a potsherd 


THE  CUIEF’S  WIFE. 


61 


with  a wick  and  some  fish-oil  upon  it,  and  by  the  dim 
light  of  this  rude  lamp  sewed  until  midnight  at  a gar- 
ment of  bark  cloth  which  she  was  ornamenting  for  her 
lord  with  strips  of  blue  cloth,  and  when  I opened  my 
eyes  the  next  morning  she  was  at  the  window  sewing 
by  the  earliest  daylight.  She  is  the  most  intelligent- 
looking  of  all  the  women,  but  looks  sad  and  almost 
stern,  and  speaks  seldom.  Although  she  is  the  princi- 
pal wife  of  the  chief,  she  is  not  happy,  for  she  is  child- 
less, and  I thought  that  her  sad  look  darkened  into 
something  evil  as  the  other  wife  caressed  a fine  baby 
boy.  Benri  seems  to  me  something  of  a brute,  and  the 
mother-in-law  obviously  holds  the  reins  of  government 
pretty  tight.  After  sewing  till  midnight  she  swept  the 
mats  with  a bunch  of  twigs,  and  then  crept  into  her 
bed  behind  a hanging  mat.  For  a moment  in  the  still- 
ness I felt  a feeling  of  panic,  as  if  I were  incurring  a 
risk  by  being  alone  among  savages,  but  I conquered  it, 
and  after  watching  the  fire  till  it  went  out,  fell  asleep 
till  I was  awoke  by  the  severe  cold  of  the  next  day’s 
dawn. 


62 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


AINO  HOSPITALITY. 

A Supposed  Act  of  Worship  — Parental  Tenderness  — Morning 
Visits  — Wretched  Cultivation  — Honesty  and  Generosity — A 
“ Dug-out  ” — Female  Occupations  — The  Ancient  Fate  — A New 
Arrival  — A Perilous  Prescription  — The  Shrine  of  Yoshitsune  — 
The  Chief’s  Keturn. 

When  I crept  from  under  my  net,  much  benumbed 
with  cold,  there  were  about  eleven  people  in  the  room, 
who  all  made  their  graceful  salutation.  It  did  not  seem 
as  if  they  had  ever  heard  of  washing,  for  when  water 
was  asked  for,  Shinondi  brought  a little  in  a lacquer 
bowl,  and  held  it  while  I bathed  my  face  and  hands, 
supposing  the  performance  to  be  an  act  of  worship! 
I was  about  to  throw  some  cold  tea  out  of  the  window 
by  my  bed,  when  he  arrested  me  with  an  anxious  face, 
and  I saw  what- 1 had  not  observed  before,  that  there 
was  a god  at  that  window,  a stick  with  festoons  of 
shavings  hanging  from  it,  and  beside  it  a dead  bird. 
The  Ainos  have  two  meals  a day,  and  their  breakfast 
was  a repetition  of  the  previous  night’s  supper.  We  all 
ate  together,  and  I gave  the  children  the  remains  of  my 
rice,  and  it  was  most  amusing  to  see  little  creatures  of 
three,  four,  and  five  years  old,  with  no  other  clothing 
than  a piece  of  pewter  hanging  round  their  necks,  first 
formally  asking  leave  of  the  parents  before  taking  the 
rice,  and  then  waving  their  hands.  The  obedience  of 
the  children  is  instantaneous.  Their  parents  are  more 
demonstrative  in  their  affection  than  the  Japanese  are, 


MOENING  VISITS. 


63 


caressing  them  a good  deal,  and  two  of  the  men  are 
devoted  to  children  who  are  not  their  own.  These 
little  ones  are  as  grave  and  dignified  as  Japanese 
children,  and  are  very  gentle. 

I went  out  soon  after  five,  when  the  dew  was  glitter- 
ing in  the  sunshine,  and  the  mountain  hollow  in  which 
Biratori  stands  was  looking  its  very  best,  and  the 
silence  of  the  place,  even  though  the  people  were  all 
astir,  was  as  impressive  as  that  of  the  night  before. 
What  a strange  life  ! knowing  nothing,  hoping  nothing, 
fearing  a little,  the  need  for  clothes  and  food  the 
one  motive  principle,  sake  m abundance  the  one  good ! 
How  very  few  points  of  contact  it  is  possible  to  have ! 
I was  just  thinking  so,  when  Shinondi  met  me,  and 
took  me  to  his  house  to  see  if  I could  do  anything  for 
a child  sorely  afflicted  with  skin  disease,  and  his  ex- 
treme tenderness  for  this  very  loathsome  object  made 
me  feel  that  human  affections  were  the  same  among 
them  as  with  us.  He  had  carried  it  on  his  back  from  a 
village,  five  miles  distant,  that  morning,  in  the  hope 
that  it  might  be  cured.  As  soon  as  I entered,  he  laid 
a fine  mat  on  the  floor,  and  covered  the  guest-seat  with 
a bearskin.  After  breakfast  he  took  me  to  the  lodge 
of  the  sub-chief,  the  largest  in  the  village,  45  feet 
square,  and  into  about  twenty  others  all  constructed 
in  the  same  way,  but  some  of  them  were  not  more  than 
20  feet  square.  In  all,  I was  received  with  the  same 
courtesy,  but  a few  of  the  people  asked  Shinondi  not  to 
take  me  into  their  houses,  as  they  did  not  want  me  to 
see  how  poor  they  are.  In  every  house  there  was  the 
low  shelf  with  more  or  few^r  curios  upon  it,  but  besides 
tliese,  none  but  the  barest  necessaries  of  life,  though 
the  skins  which  they  sell  or  barter  every  year  would 
enable  them  to  surround  themselves  with  comforts, 
were  it  not  that  their  gains  represent  to  them  sake  and 


64 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


nothing  else.  They  are  not  nomads.  On  the  contrary, 
they  cling  tenaciously  to  the  sites  on  which  their 
fathers  have  lived  and  died.  But  anything  more  de- 
plorable than  the  attempts  at  cultivation  which  sur- 
round their  lodges  could  not  be  seen.  The  soil  is  little 
better  than  white  sand,  on  which  without  manure  they 
attempt  to  grow  millet,  which  is  to  them  in  the  place 
of  rice,  pumpkins,  onions,  and  tobacco,  but  the  look  of 
their  plots  is  as  if  they  had  been  cultivated  ten  years 
ago,  and  some  chance-sown  grain  and  vegetables  had 
come  up  among  the  weeds.  When  nothing  more  will 
grow,  tliey  partially  clear  another  bit  of  forest,  and  ex- 
haust that  in  its  turn. 

In  every  house  the  same  honour  was  paid  to  a guest. 
This  seems  a savage  virtue  which  is  not  strong  enough 
to  survive  much  contact  with  civilisation.  Before  I 
entered  one  lodge,  the  woman  brought  several  of  the 
finer  mats,  and  arranged  them  as  a pathway  for  me  to 
walk  to  the  fire  upon.  They  will  not  accept  anything 
for  lodging,  or  for  anything  that  they  give,  so  I was 
anxious  to  help  them  by  buying  some  of  their  handi- 
work, but  found  even  this  a difficult  matter.  They 
were  very  anxious  to  give,  but  wlien  I desired  to  buy 
they  said  they  did  not  wish  to  part  witli  their  things. 
I wanted  what  they  had  in  actual  use,  such  as  a tobacco- 
box  and  pipe-sheath,  and  knives  with  carved  handles 
and  scabbards,  and  for  three  of  these  I offered  2^  dol- 
lars. They  said  they  did  not  care  to  sell  them,  but  in 
the  evening  they  came  saying  they  were  not  worth  more 
than  1 dollar  10  cents,  and  they  would  sell  them  for 
thjit;  and  I could  not  get  t^iem  to  take  more.  They 
said  it  was  “not  their  custom.”  I bought  a bow  and 
three  poisoned  arrows,  two  reed-mats,  with  a diamond 
pattern  on  them  in  reeds  stained  red,  some  knives  with 
sheaths,  and  a bark  cloth  dress.  I tried  to  buy  the 


A ‘‘DUG-OUT,’^ 


65 


sa/ce-sticks  with  which  they  make  libations  to  their  gods, 
but  they  said  it  was  “not  their  custom  ” to  part  with 
the  sa/ce-stick  of  any  living  man  — however,  this  morn- 
ing Shinondi  has  brought  me,  as  a very  valuable  present, 
the  stick  of  a dead  man ! This  morning  the  man  who 
sold  the  arrows  brought  two  new  ones,  to  replace  two 
which  were  imperfect.  I found  them,  as  j\Ir.  Von  Sie- 
bold  had  done,  punctiliously  honest  in  all  their  transac- 
tions. They  wear  very  large  earrings  with  hoops  an 
inch  and  a half  in  diameter,  a pair  constituting  the 
dowry  of  an  Aino  bride,  but  they  would  not  part  with 
these. 

A house  was  burned  down  two  nights  ago,  and 
“custom”  in  such  a case  requires  that  all  the  men 
should  work  at  rebuilding  it,  so  in  their  absence  I got 
two  bo}^s  to  take  me  in  a “ dug-out  ” as  far  as  we  could 
go  up  the  SarufutogaAva,  a lovely  river,  which  Avinds 
tortuously  through  the  forests  and  mountains  in  un- 
speakable loveliness.  I had  much  of  the  feeling  of  the 
ancient  mariner  — 

“We  were  the  first 
Who  ever  burst 

Into  that  silent  sea.” 

For  certainly  no  European  had  ever  previously  floated 
on  the  dark  and  forest-shrouded  waters.  I enjoyed 
those  hours  thoroughly,  for  the  silence  Avas  profound, 
and  the  faint  blue  of  the  autumn  sky,  and  the  soft  blue 
veil  Avhich  “ spiritualised  ” the  distances,  were  so  exquis- 
itely like  the  Indian  summer. 

The  evening  was  spent  like  the  previous  one,  but  the 
hearts  of  the  savages  Avere  sad,  for  there  was  no  more 
sake  in  Biratori,  so  they  could  not  “ drink  to  the  god,” 
and  the  fire  and  the  post  Avith  the  shavings  had  to  go 
Avithout  libations.  There  Avas  no  more  oil,  so  after  the 
strangers  retired  the  hut  Avas  in  complete  darkness. 


66 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


Yesterday  morning  we  all  breakfasted  soon  after  day- 
light, and  the  able-bodied  men  went  away  to  hunt. 
Hunting  and  fishing  are  their  occupations,  and  for 
“indoor  recreation”  they  carve  tobacco-boxes,  knife- 
sheaths,  sa^e-sticks,  and  shuttles.  It  is  quite  unneces- 


AINO  STOBE-HOUSE. 


sary  for  them  to  do  anything ; they  are  quite  contented 
to  sit  by  the  fire,  and  smoke  occasionally,  and  eat  and 
sleep,  this  apathy  being  varied  by  spasms  of  activity 
when  there  is  no  more  dried  flesh  in  the  kuras.^  and 
when  skins  must  be  taken  to  Sarufuto  to  pay  for  sakS, 
The  women  seem  never  to  have  an  idle  moment.  They 


THE  ANCIENT  FATE. 


67 


rise  early  to  sew,  weave,  and  split  bark,  for  they  not 
only  clothe  themselves  and  their  husbands  in  this 
nearly  indestructible  cloth,  but  weave  it  for  barter, 
and  the  lower  class  of  Japanese  are  constantly  to  be 
seen  wearing  the  product  of  Aino  industry.  They  do 
all  the  hard  work,  such  as  drawing  water,  chopping 
wood,  grinding  millet,  and  cultivating  the  soil,  after 
their  fashion;  but  to  do  the  men  justice,  I often  see 
them  trudging  along,  carrying  one  and  even  two  chil- 
dren. The  women  take  the  exclusive  charge  of  the 
kuras^  which  are  never  entered  by  men. 

I was  left  for  some  hours  alone  with  the  women,  of 
whom  there  were  seven  in  the  hut,  with  a few  children. 
On  the  one  side  of  the  fire  the  chiefs  mother  sat  like  a 
Fate,  for  ever  splitting  and  knotting  bark,  and  petrify- 
ing me  by  her  cold,  fateful  eyes.  Her  thick,  grey  hair 
hangs  in  shocks,  the  tattooing  round  her  mouth  has 
nearly  faded,  and  no  longer  disguises  her  really  hand- 
some features.  She  is  dressed  in  a much  ornamented 
bark-cloth  dress,  and  wears  two  silver  beads  tied  round 
her  neck  by  a piece  of  blue  cotton,  in  addition  to  very 
large  earrings.  She  has  much  sway  in  the  house,  sit- 
ting on  the  men’s  side  of  the  fire,  drinking  plenty  of 
sake.,  and  occasionally  chiding  her  grandson  Shinondi  for 
telling  me  too  much,  saying  that  it  will  bring  harm  to 
her  people.  Though  her  expression  is  so  severe  and 
forbidding,  she  is  certainly  very  handsome,  and  it  is  a 
European,  not  an  Asiatic,  beauty. 

The  younger  women  were  all  at  work;  two  were 
seated  on  the  floor  weaving  without  a loom,  and  the 
others  were  making  and  mending  the  bark  coats  which 
are  worn  by  both  sexes.  Noma,  the  chiefs  principal 
wife,  sat  apart,  seldom  speaking.  Two  of  the  youngest 
women  are  very  pretty  — as  fair  as  ourselves,  and  their 
comeliness  is  of  the  rosy,  peasant  kind.  It  turns  out 


68 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


that  two  of  them,  though  they  would  not  divulge  it 
before  men,  speak  Japanese,  and  they  prattled  to  Ito 
with  great  vivacity  and  merriment;  the  ancient  Fate 
scowling  at  them  the  while  from  under  her  shaggy  eye- 
brows. I got  a number  of  words  from  them,’  and  they 
lauglied  heartily  at  my  erroneous  pronunciation.  They 
even  asked  me  a number  of  questions  regarding  their 
own  sex  among  ourselves,  but  few  of  these  would  bear 
repetition,  and  they  answered  a number  of  mine.  As 
the  merriment  increased  the  old  woman  looked  increas- 
ingly angry  and  restless,  and  at  last  rated  them  sharply, 
as  I have  heard  since,  telling  them  that,  if  they  spoke 
another  word,  she  should  tell  their  husbands  that  they 
had  been  talking  to  strangers.  After  this  not  another 
word  was  spoken,  and  Noma,  who  is  an  industrious 
housewife,  boiled  some  millet  into  a mash  for  a mid-day 
lunch.  During  the  afternoon  a very  handsome  young 
Aino,  with  a washed,  richly-coloured  skin  and  fine  clear 
e}^es,  came  up  from  the  coast,  where  he  had  been  work- 
ing at  the  fishing.  He  saluted  the  old  woman  and 
Benri’s  wife  on  entering,  and  presented  the  former  with 
a gourd  of  sake.,  bringing  a greedy  light  into  her  eyes 
as  she  took  a long  draught,  after  which,  saluting  me,  he 
threw  himself  down  in  the  place  of  honour  by  the  fire, 
with  the  easy  grace  of  a staghound,  a savage  all  over. 
His  name  is  Pipichari,  and  he  is  the  chiefs  adopted  son. 
He  had  cut  his  foot  badly  with  a root,  and  asked  me  to 
cure  it,  and  I stipulated  that  it  should  be  bathed  for  some 
time  ill  warm  water  before  anything  more  was  done, 
after  which  I bandaged  it  with  lint.  He  said  “ he  did 
not  like  me  to  touch  his  foot,  it  was  not  clean  enough, 
my  hands  were  too  white,”  etc. ; but  when  I had  dressed 
it,  and  the  pain  was  much  relieved,  he  bowed  very  low 
and  then  kissed  my  hand  ! He  was  the  only  one  among 
them  all  who  showed  the  slightest  curiosity  regarding 


A NEW  ARRIVAL. 


69 


my  things.  He  looked  at  my  scissors,  touched  my  boots, 
and  watched  me,  as  I wrote,  with  the  simple  curiosity 
of  a child.  Pie  could  speak  a little  Japanese,  but  he 
said  he  was  “ too  young  to  tell  me  anything,  the  older 
men  would  know.”  He  is  a “ total  abstainer  ” from 
sake^  and  he  says  that  there  are  four  such  besides  him- 
self among  the  large  number  of  Ainos  who  are  just  now 
at  the  fishing  at  Mombets,  and  that  the  others  keep 
separate  from  them,  because  they  think  that  the  gods 
will  be  angry  with  them  for  not  drinking. 

Several  “patients,”  mostly  children,  were  brought  in 
during  the  afternoon.  Ito  was  much  disgusted  by  my 
interest  in  these  people,  who,  he  repeated,  “are  just 
dogs ; ” referring  to  their  legendary  origin,  of  which 
they  are  not  ashamed.  His  assertion  that  they  have 
learned  politeness  from  the  Japanese,  is  simply  base- 
less. Their  politeness,  though  of  quite  another  and 
more  manly  stamp,  is  savage,  not  civilised.  The  men 
came  back  at  dark,  the  meal  was  prepared,  and  we  sat 
round  the  fire  as  before ; but  there  was  no  sakS.,  except 
in  the  possession  of  the  old  woman;  and  again  the 
hearts  of  the  savages  were  sad.  I could  multiply 
instances  of  their  politeness.  As  we  were  talking, 
Pipichari,  who  is  a very  “ untutored  ” savage,  dropped 
his  coat  from  one  shoulder,  and  at  once  Shinondi  signed 
to  him  to  put  it  on  again.  Again,  a woman  was  sent 
to  a distant  village  for  some  oil,  as  soon  as  they  heard 
that  I usually  burned  a light  all  night.  Little  acts  of 
courtesy  were  constantly  being  performed  ; but  I really 
appreciated  nothing  more  than  the  quiet  way  .in  which 
they  went  on  with  the  routine  of  their  ordinary  lives. 

During  the  evening  a man  came  to  ask  if  I would  go 
and  see  a woman  who  could  hardly  breathe ; and  I 
found  her  very  ill  of  bronchitis,  accompanied  'with  much 
fever.  She  was  lying  in  a coat  of  skins,  tossing  on 


70 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


the  hard  boards  of  her  bed,  with  a matting-covered  roll 
under  her  head,  and  her  husband  was  trying  to  make 
her  swallow  some  salt  fish.  I took  her  dry,  hot  hand, 
such  a small  hand,  tattooed  all  over  the  back ; and  it 
gave  me  a strange  thrill.  The  room  was  full  of  people, 
and  they  all  seemed  very  sorry.  A medical  missionary 
would  be  of  little  use  here ; but  a medically-trained 
nurse,  who  would  give  medicines  and  proper  food, 
with  proper  nursing,  would  save  many  lives  and  much 
suffering.  It  is  of  no  use  to  tell  these  people  to  do 
anything  which  requires  to  be  done  more  than  once : 
they  are  just  like  children.  I gave  her  some  chloro- 
dyne,  which  she  swallowed  with  difficulty,  and  left 
another  dose  ready  mixed,  to  give  her  in  a few  hours ; 
but  about  midnight  they  came  to  tell  me  that  she 
was  worse ; and  on  going  I found  her  very  cold  and 
weak,  and  breathing  very  hard,  moving  her  head 
wearily  from  side  to  side.  I thought  she  could  not 
live  for  many  hours,  and  was  much  afraid  that  they 
would  think  that  I had  killed  her.  I told  them  that 
I thought  she  would  die  ; but  they  urged  me  to  do 
something  more  for  her  ; and  as  a last  hope  I gave  her 
some  brandy,  with  twenty-five  drops  of  chlorodyne, 
and  a few  spoonfuls  of  very  strong  beef-tea.  She  was 
unable,  or  more  probably  unwilling,  to  make  the  effort 
to  swallow  it,  and  I poured  it  down  her  throat  by  the 
wild  glare  of  strips  of  birch  bark.  An  hour  later  they 
came  back  to  tell  me  that  she  felt  as  if  she  was  very 
drunk ; but  going  back  to  her  house,  I found  that  she 
was  sleeping  quietly,  and  breathing  more  easily;  afid 
creeping  back  just  at  dawn,  I found  her  still  sleeping, 
and  with  her  pulse  stronger  and  calmer.  She  is  now 
decidedly  better,  and  quite  sensible,  and  her  husband, 
the  sub-chief,  is  much  delighted.  It  seems  so  sad  that 
they  have  nothing  fit  for  a sick  person’s  food  ; and 


FEAR  OF  THE  JAPANESE  GOVERNMENT.  71 


though  I have  made  a bowl  of  beef-tea  with  the 
remains  of  my  stock,  it  can  only  last  one  day. 

I was  so  tired  with  these  nocturnal  expeditions  and 
anxieties,  that  on  lying  down  I fell  asleep,  and  on  wak- 
ing found  more  than  the  usual  assemblage  in  the  room, 
,and  the  men  were  obviously  agog  about  something. 
They  have  a singular,  and  I hope  an  unreasonable, 
fear  of  the  Japanese  Government.  Mr.  Von  Siebold 
thinks  that  the  officials  threaten  and  knock  them 
about ; and  this  is  possible ; but  I really  think  that 
the  KaitaikusJii  Department  means  well  by  them,  and, 
besides  removing  the  oppressive  restrictions  by  which, 
as  a conquered  race,  they  were  fettered,  treats  them 
far  more  humanely  and  equitably  than  the  U.  S.  Gov- 
ernment, for  instance,  treats  the  North  American 
Indians.  However,  they  are  ignorant ; and  one  of 
the  men  who  had  been  most  grateful  because  I said 
I would  get  Dr.  Hepburn  to  send  some  medicine  for 
his  child,  came  this  morning  and  begged  me  not  to  do 
so,  as,  he  said,  “the  Japanese  Government  would  be 
angry.”  After  this  they  again  prayed  me  not  to  tell 
the  Japanese  Government  that  they  had  told  me  their 
customs;  and  then  they  began  to  talk  earnestly  to- 
gether. 

The  sub-chief  then  spoke,  and  said  that  I had  been 
kind  to  their  sick  people,  and  they  would  like  to  show 
me  their  temple,  which  had  never  been  seen  by  any 
foreigner  ; but  they  were  very  much  afraid  of  doing  so, 
and  they  asked  me  many  times  “not  to  tell  the  Japan- 
ese Government  that  they  showed  it  to  me,  lest  some 
great  harm  should  happen  to  them.”  The  sub-chief 
put  on  a sleeveless  Japanese  war-cloak  to  go  up,  and 
he,  Shinondi,  Pipichari,  and  two  others  accompanied 
me.  It  was  a beautiful  but  very  steep  walk,  or  rather 
climb,  to  the  top  of  an  abrupt  acclivity  beyond  the 


72 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


village,  on  which  the  temple  or  shrine  stands.  It 
would  be  impossible  to  get  up,  were  it  not  for  the 
remains  of  a wooden  staircase,  not  of  Aino  construc- 
tion. Forest  and  mountain  surround  Biratori,  and  the 
only  breaks  in  the  dense  greenery  are  glints  of  the 
shining  waters  of  the  Sarufutogawa,  and  the  tawny  roofs 
of  the  Aino  lodges.  It  is  a lonely  and  a silent  land,  fitter 
for  the  hiding  place  than  the  dwelling  place  of  men. 

When  the  splendid  young  savage,  Pipichari,  saw 
that  I found  it  difficult  to  get  up,  he  took  my  hand 
and  helped  me  up,  as  gently  as  an  English  gentleman 
would  have  done ; and  when  he  saw  that  I had  greater 
difficulty  in  getting  down,  he  all  but  insisted  on  my 
riding  down  on  his  back,  and  certainly  would  have 
carried  me,  had  not  Benri,  the  chief,  who  arrived  while 
we  were  at  the  shrine,  made  an  end  of  it" by  taking  my 
hand  and  helping  me  down  himself.  Their  instinct  of 
helpfulness  to  a foreign  woman  strikes  me  as  so  odd, 
because  they  never  show  any  courtesy  to  their  own 
women,  whom  they  treat  (though  to  a less  extent  than 
is  usual  among  savages)  as  inferior  beings. 

On  the  very  edge  of  the  cliff,  at  the  top  of  the  zigzag, 
stands  a wooden  temple  or  shrine,  such  as  one  sees  in 
any  grove,  or  on  any  high  place  on  the  main  island, 
obviously  of  Japanese  construction,  but  concerning 
which  Aino  tradition  is  silent.  No  European  had  ever 
stood  where  I stood,  and  there  was  a solemnity  in  the 
knowledge.  The  sub-chief  drew  back  the  sliding  doors, 
and  all  bowed  with  much  reverence.  It  was  a simple 
shrine  of  unlacquered  wood,  with  a broad  shelf  at  the 
back,  on  which  there  was  a small  shrine  containing  a 
figure  of  the  historical  hero  Yoshitsund,  in  a suit  of  in- 
laid brass  armour,  some  metal  gohei^  a pair  of  tarnished 
brass  candlesticks,  and  a coloured  Chinese  picture  repre- 
senting a junk.  Here,  then,  I was  introduced  to  the 


THE  CUIEF’S  BETURN. 


73 


great  god  of  the  mountain  Ainos.  There  is  something 
very  pathetic  in  these  people  keeping  alive  the  memory 
of  Yoshitsund,  not  on  account  of  his  martial  exploits, 
but  simply  because  their  tradition  tells  them  that  he 
was  kind  to  them.  They  pulled  the  bell  three  times 
to  attract  his  attention,  bowed  three  times,  and  made 
six  libations  of  sahe^  without  which  ceremony  he  can- 
not be  approached.  They  asked  me  to  worship  their 
god,  but  when  I declined  on  the  ground  that  I could 
only  worship  my  own  God,  the  Lord  of  Earth  and 
Heaven,  of  the  dead  and  of  the  living,  they  were  too 
courteous  to  press  their  request.  As  to  Ito,  it  did  not 
signify  to  him  whether  or  not  he  added  another  god  to 
his  already  crowded  Pantheon,  and  he  “ worshipped,” 
i.e.  bowed  down,  most  willingly  before  the  great  hero 
of  his  own,  the  conquering  race. 

While  we  were  crowded  there  on  the  narrow  ledge  of 
the  cliff,  Benri,  the  chief,  arrived,  a square-built,  broad- 
shouldered,  elderly  man,  strong  as  an  ox,  and  very 
handsome,  but  his  expression  is  not  pleasing,  and  his 
eyes  are  bloodshot  with  drinking.  The  others  saluted 
him  very  respectfully,  but  I noticed  then  and  since 
that  his  manner  is  very  arbitrary,  and  that  a blow  not 
infrequently  follows  a word.  He  had  sent  a message 
to  his  people  by  Ito  that  they  were  not  to  answer  any 
questions  till  he  returned,  but  Ito  very  tactfully  neither 
gave  it  nor  told  me  of  it,  and  he  was  displeased  with 
the  young  men  for  having  talked  to  me  so  much.  His 
mother  had  evidently  “ peached.”  I like  him  less  than 
any  of  his  tribe.  He  has  some  fine  qualities,  truthful- 
ness among  others,  but  he  has  been  contaminated  by 
the  four  or  five  foreigners  that  he  has  seen,  and  is  a 
brute  and  a sot.  The  hearts  of  his  people  are  no  longer 
sad,  for  there  is  sakS  in  every  house  to-night. 


I.  L.  B. 


74 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


SAVAGE  LIFE. 

Barrenness  of  Savage  Life  — Irreclaimable  Savages  — The  Aino  Phy- 
sique  — Female  Comeliness  — Torture  and  Ornament  — Child  Life 
— Docility  and  Obedience. 

Blratori,  Yezo,  August  24. 

I EXPECTED  to  have  written  out  my  notes  on  the 
Ainos  in  the  comparative  quiet  and  comfort  of  Sarufuto, 
but  the  delay  in  Benri’s  return,  and  the  non-arrival  of 
the  horses,  have  compelled  me  to  accept  Aino  hospital- 
ity for  another  night,  which  involves  living  on  tea  and 
potatoes,  for  my  stock  of  food  is  exhausted.  In  some 
respects  I am  glad  to  remain  longer,  as  it  enables  me  to 
go  over  my  stock  of  words,  as  well  as  my  notes,  with 
the  chief,  who  is  intelligent,  and  it  is  a pleasure  to  find 
that  his  statements  confirm  those  which  have  been  made 
by  the  young  men.  The  glamour  which  at  first  dis- 
guises the  inherent  barrenness  of  savage  life  has  had 
time  to  pass  away,  and  I see  it  in  all  its  nakedness  as 
a life  not  much  raised  above  the  necessities  of  animal 
existence,  timid,  monotonous,  barren  of  good,  dark, 
dull,  “ without  hope,  and  without  God  in  the  world ; ” 
though  at  its  lowest  and  worst  considerably  higher  and 
better  than  that  of  many  other  aboriginal  races,  and, 
must  I say  it  ? considerably  higher  and  better  than  that 
of  thousands  of  the  lapsed  masses  of  our  own  great 
cities,  who  are  baptized  into  Christ’s  name,  and  are  laid 
at  last  in  holy  ground,  inasmuch  as  the  Ainos  are  truth- 
ful, and,  on  the  whole,  chaste,  hospitable,  honest,  rever- 


IBBECLAIMABLE  SA  VA GES. 


75 


ent,  and  kind  to  the  aged.  Drinking,  their  great  vice, 
is  not,  as  among  us,  in  antagonism  to  their  religion,  but 
is  actually  a part  of  it,  and  as  such  would  be  exception- 
al ly  difficult  to  eradicate. 

The  early  darkness  has  once  again  come  on,  and  once 
again  the  elders  have  assembled  round  the  fire  in  two 
long  lines,  with  the  younger  men  at  the  ends,  Pipichari, 
who  yesterday  sat  in  the  place  of  honour,  and  was  helped 
to  food  first  as  the  newest  arrival,  taking  his  place  as  the 
youngest  at  the  end  of  the  right-hand  row.  The  birch- 
bark  chips  beam  with  fitful  gl&re,  the  evening  sake  bowls 
are  filled,  the  fire-god  and  the  garlanded  god  receive 
their  libations,  the  ancient  woman,  still  sitting  like  a 
Fate,  splits  bark,  and  the  younger  women  knot  it,  and 
the  log-fire  lights  up  as  magnificent  a set  of  venerable 
heads  as  painter  or  sculptor  would  desire  to  see, — 
heads,  full  of,  — what?  They  have  no  history,  their 
traditions  are  scarcely  worthy  the  name,  they  claim 
descent  from  a dog,  their  houses  and  persons  swarm 
with  vermin,  they  are  sunk  in  the  grossest  ignorance, 
they  have  no  letters,  or  any  numbers  above  a thousand, 
they  are  clothed  in  the  bark  of  trees  and  the  untanned 
skins  of  beasts,  they  worship  the  bear,  the  sun,  moon, 
fire,  water,  and  I know  not  what,  they  are  uncivilisable 
and  altogether  irreclaimable  savages,  yet  they  are  at- 
tractive, and  in  some  ways  fascinating,  and  I hope  I 
shall  never  forget  the  music  of  their  low,  sweet  voices, 
the  soft  light  of  their  mild,  brown  eyes,  and  the  won- 
derful sweetness  of  their  smile. 

After  the  yellow  skins,  the  stiff  horse  hair,  the  feeble 
eyelids,  -the  elongated  eyes,  the  sloping  eyebrows,  the 
flat  noses,  the  sunken  chests,  the  Mongolian  features, 
the  puny  physique^  the  shaky  walk  of  the  men,  the  re- 
si  ricted  totter  of  the  women,  and  the  general  impres- 
sion of  degeneracy  conveyed  by  the  appearance  of  the 


76  UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 

Japanese,  the  Ainos  make  a very  singular  impression. 
All  but  two  or  three  that  I have  seen  are  the  most 
ferocious-looking  of  savages,  with  a physique  vigorous 
enough  for  carrying  out  the  most  ferocious  intentions, 
but  as  soon  as  they  speak  the  countenance  brightens 
into  a smile  as  gentle  as  that  of  a woman,  something 
which  can  never  be  forgotten. 

The  men  are  about  the  middle  height,  broad-chested, 
broad-shouldered,  “ thick  set,”  very  strongly  built,  the 
arms  and  legs  short,  thick,  and  muscular,  the  hands  and 
feet  large.  The  bodies,  and  specially  the  limbs,  of  many 
are  covered  with  short  bristly  hair.  I have  seen  two 
boys  whose  backs  are  covered  mth  fur  as  fine  and  soft 
as  that  of  a cat.  The  heads  and  faces  are  very  strik- 
ing. The  foreheads  are  very  high,  broad,  and  prominent, 
and  at  first  sight  give  one  the  impression  of  an  unusual 
capacity  for  intellectual  development ; the  ears  are 
small  and  set  low ; the  noses  are  straight  but  short,  and 
broad  at  the  nostrils ; the  mouths  are  wide  but  well 
formed ; and  the  lips  rarely  show  a tendency  to  fulness. 
The  neck  is  short,  the  cranium  rounded,  the  cheek-bones 
low,  and  the  lower  part  of  the  face  is  small  as  compared 
with  the  upper,  the  peculiarity  called  a “jowl”  being 
unknown.  The  eyebrows  are  full,  and  form  a straight 
line  nearly  across  the  face.  The  eyes  are  large,  tolera- 
bly deeply  set,  and  very  beautiful,  the  colour  a rich 
liquid  brown,  the  expression  singularly  soft,  and  the 
eyelashes  long,  silky,  and  abundant.  The  skin  has  the 
Italian  olive  tint,  but  in  most  cases  is  thin,  and  light 
enough  to  show  the  changes  of , colour  in  the  cheek. 
The  teeth  are  small,  regular,  and  very  white ; the  inci- 
sors and  “ eye  teeth  ” are  not  disproportionately  large, 
as  is  usually  the  case  among  the  J apanese  ; there  is  no 
tendency  towards  prognathism  ; and  the  fold  of  integu- 
ment which  conceals  the  upper  eyelids  of  the  Japanese 


THE  AINO  PHYSIQUE, 


11 


is  never  to  be  met  with.  The  features,  expression,  and 
aspect,  are  European  rather  than  Asiatic. 

The  “ ferocious  savagery  ” of  the  appearance  of  the 
men  is  produced  by  a profusion  of  thick,  soft,  black 


AN  AINO  PATRIARCH. 


hair,  divided  in  the  middle,  and  falling  in  heavy  masses 
nearly  to  the  shoulders.  Out  of  doors  it  is  kept  from 
falling  over  the  face  by  a fillet  round  the  brow.  The 
beards  are  equally  profuse,  quite  magnificent,  and  gen- 
erally wavy,  and  in  the  case  of  the  old  men  they  give  a 
truly  patriarchal  and  venerable  aspect,  in  spite  of  the 


78 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


yellow  tinge  produced  by  smoke  and  want  of  cleanli- 
ness. The  savage  lopk  produced  by  the  masses  of  hair 
and  beard,  and  the  thick  eyebrows,  is  mitigated  by  the 
softness  in  the  dreamy  brown  eyes,  and  is  altogether 
ol)literated  by  the  exceeding  sweetness  of  the  smile, 
which  belongs  in  greater  or  less  degree  to  all  the 
rougher  sex. 

I have  measured  the  height  of  thirty  of  the  adult 
men  of  this  village,  and  it  ranges  from  5 feet  4 inches 
to  five  feet  6^  inches.  The  circumference  of  the  heads 
averages  22.1  inches,  and  the  arc,  from  ear  to  ear,  13 
inches.  According  to  Mr.  Davies,  the  average  weight 
of  the  Aino  adult  masculine  brain,  ascertained  by  meas- 
urement of  Aino  skulls,  is  45.90  ounces  avoirdupois,  a 
brain  weight  said  to  exceed  that  of  all  the  races,  Hin- 
doo and  Mussulman,  on  the  Indian  plains,  and  that  of 
the  aboriginal  races  of  India  and  Ceylon,  and  is  only 
paralleled  by  that  of  the  races  of  the  Himalayas,  the 
Siamese,  and  the  Chinese  Burmese.  Mr.  Davies  says, 
further,  that  it  exceeds  the  mean  brain  weight  of  Asi- 
atic races  in  general.  Yet  with  all  this  the  Ainos  are  a 
stupid  people. 

Passing  travellers  who  have  seen  a few  of  the  Aino 
women  on  the  road  to  Satsuporo  speak  of  them  as  very 
ugly,  but  as  making  amends  for  their  ugliness  by  their 
industry  and  conjugal  fidelity.  Of  the  latter  there  is 
no  doubt,  but  I am  not  disposed  to  admit  the  foriner. 
The  ugliness  is  certainly  due  to  art  and  dirt.  The  Aino 
women  seldom  exceed  five  feet  and  half  an  inch  in 
height,  but  they  are  beautifully  formed,  straight,  lithe, 
and  well-developed,  with  small  feet  and  hands,  well- 
arched  insteps,  rounded  iimbs,  well-developed  busts, 
and  a firm,  elastic  gait.  Their  heads  and  faces  are 
small ; but  the  hair,  which  falls  in  masses  on  each  side 
of  the  face  like  that  of  the  men,  is  equally  redundant. 


TOBTURE  AND  ORNAMENT. 


79 


They  have  superb  teeth,  and  display  them  liberally  in 
smiling.  Their  mouths  are  somewhat  wide,  but  well 
formed,  and  they  have  a ruddy  comeliness  about  them 
which  is  pleasing,  in  spite  of  the  disfigurement  of  the 
band  which  is  tattooed  both  above  and  below  the 
mouth,  and  which,  by  being  united  at  the  corners,  en- 
larges its  apparent  size  and  width. 

A girl  at  Shir6ai,  who,  for  some 
reason,  lias  not  been  subjected  to 
this  process,  is  the  most  beautiful 
creature  in  features,  colouring,  and 
natural  grace  of  form,  that  I have 
seen  for  a long  time.  Their  com- 
plexions are  lighter  than  those  of 
the  men.  There  are  not  many  here 
even  as  dark  as  our  European  bru- 
nettes. A few  unite  the  eyebrows 
by  a streak  of  tattooing,  so  as  to 
produce  a straight  line.  Like  the 
men,  they  cut  their  hair  short  for 
two  or  three  inches  above  the  nape 
of  the  neck,  but  instead  of  using  a 
fillet  they  take  two  locks  fi*om  the 
front  and  tie  them  at  the  back. 

They  are  universally  tattooed,  not 
only  with  the  broad  band  above  and 
below  the  mouth,  but  with  a band 
across  the  knuckles,  succeeded  by  tattooed  female  hand. 
an  elaborate  pattern  on  the  back  of 
the  hand,  and  a series  of  bracelets  extending  to  the 
elbow.  The  process  of  disfigurement  begins  at  the  age 
of  five,  when  some  of  the  sufferers  are  yet  unweaned. 
I saw  the  operation  performed  on  a dear  little  bright  girl 
this  morning.  A woman  took  a large  knife  with  a sharp 
edge,  and  rapidly  cut  several  horizontal  lines  on  the  up- 


80 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


per  lip,  following  closely  the  curve  of  the  very  pretty 
mouth,  and  before  the  slight  bleeding  had  ceased  care- 
fully rubbed  in  some  of  the  shiny  soot  which  collects  on 
the  mat  above  tlie  fire.  In  two  or  three  days  the  scarred 
lip  will  be  washed  with  the  decoction  of  the  bark  of  a 
tree  to  fix  the  pattern,  and  give  it  that  blue  look  which 
makes  many  people  mistake  it  for  a daub  of  paint.  A 
child  who  had  this  second  process  performed  yesterday 
has  her  lip  fearfully  swollen  and  inflamed.  The  latest 
victim  held  her  hands  clasped  tightly  together  while 
the  cuts  were  inflicted,  but  never  cried.  The  pattern 
on  the  lips  is  deepened  and  widened  every  year  up  to 
the  time  of  marriage,  and  the  circles  on  the  arm  are  ex- 
tended in  a similar  way.  The  men  cannot  give  any 
reason  for  the  universality  of  this  custom.  It  is  an  old 
custom,  they  say,  and  part  of  their  religion,  and  no 
woman  could  marry  without  it.  Benri  fancies  that  the 
Japanese  custom  of  blackening  the  teeth  is  equivalent 
to  it ; but  he  is  mistaken,  as  that  ceremony  usually  suc- 
ceeds marriage.  They  begin  to  tattoo  the  arms  when  a 
gu’l  is  five  or  six,  and  work  from  the  elbow  downwards. 
They  expressed  themselves  as  very  much  grieved  and 
tormented  by  the  recent  prohibition  of  tattooing.  They 
say  the  gods  will  be  angry,  and  that  the  women  can’t 
marry  unless  they  are  tattooed  ; and  they  implored  both 
]\Ir.  Von  Siebold  and  me  to  intercede  with  the  Japanese 
Government  on  their  behalf  in  this  respect.  They  are 
less  apathetic  on  this  than  on  any  subject,  and  repeat 
frequently,  “ It’s  a part  of  our  religion.” 

The  children  are  very  pretty  and  attractive,  and  their 
faces  give  promise  of  an  intelligence  which  is  lacking 
in  those  of  the  adults.  They  are  much  loved,  and  are 
caressing  as  well  as  caressed.  The  infants  of  the 
mountain  Ainos  have  seeds  of  millet  put  into  theii 
mouths  as  soon  as  they  are  born,  and  those  of  the  coast 


DOCILITY  AND  OBEDIENCE. 


81 


Ainos  a morsel  of  salt  fish ; and  whatever  be  the  hour 
of  birth,  “ custom  ” requires  that  they  shall  not  be  fed 
until  a night  has  passed.  They  are  not  weaned  until 
they  are  at  least  three  years  old.  Boys  are  preferred  to 
girls,  but  both  are  highly  valued,  and  a childless  wife 
may  be  divorced.  Children  do  not  receive  names  till 
they  are  four  or  five  years  old,  and  then  the  father 
chooses  a name  by  which  his  child  is  afterwards  known. 
Young  children  when  they  travel  are  either  carried  on 
their  mothers’  backs  in  a net,  or  in  the  back  of  the 
loose  garment ; but  in  both  cases  the  weight  is  mainly 
supported  by  a broad  band  which  passes  round  the 
woman’s  forehead.  When  men  carry  them  they  hold 
them  in  their  arms.  The  hair  of  very  young  children 
is  shaven,  and  from  about  five  to  fifteen  the  boys  wear 
either  a large  tonsure  or  tufts  above  the  ears,  while  the 
girls  are  allowed  to  grow  hair  all  over  their  heads. 

Implicit  and  prompt  obedience  is  required  from  in- 
fancy ; and  from  a very  early  age  the  children  are  util- 
ised by  being  made  to  fetch  and  carry  and  go  on  mes- 
sages. I have  seen  children  apparently  not  more  than 
two  years  old  sent  for  wood ; and  even  at  this  age  they 
are  so  thoroughly  trained  in  the  observances  of  eti- 
quette, that  babies  just  able  to  walk  never  toddle  into 
or  out  of  this  house  without  formal  salutations  to  each 
person  within  it,  the  mother  alone  excepted.  They 
don’t  wear  any  clothing  till  they  are  seven  or  eight 
years  old,  and  are  then  dressed  like  their  elders.  Their 
manners  to  their  parents  are  very  affectionate.  Even 
to-day,  in  the  chiefs  awe-inspiring  presence,  one  dear 
little  nude  creature,  who  had  been  sitting  quietly  for 
two  hours  staring  into  the  fire  with  her  big  brown  eyes, 
rushed  to  meet  her  mother  when  she  entered,  and  threw 
her  arms  round  her,  to  which  the  woman  responded  by 
a look  of  true  maternal  tenderness  and  a kiss.  These 


82 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


little  creatures,  in  the  absolute  unconsciousness  of  inno- 
cence, with  their  beautiful  faces,  olive-tinted  bodies,  — 
all  the  darker,  sad  to  say,  from  dirt  — their  perfect 
docility,  and  absence  of  prying  curiosity,  are  very  be- 
witching. They  all  wear  silver  or  pewter  ornaments 
tied  round  their  necks  by  a wisp  of  blue  cotton. 

Apparently  the  ordinary  infantile  maladies,  such  as 
whooping-cough  and  measles,  do  not  afflict  the  Ainos 
fatally ; but  the  children  suffer  from  a cutaneous  affec- 
tion, which  wears  off  as  they  reach  the  age  of  ten  or 
eleven  years,  as  weU.  as  from  severe  toothache  with 
their  first  teeth. 


AINO  CLOTHING, 


83 


COSTUME  AND  CUSTOMS. 

Aino  Clothing  — Holiday  Dress —>  Domestic  Architecture  — House- 
hold Gods — Japanese  Curios  — Tha  Necessaries  of  Life  — Clay 
Soup  — Arrow  Poison  — Arrow  Traps  — Female  Occupations  — 
Bark  Cloth  — The  Art  of  Weaving. 

Aino  clothing,  for  savages,  ^is  exceptionally  good. 
In  the  winter  it  consists  of  one,  two,  or  more  coats  of 
skins,  with  hootis  of  the  same,  to  which  the  men  add 
rude  moccasins  when  they  go  out  hunting.  In  summer 
they  wear  kimonos^  or  loose  coats,  made  of  cloth  woven 
from  the  split  bark  of  a forest  tree.  This  is  a duraMe 
and  beautiful  fabric  in  various  shades  of  natural  buff, 
and  somewhat  resembles  what  is  known  to  fancy  work- 
ers as  “ Panama  canvas.”  Under  this  a skin  or  bark- 
cloth  vest  may  or  may  not  be  worn.  The  men  wear 
these  coats  reaching  a little  below  the  knees,  folded 
over  from  right  to  left,  and  confined  at  the  waist  by  a 
narrow  girdle  of  the  same  cloth,  to  which  is  attached  a 
rude,  dagger-shaped  knife,  with  a carved  and  engraved 
wooden  handle  and  sheath.  Smoking  is  by  no  means  a 
general  practice,  consequently  the  pipe  and  tobacco-box 
are  not,  as  with  the  Japanese,  a part  of  ordinary  male 
attire.  Tightly-fitting  leggings,  either  of  bark-cloth  or 
skin,  are  worn  by  both  sexes,  but  neither  shoes  nor  san- 
dals. The  coat  worn  by  the  women  reaches  half-way 
between  the  knees  and  ankles,  and  is  quite  loose  and 
without  a girdle.  It  is  fastened  the  whole  way  up  to 
the  collar-bone ; and  not  only  is  the  Aino  woman  com- 


84 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


pletely  covered,  but  she  will  not  change  one  garment 
for  another  except  alone  or  in  the  dark.  Lately  a 
Japanese  woman  at  Sarufuto  took  an  Aino  woman  into 
her  house,  and  insisted  on  her  taking  a bath,  which  she 
absolutely  refused  to  do  till  the  bath-house  had  been 
made  quite  private  by  means  of  screens.  On  the 
Japanese  woman  going  back  a little  later  to  see  what 
had  become  of  her,  she  found  her  sitting  in  the  water 
in  her  clothes;  and  on  being  remonstrated  with,  she 
said  that  the  gods  would  be  angry  if  they  saw  her  with- 
out clothes ! 

Many  of  the  garments  for  holiday  occasions  are  ex- 
ceedingly handsome,  being  decorated  with  “geometri- 
cal ” patterns,  in  which  the  “ Greek  fret  ” takes  part,  in 
coarse  blue  cotton,  braided  most  dexterously  with  scarlet 
and  white  thread.  Some  of  the  handsomest  take  half  a 
year  to  make.  The  masculine  dress  is  completed  by  an 
apron  of  oblong  shape  decorated  in  the  same  elaborate 
manner.  These  handsome  savages,  with  their  powerful 
physique.^  look  remarkably  Avell  in  their  best  clothes.  I 
have  not  seen  a boy  or  girl  above  nine  who  is  not 
thoroughly  clothed.  The  “ jewels  ” of  the  women  are 
large,  hoop  earrings  of  silver  or  pewter,  with  attach- 
ments of  a classical  pattern,  and  silver  neck  ornaments, 
and  a few  have  brass  bracelets  soldered  upon  their  arms. 
The  women  have  a perfect  passion  for  every  hue  of  red, 
and  I have  made  friends  with  them  by  dividing  among 
them  a large  turkey-red  silk  handkerchief,  strips  of 
which  are  already  being  utilised  for  the  ornamenting 
of  coats. 

The  houses  in  the  five  villages  up  here  are  very  good. 
So  they  are  at  Horobets,  but  at  Shira6i,  where  the  abo- 
rigines suffer  from  the  close  proximity  of  several  grog 
shops,  they  are  inferior.  They  differ  in  many  ways  from 
auv  that  I have  before  seen,  approaching  most  nearly  to 


DOMESTIC  ABCniTECTURE. 


85 


the  grass  houses  of  the  natives  of  Hawaii.  Custom  does 
not  appear  to  permit  either  of  variety  or  innovations ; 
in  all  the  style  is  the  same,  and  the  difference  consists 
in  the  size  and  plenishings.  The  dwellings  seemed  ill- 
fitted  for  a rigorous  climate,  but  the  same  thing  may  be 
said  of  those  of  the  Japanese.  In  their  houses,  as  in 
their  faces,  the  Ainos  are  more  European  than  their 
conquerors,  as  they  possess  doorways,  windows,  central 
fireplaces,  like  those  of  the  Highlanders  of  Scotland, 
and  raised  sleeping-places. 

The  usual  appearance  is  that  of  a small  house  built 
on  at  the  end  of  a larger  one.  The  small  house  is  the 
vestibule  or  ante-room,  and  is  entered  by  a low  doorwa}^ 
screened  by  a heavy  mat  of  reeds.  It  contains  the  large 
wooden  mortar  and  pestle  with  two  ends,  used  for  pound- 
ing millet,  a wooden  receptacle  for  millet,  nets  or  hunt- 
ing gear,  and  some  bundles  of  reeds  for  repairing  roof  or 
walls.  This  room  never  contains  a window.  From  it 
the  large  room  is  entered  by  a doorway,  over  which  a 
heavy  reed-mat,  bound  with  hide,  invariably  hangs. 
This  room  in  Benri’s  case  is  35  feet  long  by  25  feet 
broad,  another  is  45  feet  square,  the  smallest  measures 
20  feet  by  15.  On  entering,  one  is  much  impressed  by 
the  great  height  and  steepness  of  the  roof,  altogether 
out  of  proportion  to  the  height  of  the  walls. 

The  frame  of  the  house  is  of  posts,  4 feet  10  inches 
high,  placed  4 feet  apart,  and  sloping  slightly  inwards. 
The  height  of  the  walls  is  apparently  regulated  by  that 
of  the  reeds,  of  which  only  one  length  is  used,  and  which 
never  exceed  4 feet  10  inches.  The  posts  are  scooped 
at  the  top,  and  heavy  poles,  resting  on  the  scoops,  are 
laid  along  them  to  form  the  top  of  the  wall.  The  posts 
are  again  connected  twice  by  slighter  poles  tied  on  hori- 
zontally. The  wall  is  double;  the  .outer  part  being 
formed  of  reeds  tied  very  neatly  to  the  framework  in 


86 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


small,  regular  bundles,  the  inner  layer  or  wall  being 
made  of  reeds  attached  singly.  From  the  top  of  the 
pole,  which  is  secured  to  the  top  of  the  posts,  the  frame- 
work of  the  roof  rises  to  a height  of  twenty-two  feet, 
made,  like  the  rest,  of  poles  tied  to  a heavy  and  roughly- 
hewn  ridge-beam.  At  one  end  under  the  ridge-beam 
there  is  a large  triangular  aperture  for  the  exit  of  smoke. 
Two  very  stout,  roughly-hewn  beams  cross  the  width  of 
the  house,  resting  on  the  posts  of  the  wall,  and  on  props 
let  into  the  floor,  and  a number  of  poles  are  laid  at  the 
same  height,  by  means  of  which  a secondary  roof  formed 
of  mats  can  be  at  once  extemporised,  but  this  is  only 
used  for  guests.  These  poles  answer  the  same  purpose 
as  shelves.  Very  great  care  is  bestowed  upon  the  out- 
side of  the  roof,  which  is  a marvel  of  neatness  and  pretti- 
ness, and  has  the  appearance  of  a series  of  frills,  being 
thatched  in  ridges.  The  ridge-pole  is  very  thickly  cov- 
ered, and  the  thatch  both  there  and  at  the  comers  is 
elaborately  laced  with  a pattern  m strong  peeled  twigs. 
The  poles,  which,  for  much  of  the  room,  run  from  wall 
to  wall,  compel  one  to  stoop,  to  avoid  fracturing  one’s 
skull,  and  bringing  down  spears,  bows  and  arrows, 
arrow-traps,  and  other  primitive  property.  The  roof 
and  rafters  are  black  and  shiny  from  wood  smoke. 
Immediately  under  them,  at  one  end  and  one  side, 
are  small,  square  windows,  which  are  closed  at  night 
by  wooden  shutters,  which  during  the  day-time  hang 
b}"  ropes.  Nothing  is  a greater  insult  to  an  Aino  than 
to  look  in  at  his  window. 

On  the  left  of  the  doorway  is  invariably  a fixed 
wooden  platform,  eighteen  inches  high,  and  covered 
with  a single  mat,  which  is  the  sleeping-place.  The  pil- 
lows are  small  stiff  bolsters,  covered  with  ornamental 
matting.  If  the  family  be  large  there  are  several  of 
these  sleeping  platforms.  A pole  runs  horizontally  at 


HOUSEHOLD  GODS. 


87 


a fitting  distance  above  the  outside  edge  of  each,  over 
which  mats  are  thrown  to  conceal  the  sleepers  from  the 
rest  of  the  room.  The  inside  half  of  these  mats  is  plain, 
but  the  outside,  which  is  seen  from  the  room,  has  a dia- 
mond pattern  woven  into  it  in  dull  reds  and  browns. 
The  whole  floor  is  covered  with  a very  coarse  reed-mat, 
with  interstices  half  an  inch  wide.  The  fireplace,  which 
is  six  feet  long,  is  oblong.  Above  it,  on  a very  black 


AINO  GODS. 


and  elaborate  framework,  hangs  a very  black  and  shiny 
mat,  whose  superfluous  soot  forms  the  basis  of  the  stain 
used  in  tattooing,  and  whose  apparent  purpose  is  to  pre- 
vent the  smoke  ascending,  and  to  diffuse  it  equally 
throughout  the  room.  From  this  framework  depends 
the  great  cooking-pot,  which  plays  a most  important 
part  in  Aino  economy. 

Household  gods  form  an  essential  part  of  the  furnish- 


88 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


ing  of  every  house.  In  this  one,  at  the  left  of  the 
entrance,  there  are  ten  white  wands,  with  shavings  de- 
pending from  the  upper  end,  stuck  in  the  wall ; another 
projects  from  the  window  which  faces  the  sunrise,  and 
the  great  god,  a white  post,  two  feet  high,  with  spirals 
of  shavings  depending  from  the  top,  is  always  planted 
in  the  floor,  near  the  wall,  on  the  left  side,  opposite  the 
fire,  between  the  platform  bed  of  the  householder  and 
the  low,  broad  shelf  placed  invariably  on  the  same  side, 
and  wliich  is  a singular  feature  of  all  Aino  houses,  coast 
and  mountain,  down  to  the  poorest,  containing,  as  it 
does,  Japanese  curios,  many  of  them  very  valuable  ob- 
jects of  antique  art,  though  much  destroyed  by  damp 
and  dust.  They  are  true  curiosities  in  the  dwellings  of 
these  northern  aborigines,  and  look  almost  solemn 
ranged  against  the  wall.  In  this  house  there  are 
twenty-four  lacquered  urns,  or  tea-chests,  or  seats,  each 
standing  two  feet  high  on  four  small  legs,  shod  with 
engraved  or  filigree  brass.  Behind  these  are  eight  lacq- 
uered tubs,  and  a number  of  bowls  and  lacquer  trays, 
and  above  are  spears  with  inlaid  handles,  and  fine  Kaga 
and  Awata  bowls.  The  lacquer  is  good,  and  several  of 
the  urns  have  daimiyoB  crests  in  gold  upon  them.  One 
urn  and  a large  covered  bowl  are  beautifully  inlaid 
with  Venus’  ear.  The  great  urns  are  to  be  seen  in  every 
house,  and  in  addition  there  are  suits  of  inlaid  armour, 
and  swords  with  inlaid  hilts,  engraved  blades,  and 
r^poussS  scabbards,  for  which  a collector  would  give 
almost  anything.  No  offers,  however  liberal,  can  tempt 
them  to  sell  any  of  these  antique  possessions.  “ They 
were  presents,”  they  say  in  their  low,  musical  voices ; 
“ they  were  presents  from  those  who  were  kind  to  our 
fathers ; no,  we  cannot  sell  them ; they  were  presents.” 
And  so  gold  lacquer,  and  pearl  inlaying,  and  gold  niello- 
work,  and  daimiyd' 8 crests  in  gold,  continue  to  gleam 


THE  NECESSARIES  OF  LIFE. 


89 


hi  the  smoky  darkness  of  their  huts.  Some  of  these 
things  were  doubtless  gifts  to  their  fathers  when  they 
went  to  pay  tribute  to  the  representative  of  the  Sh6gan 
and  the  prince  of  Matsumae,  soon  after  the  conquest 
of  Yezo.  Others  were  probably  gifts  from  samurai^ 
who  took  refuge  here  during  the  rebellion,  and  some 
must  have  been  obtained  by  barter.  They  are  the  one 
possession  which  they  will  not  barter  for  sakS.,  and  are 
only  parted  with  in  payment  of  fines  at  the  command 
of  a chief,  or  as  the  dower  of  a girl. 

Except  in  the  poorest  houses,  where  the  people  can 
only  afford  to  lay  down  a mat  for  a guest,  tliey  cover 
the  coarse  mat  with  fine  ones  on  each  side  of  the  fire. 
These  mats  and  the  bark-cloth  are  • really  their  only 
manufactures.  They  are  made  of  fine  reeds,  with  a 
pattern  in  dull  reds  or  browns,  and  are  14  feet  long 
by  3 feet  6 inches  wide.  It  takes  a woman  eight  days 
to  make  one  of  them.  In  every  house  there  are  one  or 
two  movable  platforms  6 feet  by  4 and  14  inches  high, 
which  are  placed  at  the  head  of  the  fireplace,  and  on 
which  guests  sit  and  sleep  on  a bearskin  or  a fine  mat. 
In  many  houses  there  are  broad  seats  a few  inches  high, 
on  which  the  elder  men  sit  cross-legged,  as  their  custom 
is,  not  squatting  Japanese  fasliion  on  the  heels.  A 
water-tub  always  rests  on  a stand  by  the  door,  and  the 
dried  fish  and  venison  or  bear  for  daily  use  hang  from 
the  rafters,  as  well  as  a few  skins.  Besides  these  things 
there  are  a few  absolute  necessaries, — lacquer  or  wooden 
bowls  for  food  and  sake.,  a chopping-board  and  rude 
chopping  knife,  a cleft  stick  for  burning  strips  of  birch- 
bark,  a triply-cleft  stick  for  supporting  the  potsherd  in 
which,  on  rare  occasions,  they  burn  a wick  with  oil,  the 
component  parts  of  their  rude  loom,  the  bark  of  which 
they  make  their  clothes,  the  reeds  of  which  they  make 
their  mats,  — and  the  inventory  of  the  essentials  of 


90 


UNBEATEN  TBACES  IN  JAPAN. 


their  life  is  nearly  complete.  No  iron  enters  into  the 
construction  of  their  houses,  its  place  being  supplied  by 
a remarkably  tenacious  fibre. 

I have  before  described  the  preparation  of  their  food, 


PeT  reef. 


Shelf 
of  he  (Ls 


Window 


'Window 


‘ Door  1 
mat 


Woo  (leu  _ h ! o.  t- 
foj'm  with  VI  at 


\od 


O o 

W Water 


Tu6s 


Fire 

hole 

O 

- 

Shelf 
of  beds 


god 


JLow 

Shelf 

With 

Jajian. 

carl  os. 


Shelf  of  Curios. 


Window 

PLAN  OF  AN  AINO  HOUSE. 


which  usually  consists  of  a stew  “ of  abominable  things.” 
They  eat  salt  and  fresh  fish,  dried  fish,  seaweed,  slugs, 
the  various  vegetables  which  grow  in  the  wilderness  of 
tall  weeds  which  surrounds  their  villages,  wild  roots  and 
berries,  fresh  and  dried  venison  and  bear ; their  cami- 


30  jree  t 


ATI  ROW  POISON. 


91 


val  consisting  of  fresh  bear’s  flesh  and  sakS.,  seaweed, 
mushrooms,  and  anything  they  can  get,  in  fact,  which 
is  not  poisonous,  mixing  everything  up  together.  They 
use  a wooden  spoon  for  stirring,  and  eat  with,  chopsticks. 
Tliey  have  only  two  regular  meals  a-day,  but  eat  very 
lieartily.  In  addition  to  the  eatables  just  mentioned 
they  have  a thick  soup  made  from  a putty-like  clay 
wliich  is  found  in  one  or  two  of  the  valleys.  This  is 
boiled  with  the  bulb  of  a wild  lily,  and  after  much  of 
tlie  clay  has  been  allowed  to  settle,  the  liquid,  which  is 
very  thick,  is  poured  off.  In  the  north,  a valley  where 
this  earth  is  found  is  called  Tsie-toi-nai,  literally,  “ eat- 
earth-valley.” 

The  men  spend  the  autumn,  winter,  and  spring  in 
1 Hinting  deer  and  bears.  Part  of  their  tribute  or  taxes 
is  paid  in  skins,  and  they  subsist  on  the  dried  meat. 
Up  to  about  this  time  the  Ainos  have  obtained  these 
beasts  by  means  of  poisoned  arrows,  arrow-traps,  and 
pitfalls,  but  the  Japanese  Government  has  prohibited 
the  use  of  poison  and  arrow-traps,  and  these  men  say 
that  hunting  is  becoming  extremely  difficult,  as  the 
wild  animals  are  driven  back  farther  and  farther  into 
the  mountains  by  the  sound  of  the  guns.  However, 
they  add  significantly,  “ the  eyes  of  the  Japanese  Gov- 
ernment are  not  in  every  place  ! ” 

Tlieir  bows  are  only  three  feet  long,  and  are  made  of 
stout  saplings  with  the  bark  on,  and  there  is  no  attempt 
to  render  them  light  or  shapely  at  the  ends.  The  wood 
is  singularly  inelastic.  The  arrows  (of  which  I have 
obtained  a number)  are  very  peculiar,  and  are  made  in 
three  pieces,  the  point  consisting  of  a sharpened  piece 
of  bone  with  an  elongated  cavity  on  one  side  for  the 
reception  of  the  poison.  This  point  or  head  is  very 
slightly  fastened  by  a lashing  of  bark  to  a fusiform 
piece  of  bone  about  four  inches  long,  which  is  in  its 


92 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


turn  lashed  to  a shaft  about  fourteen  inches  long,  tlie 
other  end  of  which  is  sometimes  equipped  with  a triple 
feather  and  sometimes  is  not. 

The  poison  is  placed  in  the  elongated  cavity  in  the 
head  in  a very  soft  state,  and  hardens  afterwards.  In 
some  of  the  arrow-heads  fully  half  a teaspoonful  of  the 
paste  is  inserted.  From  the  nature  of  the  very  slight 
lashings  which  attach  the  arrow-head  to  the  shaft,  it 
constantly  remains  fixed  in  the  slight  wound  that  it 
makes,  while  the  shaft  falls  off. 

/ Pipichari  has  given  me  a small  quantity  of  the  poi- 
sonous paste,  and  has  also  taken  me  to  see  the  plant 
from  the  root  of  which  it  is  made,  the  Aconitum  Japoni- 
cum^  a monkshood,  whose  tall  spikes  of  blue  flowers  are 
brightening  the  brushwood  in  all  directions.  The  root 
is  pounded  into  a pulp,  mixed  with  a reddish  earth  like 
an  iron  ore  pulverised,  and  again  with  animal  fat,  before 
being  placed  in  the  arrow.  It  has  been  said  that  the 
poison  is  prepared  for  use  by  being  buried  in  the  earth, 
but  Benri  says  that  this  is  needless.  They  claim  for  it 
that  a single  wound  kills  a bear  in  ten  minutes,  but 
that  the  flesh  is  not  rendered  unfit  for  eating,  though 
they  take  the  precaution  of  cutting  away  a considerable 
quantity  of  it  round  the  wound. 

Dr.  Eldridge,  formerly  of  Hakodate,  obtained  a small 
quantity  of  the  poison,  and,  after  tr}dng  some  experi- 
ments with  it,  came  to  the  conclusion  that  it  is  less 
virulent  than  other  poisons  employed  for  a like  purpose, 
as  by  the  natives  of  Java,  the  Bushmen,  and  certain 
tribes  of  the  Amazon  and  Orinoco.  The  Ainos  say  that 
if  a man  is  accidentally  wounded  by  a poisoned  arrow 
the  only  cure  is  immediate  excision  of  the  part. 

I do  not  wonder  that  the  Government  has  prohibited 
arrow-traps,  for  they  made  locomotion  unsafe,  and  it  is 
still  unsafe  a little  farther  north,  where  the  hunters  are 


FEMALE  OCCUPATIONS. 


93 


.lin' 


more  out  of  observation  than  here.  ‘ The  traps  consist 
of  a large  bow  with  a poisoned  arrow,  fixed  in  such  a 
way  that  when  the  bear  walks  over  a 
cord  which  is  attached  to  it  he  is  simul- 
taneously transfixed.  I have  seen  as 
many  as  fifty  in  one  house.  The  sim- 
ple contrivance  for  inflicting  this  silent 
Death  is  most  ingenious. 

The  women  are  occupied  all  day,  as 
I have  before  said.  They  look  cheer- 
ful, and  even  merry  when  they  smile, 
and  are  not  like  the  Japanese,  prema- 
turely old,  partly  perhaps  because  their 
houses  are  well  ventilated,  and  the  use 
of  charcoal  is  unknown.  I do  not 
think  that  they  undergo  the  unmitigated 
drudgery  which  falls  to  the  lot  of  most 
savage  women,  though  they  work  hard. 

The  men  do  not  like  them  to  speak  to 
strangers,  however,  and  say  that  their 
place  is  to  work  and  rear  children. 

They  eat  of  the  same  food,  and  at  the 
same  time  as  the  men,  laugh  and  talk 
before  them,  and  receive  equal  support 
and  respect  in  old  age.  They  sell  mats 
and  bark-cloth  in  the  piece,  and  made 
up,  when  they  can,  and -their  husbands 
do  not  take  their  earnings  from  them. 

All  Aino  women  understand  the  mak- 
ing of  bark-cloth.  The  men  bring  in 
tlie  bark  in  strips,  five  feet  long,  hav- 
ing removed  the  outer  coating.  This 
inner  bark  is  easily  separated  into  sev- 
eral thin  layers,  wliich  are  split  into  very  narrow  strips 
by  the  older  women,  very  neatly  knotted,  and  wound 


IS! 


WEATEB’S  BHTJTTLE. 


94 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


into  balls  weighing  about  a pound  each.  No  prepara- 
tion of  either  the  bark  or  the  thread  is  required  to  fit  it 
for  weaving,  but  I observe  that  some  of  the  women 
steep  it  in  a decoction  of  a bark  which  produces  a 
brown  dye  to  deepen  the  buff  tint. 

The  loom  is  so  simple  that  I almost  fear  to  represent 
it  as  complicated  by  description.  It  consists  of  a stout 
iiook  fixed  in  the  floor,  to  which  the  threads  of  the  far 
end  of  the  web  are  secured,  a cord  fastening  the  near 
end  to  the  waist  of  the  worker,  who  supplies,  by  dex- 
1 erous  rigidity,  the  necessary  tension  ; a frame  like  a 
comb  resting  on  the  ankles,  through  which  the  threads 
pass,  a hollow  roll  for  keeping  the  upper  and  under 
threads  separate,  a spatula-shaped  shuttle  of  engraved 
wood,  and  a roller  on  which  the  cloth  is  rolled  as  it  is 
made.  The  length  of  the  web  is  fifteen  feet,  and  the 
width  of  the  cloth  fifteen  inches.  It  is  woven  with 
great  regularity,  and  the  knots  in  the  thread  are  care- 
fully kept  on  the  under  side.^  It  is  a very  slow  and 
fatiguing  process,  and  a woman  cannot  do  much  more 
than  a foot  a day.  The  weaver  sits  on  the  floor  with 
the  whole  arrangement  attached  to  her  waist,  and  the 
loom,  if  such  it  may  be  called,  on  her  ankles.  It  takes 
long  practice  before  she  can  supply  the  necessary  ten- 
sion by  spinal  rigidity.  As  the  work  proceeds  she 
drags  herself  almost  imperceptibly  nearer  the  hook.  In 
this  house  and  other  large  ones  two  or  three  women 
bring  in  their  webs  in  the  morning,  fix  their  hooks, 
and  weave  all  day,  while  others,  who  have  not  equal 
advantages,  put  their  hooks  in  the  ground  and  weave 
in  the  sunshine.  The  web  and  loom  can  be  bundled  up 
in  two  minutes,  and  carried  away  quite  as  easily  as  a 

1 I have  not  been  able  to  obtain  from  any  botanist  the  name  of  the 
tree  from  the  bark  of  which  the  thread  is  made,  but  suppose  it  to  be  a 
species  of  Tiliacece,. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING, 

knitted  sofa  blanket.  It  is  the  simplest  and  perhaps 
the  most  primitive  form  of  hand-loom,  and  comb,  shut- 
tle, and  roll,  are  all  easily  fashioned  with  an  ordinary 
knife. 


UNBEATEN  TEACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


y(j 


RELIGION  OF  AINOS. 

A.  Simple  Nature  Worsliip  — Aino  Gods  — A Festival  Song — Reli- 
gious Intoxication  — Bear  Worship  — The  Annual  Saturnalia  — 

The  Future  State  — Marriage  and  Divorce  — Musical  Instmments 

— Etiquette  — The  Chieftainship  — Death  and  Burial  — Old  Age 

— Moral  Qualities. 

There  cannot  be  anything  more  vague  and  destitute 
of  cohesion  than  Aino  religious  notions.  With  the  ex- 
ception of  the  hill  shrines  of  Japanese  construction 
dedicated  to  Yoshitsun^,  they  have  no  temples,  and 
they  have  neither  priests,  sacrifices,  nor  worship.  Ap- 
parently through  all  traditional  time  their  cultus  has 
been  the  rudest  and  most  primitive  form  of  nature 
worship,  the  attaching  of  a vague  sacredness  to  trees, 
rivers,  rocks,  and  mountains,  and  of  vague  notions  of 
power  for  good  or  evil  to  the  sea,  the  forest,  the  fire, 
and  the  sun  and  moon.  I cannot  make  out  that  they 
possess  a trace  of  the  deification  of  ancestors,  though 
their  rude  nature  worship  may  well  have  been  the 
primitive  form  of  Japanese  Shint6.  The  solitary  ex- 
ception to  their  adoration  of  animate  and  inanimate 
nature  appears  to  be  the  reverence  paid  to  Yoshitsund, 
to  whom  they  believe  they  are  greatly  indebted,  and 
who,  it  is  supposed  by  some,  will  yet  interfere  on  their 
behalf.^  Their  gods,  that  is,  the  outward  symbols  of 

1 Yoshitsund  is  the  most  popular  hero  of  Japanese  history,  and  the 
special  favourite  of  boys.  He  was  the  brother  of  Yoritomo,  who  was 
appointed  by  the  Mikado  in  1192,  Sei-i  Tai  Shogun  (harharian-subjugat- 


ELEMENTARY  RELIGION. 


97 


their  religion,  corresponding  most  likely  with  the  ShintO 
gohei^  are  wands  and  posts  of  peeled  wood,  whittled 
nearly  to  the  top,  from  which  the  pendent  shavings  fall 
down  in  white  curls.  These  are  not  only  set  up  in 
their  houses,  sometimes  to  the  number  of  twenty,  but 
on  precipices,  banks  of  rivers  and  streams,  and  moun- 
tain passes,  and  such  wands  are  thrown  into  the  rivers 
as  the  boatmen  descend  rapids  and  dangerous  places. 
Since  my  baggage  horse  fell  over  an  acclivity  on  the  trail 
from  Sarufuto,  four  such  wands  have  been  placed  there. 
It  is  nonsense  to  write  of  the  religious  ideas  of  a people 
who  have  none,  and  of  beliefs  among  people  who  are 
merely  adult  children.  The  traveller  who  formulates 
an  Aino  creed  must  “evolve  it  from  his  inner  con- 
sciousness.” I have  taken  infinite  trouble  to  learn  from 
themselves  what  their  religious  notions  are,  and  Shi- 
nondi  tells  me  that  they  have  told  me  all  they  know, 
and  the  whole  sum  is  a few  vague  fears  and  hopes,  and 
a suspicion  that  there  are  things  outside  themselves 


ing  great  general)  for  his  victories,  and  was  the  first  of  that  series  of 
great  Shoguns  whom  our  European  notions  distorted  into  “ Temporal 
Emperors”  of  Japan.  Yoshitsune,  to  whom  the  real  honour  of  these 
victories  belonged,  became  the  object  of  the  jealousy  and  hatred  of  his 
brother,  and  was  hunted  from  province  to  jirovince,  till,  according  to 
popular  belief,  he  committed  hara-kiri,  after  killing  his  wife  and 
children,  and  his  head,  preserved  in  sake,  was  sent  to  his  brother  at 
Kamakura.  Scholars,  however,  are  not  agreed  as  to  the  manner, 
period,  or  scene  of  his  death.  Many  believe  that  he  escaped  to  Yezo 
and  lived  among  the  Ainos  for  many  years,  dying  among  them  at  the 
close  of  the  twelfth  century.  None  believe  this  mOre  firmly  than  the 
Ainos  themselves,  who  assert  that  he  taught  their  fathers  the  arts  of 
civilisation,  with  letters  and  numbers,  and  gave  them  righteous  laws, 
and  he  is  worshipped  by  many  of  them  under  a name  which  signifies 
Master  of  the  Law.  I have  been  told  by  old  men  in  Biratori,  Usu,  and 
Lebunge,  that  a later  Japanese  conqueror  carried  away  the  books  in 
which  the  arts  were  written,  and  that  since  his  time  the  arts  themselves 
have  been  lost,  and  the  Ainos  have  fallen  into  their  present  condition! 
On  asking  why  the  Ainos  do  not  make  vessels  of  iron  and  clay  as  well 
as  knives  and  spears,  the  invariable  answer  is,  “The  Japanese  took 
away  the  books.” 


98 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


more  powerful  than  themselves,  whose  good  influences 
may  be  obtained,  or  whose  evil  influences  may  be 
averted,  by  libations  of  sake. 

The  word  worship  is  in  itself  misleading.  When  I 
use  it  of  these  savages  it  sunply  means  libations  of  sake, 
waving  bowls  and  waving  hands,  without  any  spiritual 
act  of  deprecation  or  supplication.  In  such  a sense  and 
such  alone  they  worship  the  sun  and  moon  (but  not  the 
stars),  the  forest,  and  the  sea.  The  wolf,  the  black 
snake,  the  owl,  and  several  other  beasts  and  birds  have 
the  word*  kamoi.^  god,  attached  to  them,  as  the  wolf  is 
the  “howling  god,”  the  owl  “the  bird  of  the  gods,”  a 
black  snake  the  “ raven  god,”  but  none  of  these  things 
are  now  “ worshipped,”  wolf-worship  having  quite  lately 
died  out.  Thunder,  “ the  voice  of  the  gods,”  inspires 
some  fear.  The  sun,  they  say,  is  their  best  god,  and 
the  fire  their  next  best,  obviously  the  divinities  from 
whom  their  greatest  benefits  are  received.  Some  idea 
of  gratitude  pervades  their  rude  notions,  as  in  the  case 
of  the  “worship  ” paid  to  Yoshitsund,  and  it  appears  in 
one  of  the  rude  recitations  chanted  at  the  Saturnalia 
w^hich  in  several  places  conclude  the  hunting  and  fish- 
ing seasons : — 

“ To  the  sea  which  nourishes  us,  to  the  forest  which  . 
protects  us,  we  present  our  grateful  thanks.  You  are 
two  mothers  that  nourish  the  same  child;  do  not  be 
angry  if  we  leave  one  to  go  to  the  other. 

“The  Ainos  will  always  be  the  pride  of  the  forest 
and  of  the  sea.” 

The  solitary  act  of  sacrifice  which  they  perform  is 
the  placing  of  a worthless,  dead  bird,  something  like  a 
sparrow,  near  one  of  their  peeled  wands,  where  it  is  left 
till  it  reaches  an  advanced  stage  of  putrefaction.  “ To 
drink  for  the  god  ” is  the  chief  act  of  “ worship,”  and 
thus  drunkenness  and  religion  are  inseparably  con- 


BEAR  WORSHIP. 


99 


nected,  as  the  more  sahS  the  Ainos  drink  the  more 
devout  they  are,  and  the  better  pleased  are  the  gods. 
It  does  not  appear  that  anything  but  sake  is  of  suffi- 
cient value  to  please  the  gods.  The  libations  to  the 
fire  and  the  peeled  post  are  never  omitted,  and  are 
always  accompanied  by  the  inward  waving  of  the  sakS 
bowls. 

The  peculiarity  which  distinguishes  this  rude  mythol- 
ogy is  the  “worship  ” of  the  bear,  the  Yezo  bear  being 
one  of  the  finest  of  his  species,  but  it  is  impossible  to 
understand  the  feelings  by  which  it  is  prompted,  for 
they  worship  it  after  their  fashion,  and  set  up  its  head  in 
their  villages,  yet  they  trap  it,  kill  it,  eat  it,  and  sell  its 
skin.  There  is  no  doubt  that  this  wild  beast  inspires 
more  of  the  feeling  which  prompts  worship  than  the  in- 
animate forces  of  nature,  and  the  Ainos  may  be  distin- 
guished as  bear-worshippers,  and  their  greatest  religious 
festival  or  Saturnalia  as  the  Festival  of  the  Bear.  Gen- 
tle and  peaceable  as  they  are,  they  have  a great  admira- 
tion for  fierceness  and  courage ; and  the  bear,  which  is 
the  strongest,  fiercest,  and  most  courageous  animal 
known  to  them,  has  probably  in  all  ages  inspired  them 
with  veneration.  Some  of  their  rude  chants  are  in 
praise  of  the  bear,  and  their  highest  eulogy  on  a man  is 
to  compare  him  to  a bear.  Thus  Shinondi  said  of  Benri 
the  chief,  “ He  is  as  strong  as  a bear,”  and  the  old  Fate 
praising  Pipichari  called  him  “ The  young  bear.” 

In  all  Aino  villages,  specially  near  the  chiefs  house, 
there  are  several  tall  poles  with  the  fleshless  skull  of  a 
bear  on  the  top  of  each,  and  in  most  there  is  also  a large 
cage,  made  gridiron  fashion,  of  stout  timbers,  and  raised 
two  or  three  feet  from  the  ground.  At  the  present  time 
such  cages  contain  young  but  well-grown  bears,  cap- 
tured when  quite  small  in  the  early  spring.  After  the 
capture  the  bear  cub  is  introduced  into  a dwelling-house, 


100 


UNBEATEN  TBACK8  IN  JAPAN. 


generally  that  of  the  chief,  or  sub-chief,  where  it  is 
suckled  by  a woman,  and  played  with  by  the  children, 
till  it  grows  too  big  and  rough  for  domestic  ways,  and 
is  placed  in  a strong  cage,  in  which  it  is  fed  and  cared 
for,  as  I understand,  till  the  autumn  of  the  following 
year,  when,  being  strong  and  well-grown,  the  Festival 
of  the  Bear  is  celebrated.  The  customs  of  this  festival 
vary  considerably,  and  the  manner  of  the  bear’s  death 
differs  among  the  mountain  and  coast  Ainos,  but  every- 
where there  is  a general  gathering  of  the  people,  and  it 
is  the  occasion  of  a great  feast,  accompanied  with  much 
sake  and  a curious  dance,  in  which  men  alone  take 
part. 

Yells  and  shouts  are  used  to  excite  the  bear,  and 
when  he  becomes  much  agitated  a chief  shoots  him  with 
an  arrow,  inflicting  a slight  wound  Avhich  maddens  him, 
on  which  the  bars  of  the  cage  are  raised,  and  he  springs 
forth,  very  furious.  At  this  stage  the  Aioos  run  upon 
him  with  various  weapons,  each  one  striving  to  inflict  a 
wound,  as  it  brings  good  luck  to  draw  his  blood.  As 
soon  as  he  falls  down  exhausted,  his  head  is  cut  off,  and 
the  weapons  with  which  he  has  been  wounded  are 
offered  to  it,  and  he  is  asked  to  avenge  himself  upon 
them.  Afterwards  the  carcass,  amidst  a frenzied  up- 
roar, is  distributed  among  the  people,  and  amidst  feast- 
ing and  riot  the  head,  placed  upon  a pole,  is  worshipped, 
i.e,  it  receives  libations  of  sake.,  and  the  festival  closes 
with  general  intoxication.  In  some  villages  it  is 
customary  for  the  foster-mother  of  the  bear  to  utter 
piercing  wails  while  he  is  delivered  to  his  murderers, 
and  after  he  is  slain  to  beat  each  one  of  them  with  a 
branch  of  a tree.  [Afterwards  at  Usu,  on  Volcano 
Bay,  the  old  men  told  me  that  at  their  festival  the}^ 
despatch  the  bear  after  a different  manner.  On  letting 
it  loose  from  the  cage  two  men  seize  it  by  the  ears,  and 


A BLANK  FUTURE. 


101 


others  simultaneously  place  a long,  stout  pole  across  the 
nape  of  its  neck,  upon  which  a number  of  Ainos  mount, 
and  after  a prolonged  struggle  the  neck  is  broken.  As 
the  bear  is  seen  to  approach  his  end,  they  shout  in 
chorus,  “ We  kill  you,  O bear!  come  back  soon  into  an 
Aino.”  ] When  a bear  is  trapped  or  wounded  by  an 
arrow,  the  hunters  go  through  an  apologetic  or  propitia- 
tory ceremony.  They  appear  to  have  certain  rude  ideas 
of  metempsychosis,  as  is  evidenced  by  the  Usu  prayer 
to  the  bear  and  certain  rude  traditions,  but  whether 
these  are  indigenous,  or  have  arisen  by  contact  with 
Buddhism  at  a later  period,  it  is  impossible  to  say. 

They  have  no  definite  ideas  concerning  a future  state ; 
and  the  subject  is  evidently  not  a pleasing  one  to  them. 
Such  notions  as  they  have  are  few  and  confused.  Some 
think  that  the  spirits  of  their  friends  go  into  wolves 
and  snakes  ; others,  that  they  wander  about  the  forests ; 
and  they  are  much  afraid  of  ghosts.  A few  think  that 
they  go  to  “ a good  or  bad  place,”  according  to  their 
deeds ; but  Shinondi  said,  and  there  was  an  infinite 
pathos  in  his  words,  “How  can  we  know?  No  one 
ever  came  back  to  tell  us  I ” On  asking  him  what  were 
bad  deeds,  he  said,  “ Being  bad  to  parents,  stealing,  and 
telling  lies.”  The  future,  however,  does  nof  occupy 
any  place  in  their  thoughts,  and  they  can  hardly  be  said 
to  believe  in  the  immortality  of  the  soul,  though  their 
fear  of  ghosts  shows  that  they  recognise  a distinction 
between  body  and  spirit. 

Their  social  customs  are  very  simple.  Girls  never 
marry  before  the  age  of  seventeen,  or  men  before 
twenty-one.  When  a man  wishes  to  marry,  he  thinks 
of  some  particular  girl,  and  asks  the  chief  if  he  may 
ask  for  her.  If  leave  is  given,  either  through  a “go-  ^ 
between  ” or  personally,  he  asks  her  father  for  her,  ’and 
if  he  consents,  the  bridegroom  gives  him  a present. 


102 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


usually  a Japanese  “ curio.”  This  constitutes  betrothal, 
and  the  marriage,  which  immediately  follows,  is  cele- 
brated by  carousals  and  the  drinldng  of  much  sahS. 
The  bride  receives  as  her  dowry  her  earrings  and  a 
highly-ornamented  kimono.  It  is  an  essential  that  the 
husband  provides  a house  to  which  to  take  his  wife 
Each  couple  lives  separately,  and  even  the  eldest  son 
does  not  take  his  bride  to  his  father’s  house.  Polygamy 
is  only  allowed  in  two  cases.  The  chief  may  have  three 
wives ; but  each  must  have  her  separate  house.  Benri 
has  two  wives ; but  it  appears  that  he  took  the  second 
because  the  first  was  childless.  [The  Usu  Ainos  told 
me  that  among  the  tribes  of  Volcano  Bay  polygamy  is 
not  practised,  even  by  the  chiefs.]  It  is  also  permitted 
in  the  case  of  a childless  wife ; but  there  is  no  instance 
of  it  in  Biratori,  and  the  men  say  that  they  prefer  to 
have  one  wife,  as  two  quarrel. 

Widows  are  allowed  to  marry  again  with  the  chiefs 
consent ; but  among  these  mountain  Ainos  a woman 
must  remain  absolutely  secluded  within  the  house  of 
her  late  husband  for  a period  varying  from  six  to  twelve 
months,  only  going  to  the  door  at  intervals,  to  tlirow 
sake  to  the  right  and  left.  A man  secludes  himself 
similarly  for  thirty  days.  [So  greatly  do  the  customs 
vary,  that  round  Volcano  Bay  I found  that  the  period 
of  seclusion  for  a widow  is  only  thirty  daj^s,  and  for  a 
man  twenty-five ; but  that  after  a father’s  death  the 
house  in  which  he  has  lived  is  burned  down  after  the 
thirty  days  of  seclusion,  and  the  widow  and  her  children 
go  to  a friend’s  house  for  three  years,  after  which  the 
house  is  rebuilt  on  its  former  site.] 

If  a taan  does  not  like  his  wife,  by  obtaining  the 
chief’s  consent  he  can  divorce  her ; but  he  must  send 
her  back  to  her  parents  with  plenty  of  good  clothes; 
but  divorce  is  impracticable  where  there  are  children, 


MUSICAL  INSTBUMENTS. 


103 


and  is  rarely  if  ever  practised.  Conjugal  fidelity  is  a 
virtue  among  Aino  women;  but  “custom”  provides 
that,  in  case  of  unfaithfulness,  the  injured  husband  may 
bestow  his  wife  upon  her  paramour,  if  he  be  an  un- 
married man ; in  which  case  the  chief  fixes  the  amount 
of  damages  which  the  paramour  must  pay;  and  these 
are  usually  valuable  Japanese  curios. 

The  old  and  blind  people  are  entirely  supported  by 
their  children,  and  receive  until  their  dying  day  filial 
reverence  and  obedience. 

If  one  man  steals  from  another,  he  must  return  what 
he  has  taken,  and  give  the  injured  man  a present  be- 
sides,  the  v-alue  of  which  is  fixed  by  the  chief. 

Their  mode  of  living  you  already  know,  as  I have 
shared  it,  and  am  still  receiving  their  hospitality. 
“ Custom  ” enjoins  the  exercise  of  hospitality  on  ever}^ 
Aino.  They  receive  all  strangers  as  they  received 
me,  giving  them  of  their  best,  placing  them  in  the 
most  honourable  place,  bestowing  gifts  upon  them, 
and,  when  they  depart,  furnishing  them  with  cakes  of 
boiled  millet. 

They  have  few  amusements,  except  certain  feasts. 
Their  dance,  which  they  have  just  given  in  my  honour, 
is  slow  and  mournful,  and  their  songs  are  chants  or 
recitative.  They  have  a musical  instrument,  some- 
thing like  a guitar,  with  three,  five,  or  six  strings, 
which  are  made  from  sinews  of  whales  cast  up  on  the 
shore.  They  have  another,  which  is  believed  to  be 
peculiar  to  themselves,  consisting  of  a thin  piece  of 
wood,  about  five  inches  long  and  two  and  a half  inches 
broad,  with  a pointed  wooden  tongue,  about  two  lines 
in  breadth  and  sixteen  in  length,  fixed  in  the  middle, 
and  grooved  on  three  sides.  The  wood  is  held  before 
the  mouth,  and  the  tongue  is  set  in  motion  by  the 
vibration  of  the  breath  in  singing.  Its  sound,  thougli 


i04 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


less  penetrating,  is  as  discordant  as  tliat  of  a Jew’s 
harp,  which  it  somewhat  resembles.  One  of  the  men 
used  it  as  an  accompaniment  of  a song ; but  they  are 
unwilling  to  part  with  them,  as  they  say  that  it  is  very 
seldom  that  they  can  find  a piece  of  wood  which  will 
bear  the  fine  splitting  necessary  for  the  tongue. 

Tliey  are  a most  courteous  people  among  each  other. 
Tlie  salutations  are  frequent  — on  entering  a house,  on 
leaving  it,  on  meeting  on  the  road,  on  receiving  any- 
thing from  the  hand  of  another,  and  on  receiving  a 
kind  or  complimentary  speech.  They  do  not  make 
any  acknowledgments  of  this  kind  to  the  women,  how- 
ever. The  common  salutation  consists  in  extending 
the  hands  and  waving  them  inwards,  once  or  oftener, 
and  stroking  the  beard ; the  formal  one  io  raising  the 
hands  with  an  inward  curve  to  the  level  of  the  head 
two  or  three  times,  lowering  them,  and  rubbing  them 
together ; the  ceremony  concluding  with  stroking  the 
beard  several  times.  The  latter  and  more  formal  mode 
of  salutation  is  offered  to  the  chief,  and  by  the  young 
to  the  old  men.  The  women  have  no  “manners  ! ” 

They  have  no  “medicine  men,”  and  though  they  are 
aware  of  the  existence  of  healing  herbs,  they  do  not 
know  their  special  virtues  or  the  manner  of  using 
them.  Dried  and  pounded  bear’s  liver  is  their  specific, 
and  they  place  much  reliance  on  it  in  colic  and  other 
pains.  They  are  a healthy  race.  In  this  village  of 
300  souls,  there  are  no  chronically  ailing  people ; noth- 
ing but  one  case  of  bronchitis,  and  some  cutaneous 
maladies  among  children.  Neither  is  there  any  case 
of  deformity  in  this  and  five  other  large  villages  which 
I have  visited,  except  that  of  a girl,  who  has  one  leg 
slightly  shorter  than  the  other. 

They  ferment  a kind  of  intoxicating  liquor  from  the 
root  of  a tree,  and  also  from  their  own  millet  and  Jap- 


UNCLEANLY  UABITS. 


105 


anese  rice,  but  Japanese  sake  is  the  one  thing  that  they 
care  about.  They  spend  all  their  gains  upon  it,  and 
drink  it  in  enormous  quantities.  It  represents  to  them 
all  the  good  of  which  they  know,  or  can  conceive. 
Beastly  intoxication  is  the  highest  happiness  to  which 
these  poor  savages  aspire,  and  the  condition  is  sancti- 
fied to  them  under  the  fiction  of  “drinking  to  the 
gods.”  Men  and  women  alike  indulge  in  this  vice. 
A few,  however,  like  Pipichari,  abstain  from  it  totally, 
taking  the  bowl  in  their  hands,  making  the  libations 
to  the  gods,  and  then  passing  it  on.  I asked  Pipichari 
why  he  did  not  take  sake^  and  he  replied  with  a truth- 
ful terseness,  “ Because  it  makes  men  like  dogs.” 

Except  the  chief,  who  has  two  horses,  they  have  no 
domestic  animals  except  very  large,  yellow  dogs,  which 
are  used  in  hunting,  but  are  never  admitted  within 
the  houses. 

The  habits  of  the  people,  though  by  no  means  desti- 
tute of  decency  and  propriety,  are  not  cleanly.  The 
women  bathe  their  hands  once  a day,  but  any  other 
washing  is  unknown.  They  never  wash  their  clothes, 
and  wear  the  same  by  day  and  night.  I am  afraid  to 
speculate  on  the  condition  of  their  wealth  of  coal-black 
hair.  They  may  be  said  to  be  very  dirty,  as  dirty  fully 
as  masses  of  our  people  at  home.  Their  houses  swarm 
with  fleas,  but  they  are  not  worse  in  this  respect  than 
the  Japanese  yadoyas.  The  mountain  villages  have, 
however,  the  appearance  of  extreme  cleanliness,  being 
devoid  of  litter,  heaps,  puddles,  and  untidiness  of  all 
kinds,  and  there  are  no  unpleasant  odours  inside  or 
outside  the  houses,  as  they  are  well  ventilated  and 
smoked,  and  the  salt  fish  and  meat  are  kept  in  the 
godowns.  The  hair  and  beards  of  the  old  men,  instead 
of  being  snowy  as  they  ought  to  be,  are  yellow  from 
smoke  and  dirt. 


106 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


They  have  no  mode  of  computing  time,  and  do  not 
know  their  own  ages.  To  them  the  past  is  dead,  yet 
like  other  conquered  and  despised  races  they  cling  to 
the  idea  that  in  some  far-off  age  they  w^ere  a great 
nation.  They  have  no  traditions  of  internecine  strife, 
and  the  art  of  war  seems  to  have  been  lost  lon^  aero. 
I asked  Benri  about  this  matter,  and  he  says  that 
formerly  Ain  os  fought  with  spears  and  knives  as  well 
as  with  bows  and  arrows,  but  that  Yoshitsune,  their 
hero  god,  forbade  war  for  ever,  and  since  then  the 
two-edged  spear,  with  a shaft  nine  feet  long,  has  only 
been  used  in  hunting  bears. 

The  Japanese  Government  of  course  exercises  the 
same  authority  over  the  Ainos  as  over  its  other  sub- 
jects, but  probably  it  does  not  care  to  interfere  in 
domestic  or  tribal  matters,  and  within  this  outside 
limit  despotic  authority  is  vested  in  the  chiefs.  The 
Ainos  live  in  village  communities,  and  each  community 
has  its  own  chief,  who  is  its  lord  paramount.  It  ap- 
pears to  me  that  this  chieftainship  is  but  an  expansion 
of  the  paternal  relation,  and  that  all  the  village  fami- 
lies are  ruled  as  a unit.  Benri,  in  whose  house  I am,  is 
the  chief  of  Biratori,  and  is  treated  by  all  with  very 
great  deference  of  manner.  The  office  is  nominally  for 
life ; but  if  a chief  becomes  blind,  or  too  infirm  to  go 
about,  he  appoints  a successor.  If  he  has  a “ smart  ” 
son,  who'  he  thinks  will  command  the  respect  of  the 
people,  he  appoints  him;  but  if  not  he  chooses  the 
most  suitable  man  in  the  village.  The  people  are 
called  upon  to  approve  the  choice,  but  their  ratifica- 
tion is  never  refused.  The  office  is  not  hereditary 
anywhere. 

Benri  appears  to  exercise  the  authority  of  a very 
strict  father.  His  manner  to  all  the  men  is  like  that 
of  a master  to  slaves,  and  they  bow  when  they  speak 


DEATH  AND  BUIilAL. 


107 


to  him.  No  one  can  marry  without  his  approval.  If 
any  one  builds  a house  he  chooses  the  site.  He  has 
absolute  jurisdiction  in  civil  and  criminal  cases,  unless 
(which  is  very  rare)  the  latter  should  be  of  sufficient 
magnitude  to  be  reported  to  the  Imperial  officials.  He 
compels  restitution  of  stolen  property,  and  in  all  cases 
fixes  the  fines  which  are  to  be  paid  by  delinquents. 
He  also  fixes  the'  hunting  arrangements  and  the  festi- 
vals. The  younger  men  were  obviously  much  afraid 
of  incurring  his  anger  in  his  absence. 

An  eldest  son  does  not  appear  to  be,  as  among  the 
Japanese,  a privileged  person.  He  does  not  necessa- 
rily inherit  the  house  and  curios.  The  latter  are  not 
divided,  but  go  with  the  house  to  the  son  whom  the 
father  regards  as  being  the  “smartest.”  Formal  adop- 
tion is  practised.  Pipichari  is  an  adopted  son,  and  is 
likely  to  succeed  to  Benri’s  property  to  the  exclusion 
of  his  own  children.  I cannot  get  at  the  word  which 
is  translated  “ smartness,”  but  I understand  it  as  mean- 
ing general  capacity.  The  chief,  as  I have  mentioned 
before,  is  allowed  three  wives  among  the  mountain 
Ainos,  otherwise  authority  seems  to  be  his  only  priv- 
ilege. 

The  Ainos  have  a singular  dread  of  snakes.  Even 
theii:  bravest  fly  from  them.  One  man  says  that  it  is 
because  they  know  of  no  cure  for  their  bite,  but  there 
is  something  more  than  this,  for  they  flee  from  snakes 
which  they  know  to  be  harmless. 

They  have  an  equal  dread  of  their  dead.  Death 
seems  to  them  very  specially  “the  shadow  fear’d  of 
man.”  When  it  comes,  which  it  usually  does  from 
bronchitis  in  old  age,  the  corpse  is  dressed  in  its  best 
clothing,  and  laid  upon  a shelf  for  from  one  to  three 
days.  In  the  case  of  a woman  her  ornaments  are 
buried  with  her,  and  in  that  of  a man  his  knife  and 


108 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN' JAPAN. 


sa^^-stick,  and,  if  he  were  a smoker,  his  smoking  appa- 
ratus. The  corpse  is  sewn  up  with  these  things  in  a 
mat,  and,  being  slung  on  poles,  is  carried  to  a solitary 
grave,  where  it  is  laid  in  a recumbent  position.  Noth- 
ing will  induce  an  Aino  to  go  near  a grave.  Even  if  a 
valuable  bird  or  animal  falls  near  one,  he  will  not  go  to 
pick  it  up.  A vague  dread  is  for  ever  associated  with 
tlie  departed,  and  no  dream  of  Paradise  ever  lights  for 
the  Aino  the  “ Stygian  shades.” 

Benri  is,  for  an  Aino,  intelligent.  Two  years  ago 
Mr.  Dening  of  Hakodate  came  up  here  and  told  him 
that  there  was  but  one  God  who  made  us  all,  to  which 
the  shrewd  old  man  replied,  “If  the  God  who  made 
you  made  us,  how  is  it  that  you  are  so  different,  you  so 
rich,  we  so  poor  ? ” On  asking  him  about  the  magnifi- 
cent pieces  of  lacquer  and  inlaying  which  adorn  his 
curio  shelf,  he  said  that  they  were  his  father’s,  grand- 
father’s, and  great-grandfather’s  at  least,  and  he  thinks 
they  were  gifts  from  the  daimiyd  of  Matsumae  soon 
after  the  conquest  of  Yezo.  He  is  a grand-looking 
man,  in  spite  of  the  havoc  wrought  by  his  intemperate 
habits.  There  is  plenty  of  room  in  the  house,  and  this 
morning,  when  I asked  him  to  show  me  the  use  of  the 
spear,  he  looked  a truly  magnificent  savage,  stepping 
well  back  with  the  spear  in  rest,  and  then  springing 
forward  for  the  attack,  his  arms  and  legs  turning  into 
iron,  the  big  muscles  standing  out  in  knots,  his  frame 
quivering  with  excitement,  the  thick  hair  falling  back 
in  masses  from  his  brow,  and  the  fire  of  the  chase  in  his 
eye.  I trembled  for  my  boy,  who  was  the  object  of  the 
imaginary  onslaught,  the  passion  of  sport  was  so  admir- 
ably acted. 

As  I write,  seven  of  the  older  men  are  sitting  by  the 
fire.  Their  grey  beards  fall  to  their  waists  in  rippled 
masses,  and  the  slight  baldness  of  age  not  only  gives 


OLD  AGE. 


100 


\. 

them  a singularly  venerable  appearance,  but  enhances 
the  beauty  of  their  lofty  brows.  I took  a rough  sketch 
of  one  of  the  handsomest,  and  showing  it  to  hun,  asked 
if  he  would  have  it,  but  instead  of  being  amused,  or 
pleased  he  showed  symptoms  of  fear,  and  asked  me  to 
burn  it,  saying  it  would  bring  him  bad  luck,  and  he 
should  die.  However,  Ito  pacified  him,  and  he  accepted 
it,  after  a Chinese  character,  which  is  understood  to 
mean  good  luck,  had  been  written  upon  it,  but  all  the 
others  begged  me  not  to  “make  pictures”  of  them,  ex- 
cept Pipichari,  who  lies  at  my  feet  like  a staghound. 

The  profusion  of  black  hair,  and  a curious  intensity 
about  their  eyes,  coupled  with  the  hairy  limbs  and  sin 
gularly  vigorous  physique.,  give  them  a formidably  sav 
age  appearance,  but  the  smile,  full  of  “ sweetness  and 
light,”  in  which  both  eyes  and  mouth  bear  part,  and 
the  low,  musical  voice,  softer  and  sweeter  than  anything 
I have  previously  heard,  make  me  at  times  forget  that 
they  are  savages  at  all.  The  venerable  look  of  these 
old  men  harmonises  with  the  singular  dignity  and  cour- 
tesy of  their  manners,  but  as  I look  at  the  grand  heads, 
and  reflect  that  the  Ainos  have  never  shown  any  capa- 
city, and  are  merely  adult  children,  they  seem  to  suggest 
water  on  the  brain  rather  than  intellect.  I am  more 
and  more  convinced  that  the  expression  of  their  faces 
is  European.  It  is  truthful,  straightforward,  manly, 
but  both  it  and  the  tone  of  voice  are  strongly  tinged 
with  pathos. 

Before  these  elders  Benri  asked  me,  in  a severe  tone, 
if  I had,  been  annoyed  in  any  way  during  his  absence. 
He  feared,  he  said,  that  the  young  men  and  the  women 
would  crowd  about  me  rudely.  I made  a compliment- 
ary speech  in  return,  and  all  the  ancient  hands  were 
waved,  and  the  venerable  beards  were  stroked  in  ac- 
knowledgment. 


no 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


These  Ainos,  doubtless,  stand  high  among  uncivilised 
peoples.  They  are,  however,  as  completely  irreclaim- 
able as  th3  wildest  of  nomad  tribes,  and  contact  with 
civilisation,  where  it  exists,  only  debases  them.  Several 
young  Ainos  were  sent  to  T6kiy6,  and  educated  and 
trained  in  various  ways,  but  as  soon  as  they  returned 
to  Yezo  they  relapsed  into  savagery,  retaining  nothing 
but  a knowledge  of  Japanese.  They  are  chaiming  in 
many  ways,  but  make  one  sad,  too,  by  their  stupidity, 
apathy,  and  hopelessness,  and  all  the  sadder  that  their 
numbers  appear  to  be  again  increasing,  and  as  their 
physique  is  very  fine,  there  does  not  appear  to  be  a pros- 
pect of  the  race  dying  out  at  present. 

They  are  certainly  superior  to  many  aborigines,  as 
they  have  an  approach  to  domestic  life.  They  have 
one  word  for  house.,  and  another  for  home,  and  one  word 
for  husband  approaches  very  nearly  to  house-band. 
Truth  is  of  value  in  their  eyes,  and  this  in  itself  raises 
them  above  some  peoples.  Infanticide  is  unknown, 
and  aged  parents  receive  filial  reverence,  kindness,  and 
support,  while  in  their  social  and  domestic  relations 
there  is  much  that  is  praiseworthy. 

I must  conclude  this  letter  abruptly,  as  the  horses 
are  waiting,  and  I must  cross  the  rivers,  if  possible, 
before  the  bursting  of  an  impending  storm. 


I.  L.  B. 


A DELICACY. 


Ill 


A TIPSY  SCENE. 

A I irting  Gift  — A Delicacy  — Generosity  — A Seaside  Village  — 
Pipichari’s  Advice  — A Drunken  Revel  — Ito’s  Prophecies  — The 
Kocho's  Illness  — Patent  Medicines. 

Sabufuto,  Yezo,  August  27. 

I LEFT  the  Ainos  yesterday  with  real  regret,  though 
I must  confess  that  sleeping  in  one’s  clothes,  and  the 
lack  of  ablutions,  are  very  fatiguing.  Benri’s  two 
wives  spent  the  early  morning  in  the  laborious  opera- 
tion of  grinding  millet  into  coarse  flour,  and  before  I 
departed,  as  their  custom  is,  they  made  a paste  of  it, 
rolled  it  with  their  unclean  Angers  into  well-shaped 
cakes,  boiled  them  in  the  unwashed  pot  in  which  they 
make  their  stew  of  “ abominable  things,”  and  presented 
them  to  me  on  a lacquer  tray.  They  were  distressed 
that  I did  not  eat  their  food,  and  a woman  went  to  a 
village  at  some  distance  and  brought  me  some  venison 
fat  as  a delicacy.  All  those  of  whom  I had  seen  much 
came  to  wish  me  good-bye,  and  they  brought  so  many 
presents  (including  a flne  bearskin)  that  I should  have 
needed  an  additional  horse  to  carry  them  had  I ac- 
cepted but  one  half. 

I rode  twelve  miles  through  the  forest  to  Mombets, 
where  I intended  to  spend  Sunday,  but  I had  the  worst 
horse  I ever  rode,  and  we  took  five  hours.  The  day  was 
dull  and  sad,  threatening  a storm,  and  when  we  got  out 
of  the  forest,  upon  a sand-hill  covered  with  oak  scrub, 
we  encountered  a most  furious  wind.  Among  the  many 


112 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


views  which  I have  seen,  that  is  one  to  be  remembered. 
Below  lay  a bleached  and  bare  sand-hill,  with  a few  grey 
houses  huddled  in  its  miserable  shelter,  and  a heaped-up 
shore  of  grey  sand,  on  which  a brown-grey  sea  was 
breaking  with  clash  and  boom  in  long,  white,  ragged 
lines,  with  all  beyond  a confusion  of  surf,  surge,  and 
mist,  with  driving  brown  clouds  mingling  sea  and  sk}^, 
and  all  between  showing  only  in  glimpses  amidst  scuds 
of  sand. 

At  a house  in  the  scrub  a number  of  men  were  drink- 
ing sake  with  much  uproar,  and  a superb-looking  Aino 
came  out,  staggered  a few  yards,  and  then  fell  back- 
wards among  the  weeds,  a picture  of  debasement.  I 
forgot  to  tell  you  that  before  I left  Biratori,  I inveighed 
to  the  assembled  Ainos  against  the  practice  and  con- 
sequences of  sa^e-drinking,  and  was  met  with  the  reply, 
“We  must  drink  to  the  gods,  or  we  shall  die,”  but 
Pipichari  said,  “You  say  that  which  is  good;  let  us 
give  sakS  to  the  gods,  but  not  drink  it,”  for  which  bold 
speech  he  was  severely  rebuked  by  Benri. 

Mombets  is  a stormily-situated  and  most  wretched 
cluster  of  twenty-seven  decayed  houses,  some  of  them 
Aino,  and  some  Japanese.  The  fish-oil  and  seaweed 
fishing  trades  are  in  brisk  operation  there  now  for  a 
short  time,  and  a number  of  Aino  and  Japanese  stran- 
gers are  employed.  The  boats  could  not  get  out  be- 
cause of  the  surf,  and  there  was  a drunken  debauch. 
The  whole  place  smelt  of  sake.  Tipsy  men  were  stag- 
gering about  and  falling  fiat  on  their  backs,  to  lie  there 
like  dogs  till  they  were  sober,  — Aino  women  were 
vainly  endeavouring  to  drag  their  drunken  lords  home, 
and  men  of  both  races  were  reduced  to  a beastly  equal- 
ity. I went  to  the  yadoya  where  I intended  to  spend 
Sunday,  but  besides  being  very  dirty  and  forlorn,  it  was 
the  very  centre  of  the  sake  traffic,  and  in  its  open  space 


A CUAJVGU  OF  PLAN. 


113 


there  were  men  in  all  stages  of  riotous  and  stupid  in- 
toxication. It  was  a sad  scene,  yet  one  to  be  matched 
in  a hundred  places  in  Scotland  every  Saturday  after- 
noon. I am  told  by  the  KocJid  here  that  an  Aino  can 
drink  four  or  five  times  as  much  as  a Japanese  without 
being  tipsy,  so  for  each  tipsy  Aino  there  had  been  an 
outlay  of  6s.  or  7s.,  for  sake  is  8d.  a cup  here! 

I had  some  tea  and  eggs  in  the  daidokoro.^  and  altered 
my  plans  altogether,  on  finding  that  if  I proceeded  far- 
ther round  the  east  coast  as  I intended,  I should  run 
the  risk  of  several  days’  detention  on  the  banks  of  num- 
erous “ bad  rivers,”  if  rain  came  on,  by  which  I should 
run  the  risk  of  breaking  my  promise  to  deliver  Ito  to 
Mr.  Maries  by  a given  day.  I do  not  surrender  this 
project,  however,  without  an  equivalent,  for  I intend  to 
add  100  miles  to  my  journey,  by  taking  an  almost  dis- 
used track  round  Volcano  Bay,  and  visiting  the  coast 
Ainos  of  a very  primitive  region.  Ito  is  very  much 
opposed  to  this,  thinking  that  he  has  made  a sufficient 
sacrifice  of  personal  comfort  at  Biratori,  and  plies  me 
with  stories,  such  as  that  there  are  “ many  bad  rivers 
to  cross,”  that  the  track  is  so  worn  as  to  be  impassable, 
that  there  are  no  yadoyas^  and  that  at  the  Government 
offices  we  shall  neither  get  rice  nor  eggs  I An  old  man 
who  has  turned  back  unable  to  get  horses  is  made  re- 
sponsible for  these  stories.  The  machinations  are  very 
amusing.  Ito  was  much  smitten  with  the  daughter  of 
the  house-master  at  Mororan,  and  left  some  things  in 
her  keeping,  and  the  desire  to  see  her  again  is  at  the 
bottom  of  his  opposition  to  the  other  route. 

Monday.  — The  horse  could  not  or  would  not  carry 
me  farther  than  Mombets,  so,  sending  the  baggage  on, 
I walked  through  the  oak  wood,  and  enjoyed  its  silent 
solitude,  in  spite  of  the  sad  reflections  upon  the  enslave- 
ment of  the  Ainos  to  sake.  I spent  yesterday  quietly 


114 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


in  my  old  quarters,  with  a fearful  storm  of  wind  and 
rain  outside.  Pipichari  appeared  at  noon,  nominally 
to  bring  news  of  the  sick  woman,  who  is  recovering, 
and  to  have  his  nearly  healed  foot  bandaged  again,  but 
really  to  bring  me  a knife  sheath  which  he  has  carved 
for  me.  He  lay  on  the  mat  in  the  corner  of  my  room 
most  of  the  afternoon,  and  I got  a great  many  more 
words  from  him.  The  house-master,  who  is  the  Kdchd 
of  Sarufuto,  paid  me  a courteous  visit,  and  in  the  even- 
ing sent  to  say  that  he  would  be  very  glad  of  some 
medicine,  for  he  was  “ very  ill  and  going  to  have  fever.” 
He  had  caught  a bad  cold  and  sore  throat,  had  bad 
pains  in  his  limbs,  and  was  bemoaning  himself  ruefully. 
To  pacify  his  wife,  who  was  very  sorry  for  him,  I gave 
him  some  “Cockle’s  Pills,”  and  the  trapper’s  remedy 
of  “ a pint  of  hot  water  with  a pinch  of  cayenne  pepper,” 
and  left  him  moaning,  and  bundled  up  under  a pile  of 
futons.,  in  a nearly  hermetically  sealed  room,  with  a 
hihachi  of  charcoal  vitiating  the  air.  This  morning, 
when  I went  and  inquired  after  him  in  a properly  con- 
cerned tone,  his  wife  told  me  very  gleefully  that  he  was 
quite  well  and  had  gone  out,  and  had  left  25  sen  for 
some  more  of  the  medicines  that  I had  given  him,  so 
with  great  gravity  I put  up  some  of  Duncan  and  Flock- 
hart’s  most  pungent  cayenne  pepper,  and  showed  her 
how  much  to  use.  She  was  not  content,  however,  with- 
out some  of  the  “ Cockles,”  a single  box  of  which  has 
performed  six  of  those  “miraculous  cures”  which  re- 
joice the  hearts  and  fill  the  pockets  of  patent  medicine 
makers ' I.  L.  B. 


A WELCOME  GIFT, 


115 


VISIT  TO  A VOLCANO. 

A Welcome  Gift  — Recent  Changes  — Volcanic  Phenomena  — Inter- 
esting Tufa  Cones  — An  Aggressive  Trailer — Semi-strangulation 
— A Fall  into  a Bear-trap  — The  Shiraoi  Ainos  — Horsebreaking 
and  Cruelty. 

Old  Mororan,  Volcano  Bay,  Yezo,  September  2. 
After  the  storm  of  Sunday,  Monday  was  a grey,  still, 
tender  day,  and  the  ranges  of  wooded  hills  were  bathed 
in  the  richest  indigo  colouring.  A canter  of  seventeen 
miles  among  the  damask  roses  on  a very  rough  horse 
only  took  me  to  Yubets,  whose  indescribable  loneliness 
fascinated  me  into  spending  a night  there  again,  and 
encountering  a wild  clatter  of  wind  and  rain ; and 
another  canter  of  seven  miles  the  next  morning  took 
me  to  Tomakomai,  where  I rejoined  my  kuruma,,  and 
after  a long  delay,  three  trotting  Ainos  took  me  to 
Shiraoi,  where  the  “ clear  shining  after  rain,”  and  the 
mountains  against  a lemon-coloured  sky,  were  extreme- 
ly beautiful ; but  the  Pacific  was  as  unrestful  as  a 
guilty  thing,  and  its  crash  and  clamour  and  the  severe 
cold  fatigued  me  so  much  that  I did  not  pursue  my 
journey  the  next  day,  and  had  the  pleasure  of  a flying 
visit  from  Mr.  Von  Siebold  and  Count  Diesbach,  who 
bestowed  a chicken  upon  me. 

I like  Shirafii  very  much,  and  if  I were  stronger 
would  certainly  make  it  a basis  for  exploring  a part  of 
the  interior,  in  which  there  is  much  to  reward  the  ex- 
plorer. Obviously  the  changes  in  this  part  of  Yezc 
have  been  comparatively  recent,  and  the  energy  of  the 


116 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


force  whicli  has  produced  them  is  not  yet  extinct.  The 
land  has  gained  from  the  sea  along  the  whole  of  this 
part  of  the  coast  to  the  extent  of  two  or  three  miles, 
the  old  beach  with  its  bays  and  headlands  being  a 
marked  feature  of  the  landscape.  This  new  formation 
appears  to  be  a vast  bed  of  pumice,  covered  by  a thin 
layer  of  vegetable  mould,  which  cannot  be  more  than 
fifty  years  old.  This  pumice  fell  during  the  eruption  of 
the  volcano  of  Tarumai,  which  is  very  near  Shiraoi,  and 
is  also  brought  do'svn  in  large  quantities  from  the  inte- 
rior hills  and  valleys  by  the  numerous  rivers,  besides 
being  washed  up  by  the  sea.  At  the  last  eruption 
pumice  fell  over  this  region  of  Yezo  to  a medium 
depth  of  3 feet  6 inches.  In  nearly  all  the  rivers  good 
sections  of  the  formation  may  be  seen  in  their  deeply- 
cleft  banks,  broad,  light-coloured  bands  of  pumice,  with 
a few  inches  of  rich,  black,  vegetable  soil  above,  and 
several  feet  of  black  sea-sand  below.  During  a freshet 
which  occurred  the  first  night  I was  at  Shiraoi,  a single 
stream  covered  a piece  of  land  with  pumice  to  the  depth 
of  nine  inches,  being  the  wash  from  the  hills  of  the 
interior,  in  a course  of  less  than  fifteen  miles. 

Looking  inland,  the  volcano  of  Tarumai,  with  a bare 
grey  top  and  a blasted  forest  on  its  sides,  occupies  the 
right  of  the  picture.  To  the  left  and  inland  are 
mountains  within  mountains,  tumbled  together  in  most 
picturesque  confusion,  densely  covered  with  forest  and 
cleft  by  magnificent  ravines,  here  and  there  opening 
out  into  narrow  valleys.  The  whole  of  the  interior 
is  jungle,  penetrable  for  a few  miles  by  shallow  and 
rapid  rivers,  and  by  nearly  smothered  trails  made  by 
the  Ainos  in  search  of  game.  The  general  lie  of  the 
country  made  me  very  anxious  to  find  out  whether  a 
much-broken  ridge  lying  among  the  mountains  is  or  is 
not  a series  of  tufa  cones  of  ancient  date ; and  apply- 


VOLCANIC  PHENOMENA. 


117 


ing  for  a good  horse  and  Aino  guide  on  horseback,  I 
left  Ito  to  amuse  himself,  and  spent  much  of  a most 
splendid  day  in  investigations  and  in  attempting  to  get 
round  the  back  of  the  volcano  and  up  its  inland  side. 
There  is  a great  deal  to  see  and  learn  there.  Oh  that 
I had  strength ! After  hours  of  most  tedious  and  ex- 
hausting work  I reached  a point  where  there  were  sev- 
eral great  fissures  emitting  smoke  and  steam,  with 
occasional  subterranean  detonations.  These  were  on 
the  side  of  a small,  flank  crack  which  was  smoking 
heavily.  There  was  light  pumice  everywhere,  but 
nothing  like  recent  lava  or  scoriae.  One  fissure  was 
completely  lined  with  exquisite,  acicular  crystals  of 
sulphur,  which  perished  with  a touch.  Lower  down 
there  were  two  hot  springs  with  a deposit  of  sulphur 
round  their  margins,  and  bubbles  of  gas,  which,  from 
its  strong,  garlicky  smell,  I suppose  to  be  sulphuretted 
hydrogen.  Farther  pi’ogress  in  that  direction  was  im- 
possible without  a force  of  pioneers.  I put  my  arm 
down  several  deep  crevices  which  were  at  an  altitude 
of  only  about  500  feet,  and  had  to  withdraw  it  at  once, 
owing  to  the  great  heat,  in  which  some  beautiful  speci- 
mens of  tropical  ferns  were  growing.  At  the  same 
height  I came  to  a hot  spring  — hot  enough  to  burst 
one  of  my  thermometers,  which  was  graduated  above  the 
boiling  point  of  Fahrenheit ; and  tying  up  an  egg  in  a 
pocket-handkerchief  and  holding  it  by  a stick  in  the 
water,  it  was  hard  boiled  in  8^  minutes.  The  water 
evaporated  without  leaving  a trace  of  deposit  on  the 
handkerchief,  and  there  was  no  crust  round  its  margin. 
It  boiled  and  bubbled  with  great  force. 

Three  hours  more  of  exhausting  toil,  which  almost 
knocked  up  the  horses,  brought  us  to  the  apparent 
lidge,  and  I was  delighted  to  find  that  it  consisted  of  a 
lateral  range  of  tufa  cones,  which  I estimate  as  being 


118 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


from  200  to  350,  or  even  400  feet  high.  They  are 
densely  covered  with  trees  of  considerable  age,  and  a 
rich  deposit  of  mould;  but  their  conical  form  is  still 
admirably  defined.  An  hour  of  very  severe  work,  and 
energetic  use  of  the  knife  on  the  part  of  the  Aino,  took 
me  to  the  top  of  one  of  these  through  a mass  of  entan- 
gled and  gigantic  vegetation,  and  I was  amply  repaid 
by  finding  a deep,  well-defined  crateriform  cavity  of 
great  depth,  with  its  sides  richly  clothed  with  vegeta- 
tion, closely  resembling  some  of  the  old  cones  in  the 
island  of  Kauai.  This  cone  is  partially  girdled  by  a 
stream,  which  in  one  place  has  cut  through  a bank  of 
both  red  and  black  volcanic  ash.  All  the  usual  phe- 
nomena of  volcanic  regions  are  probably  to  be  met 
with  north  of  Sbiraoi,  and  I hope  they  will  at  some 
future  time  be  made  the  object  of  careful  investigation. 

In  spite  of  the  des]3erate  and  almost  overwhelming 
fatigue,  I have  enjoyed  few  things  more  than  that  “ ex- 
ploring expedition.”  If  the  Japanese  have  no  one  to 
talk  to  they  croon  hideous  discords  to  themselves, 
and  it  was  a relief  to  leave  Ito  behind  and  get  away 
with  an  Aino,  who  was  at  once  silent,  trustworthy,  and 
faithful.  Two  bright  rivers  bubbling  over  beds  of  red 
pebbles  run  down  to  Sbiraoi  out  of  the  back  country, 
and  my  directions,  which  were  translated  to  the  Aino, 
were  to  follow  up  one  of  these  and  go  into  the  moun- 
tains in  the  direction  of  one  I pointed  out  till  I said 
“ Sbiraoi.”  It  was  one  of  those  exquisite  mornings  which 
are  seen  sometimes  in  the  Scotch  Highlands  before  rain, 
with  intense  clearness  and  visibility,  a blue  atmosphere, 
a cloudless  sky,  blue  summits,  heavy  dew,  and  glorious 
sunshine,  and  under  these  circumstances  scenery  beau- 
tiful in  itself  became  entrancing. 

The  forest  is  a true  forest,  extending  northwards  for 
over  100  miles,  with  unknown  eastern  and  western 


AGGRESSIVE  LIANAS. 


119 


limits.  The  principal  trees  are  two  species  of  oak, 
three  varieties  of  maple,  beeches  of  enormous  size,  ash 
and  elm,  all  entangled  by  a wild  vine  with  enormous 
cordate  leaves  and  a redundant  vigour  which  is  almost 
irritating.  A most  aggressive  trailer  it  is.  It  goes  up 
to  the  tops  of  the  tallest  trees,  and,  not  content  with 
overrunning  them,  leaps  from  one  tree  top  to  anoiher, 
clothes  dead  trees  with  more  than  their  living  beauty, 
twists,  loops,  and  knots  itself  as  if  it  did  not  know 
what  to  do  with  its  strength,  crushes  feeble  trees  in  its 
embrace,  hangs  loops  and  nooses  down  everywhere, 
makes  arbours,  disports  itself,  runs  altogether  riot,  and 
is  at  once  the  pride  and  the  peril  of  the  forest.  Some  of 
its  stems  are  as  thick  as  a man’s  leg,  and  will  bear  a 
heavier  strain,  they  say,  than  a frigate’s  best  hawser. 
Then  there  is  a trailer  of  the  hydrangea  genus,  with 
clusters  of  white  blossoms,  which  is  not  riotous,  and 
contents  itself  with  climbing  to  the  top  of  the  tallest 
trees,  and  clinging  to  them  with  the  tenacity  of  ivy, 
besides  the  wild  hop,  and  the  mistletoe  growing  on 
oaks,  and  many  others  less  striking.  The  undergrowth 
is  composed  mainly  of  ugly  weeds  six  feet  liigh,  and  in 
some  places  solely  of  the  dwarf,  dark-leaved  bamboo. 
In  the  openings  the  ground  is  covered  densely  with  a 
plumed,  reed-like  grass,  the  Eulalia  Japonica^  which  in 
that  rich  soil  attains  a height  of  eight  feet : and  bamboo 
and  grass  would  be  equally  impossible  to  penetrate 
without  the  use  of  the  bill-hook,  were  it  not  for  the 
remains  of  the  trails  made  by  Aino  hunters. 

The  trailers  are  so  formidable  that  we  had  to  stoop 
over  our  horses’  necks  at  all  times,  and  with  pushing 
back  branches  and  guarding  my  face  from  slaps  and 
scratches,  my  thick  dogskin  gloves  were  literally  frayed 
off,  and  some  of  the  skin  of  my  hands  and  face  in  addi- 
tion, so  that  I returned  with  both  bleeding  and  swelled. 


120 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


It  was  on  the  return  ride  fortunately  that,  in  stooping 
to  escape  one  great  liana  the  loop  of  another  grazed  my 
nose,  and,  being  unable  to  check  my  unbroken  horse  in- 
stantaneously, the  loop  caught  me  by  the  throat,  nearly 
strangled  nie,  and  in  less  time  than  it  takes  to  tell  it  I 
was  drawn  over  the  back  of  the  saddle,  and  found  my- 
self lying  on  the  ground,  jammed  between  a tree  and 
the  hind  leg  of  the  horse,  which  was  quietly  feeding. 
The  Aino,  whose  face  was  badly  scratched,  missing 
me,  came  back,  said  never  a word,  helped  me  up,  brought 
me  some  water  in  a leaf,  brought  my  hat,  and  we  rode 
on  again.  I was  little  the  worse  for  the  fall,  but  on 
borrowing  a looking-glass  I see  not  only  scratches  and 
abrasions  all  over  my  face,  but  a livid  mark  round  my 
throat  as  if  I had  been  hung ! The  Aino  left  portions 
of  his  bushy  locks  on  many  of  the  branches.  You 
would  have  been  amused  to  see  me  in  this  forest,  pre- 
ceded by  this  hairy  and  formidable-looking  savage,  who 
was  dressed  in  a coat  of  skins  with  the  fur  outside, 
seated  on  the  top  of  a pack-saddle  covered  with  a deer 
hide,  and  with  his  hairy  legs  crossed  over  the  horse’s 
neck,  a fashion  in  which  the  Ainos  ride  any  horses  over 
any  ground  with  the  utmost  serenity. 

It  was  a wonderful  region  for  beauty.  I have  not 
seen  so  beautiful  a view  in  Japan  as  from  the  river-bed 
from  which  I had  the  first  near  view  of  the  grand  as- 
semblage of  tufa  cones,  covered  with  an  ancient  vegeta- 
tion, backed  by  high  mountains  of  volcanic  origin,  on 
whose  ragged  crests  the  red  ash  was  blazing  vermilion 
against  the  blue  sky,  with  a foreground  of  bright  waters 
flashing  through  a primeval  forest.  The  banks  of  these 
streams  were  deeply  excavated  by  the  heavy  rains,  and 
sometimes  we  had  to  jump  three  and  even  four  feet  out 
of  the  forest  into  the  river,  and  as  much  up  again,  fording 
the  Shiraoi  river  only  more  than  twenty  times,  and  often 


AN  OLD  BEAR-TRAP. 


121 


making  a pathway  of  its  treacherous  bed  and  rushing 
waters,  because  the  forest  was  impassable  from  the 
great  size  of  the  prostrate  trees.  The  horses  look  at 
these  jumps,  hold  back,  try  to  turn,  and  then,  making 
up  their  minds,  suddenly  plunge  down  or  up.  When 
t he  last  vestige  of  a trail  disappeared,  I signed  to  the 
Aino  to  go  on,  and  our  subsequent  “ exploration  ” was 
all  done  at  the  rate  of  about  a mile  an  hour.  On  the 
openings  the  grass  grows  stiff  and  strong  to  the  height 
of  eight  feet,  with  its  soft  reddish  plumes  waving  in  the 
breeze.  The  Aino  first  forced  his  horse  through  it,  but 
of  course  it  closed  again,  so  that  constantly  when  he 
was  close  in  front  I was  only  aware  of  his  proximity  by 
the  tinkling  of  his  horse’s  bells,  for  I saw  nothing  of 
him  or  of  my  own  horse  except  the  horn  of  my  saddle. 
We  tumbled  into  holes  often,  and  as  easily  tumbled  out 
of  them ; but  once  we  both  went  down  in  the  most  un- 
expected manner  into  what  must  have  been  an  old  bear- 
trap,  both  going  over  our  horses’  heads,  the  horses  and 
ourselves  struggling  together  in  a narrow  space  in  a 
mist  of  grassy  plumes,  and  being  unable  to  communi- 
cate with  my  guide,  the  sense  of  the  ridiculous  situa- 
tion was  so  overpowering  that,  even  in  the  midst  of  the 
mishap,  I was  exhausted  with  laughter,  though  not  a 
little  bruised.  It  was  very  hard  to  get  out  of  that  pit- 
fall,  and  I hope  I shall  never  get  into  one  again.  It  is 
not  the  first  occasion  on  which  I have  been  glad  that 
the  Yezo  horses  are  shoeless.  It  was  through  this  long 
grass  that  we  fought  our  way  to  the  tufa  cones,  with 
the  red,  ragged  crests  against  the  blue  sky. 

The  scenery  was  magnificent,  and  after  getting  so  far, 
I longed  to  explore  the  sources  of  the  rivers,  but  be- 
sides the  many  difficulties  the  day  was  far  spent.  I was 
also  too  weak  for  any  energetic  undertaking,  yet  I felt 
an  intuitive  perception  of  the  passion  and  fascination 


122 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


of  exploring,  and  understood  how  people  could  gh  e uj) 
their  lives  to  it.  I turned  away  from  the  tufa  cones 
and  the  glory  of  the  ragged  crests  very  sadly,  to  ride  a 
tired  horse  through  great  difficulties;  and  the  animal 
was  so  thoroughl}"  done  up  that  I had  to  walk  or  rather 
wade  for  the  last  hour,  and  it  was  nightfall  when  I re- 
turned, to  find  that  Ito  had  packed  up  all  my  things, 
l^ad  been  waiting  ever  since  noon  to  start  for  Horobets, 
was  very  grumpy  at  having  to  unpack,  and  thorougldy 
disgusted  when  I told  him  that  I was  so  tired  and 
bruised  that  I should  have  to  remain  the  next  day  to 
rest.  He  said  indignantly,  “ I never  thought  that  when 
you’d  got  the  Kaitakushi  kuruma  you’d  go  off  the  road 
into  those  woods  ! ” We  had  seen  some  deer  and  many 
pheasants,  and  a successful  hunter  brought  in  a fine 
stag,  so  that  I had  venison  steak  for  supper,  and  was 
much,  comforted,  though  Ito  seasoned  the  meal  with 
well-go t-up  stories  of  the  impracticability  of  the  Vol- 
cano Bay  route. 

Shira6i  consists  of  a large  old  Honjin.,  or  yadoya., 
where  the  daimiyo  and  his-  train  used  to  lodge  in  the 
old  days,  and  about  eleven  Japanese  houses,  most  of 
which  are  sakS  shops,  a fact  which  supplies  an  explana- 
tion of  the  squalor  of  the  Aino  village  of  fifty-two 
houses,  which  is  on  the  shore  at  a respectful  distance. 
There  is  no  cultivation,  in  which  it  is  like  all  the  fish- 
ing villages  on  this  part  of  the  coast,  but  fish-oil 
and  fish-manure  are  made  in  immense  quantities,  and 
though  it  is  not  the  season  here,  the  place  is  pervaded 
by  “ an  ancient  and  fish-like  smell.” 

The  Aino  houses  are  much  smaller,  poorer,  and  dirtier 
than  those  of  Biratori.  I went  into  a number  of  them, 
and  conversed  with  the  people,  many  of  whom  under- 
stand Japanese.  Some  of  the  houses  looked  like  dens, 
and,  as  it  was  raining,  husband,  wife,  and  five  or  six 


JAPANESE  HORSEBEEAKING. 


123 


Qaked  children,  all  as  dirty  as  they  could  be,  with  un- 
kempt, elf-like  locks,  were  huddled  round  the  fires. 
Still,  bad  as  it  looked  and  smelt,  the  fire  was  the  hearth, 
and  the  hearth  was  inviolate,  and  each  smoked  and  dirt- 
stained  group  was  a family,  and  it  was  an  advance  upon 
the  social  life  of,  for  instance.  Salt  Lake  City.  The 
roofs  are  much  flatter  than  those  of  the  mountain 
Ainos,  and  as  there  are  few  store-houses,  quantities  of 
fish,  “ green  ” skins,  and  venison,  hang  from  the  rafters, 
and  the  smell  of  these  and  the  stinging  of  the  smoke 
were  most  trying.  Few  of  the  houses  had  any  guest- 
seats,  but  in  the  very  poorest,  when  I asked  shelter 
from  the  rain,  they  put  their  best  mat  upon  the  ground, 
and  insisted,  much  to  my  distress,  on  my  walking  ove 
it  in  muddy  boots,  saying,  “It  is  Aino  custom.”  Even 
in  those  squalid  homes  the  broad  shelf,  with  its  rows 
of  Japanese  curios,  always  has  a place.  I mentioned 
that  it  is  customary  for  a chief  to  appoint  a successor 
when  he  becomes  infirm,  and  I came  upon  a case  in 
point,  through  a mistaken  direction,  which  took  us  to 
the  house  of  the  former  chief,  with  a great  empty  bear 
cage  at  its  door.  On  addressing  him  as  the  chief,  he 
said,  “ I am  old  and  blind,  I cannot  go  out,  I am  of  no 
more  good,”  and  directed  us  to  the  house  of  his  suc- 
cessor. Altogether  it  is  obvious,  from  many  evidences 
in  this  village,  that  Japanese  contiguity  is  hurtful,  and 
that  the  Ainos  have  reaped  abundantly  of  the  disad- 
vantages without  the  advantages  of  contact  with  Jap- 
anese civilisation. 

That  night  I saw  a specimen  of  Japanese  horse-break- 
ing as  practised  in  Yezo.  A Japanese  brought  into 
the  village  street  a handsome,  spirited  young  horse, 
equipped  with  a Japanese  demi-pique  saddle,  and  a 
most  cruel  gag  bit.  The  man  wore  very  cruel  spurs, 
and  was  armed  with  a bit  of  stout  board  two  feet  long 


124 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


by  six  inches  broad.  The  horse  had  not  been  mounted 
before,  and  was  frightened,  but  not  the  least  vicious. 
He  was  spurred  into  a gallop,  and  ridden  at  full  speed 
up  and  down  the  street,  turned  by  main  force,  thrown 
on  his  haunches,  goaded  with  the  spurs,  and  cowed  by 
being  mercilessly  thrashed  over  the  ears  and  eyes  with 
the  piece  of  board,  till  he  was  blinded  with  blood. 
Whenever  he  tried  to  stop  from  exhaustion,  he  was 
spurred,  jerked,  and  flogged,  till  at  last,  covered  with 
sweat,  foam,  and  blood,  and  with  blood  running  from 
his  mouth  and  splashing  the  road,  he  reeled,  staggered, 
and  fell,  the  rider  dexterously  disengaging  himself.  As 
soon  as  he  was  able  to  stand,  he  was  allowed  to  crawl 
into  a shed,  where  he  Avas  kept  without  food  till  morn- 
ing, when  a child  could  do  anything  Avith  him.  He  was 
“ broken,”  effectually  spirit-broken,  useless  for  the  rest 
of  his  life.  It  was  a brutal  and  brutalising  exhibition, 
as  triumphs  of  brute  force  always  are. 


THE  UNIVEBSAL  LANGUAGE, 


125 


A WET  TRIP. 

The  Universal  Language  — The  Yezo  Corrals — A “Typhoon  Kain” 
— Difficult  Tracks  — An  Unenviable  Kide  — Drying  Clothes  — A 
Woman’s  Kemorse. 

This  morning  I left  early  in  the  huruma  with  two 
kind  and  delightful  savages.  The  road  being  much 
broken  by  the  rains,  I had  to  get  out  frequently,  and 
every  time  I got  in  again  they  put  my  air-pillow  behind 
me,  and  covered  me  up  in  a blanket ; and  when  we  got 
to  a rough  river,  one  made  a step  of  his  back  by  which 
I mounted  their  horse,  and  gave  me  nooses  of  rope  to 
hold  on  by,  and  the  other  held  my  arm  to  keep  me 
steady,  and  they  would  not  let  me  walk  up  or  down  any 
of  the  hills.  What  a blessing  it  is  that,  amidst  the  con- 
fusion of  tongues,  the  language  of  kindness  and  cour- 
tesy is  universally  understood,  and  that  a kindly  smile 
on  a savage  face  is  as  intelligible  as  on  that  of  one’s 
own  countryman ! They  had  never  drawn  a Tcuruma^ 
and  were  as  pleased  as  children  when  I showed  them 
how  to  balance  the  shafts.  They  were  not  without  the 
capacity  to  originate  ideas,  for  when  they  were  tired  of 
the  frolic  of  pulling,  they  attached  the  huruma  by  ropes 
to  the  horse,  which  one  of  them  rode  at  a “ scramble,” 
while  the  other  merely  ran  in  the  shafts  to  keep  them 
level.  This  is  an  excellent  plan. 

Horobets  is  a fishing  station  of  antique  and  decayed 
aspect,  with  eighteen  Japanese  and  forty-seven  Aino 
houses.  The  latter  are  jnuch  larger  than  at  Shiraoi, 


126 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


and  tlieir  very  steep  roofs  are  beautifully  constructed. 
-It  was  a miserable  day,  with  fog  concealing  the  moun- 
tains and  lying  heavily  on  the  sea,  but  as  no  one  ex- 
pected, rain,  I sent  the  kuruma  back  to  Mororan  and 
secured  horses.  On  principle  I always  go  to  the  corral 
myself  to  choose  animals,  if  possible,  without  sore 
backs,  but  the  choice  is  often  between  one  with  a mere 
raw,,  and  others  which  have  holes  in  their  backs  into 
which  I could  put  my  hand,  or  altogether  uncovered 
spines.  The  practice  does  no  immediate  good,  but  by 
showing  the  Japanese  that  foreign  opinion  condemns 
these  cruelties  an  amendment  may  eventually  be 
brought  about.  At  Horobets,  among  twenty  horses, 
there  was  not  one  that  I would  take,  — I should  like  to 
have  had  them  all  shot.  They  are  cheap  and  abundant, 
and  are  of  no  account.  They  drove  a number  more 
down  from  the  hills,  and  I chose  the  largest  and  finest 
horse  I have  seen  in  Japan,  with  some  spirit  and  action, 
but  I soon  found  that  he  had  tender  feet.  We  shortly 
left  the  high-road,  and  in  torrents  of  rain  turned  off  on 
“ unbeaten  tracks,”  which  led  us  through  a very  bad 
swamp  and  some  much  swollen  and  very  rough  rivers 
into  the  mountains,  where  we  followed  a worn-out  track 
for  eight  miles.  It  was  literally  '•’•foul  weather,”  dark 
and  still,  with  a brown  mist,  and  rain  falling  in  sheets. 
I threw  my  paper  waterproof  away  as  useless,  my 
clothes  were  of  course  soaked,  and  it  was  with  much 
difficulty  that  I kept  my  shomon  and  paper  money  from 
being  reduced  to  pulp.  Typhoons  are  not  known  so  far 
north  as  Yezo,  but  it  was  what  they  call  a “ typhoon 
rain  ” without  the  typhoon,  and  in  no  time  it  turned 
the  streams  into  torrents  barely  fordable,  and  tore  up 
such  of  a road  as  there  is,  which  at  its  best  is  a mere  wa- 
ter-channel. Torrents,  bringing  tolerable-sized  stones, 
tore  down  the  track,  and  when  the  horses  had  been 


AN  UNENVIABLE  BIDE. 


127 


struck  two  or  three  times  by  these,  it  was  with  difficulty 
that  they  could  be  induced  to  face  the  rushing  water. 
Constantly  in  a pass,  the  water  had  gradually  cut  a 
track  several  feet  deep  between  steep  banks,  and  the 
only  possible  walking  place  was  a stony  gash  not  wide 
enough  for  the  two  feet  of  a horse  alongside  of  eacli 
other,  down  which  water  and  stones  were  rushing  from 
behind,  with  all  manner  of  trailers  matted  overhead, 
and  between  avoiding  being  strangled  and  attempting 
to  keep  a tender-footed  horse  on  his  legs,  the  ride  was  a 
very  severe  one.  The  poor  animal  fell  five  times  from 
stepping  on  stones,  and  in  one  of  his  falls  twisted  my 
left  wrist  badly.  I thought  of  the  many  people  who 
envied  me  my  tour  in  Japan,  and  wondered  whether 
they  would  envy  me  that  ride  ! 

After  this  had  gone  on  for  four  hours,  the  track,  with 
a sudden  dip  over  a hill-side,  came  down  on  Old  Moro- 
ran,  a village  of  thirty  Aino  and  nine  Japanese  houses, 
very  unpromising-looking,  although  exquisitely  situated 
on  the  rim  of  a lovely  cove.  The  Aino  huts  were 
small  and  poor,  with  an  unusual  number  of  bear  skulls 
on  poles,  and  the  village  consisted  mainly  of  two  long 
dilapidated  buildings,  in  which  a number  of  men  were 
mending  nets.  It  looked  a decaying  place,  of  low,  mean 
lives.  But  at  a “ merchant’s  ” there  was  one  delightful 
room  with  two  translucent  sides  — one  opening  on  the 
village,  the  other  looking  to  the  sea  down  a short,  steep 
slope,  on  which  is  a quaint  little  garden,  with  dwarfed 
fir-trees  in  pots,  a few  balsams,  and  a red  cabbage  grown 
with  much  pride  as  a “ foliage  plant.” 

It  is  nearly  midnight,  but  my  bed  and  bedding  are  so 
wet  that  I am  still  sitting  up  and  drying  them,  patch  by 
patch,  with  tedious  slowness,  on  a wooden  frame  placed 
over  a charcoal  brazier,  which  has  given  my  room  the 
dryness  and  warmth  which  are  needed  when  a person 


128 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


has  been  for  many  hours  in  soaked  clothing,  and  has 
nothing  really  dry  to  put  on.  Ito  bought  a chicken  for 
my  supper,  but  when  he  was  going  to  kill  it  an  hour 
later,  its  owner  in  much  grief  returned  the  money,  say- 
ing she*  had  brought  it  up,  and  could  not  bear  to  see  it 
killed.  This  is  a wild,  outlandish  place,  but  an  intuition 
tells  me  that  it  is  beautiful.  The  ocean  at  present  is 
thundering  up  the  beach  with  the  sullen  force  of  a heavy 
ground  swell,  and  the  rain  is  still  falling  in  torrents. 

I.  L.B. 


A PERFECT  DAY. 


129 


A SURPRISE. 

“More  than  Peace  ” — Geographical  Difficulties  — Usu-taki  — A Gar* 
den  Kegion  — Swimming  the  Osharii  — A Dream  of  Beauty  — A 
Sunset  Effect  — A Nocturnal  Alarm  — The  Coast  Ainos. 

Lebunge,  Volcano  Bay,  Yezo,  September  6. 

“ Weary  wave  and  dying  blast 
Sob  and  moan  along  the  shore, 

All  is  peace  at  last.” 

And  more  than  peace.  It  was  a heavenly  morning. 
The  deep  blue  sky  was  perfectly  unclouded,  a blue  sea 
with  diamond  flash  and  a “ many-twinlding  smile  ” rip- 
pled gently  on  the  golden  sands  of  the  lovely  little  bay, 
and  opposite,  forty  miles  away,  the  pink  summit  of  the 
volcano  of  Komono-taki,  forming  the  south-western  point 
of  Volcano  Bay,  rose  into  a softening  veil  of  tender  blue 
haze.  There  was  a balmy  breeziness  in  the  air,  and 
tawny  tints  upon  the  hill,  patches  of  gold  in  the  woods, 
and  a scarlet  spray  here  and  there  heralded  the  glories 
of  the  advancing  autumn.  As  the  day  began,  so  it 
closed.  I should  like  to  have  detained  each  hour  as  it 
passed.  It  was  thorough  enjoyment.  I visited  a good 
many  of  the  Mororan  Ainos,  saw  their  well-grown  bear 
in  its  cage,  and  tearing  myself  away  with  difficulty  at 
noon,  crossed  a steep  hill  and  a wood  of  scrub  oak,  and 
then  followed  a trail  which  runs  on  the  amber  sands 
close  to  the  sea,  crosses  several  small  streams,  and  passes 
the  lonely  Aino  village  of  Maripu,  the  ocean  always  on 
the  left  and  wooded  ranges  on  the  right,  and  in  front  an 


130 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


apparent  bar  to  farther  progress  in  the  volcano  of  Usu- 
taki,  an  imposing  mountain,  rising  abruptly  to  a height 
of  nearly  3000  feet,  I should  think. 

In  Yezo,  as  on  the  main  island,  one  can  learn  very 
little  about  any  prospective  route.  Usually  when  one 
makes  an  inquiry,  a Japanese  puts  on  a stupid  look, 
giggles,  tucks  his  thumbs  into  his  girdle,  bitches  up  his 
garments,  and  either  professes  perfect  ignorance,  or  gives 
one  some  vague  second-hand  information,  though  it  is 
quite  possible  that  he  may  have  been  over  every  foot 
of  the  ground  himself  more  than  once.  Whether  suspi- 
cion of  your  motives  in  asking,  or  a fear  of  compromising 
himself  by  answering,  is  at  the  bottom  of  this,  I don’t 
know,  but  it  is  most  exasperating  to  a traveller.  In 
Hakodate  I failed  to  see  Captain  Blakiston,  who  has 
walked  round  the  whole  Yezo  sea-board,  and  all  I was 
able  to  learn  regarding  this  route  was  that  the  coast 
was  thinly-peopled  by  Ainos,  that  there  were  Govern- 
ment horses  which  could  be  got,  and  that  one  could 
sleep  where  one  got  them ; that  rice  and  salt  fish  were 
the  only  food  ; that  there  were  many  “ bad  rivers,”  and 
that  the  road  went  over  “ bad  mountains ; ” that  the 
only  people  who  went  that  way  were  Government 
officials  twice  a 3^ear,  that  one  could  not  get  on  more 
than  four  miles  a day,  that  the  roads  over  the  passes 
were  “ all  big  stones,”  etc.  etc.  So  this  Usu-taki  took 
me  altogether  by  surprise,  and  for  a time  confounded  all 
my  carefully-constructed  notions  of  locality.  I had  been 
told  that  the  one  volcano  in  the  bay  was  Komono-taki, 
near  INIori,  and  this  I believed  to  be  eighty  miles  off,  and 
there,  confronting  me,  within  a distance  of  two  miles, 
was  this  grand,  splintered,  vermilion-crested  thing,  with 
a far  nobler  aspect  than  that  of  “ the  ” volcano,  with  a 
curtain  range  in  front,  deeply  scored,  and  slashed  with 
ravines  and  abysses  whose  purple  gloom  was  unlighted 


GARDEN  CULTIVATION. 


131 


even  by  the  noonday  sun.  One  of  the  peaks  was  emit- 
ting black  smoke  from  a deep  crater,  another,  steam  and 
white  smoke  from  various  rents  and  fissures  in  its  side, 
vermilion  peaks,  smoke,  and  steam,  all  rising  into  a sky 
of  brilliant  blue,  and  the  atmosphere  was  so  clear  that  I 
saw  everything  that  was  going  on  there  quite  distinctly, 
especially  when  I attained  an  altitude  exceeding  that 
of  the  curtain  range.  It  was  not  for  two  days  that  I 
got  a correct  idea  of  its  geographical  situation,  but  I 
was  not  long  in  finding  out  that  it  was  not  Komono- 
taki ! There  is  much  volcanic  activity  about  it.  I saw 
a glare  from  it  last  night  thirty  miles  away.  The  Ainos 
said  that  it  was  “ a god,”  but  did  not  know  its  name, 
nor  did  the  Japanese  who  were  living  under  its  shadow. 
At  some  distance  from  it  in  the  interior  rises  a great 
dome-like  mountain,  Shiribetsan,  and  the  whole  view  is 
grand. 

After  passing  through  miles  of  scrub  and  sand  we 
came  quite  suddenly  upon  the  agricultural  settlement 
of  Mombets,  where  the  Government  lias  placed  a colo- 
ny of  600  Japanese,  and  the  verses  apply,  “ The  valleys 
are  so  thick  with  corn  that  they  laugh  and  sing  — the 
wilderness  and  the  solitary  place  shall  be  glad  for  them, 
and  the  desert  shall  rejoice  and  blossom  as  the  rose.” 
For  two  miles,  careful  manuring  and  assiduous  hand 
labour  have  turned  a sandy  waste  into  a garden,  a sea 
of  crops  without  a weed,  hundreds  of  acres  of  maize, 
wheat,  millet,  beans,  tobacco,  hemp,  egg  plants,  peaches, 
apricots,  pumpkins,  and  all  the  good  things  of  North- 
ern Japan,  beautiful  and  lu:5j;uriant,  with  a good  bridle 
road,  fenced  from  the  crops  by  a closely-cropped  willow 
hedge,  and  numbers  of  small,  neat  Japanese  houses, 
with  gardens  bright  with  portulaccas,  red  balsams,  and 
small  yellow  chrysanthemums,  all  glowing  in  the  sun- 
shine, a perfect  oasis,  showing  the  resources  which 


132 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


Yezo  possesses  for  the  sustenance  of  a large  popula- 
tion. 

I have  not  seen  above  three  or  four  Japanese  together 
since  I left  Hakodate,  and  I was  much  impressed  with 
their  ugliness,  the  lack  of  force  in  their  faces,  and  the 
feeble  physique  of  both  men  and  women,  as  compared 
with  that  of  the  aborigines.  The  Yezo  Japanese  don’t 
look  altogether  like  the  Japanese  of  the  main  island. 
They  are  as  the  colonists  of  Canada  or  Australia  as 
compared  with  the  small  farmers  of  England,  rougher, 
freer,  more  careless  in  their  dress  and  deportment,  and 
they  are  certainly  affected,  as  people  always  are,  by  the 
cheapness  and  abundance  of  horses,  which  they  ride 
cross-legged,  in  imitation  of  the  Ainos.  Till  I reached 
Mombets,  all  the  Japanese  I have  seen  have  led  a life 
of  irregular  and  precarious  industry,  very  different  from 
that  of  the  peasant  proprietors  of  the  main  island ; and 
in  the  dull  time  they  loaf  and  hang  about  “grog  shops” 
not  a little,  and  are  by  no  means  improved  by  the  habit 
of  lording  it  over  an  inferior  race. 

A little  beyond  Mombets  flows  the  river  Osharu, 
one  of  the  largest  of  the  Yezo  streams.  It  was  much 
swollen  by  the  previous  day’s  rain;  and  as  the  ferry- 
boat was  carried  away,  we  had  to  swim  it,  and  the 
swim  seemed  very  long.  Of  course,  we  and  the  bag- 
gage got  very  wet.  The  coolness  with  which  the  Aino 
guide  took  to  the  water  without  giving  us  any  notice 
that  its  broad,  eddying  flood  was  a swim,  and  not  a 
ford,  was  very  amusing. 

From  the  top  of  a steepj^h  ascent  beyond  the  Osha- 
rugawa,  there  is  a view  into  what  looks  like  a very 
lovely  lake,  with  wooded  promontories,  and  little  bays, 
and  rocky  capes  in  miniature,  and  little  heights,  on 
which  Aino  houses,  with  tawny  roofs,  are  clustered; 
and  then  the  track  dips  suddenly,  and  deposits  one,  not 


JAPANESE  EXILES. 


183 


by  a lake  at  all,  but  on  Usu  Bay,  an  inlet  of  the  Pacific, 
much  broken  up  into  coves,  and  with  a very  narrow 
entrance,  only  obvious  from  a few  points.  Just  as  the 
track  touches  the  bay,  there  is  a road-post,  with  a 
prayer-wheel  in  it,  and  by  the  shore  an  upright  stone 
of  very  large  size,  inscribed  with  Sanskrit  characters, 
near  to  a stone  staircase  and  a gateway  in  a massive 
stone-faced  embankment,  which  looked  much  out  of 
keeping  with  the  general  wildness  of  the  place.  On  a 
rocky  promontory  in  a wooded  cove,  there  is  a large, 
rambling  house,  greatly  out  of  repair,  inhabited  by  a 
Japanese  man  and  his  son,  who  are  placed  there  to  look 
after  Government  interests,  exiles  among  500  Ainos. 
From  among  the  number  of  rat-haunted,  rambling 
rooms  which  had  once  been  handsome,  I chose  one 
opening  on  a yard  or  garden  with  some  distorted  yews 
in  it,  but  found  that  the  great  gateway  and  the  amado 
had  no  bolts,  and  that  anything  might  be  appropriated 
by  any  one  with  dishonest  intentions ; but  the  house- 
master and  his  son,  who  have  lived  for  ten  years  among 
the  Ainos,  and  speak  their  language,  say  that 'nothing 
is  ever  taken,  and  that  the  Ainos  are  thoroughly  honest 
and  harmless.  Without  this  assurance  I should  have 
been  distrustful  of  the  number  of  wide-mouthed  youths 
who  hung  about,  in  the  listlessness  and  vacuity  of  sav- 
agery, if  not  of  the  bearded  men  who  sat  or  stood  about 
the  gateway  with  children  in  their  arms. 

Usu  is  a dream  of  beauty  and  peace.  There  is  not 
much  difference  between  the  height  of  high  and  low 
water  on  this  coast,  and  the  lake-like  illusion  would 
have  been  perfect  had  it  not  been  that  the  rocks  were 
tinged  with  gold  for  a foot  or  so  above  the  sea  by  a 
delicate  species  of  fucus.  In  the  exquisite  inlet  where 
I spent  the  night,  trees  and  trailers  drooped  into  the 
water  and  were  mirrored  in  it,  their  green,  heavy  shad 


134 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


ows  lying  sharp  against  the  sunset  gold  and  pink  of  the 
rest  of  the  bay;  log  canoes,  with  planks  laced  upon 
their  gunwales  to  heighten  them,  were  drawn  upon  a 
tiny  beach  of  golden  sand,  and  in  the  shadiest  cove, 
moored  to  a tree,  an  antique  and  much-carved  junk  was 
“floating  double.”  Wooded,  rocky  knolls,  with  Aino 
huts,  the  vermilion  peaks  of  the  volcano  of  Usu-taki 
redder  than  ever  in  the  sinking  sun,  a few  Ainos  mend- 
ing their  nets,  a few  more  spreading  edible  seaweed  out 
to  dry,  a single  canoe  breaking  the  golden  mirror  of  the 
cove  by  its  noiseless  motion,  a few  Aino  loungers,  with 
their  “mild-eyed,  melancholy”  faces  and  quiet  waj^s 
suiting  the  quiet  evening  scene,  the  unearthly  sweet- 
ness of  a temple  bell  — this  was  all,  and  yet  it  was  the 
loveliest  picture  I have  seen  in  J apan. 

In  spite  of  Ito’s  remonstrances  and  his  protestations 
that  an  exceptionally  good  supper  would  be  spoiled,  I 
left  my  rat-haunted  room,  with  its  tarnished  gilding 
and  precarious  fusuma.,  to  get  the  last  of  the  pink  and 
lemon-coloured  glory,  going  up  the  staircase  in  the 
stone-faced  embankment,  and  up  a broad,  well-paved 
avenue,  to  a large  temple,  within  whose  open  door  I sat 
for  some  time  absolutely  alone,  and  in  a wonderful  still- 
ness ; for  the  sweet-toned  bell  which  vainly  chimes  for 
vespers  amidst  tliis  bear-worshipping  population  had 
ceased.  This  temple  was  the  first  symptom  of  Japan- 
ese religion  that  I remember  to  have  seen  since  leaving 
Hakodate,  and  worshippers  have  long  since  ebbed  away 
from  its  shady  and  moss-grown  courts.  Yet  it  stands 
there  to  protest  for  the  teaching  of  the  great  Hindu ; 
and  generations  of  Aino  heathen  pass  away  one  after 
another;  and  still  its  bronze  bell  tolls,  and  its  altar 
lamps  are  lit,  and  incense  burns  for  ever  before  Buddha. 
The  characters  on  the  great  bell  of  this  temple  are  said 
to  be  the  same  lines  which  are  often  graven  on  temple 


SAKYA-MUNL 


135 


bells,  and  to  possess  the  dignity  of  twenty-four  cen- 
turies ; 

‘ All  things  are  transient ; 

They  being  born  must  die, 

And  being  born  are  dead ; 

And  being  dead  are  glad 
To  be  at  rest.” 

The  temple  is  very  handsome,  the  baldachino  is  superb, 
and  the  bronzes  and  brasses  on  the  altar  are  specially 
fine.  A broad  ray  of  sunlight  streamed  in,  crossed  the 
matted  floor,  and  fell  full  upon  the  figure  of  Sakya- 
muni  in  his  golden  shrine ; and  just  at  that  moment  a 
shaven  priest,  in  silk-brocaded  vestments  of  faded  green, 
silently  passed  down  the  stream  of  light,  and  lit  the 
candles  on  the  altar,  and  fresh  incense  filled  the  temple 
with  a drowsy  fragrance.  It  was  a most  impressive 
picture.  His  curiosity  evidently  shortened  his  devo- 
tions, and  he  came  and  asked  me  where  I had  been 
and  where  I was  going,  to  which,  of  course,  I replied 
in  excellent  Japanese,  and  then  stuck  fast. 

Along  the  paved  avenue,  besides  the  usual  stone 
trough  for  holy  water,  there  are  on  one  side  the  thou- 
sand-armed Kwan-non,  a very  fine  relief,  and  on  the 
other  a Buddha,  throned  on  the  eternal  lotus  blossom, 
with  an  iron  staff,  much  resembling  a crozier,  in  his 
hand,  and  that  eternal  apathy  on  his  face  which  is  the 
highest  hope  of  those  who  hope  at  all.  I went  through 
a wood,  where  there  are  some  mournful  groups  of 
graves  on  the  hill-side,  and  from  the  temple  came  tlie 
sweet  sound  of  the  great  bronze  bell  and  the  beat  of 
the  big  drum,  and  then,  more  faintly,  the  sound  of  the 
little  bell  and  drum,  with  which  the  priest  accompanies 
his  ceaseless  repetition  of  a phrase  in  the  dead  tongue 
of  a distant  land.  There  is  an  infinite  pathos  about  the 
lonely  temple  in  its  splendour,  the  absence  of  even  pos- 


136 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


Bible  worshippers,  and  the  large  population  of  Ainos, 
sunk  in  yet  deeper  superstitions  than  those  which  go  to 
make  up  popular  Buddhism.  I sat  on  a rock  by  the 
bay  till  the  last  pink  glow  faded  from  Usu-taki  and  the 
last  lemon  stain  from  the  still  water ; and  a beautiful 
crescent,  which  hung  over  the  wooded  hill,  had  set, 
and  the  Leavens  blazed  with  stars : 

“ Ten  thousand  stars  were  in  the  sky, 

Ten  thousand  in  the  sea, 

And  every  wave  with  dimpled  face, 

That  leapt  upon  the  air, 

Had  caught  a star  in  its  embrace, 

And  held  it  trembling  there.” 

The  loneliness  of  Usu  Bay  is  something  wonderful  — 
a house  full  of  empty  rooms  falling  to  decay,  with  only 
two  men  in  it  — one  Japanese  house  among  500  sav- 
ages, yet  it  was  the  only  one  in  which  I have  slept  in 
which  they  bolted  neither  the  amado  nor  the  gate. 
During  the  night  the  amado  fell  out  of  the  worn-out 
grooves  with  a crash,  knocking  down  the  shoji^  which 
fell  on  me,  and  rousing  Ito,  who  rushed  into  my  room 
half-asleep,  with  a vague  vision  of  blood-thirsty  Ainos 
in  his  mind.  I then  learned  what  I have  been  very 
stupid  not  to  have  learned  before,  that  in  these  sliding 
wooden  shutters  there  is  a small  door  through  which 
one  person  can  creep  at  a time  called  the  jisMndo^  or 
“ earthquake  door,”  because  it  provides  an  exit  during 
the  alarm  of  an  earthquake,  in  case  of  the  amado  stick- 
ing in  their  grooves,  or  their  bolts  going  wrong.  I 
believe  that  such  a door  exists  in  all  Japanese  houses. 

The  next  morning  was  as  beautiful  as  the  previous 
evening,  rose  and  gold  instead  of  gold  and  pink. 
Before  the  sun  was  well  up  I visited  a number  of  the 
Aino  lodges,  saw  the  bear,  and  the  chief,  who,  like  all 
the  rest,  is  a monogamist,  and,  after  breakfast,  at  my 


WOBSHIP. 


137 


request,  some  of  the  old  men  came  to  give  me  such 
information  as  they  had.  These  venerable  elders  sat 
cross-legged  in  the  verandah,  the  house-master’s  son, 
who  kindly  acted  as  interpreter,  squatting,  Japanese 
fashion,  at  the  side,  and  about  thirty  Ainos,  mostly 
women,  with  infants,  sitting  behind.  I spent  about 
two  hours  in  going  over  the  same  ground  as  at  Birat ori, 
and  also  went  over  the  words,^  and  got  some  more, 
including  some  synonyms.  The  click  of  the  ts  before 
the  ch  at  the  beginning  of  a word  is  strongly  marked 
among  these  Ainos.  Some  of  their  customs  differ 
slightly  from  those  of  their  brethren  of  the  interior, 
specially  as  to  the  period  of  seclusion  after  a death,  the 
non-allowance  of  polygamy  to  the  chief,  and  the  manner 
of  killing  the  bear  at  the  annual  festival.  Their  ideas 
of  metempsychosis  are  more  definite,  but  this,  I think, 
is  to  be  accounted  for  by  the  influence  and  proximity 
of  Buddhism.  They  spoke  of  the  bear  as  their  chief 
god,  and  next  the  sun  and  fire.  They  said  that  they 
no  longer  worship  the  wolf,  and  that  though  they  call 
the  volcano  and  many  other  things  kamoi^  or  god,  they 
do  not  worship  them.  I ascertained  beyond  doubt  that 
worship  with  them  means  simply  making  libations  of 
sake^  and  “drinking  to  the  god,”  and  that  it  is  unac- 
companied by  petitions,  or  any  vocal  or  mental  act. 

These  Ainos  are  as  dark  as  the  people  of  southern 
Spain,  and  very  hairy.  Their  expression  is  earnest  and 
pathetic,  and  when  they  smiled,  as  they  did  when  1 
could  not  pronounce  their  words,  their  faces  had  a 
touching  sweetness  which  was  quite  beautiful,  and 
European,  not  Asiatic.  Their  own  impression  is  that 
they  are  now  increasing  in  numbers  after  diminishing 
for  many  years.  I left  Usu  sleeping  in  the  loveliness 
of  an  autumn  noon  with  great  regret.  No  place  that  I 
have  seen  has  fascinated  me  so  much. 

1 See  Appendix  A. 


138 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


SOLITUDE. 

I'lie  Sea-shore  — A “ Hairy  Aino  ” — A Horse  Fight  — The  Horses  of 
Yezo  — “Bad  Mountains” — A Slight  Accident —Magnificent 
Scenery  — A Bleached  Halting-Place  — A Musty  Boom  — Aino 
“ Good-breeding.” 

A CHABGE  of  3 sen  per  ri  more  for  the  horses  for  the 
aext  stage,  because  there  were  such  “ bad  mountains  to 
cross,”  prepared  me  for  what  followed  — many  miles  of 
the  worst  road  for  horses  I ever  saw.  I should  not 
have  complained  if  they  had  charged  double  the  price. 
As  an  almost  certain  consequence,  it  was  one  of  the 
most  picturesque  routes  I have  ever  travelled.  For 
some  distance,  however,  it  runs  placidly  along  by  the 
sea-shore,  on  which  big,  blue,  foam-crested  rollers  were 
disporting  themselves  noisily,  and  passes  through  sev- 
eral Aino  hamlets,  and  the  Aino  village  of  Abuta,  with 
sixty  housed,  rather  a prosperous-looking  place,  where 
the  cultivation  was  considerably  more  careful,  and  the 
people  possessed  a number  of  horses.  Several  of  the 
houses  were  surrounded  by  bears’  skulls  grinning  from 
between  the  forked  tops  of  high  poles,  and  there  was  a 
well-grown  bear  ready  for  his  doom  and  apotheosis.  In 
nearly  all  the  houses  a woman  was  weaving  bark-cloth, 
with  the  hook  which  holds  the  web  fixed  into  the 
ground  several  feet  outside  the  house.  At  a deep  river 
called  the  Nopkobets,  which  emerges  from  the  moun- 
tains close  to  the  sea,  we  were  ferried  by  an  Aino  com- 
pletely covered  with  hair,  which  on  his  shoulders  was 


A nOBSE  FIGHT. 


139 


wavy  like  that  of  a retriever,  and  rendered  clothing 
quite  needless  either  for  covering  or  warmth.  A wavy, 
black  beard  rippled  nearly  to  his  waist  over  his  furry 
chest,  and,  with  his  black  locks  hanging  in  masses  over 
his  shoulders,  he  would  have  looked  a thorough  savage 
had  it  not  been  for  the  exceeding  sweetness  of  his  smile 
and  eyes.  The  Volcano  Bay  Ainos  are  far  more  hairy 
than  the  mountain  Ainos,  but  even  among  them  it  is 
quite  common  to  see  men  not  more  so  than  vigorous 
Europeans,  and  I think  that  the  hairiness  of  the  race 
as  a distinctive  feature  has  been  much  exaggerated, 
partly  by  the  smooth-skinned  Japanese. 

The  ferry  scow  was  nearly  upset  by  our  four  horses 
beginning  to  fight.  At  first  one  bit  the  shoulders  of 
another;  then  the  one  attacked  uttered  short,  sharp 
squeals,  and  returned  the  attack  by  striking  with  his 
fore  feet,  and  then  there  was  a general  mSlee  of  strik- 
ing and  biting,  till  some  ugly  wounds  were  inflicted.  I 
hav^  watched  fights  of  this  kind  on  a large  scale  every 
day  in  the  corral.  The  miseries  of  the  Yezo  horses  are 
the  great  drawback  of  Yezo  travelling.  They  are  bru- 
tally used,  and  are  covered  with  awful  wounds  from 
being  driven  at  a fast  “ scramble  ” with  the  rude,  un- 
girthed  pack-saddle  and  its  heavy  load  rolling  about  on 
their  backs,  and  they  are  beaten  unmercifully  over  their 
eyes  and  ears  with  heavy  sticks.  Ito  has  been  barbar- 
ous to  these  gentle,  little-prized  animals  ever  since  we 
came  to  Yezo  ; he  has  vexed  me  more  by  this  than  by 
anything  else,  especially  as  he  never  dared  even  to 
carry  a switch  on  the  main  island,  either  from  fear  of 
the  horses  or  their  owners.  To-day  he  was  beating  the 
baggage-horse  unmercifully,  when  I rode  back  and  in- 
terfered with  some  very  strong  language,  saying,  “You 
are  a bully,  and,  like  all  bullies,  a coward.”  Imagine 
my  aggravation  when,  at  our  first  halt,  he  brought  out 


140 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


liis  note-book  as  usual,  and  quietly  asked  me  the  mean- 
ing of  the  words  “bull}^”  and  “coward.”  It  was  per- 
fectly impossible  to  explain  them,  so  I said  a bully  was 
the  worst  name  I could  call  him,  and  that  a coward  was 
the  meanest  thing  a man  could  be.  Then  the  provok- 
ing boy  said,  “Is  bully  a worse  name  than  devil?” 
“ Yes,  far  worse,”  I said,  on  which  he  seemed  rather 
crestfallen,  and  he  has  not  beaten  his  horse  since,  in  my 
sight  at  least. 

The  breaking-in  process  is  simply  breaking  the  spirit 
by  an  hour  or  two  of  such  atrocious  cruelty  as  I saw  at 
Shira5i,  at  the  end  of  which  the  horse,  covered  with 
foam  and  blood,  and  bleeding  from  mouth  and  nose, 
falls  down  exhausted.  Being  so  ill  used,  they  have  all 
kinds  of  tricks,  such  as  lying  down  in  fords,  tlu-owing 
themselves  down  head  foremost  and  rolling  over  pack 
and  rider,  bucking,  and  resisting  attempts  to  make  them 
go  otherwise  than  in  single  file.  Instead  of  bits  they 
have  bars  of  wood  on  each  side  of  the  mouth,  secured 
by  a rope  round  the  nose  and  chin.  When  horses 
which  have  been  broken  with  bits  gallop  they  put  up 
their  heads  till  the  nose  is  level  with  the  ears,  and  it  is 
useless  to  try  either  to  guide  or  check  them.  They  are 
always  wanting  to  join  the  great  herds  on  the  hill-side 
or  sea-shore,  from  which  they  are  only  driven  down  as 
they  are  needed.  In  every  Yezo  village  the  first  sound 
that  one  hears  at  break  of  day  is  the  gallop  of  forty  or 
fifty  horses,  pursued  by  an  Aino,  who  has  hunted  them 
from  the  hills.  A horse  is  worth  from  twenty-eight 
shillings  upwards.  They  are  very  sure-footed  when 
their  feet  are  not  sore,  and  cross  a stream  or  chasm  on  a 
single  rickety  plank,  or  walk  on  a narrow  ledge  above  a 
river  or  gulch  without  fear.  They  are  barefooted,  their 
hoofs  are  very  hard,  and  I am  glad  to  be  rid  of  the  per- 
petual tying  and  untying  and  replacing  of  the  straw 


^^BAD  mountains:^ 


141 


shoes  of  the  well-cared-for  horses  of  the  main  island. 
A man  rides  with  them,  and  for  a man  and  three  horses 
the  charge  is  only  sixpence  for  each  2^  miles.  I am 
now  making  Ito  ride  in  front  of  me,  to  make  sure  that 
he  does  not  beat  or  otherwise  misuse  his  beast. 

After  crossing  the  Nopkobets,  from  which  the  fight- 
ing horses  have  led  me  to  make  so  long  a digression, 
we  went  right  up  into  the  “bad  mountains,”  and 
crossed  the  three  tremendous  passes  of  Lebungetoge. 
Except  by  saying  that  this  disused  bridle-track  is 
impassable,  people  have  scarcely  exaggerated  its  diffi- 
culties. One  horse  broke  down  on  the  first  pass,  and 
we  were  long  delayed  by  sending  the  Aino  back  for 
another.  Possibly  these  extraordinary  passes  do  not 
exceed  1500  feet  in  height,  but  the  track  ascends  them 
through  a dense  forest  with  most  extraordinary  ab- 
ruptness, to  descend  as  abruptly,  to  rise  again  some- 
times by  a series  of  nearly  washed-away  zigzags,  at 
others  by  a straight,  ladder-like  ascent  deeply  chan- 
nelled, the  bottom  of  the  trough  being  filled  with 
rough  stones,  large  and  small,  or  with  ledges  of  rock 
with  an  entangled  mass  of  branches  and  trailers  over- 
head, which  render  it  necessary  to  stoop  over  the 
horse’s  head  while  he  is  either  fumbling,  stumbling, 
or  tumbling  among  the  stones  in  a gash  a foot  wide, 
or  else  is  awkwardly  leaping  up  broken  rock  steps 
nearly  the  height  of  his  chest,  the  whole  performance 
consisting  of  a series  of  scrambling  jerks  at  the  rate  of 
a mile  an  hour. 

In  one  of  the  worst  places  the  Aino’s  horse,  vffiich 
was  just  in  front  of  mine,  in  trying  to  scramble  up  a 
nearly  breast-high  and  much-worn  ledge,  fell  back- 
wards, nearly  overturning  my  horse,  the  stretcher 
poles,  which  formed  part  of  his  pack,  striking  me  so 
hard  above  my  ankle  that  for  some  minutes  after- 


142 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


'vards  I thought  the  bone  was  broken.  The  ankle 
was  severely  cut  and  bruised,  and  bled  a good  deal, 
and  T was  knocked  out  of  the  saddle.  Ito’s  horse  fell 
three  times,  and  eventually  the  four  were  roped  to- 
gether. Such  are  some  of  the  divertissements  of  Yezo 
travel. 

Ah,  but  it  was  glorious ! The  views  are  most  mag- 
nificent. This  is  really  Paradise.  Everything  is  here, 
— huge  headlands  magnificently  timbered,  small,  deep, 
bays  into  which  the  great  green  waves  roll  majesti- 
cally, great,  grey  cliffs,  too  perpendicular  for  even  the 
most  adventurous  trailer  to  find  root-hold,  bold  bluffs 
and  outlying  stacks  cedar-crested,  glimpses  of  bright, 
blue  ocean  dimpling  in  the  sunshine  or  tossing  up 
wreaths  of  foam  among  ferns  and  trailers,  and  inland 
ranges  of  mountains  forest-covered,  with  tremendous 
gorges  between,  forest  filled,  where  wolf,  bear,  and 
deer  make  their  nearly  inaccessible  lairs,  and  outlying 
battlements,  and  ridges  of  grey  rock  with  hardly  six 
feet  of  level  on  their  sinuous  tops,  and  cedars  in  masses 
giving  deep  shadow,  and  sprays  of  scarlet  maple  or 
festoons  of  a crimson  vine  lighting  the  gloom.  The 
inland  view  suggested  infinity.  There  seemed  no  limit 
to  the  forest-covered  mountains  and  the  unlighted 
ravines.  The  wealth  of  vegetation  was  equal  in  lux- 
uriance and  entanglement  to  that  of  the  tropics,  prime- 
val vegetation,  on  which  the  lumberer’s  axe  has  never 
rung.  Trees  of  immense  height  and  girth,  specially 
the  beautiful  Salishuria  adiantifolia  with  its  small  fan- 
shaped leaves,  all  matted  together  by  riotous  lianas, 
rise  out  of  an  impenetrable  undergrowth  of  the  dwarf, 
dark-leaved  bamboo,  which,  dwarf  as  it  is,  attains  a 
height  of  seven  feet,  and  all  is  dark,  solemn,  soundless, 
the  haunt  of  wild  beasts,  and  of  butterflies  and  dragon- 
flies of  the  most  brilliant  colours.  There  was  light 


BELATED  AT  LEBUNGJE. 


143 


without  heat,  leaves  and  streams  sparkled,  and  there 
was  nothing  of  the  half-smothered  sensation  which  is 
often  produced  by  the  choking  greenery  of  the  main 
island,  for  frequently,  far  below,  the  Pacific  flashed  in 
all  its  sunlit  beauty,  and  occasionally  we  came  down 
unexpectedly  on  a little  cove  with  abrupt  cedar-crested 
headlands  and  stacks,  and  a heavy  surf  rolling  in  with 
the  deep  thunder  music  which  alone  breaks  the  stillness 
of  this  silent  land. 

There  was  one  tremendous  declivity  where  I got  ofi 
to  walk,  but  found  it  too  steep  to  descend  on  foot  Avith 
comfort.  You  can  imagine  how  steep  it  was,  when  I 
tell  you  that  the  deep  groove  being  too  narrow  for  me 
to  get  to  the  side  of  my  horse,  I dropped  down  upon 
him  from  behind,  between  his  tail  and  the  saddle,  and 
so  scrambled  on ! 

The  sun  had  set  and  the  dew  was  falling  heavily 
when  the  track  dipped  over  the  brow  of  a headland, 
becoming  a waterway  so  steep  and  rough  that  I could 
not  get  down  it  on  foot  without^  the  assistance  of  my 
hands,  and  terminating  on  a lonely  little  bay  of  great 
beauty,  walled  in  by  impracticable-looking  headlands, 
and  being  itself  the  entrance  to  an  equally  impracti- 
cable-looking, densel}^- wooded  valley  running  up  among 
densely-wooded  mountains.  There  was  a margin  of 
grey  sand  above  the  sea,  and  on  this  the  skeleton  of  an 
enormous  whale  was  bleaching.  Two  or  three  large 
“ dug-outs,”  with  planks  laced  with  stout  fibre  on  their 
gunwales,  and  some  bleached  drift-wood,  lay  on  the 
beach,  the  foreground  of  a solitary,  rambling,  dilapi- 
dated grey  house,  bleached  like  all  else,  where  three 
Japanese  men  with  an  old  Aino  servant  live  to  look 
after  “ Government  interests,”  whatever  these  may  be, 
and  keep  rooms  and  horses  for  Government  officials  — a 
great  boon  to  travellers  who,  like  me,  are  belated  here. 


144 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


Only  one  person  has  passed  Lebungd  this  year,  except 
two  officials  and  a policeman. 

X There  was  still  a red  glow  on  the  water,  and  one 
horn  of  a young  moon  appeared  above  the  wooded 
headland;  but  the  loneliness  and  isolation  are  over- 
powering, and  it  is  enough  to  produce  madness  to  be 
shut  in  for  ever  with  the  thunder  of  the  everlasting 
surf,  which  compels  one  to  raise  one’s  voice  in  order  to 
be  heard.  In  the  wood,  half  a mile  from  the  sea,  there 
is  an  Aino  village  of  thirty  houses,  and  the  appearance 
of  a few  of  the  savages  gliding  noiselessly  over  the 
beach  in  the  twilight  added  to  the  ghastliness  and 
loneliness  of  the  scene.  The  horses  were  unloaded 
by  the  time  I arrived,  and  several  courteous  Ainos 
showed  me  to  my  room,  opening  on  a small  courtyard 
with  a heavy  gate.  The  room  was  musty,  and,  being 
rarely  used,  swarmed  with  spiders.  A saucer  of  fish- 
oil  and  a wick  rendered  darkness  visible,  and  showed 
faintly  the  dark,  pathetic  faces  of  a row  of  Ainos  in 
the  verandah,  who  retired  noiselessly  with  their  grace- 
ful salutation  when  I bade  them  good-night.  Food 
was  hardly  to  be  expected,  yet  they  gave  me  rice,  pota- 
toes, and  black  beans  boiled  in  equal  parts  of  brine  and 
syrup,  which  are  very  palatable.  The  cuts  and  bruises 
of  yesterday  became  so  very  painful  with  the  cold  of 
the  early  morning  that  I have  been  obliged  to  remain 
here.  I*  L.  B. 


A GROUP  OF  SAVAGES. 


145 


THE  MISSING  LINK. 

A Group  of  Fathers  — The  Lebung^  Aiiios  — The  Salisburia  adianti- 
folia  — A Family  Group  — The  Missing  Link  — Oshamamb(5  — A 
Horse  Fight  — The  River  Yurapu  — The  Seaside  — Sagacity  of 
Crows  — Outwitting  a Dog  — Aino  Canoes  — The  Volcano  of  Ko- 
mono-taki  — The  last  Morning  — Dodging  Europeans. 

Hakodate,  September  12. 

Lebunge  is  a most  fascinating  place  in  its  awful 
isolation.  The  house-master  was  a friendly  man,  and 
much  attached  to  the  Ainos.  If  other  officials  entrusted 
with  Aino  concerns  treat  the  Ainos  as  fraternally  as 
those  of  Usu  and  Lebunge,  there  is  not  much  to  lament. 
This  man  also  gave  them  a high  character  for  honesty 
and  harmlessness,  and  asked  if  they  might  come  and  see 
me  before  I left;  so  twenty  men,  mostly  carrying  very 
pretty  children,  came  into  the  yard  with  the  horses. 
They  had  never  seen  a foreigner,  but  either  from  apathy 
or  politeness,  they  neither  stare  nor  press  upon  one  as 
the  flapanese  do,  and  always  make  a courteous  recogni- 
tion. The  bear-skin  housing  of  my  saddle  pleased  them 
very  much,  and  my  boots  of  unblacked  leather,  which 
they  compare  to  the  deer-hide  moccasins  which  they 
wear  for  winter  hunting.  Their  voices  were  the  lowest 
and  most  musical  that  I have  heard,  incongruous  sounds 
to  proceed  from  such  hairy,  powerful-looking  men. 
Their  love  for  their  children  was  most  marked.  They 
caressed  them  tenderly,  and  held  them  aloft  for  notice, 
and  when  the  house-master  told  them  how  much  I 


146 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


admired  the  brown,  dark-eyed,  winsome  creatures,  their 
faces  lighted  with  pleasure,  and  they  saluted  me  over 
and  over  again.  These,  like  other  Ainos,  utter  a short, 
screeching  sound  when  they  are  not  pleased,  and  then 
one  recognises  the  savage. 

These  Lebung^  Ainos  differ  considerably  from  those 
of  the  eastern  villages,  and  I have  again  to  notice  the 
decided  sound  or  click  of  the  ts  at  the  beginning  of 
many  words.  Their  skins  are  as  swarthy  as  those  of 
Bedaween,  their  foreheads  comparatively  low,  their  eyes 
far  more  deeply  set,  their  stature  lower,  their  hair  yet 
more  abundant,  the  look  of  wistful  melancholy  more 
marked,  and  two  who  were  unclothed  for  hard  work  in 
fashioning  a canoe,  were  almost  entirely  covered  with 
short,  black  hair,  sj)ecially  thick  on  the  shoulders  and 
back,  and  so  completely  concealing  the  skin  as  to  recon- 
cile one  to  the  lack  of  clothing.  I noticed  an  enormous 
breadth  of  chest,  and  a great  development  of  the  mus- 
cles of  the  arms  and  legs.  'All  these  Ainos  shave  their 
hair  off  for  two  inches  above  their  brows,  only  allowing 
it  there  to  attain  the  length  of  an  inch.  Among  the 
well-clothed  Ainos  in  the  yard  there  was  one  smooth- 
faced, smooth-skinned,  concave-chested,  spindle-limbed, 
yellow  Japanese,  with  no  other  clothing  than  the  deco- 
rated bark-cloth  apron  which  the  Ainos  wear  in  addition 
to  their  coats  and  leggings.  Escorted  by  these  gentle, 
friendly  savages,  I visited  their  lodges,  which  are  very 
small  and  poor,  and  in  every  way  inferior  to  those  of 
the  mountain  Ainos.  The  women  are  short  and  thick- 
set, and  most  uncomely. 

From  their  village  I started  for  the  longest,  and  by 
reputation,  the  worst  stage  of  my  journey,  seventeen 
miles,  the  first  ten  of  which  are  over  mountains.  So 
solitary  and  disused  is  tlus  track,  that  on  a four  days’ 
journey  we  have  not  met  a human  being.  Jn  the  Le- 


A BUGGED  BIDE. 


147 


bung(^  valley,  which  is  densely  forested,  and  abounds 
with  fordable  streams  and  treacherous  ground,  I came 
upon  a grand  specimen  of  the  Salishuria  adiantifolia., 
which,  at  a height  of  three  feet  from  the  ground, 
divides  into  eight  lofty  stems,  none  of  them  less  than  2 
feet  5 inches  in  diameter.  This  tree,  which  grows 
rapidly,  is  so  well  adapted  to  our  climate,  that  I won- 
der it  has  not  been  introduced  on  a large  scale,  as  it 
may  be  seen  by  every  body  in  Kew  Gardens.  There 
is  another  tree  with  orbicular  leaves  in  pairs,  which 
grows  to  an  immense  size. 

From  this  valley  a worn-out,  stony  bridle-track  ascends 
the  western  side  of  Lebungetogd,  climbing  through  a 
dense  forest  of  trees  and  trailers  to  a height  of  about 
2000  feet,  where,  contented  with  its  efforts,  it  reposes, 
and,  with  only  slight  ups  and  downs,  continues  along 
the  top  of  a narrow  ridge  within  the  seaward  moun- 
tains, between  high  walls  of  dense  bamboo,  which,  for 
much  of  that  day’s  journey,  is  the  undergrowth  alike 
of  mountain  and  valley,  ragged  peak,  and  rugged  ra- 
vine. The  scenery  was  as  magnificent  as  on  the  previ- 
ous day.  A guide  was  absolutely  needed,  as  the  track 
ceased  altogether  in  one  place,  and  for  some  time  the 
horses  had  to  blunder  their  way  along  a bright,  rushing 
river,  swirling  rapidly  downwards,  heavily  bordered 
with  bamboo,  full  of  deep  holes,  and  made  difficult  by 
trees  which  have  fallen  across  it.  There  Ito,  whose 
horse  could  not  keep  up  with  the  others,  was  lost,  or 
rather  lost  himself,  which  led  to  a delay  of  two  hours. 
I have  never  seen  grander  forest  than  on  that  two  day’s 
ride. 

At  last  the  track,  barely  passable  after  its  recovery, 
dips  over  a precipitous  bluff,  and  descends  close  to  the 
sea,  which  has  evidently  receded  considerably.  Thence 
it  runs  for  six  miles  on  a level,  sandy  strip,  covered 


148 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


near  tlie  sea  with  a dwarf  bamboo  about  five  inches 
high,  and  farther  inland  with  red  roses  and  blue  campa- 
nula. 

At  the  foot  of  the  bluff  there  is  a ruinous  Japanese 
house,  where  an  Aino  family  has  been  placed  to  give 
shelter  and  rest  to  any  who  may  be  crossing  the  pass. 
I opened  my  hentd  hako  of  red  lacquer,  and  found  that 
it  contained  some  cold,  waxy  potatoes,  on  which  I 
dined,  with  the  addition  of  some  tea,  and  then  waited 
wearily  for  Ito,  for  whom  the  guide  went  in  search. 
The  house  and  its  inmates  were  a study.  The  ceiling 
was  gone,  and  all  kinds  of  things,  for  which  1 could  not 
imagine  any  possible  use,  hung  from  the  blackened 
rafters.  Everything  was  broken  and  decayed,  and  the 
dirt  was  appalling.  A very  ugly  Aino  woman,  aardly 
human  in  her  ugliness,  was  splitting  bark  fibre.  There 
were  several  Japanese  fashion,  and  at  one  of  them 
a grand-looking  old  man  was  seated  apathetically  con- 
templating the  boiling  of  a pot.  Old,  and  sitting 
among  ruins,  he  represented  the  fate  of  a race  which, 
living,  has  no  history,  and  perishing,  leaves  no  monu- 
ment. By  the  other  irori  sat,  or  rather  crouched,  the 
“ Missing  Link.”  I was  startled  when  I first  saw  it. 
It  was,  shall  I say  ? a man,  and  the  mate^  I cannot  write 
the  husband,  of  the  ugly  woman.  It  was  about  fifty. 
The  lofty  Aino  brow  had  been  made  still  loftier  by 
shaving  the  head  for  three  inches  above  it.  The  hair 
hung,  not  in  slmcks,  but  in  snaky  wisps,  mingling  with 
a beard  which  was  grey  and  matted.  The  eyes  were 
dark  but  vacant,  and  the  face  had  no  other  expression 
than  that  look  of  apathetic  melancholy  which  one 
sometimes  sees  on  the  faces  of  captive  beasts.  The 
arms  and  legs  were  unnaturally  long  and  thin,  and  the 
creature  sat  with  the  knees  tucked  into  the  armpits. 
The  limbs  and  body,  with  the  exception  of  a patch  on 


A mSORBEBLY  DROVE. 


149 


each  side,  were  thinly  covered  with  fine  black  hair, 
more  than  an  inch  long,  which  was  slightly  curly  on 
the  shoulders.  It  showed  no  other  sign  of  intelligence 
than  that  evidenced  by  boiling  water  for  my  tea. 
When  Ito  arrived  he  looked  at  it  with  disgust,  exclaim- 
ing, “ The  Ainos  are  just  dogs ; they  had  a dog  for 
their  father,”  in  allusion  to  their  own  legend  of  their 
origin. 

The  level  w^as  pleasant  after  the  mountains,  and  a 
canter  took  us  pleasantly  to  Oshamambe,  where  we 
struck  the  old  road  from  Mori  to  Satsuporo,  and  where 
I halted  for  a day  to  rest  my  spine,  from  which  I was 
suffering  much.  Oshamambe  looks  dismal  even  in  the 
sunshine,  decayed  and  dissipated,  with  many  people 
lounging  about  in  it  doing  nothing,  with  the  dazed  look 
which  over-indulgence  in  sahS  gives  to  the  eyes.  The 
sun  was  scorching  hot,  and  I was  glad  to  find  refuge 
from  it  in  a crowded  and  dilapidated  yadoya.,  where 
there  were  no  black  beans,  and  the  use  of  eggs  did  not 
appear  to  be  recognised.  My  room  was  only  enclosed 
by  shoji.,  and  there  were  scarcely  five  minutes  of  the 
day  in  which  eyes  were  not  applied  to  the  finger-holes 
with  which  they  were  liberally  riddled ; and  during  the 
night  one  of  them  fell  down,  revealing  six  Japanese 
sleeping  in  a row,  each  head  on  a wooden  pillow. 

The  grandeur  of  the  route  ceased  with  the  mountain 
passes,  but  in  the  brilliant  sunshine  the  ride  from 
Oshamambe  to  Mori,  which  took  me  two  days,  was  as 
pretty  and  pleasant  as  it  could  be.  At  first  we  got  on 
very  slowly,  as  besides  my  four  horses  there  were  four 
led  ones  going  home,  which  got  up  fights  and  entangled 
their  ropes,  and  occasionally  lay  down  and  rolled ; and 
besides  these  there  were  three  foals  following  their 
mothers,  and  if  they  stayed  behind,  the  mares  hung 
back  neighing,  and  if  they  frolicked  ahead,  the  mares 


150 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


wanted  to  look  after  them,  and  the  whole  string  showed 
a combined  inclination  to  dispense  with  their  riders 
and  join  the  many  herds  of  horses  which  we  passed.  It 
was  so  tedious  that,  after  enduring  it  for  some  time,  I 
got  Ito’s  horse  and  mine  into  a scow  at  a river  of  some 
size,  and  left  the  disorderly  drove  to  follow  at  leisure. 

At  Yurapu,  where  there  is  an  Aino  village  of  thirty 
houses,  we  saw  the  last  of  the  aborigines,  and  the  inter- 
est of  the  journey  ended.  Strips  of  hard  sand  below 
high-water  mark,  strips  of  red  roses,  ranges  of  wooded 
mountains,  rivers  deep  and  shallow,  a few  villages  of 
old  grey  houses  amidst  grey  sand  and  bleaching  drift- 
wood, and  then  came  the  river  Yurapu,  a broad,  deep 
stream,  navigable  in  a canoe  for  fourteen  miles.  The 
scenery  there  was  truly  beautiful  in  the  late  and 
splendid  afternoon.  The  long  blue  waves  rolled  on 
shore,  each  one  crested  with  light  as  it  curled  before  it 
broke,  and  hurled  its  snowy  drift  for  miles  along  the 
coast  with  a deep  booming  music.  The  glorious  inland 
view  was  composed  of  six  ranges  of  forest-covered 
mountains,  broken,  chasmed,  caverned,  and  dark  with 
timber,  and  above  them  bald,  grey  peaks  rose  against  a 
green  sky  of  singular  purity.  I longed  to  take  a boat 
up  the  Yurapu,  which  penetrates  by  many  a gorge  into 
their  solemn  recesses,  but  had  not  strength  to  carry  out 
my  wish. 

After  this  I exchanged  the  silence  or  low  musical 
speech  of  Aino  guides  for  the  harsh  and  ceaseless 
clatter  of  Japanese.  At  Yamakushinoi,  a small  hamlet 
on  the  seashore,  where  I slept,  there  was  a sweet,  quiet 
yadoya.,  delightfully  situated,  with  a wooded  cliff  at  the 
back,  over  which  a crescent  hung  out  of  a pure  sky ; 
and  besides^  there  were  the  more  solid  pleasures  of  fish, 
eggs,  and  black  beans.  Thus,  instead  of  being  starved 
and  finding  wretched  accommodation,  the  week  I spent 


THE  CBOWS. 


:i5i 

on  Volcano  Bay  has  been  the  best  fed,  as  it  was  cer- 
tainly the  most  comfortable,  week  of  my  travels  in 
Northern  Japan. 

Another  glorious  day  favoured  my  ride  to  Mori,  but 
I was  unfortunate  in  my  horse  at  each  stage,  and  the 
Japanese  guide  was  grumpy  and  ill-natured,  a most 
unusual  thing.  Otoshib^  and  a few  other  small  villages 
of  grey  houses,  with  “an  ancient  and  fish-like  smell,” 
lie  along  the  coast,  busy  enough  doubtless  in  the 
season,  but  now  looking  deserted  and  decayed,  and 
houses  are  rather  plentifully  sprinkled  along  many 
parts  of  the  shore,  with  a wonderful  profusion  of  vege- 
tables and  flowers  about  them,  raised  from  seeds  liber- 
ally supplied  by  the  Kaitakushi  Department  from  its 
Nanai  experimental  farm  and  nurseries.  For  a consid- 
erable part  of  the  way  to  Mori  there  is  no  track  at  all, 
though  there  is  a good  deal  of  travel.  One  makes 
one’s  way  fatiguingly  along  soft  sea  sand  or  coarse 
shingle  close  to  the  sea,  or  absolutely  in  it,  under  cliffs 
of  hardened  clay  or  yellow  conglomerate,  fording  many 
small  streams,  several  of  which  have  cut  their  way 
deeply  through  a stratum  of  black  volcanic  sand.  I 
have  crossed  about  100  rivers  and  streams  on  the  Yezo 
coast,  and  all  the  larger  ones  are  marked  by  a most 
noticeable  peculiarity,  i.e.  that  on  nearing  the  sea,  they 
turn  south,  and  run  for  some  distance  parallel  with  it, 
before  they  succeed  in  finding  an  exit  through  the  bank 
of  sand  and  shingle  which  forms  the  beach  and  blocks 
their  progress. 

I have  not  said  anything  about  the  crows,  which  are 
a feature  of  Yezo,  and  one  which  the  colonists  would' 
willingly  dispense  with.  There  are  millions  of  them, 
and  in  many  places  they  break  the  silence  of  the  silent 
land  with  a Babel  of  noisy  discords.  They  are  every- 
where, and  have  attained  a degree  of  most  unpardona- 


152 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


ble  impertinence,  mingled  with  a cunning  and  sagacity 
which  almost  put  them  on  a level  with  man  in  some  cir- 
cumstances. Five  of  them  were  so  impudent  as  to 
alight  on  two  of  my  horses,  and  so  be  ferried  across  the 
Yurapugawa.  In  the  inn-garden  at  Mori  I saw  a dog 
eating  a piece  of  carrion  in  the  presence  of  several  of 
these  covetous  birds.  They  evidently  said  a great  deal 
to  each  other  on  the  subject,  and  now  and  then  one  or 
two  of  them  tried  to  pull  the  meat  away  from  him, 
which  he  resented.  At  last  a big,  strong  crow  suc- 
ceeded in  tearing  off  a piece,  with  which  he  returned 
to  the  pine  where  the  others  were  congregated,  and 
after  much  earnest  speech  they  all  surrounded  the  dog, 
and  the  leading  bird  dexterously  dropped  the  small 
piece  of  meat  within  reach  of  his  mouth,  when  he  im- 
mediately snapped  at  it,  letting  go  the  big  piece  un- 
wisely for  a second,  on  which  two  of  the  crows  flew 
away  with  it  to  the  pine,  and  with  much  fluttering  and 
hilarity  they  all  ate  or  rather  gorged  it,  the  deceived 
dog  looking  vacant  and  bewildered  for  a moment,  after 
which  he  sat  under  the  tree  and  barked  at  them  inanely. 
A gentleman  told  me  that  he  saw  a dog  holding  a piece 
of  meat  in  like  manner  in  the  presence  of  three  crows, 
which  also  vainly  tried  to  tear  it  from  him,  and  after  a 
consultation  they  separated,  two  going  as  near  as  they 
dared  to  the  meat,  while  the  third  gave  the  tail  a bite 
sharp  enough  to  make  the  dog  turn  round  with  a squeak, 
on  wiiich  the  other  villains  seized  the  meat,  and  the 
three  fed  triumphantly  upon  it  on  the  top  of  a wall.  In 
many  places  the}^  are  so  aggressive  as  to  destroy  the 
crops  unless  they  are  protected  by  netting.  They  as- 
semble on  the  sore  backs  of  horses  and  pick  them  into 
holes,  and  are  mischievous  in  many  ways.  They  are 
very  late  in  going  to  roost  and  are  early  astir  in  the 
morning,  and  are  so  bold  that  they  often  came  “ with 


NOISY  SELF-ASSERTION. 


153 


many  a stately  flirt  and  flutter”  into  the  verandah 
v^rhere  I was  sitting.  I never  watched  an  assemblage 
of  them  for  any  length  of  time  without  being  convinced 
that  there  was  a Nestor  among  them  to  lead  their  move- 
ments. Along  the  sea-shore  they  are  very  amusing,  for 
they  “ take  the  air  ” in  the  evening  seated  on  sand- 
banks facing  the  wind,  with  their  mouths  open.  They 
are  threatening  to  devour  the  settlers,  and  a crusade  is 
just  now  being  waged  against  them,  but  they  are 
Legion. 

On  the  way  I saw  two  Ainos  land  through  the  surf 
in  a canoe,  in  which  they  had  paddled  for  nearly  100 
miles.  A river  canoe  is  dug  out  of  a single  log,  and 
two  men  can  fashion  one  in  flve  days,  but  on  examining 
this  one,  which  was  twenty-flve  feet  long,  I found  that 
it  consisted  of  two  halves,  laced  together  with  very 
strong  bark  flbre  for  their  whole  length,  and  with  high 
sides  also  laced  on.  They  consider  that  they  are 
stronger  for  rough  sea  and  surf  work  when  made  in 
two  parts.  Their  bark-fibre  rope  is  beautifully  made, 
and  they  twist  it  of  all  sizes,  from  twine  up  to  a nine- 
inch  hawser. 

Beautiful  as  the  blue  ocean  was,  I had  too  much  of 
it,  for  the  horses  were  either  walking  in  a lather  of  sea 
foam  or  were  crowded  between  the  cliff  and  the  sea, 
every  larger  wave  breaking  over  my  foot  and  irrever- 
ently splashing  my  face,  and  the  surges  were  so  loud 
tongued  and  incessant,  throwing  themselves  on  the 
beach  with  a tremendous  boom,  and  drawing  the  shin- 
gle back  with  them  with  an  equally  tremendous  rattle, 
so  impolite  and  noisy,  bent  only  on  showing  their 
strength,  reckless,  rude,  self-willed,  and  inconsiderate ! 
This  purposeless  display  of  force,  and  this  incessant 
waste  of  power,  and  the  noisy  self-assertion  in  both,  ap- 
proached vulgarity ! 


154 


UNl^ EATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


Towards  evening  we  crossed  the  last  of  the  bridgeless 
rivers,  and  put  up  at  Mori,  which  I left  thi’ee  weeks 
before,  and  I was  very  thankful  to  have  accomplished 
my  object  without  disappointment,  disaster,  or  any  con- 
siderable discomfort.  Had  I not  promised  to  return  Ito 
to  his  master  by  a given  day,  I should  like  to  spend  the 
next  six  weeks  in  the  Yezo  wilds,  for  the  climate  is 
good,  the  scenery  beautiful,  and  the  objects  of  interest 
are  many. 

The  peaks  of  the  volcano  of  Ivomono-taki  were  blazing 
in  the  setting  sun,  and  with  a glass  I was  able  then,  and 
from  a point  above  the  lakes,  to  trace  its  configuration 
pretty  easily.  It  may  still  prove  mischievous,  and  in  its 
last  recent  eruption  it  covered  the  ground  in  its  neigh- 
bourhood with  pumice  to  a depth  of  three  feet.  The 
lava  ejected  by  it  and  the  other  volcanoes  of  this  coast 
appears  to  differ  considerably  from  that  of  the  flows 
from  the  flank  and  summit  craters  of  Manna  Loa  on 
Hawaii,  as  it  is  light  and  porous,  consisting  almost 
entirely  of  pumice,  which  on  Hawaii  appears  rarely,  and 
^ then  only  as  the  froth  on  streams,  which  solidify  into 
dense  basalt,  either  jagged  or  smooth.  The  highest 
peak  is  estimated  at  a height  of  3300  feet,  but  the  great 
crater,  which  is  about  three-quarters  of  a mile  in  diam- 
eter, lies  500  feet  lower,  and  contains  six  smaller  craters, 
one  of  which  was  active  in  1872.  One  of  these  is 
about  100  feet  deep.  Steam  escapes  from  many  aper- 
tures in  their  sides.  The  slopes  of  the  volcano  have  a 
scathed  and  dreary  look,  from  the  remains  of  a forest 
charred  in  the  last  great  eruption,  and  the  immediate 
neighbourhood  cannot  be  profitably  tilled  till  a greater 
depth  of  soil  has  accumulated  over  the  last  layer  of 
pumice.  In  the  meantime  nature  is  doing  her  best  to 
provide  it  b}^  covering  the  ground  with  young  woods. 

Another  splendid  day  favoured  my  ride  from  Mori  to 


END  OF  THE  YEZO  TOUR. 


155 


Tog^uoshita,  where  I remained  for  the  night,  and  I had 
exceptionally  good  horses  for  both  days,  though  the  one 
which  Ito  rode,  while  going  at  a rapid  “scramble,” 
threw  himself  down  three  times  and  rolled  over  to  rid 
himself  from  flies.  I had  not  admired  the  wood  between 
Mori  and  Ginsainoma  (the  lakes)  on  the  sullen,  grey 
day  on  which  I saw  it  before,  but  this  time  there  was 
an  abundance  of  light  and  shadow  and  solar  glitter,  and 
many  a scarlet  spray  and  crimson  trailer,  and  many  a 
maple  flaming  in  the  valleys,  gladdened  me  with  the 
music  of  colour.  From  the  top  of  the  pass  beyond  the 
lakes  there  is  a grand  view  of  the  volcano  in  all  its 
nakedness,  with  its  lava  beds  and  flelds  of  pumice,  with 
the  lakes  of  Onuma,  Konuma,  and  Ginsainoma,  lying  in 
the  forests  at  its  feet,  and  from  the  top  of  another  hill 
there  is  a remarkable  view  of  windy  Hakodat<^,  with  its 
headland  looking  like  Gibraltar.  The  slopes  of  this 
hill  are  covered  with  the  Aconitum  Japonicum^  of  which 
the  Ainos  make  their  arrow  poison. 

The  yadoya  at  Togenoshita  was  a very  pleasant  and 
friendly  one,  and  when  Ito  woke  me  yesterday  morning, 
saying,  “ Are  you  sorry  that  it’s  the  last  morning  ? I 
am,”  I felt  we  had  one  subject  in  common,  for  I was 
very  sorry  to  end  my  pleasant  Yezo  tour,  and  very  sorry 
to  part  with  the  boy  who  had  made  himself  more  use- 
ful and  invaluable  even  than  before.  It  was  most 
wearisome  to  have  Hakodate  in  sight  for  twelve  miles, 
so  near  across  the  bay,  so  far  across  the  long,  flat,  stony 
strip  which  connects  the  headland  upon  which  it  is 
built  with  the  mainland.  For  about  thi*ee  miles  the 
road  is  rudely  macadamised,  and  as  soon  as  the  bare- 
footed horses  get  upon  it  they  seem  lame  of  all  their 
legs ; they  hang  back,  stumbling,  dragging,  edging  to 
the  side,  and  trying  to  run  down  every  opening,  so  that 
when  we  got  into  the  interminable  main  street  I sent 


156 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


Ito  on  to  the  Consulate  for  my  letters,  and  dismounted, 
hoping  that  as  it  was  raining  I should  not  see  any 
foreigners ; but  I was  not  so  lucky,  for  first  I met  Mr 
Dening,  and  then,  seeing  the  Consul  and  Dr.  Hepburn 
coming  down  the  road,  evidently  dressed  for  dining  in 
the  flag-ship,  and  looking  spruce  and  clean,  I dodged  up 
an  alley  to  avoid  them ; but  they  saw  me,  and  did  not 
wonder  that  I wished  to  escape  notice,  for  my  old  bettors 
hat,  my  torn  green  paper  waterproof,  and  my  riding- 
skirt  and  boots,  were  not  only  splashed  but  caked  with 
mud,  and  I had  the  general  look  of  a person  “ fresh  from 
the  wilds.”  I.  L.  B. 


ITINEBART. 


ITINERARY  OF 

TOUR 

IN 

YEZO. 

Hakodate  to 

No.  of  houses. 
Jap.  Aino. 

Ri. 

Ch6 

Ginsainoma  . 

4 

7 

18 

Mori  . . . 

. 105 

4 

Mororan  . . 

. 57 

11 

Horobets 

. 18 

47 

5 

1 

Shiraoi  . . 

. 11 

51 

6 

32 

. Tomakomai  . 

. 38 

5 

21 

Yubets  . . 

7 

3 

3 

5 

Sarufuto  . . 

. 63 

7 

5 

Biratori  . . 

53 

5 

Mombets 

. 27 

5 

1 

From  Horobets  to 

Jap. 

Aino. 

Ri. 

Ch6. 

Old  Mororan 

9 

30 

4 

28 

Usu  .... 

3 

99 

6 

2 

Lebunge  . , 

1 

27 

5 

22 

Oshamamb^ 

. 56 

38 

6 

34 

Yamakushinai 

. 40 

4 

18 

Otoshibe  . . 

. 40 

2 

3 

Mori  . . . 

. 105 

3 

29 

Togenoshita  . 

. 55 

6 

7 

Hakodatd 

37,000  souls 

3 

29 

About  358  English  miles. 


158 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


JAPANESE  PROGRESS. 

A Dubious  Climate  — Missionary  Ardour  — A Political  Move  — An 
Opinion  on  the  Government  — “Squeezes”  — Lack  of  Persever- 
ance— A Japanese  Ironclad — Eealities  of  Progress. 

Hakodate:,  Yezo. 

The  weather  has  been  abominable  since  I returned, 
with  the  mercury  hanging  about  80°,  the  mosquitoes 
rampant,  the  air  so  damp  that  mildew  has  to  be  removed 
from  leather  every  few  hours,  and  a hot,  depressing 
wind  with  a hot,  drizzling  rain.  If  I complain  of  the 
lifelessness  of  the  climate  of  Japan,  and  its  lack  of  morn- 
ing and  evening  freshness,  people  always  say,  “Wait 
till  October,”  and  I am  beginning  to  think  that  October 
and  November  are  the  only  pleasant  months,  for  the 
cold  of  winter  is  spoken  of  as  “ raw  and  penetrating.” 
The  steamy  atmosphere  does  not  affect  Mr.  Dening’s 
missionary  zeal,  which  is  perfectly  indefatigable.  Be- 
sides the  two  Sunday  preachings  and  two  weekly 
preachings  at  Ono  and  Arikawa,  and  two  weekly  preach- 
ings and  three  Bible  classes  in  Hakodate  in  addition,  he 
is  going  to  open  a new  station  at  Nanai,  where  there 
are  many  samurai^  and  it  is  from  among  these,  and  not 
from  among  the  common  people  — in  whom  the  religious 
instinct  and  the  spirit  of  religious  inquiry  seem  quite 
dead,  — that  converts  have  been  made.  The  foundation- 
stone  of  an  English  Episcopal  Church  has  been  laid 
since  I returned,  by  Mr.  Eusden,  H.B.M.’s  Consul,  in 
the  presence  of  the  eight  Japanese  converts,  whose 


A POLITICAL  MOVE. 


159 


names  were  placed  in  a cavity  in  the  stone,  and  a few 
others,  with  a considerable  crowd  of  native  onlookers. 
It  shows  the  toleration  granted  to  Christianity  that  this 
small  body  of  Christians  should  have  been  able  to  pur- 
chase a site  on  the  main  street  on  which  to  erect  a con- 
spicuous religious  edifice. 

Some  important  public  events  have  occurred  lately. 
A portion  of  the  Imperial  Guard  has  mutinied  in 
Tokiyfi  (not  from  political  motives,  however),  much 
blood  has  been  shed,  and  the  Prime  Minister  has  issued 
a proclamation  warning  people  “not  to  be  excited.” 
Almost  coincidently  with  this  event  Japan  has  taken 
the  first  step  in  the  direction  of  constitutional  Govern- 
ment by  the  issuing  of  a proclamation  by  the  Mikado 
empowering  the  election  of  Provincial  Assemblies  in 
March  of  next  year,  which  are  to  have  control  of  the 
local  taxation.  The  qualification  for  electors  is  fixed 
so  very  low  that  suffrage  will  be  almost  universal,  and 
voting  is  to  be  by  ballot  I Although  it  is  a small  and 
somewhat  hampered  concession  to  the  principle  of  popu- 
lar government,  it  is  an  important  step  for  an  Asiatic 
despotism  to  take  under  present  circumstances.  It  is 
placing  a degree  of  power  in  the  hands  of  millions  of 
ignorant  peasants,  who,  until  lately,  were  practically 
serfs,  and  it  seems  to  me  not  only  a sign  of  the  fidelity 
of  the  Government  to  its  promises,  but  of  its  confidence 
in  the  general  approval  of  the  existing  order  of  things. 
I think  none  the  worse  of  the  Government  for  delaying 
this  step,  and  for  taking  it  now  with  extreme  caution. 

There  is  a great  deal  of  indiscriminate  and  unwise 
laudation  of  everything  Japanese,  and  much  harm  has 
been  done  by  it ; but,  on  the  other  hand,  the  carping 
and  sneering  with  which  every  fresh  Japanese  move- 
ment is  received  in  other  quarters  is  very  unbecoming, 
and  very  lacerating  to  the  feelings  of  a people  unduly 


160 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


sensitive  to  foreign  criticism.  I scarcely  venture  to 
give  an  opinion,  but  it  is  impossible  to  avoid  forming 
one  gradually,  and  I am  more  and  more  inclined  to  think 
that  Iwakura,  Saneyoshi,  Terashima,  and  others  who 
have  guided  affairs  since  the  Restoration,  are  both  able 
and  patriotic ; that  they  have  shown,  and  are  showing, 
most  extraordinary  capacity  in  the  conduct  of  affairs, 
hampered  as  they  are  by  the  not  always  harmonious 
demands  of  foreign  Governments ; that  though  they 
are  ambitious  they  are  also  honest  men,  and  that  their 
actions  and  policy  prove  them  to  be  actuated  by  an 
intense  desire  to  promote  the  national  well-being  and 
greatness,  and  not  their  individual  aggrandisement. 

Of  course  among  so  many  changes,  many  of  them  of 
a fundamental  nature,  we  must  expect  some  bungling 
to  occur,  and  it  has  occurred,  and  some  expensive  ex- 
periments have  turned  out  abortive.  Some  of  the  inno- 
vations, too,  are  little  better  than  patchwork,  and  some 
strike  one  as  totally  incongruous.  Supposing  the  heads 
of  the  Government  to  be  honest  men,  we  must  not  over- 
look the  fact  that  they  have  to  work  through  a large 
army  of  officials,  and  that  Asiatic  officialdom,  though  it 
has  never  touched  such  depths  of  corruption  in  Japan 
as  in  China  and  some  other  countries,  is  essentially 
untrustworthy  where  money  is  concerned,  and  that  the 
idea  of  being  content  with  a salary  is  a new  one  to  the 
official  mind.  Here,  in  Yezo,  enormous  sums  have  been 
undoubtedly  squandered,  and  only  a limited  part  of  the 
liberal  appropriations  for  the  KaitakusTii  Department 
has  reached  the  objects  for  which  it  was  intended,  in 
consequence  of  the  repeated  “squeezes,”  and  the  same 
thing  may  be  stated  in  greater  or  less  degree  concerning 
most  grants  for  public  works. 

But  taking  Yezo  as  an  example  of  what  has  been 
done  by  the  present  Government,  we  find  complete 


AN  OPINION  ON  THE  GOVERNMENT. 


161 


security  for  life  and  property  — the  chief  desideratum 
of  any  government,  aborigines  enjoying  nearly  equal 
rights  with  their  conquerors,  rapid  detection  of  crime, 
prisons  and  hospitals  on  the  most  enlightened  systems, 
liberal  provision  made  for  education  and  medical  aid  in 
remote  districts,  complete  religious  toleration,  taxation 
on  equitable  principles,  an  agricultural  college,  and 
model  farms,  a Custom-House  and  Post-Office  admir- 
ably managed,  trade  unhampered  by  vexatious  restric- 
tions, and  improvements  in  active  operation  in  many 
parts  of  the  island. 

On  the  other  hand,  some  of  the  weak  points  of  Japan- 
ese administration  are  epitomised  here.  Public  money 
is  eaten  up  by  an  army  of  underpaid  officials,  who  are 
to  be  seen  idling  and  “ kicking  their  heels  ” in  all  the 
public  offices,  four  or  five  of  them  doing  the  work  which 
would  be  accomplished  by  a single  Englishman.  This 
arises  partly  from  the  number  of  over-educated  young 
men,  trained  in  Japan  or  elsewhere  at  Government 
expense,  for  whom  Government  employment  must  be 
found,  and  parti}"  from  the  fact  that  when  a Japanese 
receives  anything  but  a most  subordinate  position,  he 
creates  as  many  “ situations  ” as  possible  for  his  friends. 
Though  crime  is  readily  detected,  the  administration  of 
justice  is  very  unsatisfactory,  specially  in  civil  cases. 
Much  money  has  been  literally  sunk  in  expensive  ex- 
periments, and  vast  resources,  such  as  the  coal-fields, 
remain  undeveloped,  from  a jealousy  of  the  introduc- 
tion of  foreign  capital.  A necessity  for  Yezo  is  good 
roads,  yet  the  main  road  from  Hakodate  to  Satsuporo, 
on  which  thousands  of  yen  are  constantly  spent,  is  in 
such  a condition  from  the  use  of  bad  materials,  and 
from  broken  bridges  and  choked,  ill-constructed  drains, 
that  a wheeled  conveyance  can  scarcely  pass  over  its 
whole  length.  Schemes  are  started  on  a grand  scale, 


162 


UNBEATEN  TliACES  IN  JAPAN. 


and,  after  much  public  money  has  been  spent  upon 
them,  they  are  either  abandoned,  after  some  progress 
has  been  made,  without  any  apparent  reason,  or  because 
it  is  found  that  some  insuperable  obstacle  to’  their  suc- 
cess has  been  overlooked,  or  the  attention  of  the  offi- 
cials lapses  and  grows  languid,  and  deterioration  sets 
in. 

I observed  many  instances  of  this  last  failing  at  the 
experimental  farm  at  Nanai.  The  managers  imported 
at  a cost  of  1000  yen  a fine ‘Arabian  horse,  a really 
beautiful  creature,  of  which  they  were  very  proud  so 
long  as  he  was  a novelty,  but  he  is  .now  suffering  from 
most  discreditable  neglect.  His  fetlock  is  badly  cut 
from  careless  hobbling,  and  from  lack  of  grooming  his 
beautiful  skin  is  covered  with  hundreds  of  ticks.  Sev- 
eral other  tilings  are  suffering  similarly  from  lack  of 
persevering  supervision,  and  that  on  an  establishment 
overloaded  with  officials.  Piers  which  would  be  of 
great  value  are  carried  out  as  at  Mori,  850  feet  into  the 
sea,  where  they  are  perfectly  useless,  and  are  then 
allowed  to  decay,  and  small  enterprises,  which  would 
cost  little,  but  would  confer  immense  benefit  on  the 
island,  are  ignored  in  favour  of  costly  projects  which 
make  a show,  but  are  comparatively  useless. 

One  of  the  expensive  projects  of  the  Empire  is  before 
me  now  in  the  form  of  a very  fine  ironclad,  with  a crew 
in  European  uniform,  and  drilled  in  European  fashion, 
and  a band  plajdng  European  music  on  European  in- 
struments. The  Hakodate  Japanese  are  wild  with 
pride  about  this  costly  production,  and  disparage  the 
British  war-vessel  Audacious.,  and  the  Russian  corvette,^ 

1 The  captain  of  this  corvette,  after  criticising  the  Japanese  naval 
drill  as  compared  with  the  British,  of  which  it  is  an  imitation,  remarked 
ahruiJtly  to  me,  “ Your  Prime  Minister  is  a great  man.  Berlin  has 
shown  him  a great  diplomatist.  He  has  given  England  more  than  the 
prestige  of  twenty  victories.” 


REALITIES  OF  PROGRESS, 


163 


also  at  anchor  in  the  bay.  Ito  walks  an  inch  high(  r, 
and  tells  me  that  “ everybody  says  ” that  in  action 
the  English  and  Russian  vessels  together  would  not 
have  “a  chance  against  the  Japanese  ironclad  ! ” They 
are  pleased  with  this  because  it  makes  a show,  and 
apparently  places  Japan  on  a level  with  the  European 
powers,  and  care  little  that  the  high  road  between  th(‘ 
two  capitals  is  now  in  such  a state  that  a person  cannot 
travel  in  a huruma  over  it,  even  for  the  first  eighteen 
miles.  Such  incongruities,  and  many  others,  are  very 
unfortunate,  but  in  spite  of  all  that  is  open  to  adverse 
criticism,  there  is  no  denying  that  the  Empire  has  made 
almost  miraculous  progress  within  ten  years,  and  that, 
though  it  has  much  to  learn  by  failures,  it  is  still  mak- 
ing progress  steadily  according  to  the  latest  and  best 
ideas  of  modern  civilisation,  under  the  men  who  have 
abolished  class  distinctions,  and  have  raised  the  eta  to 
citizenship,  and  are  creating  a nation  of  freeholders  OTit 
of  a nation  of  serfs.  I.  L.  B. 


164 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


COMPLIMENTS. 

Pleasant  Last  Impressions  — The  Japanese  Junk  — Ito  Disappears  — 
My  Letter  of  Thanks  — Official  Letters  — A Servant’s  Epistle  — 
Japanese  Epistolary  Style. 


HAKODATf:,  Yezo,  September  14,  1878. 

This  is  my  last  day  in  Yezo,  and  the  sun,  shining 
brightly  over  the  grey  and  windy  capital,  is  touching 
the  pink  peaks  of  Komono-taki  with  a deeper  red,  and 
is  brightening  my  last  impressions,  which,  like  my  first, 
are  very  pleasant.  The  bay  is  deep  blue,  fiecked  with 
violet  shadows,  and  about  sixty  junks  are  fioating  upon 
it  at  anchor.  There  are  vessels  of  foreign  rig  too,  but 
the  wan,  pale  junks  lying  motionless,  or  rolling  into 
the  harbour  under  their  great  white  sails,  fascinate  me 
as  when  I first  saw  them  in  the  Gulf  of  Yedo.  They 
are  antique-looking  and  picturesque,  but  are  fitter  to 
give  interest  to  a picture  than  to  battle  with  stormy 
seas. 

Most  of  the  junks  in  the  bay  are  about  120  tons 
burthen,  100  feet  long,  with  an  extreme  beam,  far  aft, 
of  twenty-five  feet.  The  bow  is  long,  and  curves  into 
a lofty  stem,  like  that  of  a Roman  galley,  finished  with 
a beak  head,  to  secure  the  forestay  of  the  mast.  This 
beak  is  furnished  with  two  large,  goggle  eyes.  The 
mast  is  a ponderous  spar,  fifty  feet  high,  composed  of 
pieces  of  pine,  pegged,  glued,  and  hooped  together.  A 
heavy  yard  is  hung  amidships.  The  sail  is  an  oblong 
of  widths  of  strong,  white  cotton  artistically 


ITO  BISAPPEABS. 


165 


ered^  not  sewn  together,  but  laced  vertically,  leaving 
a decorative  lacing  six  inches  wide  between  each  two 
widths.  Instead  of  reefing  in  a strong  wind,  a width 
is  unlaced,  so  as  to  reduce  the  canvas  vertically,  not 
horizontally.  Two  blue  spheres  commonly  adorn  the 
sail.  The  mast  is  placed  well  abaft,  and  to  tack  or 
veer  it  is  only  necessary  to  reverse  the  sheet.  When 
on  a wind  the  long  bow  and  nose  serve  as  a head-sail. 
The  high,  square,  piled-up  stern,  with  its  antique  carv- 
ing, and  the  sides  with  their  lattice-work,  are  wonder- 
ful, together  with  the  extraordinary  size  and  projection 
of  the  rudder,  and  the  length  of  the  tiller.  The 
anchors  are  of  grapnel  shape,  and  the  larger  junks 
have  from  six  to  eight  arranged  on  the  fore-end,  giv- 
ing one  an  idea  of  bad  holding-ground  along  the  coast. 
They  really  are  much  like  the  shape  of  a Chinese 
“small-footed”  woman’s  shoe,  and  look  very  unman- 
ageable. They  are  of  unpainted  wood,  and  have  a 
wintry,  ghastly  look  about  them.^ 

I have  parted  with  Ito  finally  to-day,  with  great 
regret.  He  has  served  me  faithfully,  and  on  most 
common  topics  I can  get  much  more  information 
through  him  than  from  any  foreigner.  I miss  him  al- 
ready, though  he  insisted  on  packing  for  me  as  usual, 
and  put  all  my  things  in  order.  His  cleverness  is  some- 
thing surprising.  He  goes  to  a good,  manly  master, 
who  will  help  him  to  be  good,  and  set  him  a virtuous 
example,  and  that  is  a satisfaction.  Before  he  left  he 
wrote  a letter  for  me  to  the  Governor  of  Mororan, 
thanking  him  on  my  behalf  for  the  use  of  the  kuruma 
and  other  courtesies. 

A Japanese  letter  always  begins  with  a complhnent. 


1 The  duty  paid  hy  junks  is  4s.  for  each  twenty-five  tons,  hy  sailing 
ships  of  foreign  shape  and  rig  £2  for  each  100  tons,  and  hy  steamers  £.') 
for  each  100  tons. 


166 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


usually  to  the  health  of  the  person  addressed,  and  in 
the  case  of  an  inferior  at  least  concludes  with  an 
expression  of  humiliation,  followed  by  the  names  of  the 
sender  and  the  person  addressed,  the  latter  with  a hon- 
orific title.  I was  made  to  regret  that  I had  not  been 
able  “ to  worship  the  Governor’s  most  exalted  visage,” 
and  to  thank  him  “ with  veneration  for  the  use  of  his 
august  kuruma.)  and  for  the  other  exalted  Idndnesses 
which  it  had  pleased  him  to  show.”  The  letter  con- 
cluded with,  “ ]\Iy  august  mistress  lifts  this  up  for  your 
august  information.  I knock  my  head  against  the 
floor.  Tremblingly  said.” 

I cannot  get  a complete  literal  translation  of  this 
remarkable  document,  but  Mr.  Chamberlain  kindly 
gave  me  some  samples  of  Japanese  letters  which  will 
interest  you  from  the  extreme  orientalism  of  their 
expressions,  though  possibly  they  do  not  go  very  far 
beyond  “your  obedient  humble  servant.” 

Invitation  to  an  Official  Dinner. 

“ As  [I]  am  desirous  of  making  an  august  feast  on 
the  approaching  15th  day  at  the  summer  palace  at 
Shiba,  [I]  am  desirous  of  [your]  august  approach  to 
that  place  on  that  day  at  three  o’clock  in  the  after- 
noon. [I]  lift  this  up  for  [your]  august  information. 
Tremblingly  said. 

“ 10th  year  of  Meiji,  12th  moon,  13th  day.” 
[Name  of  sender  and  person  addressed 
with  an  honorific  title.] 

Letter  from  a High  Official  to  thank  for  the  Present 
of  a Book. 

“ The  exalted  letter  has  been  worshipfully  perused, 
and  [I]  joyfully  congratulate  [you]  on  [your]  ever- 


A SERVANT’S  EPISTLE, 


167 


increasing  august  robustness, ^ notwithstanding  the 
perpetual  chilly  winds.  My  communication  regards 
the  volume  entitled  Corean  Primer  in  [your]  august 
possession,  which  was  mentioned  the  other  evening 
when  [I]  worshipped  your  eyebrow  [i,e,  met  you], 
and  which  [you]  have  augustly  condescended  to  send 
[to  me].  The  above  being  a valuable  and  wonderful 
book,  shall  be  garnered  for  ever  in  [my]  library,  and 
taken  out  and  perused. 

“ Respectful  veneration. 

“ 10th  moon,  13th  day.” 
[Names.] 

Letter  from  a Servant  to  his  Master^  who  was  Travelling 
in  the  Interior. 

“That  through  the  fierce  heat  the  exalted  master 
should  have  augustly  arrived  unhurt  in  the  mountains 
is  a subject  for  joyful  congratulation  and  great  felicity, 
which  is  felt  with  veneration.  Meanwhile,  in  the 
exalted  house  there  is  no  change,  and  all  within  the 
august  gate  are  augustly  without  hurt,  therefore  pray 
condescend  to  feel  augustly  at  ease.  [Your]  august 
despatch  reached  [my]  hands  last  night,  and  [I]  there- 
fore have  this  morning  without  delay  augustly  for- 
warded up  [to  you]  eight  newspapers  and  five  letters, 
and  pray  [you]  may  condescend  to  receive  them. 
Pray  condescend  to  take  august  care  [of  your  health] 
during  the  great  heat. 

“ 7th  moon,  22d  day.” 
[Names.] 

The  style  of  letters  is  completely  different  to  that  of 
conversation,  and  to  that  used  in  books,  and  almost 

1 This  is  a usual  form,  and  is  used  quite  irrespectively  of  any  knowl- 
edge the  writer  may  have  of  the  state  of  the  health  of  the  person  he 
addresses. 


168 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


forms  a language  apart.  It  is  almost  entirely  Chinese, 
and  the  grandest  and  most  unusual  expressions  are 
sought  after  to  give  it  elegance,  and  to  bring  out  mark 
edly  the  abasement  of  the  sender  and  the  illustrious 
ness  of  the  person  addressed.  The  honorifics  and  ah 
this  paraphernalia  of  a peculiar  style  are  used  even  b}‘ 
parents  in  addressing  their  children.  The  Japanese 
are  great  let  ter- writers,  and  a good  epistolary  style 
and  good  handwriting  are  greatly  esteemed. 

Ito  writes  to  his  mother  at  great  length  once  a week, 
to  a number  of  young  friends,  and  even  to  acquaint- 
ances such  as  Kan  ay  a,  only  made  since  we  left  T6kiy6 
Everywhere  I have  observed  that  the  young  men  and 
women  spend  much  of  their  leisure  time  in  writing, 
and  one  important  branch  of  industry  is  the  designing 
of  decorated  paper  and  envelopes,  of  which  the  variety 
is  infinite.  Dexterity  in  the  use  of  the  camel’s  hair 
brush,  which  serves  for  a pen,  is  regarded  as  an  essen- 
tial result  of  education.  I.  L.  B. 


A MISEBABLE  DISAPPOINTMENT, 


169 


A CYCLONE. 

Pleasant  Prospects  — A Miserable  Disappointment  — Caught  in  a 
Typhoon  — A Dense  Fog  — Alarmist  Eumours  — A Welcome  at 
Tokiyo  — The  Last  of  the  Mutineers. 

H.B.M.’s  Legation,  Yedo,  Sept.  21. 

A PLACID  sea,  which  after  much  disturbance  had 
sighed  itself  to  rest,  and  a high,  steady  barometer  prom- 
ised a fifty  hours’  passage  to  Yokohama,  and  when  Dr. 
and  Mrs.  Hepburn  and  I left  Hakodate,  by  moonlight, 
on  the  night  of  the  14th,  as  the  only  passengers  in  the 
Hiogo  Maru.,  Captain  Moore,  her  genial,  pleasant  mas- 
ter, congratulated  us  on  the  rapid  and  delightful  pas- 
sage before  us,  and  we  separated  at  midnight  with  many 
projects  for  pleasant  intercourse  and  occupation. 

But  a more  miserable  voyage  I never  made,  and  it 
was  not  until  the  afternoon  of  the  17th  that  we  crawled 
.forth  from  our  cabins  to  speak  to  each  other.  On  the 
second  day  out,  great  heat  came  on  with  suffocating 
closeness,  the  mercury  rose  to  85°,  and  in  lat.  38°  0'  N. 
and  long.  141°  30'  E.  we  encountered  a “typhoon,” 
otherwise  a “ cyclone,”  otherwise  a “ revolving  hurri- 
cane,” which  lasted  for  twenty-five  hours,  and  “jetti- 
soned ” the  cargo.  Captain  Moore  has  given  me  a very 
interesting  diagram  of  it,  showing  the  attempts  which 
he  made  to  avoid  its  vortex  through  which  our  course 
would  have  taken  us,  and  to  keep  as  much  outside  it  as 
possible.  The  typhoon  was  succeeded  by  a dense  fog, 
so  that  our  fifty-hour  passage  became  seventy-two  hours, 


170 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


and  we  landed  at  Yokohama  near  upon  midnight  of  the 
17th,  to  find  traces  of  much  disaster,  the  whole  low- 
lying  country  flooded,  the  railway  between  Yokohama 
and  the  capital  impassable,  great  anxiety  about  the  rice 
crop,  the  air  full  of  alarmist  rumours,  and  paper  money, 
which  was  about  par  when  I arrived  in  May,  at  a dis- 
count of  13  per  cent ! In  the  early  part  of  this  year 
(1880)  it  has  touched  42  per  cent. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  the  railroad  was  re-opened,  and 
I came  here  with  Mr.  Wilkinson,  glad  to  settle  down 
to  a period  of  rest  and  ease  under  this  hospitable  roof. 
The  afternoon  was  bright  and  sunny,  and  TOkiyO  was 
looking  its  best.  The  long  lines  of  yasliikis  looked 
handsome,  the  castle  moat  was  so  full  of  the  gigantic 
leaves  of  the  lotus,  that  the  water  was  hardly  visible, 
the  grass  embankments  of  the  upper  moat  were  a bril- 
liant green,  the  pines  on  their  summits  stood  out  boldly 
against  the  clear  sky,  the  hill  on  which  the  Legation 
stands  looked  dry  and  cheerful,  and,  better  than  all,  I 
had  a most  kindly  welcome  from  those  who  have  made 
this  house  my  home  in  a strange  land. 

Tokiy6  is  tranquil,  that  is,  it  is  disturbed  only  by 
fears  for  the  rice-crop,  and  by  the  fall  in  satsu.  The 
military  mirtineers  have  been  tried,  popular  rumour  says 
tortured,  and  fifty-two  have  been  shot.  The  summer 
has  been  the  worst  for  some  years,  and  now  dark  heat, 
moist  heat,  and  nearly  ceaseless  rain  prevail.  People 
have  been  “ rained  up  ” in  their  summer  quarters. 
“ Surely  it  will  change  soon,”  people  say,  and  they  hare 
said  the  same  thing  for  three  months.  I.  L.  B. 


A METAMOBPHOSIS. 


171 


NOTES  ON  TOKIYO.i 


A.  Metamorphosis  — “ Magnificent  Distances  ” — Climate  — The  Cas- 
tle— The  Ofladal  Quarter  — The  “Feudal  Mansions  of  Yedo”  — 
.Commercial  Activity  — The  Canals  — Streets  and  Shop  Signs  — 
Street  Names. 

With  Yedo,^  the  mysterious  city  of  the  Sh6gun,  I 
have  nothing  to  do,  and  gladly  leave  it  to  the  researches  * 
of  the  learned  members  of  the  Asiatic  Society  of  Japan. 
Yedo  is  in  fact  no  more.  The  moats,  walls,  and  em- 
bankments, the  long  lines  of  decaying  yasMkis^  and  the 
shrines  of  Shiba  and  Uyeno,  with  the  glories  of  their 
gilded  and  coloured  twilight,  alone  recall  its  splendid 
past.  The  palace  within  the  castle  no  longer  exists, 
the  last  Sh6gun  lives  in  retirement  at  Shidzuoka ; the 
daimiyo  are  scattered  through  the  suburbs ; not  a “ two- 
sworded  ” man  is  to  be  seen ; Mutsuhito,  the  “ Spiritual 
Emperor,”  the  son  of  the  gods,  dressed  in  European 
clothes,  drives  through  streets  of  unconcerned  specta- 
tors in  a European  carriage ; twelve  years  have  meta- 
morphosed ancient  Yedo  into  modern  TokiyS,  and  if 
the  old  city,  with  its  buildings  and  customs,  be  not  alto- 
gether forgotten,  it  is  due  to  the  careful  and  loving 
labours  of  foreign  scholars. 

1 These  Notes  merely  refer  to  a few  of  the  features  of  Tokiyo,  at  the 
present  time.  A third  volume  would  scarcely  exhaust  its  interests  and 
peculiarities. 

2 The  British  Legation,  with  pathetic  Conservatism,  still  uses  this 
name  officially,  and  all  scholars  who  cling  to  the  past  of  the  Empire, 
and  ignore  the  “ vulgarity  ” of  Western  innovation,  do  the  same. 


172 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


The  first  thing  a stranger  tries  to  do,  is  to  get  a gen- 
eral idea  of  the  town,  but  the  ascent  of  Atagayama  and 
other  elevated  places  proves  a failure ; there  is  no  one 
point  from  which  it  can  be  seen,  and  the  only  way  of 
grasping  it  satisfactorily  would  be  from  a balloon! 
From  every  altitude,  however,  dark  patches  of  forest, 
the  low  elevation  crowned  by  the  walls  of  the  Castle 
topped  by  dark  groves  of  pine  and  cryptomeria,  broken 
hills  and  hollows  with  groups  of  temples,  hills  with 
streets  straggling  over  their  crests,  shady  places  where 
the  dead  lie,  parks,  temple  grounds,  and  garden-bor- 
dered streets,  sweeping,  tiled  roofs  of  temples,  small 
oblong  buildings  glaring  with  white  cement,  long  lines 
of  low,  grey  roofs,  green  slopes,  gleams  of  moats  and 
canals,  and  Europeanised  buildings,  conspicuous  by 
their  mndows  and  their  ugliness,  are  sure  to  be  seen, 
and  the  eye  soon  learns  to  distinguish  as  landmarks  the 
groves  of  Shiba,  Uyeno,  and  the  Castle.  On  fine  days 
Fujisan  looms  grandly  in  the  distance,  and  the  white 
sails  of  junks,  on  the  blue  waters  of  the  Gulf  of  Yedo, 
give  life  to  a somewhat  motionless  scene. 

No  view  of  T6kiy6,  leaving  out  the  impression  pro- 
duced by  size,  is  striking,  indeed  there  is  a monotony 
of  meanness  about  it.  The  hills  are  not  heights,  and 
there  are  no  salient  objects  to  detain  the  eye  for  an  in- 
stant. As  a city  it  lacks  concentration.  Masses  of 
greenery,  lined  or  patched  with  grey,  and  an  absence  of 
beginning  or  end,  look  suburban  rather  than  metropoli- 
tan. Far  away  in  the  distance  are  other  grey  patches ; 
you  are  told  that  those  are  still  T6kiy6,  and  you  ask  no 
more.  It  is  a city  of  “ magnificent  distances  ” without 
magnificence.  You  can  drive  in  a crooked  line  fifteen 
miles  from  north  to  south,  and  eleven  miles  from  east  to 
west  at  least,  and  are  still  in  T6kiy6.  The  blue  waters 
of  the  gulf  are  its  only  recognisable  boundary.  It  is 


CLIMATE, 


173 


an  aggregate  of  125  villages,  which  grew  together 
round  the  great  fortress  of  the  Mikado’s  chief  vassal, 
and  which,  while  retaining  their  parks,  country  houses, 
gardens,  lakes,  streams,  and  fields,  their  rustic  lanes  and 
sylvan  beauty,  have  agreed  to  call  themselves  T6kiy6, 
and  in  certain  quarters,  such  as  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  Nippon-Bashi,  Asakusa,  and  the  Shimmei-mai,  have 
packed  themselves  pretty  closely  together.  The  bright 
Sumida,  which" once  enclosed  a part  of  the  city,  has  now 
a transpontine  T6kiy6,  the  populous  district  of  Hondjo 
on  its  other  side,  and  on  the  east  and  west  miniature 
hills  and  valleys  with  rice-fields,  pines,  camellias,  and 
bamboo,  come  up  into  the  suburbs.  There  is  no  smoke, 
and  no  hum  or  clatter  ascends. 

I do  not  intend  to  describe  T6kiy6.  This  has  been 
done  often,  and  in  some  cases  well,  in  so  far  as  it  is 
possible  to  do  it  at  all.  The  Notes  which  follow  were 
taken  for  my  own  information,  and,  in  connection  with 
the  more  pictorial  accounts  given  by  other  travellers, 
may  help  my  readers  to  some  additional  knowledge  of 
the  city  which  has  been  raised  to  the  dignity  of  the 
capital  of  Japan. 

T6kiy6  is  situated  in  lat.  35°  39'  N.  and  in  long.  139° 
45'  E.,  at  the  head  of  the  Gulf  of  Yedo,  where  the 
Sumida,  the  Kanda,  and  several  small  streams  fall  into 
the  sea.  Thus  it  is  slightly  south  of  Gibraltar,  but  its 
isotherm  is  that  of  Bologna  and  Marseilles.  Its  annual 
rainfall  is  about  60  inches.  That  of  1878,  however, 
was  69.460  inches,  of  which  18  inches  fell  in  September. 
The  average  number  of  rain-days  is  98.  The  months 
•f  least  rain  are  December,  January,  and  February,  and 
those  of  the  greatest  are  usually  June  and  July.  The 
snow-fall  is  very  light,  and  snow  rarely  lies  long  on  the 
ground.  Days  on  which  the  mercury  never  rises  above 
the  freezing-point  are  very  rare,  and  only  occur  with  a 


174 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


persistent  north-west  wind ; but  it  often  falls  below  32° 
at  night,  for  weeks  together,  and  the  average  number 
of  such  nights  is  75  per  season.  It  is  quite  a mistake 
to  suppose  that  Japan  has  no  winter.  The  cold  is  pene- 
trating and  merciless,  owing  to  the  humidity  of  the 
climate.  People  suffer  more  at  T6kiy6  with  the  mer 
cury  at  36°,  than  in  Colorado,  when  it  is  below  zero. 
As  the  cold  increases,  so  does  the  amplitude  of  the  T6- 
kiyans,  for  they  put  on  one  wadded  garment  above 
another,  and  withdrawing  their  hands  into  the  wide  and 
sticking  out  sleeves,  looked  like  trussed  poultry.  Bare 
heads  are  not  seen  in  winter,  and  at  the  top  of  this 
mass  of  padding,  two  eyes  peer  from  among  folds  of 
cotton. 

Heat  sets  in  in  June,  and  often  continues  without  a 
break  until  the  middle  or  end  of  September.  In  Au- 
gust the  mercury  occasionally  rises  to  96° ; foreigners 
fly  from  the  capital,  and  the  enforced  clothing  of  the 
natives  is  minimised.  In  January  and  February  the 
mercury  falls  as  low  as  25°.  “ Typhoons,”  or  revolving 

hurricanes,  occur  in  July,  August,  and  September,  and 
earthquakes  so  frequently,  that  it  requires  a pretty 
smart  shock  to  disturb  the  equanimity  of  the  residents ; 
but  there  has  not  been  a really  severe  one  since  1854, 
when  a considerable  portion  of  the  city  was  destroyed. 
T6kiy6  has  a long  summer-time,  beginning  really  early 
in  May,  and  extending  into  October,  and  its  winter  is 
bright  and  sunny  until  February,  when  the  weather 
breaks,  with  snow,  rain,  and  gales.  The  soil  is  alluvial, 
with  a large  proportion  of  clay;  but  the  streets  dry 
immediately  after  rain,  and  there  are  neither  holes  ncft: 
ruts  for  the  retention  of  stagnant  water.  Such,  in 
brief,  are  its  general  climatic  conditions. 

Its  population,  like  that  of  most  eastern  cities,  has 
been  much  exaggerated,  and  the  withdrawal  of  the  re- 


THE  CASTLE. 


175 


fcaiiiers  of  the  daimiyd  has  reduced  it  to  the  manageable 
size  of  New  York  and  Paris.  It  has  236,961  houses, 
inhabited  by  1,036,771  persons,  of  whom  536,621  are 
males  and  500,150  are  females,  a disparity  more  easily 
accounted  for  in  TOkiyO  than  elsewhere. 

The  Castle,  with  its  surroundings,  the  first  object 
which  impresses  a stranger  on  arriving  from  Yokohama 
by  railroad,  formerly  known  as  the  “ Official  Quarter,” 
and  still  retaining  a strong  fiavour  of  officialism,  is  the 
nucleus  round  wliich  the  city  has  crystallised;  and 
though  the  Castle  Palace  within  the  inner  enclosure 
has  disappeared,  the  Castle  itself  is  much  as  it  was 
when  completed  by  ly^mitsu,  two  centuries  and  a half 
ago. 

Its  broad  moats  of  deep,  green  waters,  covered  thick- 
ly with  magnificent  lotus  blossoms  in  the  late  summer, 
and  with  wild-fowl  in  the  early  winter,  are  very  impos- 
ing, from  their  depth  and  width,  the  height  of  their 
ramparts,  and  the  greenness  of  the  lawn-like  turf  with 
which  they  are  covered,  and  the  size  of  the  trees  by 
which  they  are  crowned.  These  ramparts,  in  some 
places,  are  100  feet  high,  and  there  are  eleven  miles  of 
moats.  Equally  imposing  are  the  stupendous  walls, 
formed-  of  polygonal  blocks  of  stone,  laid  without  mor- 
tar, rising  almost  perpendicularly  from  the  water,  with 
kiosk-shaped  towers  on  their  angles,  and  a three-sto- 
reyed tower  overhanging  the  Hasu-ike  gate.  The  gates, 
twenty-seven  in  number,  are  composed  of  massive  tim- 
bers on  handsome  stone  foundations,  and,  in  the  lower 
castle,  are  approached  by  bridges  and  causeways. 
Their  height  varies  from  ten  to  eighteen  feet,  and  the 
inner  ones  have  two-storeyed  buildings  above  them, 
with  high,  ornamental  roofs,  and  long,  upturned  eaves. 
On  the  lower  ground,  fronting  the  sea,  the  nearly  per- 
pendicular, stone-faced  embankments  are  60  feet  high. 


176 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


The  Palace  was  burned  down  in  1873 ; and  within  the 
inner  moat  there  is  little  but  the  beautiful  Fukiagd 
Gardens  mentioned  on  page  36,  the  Treasury  go- 
downs,  a three-store^^ed  tower,  and  a drill-ground  for 
troops.  Altogether,  the  Castle  is  by  far  the  most  im- 
pressive feature  of  T6kiy6,  from  its  vastness,  and  from 
the  size  of  the  stones  used  in  the  walls,  some  of  which 
are  16  feet  in  length.  It  is,  moreover,  very  puzzling, 
and  though  I spent  some  weeks  within  its  moats,  I 
always  found  a little  difficulty  in  retracing  my  way  to 
Kojimachi. 

The  old  “ Official  Quarter  ” is  remarkable  for  the 
long,  dreary  lines  of  the  external  buildings  of  a num- 
ber of  the  ^asJiikis,  which  were  formerly  the  residences 
of  daimi^o,  and  are  now  either  falling  into  decay  or  are 
utilised  as  public  offices,  whilst  not  a few  have 
altogether  disappeared,  and  the  spaces  on  which  they 
stood  are  enclosed  with  palisades,  and  are  used  for  ex- 
ercising troops,  dressed  in  European  fashion,  and  drilled 
by  French  officers.  Modern  officialism  has  taken  pos- 
session of  this  quarter,  which  contains,  among  much 
else,  the  buildings  occupied  by  the  Supreme  Council, 
the  Imperial  Treasury,  which  includes  the  Finance 
Department,  and  several  bureaus ; the  Departments  of 
the  Interior,  Justice,  Education,  Religion,  War,  and 
Marine  ; the  headquarters  of  the  French  Military  Mis- 
sion ; the  Engineering,  Military,  and  Foreign  Language 
Colleges ; the  Military  Hospital,  the  Exhibition  Build- 
ing, the  Government  Printing-Office,  the  Barracks  of 
the  Imperial  Guard,  and  of  a few  infantry  and  artillery 
regiments,  the  Municipal  Offices,  the  Sli6konsha,  a new 
Shiiit6  shrine,  erected  to  the  memory  of  those  who  fell 
in  the  civil  war,  and  the  racecourse  and  beacon.  It  is 
significant  of  the  change  which  has  turned  Yedo  into 
T0kiy6,  that  the  flags  of  four  “barbarian”  nations  — 


FEUDAL  MANSIONS  OF  YEDO:^ 


177 


England,  Russia,  Italy,  and  Germany  — are  displayed 
from  four  conspicuous  buildings  which  have  been 
erected  in  this  formerly  sacred  region.  Many  of  the 
Government  Departments  are  accommodated  in  the 
yashikis  of  the  former  Princes  of  the  Empire,  and 
the  French  Military  Mission  has  its  quarters  in  the  li 
Kamon  yashiki^  situated  on  a hill  close  to  the  British 
I^egation,  its  great,  dull  red  portal  being  the  most  con- 
spicuous object  in  the  neighbourhood. 

Next  to  the  Castle,  the  most  characteristic  features 
of  the  city  are  these  “Feudal  Mansions  of  Yedo,” 
the  yashikis  of  the  former  daimiyd^  which  lie  within 
the  Castle  moat  in  great  numbers,  and  are  scattered 
over  the  northern  and  southern  quarters  of  the  town. 
Whether  they  are  occupied  as  Departments  or  not,  the 
street  fronts  of  the  outer  buildings  always  present 
the  same  dreary,  silent,  monotonous,  rat-haunted  look, 
grimness  without  grandeur. 

All  are  on  the  same  pattern,  with  insignificant  varia- 
tions regulated  by  etiquette.  All  are  surrounded  by 
uncovered  ditches  with  stone-faced  sides,  crossed  at 
the  gateways  by  stone  platforms,  and  varying  in  width 
from  eighteen  inches  to  trenches  which  may  almost  be 
called  moats.  Inside  the  ditch  are  foundations,  from 
one  to  six  feet  in  height,  of  blocks  of  stone  of  irregu- 
lar shape,  carefully  fitted  without  mortar,  on  wliich 
stand  the  nagoya^  the  quarters  formerly  occupied  by 
the  two-sworded  retainers  of  the  princes  as  the  exterior 
defences  of  the  mansion.  They  are  long,  continuous 
lines  of  building,  mile  after  mile  of  them,  their  dismal 
frontage  only  broken  by  gateways  of  heavy  timbers 
clamped  with  bronze  or  iron.  Heavily-tiled  roofs,  with 
the  crest  of  the  daimiyd  on  the  terminal  tiles,  the  upper 
storeys,  where  they  have  them,  covered  with  white 
plaster,  the  lower  painted  black,  or  faced  with  dark- 


178 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


coloured  tiles  placed  diagonally,  with  their  joints  cov- 
ered with  white  plaster  and  forming  a diamond  pattern, 
the  windows  broader  than  high,  massively  barred,  and 
often  projecting  from  the  walls,  form  a style  of  street 
architecture  as  peculiar  as  it  is  unimposing. 

Tlie  gateways,  which  at  intervals  break  the  dreary 
lines,  are  striking  and  picturesque,  subject,  like  the 
roofs,  to  variations  which,  to  the  initiated,  indicate  the 
former  owner’s  rank.  The  cluef  entrances  consist  of 
two  large,  weighty,  folding  doors,  studded  outside  with 
heavy  knobs  of  metal,  the  great  posts  on  which  they 
swing,  and  the  ponderous  beam  overhead  often  being 
sheathed  with  the  same.  They  are  equipped  with  por- 
ters’ lodges  and  postern  gates  for  use  in  case  of  fire  or 
earthquake.  Among  the  grandest  are  those  of  the 
yashiki.,  now  occupied  by  the  Wai-  Department,  and  of 
that  lately  occupied  by  the  Education  Department ; 
but  there  are  others  of  singular  stateliness,  including 
the  dull  red  portal  previously  mentioned. 

The  nagoya  run  round  a large  area,  which  may  be 
regarded  as  having  been  tne  camp  of  the  former  owner, 
the  mansion  itself,  the  kernel  of  the  whole,  standing  in 
the  middle  in  a courtyard,  sometimes  altogether 
flagged,  and  at  others  pebbled,  with  flagged  pathways, 
privacy  being  secured  by  a plastered  wall  or  wooden 
screen.  These  mansions  differ  from  ordinary  Japanese 
houses  mainly  in  the  number  and  size  of  the  rooms  [as 
may  be  seen  in  the  yashiki  occupied  by  the  Offices  of 
the  Government  of  T6kiy6],  among  which  are  a hall  of 
audience,  waiting  rooms,  private  apartments,  and  sep- 
arate suites  of  rooms,  often  of  great  extent,  for  the 
ladies  of  the  household,  with  small  guard-rooms  for  the 
retainers  on  duty.  The  posts  and  beams  are  of  finely 
grained,  unvarnished  wood,  ornamented  at  the  joints 
with  pieces  of  metal,  pierced  or  engraved,  and  bearing 


FEUDAL  MANSIONS  OF  TEDON 


170 


the  owner’s  crest.  The  paper  screens  and  sliding 
doors  are  either  plain  or  heavily  covered  with  gold-leaf 
adorned  with  paintings,  and  the  floors  are  finely  matted 
Of  furniture  there  is  and  was  none.  These  mansions, 
however,  belong  to  Yedo  rather  than  to  T6kiy6,  and  to 
tlie  province  of  the  antiquary.^  ^ 

The  fire  look-out  stations,  or  wooden  towers,  erected 
on  the  top  of  the  main  hall,  are  still  conspicuoucj 
objects.  The  gardens  were  often  of  immense  extonl. 
and  great  beauty,  and  the  groves  of  those  of  the  Mit\y 
and  Owari  yashikis  are  prominent  landmarks. 

Though  the  long  lines  of  the  nagoya  of  these  feudai 
mansions  are  still  characteristic  of  the  region  within 
the  inner  moat,  the  yashikis  are  fast  disappearing.  The 
Yamato  and  Kaga  yashikis  have  been  removed,  and 
their  sites  are  covered  with  the  bungalows  of  foreigners 
in  Japanese  service.  Some  have  been  burned,  and  the 
nagoya  of  others  have  been  turned  into  shops,  but  it  is 
to  be  hoped  tliat  the  Government  will  defer  to  the 
desire  expressed  by  foreigners  for  the  conservation  of 
relics  of  the  recent  past,  and  that  those  occupied  offi- 
cially will  be  kept  in  repair. 

These  great  wooden  camps,  for  they  were  nothing 
else,  go  far  to  account  for  the  immense  area  occupied 
by  this  singular  city,  for  each  yashiki  of  importance 
covers  many  acres  of  ground,  and  there  were  268 
daimiyd^  most  of  whom  possessed  three  yashikis  apiece, 
and  were  attended  to  the  capital  by  1000,  2000,  and 
even  3000  armed  retainers.  The  process  of  decay  has 
been  a rapid  one,  for  it  was  only  in  1871  that  these 

1 The  yashikis,  with  their  exterior  and  interior  arrangements,  and  the 
rigid  etiquette  which  governed  even  their  smallest  details,  have  been 
carefully  and  brilliantly  described  by  Mr.  M'Clatchie,  of  H.B.M.’s 
Consular  service,  in  a paper  called  “ The  Feudal  Mansions  of  Yedo,  ” 
published  in  the  Transactions  of  the  English  Asiatic  Society  of  Japan 
for  1879. 


180 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


princes  were  called  upon  to  retire  into  private  life, 
when  their  town  dwellings,  as  well  as  their  castles 
scattered  throughout  Japan,  became  the  property  of 
the  Government. 

Outside  the  Official  Quarter  are  the  city,  and  the 
districts  of  north,  east,  and  south  T6kiy6,  contain- 
ing Shiba  and  Uyeno,  with  their  temples,  groves, 
slirines,  avenues,  and  gardens,  and  the  gorgeous  tombs 
of  eleven  of  the  ShOguns  of  the  Tokugawa  dynasty; 
Tsukiji,  the  “Foreign  Concession,”  and  centre  of  for- 
eign Missions;  Asakusa,  with'the  great  popular  temple 
of  Kwan-non  and  its  surrounding  exliibitions  ; Oji  with 
its  temples  and  tea-houses;  Mukojima  with  its  tea- 
houses, cherry  avenues,  and  shrines;  Meguro  with  its 
rural  beauty,  its  temples,  and  cremation-ground,  and 
the  tombs  of  Gompachi  and  Kamurasaki;  Takanawa, 
famous  for  attacks  on  the  British  Legation,  and  for  the 
tombs  of  the  “ Forty-seven  ronins,”  and  Shinagawa,  of 
evil  fame,  the  suburb  which  lies  nearest  to  Yokohama, 
are  all  names  which  have  become  familiar  from  the 
reports  of  travellers  and  Mr.  Mitford’s  Tales  of  Old 
Japan. 

Of  all  T6kiy5,  the  city  proper  is  the  most  densely 
populated  district,  and  not  the  least  interesting,  as  it  is 
thoroughly  Japanese,  and  few  traces  of  foreign  influ- 
ence are  to  be  seen.  The  Nipponbaslii,  or  Bridge  of 
Japan,  is  there,  the  geographical  centre  of  the  Empire, 
from  which  all  distances  are  measured ; the  main  street 
and  numerous  canals  run  through  it,  and  every  part  of 
it  is  occupied  with  shops,  storehouses,  fireproof  ware- 
houses, and  places  of  wholesale  business,  and  their  deep, 
heavily-tiled  roofs  almost  redeem  it  from  insignificance. 
The  canals  are  jammed  with  neatly-roofed  boats  piled 
with  produce,  and  on  the  roadways,  loaded  pack-horses, 
coolies,  and  man-carts  with  their  shouting  and  strug- 


THE  CANALS. 


181 


gling  teams,  leave  barely  room  for  the  siglit-seer.  No 
streets  of  Liverpool  or  New  York  present  more  com- 
mercial activity.  No  time  is  lost,  — Presto''  is  the 
motto,  — and  loading,  unloading,  pacldng,  unpacking, 
and  warehousing,  are  carried  on  during  daylight  with 
much  rapidity  and  noise.  One  would  think  that  all  the 
rice  of  Japan  had  accumulated  in  the  storehouses  which 
line  the  canals,  as  well  as  the  energy,  bustle,  and  busi- 
nesc  of  tlie  Empire. 

The  canals,  which  form,  as  at  Niigata,  a convenient 
network  of  communication,  are  water-streets  as  well  as 
waterways,  and  are  always  thronged  with  loaded  boats, 
and  at  certain  times  with  pleasure-boats,  and  nocturnal 
boat  processions  illuminated  with  paper  lanterns.  The 
tide  runs  through  them  and  keeps  them  sweet,  but  at 
low-water  they  look  dirty  and  dismal,  with  their  ragged 
fringe  of  sheds,  and  boats  lying  on  the  slime  in  which 
hundreds  of  children  wallow  with  amphibious  satisfac- 
tion. So  many  moats  and  canals  involve  a large  num- 
ber of  bridges,  but  few  of  these  are  of  stone.  Yaetai- 
bashi,  one  of  the  longest,  has  twenty-four  spans  of 
thirty  feet  each.  T6kiy0,  in  few  things  “behind  the 
age,’*  possesses  waterAVorks,  and  the  supply  is  brought 
from  a distance  of  nine  miles  in  curious,  square,  wooden 
pipes,  the  mains  from  one  to  two  feet  square,  and  the 
distribution  pipes  four  inches  square ; but  there  are  no 
filtering  beds,  and  the  water  is  more  abundant  than 
absolutely  pure. 

The  Japanese  are  the  most  irreligious  people  that  I 
have  ever  seen — their  pilgrimages  are  picnics,  and  their 
religious  festivals  fairs;  but  a pious  spirit  must  have 
existed  once  at  T6kiy6,  for  an  immense  quantity  of 
ground  is  taken  up  not  only  with  temples,  colleges  for 
priests,  pagodas  and  shrines,  but  with  the  grounds  be- 
longing to  them,  as  at  Shiba,  Asakusa,  and  Uyeno.  It 


182 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


is  said  that,  including  the  shrines  to  Inari  Sama,  the 
patron  of  agriculture,  there  are  over  3000  buildings  in 
the  capital  dedicated  to  ShintO  and  Buddhist  divinities, 
and  the  Buddhists  are  still  erecting  temples  on  a grand 
scale.  Asakusa  has  already  been  described,  and  the 
shrines  of  the  ShOguns  in  Shiba  vary  so  little  in  their 
main  features  from  those  of  NikkO  that  it  is  needless  to 
write  of'  them,  specially  as  nothing  but  the  most  de- 
tailed and  technical  description  could  give  the  reader 
any  idea  of  their  peculiar  beauty,  which  is  ever  sug- 
gesting the  regret  that  the  work  of  the  artist  should  be 
in  a material  so  perishable  as  wood.  The  immense 
groves  of  the  temples  of  Shiba  and  Uyeno  have  been 
turned  into  public  parks,  whose  broad  carriage-roads 
and  shady  avenues  vie  with  those  of  any  parks  in 
Europe.  Besides  groups  and  streets  of  temples,  tliere 
are  temples  stowed  away  in  unlikely,  crowded,  or  ob- 
scure localities,  and  some  of  these  are  great  resorts  of 
the  populace,  such  as  a small  shrine  in  the  narrow  busi- 
ness street  called  Shimmei-mai,  the  walls  and  court  of 
which  are  nearly  concealed  by  ex  votos  offered  by  suffer- 
ers from  toothache,  who  believe  themselves  to  have 
been  healed  by  the  god  to  whom  it  is  dedicated.  Other 
small  temples  are  resorted  to  by  childless  wives,  and 
the  altars  of  one  divinity,  who  is  supposed  to  secure 
the  faithfulness  of  husbands,  are  always  thronged  with 
suppliants,  of  whose  earnestness  there  can  be  no  doubt. 

The  streets  of  the  capital  number  1400,  very  few  re- 
taining the  same  name  along  their  entire  length.  They 
are  of  unpainted  wood,  and  no  description  can  give  an 
idea  of  their  monotonous  meanness.  Except  that  they 
are  the  scenes  of  a bustle  which  exists  nowhere  else  in 
Japan  but  in  Osaka,  the  lines  of  the  T6kiy5  shops  differ 
in  few  respects  from  those  of  Niigata,  described  in 
Letter  XXI. ; it  is  emphatically  a city  of  shopkeepers, 


ENTRANCE  TO  SHRINE  OF  SEVENTH  SHOOUN,  SH 


184 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


and  great  numbers  of  its  streets  have  the  short,  shop 
curtains  hanging  along  their  entire  length.  Most  of 
them,  as  elsewhere,  are  of  small  dimensions,  resembling 
dolls’  houses  as  much  by  their  size  as  by  the  smallness 
and  exquisite  neatness  of  their  wares.  Unless  accom- 
panied by  a Japanese  or  an  intelligent  foreign  resident, 
it  is  impossible  even  to  guess  at  the  uses  of  half  the 
things  which  are  exposed  for  sale,  and  pilgrimages 
among  the  shops  are  by  no  means  an  insignificant  aid 
to  learning  something  of  the  requirements  and  mode  of 
living  of  the  people,  though  it  is  at  T6kiy6  more  than 
anywhere  else  that  one  feels  how  much  there  is  to  learn, 
and  how  comparatively  little  could  be  learned,  even  by 
the  assiduous  application  of  many  years.  A great 
number  of  the  articles  sold  are  actually  made  at 
T6kiy6,  and,  as  befits  a capital,  it  is  a grand  emporium 
for  the  productions  of  the  whole  Empire. 

The  street  signs  do  little  to  relieve  the  monotony  of 
the  low,  grey  houses,  nor  do  the  shops  (except  the  toy- 
shops which  are  gorgeous)  make  much  show,  with  their 
low  fronts  half-concealed  by  curtains.  Confectioners 
usually  display  a spiked  white  ball  a foot  and  a half 
in  diameter ; saA:^-dealers  a cluster  of  cypress  trimmed 
into  a sphere ; the  sellers  of  the  crimson  pigment  with 
which  women  varnish  their  lips  a red  flag ; goldbeaters 
a great  pair  of  square  spectacles,  with  gold  instead  of 
glass ; druggists  and  herbalists  a big  bag  resembling  in 
shape  the  small  ones  used  in  making  their  infusions ; 
kite-makers  a cuttle-fish ; sellers  of  cut  flowers  a small 
willow  tree  ; dealers  in  dried  and  salt  fish,  etc.,  two  fish, 
coloured  red,  and  tied  together  by  the  gills  with  straw, 
indicating  that  they  can  supply  the  gifts  which  it  is 
usual  to  make  to  betrothed  persons ; but  the  Brobdig- 
nagian  signs  in  black,  red,  and  gold,  which  light  up  the 
streets  of  Canton,  are  too  “ loud  ” and  explicit  for 


STBEET  NAMES, 


185 


Japanese  taste,  which  prefers  the  simple  and  symboli- 
cal. 

Many  of  the  streets  remain  exclusively  Japanese, 
and  their  shops  sell  nothing  but  Japanese  goods ; but 
others  have  been  westernised,  and  are  simply  repulsive- 
looking,  as,  to  my  thinking,  are  most  of  the  other  Eu- 
ropean innovations.  It  may  be  said,  once  for  all,  that 
there  is  not  a fine  street  in  T6kiy6,  though  some  in 
which  the  roofs  are  deep  and  heavily  tiled  are  slightly 
picturesque.  On  tlie  whole  they  are  flimsy,  unpictur- 
esque,  and  perishable,  and  singularly  unimpressive  ex- 
cept from  the  crowds  which  frequent  them.  There  arc 
no  side-walks,  but  the  roadways  are  so  beautifully  clean 
that  they  are  not  missed.  External  cleanliness  is  a 
characteristic  of  the  city.  The  sewage  is  carried  out 
for  the  fertilisation  of  the  neighbouring  country  by  men 
and  horses  in  neat,  covered  pails,  and,  as  a whole,  the 
city  is  remarkably  sweet,  though  it  must  be  confessed 
that  sundry  black  ditches  give  off,  in  hot  weather, 
odours  which  suggest  “drain  fever.”  Public  bath- 
houses abound. 

The  theatres  are  mainly  confined  to  Saruwaka  Street, 
and  most  dissipations  and  amusements  have  their  re- 
spective localities. 

The  street  names  are  a study  in  themselves,^  and  are 
very  numerous,  as  a single  street  sometimes  receives  as 
many  as  twenty  for  twenty  parts  of  its  length.  Japan 
has  no  Aboukirs,  Agincourts,  or  Almas  to  commemo- 
rate. Owing  to  her  insular  position,  her  wars,  such  as 
they  have  been,  have  been  mainly  internecine,  and  it 
has  not  been  the  custom  to  perpetuate  by  street  names 
either  the  heroes  or  victories  of  civil  strife.  A few,  in- 

1 Mr.  Griffis,  author  of  the  Mikado's  Empire,  contributed  a very  in- 
teresting paper  upon  this  subject  to  the  Transactions  of  the  English 
AuSiatic  Society  of  Japan. 


186 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN 


deed,  are  called  after  the  soldier-emperor  Hachiman ; 
some  are  named  after  famous  wrestlers,  priests,  or  nuns ; 
the  great  theatre  street  after  Saruwaka,  the  founder  of 
the  modern  Japanese  theatre;  and  one  after  Kinda 
Miyamoto,  an  ancient  fencing-master  who  murdered  his 
father,  and  is  the  hero  of  many  fictitious  tales  of  re- 
venge. The  popular  deities,  and  the  dragon,  the  favour- 
ite mythical  monster,  play  a very  insignificant  part  in 
street  nomenclature. 

Of  the  1400  streets  of  TokiyO,  about  two-thirds  de- 
rive their  names  from  natural  objects,  another  proof  of 
the  love  of  nature  which  is  so  strong  among  the  Japan- 
ese. There  is  a Matsu  or  Pine  Street  in  nearly  every 
one  of  the  ninety-six  subdivisions  of  the  city.  Scores 
of  streets  are  named  after  the  willow  and  bamboo, 
and  a number  after  the  cedar,  peony,  rush,  rice-plant, 
wormwood,  holl}",  and  chrysanthemum.  Among  the 
more  fanciful  names  are  Plum  Orchard,  Pure  Water, 
Sun  Shade,  Morning  Sun,  Flowing  River,  Mountain 
Breeze,  and  New  Blossom;  and  beasts  and  birds  are 
not  forgotten,  for  there  are  Badger,  Tortoise,  Monkey, 
Stork,  Bear,  and  Pheasant  Streets  re-duplicated,  and 
twenty  streets  are  called  after  that  unworthy  brute  the 
Japanese  horse,  Pack  Horse  Relay  Street  being  the  old- 
est in  Tokiyo.  Invention  languishes  there  as  with  us. 
There  are  more  than  twenty  timber  streets ; and  the 
names  of  trades  are  frequently  repeated,  such  as  Car- 
penter, Blacksmith,  Dyer,  Sawyer,  Farmer,  Coolie, 
and  Cooper.  A farther  descent  is  to  File,  Kettle,  Pot, 
and  Table.  Many  are  named  from  Salt,  Wheat,  Indigo, 
Charcoal,  Hair,  Leather,  Pen,  Mat,  and  Fan,  and  there 
are  Net,  and  Fresh,  Roasted,  and  Salt  Fish  Streets.  A 
few  are  called  after  such  obsolete  military  weapons  as 
are  only  to  be  found  in  the  Museum,  others  are  named 
Abounding  Gladness,  Same  Friend,  Conjugal  Love, 
Congratulation,  and  Peace. 


STEEET  NAMES. 


187 


Tlie  Restoration,  whicli  has  changed  so  much,  has  not 
l»ecn  without  its  effect  on  street  nomenclature,  for  since 
Yedo  became  T6kiy5,  and  the  ShOgunate  fell,  about  a 
sixth  of  the  street  names,  which  were  associated  with 
the  power  of  tlie  usurping  vassal,  were  altered,  but 
many  of  the  former  survive  in  popular  usage. 

The  puzzling  repetition  of  the  same  names  arises  from 
the  fact,  to  which  allusion  has  previously  been  made, 
that  the  capital  is  an  aggregation  of  125  villages  more 
or  less  distant  from  each  other.  A letter  has  to  be  ad- 
dressed not  only  with  the  name  of  the  person  to  whom 
it  is  sent,  and  his  street  and  number,  but  with  that  of 
the  ward  of  the  city,  and  of  the  ancient  village,  to 
which  latter  name  the  people  are  tenaciously  attached. 
No  city  is  better  supplied  with  materials  for  a census, 
for  over  each  doorway  there  is  a slip  of  wood  inscribed 
with  tlie  name  of  the  householder,  and  the  number  and 
sexes  of  his  household,  besides  the  designation  of  the 
street  and  the  number  of  the  house,  which  compensates 
for  the  absence  of  conspicuous  boards  with  street  names 
upon  them. 


188 


UNBEATEN  TItACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


MODERN  INSTITUTIONS. 

riie  Cemeteries  — Cremation — Sharp  Criticism  — Stereotyped  Ideas 
— Modern  Constructive  Art  — The  College  of  Engineering  — 
Principal  Dyer  — The  Telegraph  Department  — The  Foreign  Res- 
idents—Forms  of  Flattei7  — The  Flower  Festa — A Memory  of 
Fuji  — Costly  Entertainments  — The  Brain  of  New  Japan. 

Two  estimable  features  in  the  Japanese  character  are 
the  respect  in  which  they  hold  their  dead,  and  the  at- 
tention which  they  pay  to  everything  which  can  render 
their  cemeteries  beautiful  and  attractive.  Though  T6- 
ki}^6  cannot  boast  of  burial-grounds  of  equal  beauty 
with  those  of  KiyOto,  its  many  cemeteries  are  all  care- 
fully kept ; and  from  the  gorgeous  shrines  of  Shiba 
and  U}^eno,  where  the  Sh6guns  “ lie  in  glory,”  down  to 
the  modest  tomb  in  which  the  ashes  of  a coolie  rest, 
there  are  no  grim  contrasts  between  death  and  life,  and 
“the  house  appointed  for  all  living”  is  neat,  orna- 
mental, and  befitting  the  position  which  its  occupant 
filled  in  life.  The  solid  granite  monuments,  often  elab- 
orate, are  always  tasteful.  They  vary  from  the  simple 
upright  obelisk  or  stone  pillar  on  a square  pedestal, 
merely  inscribed  with  the  name  of  the  deceased,  to  the 
massive  granite  base  and  carved  column  surmounted 
by  a bronze  Buddha  seated  on  a lotus  blossom,  the  fig- 
ure being  occasionally  as  much  as  eight  feet  high.  The 
square  family  mausoleums,  carefully  swept,  with  their 
rows  of  solid  pillars  on  stone  pedestals,  the  fresh  flow- 
ers in  bamboo  flower-holders  by  many  tombs,  the  ex- 


CREMATION. 


189 


quisite  neatness  of  the  narrow  streets  of  the  dead,  and 
the  number  of  visitors  always  engaged  in  reverently 
tending  the  graves,  lighting  fresh  incense  sticks,  and 
replacing  the  faded  bouquets  with  newly  gathered  ones, 
are  among  the  most  interesting  sights,  not  only  of  T6- 
kiy6,  but  of  Japan,  and  the  solidity  of  the  abodes  of 
the  dead  contrasts  curiously  with  the  perishableness  of 
the  houses  of  the  living. 

Cremation,  which  was  interdicted  by  the  Government 
some  years  ago,  is  now  again  permitted,  on  the  grounds 
that  the  Government  declines  to  interfere  with  personal 
wishes,  that  in  so  vast  a city  burial  by  interment  alone 
would,  after  a time,  produce  results  injurious  to  the 
public  health,  and  that  after  some  years  room  would 
scarcely  be  found  for  the  dead  among  the  living.  These 
reasons  were  given  me  in  writing  by  Mr.  Masakata 
Kusamoto,  the  enlightened  Governor  of  T6kiy6  Fu^  and 
are  worthy  of  careful  consideration.  Five  cremation 
grounds  exist  in  the  capital,  and  within  the  last  four 
years  the  number  of  bodies  disposed  of  by  burning  has 
annually  increased.  Corpses  can  be  burned  for  sums 
varying  from  3s.  8d.  to  20s.,  and  though  the  arrange- 
ments are  very  simple,  no  disagreeable  results  are  to  be 
observed  in  the  neighbourhoods. 

Tokiyo,  not  Yedo,  being  my  text,  its  Europeanised 
buildings  deserve  notice,  for  they  are  an  increasingly 
marked  and  very  repulsive  feature  of  the  capital,  and  in 
some  districts  are  taking  the  place  of  houses  of  J apanese 
construction.  They  present  little  variety,  and  with  a 
few  excei)tions,  of  which  the  Engineering  College  is  the 
chief,  are  models  of  ugliness  and  bad  taste.  They  look 
“ run  up  ” not  built.  They  are  garish,  staring,  glar- 
ing, angular,  white,  many-windowed,  temporary-looking, 
unsuited  to  the  climate,  offensive  to  the  eye,  suggestive 
of  the  outskirts  of  new  cities  in  America,  and  at  their 


190 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


best  and  cleanest  look  more  like  confectionery  tlian 
ought  else. 

Stereotyped  ideas  in  architecture  have  marked  the 
past  of  Japan.  The  architect  who  constructed  a mas- 
sive, sweeping  roof,  with  deep  eaves,  supported  it  on 
circular  pillars  on  a raised  platform,  and  called  it  a tem- 
ple, created  a style  of  ecclesiastical  .architecture  from 
which  no  builder  has  dared  to  swerve  for  800  j^ears.  So 
it  may  be  feared  that  the  innovator,  be  he  British  or 
American,  who  designed  the  first  of  these  tasteless, 
Europeanised  structures,  has  ploughed  a groove  so  deep 
that  no  future  projector  will  get  out  of  it,  that  even 
Mr.  Chastel  de  Boinville,  the  architect  to  the  Govern- 
ment, and  of  the  one  appropriate  and  handsome  build- 
ing which  TukiyO  possesses,  will  find  hhnself  fettered  by 
newly-created  prejudices  in  favour  of  erections  half-bar- 
rack, half-warehouse,  and  that  the  harmonious  greys, 
velvet}^-browns,  and  dull  reds  are  discarded  for  ever  by 
modern  Japan. 

]\Iy  first  impression  was  that  most  of  the  European- 
ised or  rather  Americanised  buildings  in  the  Official 
Quarter,  in  so  far  as  they  are  of  wood,  were  military  or 
police  barracks  or  cavalry  stables  ; and  the  houses  built 
of  brick,  which  are  the  residences  of  some  of  the  mmis- 
ters,  are  like  some  of  the  tasteless  villas  of  Holloway 
or  New  Barnet,  wliile  others  are  so  like  the  staring  tav- 
erns which  deform  the  approaches  to  London,  that  one 
involuntarily  looks  for  the  great  board  mth  “ Hanbuiy’s 
Entire,”  or  “Guinness’  Stout”  upon  it.  They  look 
“ got  up  ” cheaply  of  soft  brick,  and,  between  porous 
bricks  and  bad  mortar,  some  of  them  already  show  signs 
of  disintegration. 

The  wooden  houses  are  worse,  being  mainly  vicious 
and  exaggerated  copies  of  some  of  the  worst  of  the  con- 
structions in  the  European  settlements,  or  illustrations 


ARCHITECTURAL  INCONGRUITIES. 


191 


of  ideas  imported  from  Denver  or  Virginia  Cit}^.  Crack- 
ing, warping,  and  shrinking,  ill-concealed  by  a coating 
of  white  paint  or  plaster,  are  obvious  on  many  new 
buildings,  and  most,  from  the  fragile  materials  used, 
and  the  hasty  mode  of  erection,  are  already  in  want  of 
repair.  Much  money  has  been  spent  on  the  public 
l)uildings,  most  have  some  pretension  to  architecture, 
and  are  supposed  to  be  improvements  on  Japanese  con- 
struction, and  it  is  reall}^  a pity  that  the  Government, 
which  means  well,  has  not  been  better  advised.  In 
truth,  the  Anglo-American  architecture,  which  is  daily 
gaining  ground  in  T6kiyo,  and  is  being  copied  by  the 
provincial  capitals,  means  the  union  of  the  cold  and  dis- 
comfort of  Japanese  houses  with  the  ugliness  and  dis- 
comfort of  third-rate  suburban  villas  in  America.  In 
public  buildings  it  means  the  abandonment  of  the  sim- 
ple grandeur  of  tlie  massive,  curved  roof,  with  its  deep, 
picturesque  eaves,  and  carefully  moulded  corner  and 
terminal  tiles,  the  shady  verandahs,  the  carved  scrolls 
of  the  grand  entry,  the  imposing  arrangement  of  rafters, 
the  solid  and  decorated  panels,  and  the  general  combina- 
tion of  strehgtli  and  airiness,  light  and  shade,  dignity 
and  simplicity,  which  are  seen  in  perfection  in  tlie 
Gosh6  at  Kiyoto  and  in  some  of  the  yasliikis  at  T6kiy6, 
in  favour  of  buildings  which  possess  size  without  maj- 
esty, with  layers  of  white  plaster  or  paint  hiding  a badly 
put-together  framework  of  wood,  suggestive  of  the 
pastry-cook’s  art,  with  shallow  roofs,  unshaded  windows 
in  scores,  tawdry  porches,  an  absence  of  verandahs,  and 
a general  flatness  of  inexpressive  physiognomy  terrible 
to  behold,  nothing  in  the  style  of  the  tawdry  and 
ephemeral-looking  erections  affording  the  slightest  clue 
to  the  purpose  for  which  they  were  originally  built  and 
are  at  present  used.  As  examples  of  this  modern  con- 
structive art,  it  is  only  necessary  to  mention  as  among 


192 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


the  best  the  Imperial  University,  and  as  ordinary  speci- 
mens, the  buildings  which  conceal  the  present  residence 
of  the  Mikado,  and  the  police  stations  all  over  Tokiyo. 

It  is  singular  that  the  Japanese,  who  rarely  commit  a 
solecism  in  taste  in  their  national  costume,  architecture, 
or  decorative  art,  seem  to  be  perfectly  destitute  of  per- 
ception when  they  borrow  ours.  Their  tasteless,  Amer- 
icanised structures,  and  the  “ loud,”  gaudy,  “ tapestry  ” 
carpets  which  they  lay  down  on  the  floors  of  their  puh* 
lie  buildings  when  they  relinquish  their  own  beautiful 
mats,  are  instances  in  point. 

Among  the  most  noteworthy  of  the  new  and  old 
buildings  which  distingnish  T6kiy6,  and  show  the  ad- 
vance which  Japan  is  making  in  civilisation,  education, 
and  philanthropy,  are  the  Imperial  University,  the 
Medical,  Naval,  and  Military  Schools,  the  Imperial  Col- 
lege of  Engineering,  which  is  really -a  technical  univer- 
sity, the  Paper  Money  “ Mint,”  the  Normal  School  for 
girls,  endowed  by  the  Empress,  the  Military,  Naval,  and 
Kak'he  Hospitals,  the  Post  Office,  Telegraph  Office,  and 
Railway  Terminus,  besides  Government  Offices  and  De- 
partments too  numerous  to  mention. 

The  glory  and  pride  of  Japanese  educational  institu- 
tions is  the  Imperial  College  of  Engineering,  and  the 
Japanese  may  justly  be  proud  of  it,  for  it  is  not  only  the 
flnest  modern  building  in  Japan,  worthy  to  take  a hum- 
ble place  beside  the  Cam  or  Isis  — academical  in  its 
aspects,  noble  in  its  proportions,  suited  for  its  purpose, 
and  placed  in  an  elevated  and  commanding  position  — 
but,  in  the  opinion  of  many  competent  judges,  is  the 
most  complete  and  best  equipped  engineering  college  in 
the  world,  and  destined  shortly  to  make  Japan,  as  she 
ought  to  be,  entirely  independent  of  foreigners  for  the 
carrying  out  of  the  great  projects  of  improvement  on 
which  her  future  progress  depends.  To  a Japanese 


THE  ENGINEEUING  COLLEGE. 


193 


mind  this  stately  building  is  the  embodiment  and  apoth- 
eosis of  material  progress,  the  god  of  every  educated 
Japanese.  This  shrine  of  progress  consists  of  an  impos- 
ing arrangement  of  stone-faced  brick  buildings  in  a 
mixed  Tudor  style,  forming  three  sides  of  a handsome 
and  spacious  quadrangle. 

The  college  buildings  contain  a library  and  common 
liall  of  ecclesiastical  as  well  as  academical  appearance,  a 
general  lecture  hall,  class-rooms,  chemical  demonstra- 
tion rooms,  secretary’s  office.  Principal’s  and  Professors’ 
rooms,  class  anterooms,  general  drawing-office,  engineer- 
ing drawing-office,  surveying  drawing-office,  boiler- 
house,  mining  lecture  and  demonstration  rooms,  archi- 
tectural drawing-office,  printing-office,  natural  philoso- 
phy instrument  room,  natural  philosophy  laboratories 
and  demonstration  rooms,  museum,  dormitories,  kitch- 
ens, chemical  laboratory,  engineering  laboratory,  metal- 
lurgical laboratory.  Professors’  houses,  telegraph  and 
mineralogical  museums,  and  two  or  three  other  minor 
departments. 

No  expense  has  been  or  is  spared  upon  the  equip- 
ments of  this  magnificent  college.  Whatever  other  in- 
stitutions are  starved,  it  gets  whatever  Principal  Dyer 
chooses  to  ask.  Its  museum,  illustrative  of  civil  and 
mechanical  engineering,  is  a superb  one,  and  it  is  said 
that  no  similar  school  in  the  world  possesses  a collection 
of  models  at  once  so  accurate  in  their  construction,  or 
so  valuable  for  teaching  purposes.  The  Telegraph  and 
Mineralogical  Museums  are  equally  carefully  arranged, 
and  not  only  do  concise  and  admirable  catalogues  ac- 
company each  museum,  but  descriptions  are  given  witli 
each  model  and  instrument,  which  convey  the  leading 
idea  of  its  construction  and  utility  in  tlie  smallest  pos- 
sible space.  To  the  non-scientific  visitor  the  museum 
of  Japanese  products,  manufacturers,  and  models  of 


194 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


Japanese  machinery,  though  hy  no  means  as  complete 
as  it  ought  to  be  and  will  be,  is  the  most  interesting  of 
all,  and  year  by  j^ear,  as  the  old  style  of  things  disap- 
pears, will  gain  in  value,  and  in  time  may  come  to  be 
the  only  place  in  which  the  Japanese  of  the  future  can 
study  the  former  industries  of  his  country,  and  the 
simple  methods  by  which  great  results  were  obtained. 

This  college  is  under  the  ministry  of  Public  Works. 
Principal  Dyer,  who  has  made  it  what  it  is,  is  intensely 
a Scotchman,  and  not  only  very  able  in  his  own  profes- 
sion, but  a man  of  singular  force,  energy,  and  power  of 
concentration,  with  a resolute  and  indomitable  will. 
He  is  felt  in  the  details  of  every  department  of  the 
College,  and  combines  practical  sagacity  with  a large 
amount  of  well-directed  enthusiasm.  It  is  said  that  of 
the  foreign  teachers  in  Japanese  employment  he  is  the 
one  whose  resolute  independence  and  determination  to 
carry  out  his  own  plans  in  his  own  way  have  been  re- 
spected by  the  Government,  and  I venture  to  predict 
that  he  will  be  the  last  one  whose  services  will  be  dis- 
pensed with.  His  highly-efficient  teaching  staff  con- 
sists of  nine  English  professors,  with  several  qualified 
Japanese  assistants,  all  working  energetically;  and 
among  the  former  have  been  and  are  several  men  who 
have  thrown  themselves  heartily  into  different  depart- 
ments of  Japanese  study.  The  discipline  and  tone  of 
the  College  leave  little  to  be  desired.  A fine  spirit 
pervades  the  students,  and  it  seems  tliat  the  only  com- 
plaint made  by  their  teachers  is  that  it  is  difficult  to 
make  them  understand  the  necessity  for  recreation. 

Classes  are  held  in  English  language  and  literature, 
technical  drawing,  mathematics,  natural  philosophy, 
chemistry,  engineering,  telegraphic  engineering,  me- 
chanical engineering,  architecture,  mineralogy,  geology, 
mining,  and  metallurgy,  with  branches  under  several 


THE  MUSEUMS. 


195 


of  these  heads.  The  course  lasts  six  years,  and  a con- 
siderable part  of  it  is  occupied  with  practical  instruc- 
tion at  the  well-equipped  works  at  Akabani^,  the  largest 
mechanical  engineering  establishment  in  Japan,  where 
all  sorts  of  engines  and  mechanical  appliances  are 
turned  out.  The  enlightened  system  of  education 
which  is  pursued  is  supplemented  by  a very  valuable 
and  always  increasing  library,  containing  over  13,000 
volumes,  mostly  on  technical  subjects,  and  by  a reading- 
room  liberally  supplied  with  periodicals. 

The  question  arises.  What  is  to  be  done  with  the  fifty 
“masters  in  engineering”  who  hereafter  will  be  turned 
out  annually  by  what  is  usually  termed  by  foreigners 
“ Mr.  Dyer’s  college,”  and  how  is  work  to  be  provided 
for  them  in  a country  which  has  overspent  itself,  and  is 
obliged  to  economise  ? Japan  cherishes  visions  of  costly 
engineering  undertakings  of  all  kinds,  but  these  are  ex- 
pensive, and  in  her  present  temper  she  intends  not  only 
not  to  contract  any  new  debts,  but  to  pay  off  the  old. 
Mr.  Dyer  would  reply  that  his  business  is  to  turn  out 
competent  engineers,  and  not  to  forecast  their  future, 
and  I pass  from  the  subject  in  the  hope  of  an  era  of 
remunerative  improvements. 

IMuseums  are  worthily  occupying  the  attention  of  the 
Government.  The  Kaitahuslii  Department  has  a collec- 
tion of  objects  imperfectly  illustrating  the  industries 
and  mode  of  living  of  the  Ainos  in  its  museum  in 
Shiba,  and  the  National  Museum  contains  objects  of 
variety  and  beauty  the  like  of  which  are  not  to  be 
found  anywhere  else,  and  which,  had  they  not  been  pur- 
chased by  the  nation,  would  have  passed  into  the  hands 
of  foreign  connoisseurs.  Many  of  the  creations  of  an- 
cient art  which  are  arranged  in  Uyeno  are  unique  and 
priceless,  and  the  authorities  deserve  great  credit  for 
the  extent,  value,  and  arrangement  of  this  museum. 


196  UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 

The  last  building  which  I notice  is  the  Telegraph 
Building,  opened  in  March  1878,  under  the  auspices  of 
Mr.  Gilbert,  the  chief  superintendent.  The  whole  tele- 
graph system  of  Japan  is  noAv  worked  by  native  officials, 
foreigners  having  been  dispensed  with  in  the  summer 
of  last  year.  This  building,  though  in  the  vicious  Euro- 
peanised style,  is  well  arranged  for  its  objects,  its  lower 
floor  being  occupied  by  reception-rooms,  offices,  and  a 
broad  counter  for  messages,  and  nearly  the  whole  of 
the  upper  by  an  operating-room,  to  which  the  messages 
are  conveyed  in  a lift.  The  Morse  instruments,  includ- 
ing “ sounders,”  are  used  for  ordinary  messages,  and  on 
short  local  lines  Wheatstone’s  alphabetical  instruments, 
specially  arranged  for  recording  the  Roman  alphabet  and 
Japanese  syllabary.  Part  of  this  room  is  taken  up  by 
a test-box  and  a test-board,  which  accommodates  eighty 
circuits,  into  which  the  wires  from  all  Japan  are  led, 
and  another  part  by  a time-transmitter  and  regulator 
clock,  whereby  the  telegraphic  time  all  over  Japan  is 
adjusted  daily.  In  another  room  batteries  with  a thou- 
sand cells  are  kept  upon  tables.  A telephone  connected 
with  the  Engineering  College  for  experimental  pimposes 
is  the  latest  instance  of  the  eagerness  with  which  the 
Japanese  are  appropriating  foreign  inventions.  The 
jMorse  instruments,  test-box,  time-transmitter,  and  every- 
thing for  out  and  indoor  use,  except  wire,  are  made  by 
Japanese  in  the  workshops  of  the  Telegraph  Depart- 
ment, and  the  instruments,  for  delicacy  of  finish  and 
accuracy,  are  said  to  bear  comparison  with  any  whidi 
are  manufactured  in  Europe.  The  manipulators  there 
and  elsewhere  are  Japanese,  and  they  have  proved  such 
apt  scholars  that  they  manage  their  telegraph  system 
with  a carefulness  and  accuracy  which  allow  of  no  hos- 
tile criticism. 

In  truth,  T6kiy6  is  a wonderful  city  of  enterprise 


FOREIGN  RESIDENTS. 


197 


and  bustle,  the  focus  of  the  new  order  of  things,  not 
only  the  seat  of  a Government  of  singular  capacity  and 
activity,  but  the  headquarters  of  an  education  which 
is  revolutionising  Japan.  Doctors,  schoolmasters,  and 
engineers  are  being  dispersed  from  it  over  the  Empire, 
who  not  only  carry  with  them  a new  education,  medi- 
cine, and  science,  but  new  ideas  of  government,  phil- 
osophy, and  the  position  of  women,  as  well  as  the 
pushing,  progressive,  Tokiy6  spirit  of  unmitigated  ma- 
terialism. It  must  be  observed  that  the  education  and 
stimulation  of  the  brain  are  carried  on  with  little  refer- 
ence to  man’s  moral  nature,  and  that  distortion  of  one 
part  of  his  being  and  dwarfing  of  another  must  be  the 
sure  result.  In  addition,  the  indirect,  and  in  some 
cases  the  direct,  influence  of  some  of  the  foreign 
teachers  has  been  against  Christianity,  and  in  favour 
of  materialism.  The  new  education  lays  “ the  axe  to 
the  root  of  the  tree  ” of  the  old  cultus  and  beliefs,  sub- 
stituting nothing.  Probably  there  is  scarcely  an  atheism 
so  blank,  or  a materialism  so  complete,  on  earth  as  that 
of  the  educated  modern  Japanese. 

Of  the  foreigners  in  Japanese  Government  employ- 
ment the  greater  number  are  in  T6kiy6.  They  are 
allowed  to  live  anywhere  outside  the  dreary  limits  of 
Tsukiji,  and  they  form  a society  among  themselves,  mix- 
ing but  little  with  the  colony  of  missionaries  in  the 
Concession.  Their  number  decreases,  for  the  Govern- 
ment parts  with  them  as  soon  as  it  thinks  that  Japanese 
can  fill  their  places,  and  the  constant  changes  among 
them  are  unfavourable  to  the  pleasantest  kind  of  social 
intercourse.  The  most  recent  clearance  has  been  at  the 
Naval  College,  where  only  two  of  the  English  staff,  and 
those  not  in  the  College  proper,  have  been  retained. 
Many  of  them  apply  themselves  with  praiseworthy 
assiduity  to  the  study  of  the  Japanese  language,  and  of 


198 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


special  subjects  connected  with  Japan,  and  their  dili- 
gence bears  good  fruit  in  papers  of  great  and  perma- 
nent interest  contributed  by  them  to  the  English  and 
German  Asiatic  Societies,  both  of  which  hold  regular 
meetings  in  TokiyO.  Those  who  merel}^  teach,  and  hold 
a.uof  from  Japanese  interests,  must  have  rather  a “dull 
time,”  and  the  ladies,  very  few  of  whom  interest  them- 
selves in  anything  Japanese  except  curios,  must  be 
duller  still. 

The  capital,  as  one  of  the  three  imperial  cities  or  Fu., 
has  a local  jurisdiction,  and  a governor,  assisted  by  a 
large  staff.  The  present  Governor,  Masakata  Kusu- 
moto,  is  the  one  who  cleansed  and  renovated  Niigata, 
and  under  his  vigorous  administration  order  and  clean- 
liness reign  in  T6kiy6,  though  the  number  of  robberies 
on  winter  nights  retains  formidable  proportions  in  spite 
of  nearly  6000  policemen.  There  are  no  beggars,  and 
there  is  no  quarter  given  up  to  poverty  and  squalor,  or 
poverty  and  squalor  in  combination  with  crime,  and  fes- 
tering centres  of  misery  of  any  kind  are  not  to  be 
found.  Vice,  though  legalised,  is  prohibited  from  dis- 
playing its  seductions  in  the  ordinary  streets,  the  resorts 
of  the  dissolute  being  confined  to  special  quarters  of 
the  city. 

Over  10,000  cavalr}^,  infantry,  and  artillery  are  quar- 
tered in  T6kiy6,  but  these  are  more  likely  to  prove  a 
source  of  difficulty  than  of  strength.  Large  numbers 
are  recruited  from  the  heimin  or  lowest  class,  and  the 
uncouthness  of  their  bucolic  faces  contrasts  with  the 
intelligence  of  those  of  the  policemen,  who  are  mostly 
samurai.  On  days  when  large  numbers  of  them  get 
leave,  they  are  to  be  seen  staggering  about  the  streets 
in  a state  of  intoxication,  creating  a disorder  which  is 
as  rare  in  T6kiy6  as  in  anj^  other  Japanese  city. 

The  paucity  of  horse  vehicles,  where  horses  are 


FORMS  OF  FLATTERY. 


199 


abundant  and  roads  are  excellent,  is  a curious  fact.  Tn 
the  Official  Quarter  a few  carriages  are  to  be  seen,  and 
on  one  street  clumsy  vans,  drawn  by  contemptible 
ponies,  run  as  omnibuses,  but  elsewhere  one  may  walk 
about  week  after  week  without  seeing  anything  but 
Jcurumas  or  man-carts  and  coolies,  and  coolies  and  pack- 
horses  are  used  for  the  transport  of  all  goods  whicli 
cannot  be  conveyed  by  canal.  It  is  not  unusual  to  see 
100  men  carrying  a log  of  felled  and  squared  timber,  or 
a stone  of  enormous  size.  There  are  over  23,000  huru- 
mas ; their  number  is  rapidly  increasing,  and  they  are 
used  by  everybody  as  the  handiest  means  of  abbreviat- 
ing the  “ magnificent  distances  ” of  the  city. 

TokiyO  is  the  centre  of  the  publishing  trade,  and 
nearl}"  every  trade  and  manufacture  in  Japan  is  more 
or  less  represented  there.  I will  notice  but  one.  In 
several  passages  in  the  previous  letters  melancholy 
allusions  have  been  made  to  certain  imitations,  which, 
though  they  may  be  “the  sincerest  form  of  flattery,” 
are  also  the  most  impertinent  form  of  swindling.  Of 
the  manufacture  of  forged  labels  and  imitative  com- 
pounds of  the  most  nauseous  or  unwholesome  descrip- 
tion Tdkiyd  is  the  centre,  and  it  has  reduced  systematic 
forger}^  to  a trade.  Nor  is  this  iniquity  confined  to 
back  slums  and  holes  and  corners,  but  it  is  carried  on 
in  the  face  of  day  at  unscreened  windows,  where  presses 
may  be  seen  at  work  imitating  the  English  Government 
Inland  Revenue  stamp.  Dr.  Collis  Browne’s  signature, 
or  the  attractive  label  of  “ Preston’s  Sugar  of  Lemons,” 
or  the  tempting  cover  of  the  “ Ramornie  ” meat  tins,  llic 
“ Eagle  Brand,”  Bass’s  “ Red  Diamond  ” label,  etc.,  for- 
tunately not  always  with  that  strict  attention  to  Eng- 
lish orthography  which  would  render  the  deception 
complete.  It  is  complete  enough,  however,  for  the 
unfortunate  Japanese  victims,  and  from  Nagasaki  to 


200 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


Hakodate  spurious  eatables,  drinkables,  and  medicines 
are  sold,  dealing  sickness  with  a liberal  hand,  intro- 
ducing delirium  tremens  and  other  woes  where  they 
were  previously  unknown,  and  turning  innocent  into 
“ deadly  things.”  I write  feelingly,  as  a sufferer  from  an 
evil  compound,  supposed  to  consist  of  soap,  vitriol,  oil 
of  lemons,  and  sugar,  sold  for  that  best  of  all  refreshing 
drinks,  “Preston’s  Sugar  of  Lemons.”  Elsewhere,  a 
perfumer,  who  aspires  to  be  the  Rimmel  of  Japan,  bot- 
tles aggressively  nauseous  odours  in  Rimmel’s  and  Fa- 
rina’s bottles,  adroitly  imitating  even  the  seal  or  capsule, 
and  “ Pears’  Soap  ” appears  as  a scarifying  compound, 
admirable  possibly  as  “ a counter-irritant.”  Again,  men 
may  be  seen  industriously  filling  Bass’s  bottles  from 
casks  of  native  beer,  and  Guinness’s  with  the  same  beer 
coloured  with  liquorice  and  refuse  treacle.  Are  we  to 
class  these  forgeries  as  among  the  signs  of  manufactur- 
ing progress  in  Japan? 

T6kiy6  is  a stronghold  of  amusement  and  pleasure, 
as  well  as  of  politics,  education,  and  business,  but  its 
theatres,  geishas.,  wrestlers,  jugglers,  and  other  diver- 
sions have  been  so  minutely  described  by  other  writers, 
that  I gladly  let  them  alone  in  favour  of  the  Flower 
festa  of  the  different  seasons,  which  are  among  the  most 
attractive  sights  of  the  capital.  The  well-tended  gar- 
dens of  the  suburbs,  with  their  stiffly-clipped  hedges, 
the  back  plots  a few  feet  square,  with  their  gardens  in 
miniature,  even  in  the  most  crowded  streets,  or  perhaps 
pots  alone,  with  flowering  plants,  as  regularly  changed 
in  their  succession  as  those  in  the  balconies  of  houses 
in  Belgravia,  attest  that  love  of  the  beauties  of  nature, 
which  is  one  of  the  most  pleasing  features  of  the 
Japanese  character,  and  which  finds  its  more  sys- 
tematic gratification  in  resorting  to  special  places  where 
special  flowers  are  to  be  seen  in  their  glory.  In  Febru- 


FLORAL  CURIOSITIES. 


201 


ary,  when  the  Japanese  plum  tree,  with  its  crowded 
blossoms,  chiefly  varying  from  those  of  our  apricot  in 
size  and  variety  of  shape  and  colour,  is  in  perfection, 
crowds  go  out  to  Kamddo  and  Omurai  on  the  river,  and 
to  Tabata  — places  distinguished  for  the  number  and 
beauty  of  these  trees.  This  is  only  a foretaste  of  the 
festival  in  April,  when  Japan  is  at  its  best,  and  the  win- 
ter, especially  dreaded  by  the  Japanese,  is  forgotten,  and 
the  different  varieties  of  the  cherry,  the  pride  of  the 
flowering  trees,  are  in  their  beauty.  Then  all  Tdkiyo, 
in  holiday  costume,  flocks  to  the  hill  plateau  of  Aska- 
yama,  to  Odsi,  and  especially  to  Uyeno,  which  has  the 
aspect  of  a fair  for  two  or  three  weeks.  Numbers  of 
temporary  tea-houses  are  constructed  of  bamboo,  and 
are  decorated  with  flags  and  lanterns,  and  dainties,  toys, 
and  confectionery  are  everywhere  sold,  girls  and  chil- 
dren sing  and  dance ; but  the  beauty  of  the  cherry  blos- 
soms is  the  soul  of  the  festival,  and  all  day  long  crowds 
of  all  ages  throng  the  park,  luxuriating  with  genuine 
enjoyment  in  the  delight  of  the  cherry  viewing,”  and 
sipping  tea  and  cherry-blossom  water. 

In  June  the  wistaria  festival  is  held,  and  thousands 
of  people  visit  Kamddo,  where  bowers  of  this  trailer, 
with  pendent  clusters  of  blossoms,  surround  a piece  of 
water,  and  amidst  feasting,  singing,  and  music,  verses 
in  praise  of  its  beauty  are  written  on  slips  of  paper  and 
are  hung  upon  the  boughs.  The  “ iris  viewing  ” shortly 
follows,  when  the  ponds  and  flower-beds  of  Hari  Kiri 
are  glorious  with  irises  of  the  loveliest  colours,  and 
again  pleasime-loving  Tokiyd  creates  a vast  picnic,  and 
crowds  the  garden  suburb  of  Mukojima  by  the  river ; 
and  boats,  gay  with  flags  in  the  daytime,  and  with  lan- 
terns at  night,  tln*ong  the  broad  stream,  and  the  river- 
side roads  are  cheery  with  groups  bound  to  the  bowers 
and  tea-houses  of  the  iris  gardens.  The  “Festival  of 


202 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


the  Chrysanthemums  ” in  October,  one  of  the  five  great 
national  festivals  of  Japan,  has  several  centres,  and  the 
imperial  flower  is  nowhere  seen  in  greater  perfection 
than  in  Tokiyo. 

Perpetual  floral  attractions  of  a very  curious  kind 
are  offered  by  the  “art  gardeners”  of  Sugamo  and 
Somei,  pleasant  suburbs,  and  in  Dango  Saka,  where  tlie 
tea-house  grounds  and  gardens  are  always  crowded  with 
holiday-making  guests.  Except  in  the  gardens  of  the 
Buddhist  monastery  of  Hang-tse  in  China,  I have  never 
seen  anything  approaching  in  singularity  to  these  pro- 
ductions, but  the  gardeners  of  TokiyS  are  far  more  dar- 
ing than  the  monks.  Bushes  and  shrubs  cut  into  the 
life-size  resemblances  of  men  and  women,  are  equipped 
with  faces  of  painted  wood  or  paper,  the  clothes,  fans, 
or  weapons  being  formed  of  carefully  trained  leaves  and 
flowers,  which  fall  in  artistic  draperies  of  delightfully 
harmonised  colours.  In  one  scene  a tree  represents  a 
monster  fan,  two  others  a bridge  with  a ship  passing 
underneath  it,  then  a landscape  with  a picnic  and  a set- 
ting sun  of  gold-coloured  chrysanthemums  is  wonder- 
fully executed.  Chinese  women  walking,  and  animals, 
specially  hares  and  rabbits,  are  also  represented  by  this 
singular  art.  Scenes  from  well-known  plays  are  the 
most  enduringly  popular  of  all  these  scenes,  and  one  of 
the  mythic  heroes  of  Japan,  shown  in  combat  with  an 
eight-headed  monster,  while  the  lady  for  whom  he  is 
fighting  sits  apart,  clothed  in  red,  yellow,  and  white 
chrysanthemums,  the  whole  forming  a landscape  over 
thirty  feet  long,  is  always  the  centre  of  joyous  crowds 
in  late  October,  when  the  sun  is  warm  and  the  air  is 
still. 

It  would  be  treachery  to  many  delicious  memories 
were  I to  omit  to  say  that  Fuji,  either  as  a cone  of 
dazzling  snow,  or  rosy  in  the  autumn  sunrise,  or  as  a 


COSTLY  ENTEBTAINMENTS. 


203 


lofty  spiritual  presence  far  off  in  a veil  of  mist,  or  pur- 
ple against  the  sunset  gold,  is  one  of  the  great  sights  of 
TokiyO.  Even  of  Shiba,  that  dream  of  beauty,  among 
whose  groves  the  city  hum  is  unheard,  one  might  weary, 
but  of  Fuji  never,  and  as  time  goes  on,  he  becomes  an 
infatuating  personality,  which  raises  one  above  the  mo- 
notonous clatter  and  the  sordid  din  of  mere  material 
progress.  One  vision  of  Fuji  I shall  never  forget. 
After  spending  an  afternoon  alone  among  the  crowds 
which  throng  the  great  temple  of  Kwan-non  at  Asakusa, 
as  I turned  a corner  at  dusk  to  go  down  a hill,  my 
kuruma-vunBQv  looked  round  and  said,  “ Fuji ! ” and  I 
saw  a glory  such  as  I had  not  seen  before  in  Japan. 
The  heavens  behind  and  overhead  were  dark  and  cov- 
ered with  clouds,  but  in  front  there  was  a cl^ar  sky  of 
pure,  pale  green,  into  which  the  huge  cone  of  Fuji  rose 
as  a mass  of  ruddy  purple,  sublime,  colossal,  while  above 
the  green,  which  was  streaked  with  some  lines  of  pure 
vermilion,  the  clouds  were  a sea  of  rippling  rose-colour, 
and  in  the  darkness  below,  at  the  foot  of  a soleuin, 
tree-covered  embankment,  lay  the  castle  moat,  a river 
of  molten  gold,  giving  light  in  the  gloom.  Actual  dark- 
ness came  on,  and  still  Fuji  rose  in  purple  into  the  fad- 
ing sky,  lingering  in  his  glory,  and  never,  while  the 
earth  and  heavens  last,  will  just  the  same  sight  be  seen 
again. 

One  of  the  most  recent  phases  of  TokiyS  has  been  the 
sort  of  craze  it  has  taken  for  giving  extravagant  enter- 
tainments to  guests.  The  Government  and  the  people 
Jiavc-  gone  wild  on  the  subject,  and  poor,  and  burdened 
with  debt  and  taxation  as  the  nation  is,  it  is  a matter 
for  regret  that  a course  of  such  decidedly  “ unremuner- 
ative  ” expenditure  should  have  been  entered  upon. 
Mr.  E.  J.  Reed,  M.P.,  was  the  first  guest  of  the  series, 
and  he  has  been  followed  by  General  Grant,  a grandson 


20i 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


of  Queen  Victoria,  Prince  Henry  of  Prussia,  and  the 
Duke  of  Genoa.  In  addition  to  the  sums  expended  by 
Government,  T6kiy6  spent  $50,000  in  entertaining 
General  Grant,  and  the  entertainment  given  to  him  in 
the  hall  and  grounds  of  the  Engineering  College  was 
one  of  the  most  successful ever  seen  in  the  capital, 
owing  to  the  number  and  beauty  of  the  lanterns  used 
for  illumination.  All  this  is  very  modern  and  “pro- 
gressive.” 

Whatever  else  may  or  may  not  be  seen  or  enjoyed,  the 
stx53t  life  of  TOkiyO  is  an  inexhaustible  source  of  pleas- 
ure. The  middle  and  lower  classes  have  an  outdoorish- 
ness  and  visibility  about  them  which  offer  a thousand 
points  of  interest.  The  shop  life,  the  canal  life,  the 
child  life,  T6kiy6  on  wheels,  on  foot,  and  under  umbrel- 
las, the  crowds  and  their  unvarying  good  temper  and 
good  behaviour,  the  flower  festivals,  the  fetes^  the  mat- 
suri  with  their  processions,  the  cheerful  funerals,  the 
throngs  in  the  popular  temples,  the  picnics,  the  water 
processions  by  day  and  night,  the  perpetual  illumina- 
tion with  coloured  lanterns,  the  quaint  incongruities, 
the  changing  and  shifting,  the  abundance  of  movement, 
the  ceaseless  industry,  the  personal  independence  and 
liberty  enjoyed  by  all  classes  shown  by  a demeanour 
neither  servile  nor  self-assertive,  the  tiny  houses  and 
doll-like  women,  the  old  and  the  new  mingling  in  a city 
no  part  of  which  is  more  than  tlrree  centuries  old,  form 
a series  of  separate  and  combined  pictures,  which  at 
once  bewilder  and  fascinate. 

Banks,  a Chamber  of  Commerce,  dispensaries,  exhi- 
bition buildings,  newspaper  and  telegraph  offices,  a rail- 
way station,  steamboat  offices,  photographic  galleries, 
and  powder  magazines,  are  all  essential  features  of  the 
new  capital. 

Truly  Yedo,  the  City  of  the  Sh6guns,  is  no  more.  A 


THE  BRAIN  OF  NEW  JAPAN, 


205 


city  of  camps,  “the  necessity  of  feudalism,”  it  perished 
with  the  old  rSgime^  to  be  born  again  as  a city  of  busi- 
ness, politics,  amusement,  bustle,  energy,  and  progress. 
TokiyO,  the  city  of  the  future,  is  the  brain  of  New 
Japan,  but  Kiyoto,  the  historic  capital,  the  home  of  art 
and  poetry,  must  remain  its  heart. 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


A JAPANESE  CONCERT. 

A ••  Dirty  Sky  ” — “ Rags  ” — Mr.  Mori  — A Ministerial  Entertain- 
ment— The  “Shiba  Pavilion” — An  Amateur  Orchestra  — The 
Japanese  Wagner  — An  Aristocratic  Belle  — A Juvenile  Danseuse 
— An  Agonising  Mystery  — The  “ Dead  March  ” in  Saul—  Japan- 
ese Music — Musical  Instruments  — Lady  Parkes. 

H.B.M.’s  Legation,  Yedo,  October  11. 
The  weather  produces  a lassitude  which  makes  let- 
ter-writing difficult.  Every  now  and  then  a bright,  hot 
day  occurs,  but  usually  it  rains  as  it  has  been  raining 
for  weeks  past,  and  the  sailor's  phrase,  “ a dirty  sky,”  is 
the  only  one  which  describes  the  dull  brown  clouds  and 
stagnant  brown  mists.  The  mercury  hovers  about  80°, 
the  air  is  quite  still,  and  stillness  and  heat  together 
make  one  expect  a thunderstorm,  which  never  comes ; 
but  instead  we  have  had  a smart  shock  of  earthquake, 
which  seemed  equally  suitable  to  the  weather.  Ever}^- 
thing  is  moist  or  sticky,  boots  mildew  four  hours  after 
they  have  been  blacked,  writing-paper  has  to  be  dried 
near  a charcoal  brazier  before  it  is  used,  soap  jellifies, 
ink  turns  mouldy,  appetite  for  solid  food  entirely  fails, 
every  one  is  more  or  less  ailing.  Sir  Harry,  much  worn 
out,  has  gone  to  Hakone,  Lady  Parkes,  who  has  been 
suffering  from  intermittent  fever,  has  gone  to  Yoko- 
hama, and  Mr.  Chamberlain,  the  two  children,  “ Rags,” 
and  I,  are  all  feeble.  “ Rags  ” takes  very  little  notice 
of  me  when  his  own  people  are  here,  but  now  he  is 
most  attentive  to  me,  lies  by  my  chair,  sleeps  on  my 


ME.  MOEL 


207 


hearthrug  at  night,  assumes  a very  cordial  manner,  and 
expects  me  to  feed  him  and  attend  to  his  comfort.  Mr. 
Chamberlain  has  been  here  for  a fortnight,  which  has 
been  a great  pleasure  to  me,  ik  : only  because  he  is  an 
excellent  cicerone.^  but  because  lie  is  such  a thorough 
lover  of  Japan,  as  well  as  a Japanese  student,  and  is 
never  bored  by  being  asked  any  number  of  questions, 
even  though  many  of  them  are  trivial  and  unintelligent. 
I have  been  utilising  the  bad  weather  by  studying  sev- 
eral volumes  of  the  Japan  Weekly  Mail.,  and  files  of  the 
Tokiyo  Times.,  and  the  “ Transactions  ” of  the  Asiatic 
Society  for  several  years,  the  three  combined  being 
better  than  all  the  books  of  travels  put  together  for 
steeping  one  in  a Japanese  atmosphere. 

The  few  bright  days  have  been  very  bright,  and  like 
our  English  midsummer  (when  we  have  summer  at 
all).  On  one  of  the  brightest  we,  with  Miss  Gordon 
Gumming,  who  arrived  in  the  middle  of  September, 
went  to  an  afternoon  entertainment  given  to  the  diplo- 
matic body  in  the  Shiba  Pavilion,  one  of  the  i\Iikado’s 
smaller  palaces,  by  Mr.  Arenori  Mori,  Vice-minister  for 
foreign  affairs.^  Mr.  Mori  is  one  of  the  most  progres- 
sive of  Japanese  politicians,  and,  under  an  Oriental  des- 
potism, is  “an  advanced  Liberal.”  He  would  tolerate 
everything.  He  is  in  favour  of  “ Women’s  Eights ; ” he 
was  married  much  in  English  civil  fashion  ; his  wife 
dresses  tastefully  in  English  style,  and  receives  his 
guests  along  with  himself ; he  regards  Shinto  only  as  a 
useful  political  engine,  and  has  even  formally  proposed 
the  adoption  of  the  English  language  in  Japan,  if  we 
would  agree  to  a phonetic  system  of  spelling.  He  was 
in  America  for  some  years,  speaks  English  tolerably 
well,  and,  unlike  most  of  his  countrymen,  knows  how 
to  wear  the  European  dress. 


1 Recently  appointed  Minister  to  Enp^land. 


208 


U If  BEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


He  received  us  at  the  door  of  the  Pavilion,  and  con- 
ducted us  to  a room  where  nearly  the  whole  diplomatic 
corps  was  assembled ; the  Chinese  ministers  being  con- 
spicuous in  blue  silk  robes  with  squares  of  gold  em- 
broidery on  the  back  and  front,  long  amber  necklaces, 
and  white  hats  covered  with  crimson  fringe.  The  only 
costumes  besides  these  were  worn  by  two  young  Japan- 
ese ladies,  daughters  of  nobles,  who  looked  awkward 
and  timid  sitting  on  chairs  in  dark  silk  kimonos  and 
very  thick  and  heavy  girdles.  The  room  consisted  of  a 
suite  of  rooms  in  Japanese  'style,  thrown  open  to  the 
verandah,  and  looking  upon  a large  garden  very  beauti- 
fully laid  out,  bounded  on  the  sea  side  by  a massive 
stone  embankment,  wliich  is  concealed  from  the  house 
by  grass  mounds  and  trees.  This  veiy  attractive 
pleasure-ground  is  a dexterous  artificial  composition 
of  closely  shaven  lawns,  lakes  with  small  islands  and 
stone  bridges,  stone  lanterns,  shrubberies,  distorted 
pines,  and  flagged  and  gravelled  walks.  Not  a stray 
twig  or  leaf  was  visible,  and  the  walks  were  so  ex- 
quisitely smooth  that  it  seemed  as  if  a lady’s  train 
might  rudely  ruffle  them.  From  the  mounds  there  is 
a fine  view  of  the  Gulf  of  Yedo,  and  junks  and  fishing- 
boats  sail  within  a few  yards  of  the  garden  wall.  The 
house,  a very  simple  and  pretty  Japanese  building,  is 
Europeanised  by  a tawdry  Brussels  carpet,  black  and 
gold  lacquer  chairs,  and  black  and  gold  tables  with 
books  of  Japanese  pictures  upon  them. 

Tea  in  cups  with  handles  and  saucers  was  handed 
round  by  servants  in  black  dress  suits,  with  white  ties. 
The  diversion  provided  was  a juggling  performance 
upon  mats  laid  on  the  lawn,  and  consisted  mainly  of 
clever  but  tedious  feats  of  balancing  balls,  cups,  sticks, 
and  vases,  with  a drumming  accompaniment,  a great 
waste  of  time  and  skill.  There  was  an  interlude  of  a 


AN  AMATEUR  ORCHESTRA. 


209 


very  abundant  “ collation,”  with  all  sorts  of  food,  ice 
cream,  abundance  of  claret  cup,  champagne,  and  “mint 
julep,”  served  on  a long  table,  with  about  twenty  wait- 
ers rustling  about  in  European  clothes.  The  china  was 
all  English,  and  not  pretty.  Mr.  Mori  complimented 
me  with  much  bonhommie  on  my  “ unprecedented  tour,” 
and  remarked  that  people  rarely  travelled  in  Northern 
Japan.  After  more  juggling,  the  party  broke  up,  and  I 
regretted  the  loss  of  an  afternoon,  as  lost  it  was,  for 
this  entertainment  was  a mere  imitation  of  an  Eng- 
lish reception,  and  had  nothing  distinctively  Japanese 
about  it. 

A very  interesting  one  was  given  a few  days  after- 
wards by  Mr.  Satow,  in  his  beautiful  Japanese  house, 
the  furnishing  of  which  is  the  perfection  of  Japanese 
and  European  good  taste  and  simplicity.  The  draw- 
ing-room is  purely  Japanese,  with  ceiling  and  posts  of 
planed  wood,  walls  of  carefully  roughened  greenish 
grey  plaster,  a polished  alcove  and  fine  tatam%  with 
here  and  there  a Persian  carpet  over  them  ; a rich, 
quiet-coloured  couch,  a few  chairs,  a solitary  table  with 
a lamp,  a stand  with  some  rare  books,  a very  few  bronze 
ornaments  and  some  fine  engravings,  and  flowers  in 
vases  hanging  on  the  walls,  completed  its  furnishing. 
There  were  only  the  two  English  Secretaries,  the  wife 
of  one  of  them,  and  myself.  The  little  dinner  was 
worthy  of  one  of  Disraeli’s  descriptions,  and  was  served 
by  noiseless  attendants  in  Japanese  dress.  Shortly 
after  we  went  to  the  drawing-room,  thirteen  gentle- 
men and  ladies  of  remarkably  dignified  and  refined 
appearance  entered  with  musical  instruments,  carried 
by  servants,  who  then  retired.  These  musicians  were 
an  amateur  orchestra  under  the  leadership  of  a Jap- 
anese composer,  who  aspires  to  be  the  Wagner  of 
Japan,  and  who  composed  the  music  with  which  the 
evening  was  occupied. 


210 


UNBEATEN  TIlACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


Tlie  orchestra  consisted  of  six  ladies,  two  of  whom 
were  elderly  widows,  and  six  men.  On  the  floor  were 
five  kotos.,  each  one  six  feet  long.  A young  girl,  daugh- 
ter of  a noble  who  has  filled  several  high  official  posi- 
tions, played  on  a most  exquisitely  made  antique 
instrument,  called  the  slid.,  formed  of  several  reeds 
beautifully  lacquered  in  gold,  banded  Avith  silver,  and 
set  in  a circular  box  of  fine  gold  lacquer.  This  needed 
to  be  constantly  Avarmed  at  a stand  of  rich  lacquer, 
containing  a charcoal  brazier.  The  girl  Avas  A^ery 
pretty  for  a Japanese,  and  perfectly  bcAvitching  by 
the  dignified  grace  of  her  manner;  but  lier  face  and 
throat  were  much  whitened  with  poAvder,  and  her 
lower  lip  was  patched  with  A^ermilion.  Her  “ evening 
dress  ” consisted  of  a kimono  of  soft,  bronze  green  silk, 
with  sleeves  hanging  nearly  to  her  ankles,  an  under 
vest,  showing  at  the  neck,  of  scarlet  crejpe  splashed 
with  gold,  a girdle  of  3J  yards  of  rich  sihmr  brocade 
made  into  a large  lump  at  the  back,  and  white  cloth 
socks.  She  Avore  a large  chignon^  into  Avliich  some 
scarlet  crepe  was  twisted,  a loop  of  hair  on  the  top  of 
her  head,  and  a heavy  tortoise-shell  pin  Avith  a branch 
of  pink  coral  at  one  end,  stuck  through  tlie  chignon. 
The  other  young  ladies  Avere  dressed  in  kimono  of  dark 
blue  silk,  with  blue  girdles  brocaded  with  silver ; and 
the  two*  elderly  Avidows  Avore  dark  silk  kimono  and 
haori  of  the  same.  The  men  all  wore  silk  hakama 
and  haori. 

* These  people  were  all  thoroughly  well-bred  Japanese. 
I cannot  describe  the  grace,  dignity,  and  courtesy  of 
their  'manners,  and  the  simple  kindliness  with  wliich 
they  exerted  themselves  on  our  behalf.  Their  demean- 
our was  altogether  natural,  and  it  was  most  interesting 
to  see  an  etiquette,  manner,  and  tone,  perfect  in  their 
way,  yet  not  in  the  slightest  particular  formed  upon 
our  models. 


AN  ARISTOCBATIC  BELLE. 


211 


Besides  this  very  interesting  orchestra,  there  was  a 
very  conspicuous  performer  in  the  shape  of  a child  of 
nine,  daughter  of  one  of  the  Mikado’s  chief  attend- 
ants, a being  of  unutterable  dignity  and  abstraction. 

“It  was  neither  man  nor  woman, 

It  was  neither  brute  nor  human  ; ” 

but  most  certainl}^,  it  was  not  “ a ghoul,”  but  a female 
presence  trained  from  its  infancy  to  perfect  self-posses- 
sion, and  to  a complete  knowledge  of  the  etiquette  per- 
taining to  its  sex  and  age  — a little  princess,  the  out- 
come of  one  of  the  most  highly  artificial  systems  of 
civilisation. 

Imagine  some  lamps  upon  the  floor,  with  the  orches- 
tra behind  them,  the  kotos  on  the  floor,  the  music  on 
lacquer  desks,  such  as  are  used  in  temples ; and  at  the 
other  end  of  the  room,  ourselves  lounging  in  easy 
chairs.  Into  the  open  space  between  us  this  being 
glided,  made  a profound  bow,  which,  like  the  bow  of 
royalty,  included  the  whole  company,  and  remained 
standing  like  a statue  till  the  music  recommenced. 
On  her  entrance  she  was  dressed  in  a kimono  of  rich 
striped  silk,  with  a girdle  of  scarlet  brocade.  Her 
liair  was  divided  circularly,  and  the  centre  drawn  uj) 
in  loops,  mixed  with  scarlet  crepe.,  and  secured  by  a 
gay  pin.  The  rest  hung  quite  straight  and  smooth 
behind  and  down  each  cheek,  while  the  front  was  cut 
straight  and  short  and  combed  down  to  her  eyebrows, 
much  in  the  style  of  a digger  Indian.  Her  face  was 
so  whitened  with  powder,  that  no  trace  of  “complex- 
ion ” could  be  seen,  and  her  lower  lip  was  reddened. 
After  a short  time  she  returned  to  her  attendants,  who 
stood  in  the  lobby,  and  re-appeared  in  a kimono  of 
white  silk  crepe  and  hakama  of  scarlet  satin,  such  as 
the  Empress  wears,  and  with  a fan  of  large  size  and 
extreme  beauty  in  her  hand. 


212 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN 


Again  the  instruments  wailed  and  screeched  forth 
their  fearful  discords,  and  the  miniature  court  lady 
entertained  us  with  two  prolonged  dances  illustrative 
of  the  music,  which  represented  the  four  seasons. 
Really,  the  performance  was  not  a dance  at  all,  but 
a series  of  dramatic  posturings  executed  with  faultless 
accuracy.  Much  use  was  made  of  the  fan,  the  little 
figure  swayed  rhythmically,  and  the  feet,  though  they 
moved  but  little,  were  occasionally  used  to  stamp  an 
emphasis,  as  in  the  ancient  lyric  drama.  The  expres- 
sion of  the  face  never  changed ; it  might  have  been  a 
mask.  We  were  completely  ignored,  the  upturned  eyes 
heeded  us  not,  the  training  was  perfect,  the  dramatic 
abstraction  complete.  The  perfect  self-possession  with 
which  this  little  “ princess  ” went  through  the  dance 
was  most  remarkable,  and  the  bow  at  the  end,  which 
once  more  included  the  whole  audience,  was  a work  of 
art.  The  dignity  was  painful,  not  ludicrous.  I often 
wished  that  the  small  maiden  would  falter  a little,  or 
be  embarrassed,  or  show  some  consciousness  of  our 
presence.  Nor  when  it  was  over  and  she  had  re- 
ceived our  thanks,  was  there  the  slightest  relapse  into 
childhood.  Mr.  de  Saumarez,  who  is  passionately  fond 
of  Japanese  children,  vainly  tried  to  win  her  into 
friendliness,  but  she  scarcely  spoke ; she  was  abso- 
lutely indifferent;  the  face  remained  motionless;  the 
dignity  was  real,  not  a veneering. 

Of  the  musical  performance,  as  is  fitting,  I write  with 
great  diffidence.  If  I was  excruciated,  and  experienced 
twinges  of  acute  neuralgia,  it  may  have  been  my  own 
fault.  The  performers  were  happy,  and  Mr.  Satow’s 
calm,  thoughtful  face  showed  no  trace  of  anguish. 
Oriental  music  is  an  agonising  mystery  to  me.  I won- 
dered at  the  time,  and  still  wonder,  whether  the  orches- 
tral music  of  the  Temple  on  Mount  Zion  would  not 


THE  BEAD  MAUCU  IN  SAUL:' 


213 


have  been  equally  discordant  to  western  ears.  A gulf 
not  to  be  spanned  divides  the  harmonies  of  the  East 
from  those  of  the  West.  The  performers  were  anxious 
to  hear  some  of  our  music,  and  Mrs.  Mounsey  played 
some  of  our  most  beautiful  and  plaintive  airs,  the  musi- 
cians standing  round  her  with  a look  of  critical  intelli- 
gence on  their  faces,  which  was  not  hopeful.  They 
thanked  her  gracefully,  but  even  their  Oriental  polite- 
ness was  unable  to  fabricate  a compliment.  Then  she 
played  the  “ Dead  March  ” in  Saul  with  more  than 
funereal  slowness,  but  an  almost  scornful  criticism  sat 
upon  their  faces,  the  instrument  and  the  “ March”  alike 
were  obviously  vapid,  trivial,  and  destitute  of  feeling. 
These  faces  were  all  well-bred  and  keenly  intelligent. 

There  were  five  kotos^  two  sho^  a Corean/^^^/^  or  flute, 
and  eventually  a Japanese  fuye.  There  were  two  or 
three  vocal  performances.  These  may  have  obeyed 
some  rules,  but  the  vocalists  certainly  did  not  take 
parts,  and  each  seemed  at  liberty  to  execute  excursions 
of  his  own  devising.  The  music  was  absolutely  mo- 
notonous, and  inflicted  a series  of  disappointments,  for 
every  time  that  it  seemed  to  tremble  upon  the  verge  of 
a harmony  it  relapsed  into  utter  dissonance.  There  was 
no  piano^  it  was  all  forte^  crescendo,  and  fortissimo.  Dr. 
Mueller  says,  however  — and  he  has  studied  the  Japan- 
ese and  their  music  intelligently  — “If  I am  asked 
what  impression  our  music  makes  upon  the  Japanese,  I 
am  sure  I shall  not  be  far  wrong  in  saying  tliat  they 
find  it  far  more  detestable  than  we  do  theirs.  A promi- 
nent Japanese  said,  not  to  me,  indeed,  for  their  polite- 
ness would  forbid  it,  ‘Children,  coolies,  and  women 
may  find  pleasure  in  European  music ; but  an  educated 
J apanese  can  never  tolerate  it ! ’ ” 

Japanese  music,  like  most  of  their  arts  and  sciences, 
is  mainly  Chinese  and  Corean,  and  its  theory  has  the 


214 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


usual  spirit  of  mystical  Chinese  speculation,  which, 
basing  the  forces  and  phenomena  of  nature  upon  the 
number  five.,  declares  that  as  sounds  belong  to  such 
phenomena,  there  must  be  five  tones,  but  in  stringed 
instruments  the  Japanese  make  use  of  chromatic  divis- 
ions, though  the  five  tones  alone  are  recognised 
officially.  The  key-notes  themselves  stand  in  a definite 
relation  to  the  months,  so  that  in  each  month  of  the 
twelve  a separate  and  perfectly  defined  key  rules,  so 
that  in  each  the  murmuring  of  the  wind  in  wind  instru- 
ments is  confined  to,  a special  key  ! I will  not  lead  you 
farther  into  the  fog  in  which  I speedily  found  myself  in 
spite  of  Mr.  Satow’s  possibly  lucid  explanations,  as  even 
the  initiated  say  that  Japanese  music  is  incomprehensi- 
ble, partly  because  the  text  of  much  of  the  older  music 
has  been  lost,  and  the  players  no  longer  know  the 
meaning  formerly  attached  to  it. 

Our  complicated  instruments,  such  as  those  with 
valves,  key-boards,  and  hammers,  are  unknown.  The 
Japanese  use  only  stringed  instruments,  which  are 
played  either  with  a bow  or  with  various  kinds  of 
sharpened  appliances,  wind  instruments  of  wood  or  shell 
with  metal  tongues,  and  instruments  of  percussion, 
made  of  wood  or  metal,  in  which  stretched  skins  are 
used. 

The  Icoto  has  several  varieties,  one  of  which  has  been 
known  for  1500  years.  The  special  one  played  at  Mr. 
Satow’s  has  13  strings  of  waxed  silk  stretched  from  two 
immovable  bridges,  placed  on  a sounding-board  of  very 
hard  wood  6 feet  long,  standing  on  four  very  low  feet, 
with  two  openings  on  the  under  side.  It  is  plajed  with 
ivory  finger  caps,  and  always,  before  beginning,  the 
performers  rubbed  their  hands  vigorously  together. 

The  sM  is  a beautiful-looking  instrument,  richly 
decorated  in  gold,  and  exquisitely  finished.  It  has 


MUSICAL  INSTRUMENTS, 


215 


seventeen  pipes  of  very  different  lengths,  let  into  a 
wind  chest,  each  pipe  being  provided  with  a metal 
tongue.  Its  sounds,  taken  singly,  are  powerful  and 
highly  melodious.  It  is  used  as  the  fundamental  in- 
strument in  tuning  in  the  Japanese  orchestras,  it  leads 
the  melody,  and  the  voice  is  always  in  unison  with  it. 
The  kangura  fuye^  or  Japanese  flute,  claims  an  antiquity 
of  twelve  centuries,  and  the  homafuye^  or  Corean  flute, 
is  also  very  ancient. 

In  all  Japanese  wind  instruments  the  measure  of  the 
skill  of  the  player  is  the  length  of  time  for  which  he  can 
hold  on  a note.  The  power  and  penetrating  qualities 
of  the  sho  and  flutes  are  tremendous ; they  leave  not  a 
single  nerve  untortured ! The  voeal  performance  was 
most  excrueiating.  It  seemed  to  me  to  eonsist  of  a 
hyena-like  howl,  long  and  higli  (a  high  voiee  being 
equivalent  to  a good  voice),  varied  by  frequent  guttural, 
half-suppressed  sounds,  a bleat,  or  more  respectfully 
“ an  impure  shake,”  very  delieious  to  a musically-edu- 
cated Japanese  audience  which  is  both  scientific  and 
highly  critical,  but  eminently  distressing  to  European 
ears.  Another  source  of  pain  to  me  is  that  the  tuning 
of  the  koto  harmonises  with  our  minor  scale^  the  fourth 
and  seventh  being  omitted  in  deference  to  the  number 
five. 

Altogether  it  was  a most  interesting  evening,  and  I 
was  most  favourably  impressed  with  the  grave  courtesy, 
musical  enthusiasm,  and  strictly  Japanese  demeanour  of 
the  amateurs,  and  sincerely  hope  that  whatever  be  the 
fate  of  the  “ Music  of  the  Future,”  the  manners  of  the 
future  will  be  the  same  as  the  manners  of  the  present. 

I have  been  purposing  to  go  to  KiyOto,  by  the  Naka- 
sendo,  or  inland  mountain  route,  a journey  of  fourteen 
days,  and  have  engaged  a servant  interpreter  for  the 
impossible  task  of  replacing  Ito  ! The  rain,  however. 


216 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN 


has  never  ceased  for  four  days,  and  at  the  last  moment 
I have  been  obliged  to  give  up  this  land  journey,  the 
less  regretfully,  as  my  new  servant,  though  a most  re- 
spectable-looking man,  knows  hardly  any  English,  and 
I shrink  from  the  solitude  of  detentions  in  rain  and 
snow  in  lonely  and  elevated  yadoyas. 

Lady  Parkes  and  the  children  are  shortly  going  to 
England,  and  this  pleasant  home,  in  which  I have 
received  unbounded  kindness  and  hospitality,  will  be 
broken  up  ere  I return.  Lady  Parkes  carries  with  her 
the  good-will  and  regret  of  the  whole  foreign  commu- 
nity, for,  besides  the  official  and  semi-official  courtesies 
and  hospitalities  which  she  has  shown  as  a necessity  of 
Sir  Harry’s  position,  she  has  given  liberally  of  those 
sympathies  in  sorrow  and  of  those  acts  of  thoughtful 
and  unostentatious  kindness,  which  are  specially  appre- 
ciated by  those  who  are  “ strangers  in  a strange  land.” 
People  only  need  to  be  afflicted  in  “mind,  body,  or 
estate,”  to  be  sure  of  soft,  kind  words  genuinely  spoken, 
and  generous  attempts  at  alleviation.  Gossip  and 
unkind  speech  have  been  met  by  quiet  coldness,  and 
she  has  laboured  long  and  earnestly  to  promote  good 
feeling  among  all  classes.  She  will  be  much  missed  by 
the  higher  classes  of  Japanese  women,  for  she  has 
used  all  the  opportunities  within  her  power  to  win  their 
confidence  and  friendship,  striving  quietly  to  bring  them 
forward,  and  to  encourage  them  to  take  a more  active 
part  in  the  influential  sphere  of  social  duty.  T6kiyo 
and  Yokohama  are  about  to  show  their  regret  for  her 
departure  by  giving  her  magnificent  farewell  entertain- 
ments. 

My  last  day  has  come,  and  the  rain  still  falls  iu  tor- 
rents from  a dingy  sky  ! I.  L.  B. 


THE  HIEOSniMA  MAE  IT. 


217 


y 


A MISSIONARY  CENTRE. 

The  niroshima  Maru  — A Picturesque  Fishing  Fleet  — A Kind  Re- 
ception— A Mission  Centre  — A Model  Settlement  — The  Native 
Town  — Foreign  Trade  — The  Girls’  Ilome  — Bible  Classes  — The 
First  Christian  Newspaper  — Defects  in  Mission  Schools  — Man- 
ners and  Etiquette  — “ Missionary  Manners  ” — The  Truth  Fore- 
shadowed — Separation  in  Foreign  Society  — A Yow. 

K6be,  October  20. 

The  day  before  I left  T6kiy6,  the  rain  fell  in  such 
torrents  that  I could  not  even  send  my  servant  into 
Yokohama  with  my  baggage ; the  next  day  I dispensed 
with  him,  giving  him  a suitable  compensation,  and  have 
not  yet  been  suffered  to  miss  him. 

On  a cool  and  brilliant  afternoon,  dashing  through 
tlie  blue  water,  amidst  crowds  of  sampans.,  in  the  Juno's 
steam-launch,  and  afterwards  on  the  broad  white  deck 
of  the  Shanghai  mail  steamer,  Hiroshima  Maru.,  with 
Fuji  standing  out  in  his  magnificent  loneliness  against 
a golden  sky  — a violet  dome  crested  with  snow,  I was 
a little  in  love  with  Yokohama  — at  a distance!  That 
Hiroshima.,  a large  American  sidewheel,  deck-over-deck, 
unrigged  steamer,  is  a historic  boat,  for  she  was  the 
Golden  Age  on  the  old  Panama  route,  and,  in  the  palmy 
days  of  California,  used  to  carry  1000  passengers  at  a 
time  to  the  golden  land.  One  of  her  large  cabins  is 
still  called  the  El  Dorado,  and  the  other  L’Esperance, 
and  the  last  being  allotted  to  me,  proved  a good  omen, 
for  I never  made  a more  charming  voyage.  Captain 


218 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


Furber’s  genial  kindness,  excellent  accommodation,  a 
refined  cuisine.,  brilliant  sunshine,  grand  coast  views, 
and  a waveless  sea,  all  combining  to  make  it  pleasant. 
After  such  dingy,  drowning  weather,  one  appreciates 
the  sunshine  heartily. 

On  the  evening  of  the  second  day,  ahead,  astern, 
around,  near  and  far,  wherever  we  could  see,  great  flar- 
ing lights  were  bobbing  and  curtseying  just  above  the 
water,  and  as  they  drifted  b}^,  and  the  eye  became  ac- 
customed to  them,  they  appeared  as  a confused  multi- 
tude of  fitful  fires  hanging  over  the  bows  of  hundreds  of 
fishing-boats,  plying  their  trade  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kii 
Channel,  by  which  we  were  entering  the  inland  sea,  and 
groups  of  figures  always  struggliug  at  the  boats’  heads, 
now  in  the  glare,  and  now  in  the  darkness,  the  fiery 
light  in  its  redness  and  fitfulness,  and  the  phospho- 
rescent light  in  its  whiteness  and  steadiness,  formed 
one  of  the  most  picturesque  illuminations  I ever  beheld. 
These  lights  are  much  used  in  fishing,  specially  for 
squid.  By  long  wooden  handles  the  fishermen  hold 
over  the  side  of  their  boats  iron  cages,  in  which  they 
burn,  like  the  Ainos,  birch  bark  strips,  wliich  give  a 
clear  and  vivid  light,  very  speedily  extinct.  It  is  sup- 
posed that  the  fish,  confused  by  the  glare,  are  more 
readily  taken.  I wished  the  followers  of  Yebis  a good 
haul  that  night,  for  the  sake  of  the  pleasure  they  had 
given  me. 

We  anchored  here  in  the  early  morning  in  torrents  of 
rain,  accompanied  by  a high  wind,  and  neither  had 
ceased  when  Mr.  Gulick  came  off  for  me,  and  in  a very 
short  time  took  me  to  his  New  England  home.  He  is  a 
son  of  one  of  the  early  missionaries  to  the  Sandwich 
Islands,  who  has  six  missionary  children,  four  of  whom 
are  in  Japan,  three  living  here  under  the  same  roof  with 
tlieir  venerable  mother.  Mrs.  Gulick  is  also  a born 


A MISSION  CENTBE. 


219 


Sandwich  Islander,  a sister  of  my  friends  Mrs.  Sever- 
ance and  Mrs.  Austin  of  Hawaii ; the  house  is  built 
like  a Hilo  house,  and  has  many  Polynesian  “ effects  ” 
about  it,  and  you  can  imagine  how  we  revel  in  Hawai- 
ian talk,  and  how  the  fires  of  Kilauea,  the  glorious  for- 
ests of  Hilo,  the  waving  palms,  the  dimplmg  ^eas,  the 
coral  caves,  the  purple  nights,  and  all  the  never-to-be- 
forgotten  beauties  of  those  enchanted  islands,  mingle  ^n 
our  speech  with  some  personal  recollections  and  some 
gossip,  and  I dream  my  tropical  dream  once  more. 

This  is  the  headquarters  of  mission-work  under  the 
auspices  of  the  “American  Board.”  Somehow  when 
one  thinks  of  K6be  it  is  less  as  a Treaty  Port  than  as  a 
Mission  centre.  It  was  partly  to  see  the  process  of 
missionary  work  that  I came.  Everything  is  at  high 
pressure,  and  a hearty,  hopeful  spirit  prevails  among  all 
who  have  got  over  the  initial  difficulties  of  the  lan- 
guage, which  press  lieavily  on  new-comers.  The  mis- 
sionaries are  all  intensely  American  in  s})eech,  manner, 
and  tone,  and  set  about  their  work  with  a curious  prac- 
ticality and  a confident  apportionment  of  means  to  ends 
which  I have  not  seen  before  in  this  connection.  They 
are  quite  a community,  mixing  little,  if  at  all,  with  the 
other  foreign  residents,  but  forming  a very  affectionate 
and  intimate  family  among  themselves.  K6be  being  a 
place  of  energetic  effort,  and  of  reputed  success,  is  the 
spot  in  Japan  in  which  to  gauge  in  some  degree  the 
prospects  of  Christianity;  but  I shall  defer  saying 
much  on  the  subject  till  I have  been  to  Kiy6to  and 
Osaka. 

K6be  is  a bright,  pleasant-looking  settlement,  by  far 
the  most  prepossessing  of  the  “Treaty  Ports”  that  I 
have  seen,  situated  on  an  inland  sea,  on  the  other  side 
of  which  the  mountainous  island  of  Kiushiu  rises. 
Westwards,  wooded  points  and  promontories,  melting 


220 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


into  a blue  haze,  or  fiery  purple  in  the  sunset,  appear  to 
close  the  channel,  while  eastwards  a stretch  of  land- 
locked water,  crowded  with  white  sails,  leads  to  the  city 
of  Osaka,  the  commercial  capital  of  Japan.  A range 
of  steep,  somewhat  bare,  and  very  picturesquely-shaped 
hills,  with  pines  in  their  hollows,  and  temples,  torii.,  and 
tea-houses  on  their  heights,  rises  immediately  behind 
Jv6be,  wliich,  with  Hiogo,  the  old  Japanese  town,  of 
which  it  is  a continuation,  is  packed  along  the  shore  for 
a distance  of  three  miles,  the  Kiyoto  and  Hiogo  Rail- 
way, opened  in  great  slate  by  the  Mikado  in  February 
1877,  running  througli  the  town,  down  to  a pier  which 
enables  ships  of  large  tonnage  to  receive  cargo  direct 
from  the  railway  trucks.  The  Foreign  Concession, 
beautifully  and  regularly  laid  out  on  a grand  scale  for 
the  population  which  it  has  never  attracted,  is  at  the 
east  end.  It  is  a “ model  settlement,”  well  lighted  with 
gas,  and  supplied  with  water,  kept  methodically  clean, 
and  efficiently  cared  for  by  the  police.  The  Bund  lias 
a fine  stone  embankment,  a grass  parade,  and  a magnifi- 
cent carriage-road,  with  the  British,  American,  and 
German  Consulates,  and  some  “ imposing  ” foreign  resi- 
dences on  the  other  side.  Several  short  streets  run 
back  from  this,  crossing  a long  one  parallel  with  the 
Bund.  The  side-walks  are  very  broad,  and  well  paved 
with  stones  laid  edgewise,  with  curb-stones  and  hand- 
some paved  water-ways,  and  the  carriage-roads  are  broad 
and  beautifully  kept.  The  foreign  houses  are  spacious 
and  solid,  and  the  railroad,  and  the  station  and  its  envi- 
ronments, are  of  the  most  approved  English  construc- 
tion. 

But  where  are  the  people?  Roads  without  houses, 
carriage-ways  without  carriages,  side-walks  without 
foot-passengers,  and  a solitude  so  dreary  that  three  men 
stopping  in  the  street  to  talk  is  a sight  which  might 


TBE  NATIVE  TOWN. 


221 


collect  the  rest  of  the  community  to  stare  at  it,  are  fea 
tures  of  what  was  intended  to  be  an  important  place. 
It  is  mainly  English,  but  there  are  only  about  170 


A HIOGO  BUDDHA. 


British  residents,  and  this  includes  all  the  British  firms 
from  Osaka,  who  migrated  here  when  the  railroad  was 
opened.  There  is  an  English  “ omnibus  ” Church  be- 
hind the  Bund,  in  which  service  is  conducted  once  on 
Sunday  by  an  American  Congregational  clergyman, 


222 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


and  once  by  Mr.  Foss,  the  missionary  of  the  English 
“ S.P.G.”  A number  of  foreign,  wooden  houses  strag- 
gle up  the  foot-hills  at  the  back,  some  of  them  unmis- 
takable English  bungalows,  while  those  which  look  like 
Massachusetts  homesteads  are  occupied  by  American 
missionaries.  In  spite  of  the  solitude  and  stagnation 
of  the  streets  of  the  settlement,  K6be  is  a pertinacious- 
1}^  cheerful-looking  place.  In  sunshine  it  is  all  ablaze 
with  light,  and  even  in  wind  and  rain  its  warm  colour- 
ing saves  it  from  dismalness.  A large  native  town  has 
grown  up  at  K6be,  as  a continuation  of  liiogo,  and  the 
two  are  active,  tliriving,  and  bustling;  their  narrow 
streets  being  tlu-onged  with  people,  kuru7uas,  and  ox- 
carts, while  sweeping  roofs  of  temples  on  heights  and 
flats,  torii.,  great  bronze  Buddhas,  colossal  stone  lan- 
terns, and  other  tokens  of  prevailing  Buddhism,  give 
the  native  town  a variety  and  picturesqueness  very 
pleasing  to  the  ej^e.  The  crowded  junk  harbour,  the 
number  of  large  steamers,  both  Japanese  and  British, 
lying  off  the  Bund,  and  the  blue  mountains  across  the 
water,  make  it  as  pretty  to  look  from  as  to  look  at. 

As  at  Hakodate,  foreign  trade  is  decreasing,  and 
Japanese  trade  is  rapidly  increasing.  It  is  quite  inter- 
esting to  find  how  widely  the  exports  differ  in  different 
parts  of  Japan.  In  Yezo  it  was  fish,  seaweed,  and 
skins,  here  it  is  mainly  tea,  silk,  copper,  vegetable 
wax,  tobacco,  camphor,  mushrooms,  and  fans,  of  wliich 
four  millions  were  exported  last  year,  mainly  to  Amer- 
ica. The  rapid  increase  in  the  native  town  is  quite 
wonderfid ; it  is  said  that  Hiogo  and  K6be  between 
them  have  a population  of  50,000  people. 

The  Secretary  of  the  American  Board  of  Missions 
most  kindly  wrote,  commending  me  to  the  missionaries 
heie,  and  I am  made  veiy  welcome  consequently.  Yes- 
terday evening  we  went  to  tea  at  the  “ Girls’  Home,”  a 


BIBLE  CLASSES. 


223 


boarding-school  for  twenty-seven  Japanese  girls,  the 
prettiest  house  in  K6be,  in  very  attractive  grounds. 
This  is  conducted  by  three  ladies,  with  Japanese  assist- 
ance. The  girls  live  in  Japanese  fashion,  but  learn  our 
music,  in  which  they  are  very  anxious  to  excel.  The 
ladies  who  keep  it  speak  Japanese  fluently,  and  do  a 
great  deal  of  outside  mission-work,  not  only  in  K6be, 
but  in  villages  at  a distance,  where  tliey  hold  meetings 
for  women. 

Tliis  morning  I went  to  tlie  Bible  classes,  which  are 
attended  by  forty-six  men  and  twelve  women,  some  of 
them  quite  elderly.  The  plan  is  for  each  woman  to 
read  a few  verses  aloud  from  the  New  Testament,  and 
give  her  ideas  upon  them,  and  such  ideas  they  are  as 
would  never  occur  to  a European,  or  to  any  one  who 
had  had  the  sough  of  Christianity  about  his  ears  from 
infancy.  They  ask  many  questions,  and  show  an  inter- 
est and  vivacity  which,  at  least,  must  keep  the  teacher 
alert,  and  there  was  so  much  laughter  that  one  would 
hardly  have  imagined  the  Bible  to  be  the  subject.  No 
traditional  reverence-  has  gathered  round  it,  they  pos- 
sess but  a few  fragments,  and  it  is  to  them  simply  a 
story  of  facts  with  a moral  code  attached.  Several  of 
their  questions  were  startling,  but  natural.  “ What  is 
the  name  of  God’s  wife  ? one  woman  asked,  on  hear- 
ing of  the  Divine  Son.  We  visited  more  classes  where 
there  were  100  pupils,  and  then  went  to  church,  where 
the  sermon  was  cold  and  hard,  as  if  Christianity  had 
grown  sapless  and  wizened  with  age. 

This  Mission  has  at  K6be  nine  men  missionaries,  all 
but  one  with  wives,  and  flve  single  ladies;  in  6saka 
four  men  and  three  single  ladies,  and  in  KiyOto,  three 
men  and  one  single  lady.  Two  are  Medical  INIissiona- 
ries,  and  through  their  popular  work  several  villages 
within  treaty  limits  have  been  opened  to  Christianity, 


224 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


two  of  which  now  possess  churches  and  pastors  of  their 
own.  In  Kobe  there  are  three  preaching  places,  and 
two  “out-stations;”  in  Osaka  three,  and  one  “out- 
station  ;■  ” in  Kiy6to  three,  and  two  “ out-stations,”  be- 
sides numerous  women’s  meetings  and  classes.  Nearly 
all  the  missionaries  itinerate  regularly  within  treaty 
limits,  and  irregularly  wdth  passports  beyond  them 
'J'hey  have  girls’  boarding-schools  in  the  three  towns, 
and,  as  another  agency,  a newspaper  with  a Japanese 
editor,  but  under  Mr.  Gulick’s  supervision,  the  Shichi 
Ichi  Zdppo.,  or  Weekly  Messenger,  established  in  Janu- 
ary 1876.  It  has  a circulation  of  about  1100  among 
native  Christians,  and  tliis  is  always  slowly  increasing 
It  gives  general  news,  but  as  it  abstains  from  unfavour- 
able criticism  on  the  actions  of  the  Government,  and 
praises  it  dexterously  every  now  and  then,  it  has  es- 
caped a “ press  warning.”  It  treats  of  the  progress  of 
Christianity,  and  of  other  subjects  interesting  to  the 
professors  of  the  new  faith.  It  may  become  a really 
valuable  organ  if  its  expression  of  native  Christian 
opinion  is  not  unduly  hampered.  As,  for  instance  just 
now,  the  editor  wrote  a kindly  but  serious  criticism  on 
the  Avay  in  which  girls’  Christian  schools  are  conducted, 
setting  forth  that  there  is  a failure  in  domestic  training, 
and  that,  consequently,  young  men  would  not,  indeed 
could  not,  seek  for  wives  among  the  girls  educated  by 
the  missionaries.  This  seems  to  me  the  weak  point  of 
the  different  female  schools  that  I have  heard  of.  Of 
nourse,  the  first  object  is  to  give  a Christian  training, 
and  raise  the  standard  of  morality,  which  must  be  lew 
enough  if  it  is  represented  truthfully  by  a superior  sort 
of  girl,  who  told  the  teacher  that  to  form  connections 
with  foreigners  is  the  great  ambition  of  girls  in  her 
position.  Besides  instruction  in  Christianity,  the  usual 
branches  of  a polite  education,  including  music,  are 


MANNEBS  AND  ETIQUETTE. 


22b 


taught,  and  further  time  is  taken  up  by  teaching  the 
Chinese  character,  which  girls  are  very  anxious  to 
learn.  In  Japanese  training  great  stress  is  laid  upon 
the  housewifely  education,  and  to  be  accomplished  in 
all  housewifely  arts  is  a just  object  of  desire  with  every 
right-minded  Japanese  girl.  This  very  essential  part 
of  education  is  almost  of  necessity  crowded  out  in  the 
foreign  schools,  and  I have  not  hesitated  to  express  my 
opinion  to  my  missionary  friends  as  to  the  injurious 
consequences.  Here  they  sit  on  the  floor  and  eat 
Japanese  food  in  Japanese  fashion,  but  in  some  other 
foreign  schools  they  sit  on  chairs  at  dining  tables,  and 
eat  meat,  European  fashion,  with  knives  and  forks, 
table  napkins,  if  I mistake  not,  being  used  also.  V'ery 
few  Japanese  can  afford  to  give. these  luxuries  to  their 
wives.  To  foreigners,  a girl  in  some  degree  accustomed 
to  our  usages,  and  speaking  a little  English,  is,  in  many 
cases,  more  attractive  than  one  solely  Japanese  in  her 
language  and  habits,  and  with  misguided  female  ambi- 
tion on  the  one  side,  and  the  habits  which  prevail  in  the 
East  on  the  other,  there  is  much  reason  to  fear  that  re- 
sults may  occur  which  would  be  to  none  so  painful  as 
to  the  missionaries  themselves. 

Another  difiiculty  which  presents  itself  very  defi- 
nitely to  me,  is  regarding  manners  and  etiquette.  You 
remember  I to  telling  me,  when  I found  fault  with  his 
manners,  that  they  were  “just  missionary  manners.” 
It  is  in  some  cases  true  that  the  missionaries,  disliking 
the  hollowness  and  insincerity  which  underlie  a good 
deal  of  Japanese  politeness,  discourage  its  courtesies  as 
a waste  of  time,  and  that  young  men,  who  Lave  been 
for  some  time  under  missionary  training,  are  apt  to 
shock  one  by  a brusquerie  and  regardlessness  of  man- 
ner and  attitude,  which  would  be  displeasing  even  in 
Europeans ; but  I don’t  refer  to  this,  but  to  the  una 


226 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


voidable  ignorance  of  foreign  ladies  of  the  thousand 
and  one  details  of  Japanese  female  etiquette.  Thus,  I 
have  heard  a native  critic  say  that  the  girls  trained  by 
the  foreign  ladies  use  their  chop-sticks  “ disgracefully ; ” 
that  they  don’t  know  at  what  height  to  carry  a tray  of 
tea ; that  their  girdles  are  badly  tied ; that  their  bows 
are  short  and  ungraceful ; that  they  enter  a room  awk- 
wardly, etc.  This  critic  is  a Christian,  and  most  anxious 
for  the  success  of  the  foreign  schools. 

Ah,  well ! If  we  are  not  a stiff-necked,  we  are  a stiff- 
backed  generation,  and  the  American  back  is  even 
stiffer  than  ours,  and  with  the  best  intentions,  we 
can  never  emulate  the  invertebrate  obeisances  of  Ori- 
entals. Still  it  is  very  distasteful  to  me  to  see  a low 
and  graceful  bow  acknowledged  by  a hasty  “ bob,”  and 
all  the  graceful  national  courtesies  ignored,  nor  does 
this  “ laying  the  axe  to  the  root  of  the  tree  ” of 
hoary  national  custom  commend  Christianity.  I abhor 
the  denationalisation  of  nations,  and  should  like  to  see 
Japanese  courtesies  studied  and  met  at  least  half-way, 
and  the  etiquette  of  Japanese  politeness  informed  and 
infused  throughout  by  the  truth  and  sincerity  of  the 
religion  of  Jesus  Christ,  which  enjoins  courtesy  and 
“ honour  ” to  “ all  men,”  as  it  enjoins  truth  and  charity. 
1 1 is  noteworthy  that  a medical  missionary  here,  by  an 
almost  Oriental  courtesy  and  suavity  of  deportment, 
has  commended  himself  so  much  to  the  upper  classes 
and  to  men  in  influential  positions,  that  he  has  obtained 
from  Government  various  important  openings  for  mis- 
sion work,  which  his  more  brusque  and  stiff-backed 
brethren  would  have  sought  for  years  in  vain.  I am 
just  writing  to  you  what  I have  said  to  my  friends  with 
some  earnestness,  for  the  Christian  religion  is  unpopular 
enough  in  Japan,  without  weighting  it  with  the  mill- 
stone of  an  implied  and  practised  antagonism  to  the 


SEPAHATION  IN  FOREIGN  SOCIETY, 


227 


ancient  laws  of  good  breeding,  which,  like  the  cos- 
tumes, fit  the  people,  and  from  which  we  might  advan- 
tageously learn  not  a little. 

Except  in  a few  cases  the  missionaries  of  the  differ- 
ent denominations  know  nearly  nothing  of  the  two 
great  national  faiths.  Frequently,  on  asking  the  mean- 
ing of  various  significant  heathen  ceremonies,  I receive 
the  reply,  “ Oh,  I take  no  interest  in  their  rubbish,”  or 
“ Oh,  it’s  not  worth  knowing,”  or  “ Oh,  it’s  just  one  of 
their  absurdities,”  or  “ I really  have  no  time  to  get  in- 
formation on  these  matters,”  the  last  being  a sufficient 
reason,  and  certainly  applicable  to  the  Kobe  missiona- 
ries, who  devote  their  time  to  their  work  with  most 
praiseworthy  energy.  With  regard  to  Sliinto,  except 
to  the  antiquary  or  student,  its  superstitions  are  simply 
rubbish,  but  it  constantly  occurs  to  me  that  even  the 
corrupt  form  of  Buddhism  which  prevails  in  Japan,  as 
it  possesses  an  ethical  code  and  definite  teachings  con- 
cerning immortality^,  might  be  used  as  a valuable  auxil- 
iary in  the  preaching  of  Christianity  by  a teacher  who 
had  studied  it ; for  all  its  lotus  imagery,  its  doctrine  of 
purity,  and  its  penalties  for  unrighteousness,  are  but 
testimonies  to  the  Truth  that  “without holiness  no  man 
can  see  the  Lord,”  and  shadows  of  the  loftier  teaching 
of  Him  to  whom  all  that  is  True  in  every  creed  and 
age  bears  reverent  witness. 

In  K6be,  as  elsewhere,  there  is  a complete  separation 
between  the  foreign  and  the  missionary  community.  It 
is  possible  that  missionaries  lump  the  laity  together  as 
taking  no  interest  in  their  work,  and  shun  them  as  being 
uncongenial  and  antagonistic,  and  certainly  most  for- 
eigners speak  of  them  as  of  a pariah  caste,  and  many 
as  if  their  presence  in  Japan  were  an  outrage,  while 
scarcely  any  take  the  slightest  trouble  to  learn  what,  if 
any,  are  the  results  from  the  work  of  such  a large  num- 


228 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


ber  of  agents.  It  is  a pity,  and  many  hard  things  are 
said  on  both  sides  which  were  better  unsaid,  as  they  are 
not  always  true. 

The  few  days  since  I have  arrived  have  gone  very 
fast.  One  of  my  objects  in  coming  here  is  to  visit  the 
Shrines  of  Isd,  the  “ holy  places  ” of  Shint6ism,  and  as 
yet  I have  not  been  able  to  see  any  one  who  has  been 
there,  or  who  can  suggest  the  most  interesting  way 
of  going.  The  servant  difficulty  is  a great  one,  but 
Mr.  Flowers,  H.B.M.’s  Consul,  kindly  says,  that,  if  I 
cannot  do  better,  an  English-speaking  Japanese  from 
the  Consulate  shall  go  with  me.  As  usual,  kind  people 
are  taking  much  trouble  to  aid  me.  There  is  not  much 
to  see  in  these  towns,  except  the  busy  street  life  and 
the  large  number  of  temples,  but  the  walks  on  the  hills, 
and  the  variety  of  views  from  them,  are  beautiful. 
Some  of  the  Shint6  shrines  are  on  picturesque  heights, 
and  are  approached  through  avenues  of  red  toriL  In 
one  of  these  avenues,  consisting  of  about  120  of  these 
erections,  there  were  miniature  flag  poles,  seven  inches 
long,  planted  at  the  base  of  every  torii,,  each  one  with  a 
red  paper  flag  inscribed  with  Chinese  characters.  The 
translation  is  “ The  man  is  forty  years  old  who  makes 
this  request.  He  was  born  in  the  year  of  the  Dog.  If 
it  be  granted,  he  will  give  500  of  these  flags.”  The  re- 
quest was  not  given.  I.  E.  B. 


MOUNTAIN-GIRDLED  KIY6tO, 


229 


THE  KIYOTO  COLLEGE. 

Mountain-girdled  Kiyoto  — Third-class  Travelling  — The  Uome  of  Art 
— The  Kiydto  College  — Captain  Jayne  — Mr.  Davis — The  Cur- 
riculum— Philosophical  Ardour  — Discussions  and  Difficulties  — 
Total  Abstinence  — The  First  Christian  Pastor  — Japanese  Impres- 
sions of  Scotland  — Increased  Demand  for  the  Christian  Scriptures. 

Nijosak  Yashiki,  Kivoto,  October  30. 

This  is  truly  delightful.  As  the  Hebrew  poets  loved 
to  sing  of  mountain-girdled  Jerusalem,  so  Japanese 
poetry  extols  Kiy6to,  which  is  encompassed,  not  with 
forest-smothered  ranges  like  those  of  Northern  Japan, 
but  with  hills  more  or  less  rugged,  wooded  here,  broken 
info  grey  peaks  there,  crimson  with  maples,  or  dark  with 
pines,  great  outbreaks  of  yellowish  rock  giving  warmth 
and  variety,  and  the  noble  summit  of  Hiyeizan  crowning 
the  mountain  wall  which  bounds  the  city  on  the  north. 
On  fine  days,  when  the  sun  rises  in  pink  and  gold,  and 
sets  in  violet  and  ruddy  orange,  these  mountains  pass 
through  colours  which  have  no  names,  the  higher  ranges 
beyond  the  Gulf  of  Osaka  look  faintly  through  a veil  of 
delicious  blue,  and  I grudge  the  radiant  liours  passing, 
because  rain  and  mist  persistently  return  to  dim  the 
picture.  There  is  a pleasure  in  being  able  to  agree  cor- 
dially with  every  one,  and  every  one  loves  Kiyoto. 

I came  here  a fortnight  ago  with  Mrs.  Gulick,  intend- 
ing to  spend  two  or  three  days  alone  in  a yadoya^  but  on 
arriving  found  that  it  had  been  arranged  that  I should 
be  received  here,  where  I have  spent  a fortnight  delight- 


230 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


fully,  seeing  a great  many  of  the  sights  with  my  hostess, 
and  others  with  Mr.  Noguchi,  an  English-speaking  Jap- 
anese, deputed  by  the  Governor  to  act  as  my  cicerone. 

We  travelled  third  class,  as  I was  most  anxious  to 
see  how  the  “ common  people  ” behaved.  The  carriage 
was  not  divided  higlier  than  the  shoulders,  and  was  at 
onC'S  completely  filled  witli  Japanese  of  the  poorest  class. 
The  journey  lasted  three  hours,  and  I unweariedly  ad- 
mired the  courtesy  of  the  people  to  each  other  and  to 
us,  and  their  whole  behaviour.  It  was  beautiful  — so 
well  bred  and  kindly,  such  a contrast  to  what  one  woTild 
probably  have  seen  near  great  seaport  cities  at  home ; 
and  the  Japanese,  like  the  Americans,  respect  them- 
selves and  their  neighbours  by  travelling  in  decent  and 
cleanly  clothing.  Respect  to  age  and  blindness  came  out 
very  prettily  on  the  journey.  Our  best  manners  fall 
short  of  theirs  in  grace  and  kindliness.  It  is  quite 
a mistake  always  to  travel  first  class,  for  then  one  only 
hears  the  talk  of  foreigners,  which  is. apt  to  be  vapid 
and  stale. 

An  hour’s  journey  took  us  to  6saka ; more  third  class 
cars,  filled  with  passengers,  were  attached ; we  steamed 
off  again,  the  hills  drew  nearer  to  each  other ; we  crossed 
several  rivers  down  which  boats  with  mat  sails  were 
dropping  with  the  current,  saw  the  rapid  Yodo,  thought 
of  Francis  Xavier,  and  as  pagodas  and  temple  roofs  ap- 
peared among  the  trees  the  train  pulled  up  in  a trim, 
prosaic  station,  where  hundreds  of  Jcuruma-vmmeTS 
clamoured  for  our  custom  ; and,  chafing  at  the  incongru- 
ity and  profanation  of  a railway  station  in  this  historic 
capital,  I realised  in  half  an  hour  that  Kiy6to  is  unlike 
the  other  cities  of  Japan.  It  is  the  home  of  art,  given 
up  to  beauty,  dress,  and  amusement;  its  women  are 
pretty,  their  coiffures  and  girdles  are  bewitching,  sur- 
prises of  brio*ht  colour  lurk  about  their  attire ; the  chil- 


AMERICAN  MISSION  SCHOOL. 


231 


dren  are  pictures,  tliere  is  music  eveiywhere  ; beautiful 
tea-houses  and  [)lcasure-grounds  abound,  and  besides  all 
this,  the  city  is  completely  girdled  by  a number  of  the 
grandest  temples  in  Japan,  with  palaces  and  palace  gar- 
dens of  singular  loveliness  on  the  slopes  of  its  purple 
hills. 

This  place  is  the  American  Mission  School  for  girls, 


THE  UOKKUliADO. 


a very  large  semi-Japanese  house,  Avith  glass  slides 
instead  of  s/wy/,  and  without  amado^  whicli  makes  it 
very  cold.  It  is  built  on  the  site  of  the  yashiki  of  a huge 
or  noble  of  the  Mikado’s  court,  and  is  in  a spacious  en- 
closure, with  tem[)le  grounds  behind  it,  and  the  SAVCct- 
toned  bells  of  many  temples  make  the  hours  musical  by 
night  and  day.  There  is  room  for  fifty  girls,  but  the 


232 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


number  is  limited  to  eighteen  at  present,  because  Miss 
Starkwether,  the  lady  principal,  is  alone,  and  seems 
likely  to  remain  without  American  assistance.  This 
school  gives  an  industrial  training,  and  Miss  Stark- 
wether is  most  conscientiously  anxious  that  the  girls 
should  attend  strictly  to  the  rules  of  Japanese  etiquette 
and  good  breeding. 

Tills  mission,  in  this  rigidly  secluded  city,  is  a most 
interesting  one,  for  it  has  been  brought  about  mainly 
by  Japanese.  If  you  have  read  my  letters  carefully, 
you  will  long  have  known  that  no  foreigners,  unless  in 
Japanese  employment,  can  live  outside  of  treaty  limits. 
In  this  case  a Japanese  Company,  consisting  of  one 
Christian  Japanese,  and  two  who  are  not  Christians, 
holds  the  college  and  school  property,  and  employs 
as  teachers,  under  a civil  contract,  Mr.  Davis,  Mr. 
l^earned,  and  Miss  Starkwether,  wlio,  as  its  servants, 
have  obtained  permits  to  live  here  for  five  years.  The 
governor  of  the  city  is  opposed  strongly  to  Cliristian- 
ity,  and  permits  of  residence  have  been  refused  to  the 
two  ladies  who  were  to  assist  in  the  girls’  school. 

Close  by  is  the  Kiyoto  College,  the  most  interesting 
feature  of  mission  work  in  Japan.  The  coUege  came 
about  ill  this  way.  In  Higo  province,  in  the  island  of 
Kiushiu,  there  is  a Government  school,  in  which  an 
American,  Captain  Jayne,  who  was  really  a teacher  of 
military  tactics,  taught  science  in  Englisli  for  five 
years,  liis  pupils  being  young  men  of  the  sainurai 
class,  many  of  whom  intended  to  enter  the  army. 
Under  his  influence  about  forty  of  these  became 
Christians,  and  anxious  to  spread  Christianity  in 
Japan.  Some  of  them  were  much  opposed,  and  even 
turned  adrift  by  their  parents,  but,  remaining  stead- 
fast, desired  theological  instruction,  and  this  Japanese 
company,  assisted  by  Americans,  bought  this  ground 


THE  CURRICULUM. 


233 


and  established  the  college.  There  are  over  100  youths 
in  it  now,  60  of  whom  are  Christians,  and  between  40 
and  50  are  studying  for  the  Christian  ministry.  Though 
the  object  of  tlie  college  is  a Clmstian  one,  attendance 
at  the  morning  prayers  is  not  compulsory,  neither  is 
the  receiving  of  religious  instruction.  Practically, 
however,  few  of  the  students  reject  either. 

Mr.  Davis,  the  liead,  is  genial,  enthusiastic,  vehement, 
and,  what  is  so  rare  in  this  day,  a firm  believer  in  the 
truth  of  what  he  teaches.  He  is  sanguine  regarding 
the  spread  of  Christianity  in  Japan,  and  his  students 
imbibe  something  of  his  hopeful  spirit.  He  distin- 
guished himself  in  the  American  war,  and  a soldierly 
frankness  and  spii-it  are  so  blended  with  a very  earnest 
Christianity,  that  his  military  rank  clings  to  him,  and 
he  is  often  called  “Colonel  Davis.”  Mr.  Learned,  a 
very  silent  but  scholarly  man,  is  his  coadjutor,  and 
Mr.  Neesima,  a Japanese,  at  present  the  only  ordained 
Japanese  pastor,  and  some  younger  men,  assist.  The 
course  is  very  extensive,  extending  over  five  years, 
and  the  theological  students  are  anxious  to  increase 
it  to  six ! The  ordinary  course  includes  Japanese, 
reading,  spelling,  language  lessons,  international  and 
common  school  geography,  international  arithmetic, 
written  arithmetic,  algebra,  general  and  Japanese  his- 
tory,  geometry,  natural  philosophy,  chemistry,  physi- 
ology, rhetoric,  with  Japanese  and  English  composi- 
tion and  declamation,  and  a course  of  Biblical  study. 
The  theological  course  includes  mental  and  moral 
philosophy,  saered  geography,  theology,  homiletics, 
pastoral  theology,  and  church  history,  with  classes  on 
prophecy  and  the  Epistles.  The  weakness  in  the 
teaching  staff  is  obvious,  but  permits  have  been  ap- 
plied for  for  two  more  foreign  teachers,  and  in  the 
meantime,  by  energy  and  enthusiasm,  Mr.  Davis  gets 
the  work  carried  on. 


234 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


For  several  mornings  I have  gone  to  the  college  to 
hear  some  of  the  classes  taught.  The  first  day  I 
arrived  at  the  end  of  morning  prayers,  alid  was  sur- 
prised to  see  how  very  few  decline  either  the  prayers 
or  the  religious  instruction.  All  my  acquaintances 
among  the  Tokiyo  teachers  speak  of  the  good  con- 
duct, courtesy,  docility,  and  appetite  for  severe  and 
continued  study  which  characterise  their  students, 
and  it  is  just  the  same  here.  I pity  the  mstructors 
who  have  to  deal  off-hand  with  the  difficulties  of  these 
earnest  youths,  many  of  whose  questions  shoAV  them  to 
be  deep  thinkers,  and  indisposed  to  accept  anything  on 
trust,  or  to  pass  over  tlie  most  trivial  matter  without 
understanding  it.  Their  absorption  in  study  is  so  com- 
plete that  tliey  never  even  look  at  me.  I find  the  men- 
tal and  moral  philosophy  classes  peculiarly  interesting, 
these  being  subjects  on  which  the  young  men  are 
keenly  alive,  and  thought  in  these  directions  is  greatly 
stimulated  by  the  extensive  circulation  of  the  works  of 
Mill,  Herbert  Spencer,  and  Comte  ; wliile  the  researches 
and  speculations  of  Darwin  and  Huxley  tend  to  inten- 
sify the  interest  in  a special  direction.  The  students, 
as  a whole,  are  remarkably  ugly,  and  it  is  curious  to 
see  their  earnest,  thoughtful  faces,  several  of  them 
with  spectacles,  drinking  in  thoughtfully  and  critically 
the  philosophy  of  Sir  W.  Hamilton,  an  alien  pliilosophy 
ill  an  alien  tongue. 

]\lr.  Davis  lectures  for  half  an  hour,  and  in  the 
]-emaining  half  the  students  question  him  and  state 
their  difficulties  in  English.  One  of  their  questions, 
or  rather  difficulties,  as  to  the  possibility  of  conceiving 
of  colour  without  form  has  taken  up  a great  part  of 
two  mornings.  Obviously  they  decline  to  accept  any- 
thing either  from  teacher  or  class-book  Avithout  under- 
standing it.  Many  of  their  questions  are  carefully  pre- 


PHlLOSOPmCAL  ABPOUE. 


235 


pared,  and  are  very  tough.  There  is  less  enthusiasm, 
as  is  natural,  in  the  Church  History  class.  It  must 
discourage  these  neophytes  to  find  that  Christianity  was 
scarcely  brighter  or  purer  as  it  neared  its  source,  and 
that  its  history  is  full  of  wrangling  and  bitterness.  It 
was  odd  to  hear  the  differences  between  the  Jesuits  and 
the  Jansenists  discussed  in  Japan,  and  to  notice  the 
intense  interest  which  the  students  showed  in  anything 
which  bore,  even  remotely,  on  the  special  tenets  of  Cal- 
vin. This  morning  one  of  the  classes  was  a debat- 
ing-club  rather  than  a class,  the  subject  started  be- 
ing, “ Whether  the  eye  furnishes  us  with  facts,  or  only 
with  data  from  which  we  elaborate  facts,”  and  the 
students  were  prepared  wdth  quotations  from  Reid, 
Stewart,  Brown,  and  Hamilton.  In  the  next  class  a 
student  was  called  upon  to  give  the  distinctive  features 
of  the  Baconian  teaching,  and  this  he  did  so  admirably 
and  with  such  conciseness,  that  his  definition  might 
have  been  printed.  I was  very  much  interested,  also, 
with  a class  on  “the  Messianic  Psalms,”  the  seventy- 
second  being  the  subject.  The  hour  was  spent  almost 
entirely  in  the  suggestion  of  difficulties  by  the  students, 
who  failed  to  see  that  it  has  any  Messianic  reference, 
and  regarded  it  as  applicable  to  Solomon.  The}^  had 
fortified  themselves  by  a very  careful  study  of  the  Old 
Testament  in  English,  and  their  honest  difficulties  on 
this  and  other  subjects  are  far  removed  from  the  flip- 
pancy of  doubt.  Some  of  them  are  quite  new,  and 
show  very  forcibly  the  questions  which  arise  when  the 
Bible  is  presented  for  the  first  time  to  an  educated 
people ; others  might  occur  to  any  one  among  our- 
selves, such  as,  “ You  say  Christ  and  His  Father  are 
one.  Then,  when  Christ  was  on  earth,  there  was  no 
God  in  heaven;  to  whom,  then,  did  men  pray?”  and, 
“If  in  the  old  days  a pious  Jew  did  not  understand 


236 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


the  references  in  a prophecy  or  its  meaning,  would  the 
prophet  be  able  to  explain  it  ? ” 

. These  young  men  bear  their  own  expenses  and  wear 
the  Japanese  dress,  but  their  Japanese  politeness  has 
much  deteriorated,  which  is  a pity,  and  the  peculiar 
style  of  manner  and  attitude  which  we  recognise  as 
American  does  not  sit  well  upon  them.  They  are  an 
earnest  body  of  students,  their  moral  tone  is  very  high, 
they  all  abstain  from  sake.,  they  are  all  heartily  con- 
vinced of  the  truth  of  Christianity,  they  are  anxious 
to  be  furnished  with  every  weapon  of  attack  against 
the  old  heathenism  and  the  new  philosophies,  and  they 
mean  to  spend  their  lives  in  preaching  Christianity. 
Several  of  them  already  preach  in  the  vacation,  and 
just  now,  one,  named  Hongma,  is  meeting  with  singular 
success  at  Hikone  on  Lake  Biwa,  the  changed  lives  of 
some  of  the  converts  being  matter  of  notoriety.  It  is  to 
such  men  as  these  that  the  conversion  of  Japan  will  be 
owing  if  their  sanguine  views  are  realised;  but  who 
can  say  what  the  Japanese  church  of  the  future  will 
be,  or  whether  its  teachings  will  be  in  accordance  with 
those  of  any  of  our  creeds  ? 

The  practical  sagacity  with  which  the  Americans 
manage  their  missions  is  worthy  of  notice.  So  far  from 
seeking  for  a quantity  of  converts,  they  are  mainly  so- 
licitous for  quality.  They  might  indeed  baptize  hun- 
dreds where  they  are  content  with  tens.  [The  same 
remark  applies  to  Dr.  Palm  and  the  missionaries  of  the 
C.M.S.  at  Hakodate  and  Niigata.]  There  are  hundreds 
of  men  and  women  scattered  throughout  this  neighbour- 
hood who  are  practically  Christians,  who  even  meet  to- 
gether to  read  the  Bible,  and  who  subscribe  for  Christian 
objects,  but  have  never  received  baptism.  Two  matters 
test  the  sincerity  of  would-be  converts.  The  first  is 
that  they  are  expected  to  build  their  own  churches,  sup- 


“ TOTAL  abstinence:^ 


237 


port  tlieir  own  pastors,  and  sustain  their  own  poor,,  and 
the  next,  that  abstinence  from  sake^  though  not  an  arti- 
cle of  membership,  is  tacitly  required,  the  missionaries 
of  tlie  American  Board  being,  without  an  exception, 
rigid  “teetotallers.”  Sake  enters  so  largely  into  all 
social  customs  and  ceremonials  that  the  abandonment 
of  it  on  the  part  of  the  converts  involves  a nearly  com- 
plete social  separation  from  their  heathen  friends.  You 
will  remember  the  important  part  which  sake  played  in 
the  marriage  ceremony  at  Kubota,  of  which,  mdeed, 
tlie  formal  drinking  of  twenty-seven  cups  of  it  con- 
stituted the  obvious  part.  The  Kobe  Christians  have 
so  altogether  broken  with  the  old  usage  that  recently 
their  marriages  have  been  celebrated  by  a religious  ser- 
vice at  church,  the  legal  registration  being  in  the  office 
of  the  Koclid^  and  sake  has  been  altogether  banished 
from  the  marriage-feast.  The  Kobe  church,  just  opened, 
cost  its  350  members  915  dollars.'  They  pay  their  pas- 
tor, provide  dispensary  medicines  for  those  of  their  num- 
ber who  are  too  poor  to  pay  for  them,  and  compensate 
such  of  their  members  as  are  too  poor  to  abstain  from 
Sunday  work  for  their  loss  of  a day’s  wages.  The  mak- 
ing the  congregations  self-supporting,  and  training  the 
Japanese  Christians  to  independence,  is  part  of  tlie 
work  of  all  the  American  missionaries.  Probably,  after 
a time,  when  the  number  of  converts  is  largely  in- 
creased, they  may  evolve  both  a theology  and  a churcli 
order  which  will  surprise  their  teachers.  I have  had 
several  interesting  conversations  with  some  of  the  stu- 
dents who  speak  English  well,  and  I gather  from  them 
that  they  earnestly  desire  to  establish  a national  church, 
not  altogether  on  the  lines  of  the  pattern  supplied  to 
them;  and  it  is  not  impossible  that  in  religion,  as  in 
other  matters,  the  foreigners  may  first  be  used,  and 
tlien  be  dispensed  with.  In  the  meantime,  the  progress. 


238 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


slow  as  it  is,  which  Clmstianity  is  making  among  tlie 
upper  classes,  is  very  interesting,  and  the  interest  is 
focussed  among  these  5^oung  men. 

Yesterday  evening,  after  a delightful  interview  with 
Akamatz,  the  most  influential  priest  of  the  Monto  sect 
of  Buddhists,  I went  to  tea  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Neesima 
in  their  pleasant  Japanese  house.  The  tea  was  on  a 
table,  we  sat  on  chairs,  and  there  was  no  difference  be- 
tween the  meal  and  one  at  a foreign  house  except  for 
the  exquisitely  beautiful  porcelain  on  the  table,  some 
of  it  old  Satsuma.  Such  treasures  at  home  would  be 
locked  up  in  cabinets.  Mr.  Neesima  is  a samurai.  He 
is  a Christian  pastor,  ordained  in  Am.erica,  and  teaches 
natural  philosophy,  etc.,  in  the  Kiy6to  College.  He 
wears  a European  dress,  and  having  been  abroad  for 
many  years,  knows  how;  to  wear  it.  His  wife  teaches 
needlework  in  the  girls’  home,  and  dresses  as  a Japan- 
ese. Mr.  N.’s  study  is  just  like  a literary  man’s  room 
at  home,  with  its  walls  well  covered  witli  English  and 
American  editions  of  our  standard  works  in  several  de- 
partments. He  has  relations  in  very  influential  pos^ 
tions,  and  has  himself  served  the  Government  abroad. 
He  was  brought  up  a Shintoist,  and  as  he  grew  up  be- 
came an  atheist.  Having  received  the  best  education 
which  could  be  got,  he  went  to  T6kiy6  to  learn  Dutch, 
in  order  that  he  might  visit  America,  and  study  naviga- 
tion and  foreign  shipbuilding,  with  the  \dew  of  intro- 
ducing the  latter  trade  into  Japan,  whose  prosperity, 
even  then,  was  very  dear  to  him.  In  T6kiy6  he  saw 
some  Christian  tracts  in  Chinese,  and  learned  from  them 
the  r.otion  of  a Creator  with  claims  on  all  His  creatures. 
With  the  strong  sense  of  filial  duty  in  which  the  Japan- 
ese are  brought  up,  the  decided  opposition  of  his  par- 
ents had  hindered  him  from  leaving  home,  but  he 
became  convinced  that  if  the  Christian  God  had  indeed 


TUE  FIliST  CnBISTlAN  PASTOH. 


239 


created  him,  He  had  a prior  claim  to  his  obedience,  and 
that  duty  compelled  him  to  go  and  strive  to  advance 
the  prosperity  of  his  country,  which  he  felt  must  be 
very  dear  to  the  Creator. 

At  that  time  Japanese  were  prohibited  from  leaving 
Japan,  and  a penalty  of  death  [practically  only  impris- 
onment] awaited  the  disobedient  on  their  return,  though 
it  was  not  likely  to  be  inflicted  on  any  one  who  should 
l)ring  back  a valuable  art.  With  the  object  of  learn- 
ing Christianity  and  visiting  America,  Mr.  N.  went  to 
Vezo,  but  after  managing  to  get  on  board  a ship  bound 
for  Cliina,  found,  to  his  disappointment,  tliat  tlie  Ameri- 
can captain  knew  nothing  about  religion.  On  landing 
in  China  he  sold  his  two  swords,  bought  a New  Testa- 
ment, obtained  a considerable  intellectual  acquaintance 
with  Cliristianity,  and  on  the  long  voyage  to  Boston, 
•icquired  English,  which  he  speaks  witli  considerable 
freedom  and  vigour.  In  Boston  he  fell  among  people 
with  whom  Christianity  was  a life  as  well  as  a creed, 
passed  through  the  mysterious  change  known  as  “ con- 
version,” and,  under  the  power  of  the  new  impulse, 
abandoned  shipbuilding,  believing  that  he  was  bound  to 
spread  a religion  which  would  bring  a better  and  truer 
prosperity  to  his  country  than  trade,  spent  five  years 
in  studying  theology  at  Andover,  and  three  years  in  a 
scientific  course  at  Amherst,  with  a break  in  which  he 
accompanied  Mr.  Tanaka,  the  acting  iMinister  of  Edu- 
cation, to  England,  France,  Sweden,  Denmark,  Russia, 
and  Germany,  eventually  remaining  for  some  time  in 
Berlin.  On  returning  home  after  being  ordained  in 
America,  he  organised  the  company  by  which  the 
teachers  in  this  college  are  engaged,  and  devotes  him- 
self to  the  Christianising  and  elevating  of  his  country- 
men, in  the  full  belief  that  it  is  tlirough  the  first  that 
the  last  must  come.  These  are  merely  the  bald  out- 


240 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


lines  of  a most  interesting  history.  There  was  much 
that  was  singular  in^  his  adventures,  as  I have  heard 
from  others,  his  own  modesty  making  him  withhold 
some  of  the  most  interesting  events  in  his  history,  but 
I am  afraid  of  repeating  them  incorrectly,  so  I leave 
them  out.  Mr.  N.  is  a gentleman  to  begin  with,  and 
has  quiet,  easy,  courteous  manners.  He  is  a genial,  en- 
lightened Christian,  and  an  intensely  patriotic  Japanese. 
He  gives  a sad  account  of  the  lack  of  truth,  and  the 
general  corrilptioii  of  morals,  among  his  countrymen. 
He  takes  a less  hopeful  view  of  the  prospects  of  Chris- 
tianity than  his  American  colleagues,  thinks  that  there 
is  a great  unlikelihood  of  its  spreading  much  in  the 
cities,  but  hopes  for  successful  results  from  the  preach- 
ing of  the  students  in  the  country  districts.  I asked 
him  what,  in  his  opinion,  are  the  leading  faults  of  his 
countrymen,  and  he  replied  without  a moment’s  hesi- 
tation, “ Lying  and  licentiousness.”  It  is  curious  that 
two  Japanese,  holding  liigh  official  positions,  and  both 
heathen,  should  have  given  me  exactly  the  same  answer. 

I asked  him  what  made  the  greatest  impression  upon 
him  in  England,  and  he  said,  “ The  drunkenness,  and 
the  innocent  faces  of  the  children.”  The  former, 
specially  in  Scotland,  horrified  him.  He  supposed, 
from  his  New  England  experience,  that  “ Christians  ” 
did  not  put  wine  on  their  tables,  and  told  Mr.  Tanaka 
30 ; consequently,  when  Mr.  T.  was  entertained  at  a 
dinner  where  wine  played  a prominent  part,  “ho 
impposed  that  the  Scotch  were  not  Christians.”  Mr. 
Neesima  was  in  Edinburgh  at  the  time  of  the  GeneraJ 
Assemblies,  and  was  astonished  to  find  that  “a  good 
deal  of  wine  was  drunk  by  ministers  at  dinners.” 
“ Some  of  them  got  very  stupid  and  sleepy  with  it,”  he 
said ; “ I wish  they  could  know  how  sad  and  sore  my 
heart  felt  for  them.”  This  seemed  to  impress  him 


DEMAND  FOR  TUE  CHRISTIAN  SCRIPTURES.  241 


more  than  the  Commissioner’s  procession,  or  the  Free 
Assembly  in  a crowded  and  hot  debate.  He  spoke  at 
some  length  as  to  the  spread  of  the  ‘‘English  Phil- 
osophy ” among  the  educated  youth  of  Japan. 

You  know  that  only  parts  of  the  Bible  have,  as  yet, 
been  translated.  The  Old  Testament,  though  the 
translators  are  hard  at  work  upon  it,  is  not  printed, 
and  the  New  consists  of  the  four  Gospels,  the  Acts, 
Bomans,  Galatians,  Hebrews,  and  St.  John’s  Epistles. 
I wonder  what  the  effect  of  the  Mosaic  record,  and  of 
the  importance  attached  to  the  Jewish  nation,  will  be 
on  people  who  believe  Japan  the  sum  and  centre  of  all 
things  ? The  demand  for  the  books  of  the  New  Testa- 
ment is  increasing  rapidly.  Very  many  thousand  copies 
have  been  sold  during  the  last  year,  and  there  must  be 
altogether  a prodigious  number  in  cii-culation. 

I.  L.  B. 


242 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN 


THE  MONTO  SECT. 

The  Protestants  of  Buddhism  — The  “ English-Spealdng  ” Priest  — 
The  Nishi-IIonguwanji  Temple  — A Monto  Altar  — Nirvana  — 
Hid^yoslii’s  Summer  Palace  — Metempsychosis  — Buddha  as  a 
Democrat  — The  Prospects  of  Christianity  — The  Priest’s  Estimate 
of  Belief  in  England  — The  Conflict  of  Opinion  in  Japan  — A 
Question. 

NiJOSAN  YASHiKi,  KiYOTO,  November  1. 

Of  the  many  sects  and  sub-sects  into  which  Buddhism 
is  divided,  none  interests  me  so  much  as  the  Shinshiu, 
sometimes  called  the  Monto  Sect,  founded  by  Sliinran 
in  1262.  Protesting  against  celibacy,  penance,  fasting, 
pilgrimages,  nunneries,  monasteries,  cloistered  and  her- 
mit isolation  from  society,  charms,  amulets,  and  the 
reading  of  the  Scriptures  in  an  unknown  tongue,  claim- 
ing freedom  of  thought  and  action,  and  emancipation 
from  Shinto,  traditional,  and  State  influence,  and  hold- 
ing that  the  family  is  the  source  and  example  of 
purity,  Shinran  married  a noble  lady  of  Kiyoto,  and 
founded  a married  priesthood.  If  the  Monto  is  not 
the  largest  sect,  it  stands  first  in  intelligence,  influence, 
and  wealth,  it  is  putting  forth  immense  energies,  and 
has  organised  theological  schools  on  a foreign  system, 
in  which  its  acolytes  are  being  trained  in  Buddhist  and 
Western  learning  for  the  purpose  of  enabling  them  not 
only  to  resist  or  assail  both  Shint5  and  Christianity, 
but  the  corruptions  of  the  Buddhist  faith.  At  tliis 
hour  new  college  buildings  are  arising  in  Kiy6to  to  be 
splendidly  equipped  for  teaching  purposes,  and  the 


THE  **  ENGLISH-SPEAKING^^  PRIEST.  243 


plan  is  to  send  certain  of  the  young  priests  to  England 
to  learn  Sanskrit,  and  to  fortify  themselves  with  ar- 
guments against  Christianity;  and  it  is  not  in  Kiydto 
alone  that  this  vigorous  sect  is  training  a priesthood  to 
meet  the  needs  of  the  day. 

Foremost  in  this  movement,  which  has  for  its  object 
a new  reformation,  and  the  re-establishment  of  Buddh- 
ism as  a moral  power  in  Japan,  is  Akamatz,  a priest  of 
great  intellect,  high  culture,  indomitable  energy,  wide 
popularity,  and  far-reaching  ambitions  for  the  future  of 
his  faith.  He  spent  some  years  in  England,  studying 
Sanskrit  and  Christianity,  and  is  known  to  the  Japan- 
ese in  Kiydto  as  “the  English-speaking  priest.”  Mr. 
de  Saumarez  gave  me  a letter  to  him,  and  he  wro  te  me 
a note  in  English,  asking  me  to  go  and  see  him  at  the 
Nishi-Honguwanji  temple. 

The  Monto  sect  builds  large  temples  in  the  centres 
of  great  cities,  and  often  in  pairs,  connected  by  a 
covered  corridor.  These  are  the  temples  whose  huge 
sweeping  roofs  and  vast  enclosures  near  the  railway 
station  impressed  me  on  the  day  of  my  arrival,  and  not 
less  impressive  were  they  to-day  as  I approached  them 
in  my  favourite  huruma  through  streets  of  shrine  and 
idol  makers,  in  whose  shops  the  gorgeous  paraphernalia 
of  a gorgeous  worship  make  a resplendent  display. 
The  comely  walls  with  heavily  tiled  roofs,  the  broad, 
granite-lined  water-channels  outside,  along  which  the 
water  ripples  brightly,  the  massive  gateways  Avhich 
give  access  to  the  temple-courts,  the  gardens  with  their 
bridges,  artificial  lakes  and  islands,  the  luxurious  pleas- 
ure-grounds of  the  summer  palace  of  an  ancient  Shdgun, 
and  the  imposing  group  formed  by  the  twin  temples, 
with  their  background  of  enormous  trees,  are  among 
the  vastest  sights  of  Kiydto. 

The  sky  was  murky  and  threatening,  a drift  of  brown 


244 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


cloud  lay  across  Hiyeizan,  occasional  gusts  of  wind 
lifted  the  sand  in  the  temple-courts,  and  the  gloom 
seemed  to  suit  these  grand  structures  of  an  ancient 
faith.  In  the  stately  courts  there  were  neither  priests 
nor  worshippers,  and  I shivered  as  I crossed  them, 
guided  by  my  ^wrwwa-runner,  to  whom  the  utterance 
of  the  simple  word  Akamatz  conveyed  my  wishes.  He 
deposited  me  at  the  side  of  the  great  temple,  where  a 
flight  of  steps  led  up  to  a small  room  where  two  priests 
were  writing,  and  there,  taking  off  my  boots,  I waited 
for  the  “ English-speaking  priest.”  I was  disappointed 
with  his  appearance.  He  is  barely  five  feet  high,  and 
decidedly  ill-favoured,  with  hair  about  an  inch  long, 
very  bristly,  a bristly  black  mustache,  and  bristly 
scanty  beard.  His  brow,  however,  is  fine,  and  his  eyes 
are  bright  and  keen.  He  wore  a cassock  of  figured 
blue  brocade,  a deep  chasuble  of  figured  brown  silk 
grenadine,  and  a stole  of  crimson  cloth  of  gold,  and 
carried  a brown  rosary  in  his  left  hand.  In  describing 
Buddhist  vestments,  it  is  impossible  to  avoid  drifting 
into  the  use  of  terms  by  which  the  vestments  in  the 
Roman  Church  are  known.  Akamatz  is  very  gentle- 
manly and  courteous,  speaks  English  remarkably  well, 
with  great  vigour  of  expression,  and  talked,  as  it 
seemed  to  me,  with  surprising  frankness.  He  took  me 
over  the  temples,  and  showed  me  all  that  was  to  be 
seen.  My  visit  lasted  for  three  hours,  and  I would 
gladly  have  made  it  longer,  J was  so  deeply  interested 
with  his  mind  and  conversation. 

This  great  temple  of  Nishi-Honguwanji  may  be  le- 
garded  as  the  cathedral  of  the  Monto  sect,^  and  the 

1 The  statements  concerning  the  Monto  sect  and  its  tenets,  which 
are  given  in  this  Letter,  rest  on  the  authority  of  Mr.  Akamatz.  1 have 
not  met  a European  whose  information  on  the  subject  is  sufficient  to 
enable  me  to  judge  of  their  accuracy  ; but  the  character  of  this  priest 
stands  very  high,  and  there  is  no  reason  to  suppose  that  he  misinformed 
mo. 


A MON  TO  ALTAR, 


245 


Abljot  or  High  Priest  and  its  other  dignitaries  repre- 
sent Bishop,  Dean,  and  Chapter.  They  are  at  the 
head  of  10,000  Monto  temples,  whose  financial  and 
ecclesiastical  concerns  they  manage,  and  whose  patron- 
age they  dispense.  There  are  100  priests  here,  besides 
acolytes,  but  much  of  their  business  is  secular.  They 
look  very  unlike  ordinary  bonzes,'^  because  of  their 
hair  and  beards,  and  there  is  little  of  the  stupid  or 
sanctimonious  expression  which  is  usual  on  the  faces 
of  Buddhist  priests.  Their  creed  does  not  require  any- 
thing like  asceticism  or  separation  from  the  duties  and 
delights  of  other  men,  and  in  so  much  is  healthier  and 
more  human. 

We  walked  round  the  outside  of  the  public  rooms, 
which  are  numerous,  large,  and  lofty,  by  a deep  corridor, 
from  which  we  saw  the  interior,  through  the  open  shoji, 
and  the  dull  gleam  of  rich  dead  gold  hinted  of  the 
artistic  treasures  within.  For  in  these  dimly-lighted 
rooms,  most  of  which  have  been  set  apart  for  guests  for 
centuries,  there  are  paintings  nearly  300  years  old,  and 
the  walls  are  either  panelled  in  gold,  or  are  formed  of 
fusuma,,  heavily  overlaid  with  gold-leaf,  on  which,  in  the 
highest  style  of  Japanese  art,  are  depicted  various  sacred 
emblems  — the  lotus,  the  stork,  the  peony,  and  the 
Cleyera  Japonica  — executed  very  richly  and  beauti- 
fully with  slightly  conventionalised  fidelity  to  nature. 
From  thence  we  passed  into  the  great  temple,  the  sim- 
ple splendour  of  which  exceeds  anything  I have  j^et 
seen.  The  vast  oblong  space  has  a flat  roof,  supported 
on  many  circular  pillars  of  finely-planed  wood ; a third 
part  is  railed  off  for  the  sanctuary ; the  panels  of  the 
folding-doors  and  the  panels  at  the  back  are  painted 
with  flowers  on  a gold  ground;  behind  a black  lacquer 
altar  stands  a shrine  of  extreme  splendour,  gleaming  in 
the  coloured  twilight ; but  on  the  high  altar  itself  tliere 


246 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


were  only  two  candlesticks,  two  vases  of  pure  white 
chrysanthemums,  and  a glorious  bronze  incense  burner. 
An  incense  burner  was  the  only  object  on  the  low  altar, 
Besides  these  there  were  six  black  lacquer  desks,  on 
each  desk  a roll  of  litanies,  and  above  the  altar  six 
lamps  burned  low.  It  was  imposingly  magnificent. 

As  liaodsome  as  a Monto  altar,”  is  a proverbial  say- 
ing. This  sect  rejects  images  and  all  sensuous  para- 
phernalia addressed  to  the  popular  taste,  and,  according 
to  Mr.  Akamatz,  teaches  “ the  higher  life  ” by  the  rule 
of  tlie  Scriptures,  which,  written  in  characters  of  the 
unlearned,  and  in  the  tongue  of  the  common  people, 
‘‘  are  able  to  make  them  wise  ” unto  a salvation  which 
can  only  be  obtained  by  purity  and  righteousness. 
Furthermore,  it  teaches  that  the  maxims  and  doctrines 
promulgated  by  the  other  sects  are  corruptions  of  the 
truth ; that  celibate  vows,  fasting,  and  abstinence  from 
the  moderate  use  of  the  good  things  of  life,  are  inven- 
tions of  the  vanity  or  superstition  of  men ; that  a mar- 
ried priesthood  is  the  best  conservator  of  the  purity  of 
society ; and  that  priestcraft,  in  the  ordinary  sense,  is  a 
delusion  and  a snare.  Their  sons,  if  not  by  birth,  at  all 
events  by  adoption  from  the  family  of  another  priest, 
succeed  them,  and  formerly,  in  time  of  war,  they  have 
laid  aside  their  robes,  put  on  armour,  and  formed  them- 
selves into  battalions. 

We  passed  by  a covered  bridge  into  the  other  temple, 
in  which  the  principal  object  is  a gorgeous  slirine,  in 
which  Sakya-muni  stands  with  his  hands  folded,  looking 
:almiy  down  upon  flowers,  candles,  and  an  incense 
burner,  as  calmly  as  lie  looks  upon  thousands  of  wor- 
shippers on  festal  days,  the  spiritual  children  of  those 
who,  for  2000  years,  have  called  him  blessed.  In  front 
of  the  altar  there  was  a stand  with  four  MS.  rolls  upon 
it,  “ the  original  words  of  Buddha.”  Besides  this  there 


NIRVANA. 


247 


was  nothing,  and  in  the  vast,  dim  temple,  only  a man 
and  woman  knelt  at  the  sanctuary  rails,  telling  their 
beads  with  a look  of  extreme  devotion,  and  the  low 
murmur,  amida  BuUu^'  thrilled  plaintively 

through  the  stillness;  and  it  was  as  thrilling  to  hear 
the  priest,  in  presence  of  the  symbols  of  his  faith,  dis- 
coursing on  its  mysteries. 

He  either  could  not  or  did  not  care  to  answer  many 
of  my  questions  regarding  the  symbolisms  of  ritual. 
He  said  he  was  not  acquainted  with  the  details  of  the 
other  sects.  I asked  the  meaning  of  the  universal  re- 
currence of  the  lotus.  “ The  lotus,”  he  said,  “ is  purity ; 
with  its  fair  blossom  it  grows  out  of  slime  and  mud,  so 
righteousness  grows  out  of  the  filth  of  the  human 
heart.”  As  to  the  differences  among  the  Buddhist 
sects,  he  said,  “Their  doctrines  differ  as  widely  from 
each  other  as  do  those  of  Christians ; but  as  you  all 
believe  in  one  God  and  Chri^^t,  so  all  Buddhists  agree 
in  reverence  for  Amida,  and  in  belief  in  immortality 
and  in  the  transmigration  of  souls.”  He  said,  “You 
aie 'limited  by  your  ‘ Creator ; ’ we  do  not  believe  in  any 
creator,  but  that  spirit  (eternal)  produced  atoms,  which, 
by  what  in  English  you  would  call  ‘ fortuitous  combina- 
tion,’ produce  all  we  see.  Buddha  is  not,  as  your  God, 
supreme,  but  above  all.  When  you  die  you  do  not  be- 
come gods,  but  we  become  Buddhas.”  I said  that  I 
saw  bronze  and  stone  Buddhas  everywhere,  with  faces 
on  which  stagnation  is  depicted,  and  from  which  all 
human  emotion  is  banished ; Buddha  is  not  sleeping  or 
waking  or  thinking,  he  exists  only.  “Even  so,”  he 
answered;  “fAe  end  of  righteousness  is  rest.  Nirvana 
cannot  be  easily  explained.  You  ask.  Is  it  absorption  ? 
T answer  Yes  and  No.  It  may  be  termed  absorption, 
yet  not  altogether  so ; individuality  may  cease,  but 
individual  consciousness  may  remain  latent  — the  eter- 


248 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


nal  ages  are  long.  You  have  not  in  your  language  the 
words  by  which  I could  speak  more  clearly  of  Nirvana. 
Misery  is  the  very  essence  of  all  life.  To  attain  Nirva- 
na is  to  be  delivered  from  the  merciless  necessity  of 
being  born  again,  to  reach  a state  ‘in  wliich  there  are 
neither  ideas,  nor  a consciousness  of  the  absence  of  ideas.’ 
This  is  life  in  death,  or  death  in  life ; English  has  no 
words  for  it.”  I asked  him  what  the  objects  of  the 
Buddliist  faith  are,  and  he  answered  iinhesitatingly, 
“To  make  men  pure,  and  to  keep  alive  belief  in  the 
immortality  of  the  soul,  which  is  the  basis  of  all  right- 
eousness. Buddha  is  incarnate  in  all  good  deeds.  If 
I am  indolent  and  stay  in  my  room,  I am  myself ; if  1 
rise  and  preach  righteousness,  I am  Buddha.” 

Speaking  on  such  themes  in  the  temples  and  galler- 
ies, I hardly  noticed  where  we  were  tending,  till,  cross- 
ing a bridge  and  passing  through  some  buildings,  I 
found  that  we  were  in  the  most  exquisite  garden  tliat 
I have  seen  in  Japan,  a fairy-like  creation,  small,  but 
seeming  large,  and  well  worthy  to  be  the  retreat  of  one 
of  the  greatest  of  the  Sh6guns.  There  were  fountains 
and  a small  lake,  over  whose  clear  waters,  through 
which  large  gold-fish  were  glancing,  liung  the  fantastic 
balconies  of  Hideyoshi’s  summer  palace,  an  irregular 
three-storeyed  building  of  most  picturesque  appearance. 
Small  stone  bridges  cross  the  water,  winding  paths  in 
deep  shade  lead  to  unexpected  summer-houses,  enor- 
mous trees  give  stateliness,  the  huge  roofs  of  the  tem- 
j)1es  rise  above  the  shady  foreground,  scarlet  maples  are 
reflected  scarlet  in  the  motionless  water,  the  quaint 
trunks  and  dark  green  fronds  of  the  cycas  rise  out  of 
rocky  islets ; and  the  whole  was  solemnised  by  a dark 
November  sky.  We  passed  the  end  of  the  lake  on  a 
stone  terrace  and  entered  the  Shogun’s  retreat,  whicli 
is  fantastically  arranged  with  steep,  narrow  staircases, 


niDEYOSni^S  SUMMER  PALACE. 


249 


nefarious-looking  roomlets^  irregular  balconies,  large 
rooms  with  deep  recesses,  and  a small,  singular-looking 
chamber,  used  for  the  mysterious  rites  of  cJia-no-^u,  or 
tea-meetings.  Two  attendants,  silent  like  all  else,  were 
waiting  to  draw  aside  the  shoji,  that  I might  see  the 
different  beautiful  views  on  the  different  storeys,  the 
most  beautiful,  to  my  thinking,  being  the  enchanted- 
looking  garden,  with  the  grand  curved  roofs  of  the  tem- 
ples above  the  stately  trees,  and  the  blotches  of  scailet 
in  the  lake  below. 

Tea  and  bonbons  were  served  on  a gold  lacquer  tray 
in  antique  Kaga  cups,  by  these  noiseless  attendants,  in 
the  large  room  of  the  summer  palace,  with  its  dark 
posts  and  ceiling  and  dull  gleams  of  dead  gold,  the 
little  light  there  was  falling  on  the  figure  of  the  priest 
in  his  vestments,  as  he  still  discoursed  on  his  faith.' 
The  solemnity  was  nearly  oppressive,  and  the  deserted 
palace,  the  representative  of  a dead  faith  (for  dead  it 
surely  is),  the  deepening  gloom,  the  sighing  of  a doleful 
wind  among  the  upper  branches,  the  rattling  of  the 
shoji^  the  low  boom  of  the  temple  drum  in  the  distance, 
and  the  occasional  sound  of  litanies  wafted  on  the  wail- 
ing breeze,  wrought  on  me  so  like  a spell,  that  I felt  as 
if  I were  far  from  the  haunts  of  living  men.  It  was 
not  this  alone,  but  I was  entangled  in  a web  of  meta- 
physics, or  lost  in  chaos  where  nothing  had  form,  and 
birth  and  death  succeeded  each  other  through  endless 
eternities,  life  with  misery  for  its  essence,  death  only 
the  portal  to  re-birth  into  new  misery,  and  so  on  in 
interminable  cycles  of  unsatisfying  change,  till  at  last 
righteousness  triumphs,  and  the  soul  being  born  into 
misery  no  more,  reaches  its  final  goal  in  practical  anni- 
liilation. 

Mr.  Akamatz  said  a great  deal  about  transmigration, 
in  which  he  avowed  his  implicit  belief  as  an  essential 


250 


UNBEATEN  TBACES  IN  JAPAN. 


article  of  faith.  I asked  him  if  the  pure,  on  d}*ing, 
pass  into  Nirvana,  which  appears  to  me  but  a synonym 
for  negation.,  a conception  impossible  to  the  western 
mind.  ‘‘Where  are  the  pure?”  he  replied.  Then  I 
asked  him  if  those  who  die  unrighteous  pass  into  the 
divers  torments  figured  on  the  kakemonos  of  the  Chi- 
onin  temple  for  a period  of  purification?  “No,”  he 
said,  “their  spirits  undergo  metempsychosis,  they  are 
re-born  into  the  bodies  of  animals.”  I suggested  that 
this  shut  out  all  hope  of  purification,  as  they  were  then 
out  of  reach  of  all  teaching  and  good  influences.  “ Not 
so,  for  Buddha  becomes  incarnate  in  other  animals,  and 
conveys  to  them  such  teaching  as  they  can  receive.  If 
the  torments  of  the  Chionin  hells  are  the  end  of  all  to 
some,  who  knows?  the  eternal  ages  are  long.”  You 
cannot  imagine  the  profound  melancholy  of  this  refrain, 
which  occurred  at  least  six  times  in  the  priest's  conver- 
sation, “ long  ” in  the  dreary  past,  and  “ long  ” in  the 
dreary  future,  man  walking  “ in  a vain  show  ” through 
cycles  of  misery  to  a goal  of  annihilation.  So  have 
Sakya-muni  and  his  followers  taught  for  more  than 
2000  years,  and  so  teaches  this  most  enlightened  priest 
of  this  most  enlightened  sect,  who  having  studied  Chris- 
tianity and  the  philosophies  of  East  and  West,  has  no 
better  hope  than  “ not  to  be.” 

I asked  him  his  opinion  of  the  present  religious  state 
of  Japan,  and  after  very  much  interesting  conversation, 
he  summed  up  thus : — “ ShintOism  is  truly  the  rudest 
form  of  nature  worship,  slightly  embellished  by  Confii- 
cian  and  Buddhist  contact.  As  a religion  it  is  dead,  as 
a political  engine  it  is  failing,  it  never  had  life.  Buddh- 
ism was  once  strong,  it  is  now  weak,  it  may  or  may 
not  revive.  Its  vital  truths  — purity,  metempsychosis, 
and  immortality,  cannot  die.”  I told  him  that,  in  spite 
of  certain  superstitious  observances,  I could  not  but  re- 


TUE  PROSPECTS  OF  CHRISTIANITY. 


251 


gard  the  Japanese  as  a most  irreligious  people.  “ It  is 
so  now,”  he  said.  “ The  Confucian  philosophy  spread 
rapidly  long  ago  among  the  higher  classes,  and  edu- 
cated and  thinking  men  denied  immortality,  and  be- 
came what ’you  would  call  materialists.  Gradually 
their  unbelief  sank  downwards  through  the  Jieimin.,  and 
there  is  little  real  belief  in  Japan,  though  much  super- 
stition still  exists.”  I asked  him  if  his  sect  addressed 
itself  specially  to  the  upper  classes.  “Pure  Buddhism 
knows  no  classes,”  he  said;  “Buddha  was  what  you 
call  a democrat.  All  souls  are  equal,  all  men  by  right- 
eousness can  become  Buddhas.  Your  Christ  was  a 
democrat,  and  desired  to  make  of  men  a brotherhood, 
but  you  have  one  doctrine  for  rich  and  one  for  poor, 
and  one  church  for  rich,  into  which  poor  cannot  enter, 
and  one  for  poor,  where  you  teach  men  to  obey  the 
rich;  this  is  not  our  way.”  I asked  him  what  he 
* thought  of  the  prospects  of  Christianity  in  Japan,  and 
among  much  else  he  said,  “ There  have  been  missiona- 
ries called  Protestants  in  Japan  for  fifteen  years,  there 
are  now  over  100,  and  they  count  1600  baptized  per- 
sons. The  college  here  is  sending  out  young  samurai 
to  preach,  very  ardent,  and  well  equipped  for  teaching ; 
Christianity  may  make  great  progress  in  some  of  the 
comitry  parts  of  Japan,  for  many  are  iveary.,  weary., 

, weary.,  and  it  is  easy,  and  they  will  be  disposed  to  receive 
it  • but  not  in  the  large  towns.”  This  corresponds 
closely  with  Mr.  Neesima’s  opinion  on  the  same  subject. 
I asked  him  what  he  considered  the  most  prevalent 
“unrighteousnesses”  among  his  countrymen,  and  he 
gave  the  reply  which  I have  mentioned  as  having  been 
given  me  three  times  before,  “ truthlessness  and  licen- 
tiousness.” 

After  speaking  a great  deal  of  the  demerits  of  Chris- 
tianity, he  said  that  he  considered  that  a far  more  pow- 


252 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


erful  influence  than  it  is  now  working  in  Japan  in  “the 
English  philosophy,”  as  taught  by  Mill,  Herbert  Spen- 
cer, and  others,  while  the  scientific  writings  of  Huxley, 
and  Darwin’s  Origin  of  Species.,  are  stimulating  inqui- 
ries “ which  Christianity  cannot  answer.”  These  books 
are  translated,  and  the  higher  education,  rapidly  extend- 
ing, is  enabling  the  young  men  to  acquaint  themselves 
with  a wide  range  of  similar  works  in  English.  Besides 
this,  he  said,  there  are  English,  Scotch,  and  German 
teachers  who  assail  Christianity  openly  in  their  lec- 
tures, and  teach  an  undisguised  materialism.  “The 
Confucian  philosophy  is  being  rapidly  replaced  here  by 
your  English  philosophy,”  he  said.  “ This  philosophy  is 
threatening  your  beliefs  at  home,  your  priests  are  adapt- 
ing their  teaching,  perhaps  their  creeds,  to  it.  God  and 
immortality  are  quickly  disappearing  in  England^  so  men 
grow  more  wicked,  and  despise  your  doctrines  of  purity, 
which  are  not  consistent.  Jesus  Christ  is  first  aban- 
doned, yet  men  say  they  believe  in  God,  yet  not  as 
Creator  but  Father,  then  they  no  longer  believe  in  God. 
It  may  be  well  just  now,  but  it  will  not  be  well  soon, 
for  without  immortality  there  will  be  no  righteousness. 
In  Japan  this  philosophy  threatens  both  Buddhism  and 
Christianity;  it  is  your  own  philosophy  which  Christi- 
anity will  have  to  fight  here  among  the  educated,  and 
not  Shinto  or  Buddhism.  Buddhism  may  yet  revive  ; 
it  teaches  men  purity,  it  shows  that  the  end  of  right- 
eousness is  rest ; purity  is  the  plain  road  to  rest ; tlio 
moral  teachings  of  Buddha  are  higher  than  those  of 
( fiirist.  Christ’s  precepts  are  powerless.  Do  men  keep 
them  ill  England?”  Mr.  Akamatz  said  a great  deal 
that  was  very  interesting  regarding  the  tendencies  of 
religious  thought  in  England.  He  has  deeply  studied 
one  or  two  branches  of  our  literature,  and  is  evidently 
a deep,  though  a metaphysical,  thinker,  as  well  as  a stu- 


A QUESTION. 


253 


dent  of  Christianity.  Can  this  priest,  who  is  regarded 
as  the  ablest  and  most  enlightened  man  in  the  Buddhist 
hierarchy,  truly  believe  in  his  own  metaphysics  and  in 
the  doctrine  of  prolonged  metempsychosis? 

It  was  twilight  when  we  left  the  palace  of  Hideyoshi 
and  returned  to  the  vast,  dim  temple,  where  four  lamps, 
burning  low,  feebly  lit  the  gorgeousness  of  the  sanctu- 
ary and  the  figure  of  Buddha,  serene  for  ever  within 
his  golden  shrine.  Is  it  the  Hindu  teacher  in  his  pas- 
sionless repose,  who,  from  the  dimness  of  the  dead  ages, 
offers  men  an  immortality  of  unconsciousness,  or  is  it 
the  eternal  Son  of  God,  the  living  Brother  of  our  hu- 
manity, who  in  the  living  present  offers  to  “ the  weary  ” 
rest  and  service  in  an  endless  life,  and  fellowship  in  His 
final  triumph  over  evil,  who  shall  mould  the  religious 
future  of  Japan?  I.  L.  B. 


254 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


ARTISTIC  TASTES. 

Kiydto  Shopping  — Artistic  Patterns  — Solitude  in  Decoration  — A 
Japanese  Etagere  — Honest  Work  — Vitiation  of  Japanese  Art  — 
Kiyoto  Brocades  — The  Board  of  Industries  — The  New  Hospital. 

Nijosan  Yashiki,  Kiyoto. 

The  “ elegant  repose  ” of  Kiy6to  degenerates  into 
wearisome  dawdling  in  the  shops.  They  are  slower 
than  anywhere  else.  One  can  hardly  buy  the  merest 
trifle  in  less  than  an  hour.  Three  or  four  men  and 
sharp,  business-like  boys  squat  on  the  floor  round  a 
hihachi.,  with  two  or  three  wooden  basins  for  money, 
several  ledgers  and  ink  boxes,  and  a sorohan  or  two 
among  them.  They  offer  you  the  tahalco-hon  and  pro- 
duce tea  after  every  little  purchase  ; and  if  I go  with  a 
Japanese,  they  waste  more  time  in  asking  my  age,  in- 
come, where  my  husband  is,  if  I am  “learned,”  and 
where  I have  been. 

But  the  beauty  of  the  things  in  many  of  the  small, 
dingy  shops  is  wonderful.  Kiy6to  is  truly  the  home  of 
art.  There  are  wide  mousseline  de  laines^  with  patterns 
on  them  of  the  most  wildly  irregular  kind,  but  so  artis- 
tic in  grace  of  form  and  harmony  of  colour  that  I should 
like  to  hang  them  all  up  merely  to  -please  my  eyes. 
From  the  blaze  of  gold  and  silver  stuffs,  stiff  with  bul- 
lion, used  chiefly  for  ecclesiastical  purposes,  which  one 
sees  in  some  shops,  one  turns  for  rest  to  silk  brocades 
in  the  most  artistic  shades  of  brown,  green,  and  grey, 
with  here  and  there  a spray  or  figure  only  just  suggested 


SOLITUDE  IN  DECOBATION. 


255 


in  colour  or  silver,  and  to  silk  crepes  so  exquisitelj^  fine 
that  four  widths  at  a time  can  be  drawn  through  a fin- 
ger ring,  and  with  soft  sprays  of  flowers  or  bamboo 
thrown  on  their  soft,  tinted  grounds  with  an  apparent 
carelessness  which  produces  ravishing  effects. 

If  I have  not  written  much  about  Japanese  art,  it  is 
not  that  I do  not  enjoy  it,  but  because  the  subject  is 
almost  stale.  I see  numbers  of  objects  everywhere, 
and  especially  here,  which  give  me  great  pleasure,  and 
often  more  than  pleasure.  It  is  not  alone  the  costly 
things  which  connoisseurs  buy,  but  household  furnishings 
made  for  peasant  use,  which  are  often  faultless  in  form, 
colour,  and  general  effect.  As  on  the  altars  and  on  the 
walls  of  Japanese  houses  you  see  a single  lotus,  iris, 
peony,  or  spray  of  wistaria ; so  on  cups,  vases,  or  lacquer 
made  for  Japanese  use  the  effect  of  solitary  decoration 
is  understood,  and  repetition  is  avoided.  Thus,  a spray 
of  bamboo,  a single  stork  among  reeds,  a faint  and 
almost  shadowy  suggestion  of  a bamboo  in  faint  green 
on  grey  or  cream,  or  a butterfly  or  grasshopper  on  a 
spray  of  cherry  blossom,  is  constantly  the  sole  decora- 
tion of  a tray,  vase,  or  teapot,  thrown  on  with  apparent 
carelessness  in  some  unexpectedly  graceful  position. 
Instead  of  the  big  birds  and  trees  and  great  blotchy 
clouds  in  gold  paint,  which  disfigure  lacquer  made- for 
the  English  market,  true  Kiy5to  lacquer,  made  for  those 
who  love  it,  is  adorned  mainly  with  suggested  sprays  of 
the  most  feathery  species  of  bamboo,  or  an  indication 
of  the  foliage  of  a pine,  or  a moon  and  light  clouds,  all 
on  a ground  of  golden  mist.  There  are  few  shops 
which  have  not  on  their  floors  just  now  some  thoroughly 
enjoyed  spray  of  bamboo,  or  reddening  maple,  or  two  or 
three  chrysanthemums  in  some  exquisite  creation  of 
bronze  or  china. 

The  highest  art  and  some  unspeakably  low  things  go 


256 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


together,  but  every  Japanese  seems  born  with  a singular 
perception  of,  and  love  of  beauty  or  prettiness.  The 
hundreds  of  shops  in  Kiy6to,  in  which  numbers  of 
beautiful  objects  are  carefully  arranged,  are  bewildering. 
I long  to  buy  things  for  all  my  friends  at  home,  but 
either  they  would  despise  them,  or  huddle  them  together 
with  other  things  in  or  on  some  vile  piece  of  upholstery ! 
You  should  see  a real  Japanese  Stag  ere  of  plain  black 
lacquer  of  flawless  polish,  with  irregular  shelves  curi- 
ously arranged,  and  a very  few  real  treasures  displayed 
upon  it,  in  order  to  learn  Japanese  tastefulness. 

Inlaid  bronze,  or  bronze  with  flowers  in  silver  or  gold 
relief,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  manufactures  of 
Kiyoto.  I saw  a pair  of  vases  a foot  high  to-day  at  one 
of  the  workshops  fostered  by  the  Government,  which 
were  simply  perfect,  copied  from  one  in  the  imperial 
treasury  at  Nara.  An  English  workman  who  scamps  ” 
his  work,  and  turns  out  a piece  of  original  vulgarity,  or 
a badly  executed  imitation  of  a real  work  of  art,  should 
see  what  honest,  careful,  loving  labour  does  here  in  per- 
fection of  finish  for  one  shilling  a day.  It  is  true  that 
work  at  which  a Japanese  would  hardly  look  passes 
muster  with  foreigners.  I went  with  Mr.  Noguchi  to- 
day to  the  Awata  pottery,  where  200  men  are  employed 
in  making  a cream-coloured,  crackled  ware  for  exporta- 
tion, and  there  wasted  two  and  a half  hours  in  buying 
a tea-service,  not  only  because  tea  and  the  tahaho-hon 
were  introduced  so  often,  but  because,  being  made  for 
the  English  market,  nearly  all  the  cups  were  crowded 
with  gaudy  butterflies,  and  there  was  scarcely  a cup  f'r 
saucer  that  was  perfectly  circular. 

I cannot  join  in  the  uncritical  admiration  of  modern 
Japanese  art  which  is  fashionable  in  some  quarters.  The 
human  figure  is  always  badly  drawn,  and  the  represen- 
tations of  it  are  grotesque  and  exaggerated.  Japanese 


THE  BOABB  OF  INBUSTBIES. 


257 


sculpture  is  nearly  always  caricature,  and  even  as  such 
is  deficient  in  accuracy  and  delicacy  of  finish.  Gener- 
ally, in  their  best  modern  productions,  they  do  but  imi- 
tate themselves,  and  an  attempt  to  please  the  western 
buyer  results  in  lacquer  overburdened  with  expensive 
ornament,  gorgeous  screens  heavy  with  coarse  gilding, 
and  glaringly  incongruous  painting,  or  costly  embroider- 
ies in  silks  of  harsh,  crude  colours,  china  overloaded 
with  colour,  pattern,  and  gilding,  and  bronzes  crowded 
with  incongruous  collections  of  men  and  beasts,  all  the 
work  of  the  craftsman,  and  not  of  the  artist. 

In  order  to  correct  the  tendencies  to  imperfect  copy- 
ing, and  degradation  of  true  Japanese  art,  the  Govern- 
ment of  KiyOto  has  established  a “ Board  for  the  Pro- 
motion of  Industries,”  which  is  doing  most  praiseworthy 
work  in  raising  the  standard  of  excellence  in  silk  weav- 
ing, and  in  the  making  of  bronze,  porcelain,  and  embroi- 
dery. It  has  also  established  schools  in  which  appren- 
tices are  taught  different  trades  under  teachers  paid  by 
Government,  and  in  every  way  is  trying  to  elevate  the 
productions  of  the  native  manufacturers.  I spent  a 
very  interesting  day  with  Mr.  Noguchi  among  the 
Nishigin  silk  weavers,  and  the  bronze  and  porcelain 
makers.  There  are  silks  and  brocades  just  now  on  the 
looms  in  Nishigin  which  would  make  a Frenchman  die 
of  despair,  and  these  exquisite  productions  are  made  in 
imperfectly  lighted  and  very  small  rooms,  where  four  or 
five  weavers  at  most  are  throwing  heart  and  soul  into 
their  work.  There  was  one  brocade  for  a girdle  thirty- 
two  inches  wide,  of  rich  silk  of  a soft  grey  tint.  On  it 
were  thrown  with  artistic  grace  very  slight  sprays  of 
bamboo  in  silver,  with  their  shadows  in  a darker  shade 
of  grey  than  the  ground.  It  was  a picture  in  itself,  and 
only  one  of  several  almost  equally  beautiful.  The 
bronze  workshops,  which  turn  out  such  beautiful  and 


258 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


finished  works  of  art  as  were  sent  to  the  Paris  Exhibi- 
tion, are  no  better  than  ordinary  blacksmith’s  shops,  and 
the  appliances  are  of  the  rudest  description. 

This  same  “ Board  of  Industries  ” has  established 
female  industrial  schools,  to  one  of  which  I went  with 
Mr.  Noguchi,  and  saw  some  very  beautiful  Japanese 
rugs  being  made  to  order.  These  schools  are  of  two 
grades,  one  under  Imperial  patronage  for  the  daughters 
of  the  nobility  and  gentry,  the  other,  which  has  500 
pupils,  mostly  day  boarders,  for  y^r^-girls,  geishas^  and 
tea-house  servants,  the  attendance  of  the  two  former 
classes  being  compulsory  during  certain  hours,  the  fees 
for  instruction  being  deducted  from  their  wages.  The 
teaching  includes  music,  dancing,  needlework  of  all 
kinds,  reading,  writing,  and  the  use  of  the  sorohan.^  to- 
gether with  silk-reeling,  the  weaving  of  Japanese  rugs, 
and  the  preparation  of  wadding  as  the  lining  for 
clothes.  In  the  school  for  the  higher  classes  the  great- 
est attention  is  paid  to  deportment  and  to  all  the  punc- 
tilious observances  of  Japanese  etiquette  for  ladies,  and 
the  result  is  a grace  and  winning  courtesy  on  the  part 
of  the  pupils,  which  are  most  truly  fascinating. 

Many  of  the  white,  semi-foreign  buildings  which  jar 
upon  the  intense  nationality  of  Kiy6to,  are  elementary 
schools,  of  which  there  are  445  in  the  Fu.  Every  city 
district  is  obliged  to  establish  and  maintain  one  of 
these,  except  in  the  case  of  very  poor  districts,  where 
two  are  allowed  to  unite.  In  these  the  pupils  are 
taught  foreign  history,  “ philosopliy,”  geography,  and 
mathematics,  besides  passing  through  the  Chinese  clas- 
sics, and  the  usual  course  of  Japanese  study. 

One  of  the  finest  novelties  here  is  the  scarcely-fin- 
ished hospital,  which  has  a very  fine  situation,  and  large 
grounds  surrounded  by  a wall,  outside  of  which  is  a 
stream  of  swiftly-running  clear  water.  The  hospital  is 


THE  NEW  HOSPITAL. 


259 


composed  of  several  two-storeyed  buildings,  with  deep 
verandahs  round  each,  and  has  the  most  approved 
arrangements  for  ventilation  and  general  wholesome- 
ness. It  has  cost  a great  deal,  but  the  money  is  most 
worthily  spent,  as  the  building  will  not  only  receive  600 
patients,  but  will  be  equipped  as  efficiently  as  possible 
as  a medical  school. 

With  its  schools,  hospitals,  lunatic  asylum,  prisons, 
dispensaries,  alms-houses,  fountains,  public  parks  and 
gardens,  exquisitely  beautiful  cemeteries,  and  streets  of 
almost  painful  cleanliness,  KiyOto  is  the  best-arranged 
and  best-managed  city  in  Japan.  1.  L.  B. 


260 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


UJI. 

Hugging  a Hibachi  — A Japanese  “Institution”  — Industrious  Pov- 
erty — Uji  Tea-houses  — Tea-making  — Our  First  Evening  — Kara 
— A Treasury  of  Antiquities  — A Row  of  Petitioners  — Inappro- 
priate Travelling  Gear  — A Shrine  of  Pilgrimage — An  Ancient 
Monastery  — A Trudge  through  Mud  — Uigenashi  — Mushroom 
Culture  — Roughing  it  — The  High  Road  — A Rubbing  Stone. 

Yajiada,  Pro\tkce  of  Ise,  November  10. 

A JOURNEY  of  five  days  lias  brought  us  here  to  the 
celebrated  Isd  shrines.  The  weather  began  by  being 
bad,  but  has  improved,  and  though  the  impassable  state 
of  the  roads  prevented  us  from  visiting  the  monastery 
of  Koyeisan  and  the  castle  of  Taka  tori,  we  have  passed 
through  lovely  scenery,  much  of  which  is  altogether 
Arcadian,  and  Mrs.  Gulick  is  an  excellent  travelling 
companion,  uniformly  cheerful,  unselfish,  kind,  and  in- 
terested, and  we  have  been  fortunate  in  kuruina-rim- 
ners,  accommodation,  and,  indeed,  in  everytliing  but  the 
weather  of  the  three  first  days.  As  compared  with  tlie 
rough,  unkempt  regions  of  Northern  Japan,  this  is  a 
highly  luxurious  country,  and  as  fleas  and  mosquitoes 
are  either  dead  or  in  winter  quarters,  there  is  really 
little  to  complain  of.  The  splendour  of  the  colouring 
is  very  great  at  this  season,  and  as  the  aforesaid  pests 
are  absent,  this  would  really  be  tlie  best  time  for  trav- 
elling in  Japan  if  it  were  not  for  the  intolerable  cold. 
Time  which  should  be  usefully  occupied,  is  completely 
taken  up  in  hugging  a hihachi^  by  which  means  the 


A JAPANESE  INSTITUTIONS 


261 


hands  and  chest  are  kept  tolerably  warm,  while  the  rest 
of  the  body  is  shivering,  or  in  tenderly  piling  one  live 
ember  upon  another  with  toy  tongs,  the  size  of  large 
scissors.  The  last  resource  is  the  kotatsu^  and,  casting 
dignity  aside,  I often  avail  myself  of  it.  This,  which 
is  a Japanese  “ institution,”  consists  of  a square,  wood- 
en frame,  standing  over  a basin  of  lighted  charcoal,  and 
supporting  a large  wadded  quilt  or  futon,  under  which 
you  creep,  and,  drawing  it  up  to  your  chin,  and  holding 
it  there,  you  spend  a warm,  lazy,  and  undignified  even- 
ing. Five  or  six,  or  even  more,  people  can  creep  under 
one,  and  I doubt  not  that  at  this  very  hour  half  the 
families  of  Japan  are  huddled  under  kotatsu. 

I must  reiterate  the  difference  between  a house,  as  we 
understand  it,  and  a house  in  Japan.  All  buildings 
consist  of  a raised  flooring,  vertical  beams,  and  a wood- 
en roof,  but  their  outer  walls  are  mainly  light  wooden 
frames,  with  paper  panes,  sliding  in  grooves,  enclosed 
at  night  by  wooden  shutters,  the  whole  being  merely  a 
porous  screen  from  the  inclemency  of  the  weather. 
Under  these  circumstances  the  invitation  to  creep  under 
the  kotatsu  is  as  welcome  as  the  “ sit  in  ” of  the  Scotch 
Highlands  or  the  ‘‘  put  your  feet  in  the  stove  ” of  Col- 
orado. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Gulick  and  I left  Kiy6to  at  eight  on 
the  5th  in  a grey-brown  drizzle,  and  reached  Nara  the 
same  night,  following  the  well-beaten  track  of  nearly 
all  foreigners  who  visit  the  old  capital,  halting  at  the 
celebrated  Inari  Temple  of  Fushimi,  formerly  a distinct 
town,  and  the  residence  of  Xavier,  and  celebrated  also 
for  the  final  defeat  of  the  Sh6gun’s  army  in  1869.  We 
travelled  through  seven  miles  of  continuous  streets 
before  we  got  into  the  country,  much  of  the  distance 
being  among  the  dwellings  of  the  poorest  classes ; but 
it  is  industrious  poverty,  without  vice  or  squalor,  and 


262 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


nearly  every  mean,  contracted,  dingy  abode  is  display- 
ing at  least  one  great,  bulging  chrysanthemum,  such  as 
would  drive  the  Temple  gardener  wild  with  env}\ 

We  crossed  the  broad  Ujikawa,  which  runs  out  of 
Lake  Biwa,  by  a long  and  handsome  bridge,  and  went 
as  far  as  the  pretty  little  town  of  Uji,  which  has  some 
of  the  loveliest  tea-houses  in  Japan,  hanging  over  the 
broad  swift  river,  with  gardens  and  balconies,  fountains, 
stone  lanterns,  and  all  the  quaint  conventionalities 
which  are  so  harmonious  here.  These  tea-houses  are 
ceaselessly  represented  by  Japanese  art,  and  if  you  see 
a photograph  of  an  ideal  tea-house,  you  may  be  sure  it 
is  at  Uji.  We  got  an  exquisite  upper  room  in  one  of 
them  for  lunch,  looking  up  the  romantic  gorge  through 
which  the  river  cuts  its  way  from  Lake  Biwa,  and  over 
a miniature  garden  lighted  by  flaming  maples.  It  was 
altogether  ideal,  and  I felt  that  we  were  coarsely  real 
and  out  of  place ! I had  not  before  seen  a European 
man  in  one  of  these  fairy-like  rooms,  and  Mr.  Gulick 
being  exceptionally  tall,  seemed  to  fill  the  whole  room, 
and  to  have  any  number  of  arms  and  legs  I I knew 
that  the  tea-house  people  looked  at  us  with  disgust. 

The  tea-plant,  which  is  a camellia,  and  is  now  covered 
with  cream-white  blossoms  crowded  with  stamens  and 
faiiitly  fragrant,  is  very  pretty,  for  it  is  allowed  to  grow 
into  broad  bushes  from  three  to  four  feet  high,  and  its 
rich  dark-green  masses  in  rows  contrast  well  with  the 
reddish  soil.  Uji  is  one  of  the  most  famous  of  the 
Japan  tea-districts,  and  its  people  told  us  that  two 
crops  a year  have  been  taken  from  the  same  shrubs  for 
300  years.  The  Japanese  say  that  tea  was  drunk  in 
the  Empire  in  the  ninth  century,  when  a Buddhist 
priest  brought  the  tea-seed  from  China ; but  it  seems 
that  its  culture  died  out,  and  that  it  was  naturalised  a 
second  time  in  the  twelfth  century,  when  a Buddhist 


OUB  FIRST  EVENING. 


263 


priest  again  brought  seed  from  China,  shortly  aftei 
which  tea  was  planted  at  Uji.  It  now  grows  all  over 
Japan,  except  in  Yezo,  and,  besides  being  the  great 
beverage  of  all  classes,  is  exported  annually  to  Amer- 
ica to  the  amount  of  about  16,000,000  pounds  from 
Yokohama  only.  I have  never  seen  any  tea  worth  less 
than  sixteenpence  a pound,  and  that  is  only  drunk  by 
the  poorer  classes.  The  Japanese  are  great  tea  epi- 
cures, and  the  best  tea  drunk  by  those  who  can  afford 
it  costs  thirteen  shillings  per  pound ! The  water  used 
for  tea-making  must  not  boil,  and  it  must  rest  barely  a 
minute  on  the  leaves,  or  the  result  will  be  bitter  and  as- 
tringent. The  infusion  is  a pale  straw  colour,  delicate 
and  delicious.  No  Japanese  would  touch  the  dark, 
rank  infusion  made  from  black  tea  which  we  like  so 
Avell.  To  drink  it  thus,  in  big  cups,  and  above  all  with 
milk,  they  regard  as  among  our  many  coarse  habits ! 

The  drizzle  turned  into  heavy  rain,  and  after  two 
hours  of  thorough  soaking  we  were  hurried  into  Nara 
in  the  darkness,  and  shot  out  of  our  kurumas  at  the 
first  yadoya  we  came  to,  the  men  evidently  not  being 
minded  to  run  farther.  It  was  a bad  inn,  with  old  mats, 
low  ceilings,  a throng  of  travellers,  and  no  end  of 
bad  smells.  There  I missed  Ito,  for  every  bit  of  bag- 
gage came  wet  into  my  room  with  muddy  m*appers  and 
straps.  Then  we  had  to  cook  orm  “ foreign  food  ” — 
simple  stirabout — over  a miserable  hihacM.,  and  we  ate 
like  pigs  with  all  our  wet  and  muddy  things  lying 
about  us,  the  open  shoji  letting  in  the  view  of  all  our 
coolies  bathing,  the  servant  crouching  on  the  floor,  and 
our  light,  a candle  stuck  into  a bottle.  Since  that 
night  we  have  been  in  comfortable  yadoya^.,  and  our 
A:?4rwma-runners  have  attended  to  our  baggage,  but  I 
always  miss  Ito  when  we  are  cooking  the  stirabout  over 
the  Mbachi.  Moreover,  that  evening  I forgot  how  to 


264  • 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


make  it,  and  put  the  flour  into  boiling  milk,  and  the 
result  was  tough  lumps.  We  could  not  sleep  for  the 
closeness  of  the  air  and  the  general  restlessness  of  oui 
fellow-travellers ; but  it  was  almost  worth  lying  awake 
to  realize  the  fact ' that  fleas  and  mosquitoes  are  at  an 
end  for  the  season. 

Tiie  next  day  was  a murky  drizzle,  with  a tempera- 
ture at  70°,  but  in  spite  of  that  I enjoyed  the  sights  of 
the  old  imperial  city,  in  which  seven  Mikados  reigned 
in  the  eighth  century.  People  differ  about  Nara.  Some 
of  my  friends  rave  about  it,  others  run  it  down.  I 
thought  it  lovely  even  in  the  mist,  with  great  natural 
beauty  heightened  by  religious  art,  and  a grey  melan- 
choly of  arrested  decay,  which  is  very  solemn.  Among 
the  many  interesting  things  are  a number  of  sacred 
deer,  which  wander  about  the  majestic  groves  and  ave- 
nues, and  follow  one  about  greedily,  begging  for  cakes, 
which  their  pertinacity  compels  one  to  buy.  The  town, 
which  contains  over  21,000  people,  runs  along  the  slope 
of  a range  of  picturesque  hills,  and  from  the  forest, 
which  in  part  resembles  a collection  of  our  finest  Eng- 
lish parks,  there  are  magnificent  views  over  the  ancient 
province  of  Yamato.  Every  one  buys  images  of  the  sa- 
cred deer,  hair-pins  made  from  their  horns,  charms  and 
combs,  and  the  pilgrims,  who  come  in  great  numbers  to 
the  famous  ShintO  temple  of  Kasuga,  sling  these  upon 
their  girdles.  We  went  out  early,  and  spent  much  of 
the  day,  I cannot  say  in  sight-seeing,  but  in  enjoying 
tlie  sights,  nearly  all  of  which  lie  in  the  magnificent 
park  or  forest  on  the  liill,  and  are  mostly  connected 
with  religion. 

Among  the  most  curious  is  a monstrous  wooden  mag- 
azine, made  of  heavy  timbers,  laid  horizontally,  sup- 
ported on  pillars  consisting  of  solid  trunks  of  trees 
eight  feet  high,  the  most  drearily  uncouth  building  that 


A TREASURY  OF  ANTIQUITIES. 


2G5 


can  be  imagined.  It  has  a most  singular  interest,  for  it 
was  built  for  the  safe  deposit  of  the  Mikado’s  furniture 
and  property,  just  before  the  Court  quitted  Kara  for 
Kiy6to  at  the  end  of  the  eighth  century,  and  is  said  to 
have  been  examined  every  sixty-first  year  since,  and 
repaired  when  necessary.  More  cmdous  still  is  the  fact 
that,  not  only  has  a wooden  building  escaped  the 
destructive  agencies  of  a thousand  years,  but  that  the 
actual  articles  mentioned  in  the  inventory  of  the  eighth 
century  are  there,  and  can  easily  be  distinguished  from 
later  accumulations.  There  was  an  exhibition  at  Nara 
not  long  ago,  and  a few  wonderful  things  from  the 
Imperial  Treasury  are  still  to  be  seen  at  the  rear  of 
the  great  temple,  but  among  the  objects  replaced  in 
the  monster  “ godown  ” were  screens,  pictures,  masks, 
books,  sculptures,  'soap  in  round  cakes  the  size  of 
quoits,  copper  bowls  and  dishes,  beads  and  ornaments, 
tortoise-shell  “ back-scratchers,”  pottery  and  glass, 
dresses,  bells,  hats,  weapons,  and  utensils  of  various 
kinds,  bronzes,  writing  paper,  clay  statuettes,  wooden 
statues,  etc.  etc.  What  would  we  not  give  for  such  a 
collection  made  by  Charlemagne  or  Alfred  ? 

Mr.  Gulick  bargained  with  some  kuruma-vunnevs  to 
take  us  to  Miwa,  and  on  leaving  him  to  return  to  Kobe 
I was  amused  to  find  that  I have  gained  more  confi- 
dence in  Japanese  travelling  in  six  months  than  Mrs. 
Gulick  has  in  several  years,  and  she  felt  a good  deal  of 
trepidation  in  starting  upon  the  “unbeaten  track;  ” 
but  everything  has  gone  very  smoothly,  and  she  is 
enjoying  the  tour  as  much  as  I am.  We  reached  Miwa, 
a town  of  about  1200  people,  after  dark,  and  got  de- 
lightful accommodation  with  very  kindly  people  in  the 
upper  room  of  a kura.,  with  a fine  view  of  an  avenue  of 
])ino  trees,  which  leads  to  a famous  shrine  of  ShintO 
pilgrimage.  The  entertainment  of  pilgrims  seems  in- 


266 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


deed  the  great  business  of  Miwa.  As  Mrs.  Gulick 
speaks  Japanese,  we  are  always  on  very  sociable  terms 
with  our  hosts,  and  our  room  was  soon  filled  with  the 
hostess  and  her  daughters  and  servants,  besides  infants 
of  various  ages.  These  women  were  astonished  that 
we  wore  our  dresses  up  to  our  thi-oats,  and  when  Mrs. 
Gulick  remarked  that,  according  to  our  ideas,  it  did 
not  look  womanly  or  “ correct  ” to  wear  them  as  they 
do,  open  to  their  girdles,  they  were  yet  more  surprised. 


MY  KURU3IA.RUNNER. 


and  as  each  new-comer  entered,  the  hostess  repeated  to 
her  tliis  singular  foreign  notion. 

Then  our  tliree  ^wrwwza-runners  glided  in,  and  after 
prostrating  themselves,  knelt  in  a row  on  the  floor. 
The  eldest,^  a tall  and  very  ugly  man,  having  nothing 
but  a maro  and  a short,  loose  jacket,  had  wrapped  a red 
blanket  round  his  lower  limbs;  the  second,  a youth, 

1 This  is  a sketch  from  a crayon  portrait  in  the  Engineering  College 
at  Tokiyo,  representing  a low  class  coolie,  hut  minus  his  pleasant  smile 
•and  look  of  goodness,  it  is  a faithful  likeness  of  my  invaluable  runner. 


A BOW  OF  PFTITIONEBS. 


2GT 


disdained  tliis  concession  to  our  prejudices  ; and  the 
third,  a man  of  feeble  physique^  who  had  delayed  us  on 
the  way,  considered  his  panoply  of  tattooing  sufficient 
clothing.  Bowing  over  and  over  again,  the  older  man 
preferred  a petition  that  we  would  engage  the  three  for 
the  ten  days’  journey  round  to  Kiy6to ; they  would  be 
our  servants,  he  said,  and  do  whatever  we  desired. 
Mrs.  Gulick  represented  to  them  that  they  had  no 
recommendations,  that  they  might  desert  us  on  the 
way,  that  they  might  become  useless  from  drinking  too 
much  sakS^  etc.  etc.  To  this  they  replied,  that  they 
would  be  faithful  unto  death,  that  they  would  not 
touch  sake^  that  they  would  serve  us  well,  etc.,  and 
pleaded  most  earnestly,  but  we  were  obdurate,  till  the 
elder  man  said,  “We  too  wish  to  worship  at  Is^ ! ” 
This  w'as  quite  irresistible,  so  we  told  them  that  we 
would  engage  the  two  strong  ones  at  six  sen  a ri  for  as 
long  as  they  pleased  us,  but  could  not  take  the  weakly 
one  over  the  mountains.  Then  they  pleaded  for  him, 
saying  that  he  had  a large  family,  and  was  very  poor, 
and  they  would  help  liim,  and  having  obtained  “ leave 
to  toil,”  they  got  up  quite  happy,  whipped  off  the  covers 
of  our  baggage,  put  up  my  stretcher  in  no  time,  and 
arranged  the  room  quite  neatly.  These  faithful  fellows 
are  the  comfort  of  oilr  tour  with  their  unweariable 
good  nature,  strict  honesty,  and  kindly,  pleasant  ways. 
They  are  never  tired,  never  ask  for  help  on  the  steepest 
and  miriest  ways,  seek  our  comfort  before  their  own, 
attend  on  us  like  servants,  help  us  to  pack,  take  us  to 
respectable,  clean  yadoyas^  and  are  faultless.  At  night, 
after  they  have  had  their  bath,  they  come  to  our  room  to 
wish  us  good  night  and  arrange  the  next  day’s  journey, 
and  every  morning  at  daylight  the  fusuma  glide  apart, 
and  the  shining  skulls  are  to  be  seen  bobbing  their  good 
morning  on  the  mats,  to  show  that  they  are  “ on  hand,” 


268 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


the  elder  one  always  in  the  “full  dress”  of  his  red 
blanket.  While  we  get  our  breal<fast  they  do  our  pack- 
ing witli  a quietness  and  celerity  which  leave  nothing 
to  be  desired,  and  the  goodness  of  the  expression  of  the 
elder  man  and  his  thoughtful  kindness,  preacli  many  a 
sermon  and  suggest  many  a thought  and  query.  He  is 
a peasant  proprietor,  but  when  times  are  not  busy,  leaves 
his  land  in  liis  wife’s  care,  and  draws  a Jcuruma.  He  buys 
toys  for  his  children  everj'Avliere,  so  that  the  well  in  the 
Icuruma  is  full  of  them ; and  having  “ worshipped  at 
Ts^,”  and  purchased  many  charms  for  friends  and  neigh- 
bours, he  will  go  home  with  a glad  heart.  These  run- 
ners tell  us  that  their  expenses  are  20  sen  a day,  and 
they  earn  from  40  to  60,  according  to  the  distance  we 
travel. 

The  morning  at  Miwa  opened  with  heavy  rain,  which 
never  ceased  during  the  whole  day.  In  the  deep  mud 
our  weakly  coolie  broke  down,  and  we  liad  to  dismiss 
him  with  a present.  The  mountain  roads  were  deep  in 
mire  and  water,  the  hurumas  often  sank  up  to  their  axles, 
and  though  we  walked  nearly  all  day,  i.e.  floundered 
through  the  mud,  the  men  had  great  difficulty  in  getting 
along,  and  sometimes  the  services  of  three  or  four 
peasants  were  required  to  get  the  baggage  huruma  up 
the  steep,  slippery  hills.  1 got  on  comparatively  easily 
in  my  mountain  dress  and  liigh  boots,  though  both  were 
soaked  within  half  an  hour  of  starting ; but  IMrs.  Gulick, 
who  wore  long  skirts  and  a long  waterproof  cloak  over 
them,  between  the  weight  of  the  skirts  and  of  the  water 
with  which  they  were  saturated,  foot  gear  which  always 
seemed  sticking  in  the  mud,  and  the  attempt  to  hold  up 
an  umbrella,  had  a hard  time;  but  her  cheerfulness 
never  failed,  and  the  worse  it  was  and  the  more  unlikely 
it  seemed  that  we  should  reacli  a yadoya  for  the  night, 
the  more  heartily  we  and  the  runners  laughed.  It  was. 


A REVELATION  OF  BEAUTY. 


269 


in  truth,  excellent  fun,  very  unlike  the  clismalness  of 
some  equally  rainy  clays  in  Northern  Japan. 

After  leaving  Miwa,  and  passing  for  a mile  or  two 
through  farming  villages,  a great  torii  spanned  the  road, 
the  mists  rolled  aside,  the  valley  contracted,  a wall  of 
finely  outlined  hills  blocked  it  up,  and  we  suddenly 
found  ourselves  in  a most  picturesque  mountain  town  of 
about  2000  people,  with  a torrent  rushing  down  a stone 
channel  in  the  middle,  waterfalls  reverberating  all 
around,  warm-tinted,  deep-eaved,  steep-roofed  houses 
forming  streets  whose  charming  quaintness  delights  the 
eye,  or  perched  on  rocks  or  terraces  on  the  steep  iiill- 
sides  — Swiss  all  over,  even  to  the  sale  of  rosaries, 
pictures,  and  wood-carvings  in  the  dainty  shops.  But 
not  Swiss  are  the  grey  temples  on  the  heights,  the 
priests’  houses  on  grand,  stone-faced  embankments 
hanging  over  dizzy  ledges,  and  the  red  torii  at  the  feet 
of  superb  flights  of  stairs  which  lead  up  mountain  sides 
to  ancient  shrines  of  nature  worship,  liidden  among 
groves  of  gigantic  cryptomeria,  rising  from  among 
maples  flaunting  in  scarlet  and  gold.  It  was  all  so 
unexpected,  so  off  the  beaten  track  of  foreign  travel, 
and  we  had  tumbled  unawares  into  one  of  the  most 
famous  places  in  Japan,  celebrated  in  poetry  and  paint- 
ing, and  one  of  the  most  popular  of  the  many  places  of 
pilgrimage.  Beautiful  Hasd-dera ! I shall  never  forget 
its  exquisite  loveliness  in  the  November  rain.  We 
splashed  through  mire  and  water,  climbed  heights,  saw 
temples,  forgot  hunger  and  soaked  clothes,  and  lingered 
long,  for  Nature,  in  this  glorious  valley,  has  done  her 
best  to  simulate  the  beauties  of  a far-off  island ; and  as 
we  looked  down  into  the  cleft  through  which  the  loud- 
booming  Yamagawa  was  flinging  itself  in  broad  drifts 
of  foam,  and  at  the  steep  mountain  on  the  other  side 
aflame  with  maples,  we  exclaimed  simultaneously,  “A 
Hawaiian  gulch ! ” 


270 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


It  is  hard  to  write  plain  prose  about  Has6-dera.  Its 
steep-roofed  houses  are  piled  in  a cul-de-sac^  deeply  cleft 
by  the  Yaraagawa  ; it  is  blocked  in  by  a densely-wooded 
mountain  side,  dark  with  cryptomeria  and  evergreen 
oaks  lighted  up  by  maples  ; thickly-wooded  heights  rise 
on  every  side,  rocky  precipices  descend  to  the  river  ; and 
heights  and  precipices  are  covered  with  temples,  monas- 
teries, and  priests’  houses  — the  great  temple  to  Kwan- 
non  being  built  half  upon  the  rock  and  half  upon  a plat- 
form built  out  of  the  rock.  This  is  reached  by  a grand 
flagged  ascent  in  three  zigzags,  under  a corridor,  with 
beds  of  tree  peonies  on  stone-faced  embankments,  step 
above  step  on  each  side,  bringing  crowds  of  strangers  to 
the  “peony  viewing”  in  the  flowery  month  of  April. 
Flights  of  stone  stairs,  grand  stone  embankments,  reli- 
gious buildings,  abbots’  and  monks’  houses  with  grey 
walls  and  sweeping  roofs,  terraces,  shrines,  stone  and 
bronze  lanterns,  chapels,  libraries,  gateways,  idols,  one 
above  another,  and  jutting  out  on  every  piece  of  van- 
tage ground  which  hangs  over  the  cleft  of  the  Yama- 
gawa,  attest  the  former  grandeur  of  this  “ Monastery 
of  the  Long  Valley,”  which,  founded  in  the  seventh  or 
eighth  century,  was  destroyed  by  fire  at  least  twelve 
times  before  the  fifteenth ! 

The  great  temple  of  the  Goddess  of  Mercy,  like  sev- 
eral other  popular  temples,  is  dark  and  dingy;  and  a 
haU  outside,  sixty  feet  long,  devoted  to  the  display  of 
tawdry  ex  voto  pictures,  is  as  mangy  and  worm-eaten  as 
a celebrated  image  of  Binzuru,  the  great  medicine  god, 
who  occupies  a chair  at  one  end  of  it,  and  is  being 
rubbed  out  of  all  semblance  of  humanity.  The  outer 
wall  of  the  back  of  the  chapel  is  hung  with  tresses 
of  the  hair  both  of  women  and  men,  offered  along  with 
vows.  The  view  from  the  temple  platform,  of  height 
above  height  crowned  with  monastic  buildings,  of  the 


A TRUDGE  THROUGn  MUD. 


271 


steep-roofed  houses  of  Has^  below,  piled  irregularly 
above  the  rushing  Yama,  and  of  mountain,  forest,  and 
hill-sides  aflame  with  maples,  was  one  which  we  were 
loth  to  leave ; and  when,  after  climbing  a steep  zigzag 
which  leads  up  the  face  of  a singular  ridge,  called,  Ata- 
gosan,  we  looked  our  last  upon  the  “ Monastery  of  the 
long  valley,”  it  was  with  a regret  that  I have  hardly  felt 
elsewhere  in  Japan. 

This  knife-like  ridge,  the  summit  rock  of  which  is 
gashed  to  allow  the  track  to  pass  through,  has  a red 
Shinto  shrine  at  its  extremity,  a glorious  view  of  Hasd 
on  the  one  side,  and  on  the  other  a steep  valley  terraced 
for  rice.  The  rain,  which  had  moderated  a little,  took 
a mean  advantage  of  us  there,  and  lasted  all  day,  turn- 
ing every  rivulet  into  a torrent,  and  every  gash  on  the 
hill-sides  into  a waterfall.  The  scenery,  however,  looked 
lovely,  for  the  flaming  colours  on  the  liill-sides  simulated 
the  effect  of  sunshine,  and  the  tawny  rice  harvest 
against  the  dark  evergreens  gave  warmth  and  contrast. 
All  day  we  trudged  through  mire  up  and  down  steep 
hills,  passing  beautiful  brown-roofed  villages  on  heights, 
spurs,  and  slopes,  temples  on  stone-faced  embankments, 
groves  of  superb  cryptomeria,  hills  with  coloured  woods, 
ravines  terraced  for  rice  with  stone  embankments  like 
steep  stairs  only  six  feet  wide  — a lovely  region  of 
beauty,  industry,  and  peace.  We  met  never  a horse  or 
foot  passenger  the  whole  day,  and  sometimes  made  less 
than  a mile  an  hour,  owing  to  the  steepness  and  deep 
mud  of  the  road.  When  evening  came  on,  we  lost  eacli 
other,  and  I reached  the  village  of  Sambon-matsu,  or 
Higenashi,  alone,  to  find  total  darkness,  not  a chink  in 
the  amado  of  any  house  giving  evidence  of  light  within. 
By  dint  of  much  shouting  we  succeeded  in  getting  the 
door  of  a yadoya  opened,  and  there  I sat  for  some  time 
in  the  doma.^  looking  into  what  appeared  like  immensity 


272 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


— a lofty  blackened  space  dimly  visible  by  the  light  of 
an  andon.,  in  which  some  misty,  magnified  figures  were 
gliding  about  in  the  smoke.  After  a time  I succeeded 
in  conveying  my  apprehensions  about  Mis.  Gulick  to 
the  house-master,  and  six  of  us  turned  out  into  the  rain 
with  paper  umbrellas  and  lanterns  to  search  for  her, 
and  soon  met  her  stumbling  bravely  along  in  the  pitch 
darkness,  dragging  her  soaked  clothes  with  difficulty, 
and  laughing  at  my  fears. 

In  spite  of  the  dampness  and  cold  we  were  soon 
asleep,  to  be  awoke  at  daylight  by  a sound  as  if  of  piti- 
less rain ; but  on  opening  the  amado  there  was  a delight- 
ful surprise,  for  the  clouds  were  rolling  up  in  rosy 
masses,  the  sky  was  intensely  blue,  the  sun,  which  we 
had  not  seen  for  a week,  was  rising  above  the  mountains, 
and  colour  was  every  moment  deepening  in  his  light. 
The  Nusliitoyama  inn  is  on  an  abrupt  height  above  the 
beautiful  Kitsugawa,  and  its  balcony  looks  down  upon 
a sliarp  curve  of  the  river,  which  was  flashing  in  the 
sunlight  below  lofty  grey  cliffs,  over  wliicli  scarlet  trail- 
ers hung.  A little  mill  with  an  overshot  wheel,  hill 
above  hill  glowing  with  autumn  colouring,  in  light  and 
shadow,  a great  camellia  tree  loaded  with  pink  blossoms, 
palms  (^Chcemerops  excelsa^^  oranges,  bamboo  groves, 
steep-roofed  houses  rising  one  above  the  other,  and 
everything  flashing  with  sunlit  rain-drops,  made  a pic- 
ture of  autumn  beauty.  But  odes  of  a thousand  }^ears 
ago  represent  the  dread  with  which  the  Japanese  peas- 
ant contemplates  the  coming  winter,^  and  our  hostess 

1 Such  as  the  following,  among  many  others,  translated  by  Mr.  F . V 
Dickins : — 

“ The  hamlet  bosomed  mid  the  hills, 

Aye  lonely  is.  In  winter  time, 

The  solitude  with  misery  fills 
My  mind.  For  now  the  rigorous  clime. 

Hath  banished  every  herb  and  tree, 

And  every  human  face  from  me.” 


MUSHROOM  CULTURE. 


273 


shivered  when  we  admired,  and  said  that  another  six 
weeks  would  shut  out  her  beautiful  village  from  the 
world. 

We  had  a delightful  day’s  journey  through  lovely 
scenery  in  brilliant  sunshine,  but  the  people  were  so 
busy  with  their  harvest  work  that  we  could  not  get  a 
thii'd  kuruma.,  and  had  to  do  a good  deal  of  walking. 
The  road  follows  the  course  of  the  Kitsugawa,  which  it 
crosses  at  the  considerable  town  of  Nobara,  on  a bridge 
of  planks,  supported,  as  many  others  are  in  that  region, 
on  bamboo  creels  eight  feet  in  diameter,  filled  with 
stones.  On  the  way,  in  damp  woods,  there  were  rocks 
with  rows  of  pieces  of  decaying  wood  placed  aslant 
against  them,  and  on  inquiry  I learned  that  these  repre- 
sent the  mushroom  culture  for  which  the  provinces  of 
Yamato  and  Isd  are  famous.  Mushrooms  are  an  article 
of  diet  everywhere.  They  are  among  the  brown  hor- 
rors in  a brown  liquid,  which  are  among  the  “ tempta- 
tions” of  every  tea-house;  and  there  is  an  immense 
demand  for  them,  specially  for  a kind  tasteless  when 
fresh,  but  highly  flavoured  when  dry.  i\Iuch  skill  is 
brought  to  bear  on  their  production,  but  being  quite 
ignorant  of  the  mode  of  culture  elsewhere,  I cannot 
make  any  comparisons.  These  ingenious  people  select 
logs  of  two  kinds  of  oak,  make  longitudinal  incisions  in 
them,  and  expose  them  in  groves  to  damp  and  heat  till 
they  are  partly  rotten,  when,  the  worst  parts  being  re- 
moved, they  are  placed  aslant  against  rocks  as  I saw 
them,  and  mushrooms  appear  upon  them  in  abundance 
the  next  spring.  After  the  first  crop  has  been  gathered 
they  are  placed  in  water  in  the  morning,  and  in  tlie 
afternoon  are  taken  out  and  beaten  with  a mallet,  which 
beating  is  so  successful,  that  after  being  placed  aslant 
again  for  two  or  three  days  fresh  mushrooms  appear. 
The  people  say  that  if  the  logs  are  beaten  heavily  the 


274 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


mushrooms  are  very  large,  but  if  lightly  a good  number 
of  small  ones  spring  up  in  succession.  The  ingenuity 
of  the  Japanese  in  providing  themselves  with  food  is 
quite  marvellous. 

There  was  the  'usual  beautiful  terrace  cultivation, 
villages  jutted  out  from  hill-sides  on  stone-faced  em- 
bankments, or  nestled  among  flaming  woods,  and  tem- 
ples and  torii  everywhere  testified  to  the  devotion  of  a 
past  age.  At  Nobara,  where  the  mud  in  the  streets  was 
ten  inches  deep,  the  police  bothered  us  for  twenty  min- 
utes, fancying  that  there  was  an  informality  in  our 
passports ; but  the  sun  was  still  high  when  we  climbed 
a sandy  ridge  of  great  height,  with  an  extensive  view 
of  hundreds  of  hills,  mostly  sandy,  covered  with  pine 
and  azalea,  their  waving  ranges  glorified  in  the  sun- 
sliine.  Reaching  Aido  in  the  late  afternoon,  a disa- 
greeable innkeeper  wanted  us  to  remain,  saying  the 
yadoya  at  Tsiji  was  “ piggy ; ” but  we  went  on,  and 
after  much  delay,  owing  to  lack  of  transport,  luckily 
met  an  unloaded  horse,  put  our  baggage  on  him,  and 
pushed  up  into  the  mountains  at  sunset,  along  a track 
shut  up  witli  a torrent  in  a ravine  whose  sides  were 
scarlet  and  crimson,  with  summits  rising  sharply  into  a 
lemon-coloured  sky.  It  was  too  cold  for  anything  but 
walking,  and  though  the  road  was  all  up-hill,  we  had 
not  walked  ourselves  warm  when  we  reached  the  wild 
little  mountain  hamlet  of  Awoyama  by  moonlight,  only 
to  find  that  neither  horses  nor  coolies  could  be  got  for 
the  next  day.  It  was  a pretty  rough  place,  with  oxen 
under  the  same  roof,  but  we  got  a good  room,  and  our 
faithful  runners  made  it  as  comfortable  as  they  could. 

The  first  cliill  of  the  winter  was  severe.  The  room 
was  very  damp,  and  the  amado  were  partially  nailed  up, 
so  it  had  not  a chance  of  sunshine.  We  gropingly 
cooked  our  stirabout  by  the  dim  light  of  an  andon; 


THE  HIGH  BO  AD. 


275 


could  not  see  to  write ; kept  our  candles  for  Yamada ; 
shivered,  hugged  hibacliis  and  kettles;  got  heaps  of 
futons  and  slept  under  them,  regardless  of  their  weight ; 
woke  in  the  night  from  the  cold,  buried  our  heads  and 
faces  in  shawls,  and  got  up  before  daylight,  still  shiver- 
ing, to  find  a bleak,  windy,  and  dubious  morning,  on 
which  rice  and  eggs  were  comfortless  and  unsustaining 
food. 

We  were  much  detained  again  by  difficulties  of  trans- 
port, but  the  day  turned  out  very  fine,  and  Mrs.  Gulick 
did  not  think  walking  any  hardship  in  the  lovely  coun- 
try, so  that  by  the  afternoon  we  had  got  through  the 
mountains,  passed  Kaido,  Onoki,  and  Kaminoro,  and  no 
end  of  villages  and  temples,  and  reached  Rokken,  on 
the  broad  “ carriage-road  ” which  connects  the  great 
highway  of  the  T6kaid6  with  the  Ise  shrines.  Here 
there  were  waggons  in  numbers  carrying  passengers, 
and  hundreds  of  kurumas.,  and  pack-cows  with  velvet 
frontlets  embroidered  in  gold,  and  men  making  the  old- 
fashioned  waggon-wheels  which  have  no  tires,  and  all 
the  industries  of  a large  and  prosperous  population. 

In  order  to  spend  Sunday  here  we  engaged  additional 
runners,  and  came  from  Rokken,  twelve  and  a half 
miles,  at  a great  pace,  our  men  swinging  paper-lanterns 
and  hooting  merrily  as  they  ran.  The  whole  distance 
nearly  is  Ihicd  with  villages,  towns,  and  good  houses, 
with  tiled  walls,  enclosing  large  areas,  a populous  and 
prosperous  region,  much  advanced  in  all  material  things. 
Passing  through  Ichida|and  the  large  town  of  Matsu- 
saka,  which  abounds  with  curio  shops,  under  a clear 
sky,  and  with  a sharp  north  wind  benumbing  our  limbs, 
we  reached  Kushida,  where  we  ferried  the  Kushida- 
gawa  in  a scow  — a handsome  new  bridge  on  twelve 
piers  not  being  quite  finished  — and  then  under  a glori- 
ous moon  reached  a broad,  shallow  river  called  the 


276 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


Miydgawa,  where  we  were  detained,  not  reluctantly^ 
for  a length  of  time  waiting  ferriage.  It  was  a very 
picturesque  scene  with  the  dark,  wooded  banks,  the 
numerous  fishing-punts  with  liglits,  and  the  number  of 
patient  fishers  standing  up  to  their  waists  in  the  cold 
water  with  lanterns  hanging  from  their  necks.  Buddh- 
ist and  Shinto  temples,  torii.,  and  images  succeeded 
each  other  along  the  road ; there  were  huge  trees  and 
sacred  groves  girdled  by  the  straw  rope  with  its  de- 
pendent tassels ; nearly  every  house  had  ShiutO  em- 
blems over  the  door,  and  rattling  over  the  remaining  ri 
we  reached  Yamada,  the  cradle  of  the  ancient  faith.  It 
looked  solid  and  handsome  in  the  moonlight,  and  looks 
more  solid  and  handsome  still  in  the  daylight,  for  its 
houses  are  two  storeyed,  and  mostly  in  the  solid  kura 
style,  and  turn  their  gable-ends  to  the  street.  The 
roofs  are  heavily  tiled,  the  stone  embankments  are  in 
fine  order,  and  altogether,  apart  from  the  grandeur  of 
the  camphor  and  cryptomeria  groves,  and  the  stately^ 
entrances  and  stone-bordered  avenues  of  the  Geku 
shrine,  Yamada  is  the  handsomest  town  I have  seen  in 
Japan. 

Vice  and  religion  are  apt  to  be  in  seeming  alliance  in 
this  country  ; the  great  shrines  of  pilgrimage  are  nearly^ 
always  surrounded  by^  the  resorts  of  the  dissolute,  and 
nowhere  are  these  so  painfully  numerous  as  on  the 
stately  road  which  connects  the  Geku  with  the  Naiku 
slnine,  three  miles  off.  It  was  some  time  before  our 
runners  succeeded  in  lodging  us  in  a yadoya  which  was 
not  kashitsukeya.,  but  we  are  in  good  quarters  at  the  an- 
cient house  kept  by-  Matsushima  Zenzaburo,  from  among 
whose  thirty  rooms  we  chose  one  upstairs,  which  is  full 
of  sunshine  and  pleasantness.  But,  oh,  for  a good  fire  ! 
It  is  veiy  cold  at  night  and  after  sunset. 

Nov.  10.  — Sunday  was  a day  of  sunshine  and  glitter. 


A EUBBING-STONE. 


quite  perfect.  We  read  the  English  service  in  the 
morning,  and  in  the  afternoon,  with  our  faithful  run- 
ners, visited  the  Geku  shrines  in  their  glorious  groves. 
There  our  men  “ worsliipped,”  that  is,  they  threw  some 
rin  on  the  white  cloth  in  front  of  the  gateway  of  the 
shrines,  prostrated  themselves,  rubbed  their  hands,  and 
went* away  rejoicing.  My  runner  has  rheumatism  in  his 
neck,  and  not  having  been  cured  by  his  application  to 
the  medicine  god  of  Hasd-dera,  he  rubbed  a celebrated 
rubbing-stone  at  the  corner  of  the  sacred  enclosure  with 
great  vigour,  and  then  rubbed  himself,  and  to-day  he  is 
free  from  pain ! The  camphor  groves  alone  are  well 
worth  a visit,  for  they  are  gloriously  beautiful,  but  no 
beauty  of  nature  or  sunshine  can  light  the  awful  melan- 
choly of  the  unutterable  emptiness  of  the  holiest  places 
of  Shinto. 

In  the  evening  our  host  came  up  for  a friendly  talk, 
and  made  many  inquiries  concerning  Christianity,  and 
Mrs.  Gulick  made  a praiseworthy  attempt  to  explain  its 
essentials  to  our  runners,  with  how  much  success  may 
be  judged  from  the  question  which  they  asked  to-da}', 
“ If  we  were  to  worship  }^our  God,  should  we  have  to 
go  to  your  country?”  being  quite  willing,  apparently, 
to  add  another  deity  to  their  already  crowded  Pantheon. 

I.  L.  B. 


278 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


« 


THE  ISE  SHRINES.i 

“ The  Divine  Palaces  of  the  most  holy  gods  of  Ise  ” — Sanctity  of  the 

Ise  Shrines  — The  Kami-dana  — The  Ise  Charms  — The  Geku 

Camphor  Groves  — The  Temple  Grounds  — The  Sacred  Enclosure 

— The  Shrines  — The  “ Holy  of  Holies  ” — The  Japanese  Regalia 

— The  Shinto  Mirror. 

These  temples  of  Is^,  the  Geku  and  the  Naiku,  called 
by  the  Japanese  by  a name  which  literally  means  “ The 
two  great  divine  palaces,”  rank  first  among  Shint6 
shrines  in  point  of  sanctity,  and  are  to  Shintoists,  even 
in  the  irreligious  present,  something  of  what  Mecca  is 
to  Mussulmans,  and  the  Holy  Places  of  Jerusalem  to 
Greeks  and  Latins.  Tens  of  thousands  of  pilgrims  still 
resort  to  them  annually,  and  though  the  pilgrimage  sea- 
son is  chiefly  in  the  spring  months,  there  is  no  time  of 
the  year  in  which  there  is  an  absolute  cessation  of  vis- 
itors. The  artisans  of  Tbkiyb  now  think  it  possible  to 
gain  a livelihood  without  beseeching  the  protection  of 
the  Iso  divinities,  and  the  shop-boys  of  the  trading 
cities  no  longer  beg  their  way  to  and  from  Yamada  in 
search  of  the  Isd  charms ; but  it  ’^vill  be  long  before 
the  Japanese  householder,  specially  the  credulous  peas- 
ant, learns  to  feel  safe  without  the  paper  ticket  inscribed 
with  the  name  Tenshoko-daijin,  the  principal  deity  of 
Ts^,  which  is  only  to  be  obtained  at  the  Is^  shrines. 

1 The  account  of  the  Ise  shrines  in  ray  letter  is  so  incomplete  and 
fragmentary,  that  I prefer  to  give  these  Notes  taken  on  the  spot,  and 
’on-ected  subsequently  by  the  help  of  a paper  by  Mr.  Satow. 


SANCTITY  OF  THE  ISJ^  SHRINES.  279 

In  the  foregoing  Letters  I have  alluded  to  the  fact 
that  in  every  Japanese  house  there  is  a kami-dana^  or 
“shelf  for  gods,”  on  which  is  a wooden  miniature  of  a 
Shinto  shrine  containing  paper  tickets,  on  which  the 
names  of  various  gods  are  written,  one  of  which  is  al- 
ways the  deity  aforesaid.  This  ticket  is  believed  to 
contain  between  two  thin  slips  some  shavings  of  the 
wands  used  by  the  priests  of  Ise  at  the  two  annual 
festivals,  wliich  are  supposed  to  effect  the  purification 
of  the  nation  from  the  “ sin  ” of  the  preceding  six 
months,  and  is  supposed  to  protect  its  possessor  from' 
misfortune  for  half  a year,  at  the  end  of  which  time  the 
o-harai.)  as  it  is  called,  ought  to  be  changed  for  a new 
one ; but  from  what  I learned  at  the  Geku,  it  appears  that 
modern  negligence  is  content  to  renew  the  charm  once 
in  one,  two,  and  three  years,  or  even  longer.  It  is  to 
be  supposed  that  these  o-liarai  bear  as  much  relation 
to  the  wands  of  purification  as  the  relics  profusely  scat- 
tered throughout  the  world  bear  to  the  Holy  Cross,  of 
which  they  are  said  to  be  fragments.  The  old  o-harai 
ought  to  be  burned  or  cast  into  a river  or  the  sea,  but 
are  usually  employed  to  heat  the  bath  used  by  the  virgin 
priestesses  after  their  posturings  at  the  annual  festival 
of  the  patron-god  of  any  locality.  They  were  hawked 
about  Japan  up  to  1868,  but  this  practice  was  prohibited 
by  Government  a few  years  ago,  and  they  can  only  be 
obtained  at  the  Isd  temples  themselves,  or  at  certain 
accredited  agencies.  This  fact  of  the  universal  distri- 
bution of  the  o-harai  connects  every  family  in  Japan 
with  the  Is4  shrines  and  Shintd  superstition,  and  gives 
tlie  shrines  a central  position  as  regards  the  national 
faith. 

The  two  groups  of  shrines  are  distant  about  three  and 
a half  miles  from  each  other.  The  majority  of  the  pil- 
grims lodge  in  F uruichi,  a town  which  occupies  the  crest 


280 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


of  the  ridge  between  the  two  temples,  and  is  almost  made 
up  of  yadoyas.,  tea-houses,  and  joroyas.,  mostly  of  large 
size,  with  solid  gables  turned  towards  the  street.  Ya- 
mada,  which  is  conterminous  with  Furuichi,  is  also  full 
of  houses  of  entertainment.  These  towns  contain 
about  40,000  people,  and  for  Japan  are  marvels  of  solid 
and  picturesque  building.  A Japanese  pilgrimage  is 
not  a solemn  or  holy  thing,  and  the  great  shrines  of 
Shinto  pilgrimage  possess  more  than  the  usual  number 
of  vicious  attractions. 

It  is  sufficient  to  describe  the  Geku  shrine,  which  is 
exactly  copied  from  the  Naiku.  Both  stand  in  the 
midst  of  ancient  cryptomeria,  each  stately  tree  in 
Shinto  fancy  worthy  to  be  a god,  but  it  is  the  camphor 
groves,  the  finest  in  Japan,  covering  the  extensive  and 
broken  grounds  with  their  dark  magnificence,  which  so 
impress  a stranger  with  their  unique  grandeur  as  to 
make  him  forget  the  bareness  and  meanness  of  the 
shrines  which  they  overshadow. 

The  grand  entrance  is  reached  from  Yamada  by  cross- 
ing a handsome  bridge,  which  leads  to  a wide  space  en- 
closed by  banks  faced  with  stone.  On  the  right  is  a 
building  occupied  by  the  temple-attendants,  where  frag- 
ments of  the  wood  used  in  building  the  shrines,  packets 
of  the  rice  offered  to  the  gods,  and  sundry  other  charms, 
are  offered  for  sale.  Close  to  this  there  is  a massive 
tom,  the  entrance  to  the  temple-grounds,  which  are  of 
great  extent,  and  contain  hills,  ravines,  groves,  and 
st]’eams.  Very  broad  and  finely-gravelled  roads,  witli 
granite  margins  and  standard  lamps  at  intervals,  inter- 
sect them,  and  their  torii^  stone  bridges,  stone  staircases, 
and  stone-faced  embankments,  are  all  on  a grand  scale  < 
and  in  perfect  repair.  On  the  left  hand,  within  the  en- 
trance, there  are  some  plain  buildings,  one  of  which  is 
occupied  by  several  temple-attendants  in  white  silk  vest- 


TUE  SACRED  ENCLOSURE. 


281 


ments,  whose  business  it  is  to  sell  the  o-harai  to  all  com- 
ers.  Heavy  curtains,  with  the  Mikado’s  crest  upon 
them,  are  draped  over  the  entrances  to  this  and  the 
building  at  the  gate,  and  may  be  taken  as  indicating 
that  Shint6  is  under  “ State  ” patronage. 

Passing  through  stately  groves  by  a stately  road,  and 
under  a second  massive  torii.,  the  visitor  reaches  the 
famous  Geku  shrine,  and,  even  in  spite  of  Mr.  Satow’s 
realistic  description,  is  stricken  with  a feeling  of  disap- 
pointment, for  he  is  suddenly  brouglit  up  by  a great 
oblong  enclosure  of  neatly  planed  wood,  the  upright 
posts,  which  are  just  over  nine  feet  high,  being  planted* 
at  distances  of  six  feet,  the  intervals  being  completely 
filled  up  with  closely-fitting  and  very  heavy  planking 
laid  horizontally.  The  only  ornaments  are  bamboo  re- 
ceptacles on  each  post,  containing  sprigs  of  Cleyera 
Japonica^  changed  occasionally.  This  monotonous  look- 
ing enclosure  rests  on  a raised  platform  of  broken  stone, 
supported  on  a rough  stone-faced  embankment  about 
three  feet  high.  One  corner  of  this  is  formed  by  a 
large,  irregularly  shaped,  dark  stone,  worn  perfectly 
smooth  from  being  constantly  rubbed  by  the  hands  of 
persons  who  believe  that  by  rubbing  the  stone  first,  and 
then  any  painful  part  of  the  body,  the  pain  will  be 
cured.  The  front  of  this  extraordinary  enclosure  is 
247  feet  long,  the  rear  235  feet,  one  side  339  feet,  and 
the  other  335  feet.  It  has  five  entrances,  the  principal 
one,  18  feet  wide,  facing  the  road,  being  formed  by  a 
torii.  At  a distance  of  24  feet  from  three  of  these  en- 
trances are  high  wooden  screens,  and  a similar  screen, 
at  a distance  of  76  feet,  hides  the  main  entrance,  much 
in  the  same  way  that  the  great  brick  screens  in  Canton 
conceal  the  gateways  of  the  private  dwellings'  of  the 
mandarins.  Within  the  entrance  torii  there  is  a wooden 
gateway  with  a thatched  roof,  but  a curtain  with  the 


282 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


Mikado’s  crest  conceals  all  view  of  the  interior  court, 
In  front  of  this  gateway  the  pilgrims  make  their'obei* 
sances  and  throw  down  their  rin  upon  a white  cloth. 
The  other  entrances  are  closed  with  solid  gates.  There 
is  no  admission  except  for  the  specially  privileged,  but 
a good  view  into  the  enclosure  is  gained  by  climbing  a 
bank  upon  its  west  side. 

Within  the  thatched  gateway  there  is  a pebbled  court, 
on  the  right  of  which  is  a long  narrow  shed,  one  of 
three  buildings  set  apart  for  the  entertainment  of  the 
envoys  sent  by  the  Mikado  after  the  annual  harvest  fes- 
tival. In  a straight  line  from  the  second  gateway  a 
flagged  pavement,  passing  under  a torii  at  a distance  of 
99  feet,  reaches  another  thatched  gateway,  through 
which  there  is  a third  court,  formed  by  palisades  the 
height  of  a man,  placed  close  together.  Another 
thatched  gateway  gives  entrance  to  the  last  enclosure, 
an  area  nearly  square,  being  134  feet  by  131,  surrounded 
by  a very  stout  palisade.  Within  this  stands  the  shoden 
or  shrine  of  the  gods,  and  on  the  right  and  left  two 
treasuries.  The  impression  produced  by  the  whole  re- 
sembles that  made  upon  the  minds  of  those  who  have 
made  the  deepest  researches  into  Shint6  — there  is 
nothing,  and  all  things,  even  the  stately  avenues  of  the 
Geku,  lead  to  nothing.  Japanese  antiquaries  say  that 
the  architecture  of  Shinto  temples  resembles  that  of 
the  primeval  Japanese  hut,  and  these,  Avhich  have  been 
rebuilt  since  1868,  represent  this  architecture  in  its  pur- 
est form.  The  shdden  is  34  feet  long  by  18  wide,  and 
stands  on  a platform  raised  on  posts  6 feet  high,  which 
is  approached  by  nine  steps  15  feet  wide,  with  a balus  - 
trade on  each  side.  A balcony  3 feet  wide,  with  a low- 
rail,  runs  all  round  the  building,  and  is  covered  by  the 
eaves  of  the  roof,  which  is  finely  thatched  with  bark  to 
the  depth  of  a foot.  The  ridge  pole  and  a number  of 


283 


THE  ‘^nOLY  OF  HOLIES:^ 

cigar-shaped  beams  and  rafters  at  each  end,  crossing 
eacli  other  above  the  roof,  are  supposed  to  be  merely 
the  development  of  the  roof  of  the  primeval  hut.  The 
building . has  sides  of  closely-fitting  planks,  and  the 
whole,  like  all  else,  is  of  planed  wood,  destitute  of  any 
otlier  ornament  than  occasional  plates  of  pierced  and 
engraved  brass.  The  treasuries  are  mere  “ go-downs,” 
without  balconies.  They  contain  silken  stuffs,  silk  fibre, 
and  saddlery  for  the  sacred  horses. 

In  the  north-west  corner  of  the  area  is  a plain  build- 
ing, containing  the  goheU  wands  with  depeiulent  pieces 
of  paper,  frequently  mentioned  before,  usually  wor- 
shipped as  gods,  but  at  Isd  only  believed  to  have  the 
power  of  attracting  the  spirits  of  the  gods  to  the  spot, 
which  was  their  original  meaning.  In  the  north-east 
corner,  within  a special  enclosure,  there  is  another  plain 
building,  in  which  the  water  and  food  offered  to  the 
gods  of  the  Geku  are  set  out.  The  daily  offerings  to 
the  principal  deity  consist  of  sixteen  saucers  of  rice, 
four  saucers  of  salt,  four  cups  of  water,  and  such  fish, 
birds,  and  vegetables  as  may  be  contributed  by  the  sur- 
rounding villages,  and  the  three  secondary  deities  re- 
ceive one-half  each.  The  chief  deity  of  the  Geku  is 
“ The  Goddess  of  Food,”  and  of  the  Naiku,  the  great 
“Sun  Goddess.” 

Having  followed  Shinto  to  its  centre  at  Isd,  the  bare 
wooden  building,  which  is  the  kernel  of  the  Geku  en- 
closure, and  the  Shinto  “ Holy  of  Holies,”  assumes  a 
very  special  interest,  but  here,  again,  there  is  nothing 
]/jt  disappointment,  for  the  shoden  only  contains  four 
boxes  of  unpainted  wood,  furnished  with  light  handles, 
resting  on  low  stands,  and  covered  with  what  is  said  to 
be  white  silk.  In  each  box  is  a mirror  wr^ipped  in  a 
brocade  bag,  which  is  never  renewed,  only  re-covered. 
Over  one  mirror  is  placed  a cage  of  unpainted  wood, 


284 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


which  is  covered  with  a curtain  of  coarse  silk,  which 
conceals  both  cage  and  box.  The  three  other  boxes 
stand  outside  this  cage,  but  are  also  covered,  and  the 
coverings  are  all  that  can  be  seen  when  the  shrines  are 
opened  on  festival  days.  It  is  in  these  mirrors  that  the 
spirits  of  the  gods  are  supposed  to  dwell.  Much  ingen- 
ious rubbish  has  been  devised  to  account  for  the  pres- 
ence of  a looking-glass  in  every  Shint6  temple  ; but  the 
fact  is,  that  the  original  Is4  mirror,  of  which  all  the 
rest  are  copies,  merely  represents  the  great  Sun  God- 
dess, the  supposed  ancestress  of  the  Mikado,  and,  to- 
gether with  the  sword,  which  constitute  the  Japanese 
regalia,  found  a resting-place  at  Is^,  after  marly  wan- 
derings, in  the  year  4 B.c.  The  polished  surface  is 
neither  a mirror  of  truth  nor  of  the  human  soul,  but 
is  simply  a very  intelligible  symbol  of  a rude  compound 
of  nature  and  myth  worship,  nature  as  the  Sun,  deified 
as  the  myth  Amaterasu  or  the  “ Sun  Goddess.” 

The  Geku  was  founded  in  the  year  478  a.d.,  and  it 
has  been  customary  from  time  immemorial  to  rebuild 
a temple  alternately  on  either  site  once  in  twenty 
years.  The  Naiku  has  the  same  fourfold  enclosure  as 
the  Geku.  There  are  several  smaller  shrines  within 
the  groves,  but  they  are  unimportant.  The  river  Izuzu 
flows  through  the  camphor  woods,  and  in  it  the  pil- 
grims wash  their  hands  before  worshipping  at  the 
temple. 

The  Is4  shrines  were  unknown  to  Europeans  till 
1872,  when  the  Government  very  liberally  gave  Mr. 
Satow  and  a small  party  of  foreigners  the  opportunity 
of  ^dsiting  them.  They  are  now  open  to  passport  hold- 
ers under  certain  restrictions,  and  are  singularly  inter- 
esting to  Jhose  who  have  made  either  an  original  or 
second-hand  study  of  Shint6,  for  relics  of  Is^  are  in 
every  house,  the  deities  of  Is^  are  at  the  head  of  the 


TUE  SniNTd  MIBBOE. 


285 


national  Pantheon,  a pilgrimage  to  Is4  forms  an  episode 
in  the  life  of  every  Shint6ist,  and  throughout  Japan 
thousands  of  heads  are  daily  bowed  in  the  direction  of 
“ the  Divine  Palaces  of  the  most  holy  gods  of  Isd.” 


286 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


ANOTHER  PILGRBIAGE. 

A Dieary  Shrine  — The  Legend  of  Futami-sama  — A Double  Temple 

— A Street  of  Shops  — The  Naiku  Shrine — Evening  Shadows  — 

The  Melancholy  of  Shinto — Unsanctified  Pilgrim  Resorts. 

Ya:«ada,  Ise,  November  11,  1878. 

In  order  to  complete  the  round  of  Shinto  pilgrim- 
age, we  left  Yamada  early  this  morning,  ferried  the 
Shiwoaigawa,  rested  at  Fntamiya,  a neat  village  en- 
tirely composed  of  tasteful  tea-houses,  went  on  to 
Futami-sama  in  our  kurumas^  and  then  walked  over 
the  sand  and  rocks  of  a very  pretty  coast  to  a resort 
of  pilgrims,  which,  even  at  this  dead  season,  attracts 
large  numbers,  many  of  whom  were  bands  of  young 
girls. ^ Shells,  coralline,  and  curiosities,  were  offered 
for  sale  at  booths  under  the  grey  cliffs,  together  with 
rude,  coloured  woodcuts  of  Fuji  by  sunrise,  as  seen 
from  the  shore  ; but  it  was  all  dull  and  grey,  and  Fuji 
had  to  be  taken  altogether  for  granted.  Farther  on 
there  were  booths  where  melancholy-looking  women 
sold  small  torli^  earthenware  frogs,  straw  circles,  and 
other  ex  votos^  and  then  we  came  rather  suddenly  on 
the  queerest  and  dreariest  shrine  of  pilgrimage  that  I 
have  ever  seen. 

A small  promontory  of  grey  sea  gravel,  with  a low 
wall  built  round  it,  extended  into  the  still,  grey  sea, 

1 I have  not  been  able  to  meet  with  any  European  who  has  visited 
this  remarkable  spot;  it  has  hitherto  escaped  even  Mr.  Satow’s  diligent 
researches  among  the  holy  places  of  Shinto. 


THE  LEGEND  OF  FUTAMI-SAMA. 


287 


terminating  in  a large  torii  of  unpainted  wood,  and  a 
wooden  altar  table,  on  which  were  laid  four  big,  green 
stones,  a piece  of  worm-eaten  wood,  two  zen  or  small 
tables  with  offerings  of  rice,  a number  of  bits  of  green 
pottery  an  inch  long,  with  a distant  resemblance  to 
frogs  [said  to  be  the  servants  of  the  gods],  three  wands 
with  gohei^  and  a number  of  rin.  On  and  about  it 
were  heaps  of  circles  of  twisted  straw',  with  gohei 
attached,  some  new  and  fresh,  others  old  and  musty  ; 
a more  grotesque  collection  of  rubbish  I have  never 
seen,  and  it  was  being  added  to  constantly  by  relays 
of  pilgrims.  This  promontory  points  to  three  isolated 
rocks,  one  behind  the  other,  on  which  the  dull  waves 
broke  in  drifts  of  foam.  The  centre  rock  is  of  impos- 
ing size.  It  has  a small  torii  on  its  summit,  and  a heavy 
straw  cable,  wound  round  it,  connects  it  with  the  rock 
between  it  and  the  shore,  heavy  straw  tassels  dangling 
between  the  two.^ 

We  then  travelled  for  some  miles  among  lovely, 
wooded  hills,  with  hamlets  and  rice  valleys,  to  the 
village  of  Assama,  left  our  kurumas^  ascended  the 
noble  hill  Assamayama,  w^here  flaming  maples  lighted 
up  forests  of  pine  and  cryptomeria,  rejoiced  in  the 
abundance  of  its  Microlepia  tenuifolia^  and  Gleichenia^ 
spent  an  hour  at  a very  large  tea-house  with  a mag- 
nificent view  near  the  summit,  and  enjoyed  what 
we  saw,  or  thought  we  saw,  of  a grand  panorama  of 
wooded  hills,  deep  valleys,  indented  coasts,  and  beauti- 


1 Mr.  Satow  has  since  told  me  that,  in  a Japanese  guide  to  Ise,  the 
following  legend  is  given  of  the  origin  of  the  sacredness  of  this  queer 
place:  — When  the  younger  brother  of  the  Sun  goddess  was  on  his  way 
to  the  lower  world,  he  was  overtaken  hy  night  at  this  spot,  and  sought 
shelter  with  an  old  couple.  To  protect  them  from  a pestilence,  which 
he  foresaw  would  attack  the  village,  he  fastened  a straw  rope  round 
their  house,  and  the  plague,  when  it  came,  left  it  untouched.  This  is 
the  origin  of  the  straw  hands  offered  at  this  shrine. 


288 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


ful  islands,  revelled  in  splotches  of  scarlet  and  crimson 
here  and  there  among  the  dark  coniferse,  marvelled  at 
a rude  double  temple,  one  half  Shinto,  with  the  chief 
object  of  adoration  a rude  block  of  rock  shaped  like  a 
junk,  tlie  other  half  filled  with  idols  of  Kwan-non,  shiv- 
ered for  lialf  an  hour  over  hibachi,,  hurried  down  the 
mountain,  regained  our  kurumas,,  and,  after  a short, 
picturesque  jolt,  rattled  down  a steep  wooded  hill  to 
the  entrance  to  the  Naiku  shrine.  Near  it  is  a most 
peculiar  street,  composed  entirely  of  most  peculiar 
shops,  which  consist  solely  of  covered  doma  or  “earth- 
spaces,”  with  hundreds  of  whistles,  wooden  flutes,  rice 
ladles,  and  small,  rude  images  of  Daikoku,  ranged,  on 
, racks  up  the  walls. 

The  entrance  to  the  shrines  is  very  grand;  a straight 
avenue  for  a short  distance,  from  whicli  one  road  turns 
to  the  right  under  a torii,,  and  then  goes  forward  to  a 
solid  stone  bridge,  while  the  main  road,  which  is  very 
broad  and  handsome,  turns  up-hill  towards  the  temples. 
On  the  left,  there  is  a building  for  the  sale  of  o-karai 
(see  p.  279),  a house  for  ofiScials,  a covered  platform 
for  sacred  dances,  and  a treasury  on  stilts  ; above  these, 
a terrace  of  large  stones  with  an  extensive  pebbled 
area,  enclosed  by  a straw  rope,  and  a flight  of  steps 
leading  to  the  shrines,  the  arrangement  of  which  is 
exactly  that  of  the  Geku,  except  that  the  principal 
entrance  is  closed  by  doors  instead  of  a curtain.  There 
our  runners  “ worshipped,”  and  threw  down  their  rin 
on  a white  cloth.  Do  they  think,  I wonder,  that  wo 
have  added  the  gods  of  Ise  to  our  objects  of  worship  ? 

The  sombre  evening  fell  fast,  and  in  its  shadows  the 
darkness  of  the  superb  groves  of  camphor  and  crypto- 
meria,  some  of  which  are  of  colossal  size,  became  abso- 
lutely funereal.  We  were  the  only  visitors ; a dismal 
wind  sighed  through  the  trees,  dim  lamps,  one  by  one, 


UN  SANCTIFIED  PILGRIM  RESORTS.  289 

began  to  glimmer  througli  the  gloom,  our  footsteps 
sounded  harshly  on  the  gravel,  and  in  the  profound 
melancholy  which  surrounds  the  shrines  of  a faith 
which  was  always  dead,  and  has  never  lifted  men 
towards  a higher  life,^  I involuntarily  quickened  my 
pace,  for  I felt  as  if  the  ghosts  of  the  dead  ages  were 
after  me ! It  was  good  to  see  houses  and  living  men 
again,  and  to  be  able  to  liire  lanterns  for  our  kurumas. 

A fine  road  runs  from  the  Geku  to  the  Naiku  shrines, 
a distance  of  about  miles,  terminating  at  the  Naiku 
in  a fine  stone  bridge,  with  uprights  with  bronze  finials, 
and  a lofty  torii.  The  towns  Uji,  Ushidani,  and  Furui- 
chi,  occupy  much  of  the  distance.  They  flourish  by  the 
entertainment  of  pilgrims,  and  the  sale  of  trumpery 
relics,  and  in  the  dim  light  looked  solid  and  handsome- 
with  their  long  lines  of  yadoyas.,  tea-houses,  and 

various  places  of  entertainment,  suggestive  of  everything 
but  sanctity.  Along  the  road,  at  suitable  distances  on 
both  sides,  are  grand  stone  lanterns,  roofed  witli  bronze, 
standing  on  stone  pedestals  of  flve  steps  each,  and  their 
dim,  melancholy  light,  altogether  unworthy  of  their 
superb  appearance,  made  the  descent  into  the  absolute 
darkness  of  Yamada  almost  appalling. 

Our  host  has  come  in  to  ask  us  to  wiite  lines  of 
poetry  to  hang  upon  his  walls,  so  I must  conclude. 

I.  L.  B. 


1 See  Appendix  B. 


290 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


LAKE  BIWA. 

My  Jrwrwma-mnner  — Stupid  Curiosity  — Tlie  City  of  Tsu  — A Buddh- 
ist Temple — Hoad  Mending — The  Pass  of  Tsuzaka  — The  Td 
kaidd  — Lake  Biwa  — The  “ Temperance  Pledge  ” — A Matsuri. 

Otsu,  Lake  Biwa,  November  15. 

Three  more  days  of  travelling  have  brought  us  here, 
and  in  three  hours  we  shall  be  in  Kiyoto.  I wish  we 
were  beginniug  our  tour  instead  of  ending  it,  or  rather 
that  we  were  starting  on  another.  Everything  has  been  ' 
so  smooth  and  pleasant,  and  so  unexpectedly  interesting, 
and  the  people  have  been  so  kind  and  courteous,  as  they 
always  are,  away  from  the  beaten  track.  ]\Irs.  Gulick’s 
cheerfulness  and  kindness  have  never  varied,  and,  if  I 
had  ever  felt  inclined  to  grumble,  the  unwearied  good 
nature,  brightness,  and  kindness  of  my  runner  would 
have  rebuked  me.  I cannot  tell  you  how  sorry  I am  to 
part  with  this  faithful  creature,  or  how  I shall  miss  his 
willing  services,  hideous  face,  and  blanket-siv^athed  form. 
But  no,  he  is  not  hideous  I No  face,  beaming  Avith  hon- 
esty and  kindness,  can  ever  be  so,  and  I like  to  look  at 
liis,  and  to  hope  that  one  day  it  may  be  said  of  liim,  as 
of  a cliild,  “of  such  is  the  kingdom  of  heaven.” 

We  left  Yamada  early  on  the  12th,  retraced  our  route 
as  far  as  Rokken,  and  reached  the  important  town  of 
Tsu,  late  in  the  afternoon,  by  a line  road  leading  through 
a very  prosperous  and  populous  country  of  rice-swamps 
of  large  size,  between  Avooded  hills  and  the  sea.  The 
evening  was  cold  and  clear,  and  the  toAAUi  looked  its  best. 


A THADIJVG  CITY. 


291 


The  crowded  yadoya  was  very  unpromising-looking, 
but  we  got  a quiet  back  room,  and,  by  dint  of  hugging 
hihachi^  and  loading  ourselves  with  futons^  managed  to 
keep  ourselves  from  freezing,  and  not  to  be  more  than 
a little  stiff  with  cold  when  we  got  up  the  next  morning 
to  find  a brilliant  frosty  day  with  a keen  north  wind. 
The  servants  watched  our  ways  with  stupid  curiosity, 
asked  us  if  we  slept  in  our  shoes,  and  remarked  that  it 
was  very  long  since  we  had  blacked  our  teeth ! Police-  • 
men  with  courteous  manners  paid  us  a visit ; in  the 
evening  Mrs.  Gulick  went  to  a lonely  quarter  of  the 
town  to  call  upon  the  parents  of  a girl  who  had  been  in 
the  American  School  in  KiyOto,  and  the  next  morning, 
the  father  returned  the  visit,  dressed  very  richly  in  silk, 
and  bringing  a present  of  fine  sweetmeats,  with  a sym- 
bolical piece  of  seaweed  attached. 

Few  people  in  England  have  heard  of  Tsu,  and  when 
I proposed  to  visit  it,  I found  few  among  the  foreigners 
at  K6be  who  knew  of  it,  and  it  lies  so  off  the  track  of 
foreign  travel,  that  Europeans  are  a rare  spectacle,  and, 
consequently,  we  trailed  a prodigious  crowd  after  us, 
with  policemen  hovering  upon  its  skirts  to  keep  us  from 
undue  pressure.  This  obscure  Tsu  is  a city  of  83,000 
people,  divided  into  three  parts  by  rivers  which  are 
crossed  by  fine  bridges,  with  long,  parallel  streets  crossed 
by  shorter  ones  at  right  angles,  fine  public  buildings,  a 
normal  school,  a new  hospital  on  a height,  two  streets  of 
temples,  an  open  room  inscribed  in  English  with  “News 
' for  every  man’s  reading,”  and  chairs  and  tables  covered 
with  newspapers  inside,  a great  trade  in  coarse  blue  pot- 
tery, silks,  and  green  mosquito  gauze,  curio  shops  in 
numbers,  with  the  finest  antique  bronzes  I have  seen, 
and  small  pieces  of  old  gold  lacquer  on  which  connois- 
seurs  might  spend  a fortune,  pottery  and  sweetmeat 
shops,  the  remains  of  a daimiy6''\  castle,  with  a fine  moat. 


292 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


stone-faced  embankments,  with  towers  at  their  corners, 
a large  telegraph  office,  and,  in  the  outskirts,  rows  of 
wheelwrights’  sheds,  where  men  were  making  cart- 
wheels without  tires.  The  main  street  terminates  in  a 
fine  double-roofed  gateway  and  a pavement  lined  with 
booths,  leading  into  temple  grounds,  as  at  Asakusa. 
There  is  a popular  temple,  crowded  and  shabby,  but  the 
lanterns  in  its  portico,  the  candles  and  lamps  by  the 
shrine,  the  cat-like  tread  of  priests,  the  bell-accompanied 
litanies,  and  the  mumbled  petitions  of  worshippers,  hea- 
then though  they  are,  were,  in  some  sense,  refreshing 
after  the  intolerable  emptiness  of  Shintd. 

Tsu,  though  so  near  the  shrines  of  Is^,  is  a Buddhist 
city,  and  its  two  streets  of  temples,  witli  their  grand 
gateways,  paved  courts,  and  priests’  houses,  are  quite 
imposing.  Some  of  these  gateways  are  pierced  by 
“ Saxon  ” arches,  the  only  architectural  arches  I have 
seen  in  Japan.  Somehow  I left  Tsu  with  regret ; it 
looked  a very  prosperous  and  thoroughly  Japanese  city, 
and  the  people  were  remarkably  kind  also.  We  left  at 
eleven,  when  the  sun  was  high  and  bright,  ligliting  up 
the  shining  evergreens  and  glowing  autumnal  tints  of  a 
pretty,  hilly  region,  where  villages  with  their  deep  brown 
roofs  peeped  from  among  pines  and  maples.  Soon  after 
leaving  Tsu  we  diverged  to  the  village  of  Isshinden, 
visited  two  of  the  grandest  temples  in  Japan,  which  ap- 
pear to  be  imknown  to  foreigners,  had  a delightful  day’s 
journey  tlirough  very  pretty  country,  and,  in  the  after- 
noon, passing  under  a fine  torii.^  struck  the  beaten  track 
at  S4ki  on  the  Tdkaid6,  the  historic  highway  of  Japaji, 
the  great  road  from  T6kiy6  to  Kiy6to.  From  S^ki  to 
Otsu  it  is  a narrow  carriage-road,  in  some  places  full  of 
ruts  and  holes,  the  latter  having  been  “ mended  ” for  the 
recent  journey  of  the  Mikado,  by  being  filled  up  with 
twigs  covered  with  mats.  After  leaving  Seki  it  plunges 


A PASS  OK  THE  t6kAID6, 


293 


at  once  into  lovely  country,  pursues  the  course  of  a 
mountain  stream,  with  which  it  is  shut  in  by  steep, 
picturesque  liills,  and  then  further  progress  is  apparently 
barred  by  a ridge  with  a beautiful  village  with  houses  on 
stone  terraces  clustering  on  its  wooded  acclivity.  This 
mountain  wall,  the  pass  of  Tsuzuka,  is  crossed  by  six- 
teen or  seventeen  zigzags,  from  50  to  100  feet  in  length. 


TEMPLE  GATEWAY  AT  ISSHINDEN. 


built  out  from  the  hill-side  on  fine  terraces,  very  steep, 
with  sharp  turns,  and  stout  railings  to  prevent  the  un- 
wary from  tumbling  over.  We  climbed  it  in  the  lemon- 
coloured  twilight,  revelling  in  the  beautiful  view,  and 
enjoying  the  balsamic  odours  of  pines  which  came  up 
on  the  frosty  air,  got  lanterns  on  the  summit,  and,  after 
a rattling  run  of  an  hour  in  the  darkness,  reached  the 


294 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


town  of  Tsucliiyama,  whose  pine-covered  hills  stood  out 
boldly  against  a starlit  sky;  slept  in  a large  yadoya., 
where  the  servants  showed  unusual  agility;  hugged 
liibaclii.,  were  half-frozen  during  the  night  in  a detached 
suite, of  rooms  in  a garden  ; yesterday  crossed  the  Matsu- 
no-gawa,  and  followed  its  course  for  some  time,  and 
t hen,  after  some  miles  of  wrinkled  white  sandhills,  ar- 
rived at  Lake  Biwa,  crossed  the  Setagawa,  paid  a second 
visit  to  the  beauties  of  Ishiyama,  and  reached  the  inter- 
minable street  of  Otsu  after  dark. 

The  Tokaid6  is  the  most  beaten  track  of  travel  in 
Japan,  but  in  this  cold  weather  travellers  are  scarce, 
and  we  and  our  runners  were  the  only  guests  in  the 
great  rambling  tea-house  last  night.  From  Seki  here 
there  are  long  towns  and  long  villages  nearly  the  whole 
way,  with  numbers  of  great  tea-houses  and  yadoyas  with 
from  twenty  to  forty  rooms,  together  and  in  detached 
suites,  with  running  streams,  stone  bridges,  and  all  the 
quaintnesses  possible  to  the  conceit  of  the  owners. 
The  house  masters  and  mistresses  are  active  and  polite, 
the  servants  agile  and  well  dressed,  the  accommodation 
admirable,  the  equipments  beautiful  — in  short,  the 
T6kaid6  is  the  Japan  of  tourists,  and  needs  no  descrip- 
tion of  mine.  The  industries  of  its  villages  are  mani- 
fold, some  produce  and  sell  nothing  but  sake  gourds  of 
all  sizes  (a  sakS  gourd  being  an  essential  part  of  the 
equipment  of  most  Japanese  travellers),  others  make 
shrines,  and  ornamental  baskets  and  basket  hats  are  the 
specialties  of  Mina-Kochi,  a large  town  with  line  stone- 
faced  embankments,  the  remains  of  a daimiyd's  castle. 

Lake  Biwa  is  a noble  sheet  of  water  forty-five  miles 
long,^  its  west  shore  and  head  dark  with  masses  of 

1 I have  omitted  my  letters  from  Lake  Biwa  and  its  neighbourhood, 
as  well  as  most  of  those  from  Kiyoto,  because  these  regions  are  on  the 
“beaten  track;”  but  no  popular  resorts  in  Japan  are  lovelier  than 


TUB  “ TEMPEBANCE  PLEDGE” 


295 


piled-up,  forest-covered  mountains,  and  its  east  a smil- 
ing region  of  garden  cultivation.  It  is  said  that  besides 
Otsu,  Hikone,  and  some  other  towns,  1800  thriving  vil- 
lages fringe  its  coasts,  its  waters  are  whitened  with 
sails,  and  a brisk  traffic  is  also  carried  on  by  small 


steamers.  It  is  a great  resort  of  pleasure-seekers,  and 
its  tea-houses  are  famous. 

Near  Kusatsu  I noticed  some  men’s  top-knots  hung 
up  on  a shrine,  and  found,  on  inquiiy,  that  it  is  not  un- 
common for  people  who  have  suffered  very  deeply  from 
the  evils  of  intemperance,  to  take  a voav  of  “ total  absti- 
nence ” and  offer  it  to  the  god  Kompira,  wlio  is  sup- 

Hiyeizan,  the  “priests’  mountain,”  Sakamoto  the  “priests’  village,” 
and  the  hill  groves  and  temples  of  Miidera  and  of  Ishiyama-no-dera  — 
scenes  which  Japanese  art  and  literature  are  perpetually  reproducing  in 
painting  and  poetry. 


296 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


posed  to  take  special  cognisance  of  vows,  and  to  punish 
those  who  break  them  with  great  severity.  Such  per- 
sons cut  off  their  top-lmots  and  hang  them  up  on  the 
shrines  of  this  idol  in  token  of  their  resolves.  Japan 
is  not  a quarter  as  intemperate  as  Britain,  but  still 
drunkenness  is  one  of  its  great  evils,  and  I have  seen 
some  scenes  of  dissolute  dissipation,  specially  in  the 
gardens  of  Shinkakuji,  near  Kiy6to,  which  I shall  not 
soon  forget. 

On  arriving  here  we  found  the  town  illuminated  with 
paper  lanterns,  and  that,  by  exceptional  good  fortune, 
we  had  lighted  upon  the  grandest  matsuri  of  the  year, 
that  of  the  god  Shuinpmi}^!.  Thousands  of  strangers 
had  already  arrived,  and  thousands  more  are  pouring  in 
from  Kiy6to  and  the  countless  villages  of  Lake  Biwa ; 
but  full  as  Otsu  is,  our  worthy  host  only  asks  8d.  each 
for  our  room  — a very  good  one  — a liibacM.^  andon.,  and 
unlimited  rice  and  tea  for  two  meals.  We  hurried 
through  a supper  of  bonito  steak  with  a carrion-like 
flavour,  and  spent  the  evening  among  the  crowds  out- 
side, seeing  a veritable  transformation  scene,  for  the 
long,  mean  streets  were  glorified  by  light  and  colour, 
the  shop  fronts  were  gone,  and  arches  and  festoons  of 
coloured  lanterns  turned  the  whole  into  fairyland. 

To  begin  with,  every  house  had  a lantern  three  feet 
long  hanging  outside  it,  with  the  characters  forming 
the  god’s  name  on  one  side  and  a black  or  red  tomoyS 
on  the  other. 

The  removal  of  fusuma  had  transformed  shops  into 
large  spaces,  with  backs  and  sides  of  splendid  folding 
screens  with  peonies,  lotuses,  and  irises  painted  on  a 
dead  gold  ground.  The  mats  were  covered  with  KiySto 
rugs ; a hihachi.,  and  two  or  tliree  fanciful  lamps  were  in 
the  centre  of  each ; a man  crouched  over  every  hihach^ 
and  in  most  cases  two  or  three  friends  were  smoking  or 


TABLEAUX  YIVANT&. 


297 


sipping  tea  with  him.  Apparently  the  people  vied  with 
each  other  in  the  beauty  of  the  decorations  which  they 
displayed  to  the  streets.  Some  of  the  houses  really 
looked  like  fairy  scenes,  especially  two,  in  which  the 
trappings  of  the  idol  cars  were  displayed,  mythological 
scenes  in  very  ancient  needlework,  so  exquisitely  fine, 
that  for  some  time  I supposed  them  to  be  paintings, 
lacquer  and  gold  filagree  stands  supporting  valuable 
rock  crystal  balls,  and  black  and  gold  lacquer  railings 
— all  the  bequest  of  centuries  of  heathenism.  On 
every  floor  there  was  a vase  of  magnificent  chrysanthe- 
mums, and  an  orderly  crowd  of  many  thousands  quietly 
promenaded  the  narrow  streets,  admir- 
ing and  comparing,  the  tableaux  vivants 
in  the  house  fronts  nowise  moved  by 
all.  At  the  intersections  of  all  the 
streets  there  were  strings  of  lanterns 
one  above  another  in  harmoniously 
blended  colours  to  a height  of  twenty- 
five  feet,  and  matsuri  cars  for  to-day’s 
procession  twenty  feet  high,  with  canopied  platforms  on 
their  tops,  reached  by  gangways  from  the  house  roofs, 
with  festoons  of  lanterns,  and  on  each  car  ten  boys 
beating  drums  and  gongs,  and  two  men  playing  flutes, 
kept  up  a din  truly  diabolical. 

We  dived  down  a dark,  lonely  street,  and  passing 
through  a slit  in  the  wall  of  the  court  of  the  great 
Shint6  temple,  came  upon  a blaze  of  light,  and  a din  of 


TOJttOYB.* 


1 The  tomoy€  is  found  throughout  Japan.  All  terminal  tiles  of  roofs 
or  walls  which  do  not  hear  the  badge  of  the  owner’s  family,  are  im- 
pressed with  it.  It  is  seen  on  one  side  of  all  lanterns  used  in  matsuri 
illuminations,  on  all  drums  at  the  tanabata  festival,  among  the  wood- 
carving and  arabesques  of  temples,  and  is  the  most  common  ornament 
in  the  Empire,  besides  being  the  second  badge  of  the  once  powerful 
house  of  Arima.  It  is  supposed  (in  Buddhism)  to  be  a sign  of  the  heap- 
ing up  of  myriads  of  good  influences,  good  luck,  long  life,  etc. ; but  it 
seems  impossible  to  explain  its  origin. 


298 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN.  ^ 


revelry  partly  inspired  by  sake.  Along  the  pavements 
there  were  brilliantly-lighted  booths  for  the  sale  of 
oranges  and  persimmons,  and  heathenish  toys  of  all 
kinds,  among  which  toy  torii.,  mikoshi  or  arks  containing 
“ divine  ” property  or  emblems,  shrines,  and  festival 
cars  were  selling  in  hundreds,  to  decorated  doll  chil- 
dren. The  temple  platforms  were  illuminated,  and 
mikoshi  of  black  lacquer,  gorgeous  with  gold,  were  dis- 
played under  their  canopies ; priestesses  in  white  ki- 
mono and  crimson  silk  hakama.,  with  attendants  beating 
small  drums,  and  vases  of  chrysanthemum  and  Gleyera 
Japonica  around  them,  sat  on  other  platforms,  painted 
and  motionless ; a temple  attendant  thumped  a big 
drum,  and  piles  of  plain  deal  zen.,  with  offerings  of  Cley- 
era  Japonica^  rice,  and  sake.,  were  heaped  up  before  the 
principal  idol’s  shrine.  The  shrine  of  the  fox  god  was 
also  a great  centre  of  attraction,  and  round  shrines  and 
platforms  in  the  soft,  coloured  light  surged  a crowd  of 
men,  women,  and  children,  dressed  in  their  best,  buy- 
ing, selling,  laughing,  singing,  clattering  bells,  and 
blowing  flutes  — light,  mirth,  and  music  being  at  their 
height  about  ten,  when  a few  small  drops  of  rain  fell, 
the  crowd  melted  away,  and  in  a few  minutes  the 
streets  were  dark  and  silent. 

But  this  morning  is  fine,  and  Otsu  is  gay  and 
crowded.  At  an  early  hour,  with  much  discord  sup- 
posed to  be  music,  the  mikoshi  were  brought  in  state 
from  the  sacred  platforms,  and  were  placed  on  the  cars, 
which  are  being  dragged  through  the  streets  at  the  rate 
of  a mile  in  an  hour  and  a half,  the  priestesses  per- 
formed a sacred  dance,  the  offerings  were  multiplied, 
and  the  festival  is  at  its  height.  Otsu  is  famous  for  the 
number  and  magnificence  of  its  matsuri  cars,  of  which 
there  are  thirteen,  buc  we  only  saw  three.  The  Shint6 
“godowns”  must  be  treasures  of  priceless  antique  art, 
bare  as  the  temples  are. 


MAT  sum  CARS. 


299 


Each  car  consists  of  a massive,  oblong,  black  lacquer 
body  on  a lacquer  platform,  on  two  solid,  tireless  wheels 
of  brown  lacquer,  with  a smaller  wheel  in  front.  On 
the  top  there  is  a platform  with  a heavy  railing  of  black 
and  gold  lacquer,  a solid  back,  and  a lofty  canopy  of 
black  lacquer  lined  with  red  lacquer,  heavily  gilded, 
and  with  a big  gilded  eagle  at  its  summit.  In  front 
there  were  male  and  female  figures,  one  standing,  the 
other  seated,  in  cloth  of  gold  dresses  of  great  beauty. 
Behind  these,  ten  boys,  as  last  night,  were  ceaseless!}^ 
beating  drums  and  gongs,  and  two  men  were  playing 
fiutes,  all  at  the  level  of  the  house  roofs.  Below  the 
platform  there  were  valances  of  very  rich  needlework, 
and  at  the  back  a kakemono  of  glorious  needlework, 
almost  or  quite  priceless,  the  ground  being  worked  in  a 
fine  gold  thread  no  longer  made.  An  antiquity  of  eight 
centuries  is  claimed  for  these  decorations.  The  cars 
were  dragged  along  by  a curious  team,  marshalled  by 
two  men  in  glazed  peaked  hats  and  winged  garments  of 
calico,  carrying  ancient  staffs  with  rings  at  the  top  of 
much-corroded  iron,  such  as  are  often  placed  in  the 
hands  of  statues  of  Buddhas,  the  team  consisting  of 
thirty  men  in  blue  and  white  striped  trousers  and  dark- 
blue  haori  with  the  characters  representing  the  god 
upon  them.  These  tugged  the  unwieldy  erections  by 
stout  ropes,  and  as  many  more,  similarly  attired,  as- 
sisted the  ponderous  wheels  with  levers.  The  master 
of  the  ceremonies  was  a manikin  in  a European  dress 
suit  of  black  broadcloth,  with  a broad  expanse  of  shii  t 
front,  and  a white  necktie  with  long  ends ! ! ! 

Kiyoto.^  November  16.  — We  arrived  here  yesterday 
morning,  and  it  is  a tribute  to  the  security  which  for- 
eigners enjoy  in  this  orderly  and  peaceable  land,  that 
two  foreign  ladies,  without  even  a servant,  have  trav- 
elled for  nearly  200  miles,  and  mainly  through  a region 


300 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


in  which  Europeans  are  rarely  seen,  not  only  without  a 
solitary  instance  of  extortion,  incivility,  or  annoyance, 
but  receiving  courtesy  and  kindness  everywhere. 


I.  L.  B. 


ITINERARY, 


301 


ITINERARY  OF  ROUTE  FROM  KIy6tO  TO  YAMADA 
(Shrines  of  Ise),  AND  BY  TSU  TO  KlYOTO. 


m,  Ch6 

Kiyoto  to  Nara 11  20 

Nara  to  Tambaichi 2 18 

Miwa 2 5 

Hasd-dera  or  Uatsusd 1 23 

Haibara 1 8 

Iligeuashi 2 23 

Nobari-shita . . 2 12 

Awoyama 4 3 

Rokken 4 13 

Matsuzaka 1 18 

Kusbida 1 26 

Yamada 1 

Rokken 5 8 

Tsu 3 

Kubota 1 

Kusubara 3 

Sdki 1 

By  TOkaido  to  Kiydlo 24 


73  23 


About  185^  miles. 


302 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


PROSPECTS  OF  CHRISTIANITY. 

Water-Waj's  in  Osaka  — Glimpses  of  Domestic  Life  — Ladies’  Pets 
— The  Position  of  "Women — Imperial  Example  — The  Medical 
Mission  — A Japanese  Benevolent  Institution  — A Comfortless 
Arrival  — A Christian  Gathering  — The  Prison  at  Otsu  — Pros- 
pects of  Christianity  — Blankness  of  Heathenism. 

Kobe,  December  3, 1878. 

On  my  way  from  Kiy6to  I spent  three  clays  at  Osaka 
with  Miss  M , who,  having  the  charge  of  two  Japan- 

ese children,  and  beuig  in  Japanese  employment,  is 
allowed  to  live  in  a little  house  in  the  most  densely 
peopled  part  of  the  great  commercial  capital  with  its 
600,000  souls.  Aided  by  her  kindness  and  her  small 
amount  of  Japanese^  I saw  many  of  the  Osaka  sights 
and  most  of  the  huge,  busy  city,  but  was  impressed  by 
nothing  so  much  as  by  the  numerous  waterways  and 
their  innumerable  bridges,  a few  of  which  are  stone  or 
iron  ; the  canals  quayed  with  stone ; the  massive  flights 
of  stone  stairs  down  to  the  water;  the  houses  with 
overhanging  balconies  draped  with  trailers ; the  broad, 
quayed  roadways  along  the  rivers,  with  weeping  wil- 
lows on  one  side  and  ancient  yasliikis  and  rice  godowns 
on  the  other;  the  hundreds  of  junks  and  small  boats 
moving  up  or  down  with  every  tide ; the  signs  of  an 
enormo  js  commerce  everywhere,  the  floating  tea-houses, 
and  house-boats  with  matted  roofs,  and  the  islands  with 
tea-houses  and  pleasure-grounds.  But  the  sights  of 
Osaka,  like  those  of  Kiy6to,  are  on  the  best  beaten 


GLIMPSES  OF  DOMESTIC  LIFE. 


303 


tourist  track,  and  you  can  read  more  or  less  about  them 
in  every  book  on  Japan. 

I made  the  acquaintance  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Warren  of 
the  C.  M.  S.,  and  of  Dr.  Taylor  and  others  connected 
v ith  the  American  mission.  Mr.  Warren  has  great 
facility  in  colloquial  Japanese,  and  a hearty,  hopeful 
spirit,  preaches  and  itinerates  extensively,  has  a daily 
evening  service  attended  by  from  forty  to  fifty  people, 
and  has  large  expectations  of  success.  The  American 
ladies  conduct  girls’  schools,  but  very  specially  en- 
deavour to  make  acquaintance  with  Japanese  women 
in  their  own  homes  with  the  assistance  Nof  a Japanese 
Bible-woman,  and  I had  some  curious  glimpses  into  the 
domestic  life  of  the  richer  people,  one  being  a visit  to  a 
lady  whose  husband  holds  high  official  rank,  and  whose 
house  is  purely  Japanese.  Miss  had  become  ac- 

quainted with  her  through  her  desire  to  know  the  way 
in  which  European  mothers  care  for  their  own  and  their 
children’s  health,  which  led  the  way  to  intelligent  in- 
quiries into  Christianity.  On  our  visit  we  were  con- 
ducted through  various  large  rooms  into  a low  one 
about  ten  feet  square,  with  lattice  fret-work,  only  ad- 
mitting a dim  light.  The  lady,  who  is  haggard  and  by 
no  means  pretty,  but  who,  fortunately  for  herself,  is  a 
mother,  received  us  with  much  dignity,  and  immediately 
opened  the  conversation  by  inquiries  about  the  position 
of  European  women.  She  looked  intelligent,  restless, 
and  unliappy,  and,  I thought,  chafed  under  the  re- 
stiaints  of  custom,  as  she  said  that  no  Japanese  woman 
could  start  for  foreign  countries  alone,  and  she  envied 
Ibreigners  their  greater  liberty.  She  produced  a map 
and  traced  my  route  upon  it,  but  seemed  more  inter- 
ested in  other  countries  than  in  her  own.  A very 
pretty  girl,  with  singular  grace  and  charm  of  manner, 
came  in  and  sat  down  beside  her,  equally  well  dressed 


304 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


in  silk,  but  not  a legal  wife.  The  senior  wife  obtains 
great  credit  for  her  kind  and  sisterly  treatment  of  her, 
which,  according  to  Japanese  notions,  is  the  path  of 
true  wisdom.  There  was  an  attendant  in  the  shape  of 
a detestable  “Chin,”  something  like  a King  Charles’s 
spaniel  with  a broken  nose : an  artificially  dwarfed 
creature,  with  glassy,  prominent  eyes,  very  cross  and 
delicate,  and  dressed  in  a warm  coat.  These  objection- 
able lap-dogs  are  “ ladies’  pets  ” all  over  Japan. 

My  impression  is,  that,  according  to  our  notions, 
the  Japanese  wife  is  happier  in  the  poorer  than  in  the 
richer  classes.  She  works  hard,  but  it  is  rather  as 
the  partner  than  the  drudge  of  her  husband.  Kor,  in  the 
same  class,  are  the  unmarried  girls  secluded,  but,  within 
certain  limits,  they  possess  complete  freedom.  Women 
undoubtedly  enjoy  a more  favourable  position  than  in 
most  other  heathen  countries,  and  wives  are  presuma- 
bly virtuous.  Infanticide  is  very  rare.  The  birth  of  a 
daughter  is  far  from  being  an  occasion  of  mourning, 
and  girls  receive  the  same  affection  and  attention  as 
boys,  and  for  their  sphere  are  equally  carefully  edu- 
cated. 

The  women  of  the  upper  classes  are  much  secluded, 
and  always  go  out  with  attendants.  In  the  middle 
ranks  it  is  not  proper  for  a wife  to  be  seen  abroad  in 
her  husband’s  absence,  and,  to  be  above  suspicion, 
many,  under  these  circumstances,  take  an  old  woman  to 
keep  them  company.  There  are  many  painful  and  evil 
customs  to  which  I cannot  refer,  and  which  are  not 
likely  to  be  overthrown  except  by  the  reception  of  a 
true  Christianity,  some  of  them  arising  out  of  morbidly 
exaggerated  notions  of  filial  piety;  but  even  in  past 
times  women  have  not  been  “ downtrodden,”  but  have 
occupied  a liigh  place  in  history.  To  say  nothing  of 
tlie  fact  that  the  greatest  of  the  national  divinities  is  a 


THE  MEDICAL  MISSION. 


305 


goddess^  nine  empresses  have  ruled  Japan  by  “ divine 
right,”  and  in  literature,  especially  in  poetry,  women 
divide  the  foremost  places  with  men. 

At  present  the  reform  in  the  marriage-laws  which 
legalises  the  marriage  of  members  of  different  classes, 
the  establishment  of  high-class  schools  for  young  women, 
the  training  in  the  mission-schools,  the  widening  of  the 
area  of  female  industrial  occupation,  the  slow  but  sure 
influence  of  European  female  example,  the  weakening 
of  the  influence  of  Buddhism,  which,  in  its  rigid  dogma, 
exalts  the  conventual  above  the  domestic  life,  and  above 
all,  the  slow  permeation  of  at  least  a portion  of  the 
community  with  Christian  ideas  on  the  true  dignity  and 
position  of  maid,  matron,  and  mother,  and  the  example 
of  the  gentle  Empress  Haruku,  who  timidly  takes  tlie 
lead  in  all  that  specially  concerns  the  elevation  of  her 
sex,  are  all  tending  to  bring  about  a better  future  for 
Japanese  women,  who,  even  at  the  worst,  enjoy  an 
amount  of  liberty,  considerate  care,  and  respect,  whicii 
I am  altogether  surprised  to  find  in  a heathen  country. 
It  is  even  to  be  hoped  that  things  may  not  go  too  far, 
and  that  the  fear  of  the  Meiroku  Zasshi.,  that  “ the  pow- 
er of  women  will  grow  gradually,  and  eventually  become 
so  overwhelming  that  it  will  be  impossible  to  control  it,” 
may  not  be  realised ! ^ 

The  Medical  Mission,  both  at  Hiogo  and  Osaka,  is 
under  the  charge  of  Dr.  Taylor,  a blunt  and  unaffected, 
as  well  as  zealous  and  honest,  missionary,  by  no  means 
enthusiastic,  or  inclined  to  magnify  what  is  emphatically 
“ a day  of  small  things.”  I visited  both  his  dispensaries, 

1 "Within  the  last  few  months,  since  the  establishment  of  representa- 
tive Local  Assemblies  with  control  over  local  taxation,  women  have 
been  awaking  to  an  idea  of  their  “ rights,”  and  in  some  cases  have  actu- 
ally written  to  the  papers,  stating  that,  where  they  pay  taxes  and  hear 
part  of  the  national  burdens,  it  is  only  just  that  they  should  exercise  the 
elective  franchise! 


306 


UNBEATEN  TEACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


or  rather  consulting-rooms,  and  it  is  interesting  to  ob- 
serve that  both  he  and  Dr.  Berry  (wlio  has  been  very 
successful,  and  has  won  the  goodwill  of  the  Govern- 
ment by  his  courtesy  and  suavity)  employ  a different 
manner  of  working  from  that  pursued  by  Dr.  Palm  at 
hJiigata,  being  less  independent,  and  less  apparently  mis- 
sionary. Dr.  Taylor  works  almost  exclusively  through 
the  native  doctors,  and  receives  no  money  either  for 
ad\dce  or  medicine.  He  acts  much  as  a consulting-physi- 
cian. The  doctors  bring  the  patients  to  him,  he  writes 
prescriptions,  which  are  made  up  at  any  drug  store,  and 
afterwards  lectures  on  the  more  important  cases.  There 
are  500  Japanese  doctors  in  Osaka,  and  a number  of 
these  have  organised  a private  hospital,  of  which  they 
have  asked  Dr.  T.  to  be  consulting-physician.  The  six 
whom  I saw  were  remarkably  shrewd,  superior-looking 
men.  Dr.  Taylor  has  many  requests  to  go  to  outlying 
towns  at  stated  intervals,  and  in  these  cases  the  doctors 
pay  his  expenses. 

The  dispensary  in  Hiogo  is  strictly  a Japanese  Benev- 
olent Institution.,  to  which  eight  Japanese  doctors  give 
monthly  subscriptions,  besides  gratuitous  advice  to  the 
very  poor.  Dr.  Taylor  goes  there,  and  sees  about  forty 
patients  every  Monday,  his  travelling  expenses  being 
paid.  Where  people  cannot  pay  for  medicines,  etc.,  a 
group  of  benevolent  persons  subscribes  to  procure 
them,  and  the  K6be  native  Christians  provide  medicines 
and  other  requisites  for  all  indigent  persons  belonging 
to  their  body.  In  surgical  cases  from  a distance  a room 
is  taken  at  a neighbouring  yadoya.,  and  the  patient  pa^’s 
a nurse ; but  in  the  case  of  the  destitute,  all  the  ex- 
penses are  borne  by  the  subscriptions  to  the  dispensary. 
Dr.  Taylor  prays  when  the  patients  have  assembled,  but 
does  not  give  an  address. 

At  Ikinagi,  forty  miles  from  K6be,  the  Japanese  doc- 


A COMFORTLESS  ARRIVAL. 


307 


tors  conduct  a similar  dispensary,'  organised  by  Dr. 
Berry,  and  dispensaries  now  exist  in  many  other  places, 
as  the  indirect  result  of  medical  missionary  work,  and 
the  now  “flourishing”  mission-stations  of  Sanda,  Hi- 
kone,  and  Akashi,  were  all  opened  by  direct  medical 
missionary  effort. 

On  November  26,  Mrs.  Gulick  and  I went  a day’s 
journey  into  the  mountains,  through  exquisite  scenery, 
glorious  with  autumnal  colouring,  to  Arima,  a pictur- 
esque village,  much  resorted  to  by  foreigners  during 
the  heat  of  summer,  and  famous  for  bamboo-baskets 
and  straw-boxes,  which  can  now  be  bought  in  any  quan- 
tity in  London  ; and  from  thence  rattled  down,  through 
a woodland  region,  to  Sanda,  a town  of  2000  people 
(formerly  a daimiyo'B  town),  in  a rice  valley.  We 
reached  it  in  the  dusk  of  a chilly  November  afternoon, 
but  I will  not  dwell  upon  the  cold  and  discomfort,  or  tell 
how  we  got  the  key  of  an  unoccupied  house,  all  damp 
and  decayed-looking,  with  the  floor  littered  with  the 
rubbish  left  by  the  last  occupant ; Irow  a man  came  in 
and  sawed  up  some  damp  wood ; how  we  made  a fire 
in  a stove,  which,  having  been  heavily  oiled,  gave  off  a 
black,  abominable  smoke,  which  compelled  us  to  dis- 
pense with  it ; how  we  found  some  food  among  the  re- 
mains of  some  old  stores,  and  spent  nearly  four  hours 
in  preparing  it  for  supper  and  breakfast;  how  hope- 
lessly cold  the  night  was,  and  how  dark  and  drizzling 
the  morning,  for  our  discomfort  arose  out  of  what  con- 
stituted the  interest  of  our  visit  — that  we  were  un- 
expected. 

The  upper  part  of  Sanda  is  on  a steepish  hill,  and  is 
almost  entirely  composed  of  large  old  houses,  with 
grounds  enclosed  by  high  walls,  the  dwellings  of  mm'Ur 
rai.,  who  clustered  round  the  castle,  which  is  the  nucleus 
of  the  whole.  It  is  among  this  class  that  the  Christian 


308 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


converts  are  found,  and  they  have  built  a neat  little 
church,  which  is  self-supporting.  We  went  forth  with 
a lantern  to  pay  some  visits  among  these  people,  but 
were  left  in  the  dark  to  stumble  up  the  hill,  and  to  feel 
our  way  to  the  first  house,  a large  rambling  mansion, 
with  an  old  lady  at  its  head,  who  was  sitting  under  the 
hotatsu  (p.  261)  with  her  two  sons  and  their  wives,  and 
invited  us  to  “ creep  in,”  which  we  did  for  a time,  and 
then  one  of  her  daughters-in-law  guided  us  to  several 
other  large  houses,  where  our  reception  was  courteous, 
and,  lastly,  to  a handsome  dwelling  occupied  by  the 
leading  physician  in  Sanda.  We  were  taken  into  a 
well-lighted  room,  with  fine  'kakemono  on  the  walls,  an 
antique  bronze  in  a recess,  a grand  hihachi  in  the  centre, 
and  a fine  lamp  hanging  over  a group  of  an  elderly 
lady  in  the  place  of  honour,  the  physician,  his  wife, 
twin  daughters,  and  seven  visitors,  including  a fine 
bright-looking  young  man,  second  master  in  the  Gov- 
ernment school.  Each  person  was  sitting  on  his  heels 
on  a wadded  silk  cushion,  and  each  saluted  us  with 
three  profound  bows.  Tea,  cakes,  and  sugared  slices 
of  sweet  potato  were  passed  round,  of  which  we  par- 
took, and  were  much  laughed  at  for  our  awkwardness 
with  the  chopsticks.  There  were  light,  warmth,  com- 
fort, and  friendliness,  giving  me  a new  idea  of  what 
• home  life  may  be  among  the  middle  classes,  and  a frank 
geniality  of  manner,  slightly  European,  in  pleasant  com- 
bination with  Oriental  courtesy.  Of  this  group  all  are 
Christians  except  the  head  of  the  house,  and  he  is  an 
intelligent  inquirer,  and  the  object  of  the  gathering 
was  to  read  and  discuss  the  Christian  Scriptures  foi 
mutual  instruction,  the  Government  teacher  presiding. 
This  reunion  takes  place  once  a week.  It  was  really 
very  interesting  to  drop  in  upon  it,  and  to  know  that 
tliis  and  similar  gatherings  and  groups  of  Christians  in 


A CnniHTIAN  GATnEniNG. 


309 


this  and  other  places  have  come  about  as  results  of 
medical  missionary  work,  and  that  in  Sanda  and  else- 
where the  “ new  way  ” is  aided  by  the  influence  of  its 
reception  by  people  of  education  and  position.  In 
Sanda,  as  in  many  other  places,  a number  of  persons 
have  become  Christians,  and  use  their  influence  and 
money  in  favour  of  Christianity,  who,  for  various  rea- 
sons, have  not  sought  baptism,  and  are  not  numbered 
among  the  converts. 

I do  not  share  the  sanguine  expectations  of  those 
about  me  as  to  a rapid  spread  of  Christianity,  but  that 
it  is  destined  to  be  a power  in  moulding  the  future  of 
Japan,  I do  not  doubt.  Among  favourable  signs  are 
that  it  is  received  as  a life  rather  than  as  a doctrine, 
and  that  various  forms  of  immorality  are  recognised  as 
incompatible  with  it.  It  is  tending  to  bind  men  to- 
gether, irrespectively  of  class,  in  a true  democracy,  in 
a very  surprising  way.  The  small  Christian  congrega- 
tions are  pecuniarily  independent,  and  are  vigorous  in 
their  efforts.  The  K6be  congregation,  numbering  350 
members,  besides  contributing  nearly  1000  dollars  to 
erect  a church,  sustaining  its  own  poor,  providing  med- 
icine and  advice  for  its  indigent  sick,  and  paying  its 
own  pastor,  engages  in  various  forms  of  benevolent 
effort,  and  compensates  Christians  who  are  too  poor  to 
abstain  from  work  on  Sunday  for  the  loss  of  the  day’s 
wages.  At  Osaka  the  native  Christians  have  estab- 
lished a Christian  school  for  their  girls.  The  Christian 
students  in  Kiyoto  are  intensely  zealous,  preach  through 
the  country  in  their  vacations,  and  aim  at  nothing  less 
than  the  Christianising  of  Japan.  Christian  women  go 
among  the  villages  as  voluntary  missionaries  to  their 
own  sex.  Missionaries  and  students  who  itinerate  in 
the  interior  find,  as  a result  of  medical  or  other  mission- 
ary effort,  that  companies  of  persons  meet  to  read  such 


810 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPA^N. 


of  the  Scriptures  as  are  translated,  and  every  true  con- 
vert appears  anxious  to  bring  others  within  the  pale  of 
the  Christian  society. 

Doubtless  there  is  an  indirect  influence  against  Chris- 
tianity, but  overtly,  quiet  toleration  is  the  maxim  of 
the  Government,  and  the  profession  of  Christianity  does 
not  involve  the  loss  of  official  position.  Thus,  the 
Director  of  the  junior  department  of  the  Naval  College 
is  an  energetic  Christian,  the  second  teacher  in  the 
Sanda  School  is  the  same,  and  I have  heard  of  others 
whose  renunciation  of  the  national  faith  has  not  in- 
volved temporal  loss.  The  Government  requested  Dr. 
Berry  to  take  charge  of  the  hospital  here,  and  also  to 
inspect  and  report  upon  prisons,  at  the  very  time  that 
he  was  engaged  in  earnest  medical  missionary  work  — a 
fact  which  must  have  had  some  significance  among  its 
own  subjects.  In  this  region  the  Buddhist  priests  have 
ceased  to  claim  the  right  to  interfere  with  the  wishes  of 
a Christian  or  his  relatives  regarding  his  interment,  or 
to  perform  heathen  rites  over  his  grave.  The  edicts 
against  Christianity  have  been  removed  from  public 
places,  and  quite  lately  the  Department  of  Religion, 
formerly  the  first  in  the  State,  was  abolished,  and  its 
business  transferred  to  a bureau  of  the  Home  Depart- 
ment. This,  however,  is  only  an  indication  of  progress 
in  a western  direction,  and  of  increasing  mdifference  to 
religion.  Even  in  prisons  the  laissez  faire  principle  is 
adopted.  Several  copies  of  such  of  the  New  Testament 
books  as  have  been  translated,  and  some  other  Chris- 
tian books  were  given  some  time  ago  by  Mr.  Neesima 
to  the  officer  of  the  prison  at  Otsu,  who,  not  caring  to 
keep  them,  gave  them  to  a man  imprisoned  for  man- 
slaughter, but  a scholar.  A few  months  ago  a fire 
broke  out,  and  100  incarcerated  persons,  instead  of  tr}"- 
ing  to  escape,  helped  to  put  out  the  flames,  and  to  a 


rnosPECTs  of  chbistiaxitv. 


311 


man  remained  to  undergo  the  rest  of  their  sentences. 
This  curious  circumstance  led  to  an  inquiry  as  to  its 
cause,  and  it  turned  out  that  the  scholar  had  been  so 
impressed  with  the  truth  of  Christianity  that  he  had 
taught  it  to  his  fellow-captives,  and  Christian  principle, 
combined  with  his  personal  influence,  restrained  them 
from  defrauding  justice.  The  scholar  was  afterwards 
pardoned,  but  remained  in  Otsu  to  teach  more  of  the 
“ new  way  ” to  the  prisoners. 

There  cannot,  however,  be  a greater  mistake  than 
that  Japan  is  “ripe  for  the  reception  of  Christianity.” 
Though  the  labours  of  many  men  and  women  in  many 
years  have  resulted  in  making  1617  converts  to  the 
Protestant  faith,^  while  the  Romanists  claim  20,000, 
the  Greeks  3000,  and  a knowledge  of  the  essentials  of 
Christianity  is  ^videly  diffused  through  many  districts, 
the  fact  remains  that  34fi00fi00  of  Jaimnese  are  sceptics 
or  materialists^  or  are  absolutely  sunk  in  childish  and  de- 
grading superstitions^  out  of  which  the  religious  sigyiifi- 
cance^  such  as  it  tvas,  has  been  lost. 

The  chief  obstacles  in  the  way  of  Christianity  are,  if 
I judge  correctly,  the  general  deadness  of  the  religious 
instinct  and  of  religious  cravings,  the  connection  of 
the  national  faiths  with  the  Japanese  reverence  for  an- 
cestors, a blank  atheism  among  the  most  influential 
classes,  a universal  immorality  which  shrinks  from  a 
gospel  of  self-denial,  and  the  spread  of  an  agnostic 
philosophy  imported  from  England,  while  the  acts  of 
“Christian”  nations  and  the  lives  of  “Christian”  men 
are  regarded  as  a more  faithful  commentary  on  the 
Law  of  Sinai  and  the  Sermon  on  the  IMount  than  that 
which  is  put  upon  them  by  the  missionaries.^ 

1 A number  wbicb  the  ten  months  which  have  elapsed  since  this 
letter  was  written  have  increased  by  fifteen  hundred. 

2 The  ruling  spirit  of  Japan  is  represented  in  the  following  extracts 
from  a paper  called,  “ Of  what  good  is  Christianity  to  Japan  ? ” which 


312 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


The  clays  when  a missionary  was  “dished  up  for  din- 
ner”^ at  foreign  tables  are  perhaps  past,  but  the  anti- 
appeared in  one  of  the  most  influential  of  the  Japanese  papers  on  Octo 
her  19, 1878:  — 

“ The  Christian  religion  seems  to  be  extending  by  degrees  throughout 
our  country.  ...  We  have  no  wish  to  obey  it,  nor  have  we  any  fear  of 
being  troubled  by  it.  As  we  can  enjoy  sufiScient  happiness  without  any 
religion  whatever,  the  question  as  to  the  merits  or  demerits  of  the  differ- 
ent forms  never  enters  our  head.  Indeed,  we  are  of  those  who,  not  know- 
ing the  existence  of  religions  in  the  universe,  are  enjoying  perfect 
happiness.  We  have  no  intention  of  either  supporting  or  attacking 
the  Christian  religion.  In  fact,  religion  is  nothing  to  us.  . . . We  do 
not  consider  believers  in  Christianity  to  be  odd  or  foolish  persons,  but 
we  take  them  to  be  those  who  are  guided  in  their  morals  by  their  reli- 
gion, and  therefore  we  may  say  that  believers  in  the  Christian  religion 
are  those  who,  spending  time  and  labour,  import  their  morals  from  a 
foreign  country.”  The  writer,  after  asking  the  question,  “ In  associat- 
ing with  foreigners,  in  what  way  can  we  beneflt  our  country  ? ” urges  that 
though  the  morality  of  Japan  is  not  blameless,  it  is  rather  superior  than 
inferior  to  that  of  some  western  people,  while  in  “ intellect,”  i.  e.  the  arts 
and  sciences,  Japan  is  immeasurably  behind  them.  He  argues  that 
‘‘  Christian  believers,”  therefore,  are  “ wasting  their  time  ” upon  morals, 
and  concludes  thus:  — “ How  careless  the  Christian  believers  are  in  judg- 
ing the  importance  of  matters  1 If  the  time  and  trouble  wasted  on  im- 
proving our  morality,  which  is  not  deficient  in  us,  were  directed  towards 
gaining  intellectual  knowledge,  which  is  deficient  in  us,  the  benefit 
accruing  to  our  country  would  be  not  a little.  The  present  Japan  is  an 
active  country,  busy  in  gaining  intellectual  acquirements,  and  therefore 
no  time  ought  to  be  allowed  to  be  wasted  on  any  useless  affairs.”  — 
Ilochi  Shimbun. 

1 In  his  Voyages  of  a Naturalist,  Mr.  Darwin,  in  his  severely  truthful 
style,  defends  missionaries  from  malignant  and  \uilgar  attacks.  His 
manly  pages  on  the  subject  are  well  worth  reading,  but  I only  quote 
two  or  three  sentences.  “ There  are  many  who  attack,  even  more 
acrimoniously  than  Kotzebue,  the  missionaries,  their  system,  and  the 
effects  produced  by  it.  Such  reasoners  never  compare  the  present 
state  with  only  twenty  years  ago,  nor  even  with  that  of  Europe  at  this 
day,  but  they  compare  it  with  the  high  standard  of  gospel  perfection. 
They  expect  the  missionaries  to  do  that  which  the  Apostles  themselves 
failed  to  do.  Inasmuch  as  the  condition  of  the  people  falls  short  of 
this  high  standard,  blame  is  attached  to  the  missionary,  instead  of 
credit  for  that  which  he  has  effected.”  Mr.  Darwin,  after  mentioning 
many  sinful  habits  of  the  past,  says,  ” They  forget,  or  will  not  remem- 
ber, that  all  these  have  been  abolished,  and  that  dishonesty,  intemper- 
ance, and  licentiousness,  have  been  greatly  reduced  by  the  introduction 
of  Christianity.  But  it  is  useless  to  argue  against  such  reasoners.  I 
believe  that,  disappointed  in  not  finding  the  field  for  licentiousness 


PBOSPECTS  OF  CUBISTIANITY. 


313 


missionary  spirit  is  strong,  and  the  missionaries  give  a 
great  deal  of  positive  and  negative  offence,  some  of 
which  might,  perhaps,  be  avoided.  They  would  doubh 
less  readily  confess  faults,  defects,  and  mistakes,  but 
with  all  these,  I believe  them  to  be  a thoroughly  sin- 
cere, conscientious,  upright,  and  zealous  body  of  men 
and  women,  all  working,  as  they  best  know  how,  for 
the  spread  of  Christianity,  and  far  more  anxious  to 
build  up  a pure  Church  than  to  multiply  nominal  con- 
verts. The  agents  of  the  different  sects  abstain  from 
even  the  appearance  of  rivalry,  and  meet  for  friendly 
counsel,  and  instead  of  perpetuating  such  separating 
names  as  Episcopalians,  Baptists,  Congregationalists, 
etc.,  “the  disciples  are  called  CHRISTIANS  FIRST.” 

Without  indulging  in  any  unreasonable  expectations, 
it  cannot  be  doubted  that  the  teaching  of  this  large 
body  of  persons,  and  the  example  of  the  unquestionable 
purity  of  their  lives,  is  paving  the  way  for  the  recep- 
tion of  the  Christianity  preached  by  Japanese  evangel- 
ists with  the  eloquence  of  conviction,  and  that  every 
true  convert  is  not  only  a convert  but  a propagandist, 
and  a centre  of  the  higher  morality  in  which  lies  the 
great  hope  for  the  future  of  Japan. 

I ardently  long  to  see  this  people  Christianised,  not 
with  the  nominal  Christianity  of  Christendom,  but 
with  the  pure,  manly,  self-sacrificing  Christianity  of 
Christ  and  His  apostles.  Japanese  religious  art  has 
done  much  to  please  the  eye,  yet  the  impression,  on  the 
whole,  is  one  of  profound  melancholy.  The  religious 
zeal  which  covered  the  land  with  temples  and  monas- 
teries, terraced  mountain  sides  in  stone,  and  ascended 
them  by  colossal  flights  of  stone  stairs,  has  perished. 

quite  so  open  as  formerly,  they  will  not  give  credit  to  a morality  whicJi 
they  do  not  wish  to  practise,  or  to  a religion  which  they  undervalue,  if 
not  despise.”  — P.  414. 


314  UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 

Myth  and  Nature  worsliip  are  reduced  to  rubbing  and 
clapping  the  hands,  and  throwing  rin  upon  temple 
floors.  Buddhism,  degenerate  and  idolatrous,  is  losing 
its  hold  over  men’s  fears,  and  prostrate  Buddhas  and 
decaying  shrines  are  seen  all  over  the  land.  The  chill 
of  an  atheistic  materialism  rests  upon  the  upper  classes ; 
an  advancing  education  bids  religion  and  morality 
stand  aside,  the  clang  of  the  new  material  progress 
drowns  the  still,  small  voice  of  Christ,  the  old  faiths 
are  dying,  the  religious  instincts  are  failing,  and  reli- 
gious cravings  scarcely  exist.  Even  at  its  best  and 
highest  there  is  an  intense  mournfulness  about  Japanese 
Buddhism,  pointing,  as  it  does,  to  an  unattainable  per- 
fection, and  holding  up  the  terrors  of  hell  to  those  who 
fall  short  of  it,  but  recognising  no  availing  “sacrifice 
for  sin,”  no  “merciful  and  faithful  High  Priest,”  no 
Father  in  heaven  yearning  over  mankind  with  an  infi- 
nite love,  no  higher  destiny  than  practical  annihilation, 
being  “ without  hope,  and  without  God  in  the  world.” 

I.  L.  B. 


FINE  WEATUER. 


315 


CREMATION.  * 

Fine  Weather — Cremation  in  Japan  — The  Governor  of  Tokiy6  — 
An  Awkward  Question  — An  Insignificant  Building  — Economy 
in  Funeral  Expenses  — Simplicity  of  the  Cremation  Process  — 
The  Last  of  Japan. 


Legation,  Yedo /‘December  18. 

I HAVE  spent  the  last  ten  days  here,  in  settled  fine 
weather,  such  as  should  have  begun  two  months  ago, 
if  the  climate  had  behaved  as  it  ought.  A cloudless 
sky,  a brilliant  sun,  and  a temperature  rarely  falling 
to  the  freezing-point,  are  very  delightful.  I miss  Lady 
Parkes  and  the  children  sorely,  and  she  is  mourned  by 
every  one,  not  only  because  she  took,  as  no  one  else 
can,  the  social  lead  in  the  English-speaking  community, 
but  because  of  her  thoughtful  kindness  and  genuine 
sympathy  with  sorrow,  no  less  than  for  her  high  sense 
of  truth  and  justice,  and  for  her  judicious  reticence  of 
speech,  nowhere  more  important  than  in  such  a mixed 
society  as  this.  The  time  has  flown  by,  however,  in 
excursions,  shopping,  select  little  dinner  parties,  fare- 
well calls,  and  visits  made  with  Mr.  Chamberlain  to 
the  famous  groves  and  temples  of  Ikegami,  where  the 
Buddhist  bishop  and  priests  entertained  us  in  one  of 
the  guest-rooms,  and  to  Enoshima  and  Kamakura, 
“ Auilgar  ” resorts  which  nothing  can  vulgarise  so  long 
as  Fujisan  towers  above  them. 

T will  mention  but  one  “ sight  ” which  is  so  far  out 
of  the  beaten  track  tliat  it  was  only  after  prolonged 


816 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


inquiry  that  its  whereabouts  was  ascertained.  Among 
Buddhists,  specially  of  the  Monto  sect,  cremation  was 
largely  practised  till  it  was  forbidden  five  years  ago,  as 
some  suppose  in  deference  to  European  prejudices. 
Three  years  ago,  however,  the  prohibition  was  with- 
diawn,  and  in  this  short  space  of  time  the  number  of 
bodies  burned  has  reached  nearly  nine  thousand  annu- 


FUJI8AN,  FROM  A VILLAGE  ON  THE  t6kAID5. 


ally.  Sir  H.  Parkes  applied  for  permission  for  me  to 
visit  the  Kirigaya  ground,  one  of  five,  and  after  a few 
delays  it  was  granted  by  the  Governor  of  T6kiy8  at 
Mr.  Mori’s  request,  so  yesterday,  attended  by  the  Lega- 
tion linguist,  I presented  myself  at  the  fine  yashiki  of 
the  TokiyO  Fu.,  and  quite  unexpectedly  was  admitted 
to  an  audience  of  the  Governor.  Mr.  Kusainoto  is  a 


AN  AWKWARD  QUESTION. 


317 


well-bred  gentleman,  and  his  face  expresses  the  energy 
and  ability  which  he  has  given  proof  of  possessing. 
He  wears  his  European  clothes  becomingly,  and  in 
attitude,  as*  well  as  manner,  is  easy  and  dignified. 
After  asking  me  a great  deal  about  my  northern  tour 
and  the  Ainos,  he  expressed  a wish  for  candid  criticism, 
but  as  this  in  the  East  must  not  be  taken  literally,  1 
merely  ventured  to  say  that  the  roads  lag  behind  the 
progress  made  in  other  directions,  upon  which  he  en- 
tered upon  explanations  which  doubtless  apply  to  the 
past  road-history  of  the  country.  He  spoke  of  crema- 
tion and  its  “ necessity  ” in  large  cities,  and  terminated 
the  interview  by  requesting  me  to  dismiss  my  interpre- 
ter and  kuruma,  as  he  was  going  to  send  me  to  Meguro 
in  his  own  carriage  with  one  of  the  Government  inter- 
preters, adding  very  courteously  that  it  gave  him  pleas- 
ure to  show  this  attention  to  a guest  of  the  British 
Minister,  “ for  whose  character  and  important  services 
to  Japan  he  has  a high  value.” 

An  hour’s  drive,  with  an  extra  amount  of  yelling 
from  the  bettos,  took  us  to  a suburb  of  little  hills  and 
valleys,  where  red  camellias  and  feathery  bamboo 
against  back-grounds  of  cryptomeria  contrast  with  the 
grey  monotone  of  British  winters,  and,  alighting  at  a 
farm  road  too  rough  for  a carriage,  we  passed  through 
fields  and  hedgerows  to  an  erection  which  looks  too 
insignificant  for  such  solemn  use.  Don’t  expect  any 
ghastly  details.  A longish  building  of  “wattle  and 
dab,”  much  like  the  northern  farmhouses,  a high  roof, 
and  chimneys  resembling  those  of  the  “oast  houses” 
in  Kent,  combine  with  the  rural  surroundings  to  sug 
gest  “ farm  buildings  ” rather  than  the  “ funeral  pyre,” 
and  all  that  is  horrible  is  left  to  the  imagination. 

The  end  nearest  the  road  is  a little  temple,  much 
crowded  with  images,  and  small,  red,  earthenware  urns 


*318 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


and  tongs  for  sale  to  the  relatives  of  deceased  persons, 
and  beyond  this  are  four  rooms  with  earthen  floors  and 
mud  walls ; nothing  noticeable  about  them  except  the 
height  of  the  peaked  roof  and  the  dark  colour  of 
the  plaster.  In  the  middle  of  the  largest  are  several 
pairs  of  granite  supports  at  equal  distances  from  each 
other,  and  in  the  smallest  there  is  a solitary  pair.  This 
was  literally  all  that  was  to  be  seen.  In  the  large 
room  several  bodies  are  burned  at  one  time,  and  the 
charge  is  only  one  yew,  about  3s.  8d.,  solitary  cremation 
costing  five  yen.  Faggots  are  used,  and  Is.  worth  ordi- 
narily suffices  to  reduce  a human  form  to  ashes.  After 
the  funeral  service  in  the  house,  the  body  is  brought  to 
the  cremation  ground,  and  is  left  in  charge  of  the  at- 
tendant, a melancholy,  smoked-looking  man,  as  well  he 
may  be.  The  richer  people  sometimes  pay  priests  to 
be  present  during  the  burning,  but  this  is  not  usual. 
There  were  five  “quick-tubs’’  of  pine  hooped  with 
bamboo  in  the  larger  room,  containing  the  remains  of 
coolies,  and  a few  oblong  pine  chests  in  the  small  rooms 
containing  those  of  middle-class  people.  At  8 p.m., 
each  “ coffin  ” is  placed  on  the  stone  trestles,  the  fag- 
gots are  lighted  underneath,  the  fires  are  replenished 
during  the  night,  and  by  6 A.M.  that  which  was  a 
human  being  is  a small  heap  of  ashes,  which  is  placed 
in  an  urn  by  the  relatives  and  is  honourably  interred. 
In  some  cases  the  priests  accompany  the  relations  on 
this  last  mournful  errand.  Thirteen  bodies  were  burned 
the  night  before  my  visit,  but  there  was  not  the  slight- 
est odour  in  or  about  the  building,  and  the  interpreter 
told  me  that,  owing  to  the  height  of  the  chunneys,  the 
people  of  the  neighbourhood  never  experience  the  least 
antioyance,  even  while  the  process  is  going  on.  The 
simplicity  of  the  arrangement  is  very  remarkable,  and 
there  can  be  no  reasonable  doubt  that  it  serves  the 


TEE  LAST  OF  JAPAN, 


319 


purpose  of  the  innocuous  and  complete  destruction  of 
the  corpse  as  well  as  any  complicated  apparatus  (if  not 
better),  while  its  cheapness  places  it  within  the  reach 
of  the  class  which  is  most  heavily  burdened  by  ordi- 
nary funeral  expenses^  This  morning  the  Governor 
sent  his  secretary  to  present  me  with  a translation  of 
an  interesting  account  of  the  practice  of  cremation  and 
its  introduction  into  Japan. 

jS.S.  “ Volga^^  Christmas  Eve,,  1878.  — The  snowy 
dome  of  Fujisan  reddening  in  the  sunrise  rose  above 
the  violet  woodlands  of  Mississippi  Bay  as  we  steamed 
out  of  Yokahama  Harbour  on  the  19th,  and  three  days 
later  I saw  the  last  of  Japan  — a rugged  coast,  lashed 
by  a wintry  sea.  I.  L.  B. 

* The  following  very  inaccurate  but  ente’rtaining  account  of  this  ex- 
pedition was  given  by  the  Yomi-uri-Shimbun,  a daily  newspaper  with 
the  largest,  though  not  the  most  aristocratic  circulation  in  Tokiyo,  being 
taken  in  by  the  serA’ants  and  tradespeople.  It  is  a literal  translation 
made  by  Mr.  Chamberlain.  “ The  person  mentioned  in  our  yesterday’s 
issue  as  ‘ an  English  subject  of  the  name  of  Bird  ’ is  a lady  from  Scot- 
land, a part  of  England.  This  lady  spends  her  time  in  travelling,  leav- 
ing this  year  the  two  American  continents  for  a passing  visit  to  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  and  landing  in  Japan  early  in  the  month  of  May. 
She  has  toured  all  over  the  country,  and  even  made  a five  months’ 
stay  in  the  Hokkaido,  inA’^estigating  the  local  customs  and  productions. 
Her  inspection  yesterday  of  the  cremation  ground  at  Kirigaya  is 
believed  to  have  been  prompted  by  a knowledge  of  the  advantages  of 
this  method  of  disposing  of  the  dead,  and  a desire  to  introduce  the 
same  into  England  (!)  On  account  of  this  lady’s  being  so  learned  as  to 
have  published  a quantity  of  books.  His  Excellency  the  GoA’^ernor  was 
pleased  to  see  her  yesterday,  and  to  show  her  great  chility,  sending 
her  to  Kirigaya  in  his  own  carriage,  a mark  of  attention  which  is  said 
to  have  pleased  the  lady  much  (I)  ” 


320 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN 


JAPANESE  PUBLIC  AFFAIRSJ 

The  new  era  dates  from  1868.  Up  to  the  twelfth  cen- 
tury Japan  was  ruled  by  the  Mikado,  who  was  believed 
to  be  directly  descended  from  the  gods  who  created  the 
country.  This  ruler  by  “divine  right,”  exercised  his 
absolute  power  through  the  KugS  or  court  nobles, 
mostly  connections  of  his  own,  who  monopolised  the 
chief  offices,  constituted  the  membership  of  the  two 
great  councils  which  arranged  religious  and  secular 
affairs,  and  filled  the  principal  posts  in  the  eight  execu- 
tive departments  of  the  empii-e. 

After  the  twelfth  century,  -when  the  feudal  system 
rose,  the  governing  power  gradually  passed  out  of  the 
hands  of  the  IMikado  and  his  nobles  into  those  of  the 
great  feudal  families,  and  in  1603  became  concentrated 
in  lyeyasu,  the  head  of  the  Tokugawa  dynasty,  succes- 
sive members  of  which  exercised  it  for  two  centuries 
and  a half.  All  this  time  a shadowy  Mikado  nominally 
reigned  in  the  old  palace  in  KiyOto,  but  power  and 
splendour  had  passed  to  his  chief  vassal,  who,  under  the 
title  of  Sh6gun,  actually  ruled  from  the  Castle  of  Yedo, 

1 The  authorities  for  the  statements  in  this  sketch  are  — Mr.  Moun- 
sey’s  Satsuma  Rebellion ; figures  and  facts  supplied  by  the  courtesy  of 
the  Statistical  Department  of  the  Japanese  Government;  two  lectures 
on  “The  National  Debt  of  Japan,”  by  Mr.  Maye't,  Counsellor  to  the 
Japanese  Finance  Department ; the  Finance  Estimates  for  the  year 
ending  June  30, 1880  ; and  the  Reports  presented  by  the  heads  of  the 
Mint,  Post  Office,  Telegraph,  and  Education  Departments,  to  Sanjo 
Sancyoshi,  the  Prime  Minister. 


FEUDAL  PEINCES. 


321 


and  was  usually  strong  enoiigli  to  impose  his  will  on  his 
sovereign.  It  was  this  system  of  dual  government 
which  gave  rise  to  the  fiction  of  “ spiritual  ” and  “ tem- 
poral ” emperors. 

The  daimiyd  were  feudal  princes,  who,  having  origi- 
nally conquered  their  domains  by  the  sword,  exercised 
independent  jurisdiction  within  their  limits,  but  were 
bound  to  render  certain  acts  of  homage  to  the  ShSgun, 
whose  government  was  composed  of  those  among  them 
on  whose  loyalty  he  could  rely.  The  samurai^  their 
“ two-sworded  ” retainers,  who  had  won  their  provinces 
foi-  them,  and  had  been  rewarded  by  grants  of  land, 
were  not  onl}^  the  fighting  men  of  the  Empire,  but  its 
most  public-spirited  and  best-educated  class. 

Of  these  political  orders  the  kugS^  who  were  poor, 
but  still  retained  their  old  prestige^  numbered  about 
150  families ; the  daimiyd^  with  their  quasi-independent 
position,  268;  and  the  samurai^  the  “backbone  of  the 
nation,”  about  400,000  households.  Below  these  there 
was  the  Tieimin^  a vast,  unrecognised  mass  of  men  with- 
out position,  farmers,  artisans,  merchants,  and  peasants, 
separated  by  laws  forbidding  intermarriage  from  the 
pariah  castes  of  the  eta^  who  handled  raw  hides  and 
other  contaminating  things ; and  the  hinin^  “ not  hu- 
mans,” paupers,  allowed  to  squat  on  waste  lands,  who 
lived  by  beggary,  carried  bodies  from  the  execution 
grounds,  and  performed  other  degraded  offices,  this 
mass,  without  political  privileges,  numbering  32,000,- 
000.  The  Shogun  was  the  actual  depository  of  power, 
but,  above  all  was  the  secluded  Mikado,  theoretically 
the  source  of  all  authority,  and  “a  name  to  conjure 
with.” 

The  reasons  for  the  Revolution  must  be  sought  for 
elsewhere,  but  it  must  not  be  overlooked  that  contact 
with  western  power  and  civilisation,  and  the  diffusion 


322 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


of  western  ideas  through  the  medium  of  translated  lit- 
erature, were  among  its  predisposing  causes;  that  it 
was  a few  leading  men  in  a few  of  the  clans,  together 
with  a very  few  daimiyo  who  had  not  succumbed  to  the 
luxury  and  effeminacy  of  their  class,  who  organised  and 
successfully  carried  out  the  dethronement  of  the  Sh6~ 
gun.)  and  the  restoration  of  the  Mikado ; and  that  it  is 
the  leading  men  of  the  clans,  and  not  men  of  the  old 
aristocracy,  who  have  held  the  reins  of  power  ever 
since. 

In  1868  Keiki,  the  last  Sh6gun,  retired  into  private 
life,  and  in  1869  nearly  the  whole  of  flie  daimiyd  peti- 
tioned to  be  allowed  to  j^ield  up  their  fiefs  and  quasi- 
sovereign rights  to  the  Mikado,  praying  him  to  take 
absolute  power,  and  to  establish  the  internal  relations 
of  the  country  upon  such  a footing  “ that  the  Empire 
will  be  able  to  take  its  place  side  by  side  with  the  other 
countries  of  the  world.”  This  proposal  was  accepted, 
a tenth  of  their  former  revenues  was  allotted  to  them ; 
a provision  was  made  for  their  retainers,  and  by  1871 
when  the  clans  were  finally  abolished,  the  feudal  system 
of  Japan,  with  its  splendour  and  oppressiveness,  had 
ceased  to  exist.  There  has  been  no  very  important 
movement  against  the  new  Government  except  the  Sat- 
suma  Rebellion  in  1877,  which  cost  Japan  13,000  killed, 
and  21,000  wounded  men,  and  £8,400,000  in  money, 
besides  enormous  losses  arising  from  the  destruction  of 
property  and  the  depression  of  trade. 

Since  1868  Japan,  casting  away  her  traditions  of  se- 
clusion, and  detaching  herself  from  the  fellowship  of 
Oriental  nations,  has  astonished  the  world  by  the  rapid- 
ity of  her  progress,  the  skill  with  which  she  has  selected 
and  appropriated  many  of  the  most  valuable  results  of 
western  civilisation,  the  energy  with  which  she  has  re- 
constructed herself,  and  the  governing  capacity  which 


OBSTACLES  TO  ADVANCEMENT. 


323 


has  been  shown  by  men  untrained  in  statecraft.  In 
the  glitter  and  eclat  of  this  unique  movement  we  must 
not  forget  that  the  Japanese  throne  is  still  founded  on 
a religious  fiction,  that  the  Government  is  still  “des- 
potic and  idolatrous,”  that  the  peasantry  are  ignorant 
and  enslaved  by  superstition;  that  taxation  presses 
heavily  on  the  cultivator ; that  money  raised  with  diffi- 
culty is  spent  ofttimes  on  objects  non-essential  to  the 
progress,  and  alien  to  the  genius,  of  the  nation ; that 
the  official  class  still  suffers  from  the  taint  which  per- 
vades Asiatic  offimaldom ; that  the  educational  system 
is  not  only  incomplete,  but  suffers  from  radical  defects ; 
that  the  reform  of  the  legal  system  is  only  in  its  in- 
fancy; that  the  means  of  internal  communication  are 
infamous ; that  the  tone  of  morality  is  universally  low ; 
that  the  nation  is  a heathen  nation,  steeped  in  heathen 
ideas  and  practices ; and  that  the  work  of  making 
Japan  a really  great  empire  is'  only  in  its  beginning. 
For  what  she  has  already  done  she  claims  from  western 
nations  hearty  sympathy  and  cordial  co-operation,  free- 
dom to  consolidate  and  originate  internal  reforms  unem- 
barrassed by  pressure  applied  by  stronger  powers  for 
selfish  purposes,  and  to  be  aided  by  friendly  criticism 
rather  than  retarded  by  indiscriminate  praise. 

The  pages  which  follow  bring  together  very  briefly 
some  of  the  most  outstanding  facts  connected  with  the 
present  position  of  Japan,  and  refer  the  thoughtful 
reader  to  the  carefully  prepared  pages  from  which  they 
are  taken. 

In  1869  the  present  Mikado,  in  the  presence  of  the 
grandees  of  the  Empire,  swore  solemnly  “ that  a delib- 
erative assembly  should  be  formed;  that  all  measures 
should  be  decided  by  public  opinion ; that  the  uncivil- 
ised customs  of  former  times  should  be  broken  throng]  i ; 
that  the  impartiality  and  justice  displayed  in  the  work- 


324 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


ings  of  nature  should  be  adopted  as  the  basis  of  action ; 
and  that  intellect  and  learning  should  be  sought  for 
throughout  the  world  in  order  to  establish  tlie  founda- 
tions of  the  Empire.”  Though  this  oath  of  progress 
was  but  the  word  of  a boy  brought  up  in  the  seclusion 
of  Kij6to,  it  represented  the  conviction  and  settled  pur- 
pose of  the  men  who  led  the  Revolution,  and  have 
piloted  the  Empire  through  the  perils  of  the  last  eleven 
years.  It  is  now  1880,  and  the  first  instalment  of  rep- 
resentative institutions,  though  in  their  most  elementary 
form,  was  granted  last  year. 

The  composition  of  the  Government  is  subject  to 
change,  but  in  its  main  features  is  as  follows: — The 
Mikado  is  an  absolute  sovereign.  He  administers  affairs 
through  a Supreme  Council,  which  consists  of  the  Prime 
Minister,  the  Vice-Prime  Minister,  and  the  heads  of  the 
great  Departments  of  State,  and  meets  on  fixed  days  in 
the  Mikado’s  presence.*  This  is  the  actual  Government. 
Below  this  is  a Legislative  Council,  composed  of  emi- 
nent men,  and  presided  over  by  an  Imperial  prince. 
It  elaborates  such  new  laws,  and  reforms  in  old  ones,  as 
are  determined  on  by  the  Supreme  Council,  but  cannot 
initiate  any  legislative  measures  without  its  consent. 
There  is  also  an  “ assembly  of  local  officials,”  consisting 
of  one  superior  officer  from  each  of  the  three  Fu  (the 
cities  of  T6kiy6,  Kiy6to,  and  6saka)  and  the  thirty- 
five  Ken  (administrative  departments)  ; but  it  meets 
but  rarely,  and  is  a strictly  consultative  body,  its  func- 
tions being  to  advise  on  matters  concerning  taxation. 

The  chief  Departments  of  State  are  Foreign  Affairs.. 
Finance  (which  embraces  the  Mint,  Tax,  Paper  Money, 
Statistical,  Audit,  Loan,  Record,  and  Paymaster’s  De- 
partments, and  the  State  Printing-office),  War,  Marine, 
Education,  Public  Works,  Justice,  Colonisation,  the 
Imperial  household,  and  the  Interior,  the  most  impor- 


ELECTIONS, 


325 


tant  of  all  (into  which  the  Department  of  Religion  was 
merged  not  long  ago),  which  embraces  everything  not 
covered  by  the  other  Departments,  and  which  has  a 
capacity  for  centralisation  which  could  scarcely  be 
exceeded. 

A Government  so  constituted  is  strictly  a despotism 
ruling  through  a bureaucracy,  but  a step  towards  consti- 
tutionalism has  been  taken  lately  by  the  calling  together 
of  provincial  parliaments.  All  males  above  20,  who 
pay  land-tax  amounting  to  XI  annually,  are  entitled  to 
vote,  persons  who  have  been  sentenced  to  penal  servi- 
tude for  one  year  for  offences  not  commutable  by  fine, 
and  bankrupts  who  have  not  paid  their  liabilities  in  full, 
alone  excepted.  Voting  is  by  ballot.  The  property 
qualification  for  members  consists  in  the  annual  pay- 
ment of  X2  of  land-tax;  but  persons  holding  Govern- 
ment or  religious  appointments  are  ineligible.  The 
functions  of  these  “primary  assemblies  ” are  at  present 
limited  to  the  discussion  and  arrangement  of  the 
expenditure  to  be  met  out  of  the  local,  taxes,  and  the 
method  of  levying  such  taxes ; but  a possible  enlarge- 
ment is  provided  for  in  the  edict  by  which  they  were 
instituted.  These  novel  elections  passed  off  quietly, 
and  the  newly  constituted  bodies,  which  met  in  March 
1879,  confined  themselves  to  the  business  before  them, 
and  to  settling  their  forms  of  procedure.  The  impor- 
tance of  this  initial  step  in  a constitutional  direction 
on  the  part  of  an  Asiatic  despotism  has  not  been  suffi- 
ciently recognised  by  foreigners. 

For  administrative  purposes  Japan  is  divided  into 
three  Fu  and  thirty-five  Ken,,  each  with  a Governor  or 
Prefect,  and  a staff  of  officials  responsible  to  the  Minis- 
try of  the  Interior,  the  Island  of  Yezo,  for  some  occult 
reason,  being  under  the  Colonisation  Department. 

Official  salaries,  judged  by  western  notions,  are  not 


326 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


higli.  The  “Premier,”  Sanjo,  receives  only  <£1920 
annually,  and  the  chief  and  vice-ministers  of  the  differ- 
ent departments  £1440  and  £960  respectively. 

Protected  by  her  insular  position,  Japan  ought  not 
to  have  any  enemies,  and  a large  armed  force,  besides 
being  an  expense  and  a source  of  internal  danger,  is  a 
standing  temptation  to  her  to  make  aggressions  upon 
her  weaker  neighbors.  On  the  abolition  of  the  samurai 
or  military  class,  she  created  a standing  army,  raised  by 
conscription,  and  equipped,  drilled,  and  disciplined  on 
European  models,  by  a commission  of  French  officers. 
It  consists  of  35,560  men  in  time  of  peace,  and  50,230 
when  on  a war  footing,  besides  a reserve  of  20,000,  not 
yet  completely  organised.  The  war  estimates  for  1880 
are  £1,438,020. 

The  navy  consists  of  thirteen  ships  on  active  service, 
ironclad,  ironbelted,  composite,  and  wooden,  all  steam- 
ers, carrying  2250  men  and  87  guns,  besides  10  train- 
ing-ships and  4 yachts,  which,  with  the  addition  of  897 
unattached  men  and  officers,  brings  up  its  total  strength 
to  27  vessels,  4242  men,  and  149  guns.  The  naval  drill 
and  discipline  are  English.  The  principal  navy  yard 
is  at  Yokosuka,  near  Yokohama.  The  naval  estimates 
for  1880  are  £527,994. 

The  police  force,  a very  important  body,  with  very 
multifarious  and  responsible  duties,  is  composed  of 
23,334  men,  5672  of  whom  are  quartered  in  T6kiy6. 
The  pay  of  the  chief  commissioner  is  £60  per  month, 
inspectors  receive  from  £12  to  £3,  and  constables  from 
£2  : 10s.  to  16s.  according  to  their  grade.  The  police 
estimates  for  1880  are  £497,000.  Taken  altogether, 
this  force,  which  is  composed  mainly  of  men  of  the 
samurai  class,  is  well-educated  and  efficient,  performs  its 
duties  with  far  less  of  harassment  to  the  people  than 
might  be  expected  from  Asiatic  officials,  and  may  turn 
out  to  be  more  reliable  than  the  army. 


POSTAL  SERVICE. 


327 


One  of  the  earliest  undertakings  of  the  new  Govern- 
ment was  the  establishment  of  a mail  route  between 
T6kiy6  and  Osaka  in  1871,  the  signal  for  the  disappear- 
ance of  the  unclothed  runner  with  the  letters  in  the 
cleft  of  a stick,  who  figures  so  frequently  in  accounts  of 
Japan.  So  rapid  was  postal  progress  that  by  the  date 
of  the  last  report  34,545  miles  of  mail  routes  had  been* 
opened,  the  mileage  is  annually  increasing,  and  the  ser- 
vice both  by  sea  and  land  is  so  admirably  conducted  as 
to  rival  in  some  degree  our  own,  on  which  it  is  modelled. 
The*  foreign  mail  service  is  carefully  managed,  and  the 
Japanese  post  office,  after  a thorough  trial,  has  proved 
itself  so  efficient  that  the  foreign  postal  agencies  are 
being  abolished  one  after  the  other,  the  last  remaining 
being  the  French,  which  will  shortly  close. 

With  stamps  of  all  denominations,  post-cards,  stamped 
envelopes  and  newspaper  wrappers,  facilities  for  regis- 
tering letters,  money  order  offices,  post-office  savings 
banks,  a G.  P.  O.  and  branches,  receiving  agencies,- 
street  and  wayside  letter-boxes,  postal  deliveries,  and  a 
“ dead  letter  ” office,  the  foreigner  need  be  at  no  loss 
with  regard  to  his  correspondence,  and  if  he  can  read 
the  Chinese  character,  he  may  instruct  himself  by  maps 
of  mail  routes,  a postal  guide  giving  details  of  post-office 
business,  a postal  history  of  Japan,  and  a general  post- 
off  ce  directory  of  the  Empire,  not  yet  completed ! 

The  last  Report  given  to  the  public  by  Mr.  Maye- 
shima,  the  Postmaster-General,  is  an  ably  prepared  and 
comprehensive  document,  and  gives  a most  satisfactory 
account  of  increasing  business  and  diminishing  ex- 
penses, and  in  the  estimates  for  1880  it  is  assumed  (and 
not  unreasonably)  that  the  revenue  will  cover  the  expen- 
diture. In  the  year  ending  with  June  1878,  the  number 
of  letters,  newspapers,  etc.,  sent  through  the  post  was 
47,192,286,  an  increase  over  the  preceding  year  of  23 


328 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


per  cent,  and  over  1876  of  56  per  cent,  and  of  this  large 
number  only  62  were  stolen,  and  only  91  were  “ miss- 
ing ” ! Of  the  aggregate  number  nearly  25  millions 
were  letters,  763,000  were  registered  letters,  10  millions 
were  post-cards,  and  millions  ivere  newspapers.  The 
number  of  money  orders  issued  was  204,367,  repiesent- 
ing  £558,072,  a decrease  of  21  per  cent  on  the  previous 
year,  but  the  post-office  savings  banks,  which  num- 
ber 292,  show  an  increase  of  131,  an  increase  in  the 
number  of  deposits  of  83  per  cent,  in  the  amount  de- 
posited of  270  per  cent,  and  in  depositors  of  5000, ‘the 
average  amount  deposited  by  each  depositor  being  about 
£3 : 10s.  The  Post-Office  employs  7000  persons,  of 
wliich  number  thirteen  are  foreigners. 

The  telegraphic  system  of  Japan  merits  high  en- 
comiums for  its  trustworthiness  and  general  efficiency. 
The  first  short  line  was  erected  in  1869 ; telegraph  prog- 
ress has  been  going  on  since  at  the  rate  of  about  600 
miles  a year ; a thousand  miles  were  in  course  of  con- 
struction when  the  new  buildings  in  TokiyO  were  opened 
in  1878,  and  eight  thousand  miles  are  now  in  operation. 
Bell’s  Telephones  have  been  imported,  and  are  used 
successfully  in  connection  with  the  Public  Works’ 
Department.  The  number  of  persons  employed  in  the 
Telegraph  service  is  1410.  The  tariff  for  European 
messages  is  considerably  higher  than  for  J apanese.  Dur- 
ing the  year  ending  with  June  1878, 1,045,442  messages 
were  transmitted,  only  23,000  of  which  were  foreign,  an 
increase  of  364,503  messages  in  one  year.  The  native 
newspapers  are  growing  into  the  habit  of  presenting 
their  readers  with  telegraphic  news  items,  and  the  Jap- 
anese have  taken  as  readily  to  the  telegraph  as  to  other 
innovations. 

Railroad  development  has  been  very  slow.  Only  76^ 
miles  are  open,  and  though  500  are  projected,  it  is  not 


THE  MERCANTILE  MARINE. 


329 


likel}'  that  much  progress  will  be  made  for  some  years 
to  come.  The  cost  of  construction  cannot  be  ascer- 
tained, as  Japanese  officials  arrange  all  contracts  and 
payments  without  furnishing  information  to  the  foreign 
engineers.  The  lines  are  substantially  built,  with  earth- 
works for  a double  way,  and  neat  stations  on  the  Eng- 
lish model.  One  source  of  difficulty  and  expense,  which 
helps  to  retard  railroad  progress,  is  that  the  beds  of  the 
rivers,  by  repeated  embankments,  have  mostly  been 
raised  higher  than  the  land  through  or  over  which  they 
pass,  and  whether  bridging  or  tunnelling  be  the  least 
costly  process,  is  a problem.  I have  already  pointed 
out  very  frequently  that  Japan  is  miserably  furnished 
with  the  means  of  internal  communication,  and  that 
good  roads  are  among  her  most  urgent  ’needs. 

The  Japanese  mercantile  marine  is  constantly  increas- 
ing in  importance,  and  the  Mitsu  Bishi  steamers,  as  to 
management,  cuisine.,  and  general  comfort,  bear  compari- 
son with  some  of  our  own  leading  lines.  This  company 
has  now  nearly  all  the  steam  coasting  traffic  of  Japan  in 
its  hands,  and  an  efficient  mail  service  to  Shanghai  and 
Hong  Kong.  The  total  Japanese  steam  tonnage  is 
36,543  tons,  but,  iu  addition,  there  are  a number  of  lake 
and  river  steamers,  of  which  no  statistics  exist.  The 
number  of  steamers  above  100  tons  is  57. 

The  number  of  vessels  of  foreign  rig  and  build  is  in- 
creasing. There  are  now  76  of  the  latter  class  above 
100  tons,  and  the  total  tonnage  is  27,319  tons.  The 
picturesque  but  comparatively  unseaworthy  junk  is 
likely  to  be  slowly  displaced  by  the  handier  schooner  of 
foreign  construction.  In  1872  the  number  of  junks 
above  6 tons  was  17,258,  but,  though  junk  statistics  have 
not  been  taken  since,  the  number  is  now  estimated  at 
15,000  only.  Some  of  these  are  as  much  as  190  tons, 
but,  taking  the  average  at  31,  the  total  junk  navy  is 


330  UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 

468,750  tons.  The  fishing  fieet  is  enormous,  and  a large 
portion  of  the  very  large  coast  population  is  engaged  in 
this  industry.  The  boats  under  6 ton  and  over  18  feet 
long  number  33,047,  and  the  boats  under  18  feet 
399,399. 

The  mercantile  marine  regulations  are  tolerably  strin* 
gent.  Marine  Schools  have  been  formed  for  giving  theo^ 
retical  and  practical  instruction  in  navigation  and  engi- 
neering, and  all  masters,  officers,  and  engineers  of  native 
owned  vessels,  must  pass  examinations  and  possess  cer- 
tificates, in  order  to  obtain  or  retain  nautical  positions. 
That  the  examinations  are  not  a matter  of  form  may  be 
inferred  from  the  fact  that  at  the  last,  out  of  219  candi- 
dates, 69,  including  9 foreigners,  failed  to  “ pass ! ” 
The  coasts  are  now  fairly  well  lighted,  and  most  of  the 
channels,  shoals,  and  sunken  rocks,  have  been  surveyed 
and  buoyed. 

Japan  has  two  Mints,  a paper  money  mint  at  T6kiy6, 
and  a metallic  mint  at  Osaka;  the  latter,  one  of  the 
largest  and  most  complete  in  the  world.  It,  like  the 
other  public  works  of  the  new  era,  was  organised  b}" 
foreigners,  but,  of  the  foreign  staff,  only  two  remain,  the 
chemist  and  assayer,  and  the  engineer,  with  a Japanese 
staff  of  602  persons,  including  a doctor.  The  total  value 
of  the  coinage  struck  from  1870  to  the  date  of  the  last 
report  exceeds  X17,000,000. 

The  gold  coinage  is  mainly  confined  to  5 yen  pieces, 
which  are  nearly  equal  to  a sovereign.  The  silver  coins 
are  the  yen^  the  trade  dollar,  and  50,  20,  10,  and  5 sen 
pieces.  In  the  year  ending  30th  June  1879,  92,073 
gold  coins  were  struck;  of  silver  yen.,  1,879,354;  of  the 
trade  dollar,  32,717;  of  10  sen.,  201,509;  and  of  the 
5 sen.,  2,894,201.  The  copper  coins  are  2 sen.,  1 sen.,  ^ 
seTi,  and  1 rin,  and  of  these  83  millions  were  struck. 
There  was,  however,  a deficiency  in  “ small  change,”  be* 


THE  PRESS.’ 


331 


cause  of  the  quantities  of  small  silver  coin  sent  by 
Government  to  China  and  the  Straits  Settlements,  where 
it  was  sold  at  a considerable  discount.  The  value  of  the 
coinage  for  the  year  was  £686,911,  and  the  total  value 
struck  at  the  Osaka  mint  since  its  commencement 
exceeds  £17,000,000  sterling.  The  Government  paper 
money  in  circulation,  which  consists  of  notes  from  10  sen 
upwards,  amounts  to  £22,675,598;  but  in  addition, 
£7,000,000  of  notes  have  been  issued  by  the  Japanese 
banks,  not  on  the  security  of  a certain  quantity  of  coin, 
but  on  that  of  Government  paper.  The  depreciation  of 
this  Government  paper  is  a very  disquieting  symptom  — 
the  discount  occasionally  reaching  52  per  cent.  People 
naturally  infer  that  Government  credit  is  bad,  the  paper 
issues  being  based  on  insufficient  metallic  reserves. 
During  my  journeys  in  Japan  1 never  saw  a gold  coin  in 
circulation ; small  silver  coins  were  difficult  to  obtain 
even  in  Yokohama,  and  from  Nikkd  northwards,  except 
at  Niigata,  I never  saw  any  silver,  or  a single  copper 
coin  of  the  new  coinage,  the  circulating  media  being 
paper,  under  a yen  in  value  ; the  large,  oval  temfo.,  and 
the  old  rin  with  a hole  in  the  middle,  my  own  specimens 
of  the  nev/^  silver  and  copper  coinage  being  regarded  as 
curiosities,  marked  preference  being  shown,  as  in  Scot 
land,  for  ‘‘notes,”  no  matter  how  old  or  soiled. 

The  newspaper  press,  which  consists  mainly  of 
“ dailies  ” and  “ weeklies  ” is  one  of  the  singular  features 
of  the  new  era.  The  first  newspaper  was  started  in  1871, 
they  numbered  211  in  the  middle  of  1879,  their  number 
is  always  on  the  increase,  and  they  have  an  aggregate 
circulation  of  nearly  29  million  copies.  Eleven  millions 
and  a quarter  passed  through  the  Post  Office  in  the  year 
ending  30th  June  1879,  an  increase  of  over  100  per 
cent  on  the  number  carried  in  1876.  They  circulate 
among  all  classes,  and  I have  reason  to  think  that 


332 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


a desire  to  read  them  is  a strong  stimulant  to  the  de- 
sire for  education  in  the  country  districts.  The  staple 
of  many  of  them  is  sensational  news  items,  current 
rumours,  and  novelettes,  which  are  said  to  minister  to 
depraved  tastes,  and  to  corrupt  the  morals  of  the  young. 
The  better  class  discuss  finance,  commerce,  morals, 
Christianity,  the  position  of  women,  the  Western  move* 
ment,  innovations,  education,  law  reform,  and  all  subjects 
which  affect  Japan,  but  politics  are  handled  with  ex- 
treme caution,  for  the  press  is  shackled  by  rigid  press 
laws,  enforced  by  heavy  penalties,  and  these  were  ren- 
dered more  stringent  in  1878.  Their  tone  can  be  judged 
of  by  their  leading  articles,  of  which  translations  appear 
weekly  in  the  Japan  Mail.  Ignorance  of  the  first  prin- 
ciples of  political  economy,  as  we  understand  them,  is 
usually  shown,  but  many  subjects  are  treated  with 
breadth  and  ability,  and  the  articles  are  pervaded  by 
remarkable  earnestness  and  an  intense  though  narrow 
patriotism. 

The  administration  of  law  is  undergoing  extensive 
reform  and  alteration,  and  as  its  present  condition  can 
only  be  regarded  as  tentative,  the  remarks  wliich  follow 
are  confined  to  the  criminal  code. 

Under  the  old  regime  Japanese  law  was  based  upon 
the  Chinese  codes  known  as  those  of  the  Ming  and 
Tsing  djmasties,  and  the  criminal  code  promulgated  in 
1871  and  altered  and  supplemented  in  1873,  was  mainly 
an  adaptation  of  these  to  the  needs  of  modern  Japan. 
These  codes,  with  some  additions  notified  in  1877,  at 
present  constitute  the  whole  penal  law  of  the  country, 
only  press  offences  and  some  minor  infringements  of 
administrative  and  police  regulations  being  excluded 
from  its  operation,  but  military  and  naval  offenders  are 
not  amenable  to  the  jurisdiction  of  the  ordinary  courts. 
The  excessive  penalties  of  the  Chinese  codes  have  been 


THE  PENAL  CODE. 


333 


modified  in  deference  to  modern  humanitarian  teach- 
ings, and  Japanese  law  in  practice  rarely  errs  on  the 
side  of  undue  severity. 

TJiere  are  twenty  degrees  of  punishment,  ten  of 
which  involve  from  ten  to  one  hundred  days’  imprison- 
ment, and  the  other  ten,  penal  servitude  from  one  year 
up  to  captivity  for  life.  In  some  cases  imprisonment, 
where  it  is  unaccompanied  with  “hard  labour,”  may  be 
undergone  in  the  offender’s  own  house,  his  relations 
being  responsible  for  his  safe  custody,  and  punishment 
undergoes  a few  other  modifications  varying  with  the 
rank  of  the  criminal.  Persons  who,  before  discovery, 
make  a full  confession  of  other  crimes  than  those 
against  the  person  are  exempted  from  penalties. 

The  system  of  criminal  procedure  consists  of  a series 
of  private  examinations  of  the  accused  person  and  wit- 
nesses. The  accused  is  not  assisted  by  experts  or 
friends,  he  cannot  interrogate  the  witnesses,  nor  can  he 
compel  those  to  appear  who  could  give  evidence  in  his 
favour.  The  prosecutor,  who  is  always  an  official,  sits 
on  the  bench  with  the  judges,  and  trial  is  merely  an  in- 
vestigation. Torture,  though  not  formally  abolished, 
is,  it  is  believed,  rarely  practised,  and  the  use  of  an  “ In- 
vestigation Whip  ” is  left  to  the  discretion  of  the  judges, 
who,  if  they  resort  to  it  at  all,  do  so  only  when  they 
are  satisfied  of  the  guilt  of  an  accused  person  who  pro- 
tests his  innocence. 

The  law,  severe  to  female  criminals  in  some  respects, 
is  tender  in  others,  and  allows  them  to  expiate  grave 
offences,  except  that  of  “violation  of  filial  duty,”  by 
fines,  and  shows  a peculiar  lenity  to  the  very  young  and 
very  old,  persons  between  the  ages  of  10  and  15,  and 
between  70  and  80,  being  allowed  to  commute  any  pun- 
ishment, except  that  of  death,  by  the  payment  of  a 
fine,  while  those  between  7 and  10  and  between  80  and 


834 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


90  can  only  be  punished  for  theft  and  wounding,  and 
those  under  7 and  over  90  are  ineligible  for  punish- 
ment at  all ! 

Wilful  murder,  under  which  head  infanticide  is 
classed,  is  punished  with  death,  and  assaults  are  severe- 
ly dealt  with,  a mere  blow  with  the  hand  being  visited 
with  20  days’  penal  servitude.  Assaults  on  Govern- 
ment officials  are  punished  according  to  the  rank  of  the 
official  assaulted,  and  the  penalties  are  exceptionally 
severe,  extending  even  unto  death.  Offences  against 
property  are  treated  severely,  robbery  by  armed  men, 
if  it  succeeds,  being  punishable  by  beheading,  and  if  it 
fails,  by  hanging.  Common  robbery  is  visited  with 
penal  servitude  for  life,  and  accidental  homicide,  during 
the  commission  of  a robbery,  by  hanging. 

The  domestic  laws,  as  we  may  term  them,  are  strong- 
ly in  favour  of  husbands  and  parents.  Thus,  a hus- 
band may  assault  his  wife  as  much  as  he  pleases  if  he 
avoids  making  a cutting  wound,  and  even  then  the  pub- 
lic prosecutor  cannot  take  cognisance  of  the  offence 
except  at  the  wife’s  request,  but  if  a wife  commits  a 
common  assault  on  her  husband,  she  is  liable  to  100 
days’  penal  servitude,  and  for  a husband  to  slay  an 
offending  wife  and  her  paramour  is  no  crime  at  all, 
unless  a certain  time  has  elapsed  since  the  discovery  of 
the  offence.  A parent  who  beats  a child  to  death  only 
incurs  2^  years  of  penal  servitude,  and  a parent  bring- 
ing a false  and  malicious  accusation  against  a child  is 
not  punished  at  all;  but  a child  who  disobeys  the  law- 
ful commands  of  his  parent  is  liable  to  penal  servitude 
for  100  days.  Non-observance  of  the  prescribed  period 
of  mourning  for  parents  is  visited  with  penal  servitude 
for  one  year.  A senior  relative  is  not  punished  for  an 
assault  on  a junior,  unless  an  incised  wound  be  inflicted, 
and  even  then  the  penalty  is  mitigated  according  to  the 


OFFENCES  AND  PUNISHMENTS. 


335 


Qearness  of  the  relationship.  A recent  statute  prohib- 
its parents  and  husbands  from  selling  their  wives  or 
daughters  to  the  joroyas  without  their  consent,  under 
severe  penalties.  Discarding  the  son  of  a wife  in 
favour  of  that  of  a concubine  is  visited  with  90  days’ 
penal  servitude,  and  a father  who  turns  his  son-in-law 
out  of  doors,  and  gives  his  wife  to  a second  husband, 
incurs  the  same  penalty.  Breaches  of  the  seventh 
commandment  are  punished  by  penal  servitude  for  one 
year,  without  distinction  of  sex. 

Lovers  arrested  in  the  act  of  committing  suicide,  are 
punished  by  ten  years  of  penal  servitude.  Trafficking 
in  opium  is  forbidden  under  pain  of  beheading,  and  in- 
citing to  the  use  of  it,  under  pain  of  hanging.  Gam- 
bling is  punished  by  penal  servitude  for  80  days,  unless 
the  stakes  have  been  limited  to  something  which  can  be 
eaten  or  drunk.  Misconduct  not  specially  provided 
against  iu  the  codes  is  termed  “ impropriety,”  and  may 
be  visited  with  from  30  to  100  days  of  penal  servitude. 
Among  “ improprieties  ” are  breaking  idols,  disseminat- 
ing false,  malicious,  or  alarming  reports,  and  publish- 
ing written  matter  which  may  cause  difficulties  in  the 
administration  of  the  Government,  the  latter  being  a 
heading  under  which  all  free  expression  of  opinion  is 
liable  to  be  classed. 

The  Government  is  thoroughly  in  earnest  in  the  re- 
form of  its  judicial  system,  and  has  been  engaged  for 
some  time  past  in  the  compilation  of  a new  penal  code, 
which,  it  is  understood,  will  be  modelled  on  the  French 
criminal  law.  Whether  the  French  or  any  other  Euro- 
pean system  is  suited  to  the  present  condition  of  the 
Japanese  people  is  a question  of  great  importance  and 
difficulty,  and  the  Government  will  probably  not  be  in 
a hurry  to  decide  it.  A new  code  on  a European  model 
will  compel  the. careful  training  of  the  Judges  who  are 


336 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


to  apply  it,  the  reorganisation  of  the  Courts,  and  the 
establisliment  of  a system  of  procedure  which  will  ad- 
mit of  evidence  being  taken  according  to  fixed  rules. 
It  will  also  demand  that  accused  persons  in  criminal 
cases  shall  be  openly  tried  and  defended,  and  that  there 
shall  be  a free  examination  of  witnesses,  both  by  the 
prosecution  and  defence.  A system  of  procedure  so 
novel  and  alien  to  custom  and  precedent,  could  only  be 
carried  out  effectively  by  judges  of  independent  posi- 
tion, aided  by  an  educated  bar,  but  the  officials  who  at 
present  occupy  the  bench  are  removable  at  the  will  of 
the  Minister  of  Justice,  and  barristers  are  not  yet  rec- 
ognised in  Japanese  courts.^  Legal  reform  is  one  of 
the  most  important  questions  which  the  Government 
has  to  face,  and  the  promulgation  of  a code,  however 
admirable,  is  only  the  initial  step.  It  not  only  involves 
the  reconstruction  of  the  Courts,  the  abolition  of  the 
present  system  of  procedure,  and  the  creation  of  a new 
judicature,  but  a revolution  in  Japanese  traditional 
notions  of  justice,  and  in  the  customs  which  are  inter- 
woven with  centuries  of  national  life.  In  the  present 
preliminary  stage  of  reform,  the  administration  of  jus 
tice  fails  to  command  the  confidence  of  foreigners,  and 
foreign  governments  are  naturally  unwilling  to  surren 
der  the  extra-territorial  rights  acquired  by  treaty,  which 
place  their  subjects  in  Japan,  as  in  other  Oriental  coun- 
tries, under  the  jurisdiction  of  their  own  laws. 

Nothing  is  more  surprising  than  the  efforts  which  the 
Government  is  making  to  educate  the  people,  and  it  is 
addressing  itself  to  this  task  annually  with  increasiLg 
thoroughness.  The  new  educational  system  was  planned 
on  a noble  scale  in  1873,  by  an  ordinance  which  divided 
the  Empire  into  seven  school  districts,  and  gave  one 

1 Tlie  “ advocates  ” mentioned  on  p.  317,  vol.  i.,  are  wliat  in  England 
would  be  called  “ attorneys.” 


THE  EDUCATIONAL  SYSTEM. 


337 


school  to  every  600  inhabitants.  It  is  based  upon 
elementary  schools,  and  ascends  through  Middle  and 
Normal  Schools  to  Foreign  Language  Schools,  and  Col- 
leges for  Special  Sciences.  The  Education  Report  for 
1877,  published  in  1879,  gives  the  number  of  elementary 
schools  at  25,459,  with  a total  of  59,825  teachers,  58,- 
267  of  whom  were  males  and  1558  females.  The  total 
number  of  scholars  was  2,162,962,  or  1,594,792  boys 
and  568,220  girls,  school  age  being  from  six  to  fourteen. 
The  increase  on  the  previous  year  was  12.27  per  cent, 
but  the  percentage  of  daily  attendance,  which  was 
70.77,  was  a decrease  of  4.13  per  cent. 

In  these  schools  the  older  pupils  learn  both  the  Jcata- 
kana  and  the  Chinese  characters ; they  read  geograpliy 
and  history,  are  exercised  in  arithmetic  with  western 
numerals  and  signs,  and  are  trained  to  give  “object 
lessons  ” to  the  younger  scholars,  a form  of  instruction 
which  finds  increasing  favour.  Something  is  done  for 
health  by  means  of  liglit  and  heavy  gymnastics,  and 
among  recent  innovations  is  the  orderly  marching  to 
and  Rom  seats.  In  some  schools  the  boys  are  trained 
to  give  precedence  to  girls.  Examinations  take  place 
at  the  re-opening  .after  the  holidays,  and  officers  ap- 
pointed by  the  Education  Department  inspect  the 
schools  and  report  upon  their  efficiency.  Different 
text  books  to  the  number  of  174  are  used,  mostly  of 
foreign  origin,  and  often  misleading  from  the  imperfec- 
tions of  the  translation. 

The  course  of  study  and  the  regulations  for  the 
piimary  schools  were  modelled  on  those  of  the  Govern- 
ment Normal  Schools,  uniformity  being  tlie  object  aimed 
at;  but  it  has  been  found  that  the  neglect  of  local 
custom,  aptitude,  and  requirements,  and  the  ignoring  of 
the  differences  between  a rural  and  urban  population 
produced  ver}*  unsatisfactory  results,  and  the  system  is 


338 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


undergoing  modifications  which  will  increase  its  effi- 
ciency. Simpler  text-books  are  being  prepared,  as,  for 
instance,  Dne  on  geography,  in  which  the  physical  con- 
ditions, productions,  etc.,  of  the  special  locality  for 
which  it  is  required  are  treated  of.  The  standard  of 
instruction  has  been  raised  too  high  for  a peasant  popu- 
lation, and  has  mcreased  the  difficulty  of  obtaining 
competent  teachers;  and  hard  and  fast  rules  as  to 
school  terms,  in  regions  where  children  pursue  indus- 
trial occupations,  have  prevented  many  from  attending 
schools  at  all. 

It  was  intended  that  the  elementary  school  system 
should  be  administered  by  the  people,  but  it  has  been 
found  that  it  has  largely  fallen  into  the  hands  of  local 
Government  officials.  In  the  report  issued  in  1877  Mr. 
Tanaka,  then  acting  Minister  of  Education,  remarks 
that  although  at  first  “educational  matters  required 
direct  interference  on  the  part  of  public  officers,  it 
would  be  a misfortune  for  the  interests  of  schools  to  be 
left  continually  so,”  and  fears  “ lest,  owing  to  a want  of 
interest  on  the  part  of  the  people,  a retrograde  move 
ment  may  set  in.”  He  foreshadows  Japanese  schoc''- 
boards  by  saying  that  “ school  matters  should  be  com- 
mitted as  far  as  possible  to  the  self-management  of  the 
people,  by  making  them  understand  that  it  is  their  duty 
to  assume  the  matters  of  schools  to  themselves,”  and 
advises  the  local  governments  to  give  them  all  tlie 
encouragement  and  help  which  can  assist  them  :n  tJic 
performance  of  this  duty. 

It  must  not  be  overlooked  that  the  initial  difficulty 
in  Japanese  education  arises  from  the  complexity  of  the 
language  and  of  the  ideographic  symbols,  and  that  the 
teaching  of  3000  of  the  latter  is  undertaken  in  the 
primary  schools!  The  supply  of  properly  qualified 
teachers  for  the  lower  grades  of  schools,  though  increas 


THE  EDUCATIONAL  SYSTEM. 


339 


ing,  is  still  deficient,  and  imperfect  training  is  still  an- 
swerable for  defects,  many  men  taking  their  places  as 
pedagogues  after  only  100  days  in  the  normal  schools. 

The  total  revenue  for  the  year  was  £1,340,000,  of 
which  sum  £537,000  was  made  up  by  local  votes, 
£161,000  by  voluntary  contributions,  £78,000  by  fees, 
and  £109,000  by  Government  aid,  the  expenditure 
being  £1,072,000,  and  the  total  value  of  school  property 
£2,593,000 ; teachers’  salaries  averaged  something  under 
£9  a year,  and  school  fees  about  8d.  for  each  child.  It 
is  to  be  noted  that  besides  £161,000  in  money  volun- 
tarily contributed  for  the  primary  schools,  they  received 
large  donations  of  land,  310  buildings,  16,576  sets  of 
school  apparatus,  26,507  complete  sets  of  books,  and 
miscellaneous  contributions  to  the  amount  of  £1200. 
Within  the  last  five  years  the  voluntary  contributions 
in  money  only  have  exceeded  one  million  seven  hundred 
thousand  pounds  ! 

The  middle  schools  have  increased  rapidly  in  numbers 
during  the  last  four  years,  in  consequence  mainly  of  an 
increased  desire  for  the  acquisition  of  the  higher  com- 
mon branches  of  learning.  The  course  of  instruction 
extends  over  2i,  3,  4,  or  5 years,  and  the  studies,  slightly 
modified  by  local  considerations  are  as  follows : — writ- 
ing, grammar,  composition,  drawing,  language,  foreign 
languages  (English  being  taught  in  15  schools),  geogra- 
phy, history,  arithmetic,  algebra,  geometry,  physics, 
chemistry,  astronomy,  geology,  natural  history,  physi- 
ology, agriculture,  mechanics,  commerce,  book-keeping, 
statistics,  mental  and  moral  philosophy,  political  econ- 
omy, law,  and  gymnastics.  This  is  a very  ambitious 
course,  for  which  the  instruction  in  the  primary  schools 
can  scarcely  be  regarded  as  preparatory.  There  were 
389  middle  schools,  with  910  teachers,  only  23  of  whom 
were  females.  In  these  schools  there  is  the  first  ap- 


340 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN, 


pearance  of  the  foreign  element  in  education,  15  foreign 
men  and  1 foreign  woman  being  employed.  The  number  ' 
of  students  was  20,522,  an  increase  of  nearly  9000  over 
the  previous  year,  but  the  female  students  only  number 

1112. 

* The  educational  system  includes  schools  for  special 
sciences,  of  which  there  were  52  in  different  localities, 
with  161  teachers  and  3361  students.  These  colleges 
teach  hnv,  medicine,  agriculture,  commerce,  navigation, 
chemistry,  mathematics,  etc.  Mathematics  was  the 
specialty  of  the  larger  number  of  them,  and  medical 
and  commercial  schools  come  next  in  order,  the  medical 
being  by  far  the  most  important. 

The  edifice  is  crowned  by  the  University  of  TOkiyO, 
which  includes  departments  of  law,  literature,  and 
science,  the  TokiyO  Medical  College,  a preparatory  de- 
partment formerly  knovTi  as  an  English  language 
school,  and  a botanic  garden.  The  number  of  students 
in  the  three  first  departments  was  710,  and  the  instruc- 
tors numbered  56,  32  being  Japanese,  and  24  foreign. 
The  preparatory  course  includes  English,  mathematics, 
geography,  physics,  chemistry,  history,  political  econo- 
my, philosophy,  natural  history,  drawing,  etc.,  and 
covers  three  }^ears.  The  special  course  of  Law  em- 
braces International  and  the  various  branches  of  Eng- 
lish Law ; Science  includes  Chemistry,  Physics,  and 
Engineering;  and  Literature,^  whidi  is  a new  depart* 
ment,  includes  the  different  branches  usually  tauglit 
under  that  head.  The  complete  graduation  course  is 
five  3"ears.  During  1875-1876  nineteen  students  of 
special  ability  were  sent  to  foreign  countries,  of  which 
number  more  than  half  have  completed  their  education, 
and  have  obtained  the  master’s  or  bachelor’s  degree  of 
the  universities  or  colleges  to  which  they  were  sent. 
They  receive  loans  of  .£200  a year,  a hea^y  debt  with 
wliich  to  start  upon  poorly-salaried  life  at  home. 


THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  t6KIY6. 


341 


The  Medical  Department,  which  is  mainly  under 
German  influence,  divides  its  students  into  two  classes, 
medical  and  pharmaceutical,  and  provides  two  courses, 
preparatory  and  special.  The  supply  of  instructed 
practitioners  is  so  limited  that  a short  and  simple  course 
of  medicine  for  day  students  was  organised  in  1876, 
and  in  1877,  293  students  availed  themselves  of  it. 
The  preparatory  course  includes  geology,  botany,  nat- 
ural history,  mineralogy,  geography,  physics,  mathe- 
matics, chemistry,  German,  Latin,  etc. ; and  the  special 
course  comprises  medicine,  surgery,  obstetrics,  zoology, 
botany,  materia  medica,  anatomy,  histology,  physics, 
physiology,  and  chemistry.  A hospital,  library,  ana- 
tomical rooms,  botanical  and  zoological  collections,  and 
an  extensive  supply  of  surgical  and  medical  apparatus, 
are  attached  to  the  department,  and  in  1877, 117  corpses 
were  subjected  to  dissection.  The  hospital  treated  836 
in-patients  and  4290  out-patients  in  the  same  period. 
At  least  seven-tenths  of  the  medical  practitioners  of 
the  Empire  still  pursue  the  method  of  the  Chinese 
schools,  and  the  Medical  College  promises  a most  im- 
portant advance  in  curative  and  surgical  science.  The 
total  number  of  day  and  resident  medical  students,  in- 
cluding those  ill  the  preparatory  department,  was  1040, 
with  24  Japanese  and  11  foreign  instructors.  The 
annual  cost  of  the  four  departments  of  the  University 
of  T61dy6  is  estimated  at  <£55,000. 

There  were  two  Normal  Colleges  (^.e.  Normal  schools 
inr  training  teachers  for  the  middle  schools),  with  25 
instructors  and  177  students ; and  96  Normal  schools 
(for  training  teachers  for  the  elementary  schools),  5 of 
which  were  for  females.  The  latter  contained  , 7222 
males  and  727  females,  and  were  instructed  by  766  male 
and  24  female  teachers.  The  scarcity  of  competent 
teachers  for  the  elementary  schools  is  still  severely  felt, 


842 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


and  the  Government  is  most  anxious  to  extend  the 
supply  and  increase  the  acquirements  of  teachers  by 
rendering  the  course  of  study  and  training  in  these 
schools  more  complete  and  efficient.  The  Normal 
School  course  covers  two  years,  and  usually  compre- 
liends  history,  geography,  mathematics,  phj'sics,  chem- 
istry, natural  history,  moral  philosophy,  political  econo- 
my, physiology,  book-keeping,  composition,  pedagogics, 
practice  of  teaching,  hygiene,  singing,  and  gymnastics, 
to  which  logic  and  the  elements  of  English  are  occa- 
sionally added. 

The  foreign  language  schools  were  at  one  time  re- 
garded as  of  great  unportance,  and  certain  progressive 
persons,  notably  Mr.  Mori,  the  present  Minister  to  Eng- 
land, cherished  hopes  of  the  introduction  of  English 
under  certain  modifications  into  Japan  as  the  written 
and  eventually  as  the  spoken  language,  and  many  peo- 
ple here  seem  to  suppose  that  this  project  has  made 
much  headway.  It  is  a remarkable  fact  that  in  the 
single  year  dealt  with  by  the  last  report  (that  for  1877) 
the  number  of  foreign  language  schools  decreased  from 
92  to  28,  and  that  the  chief  reason  assigned  for  the  de- 
crease is  that  “the  people  have  learned  that  foreign 
languages  are  not  very  useful  or  serviceable  outside  of 
the  large  cities  opened  for  commerce,  and  that  they 
cannot  be  profitably  studied  by  the  mass  of  the  popula- 
tion.” In  the  same  year  the  number  of  native  teachers 
decreased  by  298,  and  that  of  foreign  teachers  by  35; 
that  of  male  studei  ts  by  4223,  and  that  of  females  by 
347.  In  the  schools  which  remain  English  is  taught  in 
25,  German  in  1,  Chinese  in  1,  and  French,  German, 
Russian,  and  Chinese  in  1,  the  total  number  being  28, 
with  109  teachers,  27  of  whom  are  foreign,  and  1522 
students,  120  of  whom  were  females. 

The  total  number  of  foreign  teachers  in  Government 


FEMALE  EDUCATION. 


843 


employment  was  97,  65  of  whom  were  English  and 
American. 

Increased  attention  is  being  paid  to  female  education, 
the  various  mission  schools  are  producing  considerable 
rivalry,  and  the  Empress  Haruku  has  come  prominently 
forward  as  a patroness  of  “the  higher  education  of 
women.”  In  the  elementary  schools,  the  number  of 
female  teachers  was  1558,  an  increase  of  over  100  per 
cent  on  the  number  in  1875,  and  with  the  advantages 
offered  by  5 Normal  schools,  the  number  of  women  who 
are  qualifying  themselves  for  the  profession  of  teaching 
is  increasing  considerably.  The  number  being  trained 
in  the  Normal  schools  was  727,  an  increase  of  264  on 
the  previous  year ; but  in  the  middle  schools  there  was 
a decrease  in  the  already  small  number  of  female  stu- 
dents. In  the  primary  schools  the  number  of  girls  had 
increased  8.34  per  cent,  while  the  number  of  boys  had 
only  increased  3.93,  but  still  of  the  total  number  of 
children  in  these  schools,  the  girls  are  only  one-third. 
The  pupils  in  the  schools  for  female  handicraft  number 
nearly  3000.  Mr.  Tanaka  is  strongly  in  favour  of  the 
multiplication  of  female  teachers.  He  writes,  “ The 
education  of  children  should  be  so  conducted  as  to 
develop  grace  and  gentleness  of  manners  and  deport- 
ment. If  they  are  brought  up  under  the  influence  of 
the  gentler  qualities  of  female  teachers,  a much  better 
result  may  be  expected  to  be  attained  than  where  they 
are  trained  entirely  by  men.” 

Instruction  is  everywhere  conveyed  on  Western  prin- 
ciples, and  the  pupils  in  the  upper  schools  are  required 
to  sit  on  benches  and  work  at  desks.  In  the  Govern- 
ment colleges,  innovation  is  carried  so  far  that  the  stu- 
dents eat  food  prepared  in  European  fashion,  and  use 
knives  and  forks. 

Intellectual  ardour,  eager  receptiveness,  admirable 


344  . 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


behaviour,  earnest  self-control,  docility,  and  an  appetite 
for  hard  and  continuous  ’ work,  characterise  Japanese 
students ; and  their  average  intellectual  power  and 
general  ability  are  regarded  by  their  foreign  teachers  as 
equal  to  those  of  Western  students.  Further  compari- 
sons must  be  left  to  the  future.  The  earnest  work 
done  by  both  teachers  and  students  has  already  resulted 
in  the  turning  out  of  a number  of  young  men,  well 
equipped  both  in  the  intellectual  and  technical  training 
needed  for  practical  work ; and  it  is  not  too  much  to 
expect  that  in  a few  years  the  empire  will  be  able  to 
dispense  with  the  services  of  foreigners  in  most  of  the 
Government  departments,  and  that  the  resources  of 
Japan  will  be  developed  by  the  Japanese. 

It  remains  to  be  pointed  out  that  in  the  absence  of  a 
compulsory  law,  only  39.9  per  cent  of  the  population 
of  school  age  is  at  school,  i.e.  that  3,158,000  children 
are  not  receiving  any  instruction,  that  a large  propor- 
tion of  the  peasantry  is  in  the  lowest  stage  of  mental 
development,  that  throughout  extensive  districts  the 
children  are  surrounded  by  influences  tending  towards 
intellectual  and  moral  debasement,  and  that  a vast  and 
not  altogether  inert  mass  of  ignorance  and  superstition 
still  exists  to  impede  progress,  embarrass  the  Govern- 
ment, and  break  out  in  trivial  local  disturbances. 

The  primary  school  system,  besides  its  need  (as 
pointed  out  in  Mr.  Tanaka’s  able  reports)  of  being 
placed  on  a sound  and  efficient  basis,  is  marked,  I 
think,  by  two  radical  defects,  — the  general  omission  of 
moral  training  (the  moral  teaching  of  the  Chinese  clas- 
sics being  suffered  to  fall  into  disuse  under  the  new  sys- 
tem, the  classics  being  used  chiefly  as  a vehicle  for 
teaching  the  Chinese  character),  and  the  revolutionary 
attempt  to  force  European  methods,  culture,  and  modes 
of  thought  upon  an  unprepared  people.  Till  the  ele- 


PRIMARY  SCHOOL  SYSTEM. 


345 


me^tary  education  is  rendered  more  thorougli  and  effi- 
cient, various  perils  attend  upon  the  higher  education, 
and  in  tlie  present  lack  of  careers  for  men  of  culture 
solely,  there  is  some  risk  that  one  or  two  of  the  higher 
colleges  which  aim  at  imparting  culture,  but  do  not  pro- 
fess to  give  a thorough  training  in  those  branches  of 
knowledge  which  are  of  practical  utility  in  work-a-day 
life  may  increase  the  number  of  glib  and  superficial 
smattercrs  who  despise  manual  labour,  affect  expensive 
foreign  habits,  and  render  the  task  of  government  in- 
creasingly difficult  by  rushing  into  the  newspapers  with 
wild  philosophical  speculations,  Utopian  social  schemes, 
and  crude  political  theories. 

These  remarks  are  not  made  in  any  spirit  of  invidi- 
ous criticism.  Japan  deserves  the  very  highest  credit 
for  spending  twice  as  much  upon  her  elementary  schools 
as  upon  her  Navy,  for  her  desire  to  construct  her  educa- 
tional system  upon  the  best  models,  for  her  readiness 
to  correct'defects  and  learn  by  failures,  and  for  her  no- 
ble efforts  to  bring  education  within  the  reach  of  all 
classes ; but  we  must  bear  in  mind  that  the  primary 
school  system  is  still  in  its  infanc}^  that  three  millions 
of  children  are  without  education,  that  very  much  has 
yet  to  be  done,  and  that  the  future  of  the  empire  is  un- 
doubtedly imperilled  by  a vast  mass  of  ignorance  and 
superstition  on  the  one  hand,  and  by  a superficial  exotic 
culture  on  the  other. 

The  problem  of  “how  to  make  ends  meet”  has 
vexed  the  brains  and  tested  the  resomces  of  Japanese 
statesmen  ever  since  1871,  when  tlie  Mikado  assumed 
the  responsibility  of  the  debts  which  the  daimiyd  had 
contracted  to  Japanese  subjects  before  the  llestoration, 
and  of  the  paper  money  of  all  sorts  and  values  which 
they  had  issued,  substituting  for  it  a uniform  paper  cur- 
rency. The  reduction  to  order  of  the  chaotic  confu- 


346 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


sion  of  the  financial  system  under  the  feudal  regime 
was  carried  out  with  so  much  vigour  and  ability,  that 
by  1873  the  Government  was  able  to  publish  estimates 
of  the  national  revenue  for  that  year,  which,  as  might 
be  expected,  were  faulty  in  form,  and  not  altogether  ac- 
curate in  detail.  Each  subsequent  year  has  brought  an 
improvement,  and  the  estimates  for  the  twelve  months 
ending  with  June  1880  are  as  correct  in  form,  and  on 
the  whole  as  explicit  in  detail,  as  those  of  some  Euro- 
pean states,  and  are  accompanied  by  a Finance  Report 
which  reflects  great  credit  upon  Mr.  Okuma,  the  Fi- 
nance Minister. 

It  must  be  borne  in  mind,  however,  that  official  ac- 
counts of  expenditure  have  only  been  issued  down  to 
1875,  that  there  is  no  public  body  which  has  power 
to  look  into  and  audit  accounts,  and  that  confidence  in 
Japanese  financial  statements  must  rest  partly  on  the 
character  of  the  Finance  Minister,  and  partly  on  the 
fact  that  the  Government  has  been  able  to  pay  its  way 
without  having  recourse  to  oppressive  or  risky  expedi- 
ents. This  confidence  is  increased  by  the  manly  tone 
of  Mr.  Okuma’s  last  report,  in  which,  after  regretting 
that  the  financial  system  still  falls  short  of  complete- 
ness, he  “begs  respectfully  to  observe  that  the  essence 
of  finance  is  to  be  as  exact  and  minute  as  possible,  and 
that  records  are  only  of  utility  when  they  are  complete 
and  methodical ; ” and  expresses  his  earnest  desire  that 
from  this  year  onwards,  “ additional  accuracy  may  be 
attained,  and  both  estimates  and  accounts  of  the  na- 
tional finances  become  more  and  more  methodical.  ” 
This  is  much  to  be  desired  in  the  interests  of  Japan, 
but  that  which  has  already  been  accomplished  in  the 
short  period  of  nine  years  reflects  great  credit  upon  a 
country  which  had  special  difficulties  to  encounter  in 
the  unification  of  its  financial  system. 


THE  NATIONAL  DEBT. 


347 


Japan  has  not  been  behind  other  civilised  nations  in 
tlie  rapid  contraction  of  a National  Debt,  which  at  the 
present  time  amounts  to  <£72,000,000,  but  a compara- 
tively small  portion  of  this  has  been  incurred  volunta- 
rily, or  has  been  spent  upon  the  material  progress  which 
has  astonished  the  world.  The  legacy  of  debt  inherited 
from  the  old  regime  amounted  to  £14,215,000,  and  to 
this  sum  we  must  add  £40,312,000,  which  was  j’equired 
to  redeem  the  hereditary  pensions  of  the  higher  nobles 
and  the  military  caste,  as  well  as  those  granted  to 
Shinto  priests.  In  other  words,  it  cost  Japan  £54,527,- 
000  in  round  numbers  to  close  accounts  with  her  his- 
toric past.  The  Government  was  also  forced  to  resort 
to  loans  to  meet  war  expenses,  mainly  incurred  through 
risings  against  its  authority ; the  Satsuma  Rebellion  in 
^ 1877  added  £8,400,000  to  its  indebtedness,  and  the 
Formosa  Expedition  demanded  loans  amounting  nearly 
to  £2,000,000  more.  What  may  be  termed  the  volun- 
tary debt  of  the  new  regime  may  be  estimated  at 
£9,855,000,  and  £3,600,000  may  be  termed  Industrial 
Loans,  including  the  London  Railway  Loan.  Only 
one-thirtieth  of  the  whole  National  Debt  is  due  to  for- 
eigners, and  the  average  rate  of  interest  on  both  for- 
eign and  domestic  debt  is  4i  per  cent,  the  rate  of  interest 
on  private  debts  being  12.20  per  cent.  The  interest 
on  the  debt  demands  £3,183,000  annually,  out  of  a 
revenue  of  £11,130,000.  Paper  money  issued  by  the 
Government  to  the  amount  of  £24,000,000,  but  dimin- 
ished by  the  withdrawal  of  £1,477,000,  constitutes  32.2 
per  cent  of  the  debt,  and  has  been  spent,  as  it  appears, 
mainly  on  the  politically  necessary,  but  unproductive 
expenses  of  the  redemption  of  the  paper  money,  and 
the  assumption  of  the  debts  of  the  daimiyd.>  in  order  to 
make  the  unification  of  the  empire  possible,  on  extraor- 
dinary war  expenses,  mainly  in  order  to  preserve  its  in 


348 


UNBEATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


tegritj,  and  the  formation  of  a Reserve  Fund,  consisting 
partly  of  ready  money,  for  the  purpose  of  meeting  un- 
foreseen contingencies  and  perils.  It  does  not  appear 
that  the  Government  issue  of  paper  has  largely  increased 
the  circulating  medium,  because  it  has  been  required  to 
replace  former  paper  issued  by  the  daimiyd,  and  coiii 
which  has  left  the  country  in  consequence  of  the  im- 
ports being  largely  in  excess  of  the  exports.  The  Na 
tional  Debt  stands  at  the  present  time  thus  — 


Domestic  debt  bearing  interest  . 

£45,726,226 

0 

0 

Domestic  debt  bearing  no  interest,  including 

Government  paper  money 

24,735,544 

0 

0 

Total  of  domestic  debt 

£70,461,770 

0 

0 

Foreign  debt  .... 

2,365,824 

0 

0 

Total  of  domestic  and  foreign  debt  in 

round  numbers  (about) 

£72,827,590 

0 

0 

The  chief  source  of  revenue  is  the  Imperial  Land 
Tax,  which  has  been  reduced  to  2J  per  cent  on  the  sell- 
ing value  of  the  land,  and  it  is  estimated  that  this  tax 
will  produce  £8,200,000  during  the  current  year.  ^Then 
follow  the  tax  on  alcoholic  liquors,  which  it  is  estimated 
will  yield  £901,000;  the  export  and  import  duties, 
£428,000 ; the  profits  on  Government  industrial  under- 
takings, £238,000;  postage  stamps,  £210,000;  the  tax 
on  legal  documents,  £107,000;  the  tax  on  companies, 
£100,000 ; the  tax  on  tobacco,  £69,000 ; the  tax  on  the 
pioduce  of  the  HokkaidO  (Yezo),  £72,000  ; and  the  tax 
on  vehicles,  £54,000. 

For  the  year  ending  June  30,  1880,  the  revenue  is 
estimated  at  £11,130,000,  being  an  increase  of  £475,000 
over  the  preceding  year,  this  increase  being  accounted 
for  mainly  by  increased  receipts  from,  import  and  ex- 
port duties,  from  land,  mining,  liquor,  ship,  boat,  and 


THE  NATIONAL  DEBT. 


849 


vehicle  taxes;  from  increased  post-office  receipts  and 
copyright  fees,  and  from  the  increasing  number  of  per- 
sons taking  out  attorney’s  horse,  cattle-dealers’,  and 
druggists’  licenses. 

The  expenditure,  for  the  reason  that  all  surplus  is  to 
be  applied  to  the  reduction  of  debt,  is  estimated  at  ex- 
actly the  same  sum  as  the  revenue.  Among  its  chief 
items  are  the  interest  on  the  National  Debt,  <£3,130,000 ; 
the  army,  which  costs  £1,438,000;  the  administration 
of  fu  and  ken.,  £757,000;  the  navy,  £527,000;  the 
police,  £497,000;  and  colonisation,  £302,000.  This 
year’s  appropriation  for  embankments  is  £289,000; 
for  education,  £227,000 ; for  industrial  undertakings, 
£201,000;  and  for  the  Civil  List  and  appanages  of 
Imperial  Princes,  £175,000.  It  is  noteworthy  that  the 
charge  for  the  Ministry  of  Public  Worship  appears  for 
the  last  time  in  1876-1877,  and  that  the  appropriation 
for  the  “ Temples  of  the  Gods,”  which  was  £44,000 
in  1875-1876  and  1877,  has  decreased  to  £27,000  for 
1879-1880.1 

The  magnitude  of  the  national  debt  is  the  outstand- 
ing feature  of  Japanese  finance,  but  it  may  be  a surprise 
to  some  readers  to  learn  that  the  cost  of  the  projects 
entered  upon  by  the  new  regime  and  of  the  reconstruc- 
tion of  the  Empire  is  under  £10,000,000;  that  53.7  per 
cent  of  the  whole  debt  is  regarded  by  Mr.  Mayet,  the 
Councillor  to  the  Finance  Department,  as  “ directly 
profitable ; ” that  a reserve  fund  of  £5,000,000  has  been 
created  out  of  surplus  revenue ; and  that  the  following 
extraordinary  expenses  have  been  met  out  of  ordinary 
revenue : — The  creation  and  equipment  of  an  army, 
with  large  military  workshops,  barracks,  etc. ; the  pur- 
chase and  construction  of  a navy  of  27  ships  of  all 

1 For  general  tables  of  revenue  and  expenditure  for  1879-1880  the 
reader  is  referred  to  Mr.  Okuma’s  estimates  given  in  Appendix  C. 


350 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


classes,  including  ironclads,  and  the  establishment  of 
arsenals,  building-yards,  and  docks;  the  equipment  of 
the  coast  with  an  efficient  system  of  lighthouses;  the 
construction  of  8000  miles  of  telegraph,  with  telegraph 
offices;  the  establishing  an  efficient  post-office  system, 
with  Postal  Savings  Banks ; reform  in  the  civil  admin- 
istration, and  in  the  civil  and  penal  codes;  the  re-ar- 
rangement of  the  Land  Tax,  and  the  establishment  of 
a uniform  system  of  taxation  for  the  whole  Empire ; the 
establishment  of  custom-houses,  the  mint,  and  a Gov- 
ernment printing-office  ; the  issue  of  new  paper  money, 
and  a new  coinage ; the  establishment  of  a University, 
Medical  College,  and  Technical  University  (College  of 
Engineering) ; the  establishment  of  and  provision  for 
primary,  middle,  and  higher  schools  up  to  1876;  the 
colonisation  and  survey  of  Yezo ; the  introduction  of 
the  breeding  of  sheep,  and  improvements  in  the  breeds 
of  horses  and  cattle,  and  the  establishment  of  model 
farms,  tree-nurseries,  acclimatisation  gardens,  agricul- 
tural colleges,  industrial  colleges,  and  museums ; extra- 
ordinary embassies  to  Europe  and  America ; participation 
in  the  Exhibitions  of  Vienna,  Philadelphia,  and  Paris ; 
and  the  education  of  several  hundred  youths  in  Europe 
and  America,  etc.  etc. 

The  Finance  Minister,  far  from  accepting  the  dictum 
of  Lorenzo  von  Stein  (^LeJirhuch  der  Finanz-wifssenschaft').^ 
quoted  by  the  able  Councillor  to  the  Finance  Depart- 
ment, has  recently  devised  and  made  public  an  elab- 
orate scheme  for  the  liquidation  of  the  whole  debt  of 
Japan  by  1905,  without  either  increasing  taxation  or 
trenching  on  the  reserve  fund.  The  success  of  the  ar- 
rangement involves  a complete  absence  of  financially 
or  politically  disturbing  events ; but  though  J apanese 
paper  is  subject  to  very  severe  depreciation  as  com- 
pared with  gold,  and  the  rise  in  the  price  of  the  neces- 


FOREIGN  TRADE. 


351 


saries  of  life  is  a disquieting  symptom,  I think  that  we 
are  not  in  a position  to  say  that  Mr.  Okuma’s  project  is 
an  altogether  chimerical  one,  although  it  is  impossible 
to  agree  with  the  strongly  optimist  view  of  it  taken  by 
Mr.  May^t,  or  with  von  Stein’s  view  that  “ a state  with 
out  a national  debt  is  either  not  doing  enough  for  the 
future,  or  is  demanding  too  much  from  the  present.” 

The  foreign  commerce^  of  Japan  is  a subject  of  great 
practical  interest,  to  foreigners  because  it  forms  nearly 
their  sole  object  for  intercourse,  and  to  the  Japanese, 
because  they  depend  upon  it  for  the  development  of 
their  material  resources.  It  dates  from  the  abolition 
of  the  exclusive  system,  which  was  pursued  down  to 
1858.  Before  that  year  the  Japanese,  having  no  foreign 
market,  in  which  to  dispose  of  their  surplus  productions, 
were  without  one  of  the  principal  incentives  to  indus- 
try. They  grew  food,  or  manufactured  commodities  in 
quantities  sufficient  to  meet  their  own  wants ; the  har- 
vest of  the  year  constituted  the  material  wealth  of  the 
country,  and  the  store  of  national  capital  admitted  .of 
little  or  no  augmentation.  But  when  foreigners  came 
to  their  doors  and  offered  them  money  or  foreign  wares 
in  exchange  for  their  productions,  a potent  stimulus  to 
increased  exertion  was  afforded  them,  and  its  effect 
testifies  to  their  intelligence  and  industry. 

The  products  which  Japan  furnishes  to  other  coun- 
tries consist  of  raw  silk,  silkworms’  eggs,  tea,  rice,  cop- 
per, t')bacco,  camphor,  vegetable  wax,  dried  and  salted 
fish,  and  various  art  manufactures  in  silk,  metals,  and 
chinaware.  The  first  four  items  constitute  the  staple 

1 In  Appendix  D will  be  found  three  returns  compiled  at  the  British 
Legation,  Tokiyo,  which  furnish  in  a condensed  form  particulars  of  the 
import  and  export  trade  of  Japan  for  a period  of  thirteen  years;  also  a 
return  showing  the  large  amount  of  foreign  tonnage  which  that  trade 
employs,  and  a table  of  foreign  residents,  the  majority  of  whom  are 
engaged  in  mercantile  occupations. 


352 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


articles  of  export.  The  highest  value  which  these 
items  reached  in  any  one  year  was,  in  the  case  of  raw 
silk,  nearly  fifteen  millions  of  dollars  [£3,000,000  ster- 
ling], in  that  of  silkworms’  eggs  more  than  four  millions, 
in  that  of  tea  nearly  eight  millions,  and  in  that  of  rice 
upwards  of  four  and  a half  millions ; while  the  collec- 
tive value  of  the  other  exports  in  a single  year  has 
amounted  to  seven  millions.  The  extent  of  the  trans- 
actions in  these  commodities  varies  considerably  in  dif- 
ferent years,  but  the  average  value  of  the  total  export 
trade  of  Japan  for  the  three  years  1876-1878  was  twenty- 
five  millions  and  a half  of  dollars  [£5,100,000]. 

Japan  has  rendered  a most  material  service  to  the 
silk-growers  of  France  and  Italy  by  providing  them 
with  fresh  silk  ova,  when  their  own  supplies  were  nearly 
destroyed  by  the  disease  which  attained  its  height  in 
1864.  A more  striking  instance  of  international  com- 
mercial benefit  has  rarely  been  witnessed,  for  it  is  doubt- 
ful whether  a sufficient  supply  of  the  requisite  kind  of 
silkworms’  eggs  could  have  been  procured  from  any 
other  quarter,  and  the  emergency  arose  very  shortly 
after  the  opening  of  the  country. 

In  return  for  her  products  Japan  takes  from  Europe 
and  America,  cotton  yarn,  cotton  and  woollen  manu- 
factures of  all  kinds,  iron,  machinery,  kerosene  oil,  and 
many  minor  articles,  such  as  cutlery,  leather,  and  orna- 
mental wares;  while  from  China  she  receives  sugar,  and 
occasional  supplies  of  raw  cotton,  which  is  an  uncertain 
crop  in  Japan.  The  average  value  of  the  imported 
goods  for  the  three  years,  1876-1878,  was  twenty-eight 
millions  of  dollars  [£5,600,000].  Of  these  goods,  cot- 
ton and  woollen  manufactures  form  the  principal  items ; 
cottons  were  imported  in  1878  to  the  amount  of  nearly 
thirteen  millions  of  dollars,  but  woollens  have  fallen 
off  since  1872,  when  the  highest  importation  of  seven 


FOREIGN  TRADE. 


353 


r Jlions  and  a half  of  dollars  was  reached.  The  de- 
mand for  cotton  manufactures  appears  to  be  nearly  sta- 
tionary, while  that  for  cotton  yarn  [as  distinguished 
from  cotton  cloth]  is  steadily  increasing. 

The  latter  circumstance  may  be  regarded  as  a solid 
and  favourable  feature  of  the  trade.  Every  cottage  pos- 
sesses its  own  loom,  which  is  worked  by  the  women  of 
the  family,  who  can  produce  fabrics  which,  besides  being 
genuine,  are  stronger  and  better  suited  to  their  wants 
and  tastes  than  those  of  Manchester  make,  and  by  using 
a large  proportion  of  foreign  yarn,  which  can  be  sup- 
plied to  them  cheaper  than  they  can  spin  it  themselves, 
the  people  are  furnished  with  abundant  materials  for 
the  extension  of  their  own  manufactures,  and  are 
guarded  against  the  bad  consequences  of  a failure  of 
their  home  cotton  crop.  Thus  the  native  industry,  in- 
stead of  being  supplanted  by  that  of  the  foreigner, 
works  in  unison  with  it,  and  the  result  is  a large  in- 
crease in  the  national  production. 

Of  the  general  effect  of  the  opening  of  Japan  to 
foreign  trade  it  is  diflScult  to  judge,  as  we  must  weigh 
against  an  apparent  improvement  in  the  dwellings,  cloth- 
ing, and  feeding  of  the  people  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
its  principal  centres,  the  enhanced  price  of  the  necessa- 
ries of  life  throughout  the  country.  It  has  created  a 
Jiew  order  of  native  traders  and  merchants,  whose 
activity  may  be  noticed  in  many  of  the  large  towns; 
while  the  foreign  demand  for  Japanese  metal-work  and 
ceramic  wares,  fans,  fine  bamboo  work,  enamels,  and  the 
numerous  articles  known  by  the  name  of  “curios,”  has 
largely  benefited  the  skilled  artisans  of  the  country, 
and  has  opened  to  them  new  and  extensive  fields  of 
employment.  Thus  foreign  traffic  is  bringing  forward 
a middle  class,  which  may  be  looked  to  as  a means  of 
promoting  not  only  the  commercial  prosperity  of  the 
country,  but  also  its  political  wellbeing. 


351 


UNBEATEN  TBACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


Tbi.',  future  of  the  foreign  commerce  of  Japan  depends 
upon  the  increase  of  production.  Silk  growing,  next  to 
ordiniiiy  agriculture,  forms  her  principal  industry,  and 
the  Government  has  wisely  paid  great  attention  to  the 
improvement  of  the  quality  of  the  silk  which  is  pro- 
duced. It  has  also  shown  a laudable  desire  to  foster 
other  industries,  without  always  perceiving,  however, 
that  it  is  only  those  which  are  to  some  extent  natural  to 
the  country  which  can  profit  by  such  encouragement ; 
and.  like  other  young  and  paternal  governments,  it  has 
not  yet  realised  that  free  competition  is  essential  to  the 
growth  of  healthy  enterprise,  and  that  privileges  and 
monopolies  only  serve  to  impede  the  expansion  of  trade. 
Th(3  population  of  Japan  is  essentially  an  agricultural 
one,  and  it  is  certainly  a mistake  to  attempt  prema- 
turely to  convert  an  agricultural  people  into  a manufac- 
turing one. 

Undoubtedly,  it  is  to  the  development  of  her  very 
large  mineral  and  agricultural  resources  that  Japan 
must  look  for  her  advancement  in  wealth.  But  though 
capital  is  the  one  thing  needed  for  the  worldng  of  her 
mineral  treasures,  and  the  nation  has  very  little  of  its 
own,  the  Government  has  rigidly  excluded  the  introduc- 
tion of  foreign  capital,  and  the  result  of  this  and  other 
restrictive  measures  is  shown  in  the  limited  increase  in 
the  exports,  in  the  costly  character  of  internal  trans- 
port, owing  to  the  primitive  condition  of  the  roads,  and 
the  high  freights  of  the  Japanese  Steam-ship  Company, 
which  monopolises  the  coast  carrying  trade,  and  in  the 
slow  development  of  the  enormous  coal-fields,  the  mines, 
and  other  productive  enterprises,  which  cannot  be  under- 
taken without  considerable  outlay. 

Dense  population  ” and  “ garden  cultivation  ” are 
phrases  which  travellers  constantly  apply  to  Japan,  but 
the  highest  estimate  only  gives  230  inhabitants  to  the 


THE  RESOURCES  OF  JAPAN. 


355 


square  mile,  and  though  the  tillage  of  the  area  ac- 
tually occupied  deserves  the  highest  praise,  it  is  esti- 
mated by  the  Japanese  Government  that  only  two-tenths 
of  the  soil  is  actually  under  cultivation,  and  that  the 
forests  alone  greatly  exceed  the  area  under  culture  of 
all  kinds.  A new  trade  in  wheat  is  springing  up,  and 
the]*e  is  little  doubt  that  many  of  the  vast  upland  tracts 
wliich  are  now  lying  waste,  as  being  unsuited  for  the 
growth  of  rice,  might  be  profitably  utilised  for  wheat 
and  other  cereals.  The  island  of  Yezo,  with  a rich  soil, 
and  an  area  larger  than  Ireland,  has  hardly  yet  been 
touched  by  the  plough,  and  between  her  adaptability  to 
the  growth  of  wheat,  and  her  immense  coal-fields,  is  a 
mine  of  future  wealth.  On  the  whole,  there  is  no  doubt 
that  it  is  mainly  to  her  undeveloped  agricultural  re- 
sources that  Japan  must  look  for  increased  exports  and 
greater  commercial  prosperity,  but  there  is  nothing  to 
lead  us  to  suppose  that  she  will  soon  become  a wealthy 
nation. 

This  brief  review  of  some  of  the  most  important 
elements  of  the  progress  of  the  Japanese  Empire  neces- 
sarily omits  much  which,  as  stated  in  the  reports  of  the 
heads  of  departments  of  the  Japanese  Government,  is 
fitted  to  excite  both  surprise  and  admiration.  I have 
endeavoured  to  avoid  indiscriminate  laudation  on  the 
one  side,  and  unreasonable  blame  on  the  other.  Japan 
has  done  much ; but  though  she  has  done  many  things 
well  and  wisely,  much  is  still  undone.  Some  reforms 
of  importance  have  been  left  untouched,  and  others 
have  been  undertaken  so  superficially,  that,  wliile  cer- 
tain places  present  a fair  outside,  little  improvement,  on 
the  whole,  in  those  special  directions,  has  been  effected. 
Reform,  not  only  in  the  laws,  but  in  the  administration 
of  them,  is  urgently  required.  The  army  needs  better 
discipline  and  better  officers,  if  it  is  to  be  a source  of 


356 


'JNB EATEN  TRACKS  IN  JAPAN. 


strength,  and  not  of  weakness,  to  the  State.  The  Press 
laws  need  a thorough  reform,  and  the  obnoxious  restric- 
tions on  political  meetings  and  societies  which  came  into 
force  on  April  6, 1880,  need  to  be  rescinded  as  arbitrary 
and  unworthy  of  the  age.  According  to  the  Japanese 
newspapers,  “the  whole  population  of  the  country  is 
actuated  by  one  burning  desire  for  representative  insti- 
tutions, and  the  longing  for  constitutional  liberty  has 
pervaded  all  classes,”  and  this  demand  must  be  wisely 
met  in  fulfilment  of  the  pledges  given  by  the  Govern- 
ment of  the  Pestoration ; while,  at  the  same  time,  the 
heimin^  or  commonalty,  numbering  thirty  millions.,  must 
be  trained  to  the  exercise  of  political  responsibilities. 
An  improved  system  of  roads  needs  to  be  created  if 
the  resources  of  the  country  are  to  be  developed  into 
bearing  the  strain  of  taxation  without  undue  pressure 
on  the  cultivator.  Three  millions  of  cliildren  of  school 
age  require  to  be  brought  under  instruction,  and  the 
standard  of  teaching  to  be  raised  throughout  all  the  ele- 
mentary schools.  Thoroughness  has  to  be  studied  in  all 
departments,  and  perseverance  to  be  steadily  required 
from  all  subordinate  officials. 

The  carrying  out  of  the  reforms  which  have  been 
already  begun,  the  placing  them  upon  a solid  basis,  the 
judicious  inauguration  of  new  ones,  the  wise  selection 
of  such  further  fruits  of  western  civilisation  as  may  bear 
transplantation  to  Japanese  soil,  the  courageous  aban- 
donment of  experiments  which  have  failed  from  their 
inherent  unsuitability  to  Japan,  the  resolute  pursuit  of 
a pacific  foreign  policy,  the  exercise  of  a wise  discrun* 
ination  between  true  and  false  progress,  and  the  perse- 
vering conservation  of  all  that  the  Empire  has  actually 
gained  during  the  last  ten  years,  are  sufficient  to  tax  the 
energy  and  sagacity  of  the  best  and  ablest  men  in 
Japan  for  many  years  to  come.  The  extraordinary 


CONCLUSION. 


357 


progress  which  the  Empire  has  made  justly  claims  our 
admiration,  and,  judging  from  the  character  of  the  men 
who  take  the  lead  in  public  affairs,  and  from  the  wis- 
dom and  sobriety  which  they  have  gained  by  ten  years 
of  experience,  we  may  reasonably  hope  for  the  consoli- 
dation of  reforms  already  inaugurated,  and  that  those 
which  are  to  come  will  be  faithfully  carried  out  with 
due  regard  for  the  interests  of  all  classes,  and  with  the 
honesty  and  solidity  which  alone  can  ensure  permanent 
success. 

Of  the  shadows  which  hang  upon  the  horizon  of 
Japan,  the  darkest,  to  my  thinking,  arises  from  the  fact 
that  she  is  making  the  attempt,  for  the  first  time  in 
history,  to  secure  the  fruits  of  Christianity  without 
transplanting ’the  tree  from  which  they  spring.  The 
nation  is  sunk  in  immorality,  the  millstone  of  Oriental- 
ism hangs  round  her  neck  in  the  race  on  which  she 
has  started,  and  her  progress  is  political  and  intellectual 
rather  than  moral ; in  other  words,  as  regards  the  high- 
est destiny  of  man,  individually  or  collectively,  it  is  at 
present  a failure.  The  great  hope  for  her  is  that  she 
may  grasp  the  truth  and  purity  of  primitive  Christian- 
ity, as  taught  by  the  lips  and  life  of  our  Lord  Jesus 
Christ,  as  resolutely  as  she  has  grasped  our  arts  and 
sciences;  and  that,  in  the  reception  of  Christianity, 
with  its  true  principles  of  manliness  and  national  great- 
ness, she  may  become,  in  the  highest  sense,  “ The  Land 
of  the  Rising  Sun  ” and  the  light  of  Eastern  Asia. 


APPENDIX  A. 


Amo  WORDS  TAKEN  DOWN  AT  BIRATORT  AND  U8U, 

YEZO. 


Above,  Jcaschke,  rekita. 
Afternoon,  to-keishi,  takes* 

Again,  ishu  kanna. 

All,  ohitta. 

Already,  tane. 

And,  ka. 

Angry,  yarushika. 

Arm,  amonine. 

Arrow,  eye. 

Bad,  ipocasch. 

Bark,  yara. 

Bear,  hokuyak,  perl. 

Beard,  ticksa,  reki. 

Before,  noschki. 

Below,  ranta. 

Beyond,  aya. 

Bird,  tskap. 

Blue,  matek. 

Boat,  chip. 

Bone,  ponL 
Bow,  ku. 

Boy  [small],  cuspo. 

Bright,  bekeri. 

Brother[elder],Kam'-yMru.^M/m&o. 

“ [younger],  kiaki-ni-yuru. 
Brown,  una. 

Broad,  bira. 

Business,  ukosarange. 

Child  [male],  sikatch. 

“ [female],  makatch. 


Child  [my],  kuboho. 

“ [your],  ihoho. 

Cloud,  nitchkurUf  nischi,  kuroro* 
Coat,  amip. 

Cold,  mi-une. 

“ [it  is],  meiragi. 

“ [very],  meiupki. 

Coming  down,  shan. 

Corpse,  rai  guru. 

Crippled,  takushuto. 

Dance,  ontori. 

Day,  to. 

“ [afterto-morrow],  oya-tschiun. 
“ [before  yesterday],  hosckenu- 
mani. 

“ [this],  tanto. 

Dawn,  ankes. 

Dead,  rai. 

Deep,  oho. 

Dew,  kuruppl^  kuru-uppi. 
Dishonourable,  nanUj  ischamu 
(lit.  without  sight ). 

Dog,  set-ta. 

Ear,  kisara. 

Earth,  tschiri,  tui. 

Eclipse, f5cAil/)p-rai(the  sun  dies). 
Elbow,  hiloki. 

End,  itoki. 

Evening,  schiri-kunne  (the  earth 
is  black). 


369 


360 


APPENDIX, 


Every,  keshi. 

Eye,  shki. 

Eyebrow,  ranwnn. 

Face,  namihu. 

F ar  off,  torima. 

Father,  atspo.  hambi.  tnitch. 
Female,  matni. 

Fierce,  ninren. 

Finger,  askibits.  embi. 

Fire,  abe. 

Fish,  isep.  chi-ep. 

“ [smoked], 

Flea,  taiki. 

Flower,  ebni. 

F ormerly,  fusiko. 

Fox,  turepp. 

From,  kara. 

Ghost,  kamoi-yashi. 

God,  kamoi. 

Go-down,  pU, 

Good,  pirika. 

Good-bye,  saramba. 

Grandfather,  ikasi. 

Grass,  kina. 

Green,  shin-nin. 

Guest,  marubuto. 

Hair,  noma.  atOpp. 

Hairy,  noma-us. 

Hand,  teke,  take. 

Hateful,  kopande. 

Haughty,  uku-ain(hburi-kuru  (to 
take  the  form  of  an  Aino.) 
Hat,  tshesek.  sesik. 

Head,  saba.  chapu. 

Heart,  tscliambi. 

Heavy,  pashi. 

High,  kuweri. 

Hill,  ken. 


House,  tscJiesai.  rikop. 

“ [my],  ^M-<sc^6sai. 

Husband,  tscJiesaikoru.  kuru 
[your],  ihoku. 

“ [my],  kulioku. 

“ [without],  hoku-tscJiaku. 

I,  tslioki. 

Ice,  konru. 

Infant,  bo. 

Insect,  kikiri. 

Kind,  yie-yie-kiri. 

Lake,  tan. 

Large,  poro. 

Lie,  shunge. 

Little,  obari. 

Living,  shiinu. 

Long,  tanne. 

!Male,  binne. 

Man,  okkai.  hoku.  guru.  aino. 

“ [old],  onnL 
“ [that],  tanguru. 

“ [this],  to-anguru. 

“ [single],  okkai-po. 

Master  [of  a hut],  kayatono. 

Mat,  tsarubi. 

Men,  okkai-po-po. 

Midday,  to-gap.  tO-noscbke. 
Middle,  nosclikL 
INIidnight,  an-noscTike. 

Millet,  ie-sa-mam. 

Moon,  antsikara.  tscMpp-hinni 
(night  sun). 

Mother,  7iabo. 

Mountain,  nobori. 

“ [top],  tschiri-kUai. 
Mouth,  parof. 


APPENDIX. 


361 


Oar,  kaiji. 

Old,  hekai. 

Owl,  kamoi-tsikapp  (bird  of  the 
gods). 

People,  kuru. 

Poison,  tschuruku. 

Promontory,  itu. 

Rain,  apto.  went. 

Red,  kurL 
River,  hets. 

Road,  ru. 

Robber,  roku~guru  (a  robbing 
man). 

Roof,  cada.  tschisai-katai. 

Root,  shinrichi. 

Salt,  tschipo. 

Sea,  atui,  adoi. 

Shoulder,  iapsau. 

Short,  takne. 

Singing  praises  or  chants,  yairapp. 
Sister  [elder],  Psabo. 

“ [younger],  matakc,  ma-cJii- 
ribi,  turesch. 

Skin  of  beast,  no-ma. 

Sky,  cando. 

Small,  ponL 
Smell, /ura. 

Smoke,  shupuya. 

Snake,  tnkoni. 

“ [black],  paskiiro-kamoi. 
(raven  god). 

Snow,  ubashi. 

Spring,  paikaru.  paika. 

Song,  ma. 

“ [for  several  voices],  o-ma. 
Stars,  notchiu. 

Storm,  poro-reira  (lit.  a great 
wind). 


Straw,  wattesu. 

Suddenly,  nischopp. 

Summer,  tschaku. 

“ [end  of],  tschaku-kes. 
Sun,  tscJiupp. 

Sunset,  hiri-kunne. 

Sustenance,  aino-ikiri. 

Sweet,  pan. 

Teeth,  memoki. 

Temple,  kamoi-tschisai. 

That,  tan.  , 

This,  tambi,  tanni. 

Thing,  ambi. 

“ [living],  shitnu-ambi.  * 
“ [dead],  rai-no-ambi. 

“ [spread  on  floor],  ishoka- 
ramhi. 

Throat,  letclii. 

Thunder,  kamoi-fumi. 

Time  [a  long],  ohono. 

“ [short],  ^onno. 

To-day,  tando. 

Together,  tora. 

To-morrow,  ururu.  nischatta. 
Tongue,  parumbe. 

Tom,  perike. 

Ugly,  kal-guru-korats  (like  a 
corpse). 

Under,  shiragata. 

Valley,  nai.  metu. 

Very,  sliiri. 

Village,  kotan. 

Wall,  tomamu. 

War,  sara-kamai. 

Water,  waka. 

“ [hot],  oshai.  usai. 

“ [salt],  ruru-waka. 


362 


APPENDIX. 


Weather,  sliukus. 

Which,  niwa. 

White,  ritara.  tsaru. 

Wife,  matchi. 

Wind,  tera. 

Window,  puyara. 

Winter,  7nata. 

With  difficulty,  rai-korats  (like 
dying). 

Within,  oshipe. 

Without,  tschamu. 

Wolf,  holaikii.  ushi-kamoi  (the 
howling  god). 


To  ascend,  rikin. 

“ bathe,  sJiusJii. 

“ be  angry,  ruschke. 

“ be  in  pain,  yunin. 

“ blow,  rui. 

“ bury,  iwaktL 
“ catch,  koyeki. 

“ die,  ri-orkai. 

“ drink,  iku. 

“ eat,  ebL 
“ fight,  uraiki. 

“ forget,  oira. 

“ get  angry,  ainchsesek  (glow 
like  an  Aino). 

“ get  cold,  meandi. 

“ get  better,  toOsa. 

“ get  up,  aschkai. 

“ give,  kore. 

‘f  go  up  a river,  petorascTi. 

“ go  up  a mountain,  hinnaisho. 


Woman,  menoko. 

“ [old],  pakko. 

Wood,  nitcJikuni. 

Wrist,  dekutasch. 

Year,  ba. 

“ [next],  oya  ba. 

“ [this],  tan  ba. 

Yesterday,  numani.  numanchi 
You,  yani. 

Young,  pe  ure.  hekatsu. 


To  hear,  nw. 

“ kill,  raigi. 

“ like,  yeramasch. 

“ live,  hitoku. 

“ make,  karu. 

“ pound,  uta. 

“ return,  osTiipi. 

“ root  up,  risTiipi. 

“ rub,  fshirishirti. 

“ run,  hoyupp. 

“ run  away,  kira. 

“ scratch,  hiki. 

“ see,  nukara. 

“ seize,  kora. 

“ sing,  sakeJian. 

“ sing  praises,  i-uko-yairapp.. 
“ speak,  itaku. 

“ spring,  ter  ike. 

“ tell  lies,  iko-shiunnke. 

“ touch,  moi-moi. 


NUMERALS. 


1.  scJinape. 

2.  tupaisch. 
lepaisch. 


4.  mej9e. 

5.  aschkei. 

6.  M-an. 


APPENDIX. 


363 


7.  aruan. 

8.  topaishi. 

9.  schnapaishi. 

10.  wamhi. 

11.  sclinape  icashima  wamhi. 

12.  tupaisch  icashima  wamhi. 

Aud  so  on  up  to  twenty. 

20,  hots. 

21.  schnape  icashima  hots. 

And  so  on  up  to  thirty. 


30.  ito  hots. 

31.  schnape  icashima  itohots^eic. 

40.  tu  hots. 

41.  schnape  icashima  tu  hots,  etc. 
50.  ele  hots,  etc. 

60.  le  hots,  etc. 

70.  wamhi  icashima  ine  hots,  etc. 
80.  ine  hots,  etc. 

90.  luamhi  aschkine  hots,  etc. 

100.  aschkine  hots  or  sneyik. 

In  pronouncing 
The  sound  rep- 


The  foregoing  words  are  spelt  phonetically, 
them  the  vowels  must  be  sounded  as  in  English, 
resented  by  the  letters  tsch  is  a very  peculiar  click. 


APPENDIX  B. 

NOTES  ON  SHINTO. 

Scholars  hesitate  to  decide  whether  Shinto  is  or  is  not  “a 
genuine  product  of  Japanese  ■ soil.”  The  Japanese  call  their 
ancient  religion  kami  no  michi  (the  way  of  the  gods)  ; foreigners 
adopt  the  Chinese  form  of  the  same,  and  call  it  Shinto.  By 
Shinto  is  meant  the  primitive  religion  which  was  found  spread 
over  Japan  when  the  Buddhist  propagandists  arrived  in  the  sixth 
century,  and  which,  at  the  restoration  of  the  Mikado  to  full  tempo- 
ral power,  in  1808,  became  once  more  the  “ State  religion.”  By 
“ Pure  Shinto  ” is  meant  the  ancient  faith  as  distinguished  from 
that  mixture  of  it  with  Buddhism  and  Confucianism  which  is 
known  as  RiyOhu  Shinto,  and  it  is  of  pure  Shinto  that  I present 
my  readers  with  a few  notes,  in  order,  if  possible,  to  make  the 
religious  allusions  in  the  foregoing  letters  interesting  and  intelli- 
gible.^ 

Japanese  cosmogony  and  mythology  are  one,  and  in  both  Japan 
is  the  Universe.  There  are  three  confused  mythical  periods,  dur- 

1 For  a sketch  of  the  History  of  Shintd  and  its  Revival,  the  reader  is  referred  to 
several  papers  of  profound  research  in  the  Transactions  of  the  English  Asiatic  Society 
of  Japan  for  1874,  called  “ The  Revival  of  Pure  Shinto,”  by  Mr.  Ernest  Satow,  Japan- 
ese Secretary  to  II.  B.  M.*s  Legation  at  Yedo ; to  an  article  on  “ The  Mythology  and 
Religious  Worship  of  the  Ancient  Japanese,”  by  the  same  learned  writer,  in  the 
Westminster  Review  for  June  1878;  and  to  a paper  called  “ Shintoism,”  by  Mr.  Kcm 
perman,  in  the  Transactions  of  the  German  Asiatic  Society  of  Japan  for  1878. 


364 


APPENDIX. 


ing  which  the  islands  of  Japan  and  many  gods  were  called  into 
being.  The  third  of  these  begins  with  the  supremacy  of  Amate- 
rasu,  the  Sun- Goddess,  the  great  divinity  of  the  Shinto  religion. 
This  “ heaven-lighting  ” divinity,  finding  that  Japan  was  disturbed 
by  the  unending  feuds  of  the  earthly  gods,  among  whom  Okuni- 
nushi,  their  ruler,  could  not  keep  order,  despatched  Ninigi-no- 
Mikoto,  a heavenly  god,  to  Higa  in  Kiushiu,  and  compelled  Okun- 
inushi  to  resign  his  disorderly  rule  into  his  hands.  Since  then 
Okuninushi  has  ruled  over  the  invisible,  and  Ninigi  and  his  suc- 
cessors, the  Mikados,  over  the  visible.  The  gods  and  their  off- 
spring did  not,  however,  always  submit  quietly  to  the  new  author- 
ity, and  there  were  evident  struggles  for  supremacy  between  the 
earthly  and  heavenly  powers,  which  were  finally  brought  to  an  end 
in  6G0  B.c.  by  Jimmu  Tenno,  the  fifth  in  descent  from  the  Sun- 
Goddess,  who  overthrew  the  Kiushiu  rebels,  and  passing  over  into 
the  main  island,  subjugated  a large  portion  of  it,  and  settled  there 
with  his  warriors. 

Whatever  the  actual  facts  may  be,  this  event  is  the  dawn  of 
Japanese  history,  and  the  starting-point  of  Japanese  chronology. 
The  7th  of  April  is  fixed  as  the  anniversary  of  Jimmu  Tenno’s 
ascension  to  the  throne ; he  is  deified  and  worshipped  in  a thou- 
sand shrines,  and  from  him  the  present  Mikado  claims  direct 
descent.  The  dogma  of  “ the  divine  right  of  kings  ” in  his  case 
means  nothing  less  than  that  he  is  descended  from  the  great  Sun- 
Goddess  through  seven  generations  of  celestial,  five  of  terrestrial 
gods,  and  122  divine  Mikados,  who  have  preceded  him ; and  the  three 
divine  insignia  of  power  — the  mirror,  the  sword,  and  the  stone  — 
have  descended  to  him  directly  from  his  ancestress,  whose  gifts 
they  were. 

According  to  Hirata,  a Shinto  revivalist  who  wrote  early  in 
this  century,  and  from  whose  writings  Mr.  Satow  has  made  many 
translations,  “ to  compel  obedience  from  human  beings,  and  to  love 
them,  was  all  the  sovereign  had  to  do,  and  there  was  no  necessity 
for  teaching  them  vain  doctrines,  such  as  are  preached  in  other 
countries.  Hence  the  art  of  government  is  called  Malsurigoto, 
which  literally  means  ‘ worshipping.’  Accordingly,  the  early 
sovereigns  worshipped  the  gods  in  person,  and  prayed  that  their 
people  might  enjoy  a sufficiency  of  food,  clothing,  and  shelter  from 
the  elements,  and  twice  a year,  in  the  sixth  and  twelfth  months, 
they  celebrated  the  festival  of  the  ‘ General  Purification  ’ ” [ob- 
served to  the  present  day]  “ by  which  the  whole  nation  was  purged 


APPENDIX. 


865 


of  calamities,  offences,  and  pollutions.”  In  the  beginning  of  the 
thirteenth  century  the  reigning  Mikado  interpreted  the  directions 
of  his  divine  ancestors  by  ordering  that  “even  in  the  slightest 
matters  ” [certain  most  holy  things]  “ are  not  to  be  placed  after 
the  Emperor.”  “ As  it  is  the  duty  of  subjects  to  imitate  the  prac- 
tice of  the  incarnate  god  who  is  their  sovereign,  the  necessity  of 
worshipping  his  ancestors  and  the  gods  from  whom  they  spring  is  to 
be  enjoined  upon  every  man.”  As  to  these  gods,  it  was  declared, 
on  their  own  authority,  that  “ The  gods  who  do  harm  are  to  be 
appeased,  so  that  they  may  not  punish  those  who  have  offended 
them ; and  all  the  gods  are  to  be  worshipped,  so  that  they  may  be 
induced  to  increase  their  favours.” 

Thus  the  Shinto  religion  is  closely  interwoven  with  the  theory 
of  government.  The  Mikado’s  throne  is  founded  on  a religious 
fiction.  He  is  the  lineal  descendant  of  the  gods,  nay,  he  is  him- 
self a god,  and  in  virtue  of  his  godhead,  his  palace  is  a temple 
His  heavenly  origin  has  been,  through  all  historic  days,  the  foun 
dation  of  Japanese  government,  and  it  and  the  duty  of  obeying 
his  commands  without  questioning,  whether  they  are  right  or 
wrong,  are  the  highest  of  Shinto  dogmas. 

From  the  death  of  Jimmu  Tenno,  the  first  Mikado,  to  the  intro- 
duction of  Buddhism,  is  a period  (according  to  the  unreliable 
Japanese  chronology)  of  1236  years.  Between  97  and  30  b.c., 
Sujin,  the  reigning  Mikado,  and  of  course  a demi-god,  appeared 
as  a reformer,  called  on  the  people  to  turn  their  minds  to  the  w^or- 
ship  of  the  gods,  performed  a symbolic  purification,  built  special 
shrines  for  the  worship  of  several  of  the  kami  or  gods,  removed 
the  mirror,  sword,  and  stone  from  the  palace  where  they  had 
hitherto  been  kept  to  a shrine  built  for  their  custody,  and  appointed 
his  daughter  their  priestess.  This  mirror  rested,  at  least  till  1871, 
in  the  shrines  of  Ise,  of  which  a description  is  given  near  the  end 
of  this  volume. 

In  the  middle  of  the  sixth  century,  as  is  supposed,  Buddhist 
missionaries  arrived  from  Korea,  and  proselytised  so  successfully 
in  high  quarters  that  a decree  was  issued  about  the  middle  of  the 
eighth  century,  ordering  the  erection  of  two  Buddhist  temples  and 
a seven-storied  pagoda  in  every  province.  The  long  and  complete 
supremacy  of  Buddhism  is  due,  however,  to  a master-stroke  of 
religious  policy  achieved  by  a priest,  best  known  under  his  posthu- 
mous name  of  Kobo-daishi,  in  the  ninth  century,  who,  in  order  to 
gain  and  retain  a hold  for  his  creed  over  the  mass  of  the  people, 


366 


APPENDIX. 


taught  that  the  Shint6  gods  were  but  Japanese  manifestations  of 
Buddha,  a dogma  which  reconciled  the  foreign  with  the  native- 
religion,  and  gave  Buddhism  several  centuries  of  ascendency  over 
both  Shinto  and  Confucianism,  till  it  was  supplanted,  about  two 
hundred  years  ago,  in  the  intellects  of  the  educated,  by  the  Chinese 
philosophical  system  of  Choo  He,  which  in  its  turn  is  being  dis- 
placed by  what  is  known  in  Japan  as  the  “ English  Philosophy,” 
represented  by  Mill,  Herbert  Spencer,  and  others.  At  the  Restora- 
tion of  the  Mikado  to  temporal  power,  in  1868,  Shinto  was  rein- 
stated as  the  State  religion,  owing  to  its  value  as  a political  engine, 
but  it  was  impossible  to  re-introduce  its  long  abandoned  usages 
alongside  of  Western  civilisation,  and  the  number  of  those  who 
honour  the  old  faith  in  its  purity  is  believed  to  be  very  small. 

The  Buddhaising  the  old  gods,  and  incorporating  the  ancient 
traditions  of  the  divine  ancestors  and  early  heroes  of  the  Japan- 
ese with  the  ethical  code  and  doctrinal  dogmas  of  Buddhism,  pro- 
duced a harmony  or  jumble  upon  which  the  reigning  Mikado, 
pleased  with  the  fusion,  bestowed  the  name  of  Riyobu  Shinto,  or 
“twofold  religious  doctrine.”  From  that  time  Shinto  and  Buddh- 
ist priests  frequently  celebrated  their  ceremonies  in  the  same 
temples,  the  distinctive  feature  of  Shinto,  the  absence  of  idols, 
effigies,  and  other  visible  objects  of  worship,  disappeared,  and  the 
temples  were  crowded  with  wooden  images  of  the  old  Shinto 
divinities,  alongside  of  those  of  Buddha  and  his , disciples,  only  a 
very  few  temples  in  a very  few  districts  retaining  the  simplicity 
of  the  ancient  faith.  Since  1868  the  images,  and  all  the  gaudy 
and  sensuous  paraphernalia  of  Buddhism,  have  been  swept  out  of 
a large  number  of  the  temples,  but  the  splendour  of  the  buildings 
still  remains,  as  at  Shiba  in  Yedo,  and  the  plain  wooden  structure, 
with  the  thatched  tent-roof  and  the  perfectly  bare  interior,  is  only 
seen  in  its  primitive  simplicity  in  the  “ Shrines  of  Ise  ” and  a feu; 
other  places.  In  the  eighteenth  century  an  attempt  was  made  by 
certain  scholarly  and  able  men  to  revive  “pure  Shinto,”  and  adapt 
it  to  those  cravings  of  humanity  which  Buddhism  had  partially 
met ; but  the  attempt  failed,  and  has  resulted  mainly  in  affording 
materials  for  the  researches  of  Mr.  Satow  and  other  foreign 
scholars. 

The  characteristics  of  “Pure  Shinto”  are  the  absence  of  an 
ethical  and  doctrinal  code,  of  idol- worship,  of  priestcraft,  and  of 
any  teachings  concerning  a future  state,  and  the  deification  of 
heroes,  emperors,  and  great  men,  together  with  the  worship  of  cer- 


APPENDIX. 


367 


tain  forces  and  objects  in  nature.  It  is  said  that  the  kami  or  gods 
number  14,000,  of  -whom  3700  are  known  to  have  shrines  ; but, 
practically,  the  number  is  infinite,  or  “eight  millions.”  Each 
hamlet  has  its  special  god,  as  well  as  each  miya  or  shrine ; and 
each  child  is  taken  to  the  shrine  of  the  district  in  which  it  is  born, 
a month  after  birth,  and  the  god  of  that  shrine  becomes  his  patron. 
Each  god  has  his  annual  festival,  while  many  have  particular  days 
in  each  month  on  which  people  visit  their  shrines. 

The  temples  are  of  unpainted  wood,  and  the  tent-like  roofs  are 
thickly  thatched.  They  are  destitute  of  idols,  effigies,  images, 
ornaments,  and  ecclesiastical  paraphernalia  of  any  kind.  In  the 
bare  shrines  of  this  truly  barren  creed  the  only  objects  are  a circu- 
lar steel  mirror,  the  gohei,  small  offerings  of  sake,  rice,  and  other 
vegetable  food,  on  unlacquered  wooden  trays,  and  some  sprigs  of 
the  evergreen  Cleyera  japonica.  The  mirror  is  a copy  of  the  one 
given  by  the  Sun- Goddess,  as  an  emblem  of  herself,  to  Ninigi, 
when  she  sent  him  down  to  govern  the  world ; but  even  this  is 
only  exposed  to  view  in  temples  in  which  Shinto  has  been  at 
some  time  jumbled  up  with  Buddhism.  A plain  gohei  is  a slim 
wand  of  unpainted  wood,  with  two  long  pieces  of  paper,  notched* 
alternately  on  opposite  sides,  hanging  from  it.  In  some  shrines 
which  were  long  in  Buddhist  hands,  such  as  that  of  ]^eyasu  at 
Nikko,  gilded  metal  takes  the  place  of  paper.  The  gohei  represent 
offerings  of  rough  and  white  cloth,  which  were  supposed  to  have 
the  effect  of  attracting  the  god  to  the  spot  where  they  were 
offered,  but  gradually  came  to  be  considered  as  the  gods  them- 
selves. In  idea  they  resemble  the  white  wands,  with  dependent 
shavings,  which  are  worshipped  by  the  Ainos  of  Yezo.  In  the 
pure  Shinto  temples,  which  do  not  even  display  the  mirror,  there 
is  a kind  of  receptacle  concealed  behind  the  closed  doors  of  the 
actual  shrine,  which  contains  a case  only  exposed  to  view  on 
the  day  of  the  annual  festival,  and  which  is  said  to  contain  the 
spirit  of  the  deity  to  whom  the  temple  is  dedicated,  the  “ august 
spirit  substitute,”  or  “ God’s  seed.” 

The  prominent  Shinto  emblem  of  purely  Japanese  origin,  the 
torii,  stands  at  the  entrance  of  temple  grounds,  in  front  of  shrines 
and  sacred  trees,  and  in  every  place  specially  associated  with  the 
native  kami.  In  some  places,  as  at  the  great  Inari  or  Fox  temple 
at  Fushima,  near  Kiyoto,  there  are  avenues  composed  of  several 
hundred  of  these,  and,  whether  large  or  small,  the  torii  is  a favour- 
ite subject  for  an  ex  voto.  In  the  latter  case  it  is  frequently  of 


368 


APPENBIX: 


stone.  The  torii  proper  consists  of  two  tree-trunks,  planted  in  the 
ground,  on  the  top  of  which  rests  another  tree  with  projecting 
ends,  and  a horizontal  beam  below.  The  name  means  “ bird’s 
rest,”  for  on  it  the  fouls  offered  but  not  sacrificed,  to  the  gods  were 
accustomed  to  perch.  It  is  of  unpainted  wood,  properly,  but  large 
numbers  are  painted  bright  red.  The  Buddhists  have  curved  the 
upper  timber  and  have  added  other  ornaments.  In  the  persecution 
waged  against  the  Romish  Christians  of  Nagasaki  a few  years  ago, 
the  token  of  recantation  required  was  that  they  should  pass  under 
this  Shinto  emblem. 

The  remaining  Shinto  emblem  is  a rope  of  rice  straw,  varying 
in  thickness  from  the  heavy  cable  which  often  hangs  across  a torii 
or  temple  entrance,  to  the  rope  no  thicker  than  a finger  which 
hangs  across  house  doors,  or  surrounds  sacred  trees,  and  which  has 
straw  tassels  or  strips  of  white  paper  dangling  from  it. 

There  are  about  98,000  Shinto  temples  in  Japan,  but  this  num- 
ber includes  all  the  wayside  shrines  and  the  shrines  in  the  groves, 
which  are  about  five  feet  high.  There  are  about  20,000  Shinto 
officials,  including  the  whole  of  the  kannusTii  or  “shrine  keepers,” 
and  these  may  all  be  described  as  officials  of  the  Government. 
Their  duties  are  few.  They  are  allowed  to  marry,  and  do  not 
shave  thejr  heads.  There  is  an  appropriation  of  about  £44,000 
annually  for  Shinto  shrines,  and  of  £14,000  for  Public  Worship. 
In  the  old  order  the  Department  which  dealt  with  the  affairs  of 
the  earthly  and  heavenly  gods  held  the  highest  place  in  the  order 
of  official  precedence ; but  so  out  of  harmony  was  it  with  the  new 
regime,  that  within  four  years  of  its  re-establishment  it  descended 
from  a dignity  superior  to  that  of  the  Council  of  State  into  a de- 
partment subordinate  thereto.  Within  a year  the  department  for 
administering  the  affairs  of  the  celestial  and  terrestrial  gods  sank 
into  being  a Board  of  Religious  Instruction,  and  early  in  1877 
underwent  the  further  humiliation  of  being  quietly  transferred  to 
a sub-department  of  the  Ministry  of  the  Interior.  Thus,  in  less 
than  ten  years,  the  oldest  and  most  solemn  institution  in  the  State 
has  passed  out  of  existence,  and  it  is  difficult  to  understand  how 
the  dogma  of  the  divine  origin  and  relationships  of  the  Mikado, 
and  the  identification  of  politics  with  religion,  survive  the  change. 

The  claims  of  Shinto  to  be  regarded  as  a religion  are  very  few. 
It  has  no  worship,  properly  so  called,  and  no  sacrifices,  no  hell  or 
purgatory  for  bad  men,  and  the  immortality  of  the  soul  is  only  as- 
sumed from  the  immortality  of  the  gods.  It  inculcates  reverence 


APPENDIX, 


8G9 


for  ancestors,  and  imitation  of  their  worthy  deeds ; but  its  chief 
feature  is  its  recognition  of  certain  ceremonial  defilements  and 
forms  of  purification. 

On  certain  occasions  the  priests  assemble  in  the  larger  temples 
and  chant  certain  words  to  an  excruciating  musical  accompani- 
ment ; but  this  is  in  no  sense  what  we  understand  by  public  wor- 
ship, and  the  worshippers  are  seldom  admitted  within  Shinto 
temples.  The  gods  are  supposed  to  be  present  in  the  temples  dedi- 
cated to  them,  and  a worshipper  attracts  their  attention  by  pulling 
the  cord  of  a metal  globe,  half  bell,  half  rattle,  which  hangs  at 
the  open  entrance.  There  are  specified  forms  of  prayer,  but  wor- 
ship usually  consists  merely  in  clapping  the  hands  twice,  and  mak- 
ing one  or  more  genuflexions ; and  persons  undertake  pilgrimages 
of  several  hundred  miles  to  do  no  more  than  this,  with  the  addition 
of  casting  a few  copper  coins  on  the  temple  floor,  and  buying  a 
charm  or  relic. 

The  festival  days  of  the  gods  of  the  larger  temples  are  cele- 
brated by  music,  dancing,  and  processions,  in  which  highly  deco- 
rated cars  take  part,  on  and  in  which  are  borne  certain  sacred 
emblems,  usually  kept  in  the  storehouses  of  the  temples.  On 
these  occasions  ancient  classical  dances  or  posturings  are  given  on 
covered  platforms  within  the  temple  grounds,  and  in  these  a 
maiden  appears,  dressed  in  white  and  bearing  a goliei  in  her  hand, 
who  is  popularly  called  a priestess.  The  history  and  meaning  of 
nearly  all  the  ceremonies  are  unknown  to  the  modern  Japanese. 

Certain  ceremonies  are  usually  attended  to  even  by  the  most 
careless.  In  nearly  all  Japanese  houses  there  is  a kami-dana  or 
god-shelf,  on  which  is  a miniature  temple  in  wood,  which  contains 
tablets  covered  with  paper,  on  which  are  written  the  names  of  the 
gods  in  which  the  household  place  their  trust,  and  monumental 
tablets  with  the  posthumous  names  of  the  ancestors  and  deceased 
members  of  the  family.  Fresh  flowers,  and  specially  the  leafy 
twigs  of  the  Cleyera  japonica,  are  offered  there,  together  with  sake^ 
water,  and  the  first  portion  of  the  rice  boiled  for  the  food  of  the 
household.  At  night  a lamp  is  lit  in  front  of  the  shrine,  as  on 
the  god-shelf  of  the  Buddhists,  and  the  glow-worm  glimmer  of 
these  lamps  is  one  of  the  evening  features  of  the  cities  of  Japan. 

Shinto  is  the  easiest  and  least  exacting  of  religions.  The  in- 
tervention of  a priest  is  not  ordinarily  needed,  for  there  are  no 
angry  deities  to  propitiate,  or  any  terrors  of  hell  to  avert,  and  both 
sexes  are  capable  of  offering  prayers.  Of  such  theie  are  many, 


870 


APPENDIX. 


and  so  lately  as  1873  a new  edition  of  certain  forms  was  pub- 
lished ; but  among  the  peasantry  it  seems  sufficient  to  frame  a wish 
without  uttering  it,  and  most  Shintoists,  in  Xorthern  Japan,  at 
least,  content  themselves  with  turning  to  the  sun  in  the  early 
morning,  rubbing  the  hands  slowly  together,  and  bowing.  There 
are  gods  of  all  things;  of  wisdom,  happiness,  protection  of  human 
abodes,  of  harvest,  of  learning,  of  the  gate  and  front  court,  of  the 
well,  the  kitchen  fireplace,  and  everything  else  to  which  supersti- 
tions of  unknown  origin  are  attached  by  the  ignorant.  The  direc- 
tions for  prayer  are,  “ Rising  early  in  the  morning,  wash  your  face 
and  hands,  rinse  out  the  mouth,  and  cleanse  the  body.  The" 
turn  to  the  province  of  Yamato,  strike  the  palms  of  the  hands  to- 
gether, and  worship,”  i.e.  bow  to  the  ground.  The  following  is  a 
specimen  of  one  of  the  most  enlightened  of  the  old  Shinto  prayers, 
translated  by  Mr.  Satow,  from  a book  called  Kimpi  MisliO,  put  for- 
ward by  the  Mikado  Juntoku  in  the  first  half  of  the  thirteenth 
century : — 

“ From  a distance  I reverently  w'orship  with  awe  before  Ame  no 
Mi-hashira,  and  Kuni  no  Mi-hashira  (the  god  and  goddess  of 
wind),  to  whom  is  consecrated  the  palace  built  with  stout  pillars 
at  Tatsuta  no  Tachinu,  in  the  department  of  Heguri,  in  the  prov- 
ince of  Yamato.  I say  with  aw'e.  Deign  to  bless  me  by  correcting 
the  unwitting  faults  w’hich,  seen  and  heard  by  you,  I have  com- 
mitted, by  blowing  off  and  clearing  aw^ay  the  calamities  which  evil 
gods  might  inflict,  by  causing  me  to  live  long  like  the  hard  and 
lasting  rock,  and  by  repeating  to  the  gods  of  heavenly  origin,  and 
the  gods  of  earthly  origin,  the  petitions  which  I present  every  day 
along  with  your  breath,  that  they  may  hear  with  the  sharp- 
earedness  of  the  forth-galloping  colt.”  Another  addressed  to  the 
kami-dana  is  as  follow’s,  “ Reverently  adoring  the  great  god  of  the 
two  palaces  of  Ise  in  the  first  place,  the  eight  hundred  myriads  of 
celestial  gods,  the  eight  hundred  myriads  of  terrestrial  gods,  all 
the  fifteen  hundred  myriads  ” (these  numbers  are  figurative  ex- 
pressions) “of  gods  to  whom  are  consecrated  the  great  and  small 
temples  in  all  provinces,  all  islands,  and  all  places  of  the  great 
Land  of  Eight  Islands,  the  fifteen  hundreds  of  myriads  of  gods 
wffiich  they  cause  to  serve  them,  and  the  gods  of  branch  palaces 
and  branch  temples,  and  Sohodo  no  Kami  ” [the  scare-crow], 
“whom  I have  invited  to  the  shrine  set  up  on  this  divine  shelf, 
and  to  whom  I offer  praises  day  by  day  — I pray  with  awe  that 
they  will  deign  to  correct  the  unwitting  faults  wdiich,  heard  and 


APPENDIX. 


371 


seen  by  them,  I have  committed,  and  blessing  and  favouring  me 
according  to  the  powers  which  they  severally  wield,  will  cause  me 
to  follow  the  divine  example,  and  to  perform  good  works  in  the 
Way.” 

As  a religion  Shinto  is  nearly  extinct,  and,  as  an  engine  of 
government,  its  power  is  undoubtedly  on  the  wane.  Westerr 
science  is  upsetting  its  cosmogony,  Western  philosophy  its  mythol 
ogy,  and  its  lack  of  an  ethical  code  makes  it  powerless  even 
among  a people  of  such  easy  morals  as  the  Japanese.  Motoori, 
its  modern  exponent  and  revivalist,  emphatically  states  that  the 
Chinese  invented  morals  because  they  were  an  immoral  people, 
but  that  in  Japan  there  was  no  such  necessity.  “ To  have  ac- 
quired the  knowledge  that  there  is  no  miclii  [ethics]  to  be  prac- 
tised and  learned  is  really  to  have  learned  to  practice  the  way  of 
the  gods.”  Mr.  Mori,  the  present  minister  to  England,  gives  it  as 
his  opinion  that  “ the  leading  idea  of  Shinto  is  a reverential  feel- 
ing towards  the  dead.  As  to  the  political  use  of  it,  the  State  is 
quite  right  in  turning  it  to  account  in  support  of  the  absolute  Gov- 
ernment which  exists  in  Japan.”  Sir  H.  S.  Parkes  says  of  it, 
“Japanese,  in  general,  are  at  a loss  to  describe  what  Shintd  is. 
. . . Infallibility  on  the  part  of  the  head  of  the  State,  which 
was  naturally  attributed  to  rulers  claiming  divine  descent,  was  a 
convenient  doctrine  for  political  purposes  in  China  and  Japan.” 
Mr.  Von  Brandt,  a student  of  Japanese  archaeology,  lately  German 
Minister  to  Japan,  writes  of  it,  “Little  is  known  of  Shinto  that 
might  give  it  the  character  of  a religion  as  understood  by  western 
nations.”  Kaempfer,  one  of  the  most  painstaking  and  accurate 
observers,  writes  thus:  — “ The  whole  Shinto  religion  is  so  mean 
and  simple  that,  besides  a heap  of  fabulous  and  romantic  stories  of 
their  gods,  demi-gods,  and  heroes,  inconsistent  with  reason  and 
common  sense,  their  divines  have  nothing  either  in  their  sacred 
books,  or  by  tradition,  wherewithal  to  satisfy  the  inquiries  of 
curious  persons  about  the  nature  and  essences  of  their  gods,  about 
their  power  and  government,  about  the  future  state  of  the  soul, 
and  such  other  essential  points  whereof  other  heathen  systems  are 
not  altogether  silent.”  Its  lack  of  a moral  code,  of  general  defi- 
niteness, and  of  teachings  concerning  a future  state,  sufficiently 
explain  the  easy  conquest  which  Buddhism  made  of  nearly  the 
whole  nation,  and  the  ascendency  which  it  still  retains  over  the 
uneducated.  Shinto,  with  it*  absence  of  a ritual,  of  doctrinal 
teaching,  of  sensuousness,  of  definite  objects  of  worship,  is  rather 


372 


APPENDIX 


a system  than  a religion.  It  is  hollow  and  empty;  it  has  literally 
nothing  in  it  which  can  influence  men’s  lives ; it  appeals  to  no  in- 
stincts of  good  or  evil,  and  promises  no  definite  destiny ; and  all 
attempts  to  resuscitate  it,  either  as  a bulwark  against  Christianity, 
or  as  a substitute  for  Buddhism  (which  contains  many  of  the 
elements  of  a religion,  and  much  to  gratify,  if  not  to  satisfy,  many 
of  the  cravings  of  human  nature),  must  necessarily  fail. 

These  notes  are  the  merest  outline  of  Shinto,  but  the  most 
elaborate  treatise  can  do  no  more  than  successfully  demonstrate 
its  utter  emptiness  of  all  that  to  our  ideas  constitutes  religion,  and 
excite  surprise  that  it  should  still  retain  any  place  among  a j>eo- 
ple  so  intelligent  as  the  Japanese.  The  explanation  probably  lies 
in  the  fact  that  it  is  interwoven  with  that  reverence  for  ancestors 
which  is  so  marked  a feature  of  Chinese  and  Japanese  character, 
and  in  that  general  indifference  to  any  religion  which  pervades 
Japan,  making  its  people  content  with  this  most  shadowy  and 
barren  of  creeds,  which  neither  enjoins  duties  nor  demands  sacri- 
fices, nor  holds  out  terrors  of  “judgment  to  come.” 


APPENDIX. 


373 


APPENDIX  C. 


TABLES  OF  THE  ESTIMATED  REVENUE  AND  EXPENDI- 
TURE FOR  THE  FINANCIAL  YEAR  1879-80.  [NOTE.  - 
5 YEN  ARE  ABOUT  EQUAL  TO  £1  STERLING.] 


REVENUE. 


I.  — First  Species  of  Tax : — 


Yen. 


Customs  — Export  Duties  . . 895,113.000 

“ Import  “ . . 1,247,215.000 

“ Ikliscellaneous  Receipts,  38,982.000 

Yen. 

' Total 2,181,310.000 


U.  — Second  Species  of  Tax : — 

Land  Tax  .... 
Mining  Tax  .... 
Tax  on  Salaries 

Tax  on  Produce  of  the  Hokkaidd 
Total 


Yen. 

41,000,950.000 

11.537.000 

81.992.000 
. 363,971.000 

Yen. 

41,458,450.000 


III.  — Third  Species  of  Tax  : — 

Tax  on  Alcoholic  Liquors 
Tax  on  Tobacco 
Stamps  on  Legal  Documents  . 
Postage  Stamps 

Tax  on  Ruled  Paper  for  Petitions 
Licenses  to  Attorneys  . 

Ship  and  Boat  Tax 
Vehicle  Tax  .... 

Tax  on  Companies 
Shooting  Licenses  . 

Horse  and  Cattle  Dealers’  Licenses 


Yen. 

4,507,272.000 

348.674.000 

539.168.000 
1,050,000.'000 

82.485.000 
9,500.000 

138.357.000 

270.348.000 
500,000.000 

45.652.000 

63.578.000 


Carry  forward  . 


7,555,034.000 


374 


APPENDIX. 


Revenue  — continued. 


Brought  forward  . 
Tax  on  Weights  and  Measures 
Copyright  Fees 

Passport  and  other  License  Fees 
Druggists’  Licenses  . . . 


. 7,555,034.000 

2.925.000 
3,409  000 

2.570.000 
79,131.000' 


Total 


lY.^ — Profits  of  Industrial  Works  : — 


Sado  and  Four  other  Mines  under 
the  control  of  the  Ministry  of 
Public  Works  .... 

Railways  under  the  control  of  the 
Ministry  of  Public  Works  . 

Akabane  and  Three  other  Work- 
shops under  the  control  of  the 
Ministry  of  Public  Works  . 

Shimmachi  Cotton  Mill  and  Two 
other  Places  under  the  control 
of  the  Ministry  of  the  Interior  . 

Mint  under  the  control  of  Minis- 
try of  Finance  .... 

Printing  Ofiice  under  the  control 
of  the  Ministry  of  Finance 

Yokosuka  Shipbuilding  Yard  and 
Two  others  under  the  control  of 
the  Ministry  of  Marine 


Yen. 

218,900.000 

391,100.271 

32,265.603 

12,585.000 

506,000.000 

30,000.000 

4,028.840 


Total 


Y.  — Receipts  fl-om  Government 
Property  and  other  Miscellane- 
ous Receipts  : — 

Sale  of  Government  Property 
Rent  of  Government  Property 
Rent  of  Government  Land  at  Open 
Cities  and  Ports  .... 
Miscellaneous  Receipts  . 


Yen. 

497,586.970 

142,156.051 

72,817.150 

1,647,745.709 


Yen. 

7,643,069.000 


Yen. 

1,194,939.714 


Total 


Yen 

2,360,305.880 


APPENDIX. 


375 


Revenue  — continued. 


VI.  — Refunds : — • 

Yen. 

Refund  of  Advances  . . . 532,360.577 

Refund  of  Loans  made  by  Impe- 
rial Princes  and  the  former  Ilan  200,350.285 
Refund  of  Estate-rated  Loan  . 80,593.578 

Yen. 

Total 813,304.440 


Grand  Total  of  Revenue  , . 55,651,379.034 

£11,130,000 


EXPENDITURE. 

I.  — Redemption  of  National  Debt:  — 

Yen. 

Domestic  Debt  — 

Principal  . . 2,764,111.368 

Interest  . . 14,753,058.200 

Redemption  of  Pa- 
per Money  . . 2,000,000.000 

Yen. 

Total  . . ; 19,518,169.568 

l?oreign  Debt  — 

Principal  . . 816,424.000 

Interest  . . 857,318.400 

Commission  . 8,368.712 

Yen. 

Total  . . . 1,682,111.112 

Yen. 

Total  of  both  Items  . . 21,200,280.680 


n.  — Civil  List  and  Appanages  of  the  Imperial 
Princes 


877,000.000 


37G 


APPENDIX. 


Expenditure  — continued. 

in.  — Eensions  for  Meritorious  Ser- 
vices, to  Shintd  and  Buddhist 
Priests,  etc.  — 


Retiring  Pensions  to  Soldiers  of  the  Yen, 

Old  Imperial  Guards  and  Line  . 15,640.977 

Pensions  of  Shinto  and  Buddhist 

Priests 125,281.000 

Annuities  attached  to  the  order  of 

IMerit 152,280.000 

Gratuities  to  the  Military  and  Cost 
of  Treatment  of  the  Wounded  . 266,202.000 

Grant  to  those  who  took  part  in  the 
Campaign  in  Kiushiu  . . 500,000.000 

Total 


Yen. 

1,059,403.977 


IV.  — Council  of  State,  Ministries, 
Senate,  Colonisation,  Com- 
mission, and  Special  Bu- 
reaus : — 


Yen. 

Council  of  State  . 

. 300,860.000 

hlinistry  for  Foreign  Affairs  . 

. 170,900.000 

u 

of  the  Interior 

. 1,275,500.000 

u 

of  Finance 

. 1,505,300.000 

H 

of  War  . 

. 7,190,100.000 

U 

of  Marine 

. 2,636,300.000 

U 

of  Public  Instruction 

. 1,139,970.000 

/ u 

of  Public  Works  . 

. 591,300.000 

u 

of  Justice 

. 1,314,800.000 

u 

of  the  Imperial  House- 

hold  . 

. 308,700.000 

Senate 

. . . . • 

. 142,480.000 

Colonisation  Commission 

. 1,513,174.178 

Land-tax  Reform  Bureau 

97,000.000 

General  Post  Office. 

. 1,050,000.000 

Yen. 


19,236,444.178 


Total 


APPENDIX. 


377 


Expenditure  — continued. 

V.  — Cost  of  Establishing  Industrial 
Undertakings : — 


Mines  at  Sado  and  Five  other 
places  under  control  of  the  Min- 
istry of  Public  Works 
Kiyoto  and  Kobe  Railway,  do. 

Telegraph,  do 

Workshops  at  Akabane  and  Four 
other  places,  do  . 

Shimosa  Sheep  Farm  and  Three 
other  places  under  control  of 
the  Ministry  of  the  Interior 
Mint  under  the  control  of  the  Min- 
istry of  Finance  .... 
Yokosuka  Shipbuilding  Yard  under 
control  of  the  Ministry  of  IMa- 
riue 


Yen. 

232,798.000 

33,300.000 

140,000.000 

165,502.000' 


72.793.000 
50,000.000 

70.200.000 


Total 


VI.  — Supplementary  Grants  of  Cap- 
ital for  carrying  on  Under- 
takings : — 


Kamaishi  Mine  under  the  control 
of  the  ^linistry  of  Public  Workc 

Telegraphs  under  do. 

Shinagawa  and  Fukagawa  Work- 
shops under  do. 

Shimosa  Sheep  Farm  and  One  other 
place  under  control  of  the  Minis- 
try of  the  Interior 


Yen. 

29,355.792 

101,335.000 

28,842.000 


80,958.000 


Total  . 


Vll. — Administrations  of  Cities  and 
Prefectures 


Yen. 

764.593.000 


Yen. 

240,490.792 


4,786,700.000 


378 


APPENDIX, 


Expenditure  — continued. 


Vm.  — Police  : — Yen. 

Central  Police  Bureau  (Tokijo)  . 1,310,820.400 
Police  in  2 Cities  and  35  Prefec- 
tures . ....  1,169,632.000 

Total  ..... 

XI.  — Temples  of  the  Gods  .... 

X . — Building,  Repairs,  and  Embank- 

ments in  Cities  and  Prefec- 
tures ; — Yen. 

Building  and  Repairs  . . . 540,700.000 

Embankments  ....  1,446,500.000 

Total 

XI.  — Diplomatic  and  Consular  Ser- 

vices   

XII.  — Miscellaneous  Expenditure 

Fund  for  Relief  of  Agri- 
cultural Distress  and  En-  Yen. 

coui'agement  of  Saving  . 1,200,000.000 
Erection  of  Museum  in  the  Public 
Garden  at  Uyeno,  under  control 
of  the  INIinistry  of  the  Interior  . 29,585.000 

Charges  for  repairs  of  the  Prisons 
and  Lockups  under  control  of  the 
Central  Police  Bureau  . . S0,.j61.901 

Appropriation  for  the  Sydney  Exhi- 
bition   29,817.300 

Erection  of  Barracks  at  Kanazawa  36,253.960 
Erection  of  the  Imperial  Palace  . 270,000.000 

Relief  to  the  (Hokkaido)  Militia  . 26,407.146 

Domestic  Industrial  Exhibition  . 43.890.000 

Miscellaneous  ....  151,298.700 

Total 

Mill.  — Contingent  Fund  .... 


Yen. 
2,486,452.400 
135,000.000 


Yen. 

1,987,200  000 
500,000.000 


Yen. 

1,877,814.007 

1,500,000.000 


Grand  Total  of  Expenditure  Yen.  55,651,379.034 

£11,130,000 


Revenue  and  Expenditure  are  equally  balanced. 


APPENDIX. 


379 


NATIONAL  DEBT. 


Domestic  Debt  — Interest  Bearing  Debt  — Yen. 


New  Debt,  4 per  cent  interest 
Bonds  in  exchange  for  kinsatsu,  6 
per  cent  interest .... 
Voluntarily  Capitalised  Pension 
Bonds,  8 per  cent 
Capitalised  Pension  Bonds  — Yen. 


At  5 per  cent  do. 
At  6 per  cent  do. 
At  7 per  cent  do. 
At  10  per  cent  do. 

Total 


31,412.555 

25,001.590 

107,997.015 

8,876.370 


11,327.675 


14,168.900 


173,287.530 


Bonds  for  Pensions  distributed  to  ex- 
Shinto  Priests,  at  8 per  cent  . . 423.325 

Public  Works  Loan  at  6 per  cent  . 12,500.000 

Loan  for  Suppression  of  Rebellion  at 
5 per  cent 15,000.000 


Total  . . . . 

Debt  bearing  no  Interest  . . . . 

Amount  of  Paper  Money  in  circulation 

Total  . . . . 


Yen. 

228,631.130 

9,439.732 

113,427.992 

351,498.854 


380 


APPENDIX. 


APPENDIX  D.  — FOREIGN  TRADE. 


(I.)  — Synoptic  Table  of  the  Import  Trade  of  Japan 


DESCRIPTION  OF  GOODS. 

* 1865. 

1867. 

1868. 

1869. 

1870. 

Vam  . ... 

«875,307 

$1,350,688 

$1,763,191 

$2,612,240 

$3,700,277 

Shirtings 

‘i.028,361 

2,684.078 

1 ,724,8.54 

1,760,440 

1,730,532 

Ollier  cotton  manufactures  . 
Mousseline  de  laine  (includ- 
ed in  other  woollens  up  to 

2,280,100 

1,713,539 

1,234,538 

878,343 

1,843,644 

the  year  1874) 

Other  woollen  and  woollen 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

and  cotton  goods 

6,701,067 

3,184.471 

209,171 

2,610.8.38 

2,010.5.53 

1,995,364 

Metals 

526,864 

693.780 

632,255 

330,681 

Anns  and  ammunition  . 

1,066.822 

1,618.840 

2.730.651 

1,8.57,625 

206.908 

Raw  cotton  .... 

1.1 5‘» 

757.104 

783,084 

8.58,940 

771,144 

Sugar  

208,174 

1.660..5.54 

345,267 

1,597,944 

2.482,293 

Rice 

- 

787,602 

1,315,705 

2,769,182 

12,755,331 

Kerosene 

Government  goods.  (No  re- 

■ 

■ 

■ 

- 

- 

turns  until  the  year  1873.) . 
Other  miscellaneous.  — For- 

“ 

- 

- 

- 

- 

eign  

Other  miscellaneous.  — East- 

347,f)63 

1,619,169 

1,491,043 

1,776,690 

3,231,007 

ern  

41,121 

367,172 

307,420 

602,419 

2,083,460 

Total  .... 

$14,076,938 

$15,952,388 

$1.5,000,371 

$17,3.56,631  j 

$31,120,641 

Total, 

Incomplete  Returns  — 

* Ao<e.  — The  absence  of  Returns  for  1866  is  due  to  the  destruction  of  the 
Mousseline  de  laive.  — 'Vh^^B  Returns  are  based  upon  the  custom-house  sUilistics; 
Metals.  — The  quantities  of  Metals  imported  in  1873  and  following  years  on  account 
Government  Gooda.  — These  figures  are  exclusive  of  foreign  merchant-vessels 


(IT.)  — Synoptic  Table  of  the  Export  Trade  of  Japan 


DESCRIPTION  OF  GOODS. 

* 1865. 

1867. 

1868. 

1869. 

1870. 

Silk,  all  kinds,  and  cocoons , 
Silkwonns’  eggs  . 

Tea 

Copper  

Tobacco  

Wax  (vegetable)  . 

Camphor 

Cbal 

Dried  fish 

Rice 

Miscellaneous. 

$14,842,879 

727,445 

1,934,971 

12,334 

.50.865 

32.706 

12.983 

95,485 

781,762 

$5,.598,510 

2.302,572 

2,006,023 

61,510 

33,140 

123.443 

97,293 

262.(i29 

300,375 

1,338,179 

$10,761,081 

4,199,138 

3,084,580 

18.475 

2.54.224 

114,4.89 

73,584 

193,689 

1.735,873 

$5,042,795 
2.728..500 
2.019,130 
124,7,35 
21.9(16 
9.', .420 
168.202 
101  .<oJ 
183,941 

986.336 

$5,309,.583 
3.473,1.50 
3.848.231 
461  093 
.74,112 
64.190 
22^■,889 
1.55,117 
328,391 

1,176,490 

Total 

$18,491,430 

$12,123,674 

$20,435,133 

$11,475,645  j$15,143,246 

Total, 


• Note.  — The  absence  of  Returns  for  1866  is  due  to  the  destmetion 


APPENDIX. 


381 


APPENDIX  D.  — FOREIGN  TRADE. 


FOR  Thirteen  Years,  ending  December  31,  1878. 


1871. 

1872. 

1873. 

1874. 

1875. 

1876. 

1877. 

1878. 

$3,609,444 

3,489,450 

912,584 

$5,933,342 

$3,357,046 

3,365,898 

$3.575,5.54 

$4,0.57,8.50 

$4. 151  ..51 4 

$4,088,890 

$7,560,963 

2,256,926 

2.616.723 

2.997.59.5 

2,312,929 

2,.548,621 

1,874,887 

3,070,544 

2,276,311 

1,893,053 

1,951,856 

2,629,635 

- 

- 

- 

1,074,931 

2,393,157 

2,263,273 

2.373,621 

2,779,983 

"Si'S 

7.572,180 

416,642 

2,244,490 

1,131,185 

2,383,610 

1,043,382 

2,011,843 

898.531 

3,004,4.57 
1,. 592,0.52 

3.013.675 

1.888,006 

83,617 

ui:S 

44,576 

363,669 

51.9.54 

724.911 

2,743,820 

461.729 

424,439 

296.878 

289.207 

3,308;549 

2 4?’So 

2.108,855 

2,579.406 

3,482,588 

2,872,148 

3,073,282 

768.190 

- 

34,192 

14,873 

5..579 

_ 

- 

- 

89,694 

323,374 

292,646 

590,032 

455,792 

602,72.5 

1,856,881 

- 

- 

797,395 

1,809,115 

3,475,277 

806,801 

670,537 

494,110 

2,398,433 

4.600,233 

5,332,115 

3,642,626 

4,441,537 

4,021,9.59 

4,698,436 

6,144,012 

312.415 

1,026,664 

574,226 

1,155,656 

999,903 

947,953 

846,722 

759,049 

$17,745,605 

$26,188,441 

$27,443,368 

$24,226,629 

$28,174,194 

$23,969,004 

$25,900,.541 

$33,334,392 

300,489,143  dollars,  x 


custom-house  records  at  Kanagawa  by  fire  In  that  year. 

the  actual  importation  in  the  year  187’4  and  succeeding  years  was  much  larger. 

of  the  Japanese  Government,  have  been  included  under  tlie  head  of  “ Government  Goods.’' 

purchased  by  the  Japanese  Government. 


FOR  Thirteen  Years,  ending  December  31,  1878. 


1871. 

1872. 

1873. 

1874. 

1875. 

1876. 

1877. 

1878. 

$8,4.57,839 

2.184,688 

4,651.292 

416,630 

269.3.59 

161,834 

138,575 

483,130 

410,034 

2,011,424 

$8,1.89,143 

1,963,1.59 

5,445.438 

1,3.53..545 

669.340 

347. . 542 

1.52.. 579 

573.. 527 
,324.000 

3.122.931 

2,1.53,028 

$7,7.50,015 
3,032.460 
4,,398.711 
765.815 
274  ..529 
377.670 
71.026 
489,278 
716.399 
.521.709 
2,263.382 

$5,894,.567 

731,275 

7,792,244 

215.642 
119,812 
551, 3(K) 
901,583 
839,619 
2,299,399 

$5,992,913 

474,921 

6,915,692 

42.5,160 

201,148 

186,244 

136,073 

8.58,883 

663,639 

17,091 

2,046,081 

5,427,218 

lilS 

177.398 

-05’?>6 

810J60 

2,710,767 

$10,330,308 

346,998 

4,409,320 

T64J)77 

240,065 

8f35,fiG0 

2,260.(36 

2,513,226 

$9,223,875 

682.606 

4,412,4.57 

107;M7 

106,367 

309,972 

8.57,322 

1.031,3.55 

4,641.6.53 

4,019,881 

$19,184,805 

$24,294,532 

$20,660,994 

$20,164  ,.585 

$17,917,845 

$27,578,851 

$22,866,708 

$26,2.59419 

$256,595,667 


of  the  custom-house  records  at  Ranagawa  by  fire  In  that  year. 


882 


APPENDIX. 


(III.)  — Summary  op  Imports  and  Exports  for  Tieirtee>' 
Years  ending  December  31,  1878. 


Ykab. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Total.  1 

1867*  ........ 

1868  

1869  

1870  •.  . . 

1872  

1873  

1874  ...  ..... 

1876  ........ 

1877  ........ 

1878  ..  . . . . . . 

Total  . . . . . 

Average  aanoal  trade 

$14,076,938 

15,952,388 

15.000. 371 
17,356.631 
31.120.641 
17.745.605 
26,188.441 
27.443.368 
24,226.629 
28.174.194 
23.969,004 

25.900.. 541 
33,334,392 

$18,490,230 

12,123,674 

20.435,133 

11,475,645 

15.143,246 

19,184,805 

24.294,532 

20.660,994 

20,164,585 

17,917,845 

27,578,851 

22,866,708 

26,259,419 

1 

$32,567,168  I 
28,076,062  . 
35,435.504  i 
28,832.276 
46,263,887 
36,930,410 
50,482,973 
48,104,362 
44.391,214 
46.092,039 
51  ..547,855 
48.767,249  | 
59,593,811  1 

$300,489,143 

$256,595,667 

$557,084,810 

$£3,117,549 

$19,738,128 

$42,852,677 

• No  Returns  for  1866,  owing  to  destruction  of  Kanagawa  records. 


(IV.) — Return  of  British  and  Foreign  Shipping  entered 
AT  ALL  Ports  of  Japan  for  Nineteen  Years. 


Yeab. 

BRITISH. 

OTHER  FOREIGN 
COUNTRIES. 

TOTAL. 

Ships. 

Tons. 

Ships. 

Tons. 

Ships. 

Tons. 

1860  . 

122 

45.279 

119 

43,103 

241 

88,382 

1861  . 

126 

52,347 

128 

47.776 

254 

100,123 

1862  . 

181 

57.362 

230 

71.678 

411 

129,040 

1863  . 

262 

87.000 

215 

71.356 

477 

158.356 

1864  . 

313 

118,907 

130 

44,235 

443 

163,142 

1865  . 

264 

99,649 

151 

67.223 

415 

166,872 

1866  . 

2.54 

100.195 

188 

81,943 

442 

182,138 

1867  . 

348 

139.006 

251 

159,154 

599 

298,160 

1868  . 

496 

192,185 

461 

389„581 

9.57 

581,766 

1869  . 

897 

410,105 

713 

659,293 

1,610 

1,069,398 

1870  . 

661 

319,471 

902 

841.704 

1,563 

1,161,175 

1871  . 

349 

166.929 

560 

734.241 

909 

901,170 

1872  . 

382 

204.077 

520 

756,427 

902 

960,434 

1873  . 

405 

234,459 

599 

804,948 

1,004 

1,039,407 

1874  . 

367 

237,432 

532 

732,510 

899 

969,942 

1875  . 

a50 

252.146 

481 

699,377 

831 

951,523 

1876  . 

356 

302,039 

345 

378,518 

701 

680,5.57 

1877  . 

403 

315,518 

343 

308,459 

746 

623,977 

1878  . 

487 

417,691 

851 

331,181 

838 

749,529 

APPENDIX. 


383 


(V.)  — Return  op  Foreign  Residents  and  Firms  at  the 
Open  Ports  of  Japan,  for  Five  Years,  from  1874-78. 


Tixk. 

BRITISH. 

OTHER FOREIGN 
COUNTRIES. 

CHINESE. 

TOTAL. 

Residents. 

Firms. 

Residents. 

Firms. 

* 

Residents. 

Firms. 

Residents. 

Firms. 

1874  .... 

1,170 

155 

1,238 

215 

2,723 

95 

5,131 

465 

1875  ...  . 

1,282 

109 

1,301 

148 

- 

_ 

_ 

_ 

1876  ...  . 

1,242 

80 

1,472 

141 

_ 

_ 

- 

- 

1877  ...  . 

1,156 

83 

1,336 

149 

2,107 

53 

4,599 

285 

X87S  • • • • 

1,067 

92 

1,410 

151 

3,028 

40 

5,505 

287 

IISTDEX. 


aBUKATVA. 


A 

Abukawa,  i.  340;  village  forge,  341. 

Abuta,  Aino  village,  ii.  138. 

Acupuncture,  i.  145. 

Adzuma  bridge,  i.  G6. 

Agano  river,  i.  185. 

Aganokawa  river,  i.  247. 

Aido,  ii.  274.  ' 

Aidzu  mountains,  i.  18G;  plain,  191. 

Aino  storehouses,  ii.  37,  GG;  houses, 
36,  54  ; plan  of,  90. 

Aino  words,  list  of,  ii.  359. 

Ainos,  the  hairy,  ii.  9-10,  38  ; neat- 
ness of  their  villages,  53  ; hospi- 
tality, 54  ; reverence  for  age,  57  ; 
truthfulness,  58  ; children,  G2,  80  ; 
honesty  and  generosity,  (54  ; po- 
liteness, 69  ; no  history,  75  ; phy- 
sique, 75  ; a patriarch,  77  ; height, 
78  ; women,  78,  93  ; tattooing,  79  ; 
obedience,  81  ; clothing,  83  ; jew- 
ellery, 84  ; houses,  84-86  ; house- 
hold gods,  87  ; Japanese  curios, 
88 ; mats,  89  ; food,  90 ; bows 
and  arrows,  91  ; weaving,  93  ; re- 
ligion, iXi  ; libations,  98  ; solitary 
act  of  sacrifice,  98  ; bear-worship, 
99 ; Festival  of  the  Bear,  100 ; 
ideas  of  a future  state,  101  ; social 
customs,  101  ; marriage  and  di- 
vorce, 102  ; amusements,  103  ; 
musical  instruments,  103  ; man- 
ners, 104  ; intoxication,  104  ; dirt, 
105  ; office  of  chief,  106  ; dread  of 
snakes,  107  ; of  death,  107  ; do- 
mestic life,  110. 

Ainos,  coast,  ii.  136,  137. 

Ainos,  Lebunge,  ii.  146. 

Akamatz,  the  “ English-speaking 
priest,”  ii.  243  ; his  appearance. 


bath. 

244  ; on  Nirvana,  247  ; the  objects 
of  the  Buddhist  faith,  248  ; trans- 
migration, 249  ; the  English  philo- 
sophy, 252. 

Akayu,  i.  266  ; horse-fair,  266  ; hot 
sulphur  springs,  268. 

Akita  farm-house,  i.  397. 
Alphabets,  or  syllabaries,  i.  325. 
Amainu,  or  heavenly  dogs,  i.  72. 
Andon,  the,  or  native  lamp,  i.  141. 
Aomori  Bay,  i.  402 ; town,  402 ; 

lacquer,  403. 

Arai  river,  i.  250. 

Arakai  river,  i.  174. 

Araya,  i.  308. 

Arciiery  galleries  at  Asakusa,  i. 
75. 

Architecture,  temple,  uniformity 
of,  i.  64. 

Area  of  Japan,  i.  4. 

Arima  village,  ii.  307. 

Army,  ii.  326. 

Arrow-traps,  ii.  92. 

Art,  Japanese,  modern,  ii.  254-258. 
Asakusa,  temple  of  Kwan-non  at, 
i.  64. 

Assama,  village  and  hill,  ii.  287. 
Assemblies,  provincial,  ii.  159. 
Automatic  rice-cleaner,  i.  162. 
Awoyama  hamlet,  ii.  274. 

Azaleas,  rose,  i.  127. 


B 

Bandaisan,  the  double-peaked,  i. 
186. 

Bange,  congress  of  schoolmasters, 
i.  184. 

Barbarism  and  ignorance,  i.  lf'2. 
Barbers’  shops,  i.  147. 

Bargaining,  i.  146,  234. 

Batii,  the  hot,  i.  171. 


385 


386 


INDEX. 


BEAK. 

Bear,  Festival  of  the,  ii.  99,  100. 
Beggary,  absence  of,  i.  256. 

Benri,  chief  of  the  Ainos,  ii.  48,  74, 
106-109. 

Binzuru,  the  medicine  god,  i.  72. 
Biratori,  ii.  54  ; wooden  temiDle,  or 
shrine  of  Yoshitsune,  72. 

Biwa,  lake,  ii.  262,  294 ; tea-house 
on,  2‘)5. 

Blind  men  in  Japan,  i.  346. 

Board  of  Industries  at  Kiyoto,  ii. 
258, 

Boats,  i.  349. 

Bon  festival  at  Hakodate,  ii.  24,  25. 
Books,  i.  228-230. 

Bronze  and  pottery,  ii.  256. 
Buddhism,  the  Protestants  of,  ii. 
242. 

Buddhist  service  at  Hakodate,  ii. 

16  ; sermon,  17-19. 

Burial,  Buddhist,  peculiarities  of, 
i.  157. 

Burial-grounds,  i.  157. 


C 

Calligraphy,  i.  136, 137. 
Camphor-groves  at  GekO,  ii.  280. 
Canoes,  ii.  153. 

Cemeteries  for  pack-horses,  i.  179. 
Charms,  i.  388,  389. 

Chayas,  or  tear-houses,  i.  87,  90. 
Cheating  a policeman,  i.  304,  305. 
Children,  Japanese,  i.  39. 
Children’s  parties,  i.  1:M  ; a juvenile 
belle,  134  ; games,  135. 

China,  blue,  i.  226. 

Chinamen  in  Yokohama,  i.  47  ; the 
Compradore,48. 

Chiuzenjii  lake  and  village,  i.  125. 
Chokaisan  snow  mountain,.!.  278, 
297. 

Cholera  at  Niigata,  i.  211. 

Christian  converts,  i.  386. 
Christianity,  progress  of,  ii.  309-313. 
Churches,  missionary,  at  Yedo,  i. 
34. 

Civilisation,  Western,  i.  9. 
Cleanliness,  want  of,  i.  167-172. 
Climate,  varieties  of,  i.  3,  33. 
Climate  of  Niigata,  i.  224.  ^ 

Clogs,  i.  29,  39. 

Coal-fields  in  Yezo,  ii.  2. 

Coinage,  ii.  330. 

Code,  penal,  ii.  332. 

Compradore,  the,  or  Chinese  facto- 
tum, i.  48. 

Coolies,  baggage,  i.  256,  257. 
Corrals,  Yezo,  ii.  126. 

Costumes,  i.  37  ; the  kimono,  38  ; 


FOOD. 

obi,  or  girdle,  38  ; haori,  or  short 
upper  garment,  38  ; hakama,  or 
trousers,  39  ; foot-clogs,  39  ; win- 
ter and  summer,  153. 

Cow,  riding  a,  i.  253. 

Cremation,  ii.  316  ; building  for  the 
purpose,  317  ; mode  of  burning, 
318. 

Criminal  Code,  ii.  332,  333. 

Crows,  ii.  151,  152. 

Cucumbers,  consumption  of,  i.  232, 
250. 

D 

Daikoku,  the  god  of  wealth,  i.  273. 

Daikon  (Raphanus  saiivus),  univer- 
sal use  of,  i.  237. 

Daimiyd,  the,  ii.  321. 

Daiya  river,  i.  105,  124,  130. 

Dening,  Mr.,  his  missionary  zeal, 
ii.  158. 

Dirt  and  disease,  i.  169-172. 

Doctors,  Japanese,  i.  248. 

Dogs,  Japanese,  i.  159;  yellow,  ii. 
53. 

Dreams,  i.  394. 

E 

Earthquake,  shocks  of,  i.  119. 

Ecclesiastical  furniture  shops  at 
Niigata,  i.  227. 

Eclipse,  superstitions  about,  i.  394. 

Education,  ii.  336-340  ; when  there 
are  no  schools,  i.  351  ; female,  at 
Kobe,  ii.  224-226. 

Educational  system,  ii.  336. 

El4(jante,  a Japanese,  i.  81. 

Elm,  the,  its  girth,  i.  180. 

Emigration,  ii.  4. 

Expenditure  and  revenue,  ii.  348, 
373-379. 

F 

Farm-houses,  i.  396,  397. 

Fauna  of  Japan,  i.  6. 

Ferry,  a Japanese,  i.  174. 

Festival,  the  Tanabata,  at  Kuroi- 
shi,  i.  381 ; of  the  Bear,  ii.  99-101. 

Feudalism,  end  of,  ii.  322. 

Filature,  visit  to  a,  i.  277. 

Floods,  and  force  of  water,  i.  367, 
370. 

Flora  of  Japan,  i.  5. 

Floriculture,  Japanese,  i.  11. 

Flowers  of  Yezo,  ii.  41. 

“ Flowing  Invocation,”  the,  i.  -260- 
262. 

Food  and  Cookery,  Japanese,  i, 


INDEX. 


387 


FOOD. 

237;  fish,  237  ; game,  238;  vege- 
tables, 238;  the  daikon,  238;  fruit, 
239 ; sea-weed,  239 ; cakes  and 
confectionery,  240 ; cleanliness, 
241;  raw  fish,  soups,  242;  menus, 
243;  drinks,  244. 

Food  question,  the,  i.  53. 

Food  shops,  i.  232. 

Foreign  trade,  ii.  351-357. 

Foreigners  in  Japan,  i.  8;  in  Gov- 
ernment service,  10. 

Forgeries  of  European  eatables 
and  drinkables,  i.  276. 

“ Front  horse,”  a,  ii.  29,  43. 

Fuiihara,  i.  158;  dirt  and  squalor, 
159. 

Fujisan,  fir.st  view  of,  i.  13;  in  the 
evening  light,  ii.  203;  from  a vil- 
lage on  the  Tokaido,  316. 

Fukiage',  or  Imperial  Gardens,  i.  36. 

Funeral,  Buddhist,  at  Rokugo,  i. 
297;  the  coffin,  or  box,  298;  pro- 
cession, 300. 

Fusuma,  or  sliding  paper  panels,  i. 
91-101. 

Futami-sama,  ii.  286;  dreary  shrine 
of  pilgrimage,  286;  legend  of,  287, 
(note). 

Fyson,  Mr.,  Church  missionary,  i. 
202,  203;  result  of  three  years’ 
work,  204. 

G 

Games,  amusements,  i.  135, 138;  for 
children,  375. 

Gardens,  Japanese,  i.  223. 

Geishas,  or  dancing  girls,  i.  100. 

GekO  shrine,  the,  ii.  280  (see'ise). 

Ghosts,  i.  390-392. 

Ginsainoma,  Yezo,  ii.  27. 

Ginseng,  the  Chinese,  i.  175  (see 
Ninjin.) 

Go-ban,  a Japanese  game,  ii.  33. 

Gods,  Aino  household,  ii.  87. 

Goliei,  a religious  symbol,  i.  112. 

Gongen  of  Nikko,  shrine  of  the,  i. 
125. 

Government,  the,  of  Japan,  ii.  324. 

Groves  and  high  places,  i.  178. 

Guide-books,  Japanese,  i.  139. 

Guneho,  the,  a local  official,  i.  286. 


H 

Hachiishi,  its  doll  street,  i.  105; 

shopping  in,  105. 

Hair-dressing,  i.  144. 

'Hair-pins,  ornamental,  i.  226. 
Hakodate,  ii.  5;  trade,  6;  exter- 


IRIMICHI. 

nal  aspect,  12;  peculiar  roofs,  12; 
Buddhist  daily  service,  16;  hos- 
pital, 21;  prison,  22-24;  Bon  Fes- 
tival, 24;  English  church  at,  158; 
Junks,  164. 

Hakodate  harbour,  i.  404. 

Haruku,  Empress,  patroness  of 
higher  education  of  women,  ii. 
343. 

Hase-dera,  ii.  269;  temple  of  Kwan- 
non,  270. 

Hepburn,  Dr.,  i.  46. 

Ilibachi,  the,  ii.  260. 

Hideyoshi’s  summer  palace,  ii.  248, 
Higenasha,  ii.  271. 

Hinokiyama  village,  i.  347. 

Hioga  Buddha,  a,  ii.  221. 

Hiogo,  medical  dispensary  at,  ii. 
306. 

Hirakawa  river,  i.  369;  destruction 
of  bridge,  370. 

Hiroshima  Maru,  mail  steamer,  ii. 
217. 

Home-life  in  Japan,  i.  138. 
Homogeneity  of  the  country,  i.  360; 

home  occupations,  360. 

Honoki,  pass  of,  i.  255. 

Hornets,  i.  ^80. 

Horobets,  ii.  36-126. 

Horse-ants,  i.  280. 

Horse-breaking,  Jajmnese,  ii.  123, 
140. 

Horse  treatment  of,  i.  322;  in 
Yezo,  ii.  29;  drove  of,  41. 
Hospital  at  Nakajo,  i.  207. 
House-masters,  harassed  interests, 
i.  358. 

Hozawa  village,  i.  192. 


I 

Ichikawa  pass,  i.  176;  villages,  177 : 
waterfall,  177. 

Ichinono  hamlet,  i.  257. 

Idols,  i.  388.  • 

Ikari,  i.  165. 

Ikarigaseki,  detention  at,  i.  369-379; 
occupation,  372;  kite-flying,  374; 
games,  375. 

Ikinagi,  medical  dispensary  at,  ii. 
306. 

Imaichi,  i.  104. 

Inari,  or  fox  temple  at  Asakusa,  i. 

74;  of  Fushima,  ii.  261. 

Infant  prodigy,  an,  i.  324. 
Iniwashiro  lake,  i.  180. 

Innai,  i.  289;  upper  and  lower,  291. 
Insect  pests  at  Niigata,  i.  218. 
Irimichi,  i.  132;  village  school,  132, 
133. 


388 


INDEX. 


mONCLAD. 

Ironclad,  Japanese,  ii.  162. 

Is^:,  shrines  of,  ii.  278;  the  o-harai, 
or  ticket,  279;  the  Gekh  shrine, 
280;  camphor  groves,  280;  enclo- 
sures, 281,  282;  Holy  of  holies, 
283;  origin  of  the  mirror,  283. 

Isshinden,  ii.  292;  temple  gateway 
at,  293. 

Ito,  first  impressions,  i.  51,  52;  tak- 
ing a “squeeze,”  129;  cleverness 
and  intelligence,  159;  particular- 
ly described,  318;  excellent  mem- 
ory, 319;  an  apt  pupil,  320,  321; 
delinquency,  ii.  20;  parting,  165. 

Itosawa,  i.  168. 

Itoyasan  precipices,  i.  186. 

Iwakisan  plain,  i.  387. 

lyemitsu,  temple  of,  at  Nikko,  i. 
117. 

lyeyasu’s  tomb  at  Nikko,  i.  116. 

J 

JiN-Ri-Ki-SHAS,  i.  18  (see  Kuruma). 

K 

Kaitakushi,  or  Development  De- 
partment, ii.  3 (see  Yezo). 

Kajikawa  river,  i.  247. 

Kak’ke,  a Japanese  disease,  i.  291. 

Kakemonos,  wall-pictures,  i.  101, 
108. 

Kamidana,  the,  or  god-shelf,  i.  140. 

Kaminoyama,  i.  269;  hot  springs, 
269;  the  Belle  of,  270;  kura  or 
godown,  271,  272. 

Kanaya’s  house,  i.  107 ; floral  deco- 
ration, 108;  table  equipments, 
109. 

Kanayama,  i.  280. 

Kasukabe,  i.  92;  the  yadoya,  92; 
lack  of  privacy,  94;  a night 
alarm,  95. 

Kdtakado  hamlet,  i.  186. 

Kawaguchi  village,  i.  250 ; old  vil- 
lage, 353. 

Kayashima,  i.  168;  dirt  and  dis- 
comfort, 168;  a diseased  crowd, 
169. 

Kegon-no-taki  fall,  the,  i.  130. 

Keiki,  the  last  Shogun,  ii.  322. 

Kenrei,  or  provincial  governor,  i. 
220,  287. 

Kimono,  the,  or  gown  for  both  sex- 
es, i.  37-3i). 

Kiuugawa  river,  i.  156,  159,  163. 

Kiriishi  hamlet,  i.  348. 

Kisagoi  hamlet,  i.  151. 

Kisaki,  i.  247. 


KWAN-NON. 

Kite-competition,  i.  374. 

Kitsugawa  river,  ii.  273. 

Kiyoto,  ii.  229;  American  Mission 
School  for  girls,  231;  the  College, 
232-236;  Mr.  Davis,  233;  converts, 
236;  shopping,  254;  art-objects, 
255;  Nishigin  silk-weavers,  257; 
Board  of  Industries,  258;  female 
industrial  schools,  258;  hospital, 
258. 

Kobe,  ii.  217;  a mission  centre,  219; 
model  settlement,  220;  Girls’ 
Home,  222,  223;  female  educa- 
tion, 222-226  ; Oriental  courtesies, 
226. 

Kocho,  the,  or  chief  man  of  the  %’il- 
lage,  i.  283,  286,  289. 

Kohiaku,  mountain  farm,  i.  152. 

Komatsu,  i.  262;  good  accommoda- 
tion, 263;  silk  and  silk-culture, 
264,  265. 

Komono-taki  volcano,  ii.  27,  154. 

Kompira,  the  god,  to  whom  men’s 
top-knots  are  offered  as  vows  of 
temperance,  ii.  295. 

Kotatsu,  the,  ii.  261. 

Kotsunagi,  i.  350. 

Kubota,  i.  307;  brisk  trade,  308; 
hospital,  309-312;  Normal  School, 
313;  silk-factory,  315;  police  es- 

• cort,  315;  ruined  castle,  316;  in- 
creasing study  of  law,  317;  af- 
ternoon visitors,  323;  an  infant 
prodigy,  324;  Japanese  wedding, 
325-331. 

Kiiy^,  the,  ii.  321. 

Kuroishi,  i.  380;  festival  at,  381; 
position,  387. 

Kurokawa,  matsuri  at,  i.  249. 

Kurosawa,  poverty  and  dulness, 
251 ; dirt  and  barbarism,  252. 

Kuruma,  the,  or  jin-ri-ki-sha,  i.  18, 
19. 

Kuruma-rmixxQrs,  costume  of,  i.  85; 
sketch  of,  ii.  266. 

Kurumatoge,  i.  167 ; inn  on  the  hill, 
187 ; hostess,  188. 

Kurumatoge  pass,  i.  191. 

Kushidagawa,  ii.  275. 

Kwan-xox,  temple  of,  at  Asakusa, 
i.  64;  legend  of  her  origin,  64 
(note)]  perpetual  fair,  67 ; the  Ni-d, 
68;  votive  offerings,  69;  the  high 
altar,  70;  prayers  and  pellets,  71; 
Binzuru,  the  medicine  god,  72; 
Amainu,  or  heavenly  dogs,  72; 
stone  lanterns,  73;  Inari  or  fox 
temple,  74 ; the  c/ohei  and  the  torii, 
74;  revolving  shrine,  74;  temple 
grounds,  archery  galleries,  75; 
floral  monstrosities,  78 


INDEX. 


389 


KWAN-NON. 

Kvvan-non,  temple  of,  at  Hase-dera, 
ii.  270. 

L 

Lacquer,  coarse,  at  Niigata,  i. 
226. 

Lacquer  tree,  the  {Rhus  vernicifera), 
i.  180, 193. 

Land  Transport  Company,  or  Riku- 
unkaisha,  i.  149, 

Lanterns,  paper,  i.  230,  231;  stone, 
i.  73. 

Laws,  domestic,  ii.  334. 

Lebunge,  ii.  144;  its  isolation,  144; 
Ainos,  144. 

Lebungetoge  passes,  ii.  141. 
Legation,  the  British,  at  Yedo,  i. 
29. 

Letters,  Japanese,  samples  of,  ii. 
165. 

Literature  for  women,  i.  228. 

Lotus  flower,  symbol  of  purity,  i. 
299;  ii.  247. 

M 

\ 

Magaeshi  liamlet,  i.  124. 

Mago,  the,  or  leader  of  a pack- 
horse,  i.  122,  155. 

Man-carts,  two- wheeled,  i.  23,  24, 
Marine,  mercantile,  ii,  330. 

Maro,  or  loin-cloth,  i.  89. 

Marriage,  a Japanese,  i.  325;  trous- 
seau and  furniture,  327 ; wedding 
ceremony,  328-331 ; code  of  morals 
for  women,  332-335, 

Matsuhara  village,  i.  260. 

Matsumm,  Yezo,  ii.  7. 
Matsu-no-gawa  river,  ii.  294. 
Matsvri  at  Minato,  i.  336;  cars,  338; 

antique  dances,  339. 

Matsusaka,  ii.  275. 

Medical  missionary  work,  i.  209; 
college,  ii.  340. 

Mikado,  the,  his  “Oath  of  Prog- 
ress,” ii.  324. 

Mikoshi,  or  sacred  car,  i.  68. 
Millet-mill  and  pestle,  ii.  55. 
Minato,  the  junk  j)ort  of  Kubota,  i. 

•336;  matsuri  at,  336-340. 

Mints,  public,  in  Japan,  ii.'JSO. 
Mirror,  lady’s,  i.  385. 

Mirror,  the  Shinto,  ii.  283. 

“Missing  Link,”  the,  ii.  148. 
Missionaries  at  Niigata,  i.  202-204; 

Medical  Mission,  205-211. 

Miwa,  ii.  265. 

Miycgawa,  ii.  276. 

Miyojintake  mountain,  i.  186. 
Mogami  river,  i.  278. 


NISHI-HONGUWANJI. 

Mombets,  ii.  112;  agricultural  set- 
tlement of,  131. 

Money,  i.  20;  current,  150. 

Monto  sect,  the,  ii.  242  (see  Shin- 
shiu). 

Morals,  code  of,  for  women,  Japan- 
ese, i.  332-335. 

Mori,  village,  ii.  32. 

Mori,  Mr.  Arenori,  ii.  207;  his  Jap- 
anese reception,  208-213. 

Morioka  village,  i.  341. 

Mororan,  ii.  34;  bay,  36. 

Mororan,  Old,  ii.  127. 

Mourning,  period  of,  i.  301. 

Moxa,  the,  i.  145. 

Mud-flats  of  Yedo,  i.  87,  88. 
Mushroom  culture,  ii.  273. 

Music,  Japanese,  ii.  212,  213. 
Musical  instruments,  ii.  214,  215. 


N 

Nagaoka  Government  hospital,  i. 
207. 

Naiku  shrine,  the,  ii.  288. 

Nakajo,  Japanese  doctors,  i.  248; 
Buddhism,  249. 

Nakano,  Lower,  i.  398;  public  bath- 
houses, 399. 

Nakano,  Upper,  i.  398. 

Names,  female,  i.  135. 

Namioka,  i.  402. 

Nanai,  Yezo,  ii.  30. 

Nantaizan  mountains,  i.  104;  Shin- 
to shrine  on  summit,  125. 

Nara,  ii.  263;  treasury  of  antiqui- 
ties,  265. 

National  Debt  of  Japan,  ii.  347. 

Navy,  ii.  326. 

Needle- work,  i.  136. 

Neesima,  Mr.,  the  first  Christian 
pastor  in  Japan,  ii.  238;  his  trav- 
els, 239. 

Newspaper  press,  ii.  331. 

Nichiren  sect  of  Buddhists,  their 
form  of  invocation,  i.  362. 

Nikko,  its  beauties,].  Ill;  shrines 
of  the  Shoguns,  112;  the  Red 
Bridge,  113;  the  Yoraei  Gate,  114; 
great  staircase,  116;  lyeyasu’s 
tomb,  116;  temples  of  lycmitsu, 
117 ; the  Ni-v,  117 ; wood-carving, 
120. 

Nikkosan  mountains,  the,  i.  151. 

Nimjm,  cultivation  of,  i.  175,  176. 

Ni-6,  the,  at  Asakusa,  i.  68. 

Nirvana,  ii.  247. 

Nishi-Honguwanji  temple,  the,  ii 
244;  the  high  altar,  245;  Sakya« 
muni,  246. 


390 


INDEX. 


NISHIGIN. 

Nisliigin,  silk-weavers,  ii.  257. 

Nobara,  ii.  273;  mud,  274. 

Nojiri,  village,  i.  187. 

Nopkobets  river,  ii.  138. 

Nosoki,  Dr.,  i.  281;  lotion  and  feb- 
rifuge, 281;  old-fasliioned  practi- 
tioner, 282;  at  dinner,  283. 

Nosoki  village,  i.  289. 

Nozawa  town,  i.  18G. 

Niigata,  a Treaty  Port,  i.  202;  mis- 
sionaries, 202;  Temple  Street, 
212;  interior  of  a temple,  212; 
Buddhist  priests,  213;  absence  of 
foreign  trade,  218;  insect  pests, 
218;  population,  219;  hospital, 
schools,  220;  cleanliness,  221; 
water-ways,  221;  houses,  222; 
gardens,  223;  climate,  224;  shops, 
225-233;  books,  228-230;  paper, 
230;  lanterns,  230;  food-shops, 
232;  quack  medicines,  232;  bar- 
gaining, 234;  impositions,  235. 

Numa  hamlet,  i.  252;  crowded 
dwellings,  252. 


O 

Obanasawa,  i.  278. 

Odate,  i.  353;  nocturnal  disturb- 
ances, 354;  trade,  355. 

Okawa,  stream,  i.  104. 

Okimi,  i.  253. 

Omagori,  manufacture  of  large 
earthenware  jars  for  interment,  i. 
298. 

Omono  river,  i.  289,  297,  307. 

Ono,  ii.  14;  disorderly  audience, 
14. 

Qri  pass,  i.  253. 

Osaka,  water-ways  and  bridges,  ii. 
302;  domestic  life,  303;  ladies’ 
pets,  304;  position  of  women, 
304;  Medical  Mission,  305. 

Oshamambe,  ii.  149. 

Osharu  river,  ii.  132. 

Otsu,  ii.  292;  matsuri  of  the  god 
Shindmiya,  296. 

Ouchi  hamlet,  i.  176. 

Oyake  lake,  i.  176. 


P 

Pack-cows,  i.  253,  258. 

Pack-horse  and  saddle,  i.  122,  123; 

a vicious,  266,  294. 

Packet-boat,  “ running  the  rapids  ” 
of  Tsugawa,  i.  196-198. 

Palm,  Dr.,  medical  missionary,  i. 
202,  206;  Government  hospital  at 


SAMURAI. 

Nakajo,  207  ; the  Niigata  dispen- 
sary, 208;  increase  of  medical 
missionary  work,  209;  his  tan- 
dem, 248. 

Paper,  manufactured  from  the 
JBroussonettia  papyrifera,  i.  182, 
183 ; various  uses,  182. 

Parental  love,  i.  143. 

Passports,  i.  8,  84. 

Peasant  costume,  i.  98. 

Pellets  and  prayers,  i.  71. 

Pipichari,  the  Aino,  ii.  68. 

Police  force,  the  Japanese,  ii.  326. 
Population  of  Japan,  i.  7.  v 

Postal  progress,  ii.  327. 

Proverbs,  popular,  i.  376,  377. 
Punishments,  ii.  333-335. 


Q 

Quack  medicines,  i.  233. 


R 

Railroad  development,  ii.  328. 

Rain-cloak,  straw,  i.  346. 

Reiheishi-kaido  road,  an  “In  me- 
moriam”  avenue,  i.  103. 

Religion  in  Japan,  i.  8,  192. 

Religious  edifices  and  symbols, 
neglect  of,  i.  179. 

Restaurant,  portable,  i.  17. 

Revenue  of  Japan,  ii.  339,  373-379. 

Elms  succedanea,  the  vegetable  wax- 
tree,  i.  193. 

Elms  vernicifera,  the  lacquer-tree, 
i.  193. 

Rice  culture,  i.  87-89. 

Rokken,  ii.  275. 

Rukugo,  i.  297;  Buddhist  funeral, 
297-302;  temple,  303. 


S 

Saikaiyama,  i.  192. 

Sakamoki  river,  i.  274;  bridge,  274, 
275. 

Sakatsu  pass,  i.  289. 

Sake,  the  national  ^ drink,  i.  139, 
341;  brewing,  342,'  343;  libations 
of,  ii.  98. 

Sakuratogd  river,  i.  258. 

Salisburia  adianti folia,  ii.  142, 147. 

Salmon  fishery  of  Yezo,  ii.  5. 

Samisen,  the  national  female  instrU' 
ment,  i.  137. 

Sampans,  or  native  boats,  i.  16. 

Samurai,  the,  ii.  321. 


INDEX. 


391 


SANDA. 

Sanda,  ii.  307  ; evening  gathering 
at,  308 ; Christian  converts,  308. 

Sanno  pass,  i.  17G. 

Sarufuto,  ii.  40. 

Sarufutogawa  river,  ii.  53,  65. 

Satow,  ]NIr.  Ernest,  Japanese  Secre- 
tary of  Legation,  i.  31  ; his  en- 
tertainment, ii.  209  ; amateur  or- 
chestra, 209;  juvenile  performer, 
211;  music,  212-214;  musical  in- 
struments, 214. 

Satsuporo  Agricultural  College,  ii. 
3;  town,  7. 

Savage  life  at  Biratori,  ii.  50,  74. 

School,  a village,  i.  132  ; punish- 
ments, 133;  amusements,  134. 

Schools,  male  and  female,  ii.  337  ; 
middle,  339;  normal,  341. 

Scramble,  a Yezo,  ii.  43. 

Servant,  engaging  a,  i.  49-52. 

Shampooing,  i.  346. 

Shiba,  the  shrines  of,  i.  45. 

Shinagawa,  or  Shinbashi,  i.  28. 

Shinano  river,  i.  219,  247. 

Shingoji,  i.  305;  rude  intrusion,  306; 
voyage  down  the  river,  307. 

Shinjo,  i.  278;  trade,  279;  discom- 
forts, 280. 

Shinkawa  river,  i.  247. 

Shinnomiya,  the  god,  matsuri  of, 
at  Otsu,  ii.  296  ; decorations,  297; 
shrine  of  the  fox-god,  298;  cars, 
298,  299. 

Shinshiu,  the,  or  Monto  sect,  ii. 
242  ; Akainatz,  the  priest,  243  ; 
temples,  244-246. 

Shione  pass,  i.  289. 

Shinto,  notes  on,  ii.  363. 

Sliirakasawa,  mountain  village,  i. 
258  ; kindly  courtesies,  259. 

Shiraoi,  ii.  40,  115;  volcanic  phe- 
nomena, 117;  forest,  118;  lianas, 
120;  bear-trap,  121;  houses,  122. 

Shirasawa,  i.  356;  eclipse  at,  364. 

Shiribetsan  mountain,  ii.  131. 

Shoji,  or  sliding  windows,  i.  94. 

Shopping  in  Kiyoto,  ii.  254. 

Shops,  native,  i.  142. 

Silk,  and  silk-culture,  i.  264,  265. 

Skin-diseases,  i.  144. 

Solitary  ride,  a,  ii.  27-30. 

Spiritualism,  i.  390. 

“ Squeeze,”  a,  i.  53,  129. 

Straw  shoes  for  horses,  i.  162. 

Suicide  more  frequent  in  women 
than  in  men,  i.  188. 

Sulphur  baths  at  Yamoto,  i.  127-129. 

Sumida  river,  i.  34,  66. 

Superstitions,  i.  388-395. 


TOKIYO. 


T 

Taihetsan  mountain,  i.  308. 

Tajima,  i.  174. 

Takadayama  mountain,  i.  161. 

Takahara,  i.  162;  hot-springs,  163. 

Takata,  i.  181;  paper  manufacture, 
183. 

Tamagawa,  i.  253. 

Tarumai  volcano,  ii.  42;  ascent  to, 
116-118. 

Tatami,  or  house-mats,  i.  93. 

Taxation,  i.  287,  288. 

Tea-plant,  ii.  262;  tea-making,  263. 

Telegraph  department,  ii.  328. 

Temple,  interior  of  Buddhist,  i.212; 
resemblance  between  Buddh- 
ist and  Roman  ritual,  214;  a pop- 
ular preacher,  215;  bronze  figure 
of  Buddha,  215;  Nirvana,  the 
greatest  good,  215 ; eternal  life, 
216. 

Tendo,  i.  278. 

Theatres,  i.  55;  the  ancient  drama, 
56;  modern,  56;  Japanese  play, 
58 ; the  Shintomi,  59  ; Morita’s 
opening  address,  61 ; moral  re- 
forms, 62;  a comic  pastoral,  63. 

Threshing,  varieties  in,  i.  98. 

Tobacco,  use  of,  at  first  forbidden, 
i.  284;  discussions  on,  285. 

Tochigo,  i.  99;  the  yadoya,  100. 

Tochiida,  i.  278. 

Togenoshita,  ii.  152,  153. 

Toilet,  a lady’s,  i.  383;  hair-dress- 
ing, 383 ; paint  and  cosmetics, 
384  ; mirror,  384. 

Tokaido,  the,  ii.  2i)4. 

Tokiyo,  i.  26;  first  impressions,  28; 
the  British  Legation,  29;  street 
sights,  33  ; Foreign  Concession, 
or  Tsukiji,  33 ; missionary 
churches,  34;  architectural  vul- 
garities, 34;  Fukiage',  or  Imperial 
Gardens,  36 ; costumes,  37-40; 
courtesies,  behaviour,  40;  col- 
leges and  their  instructors,  42; 
afternoon  tea,  43 ; shrines  of  Shi- 
ba, 44;  English  Church,  44;  thea- 
tre, 55;  a Japanese  play,  58;  the 
Shintomi  theatre,  59;  Kwan-nou 
temple  of  Asakusa,  64;  a per- 
petual fair,  67;  Fox-temple,  74; 
archery  galleries,  75;  floriculture, 
77;  womankind,  79;  western  in- 
novations, 80;  notes  on,  ii.  171;  its 
monotonous  meanness,  172;  situ- 
ation, 173;  climate,  173, 174;  popu- 
lation, 174;  castle,  175;  ramparts 
and  gates,  175;  official  quarter, 


392 


INDEX. 


TOMAKOMAI. 

176;  the  Yashikis  or  Feudal  man- 
sions, 177-179  ; suburbs,  180  ; the 
Nipponbashi,or  bridge  of  Japan, 
180;  commercial  activity,  181; 
canals,  181 ; temples  and  shrines, 
181;  streets,  182;  signs,  181;  thea- 
tres, 185;  -iiames  of  streets,  185- 
187;  cemeteries,  188;  cremation, 
189;  European  buildings,  189;  An- 
glo-American architecture,  191; 
Imperial  College  of  Engineering, 
192-195;  museums,  195;  telegraph 
building,  196;  foreign  residents, 
197 ; label-forgeries,  199 ; flower 
festas,  200,  201;  floral  curiosities, 
202;  costly  entertainments,  203, 
207;  university,  340. 

Tomakomai,  ii.  42. 

Tone  river,  i.  97. 

Toyoka  village,  i.  344. 

Trade,  foreign,  ii.  380-383. 

Transmigration,  belief  in,  ii.  349. 

Travelling  equipments,  i.  82;  pass- 
ports, 84. 

Tsu,  ii.  291;  two  streets  of  temples, 
292. 

Tsuchiyama,  ii.  294. 

Tsugawa,  i.  191 ; 7jadoya,19i;  town, 
195;  packet-boat,  196. 

Tsuguriko,  i.  353. 

Tsuiji  village,  i.  248. 

Tsukiji,  the,  or  Foreign  Concession, 
i.  33. 

Tsukuno,  i.  268. 

Tsuzuka  pass,  ii.  293. 

Tubine,  i.  348. 

Tufa-cones,  ii.  117. 


U 

Udonosan  snow-fields,  i.  278. 

Uji,  ii.  262;  tea-houses,  262. 
Ujikawa  river,  ii.  262. 

University  of  Tokiyo,  ii.  340. 

Usu,  ii.  133;  temple,  134,  135;  bay, 
136. 

Usu-taki  volcano,  ii.  130. 

Utsu  pass,  i.  259. 


V 

Vegetation,  tropical,  i.  157. 
Village  life,  i.  102. 

Vine,  wild,  ii.  119. 

Vineyards  on  the  Tsugawa,  i.  198. 
Volcano  Bay,  ii.  32. 

Volcanoes,  i.  4. 


YUSSOWA. 


W 

Wakamatsu,  i.  180. 

'SVaterproof  cloak,  a paper,  i.  148. 

Wax,  vegetable,  i.  194. 

Wista7'ia  chinensis,  i.  174,  175. 

Womanldnd,  Japanese,  i.  79. 

Women,  code  of  morals  for,  i.  332 
335. 

Wood-carving  at  Nikko,  i.  120. 

X 

Xavier,  residence  of,  ii.  261. 

y 

Yadate  pass,  i.  366;  the  force  of 
water,  367. 

Yadoya,  or  hotel,  i.  90. 

Yamada,  ii.  276;  Geku  and  Naiku 
shrines,  278,  288. 

Yamagata  ken,  i.  255. 

Yamagata  plain,  i.  274,  278. 

Yamagata  town,  i.  275;  forgeries  of 
European  eatables  and  drinka- 
bles, 276;  public  buildings,  276; 
a filature,  277. 

Yamagawa  river,  ii.  270. 

Yamakushinoi,  ii.  150. 

Yedo  city,  i.  26  (see  Tokiyo). 

Yedo,  gulf  of,  i.  12,  28. 

Yedo  plain,  i.  28. 

Yezo,  ii.  1;  climate,  harbours,  1; 
forests,  mineral  wealth,  2;  Colo- 
nisation Department,  3;  fisher- 
ies, 5;  Hakodate,  5;  police,  7; 
hairy  Ainos,  8,  9;  weak  points  of 
Japanese  Government,  161. 

Yoshitsune,  shrine  of,  ii.  72. 

Yokohama  harbour,  i.  14;  town, 
15;  sampans,  16;  travelling  res- 
taurant, 17;  kurumas  or  jin-ri-ki~ 
shas,  18;  man-carts,  23;  railway 
and  station,  26;  the  Bluff,  47; 
Chinamen,  47. 

Yokokawa,  i.  167. 

Yokote,  i.  295;  Shinto  temple,  295; 
Torii,  295 ; Avorshippers,  296. 

Yonetsurugawa  rh^er,  i.  348;  peril- 
ous transit,  350,  353. 

Yonezawa  plain,  i.  260,  262. 

Yoshida,  i.  267. 

Yubets,  ii.  43;  a ghostly  dwelling, 
44. 

Yumoto  lake,  i.  126;  "vullage,  127; 
bathing,  129. 

Yfi-no-taki  Falls,  the,  i.  129. 

Yurapu,  ii.  150;  river,  150. 

Yussowa,  i.  292;  lunch  in  public. 
293. 


